Did a shoot today with the I-2 in the overcast setting and definitely found myself going between -1/3 to -2/3 depending on how much shadow/blacks were in frame. Watched your video and confirmed! I always use my slr670x or slr680 iType from pola studio at a negative tic on my wheel 80% of the time with the Time Machine or with 680. The sx70’s aren’t perfect either and I’ve had to put my physical self in the same amount of lighting as what I want in frame to get the exposure I want. If my camera is in a good amount of shade with my framed subject in nice lighting I’ll have them blown out at least for my cameras. I guess I’m just used to expecting to set the exposure comp wheel all the time.
The i2 is fine with the adjustments mentioned in the video and as the film continues to evolve the meter can be upgraded with firmware to reflect the change - But yeah the box 600 cameras Are quite nice! Happy shooting!!
@@FIGITALREVOLUTION I feel like the problem with metering is a hardware issue, not a software issue. With the I-1, the issue was solved by using the phone camera to meter light properly, which didn't solve the issue when using the camera as a point-and-shoot. As for the film, the issue with it is that every batch is slightly different, I highly doubt there are going to be any outstanding improvements any time soon, if ever. My vintage cameras expose perfectly every time. Whereas the new $600/€700 I-2 won't do it by default.
I find my i2 produces solid results - and I also like my vintage systems as well. Whatever works for you is best for you- the film has definitely improved that last few years and I see no reason to believe that it won’t continue to improve as they make such small batches it encourages experimentation.
Thank you
Did a shoot today with the I-2 in the overcast setting and definitely found myself going between -1/3 to -2/3 depending on how much shadow/blacks were in frame. Watched your video and confirmed! I always use my slr670x or slr680 iType from pola studio at a negative tic on my wheel 80% of the time with the Time Machine or with 680. The sx70’s aren’t perfect either and I’ve had to put my physical self in the same amount of lighting as what I want in frame to get the exposure I want. If my camera is in a good amount of shade with my framed subject in nice lighting I’ll have them blown out at least for my cameras. I guess I’m just used to expecting to set the exposure comp wheel all the time.
Thanks for the review!
Even the cheapest 600 box-type Polaroid cameras expose better than the I-2.
The i2 is fine with the adjustments mentioned in the video and as the film continues to evolve the meter can be upgraded with firmware to reflect the change -
But yeah the box 600 cameras
Are quite nice! Happy shooting!!
@@FIGITALREVOLUTION I feel like the problem with metering is a hardware issue, not a software issue. With the I-1, the issue was solved by using the phone camera to meter light properly, which didn't solve the issue when using the camera as a point-and-shoot. As for the film, the issue with it is that every batch is slightly different, I highly doubt there are going to be any outstanding improvements any time soon, if ever. My vintage cameras expose perfectly every time. Whereas the new $600/€700 I-2 won't do it by default.
I find my i2 produces solid results - and I also like my vintage systems as well. Whatever works for you is best for you- the film has definitely improved that last few years and I see no reason to believe that it won’t continue to improve as they make such small batches it encourages experimentation.