When i first started reloading I reaffirmed my data at least 10 times. I read as much as i could. People don't want to invest their time..exactly like you said.
I have been reloading for several decades and I still prefer my simple process which includes repetition of quality control checks. Despite owning a Dillon 1050 and all the conversions for the calibers I own I prefer to use my Lee hand press for most of my reloading. Because I check and recheck everything every step from start to finish. As I fill ammo cans with verified loads I know those are spot on and consistent because I have check every single round.
And speaking of a cluttered work area. My garage was my work area and it got quite cluttered up. So, I took everything out of the garage and put it all back all completely organized. At the end of the task, I found that I had only a half of a paper grocery bag of trash to toss out from an entire two car garage's worth of space. Naturally there were plenty of items that I did not need at the time, but I might need later, that I kept. My wife was not able to understand this practice and expected one heck of a lot more to be tossed out. She surmised that I spent an entire day doing little or nothing. I told her that as long as she stays out of the garage, I'll know where every little thing is. Just ask if you need something. A man and a dog just have to have a space they can call their own.
I literally read thru Hornaday's and Lymans complete reloading manuals before I started reloading anything. People nowadays do not want to take the time.
hornady, lyman and Nosler all have conflicting data so it can be pretty annoying trying to find a decent load or one that you might be looking for with consistent data.
Probably filled his case with pistol powder Incomprensible how people dont make double sure they are using the right powder, it's like ammo, just because it looks similar doesnt mean it will fire in your rifle, I've heard of that happening too. Great advise Mike for I am sure many new reloaders are out there, take your time and be sure of your components.
Amen. And don't think the scoop that comes with the die is for any powder you choose. Amazes me how many people don't do their homework before reloading
Well, lets face it. Reloading is not for everyone! I worked with a guy that I didn't even know was a sport shooter. Untill one Monday morning he arrived for work with his face beat up like a bomb had gone off! His nearly new .308 rifle BLEW UP in his hands! When I asked further questions, he said he was trying out some hand loads. So, I asked; were you seeing any signs of high or excessive pressure? He looked at me with a blank expression and said; "Signs? Like what signs?' Yeah! I just about flipped! This guy very obvious should have never been near the loading bench!!!!!
Great video with very timely advice as so many new people are turning to reloading as a way to reduce the ridiculous cost of ammunition at the present time. Thanks Koba!
Great video. I've reloaded a boat load pf cartridges both common and obselete over the years. I spent a lot lf time reading and studying before i ever loaded a round. To this day I double check everything when I load.
Reloading is like riding a motorcycle - if you can't be totally focused on what you are doing - don't get on the bike. When I reload, I don't even play music. I use two different scales to verify powder charges. And you never have more than one powder on the bench. The bench is clear except for the specific materials you will be using for that session. In other words, if you're not in the mood to do it...just don't. I've known people who have lost fingers because they either weren't paying attention or they thought they knew better than the reloading manuals because of their "personal experience." And do yourself a favor - don't reload for your friends...we've all done it or been tempted to. In hindsight - It's better not to.
you are so right . seems like anymore people want someone to do all the work for them . like asking for reloading channels to test a bullet and powder for max load and accuracy . like they are to cheap and lazy to do the work up themselves . not all are like that , but most are . the one that gets me is talk about safety and some troll posts , ' i do that all the time and never had any thing happen ! ' then someone agrees with them and safety is gone . negative comments seem to get more people agreeing with them just so the think they know something ! like one guy who has over 50000 subs on here . i wouldn't stay on a range that he is on ! or even tuch his reloads ! i took all my reloading videos down . or should say took down what was left after youtube deleted most of them . i did one on what a old guy told me at the range . and got over 100 replies that it was safe and they do it all the time . guy asked me if i was going to keep my 5.56 cases that were on the ground ? i told him , ' no . the primer pockets are shot got 11 reloads on them and they are lose . ' he then told me he , ' takes a sinclar large primer pocket reamer and turns small pockets in to large and loads with large rifle primers ! ' i told my viewers ' don't do this as it is not safe ! you will weaken the case head and if you load your normal max charge it just might blow up on you ! and once the first guy said , ' i do that all the time with no trouble !' every other post said it was safe to do ! that was the end of me doing any more videos ! i tested the ' conversion ' on 4 pcs of lc 02 cases . and from a starting load up to 1 gr over starting i had cases splitting at the casehead ! and never tested it again ! only tested it to do a video on the danger of it ! but never uploaded the video and ended my channel ! only got my first 2 videos posted and they are more showing my work on my dream reloading room . keep up the good work !
Sound advice Koda49. Back in the day I only reloaded for my M1 Garand. I developed loads with advice from many and redundant study about the PROPER powder. Pure idiocy to buy a powder without confirming burn rate, the proper number, everything over and over again before using or buying.
Those two bottles look the same color to me but then again I'm apparently color blind. That's why I ALWAYS read the labels, double check, and double check again. The same with measuring, double and triple check if you're testing loads. DON'T use a powder measure to test loads. Use it when you KNOW and have proven your loads AND proven your powder measure with those loads. P.S. I don't trust powder measures even though the one I own has been tried and tested and showed itself trustworthy. I still don't trust it. I like to scale everything.
Neat & tidy is a necessity. But I also tend to have very few powders on hand. IMR 4064, 4198 & 3031. H110 & Unique. I can tell which one is which just by looking at them.
As far as putting a scope on an old Mauser goes. Depends on the rifle, my m48a Mauser shoots .5 moa, it was tapped correctly by spot welding to soften the tap points. It can handle a hell of a lot more pressure than a sporting rifle off the shelf.
I see this in reloading groups FAR too often. Usually younger folk (i'm in my 50's and loaded since i was 21) They want info...NOW! "How do I do X"? What load is best for X bullet? What load (quantity) do i use for X? Some of us more crusty types? READ THE DAMN MANUAL! oHHHH, then the backlash from the candy asses (not all young!) on how mean we are. Tuning is one thing. Details? Thats fine also. Hell, sometimes we even share our pet loads. In 556 AR's, the loads are nearly universal for any rifle (nearly). 25gr of H335 for a 55gr fmj. Pretty standard. These younger folk do not want to put the time in we did with OUR "Elmers". My Elmer made me read the front of my manual 2x before he would teach me anything. Why? SAFETY. I"m to the point now I say let Darwin deal with it lol.
Another problem is trying to get the maximum velocity by using the maximum load of powder. Accidentally using a faster burning powder in loads meant for a slower burning powder will cause increased pressure. It might be a minor issue with using 4895 with loads meant for 4064, but not using 3031 with loads meant for 4831. Some people are partially or fully color blind as well. I load my hand loads very conservatively. It reduces wear and tear on the weapon and most often, improves accuracy. For maximum loads, say for hunting, I will use a known good factory load.
You bring up a good point here and another reason for always starting at the bottom(start grains) and work up. While it won't correct the mistake of mixing powders up the reaction will hopefully be mitigated some if an incorrect selection is made in error.
Reloading is for anal retentive and people with OCD. Everyone else is playing Russian roulette. That's my take away after decades of reloading. That said, I have introduced several people to reloading and subjected them to my anal retentive OCD methods hoping it rubs off onto them.
I've seen people post load data for powders that no powder or bullet company recommends! Maybe they worked up a load properly for a specific action they own, but it certainly looked way too hot for the average guy to attempt.
Sporterizing a milsurp is a sin! I never had and never will. I did (once) took a spoerterized 1903a3 and turned it back to milspec. It came out awesome! Would I do it again? Probably not - it was a lot of work (not to mention a lot of time).
I would by a manual and follow that. My Mauser 7.65 x53 eats reloads loaded by 303 British measurements b cuz that’s what I found b 4 the actual data but I got actual data now
It may sound silly, but to this day I like to stick to Alliant powders, largely because of the names. I can't remember "n140" but I can remember "Varget". (2400 is easy to remember when few of the other alliant powders have numbers). When Im looking at tons of numbers on a paper, I really dont need another one to cause these types of mishaps. Yes yes, check it once, check it twice, but sometimes when you get in a mindset its easy to blank out. I know that giving powder names is somewhat of a PR stunt, but, it works for me. Im a big fan of 8208 XBR, but i cant remember those first four digits- but gold can and XBR? I can do that. Yes always check your work, but some intentional mnemonic devices DO help.
I had a boo-boo 2 weeks ago . Methinks I double charged a reload .357 ? Fired 66 shots and # 67 went BOOM . No physical damage , just $ 1,100.00 financially .It was a S & W 686.
Buy all the crap as money allows, press, dies for the caliber(Lee is cheapest), you don't need a powder measure but it helps, you can buy lees powder dipper set thingy, and a scale, PPU brass is the common mans shit, ammo or brass or bullets. Read all the reloading data you can find, Lee dies come with data, at least they did for 8x56r. Dig through old forums too, buy books or find them online. I literally just started today, finished 15 rnds of 8x56r going from 43 grains of imr-3031 to 45 with ppu's 208 grain bullet. You have to clean old brass too, most people buy a tumbler but i just washed out an old milk jug and did it by hand with hot water and dish soap and let dry overnight. and don't forget case lube, imperial sizing wax. You can get old used presses on ebay, just google what it is first so you don't get something weird, or if you want new lee has a decent one for 70ish bucks. Once you get everything just keep reading and watching reloading videos until you grasp the basics, that's what i did anyways. Johnny's reloading bench here on yt is pretty in depth.
Research, buy a lee classic turret press, a lyman reloading manual, and always ask or look it up if you're ever unsure of something BEFORE you attempt it.
Yeah, I did have a Glock blow up on me .40cal... However, it was not a competence problem it was an organization problem... Needless to say, I have become way more organized...
I wasn't there.....but...I've been there... so to speak. Unless there was some underlying fatigue in the gun or a weak cartridge case head.....hear what I'm saying....the mistaken substitution of IMR3031 for IMR4831 wouldn't have resulted in catastrophic failure. Oh....the operators attention would have alerted in high fashion alright....but UNLESS there was preexisting/underlying fatigue damage to the action...that substitution would not have resulted in a grenade experience. I've performed more than a few 'overcharge to failure' experiments under controlled circumstances. I will never reveal my findings because of the idiots in the audience. However, certain thresholds have to be exceeded to cause catastrophic failure...often in concert with other factors, known or unknown...usually, the latter. Its an undisputed fact that violating standard practice and safety precautions are recipes for disaster. The gist of what I am trying to convey is that SOMETHING else was involved in the complete action failure of the rifle mentioned. There's a long list and it's now a moot point, because without all the evidence, it becomes a cold case file. By and large it must be noted that Mauser actions are case (surface) hardened which leave an elastic inner core. This allows the action to stretch before shattering....like the early 1903 Springfield's were known for. If said Mauser action was improperly treated it's possible, but still unlikely to grenade because of the low/medium carbon alloy utilized. A very quick burning propellant can generate excessive pressure waves faster than the steel can yield/stretch....but not the ones mentioned in the video. I think the shooter didn't tell the whole story....and probably just as well.
Blow up a Mauser? Only if you removed surface hardening or receiver was cracked. To cause catastrophic failure of even a soft Spanish Small Ring Mauser, there has to be preexisting damage, cracks or weakening of case hardening by removing of surface metal or extensive warpage/pitting and metal fatigue or you loaded a round with pistol powder in excess of 200000 PSI. If you blew up a Mauser, catastrophic failure, you wouldn't be making TH-cam videos, because you wouldn't be alive after a grenade exploded near your head. What a Mauser will do is lock you out. But prior to that you'll have increasingly hard extraction from unsafe bolt lug setback causing increasing headspace. When that happens eventually you won't be able to open the breach. All of these factors are READILY OBSERVABLE, even the micro cracks will tend to show lines on the surface of the receiver before they go critical. So, honestly, I'll call BS. Yes, it's cheaper to buy a new rifle. No people shouldn't bubba surplus guns which haven't been bubba'd Yes, guns which have been bubba'd should be either remilled OR brought into a decent looking sporter/tactical configuration. No, fair-poor cosmetic condition rifles are not necessarily valuable as collector pieces, but those are the exception of whether one restores or customizes. Every weapon should be thoroughly examined for metal fatigue and warpage and cracks, etc. If any weapon swallows a Field headspace gauge it's not safe to shoot. If any weapon swallows a NoGo gauge it needs to be taken to a gunsmith/armorer. The only way any of what you've said about a Mauser is possible is if you hotrodded a Chiang Kai Shek or Pakistani Mauser with poor heat treatment or you somehow got your hands on a NAZI last ditch Mauser or a Mauser late war manufactured by forced labor which was intentionally weakened - most of those are long gone. Or you could have gotten a Mauser action that was damaged in a fire whose metallurgy was compromised. Some Brazilian guns were reheat treated brittle like low number Springfields. Brazilian reject heat treats are still floating around in .30-06. Most of the forced labor sabotaged NAZI Mausers were destroyed by the early 1960s. And last ditch NAZI guns are collectors items today when you find them, but they were seldom picked up by GIs because they were slapped together so crudely and machined poorly - you'll know if you have a last ditch NAZI gun.
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When i first started reloading I reaffirmed my data at least 10 times. I read as much as i could. People don't want to invest their time..exactly like you said.
I have been reloading for several decades and I still prefer my simple process which includes repetition of quality control checks. Despite owning a Dillon 1050 and all the conversions for the calibers I own I prefer to use my Lee hand press for most of my reloading. Because I check and recheck everything every step from start to finish. As I fill ammo cans with verified loads I know those are spot on and consistent because I have check every single round.
Why buy a progressive if you don’t trust it?
And speaking of a cluttered work area. My garage was my work area and it got quite cluttered up. So, I took everything out of the garage and put it all back all completely organized. At the end of the task, I found that I had only a half of a paper grocery bag of trash to toss out from an entire two car garage's worth of space. Naturally there were plenty of items that I did not need at the time, but I might need later, that I kept. My wife was not able to understand this practice and expected one heck of a lot more to be tossed out. She surmised that I spent an entire day doing little or nothing. I told her that as long as she stays out of the garage, I'll know where every little thing is. Just ask if you need something. A man and a dog just have to have a space they can call their own.
First step before any reloading process is to keep your reloading room tidy and organized so it doesn't look like the one in the background
Some people can function in chaos, I'm like you, I can't start a project unless there's order.
I literally read thru Hornaday's and Lymans complete reloading manuals before I started reloading anything. People nowadays do not want to take the time.
hornady, lyman and Nosler all have conflicting data so it can be pretty annoying trying to find a decent load or one that you might be looking for with consistent data.
Good video and information. Only one powder on the bench at the time. And clean up everything before swapping powder. Thanks for sharing
Don't drink and reload.
Dont smoke and reload
@@blueduck9409
That's the one we want to watch out for!
Great video! When reloading, NEVER be in a hurry. Check and double check and check again!!
Probably filled his case with pistol powder Incomprensible how people dont make double sure they are using the right powder, it's like ammo, just because it looks similar doesnt mean it will fire in your rifle, I've heard of that happening too. Great advise Mike for I am sure many new reloaders are out there, take your time and be sure of your components.
Amen. And don't think the scoop that comes with the die is for any powder you choose. Amazes me how many people don't do their homework before reloading
Well, lets face it. Reloading is not for everyone! I worked with a guy that I didn't even know was a sport shooter. Untill one Monday morning he arrived for work with his face beat up like a bomb had gone off!
His nearly new .308 rifle BLEW UP in his hands!
When I asked further questions, he said he was trying out some hand loads.
So, I asked; were you seeing any signs of high or excessive pressure?
He looked at me with a blank expression and said; "Signs? Like what signs?'
Yeah! I just about flipped!
This guy very obvious should have never been near the loading bench!!!!!
Great video with very timely advice as so many new people are turning to reloading as a way to reduce the ridiculous cost of ammunition at the present time. Thanks Koba!
Yep agree 1000%! Can't take the time to verify correct power- he earned the award! Lucky he didn't earn the Darwin award!
Great video.
I've reloaded a boat load pf cartridges both common and obselete over the years.
I spent a lot lf time reading and studying before i ever loaded a round.
To this day I double check everything when I load.
They should make pistole powder with a big round circle showing a rifle and a slash through the middle.
Reloading is like riding a motorcycle - if you can't be totally focused on what you are doing - don't get on the bike. When I reload, I don't even play music. I use two different scales to verify powder charges. And you never have more than one powder on the bench. The bench is clear except for the specific materials you will be using for that session. In other words, if you're not in the mood to do it...just don't. I've known people who have lost fingers because they either weren't paying attention or they thought they knew better than the reloading manuals because of their "personal experience." And do yourself a favor - don't reload for your friends...we've all done it or been tempted to. In hindsight - It's better not to.
you are so right . seems like anymore people want someone to do all the work for them . like asking for reloading channels to test a bullet and powder for max load and accuracy . like they are to cheap and lazy to do the work up themselves . not all are like that , but most are . the one that gets me is talk about safety and some troll posts , ' i do that all the time and never had any thing happen ! ' then someone agrees with them and safety is gone . negative comments seem to get more people agreeing with them just so the think they know something ! like one guy who has over 50000 subs on here . i wouldn't stay on a range that he is on ! or even tuch his reloads ! i took all my reloading videos down . or should say took down what was left after youtube deleted most of them . i did one on what a old guy told me at the range . and got over 100 replies that it was safe and they do it all the time . guy asked me if i was going to keep my 5.56 cases that were on the ground ? i told him , ' no . the primer pockets are shot got 11 reloads on them and they are lose . ' he then told me he , ' takes a sinclar large primer pocket reamer and turns small pockets in to large and loads with large rifle primers ! ' i told my viewers ' don't do this as it is not safe ! you will weaken the case head and if you load your normal max charge it just might blow up on you ! and once the first guy said , ' i do that all the time with no trouble !' every other post said it was safe to do ! that was the end of me doing any more videos ! i tested the ' conversion ' on 4 pcs of lc 02 cases . and from a starting load up to 1 gr over starting i had cases splitting at the casehead ! and never tested it again ! only tested it to do a video on the danger of it ! but never uploaded the video and ended my channel ! only got my first 2 videos posted and they are more showing my work on my dream reloading room . keep up the good work !
Sound advice Koda49. Back in the day I only reloaded for my M1 Garand. I developed loads with advice from many and redundant study about the PROPER powder. Pure idiocy to buy a powder without confirming burn rate, the proper number, everything over and over again before using or buying.
If you don't have the time, then don't reload. It is not something I want to hurry up to do.
Those two bottles look the same color to me but then again I'm apparently color blind. That's why I ALWAYS read the labels, double check, and double check again. The same with measuring, double and triple check if you're testing loads. DON'T use a powder measure to test loads. Use it when you KNOW and have proven your loads AND proven your powder measure with those loads.
P.S. I don't trust powder measures even though the one I own has been tried and tested and showed itself trustworthy. I still don't trust it. I like to scale everything.
Neat & tidy is a necessity. But I also tend to have very few powders on hand. IMR 4064, 4198 & 3031. H110 & Unique. I can tell which one is which just by looking at them.
As far as putting a scope on an old Mauser goes. Depends on the rifle, my m48a Mauser shoots .5 moa, it was tapped correctly by spot welding to soften the tap points. It can handle a hell of a lot more pressure than a sporting rifle off the shelf.
The first thing I tell anyone I am teaching to reload is, buy a reloading manual, read it and then read it again.
I see this in reloading groups FAR too often.
Usually younger folk (i'm in my 50's and loaded since i was 21)
They want info...NOW!
"How do I do X"? What load is best for X bullet? What load (quantity) do i use for X?
Some of us more crusty types?
READ THE DAMN MANUAL!
oHHHH, then the backlash from the candy asses (not all young!) on how mean we are.
Tuning is one thing. Details? Thats fine also. Hell, sometimes we even share our pet loads.
In 556 AR's, the loads are nearly universal for any rifle (nearly).
25gr of H335 for a 55gr fmj. Pretty standard.
These younger folk do not want to put the time in we did with OUR "Elmers".
My Elmer made me read the front of my manual 2x before he would teach me anything.
Why? SAFETY.
I"m to the point now I say let Darwin deal with it lol.
Another problem is trying to get the maximum velocity by using the maximum load of powder. Accidentally using a faster burning powder in loads meant for a slower burning powder will cause increased pressure. It might be a minor issue with using 4895 with loads meant for 4064, but not using 3031 with loads meant for 4831. Some people are partially or fully color blind as well.
I load my hand loads very conservatively. It reduces wear and tear on the weapon and most often, improves accuracy. For maximum loads, say for hunting, I will use a known good factory load.
You bring up a good point here and another reason for always starting at the bottom(start grains) and work up. While it won't correct the mistake of mixing powders up the reaction will hopefully be mitigated some if an incorrect selection is made in error.
Reloading is fun as heck BUT you must not be hasty you must be calm and collected and pay attention
no kids , no phones
@@Russianpaintrain No beer, no pot, no cigs.
Reloading is for anal retentive and people with OCD. Everyone else is playing Russian roulette. That's my take away after decades of reloading. That said, I have introduced several people to reloading and subjected them to my anal retentive OCD methods hoping it rubs off onto them.
I've seen people post load data for powders that no powder or bullet company recommends! Maybe they worked up a load properly for a specific action they own, but it certainly looked way too hot for the average guy to attempt.
Sporterizing a milsurp is a sin! I never had and never will. I did (once) took a spoerterized 1903a3 and turned it back to milspec. It came out awesome! Would I do it again? Probably not - it was a lot of work (not to mention a lot of time).
I would by a manual and follow that. My Mauser 7.65 x53 eats reloads loaded by 303 British measurements b cuz that’s what I found b 4 the actual data but I got actual data now
It may sound silly, but to this day I like to stick to Alliant powders, largely because of the names. I can't remember "n140" but I can remember "Varget". (2400 is easy to remember when few of the other alliant powders have numbers). When Im looking at tons of numbers on a paper, I really dont need another one to cause these types of mishaps. Yes yes, check it once, check it twice, but sometimes when you get in a mindset its easy to blank out. I know that giving powder names is somewhat of a PR stunt, but, it works for me. Im a big fan of 8208 XBR, but i cant remember those first four digits- but gold can and XBR? I can do that. Yes always check your work, but some intentional mnemonic devices DO help.
I agree , you have to pat attention .
Some people should probably not reload. There, I said it.
I had a boo-boo 2 weeks ago . Methinks I double charged a reload .357 ? Fired 66 shots and # 67 went BOOM . No physical damage , just $ 1,100.00 financially .It was a S & W 686.
Very well said!!!
That's why I'm looking to only use 3-4 powders for my rifles
helo how much does it cost to reload military 7mm mauser ammo with fmj bullets per 20 rds
Keep up the good work
Bench needs a little clean up...just sayin.... very informative video...make sure of what you are loading.
I used 4895 powder. What did you use?
RELOADING ..I find it fascinating, how can I ease into it.?
With a cap and ball revolver
Buy all the crap as money allows, press, dies for the caliber(Lee is cheapest), you don't need a powder measure but it helps, you can buy lees powder dipper set thingy, and a scale, PPU brass is the common mans shit, ammo or brass or bullets. Read all the reloading data you can find, Lee dies come with data, at least they did for 8x56r. Dig through old forums too, buy books or find them online. I literally just started today, finished 15 rnds of 8x56r going from 43 grains of imr-3031 to 45 with ppu's 208 grain bullet. You have to clean old brass too, most people buy a tumbler but i just washed out an old milk jug and did it by hand with hot water and dish soap and let dry overnight. and don't forget case lube, imperial sizing wax. You can get old used presses on ebay, just google what it is first so you don't get something weird, or if you want new lee has a decent one for 70ish bucks. Once you get everything just keep reading and watching reloading videos until you grasp the basics, that's what i did anyways. Johnny's reloading bench here on yt is pretty in depth.
@@Drexus76 Thanks friend
Research, buy a lee classic turret press, a lyman reloading manual, and always ask or look it up if you're ever unsure of something BEFORE you attempt it.
@@Drexus76 It has been found that dirty tarnished brass shoots just as well as shiny brass.
I bet when a breech let's go in theyr face they'll look next time if there IS a next time
100% right on the money, good show.
He paid for his mistake with the loss of his rifle. He's lucky he didn't lose an eye or worse. It would be great if he learns from this.
First rule know your powder else do not reload. You must know how and pay real attention to details. Otherwise get factory ammo.
Well noted!
I always wright the number on top of can or cap.
what happned you made a loading mistake
Yeah, I did have a Glock blow up on me .40cal... However, it was not a competence problem it was an organization problem... Needless to say, I have become way more organized...
Sound advice !...Subbed
Measure twice,cut once
And it was still to short.
I hope you don't use any of the three presses I see in the background. If you do I hope you clean up your bench before you do.
Need to update to modern magazine,bolt barrel.for higher plus p loads.
I wasn't there.....but...I've been there... so to speak.
Unless there was some underlying fatigue in the gun or a weak cartridge case head.....hear what I'm saying....the mistaken substitution of IMR3031 for IMR4831 wouldn't have resulted in catastrophic failure. Oh....the operators attention would have alerted in high fashion alright....but UNLESS there was preexisting/underlying fatigue damage to the action...that substitution would not have resulted in a grenade experience.
I've performed more than a few 'overcharge to failure' experiments under controlled circumstances. I will never reveal my findings because of the idiots in the audience. However, certain thresholds have to be exceeded to cause catastrophic failure...often in concert with other factors, known or unknown...usually, the latter. Its an undisputed fact that violating standard practice and safety precautions are recipes for disaster.
The gist of what I am trying to convey is that SOMETHING else was involved in the complete action failure of the rifle mentioned. There's a long list and it's now a moot point, because without all the evidence, it becomes a cold case file.
By and large it must be noted that Mauser actions are case (surface) hardened which leave an elastic inner core. This allows the action to stretch before shattering....like the early 1903 Springfield's were known for. If said Mauser action was improperly treated it's possible, but still unlikely to grenade because of the low/medium carbon alloy utilized. A very quick burning propellant can generate excessive pressure waves faster than the steel can yield/stretch....but not the ones mentioned in the video.
I think the shooter didn't tell the whole story....and probably just as well.
Wrong bullet left laying around. Mauser I thought was one of the strongest actions in the world
Blow up a Mauser? Only if you removed surface hardening or receiver was cracked. To cause catastrophic failure of even a soft Spanish Small Ring Mauser, there has to be preexisting damage, cracks or weakening of case hardening by removing of surface metal or extensive warpage/pitting and metal fatigue or you loaded a round with pistol powder in excess of 200000 PSI. If you blew up a Mauser, catastrophic failure, you wouldn't be making TH-cam videos, because you wouldn't be alive after a grenade exploded near your head. What a Mauser will do is lock you out. But prior to that you'll have increasingly hard extraction from unsafe bolt lug setback causing increasing headspace. When that happens eventually you won't be able to open the breach. All of these factors are READILY OBSERVABLE, even the micro cracks will tend to show lines on the surface of the receiver before they go critical. So, honestly, I'll call BS.
Yes, it's cheaper to buy a new rifle. No people shouldn't bubba surplus guns which haven't been bubba'd Yes, guns which have been bubba'd should be either remilled OR brought into a decent looking sporter/tactical configuration. No, fair-poor cosmetic condition rifles are not necessarily valuable as collector pieces, but those are the exception of whether one restores or customizes. Every weapon should be thoroughly examined for metal fatigue and warpage and cracks, etc. If any weapon swallows a Field headspace gauge it's not safe to shoot. If any weapon swallows a NoGo gauge it needs to be taken to a gunsmith/armorer.
The only way any of what you've said about a Mauser is possible is if you hotrodded a Chiang Kai Shek or Pakistani Mauser with poor heat treatment or you somehow got your hands on a NAZI last ditch Mauser or a Mauser late war manufactured by forced labor which was intentionally weakened - most of those are long gone. Or you could have gotten a Mauser action that was damaged in a fire whose metallurgy was compromised. Some Brazilian guns were reheat treated brittle like low number Springfields. Brazilian reject heat treats are still floating around in .30-06. Most of the forced labor sabotaged NAZI Mausers were destroyed by the early 1960s. And last ditch NAZI guns are collectors items today when you find them, but they were seldom picked up by GIs because they were slapped together so crudely and machined poorly - you'll know if you have a last ditch NAZI gun.