As a casual rider, I'll just stick with the cheaper mechanical breaks. As long as I can stop I'm good. It's not like I'm some avid professional biker who needs the best of everything. Good video though.
@Zangief ☭ the main advantage of hydraulic brakes is their disability not the braking power. When you are not cutting it close there isn't a meaningful difference. That's why hydraulic brakes shine on wet or lose underground at high speeds. So for a casual biker cable brakes are totally okay. I even didn't miss anything on my old V-brakes while my hydraulics are simply better (and cable disc brakes are way better than V-brakes). The brakes need to match the biking style and cable disc brakes will cut it for 90+% of all bikers.
with the mechanical system you can run a Teflon coated cable and Teflon lined outer. Feel and modulation is much improved. Not as good as hydros but not that far off. Personally I find mechanicals easier to live with. Much easier to pull out an Allen key than mess around with oil, syringes, hoses and cleaning up.
Good to know! I have mechanical disc brake and it feels 'woody' and it is good to know how to improve modulation/feel. I do not live in a very hilly region lucki ly
I have mechanical and while I have blackened my rotors and had the brakes so hot I could smell them, I have not experienced a loss in braking power. Maybe it is because me and my bike together are over 300 pounds, but I can really modulate my braking but I still have enough braking power to send me otb or lock the front wheel at 30mph on pavement (very exciting). This is my experience, that the complication/mess/cost of hydro brakes is not worth it.
late comment, but blackening rotors may actually be a good sign as it may have been the brake pad material depositing on the rotors, which means that the brakes are bedded in and will perform very nicely.
^ I agree plus when you are touring or just casually riding mechanical disc brake cable are easier to replace if you had a bad crash I couldn't say the same thing for hydraulic brakes example you are in a remote area or in other country that doesn't have replacement you will go brake less nobody brings a bleeding kit etc with them when riding so for me mechanical disc brakes are more practical
Thanks. Good input. Now I don't feel so bad that my eMTB came with mechanical. Maybe I would if I did some killer trails but I don't and I don't go fast on trails. Too old for that stuff.
@@Zangief74 maintenance on hydraulic brakes is very simple. but it cant be done mid ride (but it rarely needs to be). if you are touring mechanical might be better
Very informative thank you. I'm stuck deciding between 2 bikes , the pinnacle arkose 2 has hydraulic brakes but tiagra groupset or the gt grade AL 2017 that has shimano 105 groupset but mechanical brakes. Do I go fir better groupset or better brakes ? I watched your review about the tiagra and they seem great. Both bikes are similar weight also. The price of the bikes are very similar and it is a lot of money to me. Could you suggest which you would prefer please ? I should say I'm a beginner recreational rider in Scotland and would be 80% road use and 20% off-road for bikepacking. Nothing serious that I would notice high spec differences. Thanks. I would really appreciate your advice. Love your channel by the way it's my go to for advice. The specs on the arkose seem very impressive for the price but struggling to find reviews strangely.
This is the maybe 15th video i See from you and they helped me a lot. I Would feel Bad when i wouldn't give you a sub. Sry for bad english. Greetz from Germany.
Light to middleweight road riders have little need for discs. If you can lock the front with a rim brake, a stronger brake is of no additional benefit. Hydraulics have in theory almost no internal resistance, so transfer hand pressure via incompressible fluid, while poorly maintained cables have friction, housing flex and compression which can cost inefficiency; mechanical advantage is an entirely different matter, a function of lever pivots, piston size and thread pitch for mechanical. My Avid BB7 front only on MTB is like butter because I cleaned and relubed it, keep the cables clean and drylubed. Hydraulics work great, until suddenly they don't work at all. What could possibly go wrong there? Cars have required double master cylinders separating two lines for safety; only cost, a few extra pounds. Funny, how the emergency brake is always a cable, eh.
Hydraulic brakes are not less reliable at braking. They just may get less firm (air) or be a pain in the neck when you need to replace pads. Cars in 1920 had cable brakes.
how is schwalbe s-one feels? do you mount them as tubeless? thinking to change wearout 28mm conti to smthng tubeless as have grail rims... so far between g-one speed (new name of s-one) 30mm , g-one 35mm, or clement strade ush 32mm (difficult to find in eu stock good price tag)...
I have used both mechanical and hydraulic brakes, both are equal in effectiveness, but... In heat above 28C brake fluid tends to expand and lock brakes during summer days, while mechanical have no issue....
I’ve always had hydraulic brakes and I’ve just bought a bike with mechanical disc brakes they feel awful compared to hydraulic brakes. You can feel the cable scraping through the outer housing when pulling the lever. Also I used to only need one finger for front and back brakes with the hydraulic brakes. With the mechanical disc brakes I have to use all my fingers to apply the brakes and pull harder. I’m upgrading them as soon as possible.
witam 1) a jak wygląda kwestia kosztów eksploatacji jednych i drugich hamulców ?? tzn. koszt wymiany płynu linek itp ? 2) mojej dziewczynie (ona boi się zjazdów) udało się ,,zagotować'' hamulce (jechaliśmy z przełęczy Kowarskiej na Czechy) klocki się nie starły ale w pewnym momencie klamka zapadła się do końca i hamulec przestał działać dopiero po jakimś czasie jak ostygło wszystko to działał nadal poprawnie, więc czy mechaniczne nie są bardziej niezawodne (pancerne)??
I have TRP Spyre mechanicals on my road bike fitted with kevlar brake pads and they provide outstanding performance here in the mountains of western Colorado. I'm all set. Thanks for the video.
Although you don't feel any difference in braking through the lever with mechanical when the rotors and calipers heat up that does not mean there is no difference. It's just the cable does not change characteristics as it heats up like hydraulic fluid does. I also noticed both have a lot of dead lever travel before the brake bites. Not a fan of this at all. Not too much of a problem on the drops but seriously compromises braking on the hoods. And the pad wear is abysmal.
Good video, I am wanting a gravel bike and trying to decide if I want to pay extra and get hydros. I know the answer, but don't want to spend it! I have 3 mountain bikes with hydros and there is no comparison when it comes to stopping. None, nada, zip. I can refresh the oil as fast as someone could swap a cable, too. Its not rocket science guys, cup of oil on the master, syringe at the caliper, suck it out and done. As far as oil on rotors I have learned to take the wheel off and pads out.
I struggle not to drag the brakes on a steep descent. Probably just riding too fast but on a 20 percent grade decent with a bend on the steepest part I was doing about 40mph before I applied brakes, didn’t take long for them to fade. Luckily had shaved off just enough speed for the bend. Rear wheel was on the limit of traction. If it had been wet the front might have locked and I would have been off. I wonder how much difference the ICE technology rotors would have made. Mine are just standard 160mm rotors that look quite cheap.
I ride regularly in the Yorkshire Dales where there are many long, steep descents. I have noticed there is quite a loss in braking power at times whilst riding my bike with hyd brakes, never had the same problem on my mech disc bike, to the point that I prefer using my mech disc bikes on certain rides. Prefer the shorter hoods too.
the lever feels different once you go well below freezing, the brake will feel more sluggish but continue to operate well (mineral oil freezing temp is below -30°C, DOT even lower). DOT may feel better in very low temperatures.
The braking effect of a hydraulic brake can decrease if the brake heats up considerably. Then it can happen that the brake fluid evaporates and air is created in the system. This is known as brake fading. This can be remedied by using a different brake fluid. But let's ask a question: In the meantime, cable-based hydraulic brakes - such as Juintech M1 - are also on the market. What is to be thought of this?
I believe they react the same when overheating. I know someone who also lost their brake while descending on a cable actuated hydraulic brakes. I think it's because the overheating deformed the o ring of the pistons.
But the heavier side of the population are the ones that either don't have a bike or buy one with good intentions, ride once or twice and then put the bike in storage.
Hydro can stand up to 525 degrees celsius thats alot if you ask me... Hydro al the way! I prefer Stopping power over weight actually sometimes you just need that quick stop.
Considered a hydraulic upgrade from mechanical discs, but might save the money instead. Thanks SickBiker. Trial and error can send you broke, learn from the experienced.
I hate the that meny mechanical road disc brakes have very litle spacing between rotors and pads. It takes a lot of time andexpertie to adjust. Any inperfection, that could happen while riding, and out goes performance. This also afects the capacity to adjust levers, unlike other braking systems where you can choose how much you pull on the levers before it starts braking. Does anyone has this problem too?
You raise an interesting point, Shai. I have a Synapse with hydraulic disc brakes and to be honest I don't think hydros fit road bikes as well as they fit MTBs (I have been using hydros on MTBs for years and they work great). Let me explain: There are long climbs/descents here where I live and I've experienced loss of breaking power due to overheat and ultimately glazing the brake pads on long, steep descents (over 3mi). I know that you should not drag hydraulic disc brakes for too long as it will overheat them, but on non-racing conditions (where you share the road with others), you can't just delay your braking and ride aggressively all the time. Eventually you end up having to drag them. One real case: Descending (www.strava.com/segments/2719563) at dusk, I decided to control my descent after spotting a few young deer crossing the road plus incoming commute traffic. The brakes started overheating and by the time I finished the descent the pads had glazed over (loss of stopping power / loud noise). Keep in mind that I am not a heavy rider (130lbs) Shimano replaced my front caliper and gave me ceramic pads under warranty but that did not change much - their Ice-Tech can not dissipate heat fast enough under these conditions (I have no experience with SRAMs). Don't get me wrong, this will only happen on prolonged, steep descents (over 3mi based on my experience). My observation is that on racing conditions the hydraulic brakes will allow you to go downhill faster as you can delay your braking (especially compared to rim brakes on carbon wheels). For recreational, I don't think the hydros are worth the upgrade if you already have a decent rim brake (except if you ride a lot on wet conditions) I would appreciate the feedback from other fellow riders. Cheers.
Good point. Shimano IceTech rotors were made for Mtb's and their slower speed; not for road bikes. Their new dura ace disc brake rotors have channels that force air onto the rotor to cool them faster. Combine that with finned brake pads and a good on/off style braking and you won't overheat your system as fast as the last time.
I own cable brake road bikes.; borrowed a bike with hydro bifters...braking bite/power isn't my issue since, I don't brake hard unless necessary . So my question is: how well do hydraulic brifters handle a bike crash? Because if it breaks beyond repair on a moderate crash, then, it isn't worth for it's price...unless I'm a pro with sponsored equipment 🤣, which I;m not! My old SORA and TIAGRA 4700 had survived multiple mild to moderate to major crashes and still function properly; scratches don't bother me.
Use both before a turn and don't brake mid turn, if you have to, use the rear brake. You will find more grip in your front wheel while breaking, meaning you can put those mechies to good work.
I have hydraulic disc brake on my newer bike. It is Shimano 105 groupset. Downhill is not only think. You want best braking power in city and some traffic situation. Save me few times from bad situation. And that works great. On downhill is feeling of braking much better than rim brake. It is fantastic. There is 2 different types of braking pads. One with metal resin and other that not braking so well. That metal pads destroy disc slightly faster but braking is why I buy it. Not to save money on spare parts. And I don't have funny feeling on 70-80 km/h. But I'm not brake to stop. Just to slowdown little bit. Maybe that feeling was speed wobble. That can happens when you brake to strong or grab handlebar to strong.
The difference in cost is significant that alone makes them incomparable the pluses about cable far out weigh the advantage of hydraulic that is for the average rider
I have the TRP Spyre-C brakes on my road bike, stock rotors and pads. I can't say I'm all that impressed with them. Braking from the hoods is a challenge to get any power, and even from the drops I cannot lock up my front wheel, no matter how hard I pull on the lever. Maybe better pads would help, but for a first experience with disc brakes, on a relatively new bike, I was a bit dissappointed.
Can you skid with the thin tires of a road bike because you have higher stopping power with disk brakes instead of calippers? I think you should check it in low speeds when the wheels lock in sudden stops which happens alot in the city. I love your videos, keep it up😊.
Speaking as hydraulic disc brake user, yes you very well can skid (and you will likely skid a lot when you first use hydraulics) but at the same time you'll find that hydraulic disc brakes give you a lot better control over the amount of braking power. With the amount of control you have, you'll very quickly learn to brake on the edge of it locking up. In those low speed situations (especially in emergencies), it helps even more if you know how to throw your weight around when braking, as you'll be able to take advantage of the greater braking power.
first a quick note: TRP has patent for dual piston cable pull disc brakes, so that extra point is limited to them, you won't find other brand with that plus (they will be replicated as soon as the patent prescribes however xD). Now, I don't have experience with hydros, but for what I have been told, they are indeed vulnerable to over heating because it is the fluid what is affected, that is why investing in hydros with cooling features is a good idea; cables won't boil so they don't suffer with heat. Mantainance wise, hydros may require more work, but they are set and forget, while cables require periodic adjustment. Now my totally unrelated question: any commuter here has tried Alfine crank with Sora cogs combination for a 1x9 set up? I am trying to build a flatbar road bike daily street warrior, and I am looking for cheap options; I am also considering Suntour single chainring instead of Alfine, but I can't find much info about their compatibility.
Standard brake fluid loves water and pulls it out of the air... it's the water in the fluid that, at 100C becomes a gas, bubbles, and interferes with the fluidic density. IF silicon oil is used instead, which isn't hydrophilic, then the issue goes away.
once I was riding offroad on the mud, grass and in the rain for all day and my mechanicals brakes with both wheels just gone. My bike was Focus Mares AX (cyclocross)and tiagra brakes. Other riders felt no difference in their braking power, atleat they had it. So in the middle of mu jorney i had to jump off my bike and adjust
Try out shimano mechanical brakes I use the same and have a good experience even when the disk get hot while going downhill of 5 km Or you can use different materials for your break pads like kevlar or any
heavily depends on the housing, mechanical disc brakes can feel like a sponge with cheap stuff. with good compressionless housing they improve massively ( Jagwire Elite Link , f.e.) - on the other hand that can be so expensive that it would be more wise to just use a hydro system from the get go.
@@Digi20 C'mon that's quite an odd price comparison...a full hydro set (STI, hose and calipers) are easily $400 these days (Shimano 105) , while a mechanical set with compressionless housings would be half that price...I'd rather spend my other $200 for something else worthwhile. Caliper brakes did great for more than 2 decades. It's a matter of "market dictate" by manufacturers that disc brakes on road bikes is a must.
@@pchykins6680 hm here in germany grx400 or 105 hydro sets are like 350€ (levers, hoses, brake saddles), while the 105 mechanical levers are like 175€ + 100€ for a set of BR-RS305 saddles. add the cables and housing and there is only a tiny difference left. for much worse brake power and feel. wouldnt think twice and take the hydros.
@@Digi20 Well that's even odder. 105 mechanical sets here in Asia are cheap, very near the Tiagra R4700 price range. While the full hydros are just crazy specially the GRX series that would easily go as much as $600. At any rate, you're luckier there in terms of price ranges on bike parts then. I wish it were the same here. :(
Hydraulic fluids boil at high temperatures, especially when not changed regularly and moisture gets in. The fluid boils creating gas which unlike liquid is compressible, thus brake fade. I agree, not worth the bother.
It's been a fear that hydro disc breaks could "boil" from the heat on long desents. When the fluid boils it creates an air bubble that prevents the operation of the breaks. I haven't actually seen a case where this happend, but you sound like you might have been getting close!? In my opinion, the hand fatigue from the mechanical breaks is worse than the potential of break boiling as I don't ride the types of mountain desents that could cause a failure. Great video!
It probably auto corrected the first time he typed it, and then continued doing that. There's no need to play grammar or spelling police on a biking thread. However, your own grammar is hardly anything to write home about. :-)
Skragg's Cyclevlog Oil boils at a very high temperature. It would be extremely unlikely for that to happen on the road. It will get hot, but in my experience it has never nor will it never happen.
I find it hard to believe that anyone has problems with brake fluid boiling. More likely they have the wrong pads where the binder resin for the pad material melts slightly.
I have hydraulic system, once when overheated during a steep downhill, rear brake started to leak oil thru the pistons, needless to say that I lost totally brake power on the rear wheel, as pression was lost and oil covered the pads. That´s dangerous. That had me thinking that hydraulic brakes, are more prone to have a catastrophic failture. I don´t think that mechanic system can experience such failture. I´m moving to mechanical. Also, maintenance always is a mess, as you need special tools (aka bleed kit), with mechanical, a couple of tools and you´re done. Hydraulic sounds fancy, but in my experience, it´s a system more prone to fail.
I have Tektro mechanical disk brakes on my gravel bike, and while they are easy to adjust, they have their shortcomings in terms of ultimate stopping power. I'm upgrading the cable housings to non-compression, which by all reports will be a vast improvement.
which is better to stop quickly and slide on the asphalt or to stop more slowly. the strong braking force is for a 4 wheel vehicle, not for point contact bikes...
@@pr0fessoro Yes. With just two wheels, a more controlled stop is better. Hydraulic disk brakes can quickly stop the bike's wheels from turning, but they do nothing to stop the bike and rider's forward motion. Friction between the tires and the road surface do that. When there's a lot of force stopping the wheels and little friction elsewhere, the wheels lock, control is lost, and a crash is inevitable. With rim brakes, the forces involved in slowing are more balanced.
There seems to be two schools of thought with hydro brakes and mechanical. As a heavier rider (245 solid) I've been told hydro are better for heavier riders. However my current bike (That I plan to keep) has mechanical. There are those that advocate for them with the suggestion to use better pads and tighten the distance between the pad and the rotor and I'll have better stopping power. I'm not sold on that entirely, but the upgrade cost for hydro keeps me from dismissing it outright. I do a little hills, but mostly flats so there's that consideration as well. Decisions. Decisions. Decisions. Lol
There is no real advantage to have disc brakes if you run flats. You'd appreciate discs going downhill and having your weight. That's where discs really shine. I personally have a CAAD 12 disc bike and have never felt a problem with overheating the brakes. And I do 65+ km/h downhill runs on my every ride. I would had said go for hydro brakes if you can. But you really do not need hydro nor discs if you spend your time on flats.
Same here. Being 230 pounds and living in the hilly area. Mechanical breaks (I have TRP Spyre) works good on flat, but going down hill is a pain. My hands turn white from breaking. Being considering hydraulic, although the much higher price... But I guess I'll have to byte the bullet.
get new mounts for your callipers and and new bigger discs on my mountain bike I use 200mm disc on the front and 180 mm on the rear , discs and adaptors are pretty cheap these days
If you have a flat mount road bike then the biggest you can go is 160. My mountain bike has 200 on the front and 180 in back with Deore hydros. Never had them over heat. No fins on my pads and the rotors are solid steel.
A brake can only get to block your wheel. If your mechanical ones can achieve this, the hydraulic ones have only the feeling of more comfort as a plus.
langbrn86 Your legs provide peak power(rather, torque) every 180 degrees of the crank's rotation, with torque output lower before and after. An elliptical chainring can allow for an effectively longer powerstroke. Also, chain tension. Theoretically, gear changes... someone way smarter than me could do better, but suffice it to say, it's pretty cool.
I think for daily use or hobby, hydraulic brakes is the best option since its almost maintenance free ( just go to lbs if you need service or something ) but for touring to let say third world countries, mechanical is better option since the cables are vastly available
i have the magura mt2 Amazing brake for the price !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i also have the shimano XT , i find the magura feels better i used the avid bb5 and bb7 mechanical still feels fine i am surprised it took sooooo long for road bikes to go disc
You may also include the fact that most entry level mechanical disc brakes only have single pistons so the brake pads would wear unevenly. I had that system on my old old bike. Now I have 4 piston tektro hydro brakes. I cannot fullt appreciate the braking power of this beast.
The problem when buying a new bike is that the brakes aren't taylered to the weight of the rider I'm 6 ft 5 inch weigh 16 stone on an XL frame yet the same brakes are fitted to a size small frame which would fit a smaller lighter rider I always end up increasing roter size which vastly improves braking
I've used both on two 29er MTBs over a fifteen-year period. There is no comparison. Don't get me wrong, I loved the cable disk brakes over the calliper system. I rode year-round and even through ice and snow they never failed me. But the hydraulic Srams I have on my Trek Excalibur are just unbelievable. Finger braking now (metal pads) and stops on a dime. No heat wear with premium disks. Zero maintenance, even after two years, just like they said. With cables, I was constantly adjusting. My advice is to pay the extra money for hydraulic brakes. You won't be sorry.
Agreed. I've ridden with all manner of brakes over the years and good, well tuned brakes of any variety are generally adequate to safely stop a bike. Hydraulic disc brakes however do the best job and require less maintenance than anything aside from drums. People make a big deal out of bleeding brakes, but 1, you hardly ever have to do it and 2, it's actually an easy 5-10 minute process once you learn how. Personally, I'm still fine with calipers or cantilevers, but disc brakes are a noticeable improvement over either and hydraulic disc brakes are an improvement over mechanical disc brakes.
It heavily depends on the model of breaks you are using. When we went for a trip in the mountains my cousins mechanicals didn't function at all on the second long decent so he had to stop using his feet while mine were performing just fine. So I wouldn't be so general in saying mechanicals are just fine.
I have a pair of BR-315 from Shimano, when I brake for about 30 seconds with much strong, my brakes keep braking very Well, but I feel like there was oil on my brakes, because the pads slips more than the normal.
One thing i have noticed, is that if you only do short stops all the time where the pads dont get a chance to heat up, they will squeak and have less stopping power. I like to find a steep hill every few days where i can let the rotors and pads heat up to burn off the bit of glazing they form from shorter more frequent stopping.
The best decision I ever got with my bike was to get hydraulic disc brakes who cares about more weight its your life on the line expeshly if you live around hills dont get the mechanicals or what I hate most rim brakes
I have the exact same TRPs on my 2017 Roubaix and they s-u--c-k. Comparing to the Promax mechanicals that came on my CAADX, the TRPs are noticeably inferior in stopping power. I have the impression that on the Roubaix I'm using some (very) good rim brakes, while on the CAADX I have a not-so-good hydraulic brake (comparing to the Avids hydro units on my 29er). So for me the upgrade to hydro units on the Roubaix is a must, and the ONLY drawback would be the added weight (100-200 g). And no, heat build up is not an issue, even riding here in 30ºC+ summer temperatures, so even with the added weight the better force modulation and stopping power provided by the hydro units make them a great upgrade. Honestly, I'll first upgrade the brakes and only then would think about getting better and lighter wheels or crankset.
5:45 sure, just getting into biking, but braking physics are all the same In cars, as the rotor heats up, the heat pushes back against the pads, reducing braking power. The better the rotor can cool, the better it performs. Braking is just using friction to convert kinetic energy from a vehicle in motion into heat energy. The faster you can convert that energy and dump the waste heat, the quicker you can stop
A decent well maintained mechanical disk break system is just as good as hydraulic with stopping power and finesse. I'm not siding just saying. So it's about whatever you are happy with as far as maintenance and feel.
This video is a little odd because the dual-piston TRP Spyres are the best mechanical brake design on the market and a very viable alternative to hydraulic brakes. Almost every other mechanical disc brake feels weak and requires constant adjustment to maintain performance and avoid brake rubbing noises.
I work as a mechanic in the LBS, not only do i repair and fix bikes i also try, and sometimes i need to test certain bikes and systems, hydraulic brakes can be more powerful but it's not a thumb rule, for example, take the original regular Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, they are weaker than my Avid mechanical, this i have proven by trying different ones, and swapping one for the other on the exact bike, i actually don't like the hydraulic brakes, we sell allot of e bikes which are heavy by them selves, often allot of hydraulic brakes fail to stop the bike and rider effectively, so a bigger rotor is needed...
For a city commuter bike, is it worth it to have hydraulic just to have a better "brake feel"? I want easy maintenance and low price and I've never used disc brakes so I doubt that I will feel much difference between stopping power.
IMO, as a professional mechanic, for a commuter bike stay away from both discs and suspension. Simplicity is better; easier maintenance, cheaper and lighter as well. If you must have disc brakes, don't get a bike with off-brand mechanical calipers. I hate dealing with crummy discs.
Yes, discs work infinitely better in the wet, and hydraulics require very infrequent maintenance. If you are getting a bike with flat bars, the extra cost is minimal as well.
Hydraulic brakes typically require less maintenance than mechanical brakes because it is a closed system. It's just that when maintenance is required, it's messier and takes more time. I've had mine 3 years and this past week was the first time I had to bleed the system. Not too difficult, just messy.
Not true. I've done 1200km over 3 years on my current bike with hydraulic discs (I've had hydraulic discs for the last 9 years but I've only really tracked the distance I do with my latest bike) and I've done no maintenance at all with them. They're only just getting to a point where they do need maintenance. Mine only really new pads, the oil is fine but I'm going to change it anyway.
it might be harder to maintain hydraulics, but it only needs to be done once in a while. Whereas mechanical disc brakes are a mess from my experience. You have to constantly tune and tweak them, so you get max out your pads. I ride a hilly terrain and had to tweak mechanicals every week, risking total failure otherwise. One good alternative would be hybrids like HyRds, where you have a cable pulling hydraulic lever - quite effective for a reasonable price.
It is pad material and quality of discs. Also size of discs and area of pads, size and number of pistons and pressure produced by master cylinder on pads. Hydraulic disc brakes have much more power than cable brakes. Cable disc brakes are so last century.
@@wangdangdoodie i'm trying to go as fast as possible on my road racer not slow down, even down hill i'm going as fast as possible. Never even considered needing better brakes. But that is just me.
Hydraulics are just pointless. It's overkill as far as braking ability. Most riders won't be able to tell the difference. And they DO get compromised in both heat and cold. Maintenance is annoying. Brake fluid easily contaminates rotors and brake pads. Brake bleeds are expensive if you have a mechanic at a shop do it.
Lief Bamberg coming from a v brake type of bike I can definitely tell the difference. Hydraulics are really good in my opinion they stop right away which is what I need in the city where people get in your way all the time plus it’s been 6 months and my hydraulic brakes are still running great. On the other side my v brakes on my other bike need maintenance every two months which is a pain in the ass really
If you can squeeze the brakes on two bikes' breaks enough that both of them lock up the wheels, then they both have the same braking power. Maybe one takes more force on your hands than the other, but they have the same stopping power. If you have to apply less force, you'll probably have better control, but you don't have a difference in power. As for heat - it's a function of the mass of the pads, the mass of the bike & rider, and the change in speed (and altitude). That's it; that's all. It doesn't matter how the force is applied to the pads, it's just how much energy the brakes dissipate.
Mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes, heat the same. It is beyond controversy (because physics). But mechanical cable not so affected by heat. Heated oil can boil on some degree. When something boils, it expands, and in our case, the brake becomes stiffer. That's the difference.
I'd forever stick to my mech brakes. Cheaper, easier to maintain, lighter, and I'm more confident in descending because I know, I won't lose my brakes. I know so many people lost their hydraulic brakes on high speed descents because of overheating. They say the overheating boils the oil.
oil boils at 300 C, so you really have to be trying to boil it. Also boiling it should push the pistons and lock your brakes, not make you lose them. You lose brakes for the same reasons with hydraulics like you do for mechanical or rim brakes. If you feel a difference in feeling it's just placebo.
its all depent in whats you riding , i mean you cant ride santacruz 10000 $ with 30$ caliper brake it is just a shame. i think hydraulic brakes are the best brake , what is difficult is always better
As a casual rider, I'll just stick with the cheaper mechanical breaks. As long as I can stop I'm good. It's not like I'm some avid professional biker who needs the best of everything. Good video though.
Brake*
But hydraulic is much good , auto ajdust caliper
enjoy having to adjust your cables all the time.
@Zangief ☭ the main advantage of hydraulic brakes is their disability not the braking power. When you are not cutting it close there isn't a meaningful difference. That's why hydraulic brakes shine on wet or lose underground at high speeds. So for a casual biker cable brakes are totally okay. I even didn't miss anything on my old V-brakes while my hydraulics are simply better (and cable disc brakes are way better than V-brakes). The brakes need to match the biking style and cable disc brakes will cut it for 90+% of all bikers.
with the mechanical system you can run a Teflon coated cable and Teflon lined outer. Feel and modulation is much improved. Not as good as hydros but not that far off.
Personally I find mechanicals easier to live with. Much easier to pull out an Allen key than mess around with oil, syringes, hoses and cleaning up.
Good to know! I have mechanical disc brake and it feels 'woody' and it is good to know how to improve modulation/feel. I do not live in a very hilly region lucki
ly
and steel will always stretch. my last set of hydraulics went 5 years without any adjustments. still stopping great.
Regardless of rim or disc, cable or hydraulic, by far the biggest problem is the people that cannot distinguish between brakes and breaks. :P
I don't know what your talking about. There both just fine and they work better then rim breaking to..
trekkeruss Clever. I like that you played around with other commonly bungled words.
🤣
Or there and they're!!
A lot of people on YT have English as a second language however, so I'll give them a brake.
Gramer natsy troling youtub. Whadda maroon.
Great point here. The mechanical are still better for economy, travel, gravel and home mechanics.
Great review, Slick! Comprehensive and informed, dude. Helped me make a decision.
I have mechanical and while I have blackened my rotors and had the brakes so hot I could smell them, I have not experienced a loss in braking power. Maybe it is because me and my bike together are over 300 pounds, but I can really modulate my braking but I still have enough braking power to send me otb or lock the front wheel at 30mph on pavement (very exciting). This is my experience, that the complication/mess/cost of hydro brakes is not worth it.
late comment, but blackening rotors may actually be a good sign as it may have been the brake pad material depositing on the rotors, which means that the brakes are bedded in and will perform very nicely.
^ I agree plus when you are touring or just casually riding mechanical disc brake cable are easier to replace if you had a bad crash I couldn't say the same thing for hydraulic brakes example you are in a remote area or in other country that doesn't have replacement you will go brake less nobody brings a bleeding kit etc with them when riding so for me mechanical disc brakes are more practical
Thanks. Good input. Now I don't feel so bad that my eMTB came with mechanical. Maybe I would if I did some killer trails but I don't and I don't go fast on trails. Too old for that stuff.
Hi , I am an old school cyclist . Prefer mechanical vs hydraulic because the maintenance on mechanics is easier and cheaper.
@@Zangief74 maintenance on hydraulic brakes is very simple. but it cant be done mid ride (but it rarely needs to be). if you are touring mechanical might be better
Very informative thank you. I'm stuck deciding between 2 bikes , the pinnacle arkose 2 has hydraulic brakes but tiagra groupset or the gt grade AL 2017 that has shimano 105 groupset but mechanical brakes. Do I go fir better groupset or better brakes ? I watched your review about the tiagra and they seem great. Both bikes are similar weight also. The price of the bikes are very similar and it is a lot of money to me. Could you suggest which you would prefer please ? I should say I'm a beginner recreational rider in Scotland and would be 80% road use and 20% off-road for bikepacking. Nothing serious that I would notice high spec differences. Thanks. I would really appreciate your advice. Love your channel by the way it's my go to for advice. The specs on the arkose seem very impressive for the price but struggling to find reviews strangely.
Hey Danny. RT76 or RT86? Which is best? I heard complaints about the 86 warping too easy.
I have mechanical callipers on my Rodeo Hannibal.The rear disc brake is'nt working even when I changed the callipers. What should I do?
This is the maybe 15th video i See from you and they helped me a lot. I Would feel Bad when i wouldn't give you a sub. Sry for bad english. Greetz from Germany.
Light to middleweight road riders have little need for discs. If you can lock the front with a rim brake, a stronger brake is of no additional benefit. Hydraulics have in theory almost no internal resistance, so transfer hand pressure via incompressible fluid, while poorly maintained cables have friction, housing flex and compression which can cost inefficiency; mechanical advantage is an entirely different matter, a function of lever pivots, piston size and thread pitch for mechanical. My Avid BB7 front only on MTB is like butter because I cleaned and relubed it, keep the cables clean and drylubed. Hydraulics work great, until suddenly they don't work at all. What could possibly go wrong there? Cars have required double master cylinders separating two lines for safety; only cost, a few extra pounds. Funny, how the emergency brake is always a cable, eh.
😭🤘🏼👏
Hydraulic brakes are not less reliable at braking. They just may get less firm (air) or be a pain in the neck when you need to replace pads. Cars in 1920 had cable brakes.
how is schwalbe s-one feels? do you mount them as tubeless? thinking to change wearout 28mm conti to smthng tubeless as have grail rims... so far between g-one speed (new name of s-one) 30mm , g-one 35mm, or clement strade ush 32mm (difficult to find in eu stock good price tag)...
I agree with most of your points regarding road riding- does hydraulic give any extra advantages in dirty conditions? Off-road, gravel ?
I have used both mechanical and hydraulic brakes, both are equal in effectiveness, but... In heat above 28C brake fluid tends to expand and lock brakes during summer days, while mechanical have no issue....
Lech Orlowski depends on the fluid tho
Yes that’s why cars use mechanical brakes because they can’t operate in summer
I’ve always had hydraulic brakes and I’ve just bought a bike with mechanical disc brakes they feel awful compared to hydraulic brakes. You can feel the cable scraping through the outer housing when pulling the lever. Also I used to only need one finger for front and back brakes with the hydraulic brakes. With the mechanical disc brakes I have to use all my fingers to apply the brakes and pull harder. I’m upgrading them as soon as possible.
Tell me, my summers are in the 40ºC 45ºC range. My gravel hydraulics works flawlessly all year round.
The more I read about hydros, the more reasons I discover as to why they're a bad idea
Thanks for the tips !
thanks for sharing the information !
How hydraulic brake react on very long descnt like Col de La madeleine (i think 20 km).
Will the oil boil and resulting in fatal failure ????
keep up the good videos, what make is the red tire on the back of the canondale
witam
1) a jak wygląda kwestia kosztów eksploatacji jednych i drugich hamulców ?? tzn. koszt wymiany płynu linek itp ?
2) mojej dziewczynie (ona boi się zjazdów) udało się ,,zagotować'' hamulce (jechaliśmy z przełęczy Kowarskiej na Czechy) klocki się nie starły ale w pewnym momencie klamka zapadła się do końca i hamulec przestał działać dopiero po jakimś czasie jak ostygło wszystko to działał nadal poprawnie, więc czy mechaniczne nie są bardziej niezawodne (pancerne)??
I have TRP Spyre mechanicals on my road bike fitted with kevlar brake pads and they provide outstanding performance here in the mountains of western Colorado. I'm all set. Thanks for the video.
are they internally routed ? I was wondering if that may lead to friction points
It was a nice and informatiıve comparison. How do compare rim brakes with cable disc brakes in terms of modulation and power? Thanks..
Although you don't feel any difference in braking through the lever with mechanical when the rotors and calipers heat up that does not mean there is no difference. It's just the cable does not change characteristics as it heats up like hydraulic fluid does. I also noticed both have a lot of dead lever travel before the brake bites. Not a fan of this at all. Not too much of a problem on the drops but seriously compromises braking on the hoods. And the pad wear is abysmal.
Have you used the compressionless housing? Also, some mechanical has heatsink too.
Whats the different's between these and semi hydraulic brakes
Dzien Dobry... many thanks for an excellent comparison video... my sentiments exactly on mechanical. Wow how many bikes do you have?
Good video, I am wanting a gravel bike and trying to decide if I want to pay extra and get hydros. I know the answer, but don't want to spend it! I have 3 mountain bikes with hydros and there is no comparison when it comes to stopping. None, nada, zip. I can refresh the oil as fast as someone could swap a cable, too. Its not rocket science guys, cup of oil on the master, syringe at the caliper, suck it out and done. As far as oil on rotors I have learned to take the wheel off and pads out.
so which do you prefer?
I struggle not to drag the brakes on a steep descent. Probably just riding too fast but on a 20 percent grade decent with a bend on the steepest part I was doing about 40mph before I applied brakes, didn’t take long for them to fade. Luckily had shaved off just enough speed for the bend. Rear wheel was on the limit of traction. If it had been wet the front might have locked and I would have been off.
I wonder how much difference the ICE technology rotors would have made. Mine are just standard 160mm rotors that look quite cheap.
Why is it just staying with you until may?
I ride regularly in the Yorkshire Dales where there are many long, steep descents. I have noticed there is quite a loss in braking power at times whilst riding my bike with hyd brakes, never had the same problem on my mech disc bike, to the point that I prefer using my mech disc bikes on certain rides. Prefer the shorter hoods too.
Hydraulic disc break is much better mechanical disc break?
how if we are using hydraulic brake in the winter situation,? is it posible mineral oil stuck n could be ice?
the lever feels different once you go well below freezing, the brake will feel more sluggish but continue to operate well (mineral oil freezing temp is below -30°C, DOT even lower). DOT may feel better in very low temperatures.
Do they make a four piston caliber that’s mechanical?
How about the hope v twin remote break system no need for the shifter up grade and the best callipers money can get ya
The braking effect of a hydraulic brake can decrease if the brake heats up considerably. Then it can happen that the brake fluid evaporates and air is created in the system. This is known as brake fading. This can be remedied by using a different brake fluid.
But let's ask a question: In the meantime, cable-based hydraulic brakes - such as Juintech M1 - are also on the market. What is to be thought of this?
I believe they react the same when overheating. I know someone who also lost their brake while descending on a cable actuated hydraulic brakes. I think it's because the overheating deformed the o ring of the pistons.
Mechanical disc brakes are really great. I had both but with hydraulic you have more problems and therefore more maintainance.
The real reason brakes are getting more powerful is that the general population is getting fatter.
hey yoooo
lmao
Then why are cars getting better brakes and more power?
Jack White the car is bigger so it needs powerful brakes
But the heavier side of the population are the ones that either don't have a bike or buy one with good intentions, ride once or twice and then put the bike in storage.
Hydro can stand up to 525 degrees celsius thats alot if you ask me... Hydro al the way! I prefer Stopping power over weight actually sometimes you just need that quick stop.
Considered a hydraulic upgrade from mechanical discs, but might save the money instead. Thanks SickBiker. Trial and error can send you broke, learn from the experienced.
I hate the that meny mechanical road disc brakes have very litle spacing between rotors and pads. It takes a lot of time andexpertie to adjust. Any inperfection, that could happen while riding, and out goes performance. This also afects the capacity to adjust levers, unlike other braking systems where you can choose how much you pull on the levers before it starts braking. Does anyone has this problem too?
I hate adjusting those pad on mechanical disc brake lol... It took a lot of time just to adjust those thing...
hi. what is the music used in this video?
My Sram Apex hydro brake hoods are 10cm...
You raise an interesting point, Shai. I have a Synapse with hydraulic disc brakes and to be honest I don't think hydros fit road bikes as well as they fit MTBs (I have been using hydros on MTBs for years and they work great). Let me explain:
There are long climbs/descents here where I live and I've experienced loss of breaking power due to overheat and ultimately glazing the brake pads on long, steep descents (over 3mi).
I know that you should not drag hydraulic disc brakes for too long as it will overheat them, but on non-racing conditions (where you share the road with others), you can't just delay your braking and ride aggressively all the time. Eventually you end up having to drag them.
One real case: Descending (www.strava.com/segments/2719563) at dusk, I decided to control my descent after spotting a few young deer crossing the road plus incoming commute traffic. The brakes started overheating and by the time I finished the descent the pads had glazed over (loss of stopping power / loud noise). Keep in mind that I am not a heavy rider (130lbs)
Shimano replaced my front caliper and gave me ceramic pads under warranty but that did not change much - their Ice-Tech can not dissipate heat fast enough under these conditions (I have no experience with SRAMs).
Don't get me wrong, this will only happen on prolonged, steep descents (over 3mi based on my experience). My observation is that on racing conditions the hydraulic brakes will allow you to go downhill faster as you can delay your braking (especially compared to rim brakes on carbon wheels). For recreational, I don't think the hydros are worth the upgrade if you already have a decent rim brake (except if you ride a lot on wet conditions)
I would appreciate the feedback from other fellow riders.
Cheers.
Good point. Shimano IceTech rotors were made for Mtb's and their slower speed; not for road bikes. Their new dura ace disc brake rotors have channels that force air onto the rotor to cool them faster. Combine that with finned brake pads and a good on/off style braking and you won't overheat your system as fast as the last time.
Cycle (pun intended) between front and back when dragging.
I own cable brake road bikes.; borrowed a bike with hydro bifters...braking bite/power isn't my issue since, I don't brake hard unless necessary . So my question is: how well do hydraulic brifters handle a bike crash? Because if it breaks beyond repair on a moderate crash, then, it isn't worth for it's price...unless I'm a pro with sponsored equipment 🤣, which I;m not!
My old SORA and TIAGRA 4700 had survived multiple mild to moderate to major crashes and still function properly; scratches don't bother me.
I have a question what to stop with...the rear is v-brake and the front is mechanical disc...I ride in the forest most
Use both before a turn and don't brake mid turn, if you have to, use the rear brake. You will find more grip in your front wheel while breaking, meaning you can put those mechies to good work.
that super six! YEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!
Good info on the hood length. Another reason for me to dislike hydraulic brakes.
I have hydraulic disc brake on my newer bike. It is Shimano 105 groupset. Downhill is not only think. You want best braking power in city and some traffic situation. Save me few times from bad situation. And that works great. On downhill is feeling of braking much better than rim brake. It is fantastic.
There is 2 different types of braking pads. One with metal resin and other that not braking so well. That metal pads destroy disc slightly faster but braking is why I buy it. Not to save money on spare parts. And I don't have funny feeling on 70-80 km/h. But I'm not brake to stop. Just to slowdown little bit. Maybe that feeling was speed wobble. That can happens when you brake to strong or grab handlebar to strong.
The difference in cost is significant that alone makes them incomparable the pluses about cable far out weigh the advantage of hydraulic that is for the average rider
I have the TRP Spyre-C brakes on my road bike, stock rotors and pads. I can't say I'm all that impressed with them. Braking from the hoods is a challenge to get any power, and even from the drops I cannot lock up my front wheel, no matter how hard I pull on the lever. Maybe better pads would help, but for a first experience with disc brakes, on a relatively new bike, I was a bit dissappointed.
I'm the same. I've even upgraded to sintered pads and still feel they are crap. Upgrading to hydraulic.
Same. I'm a 100kg ride and ride in trhe mountains. I went to hydraulic and I am not looking back.
Mechanical disc brake stopping power will improve if given a bigger diameter disc. Wonder if there'll be twin discs or twin calipers in the future.
I have mechanical disks and I can't say I noticed problems with overheating with them.
Can you skid with the thin tires of a road bike because you have higher stopping power with disk brakes instead of calippers? I think you should check it in low speeds when the wheels lock in sudden stops which happens alot in the city. I love your videos, keep it up😊.
Speaking as hydraulic disc brake user, yes you very well can skid (and you will likely skid a lot when you first use hydraulics) but at the same time you'll find that hydraulic disc brakes give you a lot better control over the amount of braking power.
With the amount of control you have, you'll very quickly learn to brake on the edge of it locking up.
In those low speed situations (especially in emergencies), it helps even more if you know how to throw your weight around when braking, as you'll be able to take advantage of the greater braking power.
first a quick note: TRP has patent for dual piston cable pull disc brakes, so that extra point is limited to them, you won't find other brand with that plus (they will be replicated as soon as the patent prescribes however xD). Now, I don't have experience with hydros, but for what I have been told, they are indeed vulnerable to over heating because it is the fluid what is affected, that is why investing in hydros with cooling features is a good idea; cables won't boil so they don't suffer with heat. Mantainance wise, hydros may require more work, but they are set and forget, while cables require periodic adjustment. Now my totally unrelated question: any commuter here has tried Alfine crank with Sora cogs combination for a 1x9 set up? I am trying to build a flatbar road bike daily street warrior, and I am looking for cheap options; I am also considering Suntour single chainring instead of Alfine, but I can't find much info about their compatibility.
Standard brake fluid loves water and pulls it out of the air... it's the water in the fluid that, at 100C becomes a gas, bubbles, and interferes with the fluidic density. IF silicon oil is used instead, which isn't hydrophilic, then the issue goes away.
Make a video on trp hy Rd brakes please
once I was riding offroad on the mud, grass and in the rain for all day and my mechanicals brakes with both wheels just gone. My bike was Focus Mares AX (cyclocross)and tiagra brakes. Other riders felt no difference in their braking power, atleat they had it. So in the middle of mu jorney i had to jump off my bike and adjust
Try out shimano mechanical brakes
I use the same and have a good experience even when the disk get hot while going downhill of 5 km
Or you can use different materials for your break pads like kevlar or any
Love how you provide objective reviews. How would the mechanical disc brakes compare to standard caliper brakes (say Ultegra level)?
heavily depends on the housing, mechanical disc brakes can feel like a sponge with cheap stuff. with good compressionless housing they improve massively ( Jagwire Elite Link , f.e.) - on the other hand that can be so expensive that it would be more wise to just use a hydro system from the get go.
@@Digi20 C'mon that's quite an odd price comparison...a full hydro set (STI, hose and calipers) are easily $400 these days (Shimano 105) , while a mechanical set with compressionless housings would be half that price...I'd rather spend my other $200 for something else worthwhile. Caliper brakes did great for more than 2 decades. It's a matter of "market dictate" by manufacturers that disc brakes on road bikes is a must.
@@pchykins6680 hm here in germany grx400 or 105 hydro sets are like 350€ (levers, hoses, brake saddles), while the 105 mechanical levers are like 175€ + 100€ for a set of BR-RS305 saddles. add the cables and housing and there is only a tiny difference left. for much worse brake power and feel. wouldnt think twice and take the hydros.
@@Digi20 Well that's even odder. 105 mechanical sets here in Asia are cheap, very near the Tiagra R4700 price range. While the full hydros are just crazy specially the GRX series that would easily go as much as $600.
At any rate, you're luckier there in terms of price ranges on bike parts then. I wish it were the same here. :(
Hydraulic fluids boil at high temperatures, especially when not changed regularly and moisture gets in. The fluid boils creating gas which unlike liquid is compressible, thus brake fade. I agree, not worth the bother.
It's been a fear that hydro disc breaks could "boil" from the heat on long desents. When the fluid boils it creates an air bubble that prevents the operation of the breaks.
I haven't actually seen a case where this happend, but you sound like you might have been getting close!?
In my opinion, the hand fatigue from the mechanical breaks is worse than the potential of break boiling as I don't ride the types of mountain desents that could cause a failure.
Great video!
my hydro breaks do leak after decents and some oil in exit hole of caliper down the decent
Skragg's Cyclevlog it's spelled "brakes," FFS, guys!!! What the fuck.
It probably auto corrected the first time he typed it, and then continued doing that. There's no need to play grammar or spelling police on a biking thread. However, your own grammar is hardly anything to write home about. :-)
*auto-correct* ;)
Skragg's Cyclevlog Oil boils at a very high temperature. It would be extremely unlikely for that to happen on the road. It will get hot, but in my experience it has never nor will it never happen.
I find it hard to believe that anyone has problems with brake fluid boiling. More likely they have the wrong pads where the binder resin for the pad material melts slightly.
I have hydraulic system, once when overheated during a steep downhill, rear brake started to leak oil thru the pistons, needless to say that I lost totally brake power on the rear wheel, as pression was lost and oil covered the pads. That´s dangerous. That had me thinking that hydraulic brakes, are more prone to have a catastrophic failture. I don´t think that mechanic system can experience such failture. I´m moving to mechanical. Also, maintenance always is a mess, as you need special tools (aka bleed kit), with mechanical, a couple of tools and you´re done. Hydraulic sounds fancy, but in my experience, it´s a system more prone to fail.
use a quality dot 5 braking fluid. and you dont get an issue with boiling. I gues they only use cheap dot 3 or simular
I have Tektro mechanical disk brakes on my gravel bike, and while they are easy to adjust, they have their shortcomings in terms of ultimate stopping power. I'm upgrading the cable housings to non-compression, which by all reports will be a vast improvement.
which is better to stop quickly and slide on the asphalt or to stop more slowly. the strong braking force is for a 4 wheel vehicle, not for point contact bikes...
@@pr0fessoro Yes. With just two wheels, a more controlled stop is better. Hydraulic disk brakes can quickly stop the bike's wheels from turning, but they do nothing to stop the bike and rider's forward motion. Friction between the tires and the road surface do that. When there's a lot of force stopping the wheels and little friction elsewhere, the wheels lock, control is lost, and a crash is inevitable. With rim brakes, the forces involved in slowing are more balanced.
Will you do a video on how to bleed the hydraulic disk brakes ?
GoustiFruit watch gcn or Gmbn for that. They actually know what they are doing unlike this guy.
Nathan A I like GCN but they are so much sponsored that it makes you doubt any review they do.
GoustiFruit φ I never see them do reviews, the just five you an overview of the products and that's it
I love how easy to work with cable disc brakes.
There seems to be two schools of thought with hydro brakes and mechanical. As a heavier rider (245 solid) I've been told hydro are better for heavier riders. However my current bike (That I plan to keep) has mechanical. There are those that advocate for them with the suggestion to use better pads and tighten the distance between the pad and the rotor and I'll have better stopping power. I'm not sold on that entirely, but the upgrade cost for hydro keeps me from dismissing it outright. I do a little hills, but mostly flats so there's that consideration as well. Decisions. Decisions. Decisions. Lol
There is no real advantage to have disc brakes if you run flats. You'd appreciate discs going downhill and having your weight. That's where discs really shine. I personally have a CAAD 12 disc bike and have never felt a problem with overheating the brakes. And I do 65+ km/h downhill runs on my every ride. I would had said go for hydro brakes if you can. But you really do not need hydro nor discs if you spend your time on flats.
Rum2Cajs Thank you for response and the info!!!
Same here. Being 230 pounds and living in the hilly area. Mechanical breaks (I have TRP Spyre) works good on flat, but going down hill is a pain. My hands turn white from breaking.
Being considering hydraulic, although the much higher price... But I guess I'll have to byte the bullet.
get new mounts for your callipers and and new bigger discs on my mountain bike I use 200mm disc on the front and 180 mm on the rear , discs and adaptors are pretty cheap these days
If you have a flat mount road bike then the biggest you can go is 160. My mountain bike has 200 on the front and 180 in back with Deore hydros. Never had them over heat. No fins on my pads and the rotors are solid steel.
A brake can only get to block your wheel. If your mechanical ones can achieve this, the hydraulic ones have only the feeling of more comfort as a plus.
If the brake only has 2 modes, blocked and off, that's bad. The improved comfort and Modulation are rather important in living with the brakes.
@@seven9766 I meant the max a Brake can achieve! Of course you are right with modulation etc.
Can you change hydraulic cables to mechanical?
No. You would need to replace the calipers and levers as well.
Oval chainring? Why do you want that?
langbrn86 Your legs provide peak power(rather, torque) every 180 degrees of the crank's rotation, with torque output lower before and after. An elliptical chainring can allow for an effectively longer powerstroke. Also, chain tension. Theoretically, gear changes... someone way smarter than me could do better, but suffice it to say, it's pretty cool.
I think for daily use or hobby, hydraulic brakes is the best option since its almost maintenance free ( just go to lbs if you need service or something ) but for touring to let say third world countries, mechanical is better option since the cables are vastly available
i have the magura mt2 Amazing brake for the price !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i also have the shimano XT , i find the magura feels better
i used the avid bb5 and bb7 mechanical
still feels fine
i am surprised it took sooooo long for road bikes to go disc
You may also include the fact that most entry level mechanical disc brakes only have single pistons so the brake pads would wear unevenly. I had that system on my old old bike. Now I have 4 piston tektro hydro brakes. I cannot fullt appreciate the braking power of this beast.
The problem when buying a new bike is that the brakes aren't taylered to the weight of the rider
I'm 6 ft 5 inch weigh 16 stone on an XL frame yet the same brakes are fitted to a size small frame which would fit a smaller lighter rider I always end up increasing roter size which vastly improves braking
I've used both on two 29er MTBs over a fifteen-year period. There is no comparison. Don't get me wrong, I loved the cable disk brakes over the calliper system. I rode year-round and even through ice and snow they never failed me. But the hydraulic Srams I have on my Trek Excalibur are just unbelievable. Finger braking now (metal pads) and stops on a dime. No heat wear with premium disks. Zero maintenance, even after two years, just like they said. With cables, I was constantly adjusting. My advice is to pay the extra money for hydraulic brakes. You won't be sorry.
Agreed. I've ridden with all manner of brakes over the years and good, well tuned brakes of any variety are generally adequate to safely stop a bike. Hydraulic disc brakes however do the best job and require less maintenance than anything aside from drums. People make a big deal out of bleeding brakes, but 1, you hardly ever have to do it and 2, it's actually an easy 5-10 minute process once you learn how.
Personally, I'm still fine with calipers or cantilevers, but disc brakes are a noticeable improvement over either and hydraulic disc brakes are an improvement over mechanical disc brakes.
@@GR-cf4qh Yep. And there are all manner brake-bleed videos on TH-cam. That's how I learned it.
It heavily depends on the model of breaks you are using. When we went for a trip in the mountains my cousins mechanicals didn't function at all on the second long decent so he had to stop using his feet while mine were performing just fine. So I wouldn't be so general in saying mechanicals are just fine.
so you're fine generalizing from a single point of anecdotal data. interesting
Maintenance is key
I have a pair of BR-315 from Shimano, when I brake for about 30 seconds with much strong, my brakes keep braking very Well, but I feel like there was oil on my brakes, because the pads slips more than the normal.
theLLfromHELL is there any leak?
Hersa37 nope, nome leaks
One thing i have noticed, is that if you only do short stops all the time where the pads dont get a chance to heat up, they will squeak and have less stopping power. I like to find a steep hill every few days where i can let the rotors and pads heat up to burn off the bit of glazing they form from shorter more frequent stopping.
Not a good comparison. Use same brand and group set only differing typed actuators.
The best decision I ever got with my bike was to get hydraulic disc brakes who cares about more weight its your life on the line expeshly if you live around hills dont get the mechanicals or what I hate most rim brakes
expeshly???? Really? Try especially
I have the exact same TRPs on my 2017 Roubaix and they s-u--c-k. Comparing to the Promax mechanicals that came on my CAADX, the TRPs are noticeably inferior in stopping power. I have the impression that on the Roubaix I'm using some (very) good rim brakes, while on the CAADX I have a not-so-good hydraulic brake (comparing to the Avids hydro units on my 29er). So for me the upgrade to hydro units on the Roubaix is a must, and the ONLY drawback would be the added weight (100-200 g). And no, heat build up is not an issue, even riding here in 30ºC+ summer temperatures, so even with the added weight the better force modulation and stopping power provided by the hydro units make them a great upgrade. Honestly, I'll first upgrade the brakes and only then would think about getting better and lighter wheels or crankset.
5:45 sure, just getting into biking, but braking physics are all the same
In cars, as the rotor heats up, the heat pushes back against the pads, reducing braking power. The better the rotor can cool, the better it performs.
Braking is just using friction to convert kinetic energy from a vehicle in motion into heat energy. The faster you can convert that energy and dump the waste heat, the quicker you can stop
A decent well maintained mechanical disk break system is just as good as hydraulic with stopping power and finesse. I'm not siding just saying. So it's about whatever you are happy with as far as maintenance and feel.
This video is a little odd because the dual-piston TRP Spyres are the best mechanical brake design on the market and a very viable alternative to hydraulic brakes. Almost every other mechanical disc brake feels weak and requires constant adjustment to maintain performance and avoid brake rubbing noises.
Who won?
RIM BRAKEEEEES!
I work as a mechanic in the LBS, not only do i repair and fix bikes i also try, and sometimes i need to test certain bikes and systems, hydraulic brakes can be more powerful but it's not a thumb rule, for example, take the original regular Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, they are weaker than my Avid mechanical, this i have proven by trying different ones, and swapping one for the other on the exact bike, i actually don't like the hydraulic brakes, we sell allot of e bikes which are heavy by them selves, often allot of hydraulic brakes fail to stop the bike and rider effectively, so a bigger rotor is needed...
Thanks. I have an ebike with mechanical and my wife's ebike is hydraulic, so now I don't feel so bad with your input.
For a city commuter bike, is it worth it to have hydraulic just to have a better "brake feel"? I want easy maintenance and low price and I've never used disc brakes so I doubt that I will feel much difference between stopping power.
IMO, as a professional mechanic, for a commuter bike stay away from both discs and suspension. Simplicity is better; easier maintenance, cheaper and lighter as well. If you must have disc brakes, don't get a bike with off-brand mechanical calipers. I hate dealing with crummy discs.
Yes, discs work infinitely better in the wet, and hydraulics require very infrequent maintenance. If you are getting a bike with flat bars, the extra cost is minimal as well.
Hydraulic disk breaks are more work to upkeep but are more than worth it. Once you've tried hydraulic you won't go back.
I have had my shimano m615 for 2 years and I have never bled mine,metal pads wear slowly.
Hydraulic brakes typically require less maintenance than mechanical brakes because it is a closed system. It's just that when maintenance is required, it's messier and takes more time. I've had mine 3 years and this past week was the first time I had to bleed the system. Not too difficult, just messy.
Not true. I've done 1200km over 3 years on my current bike with hydraulic discs (I've had hydraulic discs for the last 9 years but I've only really tracked the distance I do with my latest bike) and I've done no maintenance at all with them. They're only just getting to a point where they do need maintenance. Mine only really new pads, the oil is fine but I'm going to change it anyway.
it might be harder to maintain hydraulics, but it only needs to be done once in a while. Whereas mechanical disc brakes are a mess from my experience. You have to constantly tune and tweak them, so you get max out your pads. I ride a hilly terrain and had to tweak mechanicals every week, risking total failure otherwise. One good alternative would be hybrids like HyRds, where you have a cable pulling hydraulic lever - quite effective for a reasonable price.
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It is pad material and quality of discs. Also size of discs and area of pads, size and number of pistons and pressure produced by master cylinder on pads. Hydraulic disc brakes have much more power than cable brakes. Cable disc brakes are so last century.
I'll just stick with rim brakes, less weight, less fuss, less wind drag, less pointless expense and far better looking on a sleek road racer.
...and less braking power too!
@@wangdangdoodie i'm trying to go as fast as possible on my road racer not slow down, even down hill i'm going as fast as possible. Never even considered needing better brakes. But that is just me.
A lot of new bikes don't have rim brakes. You get what you're given unless you buy some kind of custom build.
Thanks really helpful review.
Hydraulics are just pointless. It's overkill as far as braking ability. Most riders won't be able to tell the difference. And they DO get compromised in both heat and cold. Maintenance is annoying. Brake fluid easily contaminates rotors and brake pads. Brake bleeds are expensive if you have a mechanic at a shop do it.
Lief Bamberg coming from a v brake type of bike I can definitely tell the difference. Hydraulics are really good in my opinion they stop right away which is what I need in the city where people get in your way all the time plus it’s been 6 months and my hydraulic brakes are still running great. On the other side my v brakes on my other bike need maintenance every two months which is a pain in the ass really
what i would like from mechs is more spacing between the pads and the disc.
If you can squeeze the brakes on two bikes' breaks enough that both of them lock up the wheels, then they both have the same braking power. Maybe one takes more force on your hands than the other, but they have the same stopping power. If you have to apply less force, you'll probably have better control, but you don't have a difference in power. As for heat - it's a function of the mass of the pads, the mass of the bike & rider, and the change in speed (and altitude). That's it; that's all. It doesn't matter how the force is applied to the pads, it's just how much energy the brakes dissipate.
If that were true, why do all the worlds best DH riders use hydraulic not cable actuated brakes?
Mechanical or hydraulic disc brakes, heat the same. It is beyond controversy (because physics). But mechanical cable not so affected by heat. Heated oil can boil on some degree. When something boils, it expands, and in our case, the brake becomes stiffer. That's the difference.
Vee brakes are good enough for me. Cheap, reliable and easy maintenance.
The bike I want (because of other features) just happens to have hydraulic brakes. I would be happy with mechanical but there is no option.
I'd forever stick to my mech brakes. Cheaper, easier to maintain, lighter, and I'm more confident in descending because I know, I won't lose my brakes.
I know so many people lost their hydraulic brakes on high speed descents because of overheating.
They say the overheating boils the oil.
oil boils at 300 C, so you really have to be trying to boil it. Also boiling it should push the pistons and lock your brakes, not make you lose them. You lose brakes for the same reasons with hydraulics like you do for mechanical or rim brakes. If you feel a difference in feeling it's just placebo.
For many hours use break and comfort and better stop hydraulic is better
its all depent in whats you riding , i mean you cant ride santacruz 10000 $ with 30$ caliper brake it is just a shame. i think hydraulic brakes are the best brake , what is difficult is always better
Once you try hydraulic brakes, you Wont go back to mechanical breaks. The better performance is worthThe maintenence