5 PRIMING TIPS you NEED to know!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ม.ค. 2021
- Hi guys, in today's video we've gone back to the most basic/fundamental technique we can think of, the first stage of every paint job, the prime! Whether wondering how to paint Warhammer 40k, AOS, or your first Dungeons & Dragons miniature we've got you covered!
The video is packed with amazing painting tips and tricks, no matter how new to painting or experienced you are we'll give you all you need to get the perfect prime in any conditions!
I reference Tamiya sanding sponges in this video, they can be found here: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hob...
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In this video Byron’s using the Artis Opus Brushes!
Series D: These high-quality brushes are perfectly designed for stippling, smudging, drybrushing, buffing, and even edge-highlighting. store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series S - The perfect point, the ideal everyday brush: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series M - Shorter heads for precision detailing: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Series D Brush set: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
XL Series D: store.artis-opus.com/collecti...
Accessories (brush racks, cleaner, pallets): store.artis-opus.com/
Music: Bensounds
#ArtisOpus #Priming #Warhammer
"footage of UK sun not found" Outstanding!
🤭🤭🤭
Atleast most of the year is good for spray painting outside
Also be sure to take deep breathes while spray painting. I find I get really happy when I do it.
😵🤪🥴 ;)
Thank you for these tips! I’m new to minis and the euphoria I’ve felt using this tip is amazing
What a lovely white jumper you decided to wear while priming 😂
🤭It'd be much braver to take off my winter 'uniform'! It is sooo cold!😊🥶
Priming using a white rattle can is an art in of itself. Very easy to get a grainy finish with those, even when you follow these tips.
I can't agree more! I often prime with a light grey and then use the airbrush to turn it white for this reason😊
I learned how to prime by trial and error. Thanks for making a foundational video for painting miniatures
Something worth noting also is that some of the rattlecan primers out there are primer/microfillers, which means that they will fill and smooth over small imperfections in the surface so you don't have to sand out flow marks or tiny scrapes in the surface, the cheap and cheerful Halfords stuff is a good example of this, it can save you a little bit of prep time!
Very good point! Although with recent advancements in sculpting and casting these run the risk of obscuring microdetails e.g creases in the skin😊
This video gave me the confidence to prime a miniature after only painting pre-primed miniatures up to now. I did the "slapchop" method, overbrushing a mid-tone tone grey and then drybrushing white over a black primer. It came out nicely!
Hey buddy, that's great, exactly why we did it!
If you enjoyed slapchop, do check out our latest video, it's a very similar approach:
th-cam.com/video/Xcuvh-CvVu8/w-d-xo.html
"Never prime a miniature in wet conditions."
*Laughs in Florida Man*
tbh i don't mind priming after rain. The humidity offsets the Australian heat
Laughs in Mississippi Man
Laughs in Atlantean
So many climates with their own particular needs and requirements😁Not sure if I'll ever see a day where I'm crossing my fingers for rain to make things less dry😅
The “bad prime,” seems to provide a fantastic “rolled steel” look for the tank!
Unless it was an absolutely rusted Hulk I think it'd probably end up looking a bit over-textured. You have got me wondering though...😊
@@ArtisOpus keep us posted, your videos have me re-evaluating all my painting understanding. Additionally, my FLGS is now looking to try to carry your products, based on these tutorials!
@@NeoNaiche Thanks so much dude, really appreciate it🤗
Microwave works great for getting your primer ready. Pop it in for 30 seconds and the inside of your microwave is primed.
🥵😁
I just put the models in at the same time, the key is finding that gold spot where the minis don’t start melting but the can explodes.
Also, having a sheet of cardboard to catch any stray spray instead of it going on your wall is helpful 😜
Love the videos, man.
Very good point😊My bedroom windows when I was growing up were practically polka-dotted 😅
Maybe that is why he was ousted to outside. My wife does the same to me 😆😂🤣
I have a giant cardboard box that I tip on its side. Becomes a box that catches alllll the paint
@@chrisashcroft2111 I might have to do this cheers for the tip
@@chrisashcroft2111 and using duct tape (or similar) to seal up the box seams will really help to prevent any unwanted 'escapes' of spray
And when ur finished spraying turn ur can upside-down and spray utill clear but this is all good info especially for new comers
I know u do waste a bit but it stops the nozzle from blocking
I think there's better ways to keep your nozzle clean.
I've heard mixed opinions on this, one of them is that it was a lot more necessary on older cans before technology advanced. This isn't something I included in the video though because I'm not sure if it's true😊
I use Vallejo Surface Primer (Grey, Black, White) out an Airbrush. It usually comes out fantastic from the bottle.
Does it hold well ?
@@Dragongaze13 Yup, possibly not quite as hard wearing as chaos black, but much easier to get a consistantly thin but covering layer with an airbrush. But don't use flow improver / thinner, makes it much less hard wearing from my experience, messes with adhession somehow.
@@Dragongaze13 I've had great success with it adhering well. Like Adam3088 said, you shouldn't use flow improver or thinner in it. It sprays awesome straight out the bottle. Still take precautions with the mini by cleaning it before hand if its resin for sure though. I have taken to the practice of spraying it with primer, spraying the base coat color, then sealing it with a varnish (I use Vallejo Mecha Matte varnish). Base coat colors is usually where I find an issue with it holding. It sprays great out of an Airbrush (I use an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS .35mm for priming, base coats, varnish). Just need to make sure to clean it well after spraying varnish out of it because that stuff can gunk up your tool bad if it sits. I hope this helps!
This tip about the flow improver actually really makes sense. You learn something every day! Cheers guys!😊
Just recently started with the hobby. Thanks for the tips. Fun to watch.
Hi I work in injection molding as a processor and engineer
2:46 those lines you point out are actually from the mold having a multipart cavity, basically the cavity is made of separate blocks that can be interchanged to make different parts. This is usually done as a cost cutting measure.
Brilliant, much needed video. Had no idea why my priming wasn't great until seeing this. Thank you guys
Great to hear, buddy, always happy to help😊
Great tips here! I especially love seeing the distance demonstrated as just reading it doesn't always help.
Glad you find it useful, buddy!😊Thank you for watching!
Speaking as a painter who does murals: check out your local paint/hardware shop for some smaller caps if you want more control. Grey dots (Maclaim Caps) are amazing, because the original caps that come with these are quite 'rough/big'. Also: we actually put cans in a freezer if it's too hot outside, because it gives more control over the 'beam'. I don't know whether montana Gold is the same consistency as this paint or not, but the GW-cans are extremely expensive in comparison. Oh, and: step outside when you're working with this stuff, it's very hazardous to your lungs.
Excellently explained! Thanks! Bookmarked for later reference too! I'd love to see a video on varnishing as well. Thanks again for doing these.
You're so welcome, buddy, always happy to help! I need to go away and do some research before I teach that😊
Genuinely the most succinct and useful priming video I have seen - thank you!
Thanks, buddy! We're planning some more succinct fundamentals soon (we can manage when there's need ;))
Really helpful tips for a beginner such as myself. Thank you
Our pleasure, dude!
Actually super technical insight into priming, thanks for the vid! It was great
🥰 our pleasure
Really good explanation. Helped alot: especially the tips about considering the weather conditions and how it affects the distance to spray from.
Thanks dude, it's so much easier if you work with the knowledge :)
I have never seen sanding sponge before. This is an awesome video.
Never too late to find some new tricks about the hobby😊
Tanks for the tutorial. Some helpful tips in there.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching✌
This was super helpful!
Thank you for your work this video helped me a lot for improving my skills
Our pleasure, my dude!
As someone who's about to prime miniatures in Madrid in Summer, learning that I should be holding the can no further than 12cm away from the models is a great tip. Thank you!
:) De nada. I am currently in Malaga, I can definitely imagine having to do things differently here!
Stuff I already knew, but very well done for those who are new to the hobby or not sure how priming works!
Thanks, man! I learned a bit myself, putting it into words for the vid :)
Great vid!
Varnishing next!
Very good idea! But absolutely one, that i am going to need to do extra research and experimentation for😊
Nice to see all these priming tips in one vid!... I've constantly got an eye on the weather for good times to prime. At the moment, in the land of the aelf skippys, most mornings are fine... Just gotta get up before it gets too hot haha... I admit I'd never considered can temperature before. I'll be sure to warm em up for next time.
Glad you found it helpful, dude😊
Great tips. Didn't realise the can had to be "warm" and shaken for 2 mins. Looking forward to priming my next minis!
Great video as usual , glad your feeling better 👍
Just got my xl dry brush from element games 🥳🥳🥳
Awesome! Thank you so much for the purchase! Have you tried it yet? Hope it serves you well🤩
What did you think of the video? Do you have any tips? Let us know if you'd like to see a non-can version of the primer video in the future!
Yes, please & thank you. Spitting distance from Canada here, so rattle cans are only useful for about 4 months. Not lucky enough to have a hobby room to myself.
Brush priming (vallejo) or airbrush is the only way I go, I live in Florida in the USA so I can't use most sprays on miniatures.
Unrelated, But are you related (a happy coincidence pun) to Darren Latham? You look and sound a lot like that gentleman. You also have a similar demeanour to him.
Can you do a video on how to dry brush with multiple colours which are difficult to transition, for example Space Wolves with their grey armour and yellow shoulder pads? As (correct me if im wrong) all your tutorials so far only concentrate on one block gradient colour with details layered on after?
Thanks, a lot! Just started with the whole thing, and pretty much at every step I take I fear I might do everything wrong (which I kind of already did when assembling the minis).
Great informative no nonsense video!
Thanks bud!
Learned that too close gives you the pooling effect the hard way! Stopped at the mart to snag a degreaser before work. I’m excited to fix them up the right way!
Second try lucky! Good luck :). Well worth starting again, let us know how it goes.
Nice vid! I’m using an old video tripod to put the minis on too, helps get the distance right, you can move it around (or yourself) to get angles, as well as adjust height.
Really interesting idea, Nathan😊I can see it working, the angles really are very important, it's so easy to miss bits.
Love the content. I just started miniature painting and primed my Dreadnaught with Mephiston Red spray. After letting it dry, I saw some crevices aren't fully covered with the prime. Should I add another coat to it or would that spoil the miniature? Any tips would be helpful, thanks!
this one of the few videos i watch one youtube that really really helpt
Yes! That's why we make them dude, glad to be of service :)
Hey it's great to see content aimed at beginners, would love to see more :)
Thanks for the feedback, buddy✌I am absolutely going to do more beginner videos, I am here to learn along with you😊
Great tips! Thakn you!
You are so welcome! Glad it was helpful!😊
Super help full thanks
Our pleasure, my dude :)
Excellent vid thank you
Our pleasure dude! :)
Excellent video as always Byron. Rattlecans for life!!
Thanks again, buddy!😁Agreed 100%
Great video as usual. It would be good to see an airbrush priming vid. Have you tried to use any lacquer based airbrush primers before? I've switched over to alclads range with micro fillers and I find they retain a decent amount more detail than Vallejos range.
I'm interested in trying out more of the alcads products. I am a long-time user of the Vallejo airbrush primer and should really try some alternatives. Thanks so much for the suggestion😊
Number 5, holy shit, THATS what i've been needing.
:D yesss. All about finding those little hacks!
@@ArtisOpus I need to work out the kinks, but ive done the method, and it helped me so much. Thank you so much.
This man is more British than me.
I would never have thought of using the classic jumper trick to keep something like a spray can warm.
You can use a cricket jumper for extra warming, while keeping those arms agile, for tip-top painting! ;)
The mythical British sun...I thought I saw it would day. But, alas..it was a street light. Loved the video again :) thanks Byron
Thanks for watching, dude, and giving me a giggle😅
The GW I used to work in like 8 years ago used to store sprays by the blow heater on the wall, and those cans got warm as hell, plus side they primed really well, downside was I wasn’t sure if one day they were going to blow up 🤣
🤭🤭🤭
Well, this is going to be helpful, when i start up painting again. When it's not stupidly hot, here in Australia...
Oh dude, I can imagine. Here in the UK we so rarely have this issue😅
Thank you very much for this. I've been avoiding any work during winter due to low temperatures. Now I understand that the thing that really matters is the temperature of the can itself, not so much the air. I've also been having trouble controlling how much paint I release with each pass. It always seemed to be way too little or way too much.
Do you have any hard and fast rule of thumb to measure if it's too wet for priming? I've heard 60% humidity, 70%, 90%, along various hacks like using a hair drier together with your can, that supposedly allow you to prime even during rain.
I don't know much about the humidity percentages. I am always so fearful of ruining my models, I just don't risk it😊 Lots of thin coats is always better than one that's too thick. Thanks for your comment, happy to help!
I turned my space marines in a space explorer when I was to close to him haha, once I retrieved from the other side of the room it was still a learning experience
:D no idea how we missed this, laughed out loud!
Love the worms sound bite thrown in there!!! 😅👍
I’m so nervous for priming my first models thanks for the tips
You're most welcome! Let us know how it goes 👀Good luck!
@@ArtisOpus it went well
Great video. Basics are always good to know, easy to make mistakes early on. Would you consider a NMM vid in the future?
Thanks a lot Darren! Absolutely, I just have to find some time to relearn it😊
Fantastic video as usual! One question, not sure if you've addressed it in previous videos, do you thin your paints when drybrushing or do you just go straight from the pot?
Hey dude, the dampening pad serves this purpose check out here: th-cam.com/video/kxuY2NXeI2M/w-d-xo.html
I'm literally waiting for the sun to go up so I can start my very first priming session and this pops up... Kinda scary but cheers for this!
:D:D Auspicious!
I just use my cheap airbrush neo cn and airbrush vallejo primer. It's fantastic. Never need to replace cans or have them shipped.
That's great, dude😊Thanks for the suggestion!
Great video any video on priming with an airbrush?
It will come at some point, there're lots of products out there that I need to test out first😊
Thank you for this. Would you recommend priming with an airbrush. Would any of your recommendations change if using an airbrush?
For me, the ideal solution is light prime from a can followed by an airbrush. For me 100% airbrush just doesn't offer the same protection😊
Glad to know what Bilbo Baggins is up to these days!
I thought he'd be painting LOTR warhammers though.. :P
love your video. If say you got spotty / fluffy undercoats, is there anyway you can fix it?
A stiff nylon brush and a good scrub, if it doesn't do enough then stripping and starting again may be in order :)
Thanks for the tips! Do you ever go in with a brush after the rattle can? In painting tutorials I always see perfectly primed models, but my biggest problem is that I often don’t get good coverage in slightly harder to reach areas without putting on too much on the bigger/outer parts of models - but I’m not sure if that’s just the ways it is and I need to fix with the brush afterwards or if I’m doing something wrong. I’ll use all your tips in the future and see if that helps.
Hi Martin, this is a really excellent question, I think I'll be doing a non-can priming video in the future. - Do you have an airbrush?
I get really obsessive about the missed bits (you tend to notice them when you sit down in good light after thinking you were finished), my typicalapproach is to lightly prime, try and catch all angles, and then of in with the airbrush to catch missed bits (often for me this'll involve a deep blue/off black, so it's half base-coat half prime).
If no airbrush then a good coverage black + a little of your basecoat colour and a size 3 or 4 is great, too!
Artis Opus Thanks! It’s good to know that you don’t get a perfect result in every corner with the can. No airbrush here, yet. 😬 I’ll do the brush way for now.
It's better to spray your miniature in a good posture. I normally spray them in a box so the paint doesn't go over the walls of the garage.
And I also do my undercoating away from other people so they do not inhale the paint fumes.
Two more things I've learnt from you in this video, thank you! 👌
You're so welcome buddy! Thanks for sharing your tips too! 😊
Great helpful vid!, I am just wondering if you always wash the minis with (soapy) water before priming?
Thanks, buddy! This is something I tend to reserve for resin minis like Forgeworld😊
stynelrez airbrush for the win. Have you ever tryed using laquors like mr colour or tamiya they do such good work through an airbrush started using a lot of scale model teq. on imp guard, would be nice to see you do big imperial tanks like malcador, or macharius weathering and camo such filters mabey just a suggestion.
I need to give some time to military techniques for sure. I've used a few of the sprays but struggled with the slightly tacky end result. Thanks for the suggestion😊
Didn't know the sanding the mold release parts that are shinier/more matte..
I guess for big models and flat or surfaces is important.
Thanks!
Absolutely, dude😊You're most welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the tutorial guys, i always have problems when i'm priming my minatures because where i live is always humid but i'm trying my best 💪
Do you have any suggestion for people that live is the same condition that i am? thanks mate and keep up the good work
Wait for the better days, maybe prime in a garage in small goes or something, or... Brush/airbrush on primer maybe if all else fails. Good luck!
I wish you did all videos like this... Epic stuff. Not a fan of the rattle can's myself and use airbrushes more these days but totally appreciate the content. But I do have a question. Where did you get your sanding sponge from? It looks far better than some sanding clothes that I have and would appreciate a link if you have it :) cheers
Thanks so much, dude! Check out the first link in the description, it's awesome though, you won't regret it😉
Being a airbrush user I have to say that most of the tips will apply.
Yup! A lot of these stuff is completely universal 😊
Good stuff, thanks very much. Any recommendations on what are good primers to use? What about brands outside the ordinary like Wilkos?
vallejo primers are perfect. army painters primers work very well as well. tbh probably any primer for acrylics should give decent results. I saw youtube videos where people got the cheapest primers directly fromt he hardware store and the result wasnt different at all. as long as the primer is acrylic / water based paint you should be good to go
@@Bscoop75 ah, why thank you very much!
I think the main thing you get when spending more on primers is the consistency. Screwing up a prime is such an awful thing and my hobby time is limited so my main concern when picking is just the one that won't screw up😊
For matt black basic prime, I use MoTip car primers (bought on ebay, typically you get 30% extra free and its very cheap). Have never had any issues with them.
Thank you for this Tutorial! How would you remove a prime if you messed it up?
Biostrip! It's magic stuff, and not too nasty :) th-cam.com/video/BVnN36OzhlA/w-d-xo.html
and before anyone says otherwise, yes, you can used GW sprays as primers!!!
Agreed!😊
Its...KINDA what they were specifically designed for...
Hey Artis Opus, what do you think of undercoating by brushing it in 1-2 layers on the mini, i ve seen you mostly use spray paint but would you tell me some reasons not to undercoat by brushing it on the minature? i ve already tested it and dont see any big differences, i just think if i brush it i could use less paint and do some highlights with a second coat?
Hey dude, nothing wrong with it, it's just less protective than a spray undercoat, if your minis don't get handled too much, or you don't find it coming off during painting then there's no problem!
If I did this I would drybrush it off edges :)
Subbed, thanks.
Thanks buddy, plenty more videos to come!
Just discovered your channel and love your videos :) Is there a general rule on when you use black or white primer? I've only used white primer so far and am not sure in which situation I should maybe rather use a black one. Any help would be appreciated :)
Hey dude, white primer if you're going for heavy contrast/wash/shade techniques in my opinion, my preference is (to generalise) A black prime or dark grey/dark prime with a drybrush over the top.
You get best of both worlds, no weird light shadows, but you're also not 'fighting' to cover over the black.
Another way to achieve this is to 'dust' a light primer from above/up to 45degrees over your black primed model, if you google 'zenithal priming' you'll see loads of examples.
If you reply to this and I don't get back to you comment in a newer video, it's a bit difficult to track comment chains in YT, we're happy to help though!
@@ArtisOpus cool, thanks for the tips :) So far, I only used washes to "paint" my minis but am about to start using acrylic paints. So, for my "washes only" method it seems the white primer was the right choice ;)
When you say you use a black/dark grey primer with a drybrush over the top, do you mean you cover the whole primed mini with a drybrush as a sort of base coat and then start painting the mini?
I've got dry brushes, acrylic paints, texture palette and everything coming, can't wait to dive into this and your videos made me realize how much I want to try out dry brushing :D
Dude, you're sanding on top of the new grapes !
Thanks for the tips. :-) Where do you get the sanding sponge from?
Hey James, Element stock it - it's the first link in the video description :)
@@ArtisOpus thank you :-)
Hey, some dumb questions...if I have to use a brush on primer (winter, cold as hell here in Canada), how many coats do you recommend? Also, is there a way to simulate spray primer zenithal highlights with brush on primer, or would that just be wet blending technique but with primers?
How much of the priming of the model can you do to really impact the painting process?
Thanks for your time.
if you use a brush (I did that as well. it sucks compared to rattlecan or airbrush) try to thin the paint and go for 2 or even 3 VERY thin layers. the goal should be to establish a base that other paint can stick to, and not to cover any detail at all.
a real zenithal highlight can be done, but is tricky. there´s some good videos on youtube about exaggerating highlights under the basecoat. it won´t ever be a s fine as it would have been with spray or airbrush, but it can be done...
if you paint a whole army for example, you can choose to prime in the army primary color. for example blue primer for ultramarines in 40k... or red for a demon army or whatever.
it can really save loads of time to do this and the army is tabletop ready much much faster of course.
@@Bscoop75 Thank you so much!
2 or 3 coats for brush on primer I agree with. It's slower but you can get good quality. You can actually do some pre-shading with the drybrush similar to zenithal pre-shading, just work your way up with heavily diluted stippling😊
@@ArtisOpus Thank you as well!
@@johnnyka-pow7481 What i do when its to cold outside is to sprey out of the window. Works fine but keep track of the can that it is outside.
well that last thank could still be used as a good battle worn, weathered thank :-) and curious how you would paint it anyway. how good are you to make something epic out of that tank :-)
Unless it was completely rusted, that might be slightly too challenging 😅 That tank is probably going to make an appearance in a stripping 2.0 😊
This was extremely helpful, from one Brit to another! Probably worth mentioning that room temperature is 20 ish degrees so leaving it inside and having a quick cuppa would work.
Yea good point, dude. Ambient temperature makes a real difference and lots of people would store their cans in a cool place as per instructions 😊 Thank you for watching!
Shake the can upside down as well, use gravity to help you mix the pigment that has settled on the bottom
Great tip, thanks!😊
As an ex Londoner the "sun not found" graphic made me actually laugh out loud.
😅😩
Do you prime the parts before or after construction?
When you’ve shaken the can for 2 minutes, how soon do you have to reshake it? Eg you shake and then someone comes to the door and interrupts you. Do you need to reshake?
Gloves, please use rubber Gloves when you Prime. Good video. :)
Yes, gloves are recommended! 😊
I noticed the worms armageddon "perfect" sound clip :D
🤭Absolute classic!
nice
Thanks!😊
How long should you wait to let the primer properly adhere to plastic or resin before starting to apply paint?
Until it's touch-dry :). Depends on temperature etc, but normally if your coats aren't thick that's 10-15mins max
What do you call that brush that you use before the undercoat?
That's our XL brush, dude, you can check it out here: store.artis-opus.com/collections/popular-products/products/series-d-xl-brush-not-included-in-series-d-brush-set
So, do the opposite if I decide to prime an Ork? Great tips, just getting into painting miniatures and need all the help I can get, lol.
Haaa, nope, even they don't get to rebel! :) Good luck dude, let us know in another vid if you're having any problems, and we'll sort you out!
this is why I bought myself an airbrush
😁
Where can i find that texture board? Beautiful!
store.artis-opus.com/collections/accessories/products/xl-texture-pallet-graffiti-preorder
go ham, they are extremely beautiful indeed
Watch this space👀We're currently working on introducing it 😊
@@ArtisOpus Teasing is not okay 🥲
"bloody freezing" - laughs in Canadian
🥶
-laughs at Canadian humidity
Fuck this was handy! Great video! Subbed!
Awesome, buddy! Thanks so much for the support!😊
Why oh why couldn’t I have found this video 4 hours ago before I primed 27 models for the first time 🤦♂️
Oh no! Well now you can apply it, at least :). Hope they turned out well, and you didn't prime in the bath 🤣
@@ArtisOpus hahaha! No bath priming so I should be fine
"Take it into a garage" Man, i put an unopened can of spray on the table and I get moaned at for hours because of the smell. Thats before I've even sprayed anything.
🤭🤭My girlfriend had a laugh at this one!
Hey everyone! Is it possible to remove dried paint from a spray nozzle off a rattle can? It clogged the spray nozzle, and wont spray properly now. I only ask so I dont have to keep paying for mephiston red cans in the future.
Hey dude, try using a cotton bud soaked in extremely strong alcohol, use a twisting motion and it should break down any built-up paint in no time.😊
Out of curiosity how often should someone wait after priming a miniature to start painting?
Depends if you use a hair dryer or not. If you are impatient 10/2 mins accordingly. 😊
I live in Sweden and during the winter you can basically stand in one end of the garage and spray your mini on the opposite end of the garage lmfao.
In all seriousness tho, for others in cold places a quick tip is to follow all steps above but avoid leaving the mini in the cold before and after priming. The final paint can look tacky if there is a huge temperature diffrence
Loool! Amazing tip dude, very good point, if I revisit the priming video on the future I'll make sure to cover mini temperature, so many people have hobby areas in garages or basements, it's very relevant!