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Juliet Braidwood
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2020
Hello! I'm Juliet, a historian and costumer in the UK, with interests in clothing ranging from the C16th all the way up the the C20th. My current main project is an embroidered jacket from the late 16th - early 17th Centuries, though it's currently progressing rather slowly: M.E. isn't making sewing easy.
I thought it might be nice to share some of my projects, and how I made them (possibly along with other historical costumy things!). I also have plans for sharing my small collection of original 19th century clothing pieces in the future. Please don't expect cinematic brilliance or coherent voice overs - this is all still a massive experiment... Uploads will be sporadic for now, since the M.E. means I have very limited energy.
I thought it might be nice to share some of my projects, and how I made them (possibly along with other historical costumy things!). I also have plans for sharing my small collection of original 19th century clothing pieces in the future. Please don't expect cinematic brilliance or coherent voice overs - this is all still a massive experiment... Uploads will be sporadic for now, since the M.E. means I have very limited energy.
Mantua Makers and the Rise of the Female Dressmaker - Silk Routes Symposium
Silk Routes Symposium Class: Mantua Makers and the Rise of the Female Dressmaker
When thinking of 18th-century clothing, images immediately come to mind of opulent silk gowns worn over panniers, heavily trimmed and embroidered. Such gowns were the work of female seamstresses, who for the first time in European History were legally working in guild structures. This class will explore the 17th century origins of such gowns, and how their widespread adoption assisted the rise of female dressmakers.
This is by no means a complete discussion of any or all of the topics covered (dressing gowns in the 17th and 18th century, for example, were not solely inspired by Kimonos, but also drew on garments worn in Turkey, India, and China, for instance), but hopes to inspire more thought into how European fashionable dress was inspired by the rest of the world.
For more information on Kimono, see Erika's Silk Routes video: Intro to Kimono. th-cam.com/video/TBQUn8pt_g0/w-d-xo.html
Primary Sources:
Arrival of the Europeans Screen - www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/65417?when=A.D.+1600-1800&ao=on&showOnly=openAccess&ft=japan&offset=1880&rpp=40&pos=1899
Dutchman with Servant - www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/78065
Robe (Kosode) with cherry blossoms and cypress fence www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/53610?sortBy=Date&when=A.D.+1600-1800&ao=on&showOnly=openAccess&ft=japan&offset=1040&rpp=40&pos=1048
VOC Plate - www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/49294
Secondary Sources:
Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 1, The School of Historical Dress, London, 2021
Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 5, The School of Historical Dress, London, 2018
Blaine, Dr. Ilana Singer, Kimono, Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art www.tmja.org.il/filesystem/KIMONO%20ENG.pdf
Crowston, Clare, Engendering the Guilds: Seamstresses, Tailors, and the Clash of Corporate Identities in Old Regime France, French Historical Studies, Vol 23:2, Spring 2000, pp.339-371 read.dukeupress.edu/french-historical-studies/article-abstract/23/2/339/26252/Engendering-the-Guilds-Seamstresses-Tailors-and?redirectedFrom=fulltext
Crowston, Clare, Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France 1675-1791, Duke University Press, Durham and London, 2001
Crowston, Clare, Women, Gender, and Guilds in Early Modern Europe, paper presented at The Return of the Guilds, Utrecht University, 5-7 October 2006 iisg.nl/hpw/papers/guilds-crowston.pdf
Doolan, Paul, The Dutch in Japan, History Today, Vol 50 (4), April 2000, pp.36-42
Glamann, Kristof, Dutch-Asiatic Trade 1620-1740, Martinus Nijhoff's Gravenhage, Den Haag, 1981
Hill, Daniel D., History of World Costume and Fashion, Prentice Hall, New York, 2011
Joby, Christopher Richard, Dutch in Seventeenth-Century Japan: A Social History, Journal of Low Country Studies, Vol 42:2 2018, pp.175-196 www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/03096564.2017.1279449?journalCode=ydtc20
Koda, Harold, and Richard Martin. “Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000 - www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/hd_orie.htm (October 2004)
Kramer, Elizabeth, and Akiko Savas, The Kimono Craze: From Exoticism to Fashionability, 2020 researchportal.northumbria.ac.uk/ws/portalfiles/portal/20781498/Kramer_The_Kimono_Craze.pdf
Mikhaila, Ninya, and Jane Malcolm Davies, The Typical Tudor, .....................
North, Susan, Indian Gowns and Banyans - New Evidence and Perspectives, Costume, Volume 54:1, pp.30-55
Satsuki Milhaupt, Terry, Kimono: A Modern History, Reaktion Books, London, 2014 www.perlego.com/book/777191/kimono-a-modern-history-pdf
Thornton, Peter, The 'Bizarre' Silks, The Burlington Magazine , Aug., 1958, Vol. 100, No. 665 (Aug., 1958), pp. 265-270
Thunder, Moira, Object in Focus: Man's Banyan, Word and Image Department, Victoria and Albert Museum www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Banyans-21.pdf
Thursfield, Sarah, Perfect Linens Plain and Fancy, 2006
Toyoshima, Masako, The Evolution of Japanese Women's Kimono from A.D.200 - 1960, Master's Report, Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas, 1967
Wahid, Abdul, The Dutch's 'Floating Life' on Deshima Island: A Gloomy Side of Dutch-Japan Relationship During the Tokugawa Periode, 1715-1790, Jurnal Kajian Wilayah, Vol. 6 No. 1, 2015. pp.1-16
Weibel, Adele C., A Silk Fabric of Bizarre Design, Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts , 1957-1958, Vol. 37, No. 1 (1957-1958),
pp. 5-6
Van Veen, Ernst, VOC Strategies in the Far East (1605-1640), Bulletin of Portuguese - Japanese Studies, Vol 3, Dec 2001, pp. 85 - 105 www.redalyc.org/pdf/361/36100306.pdf
V&A Museum, Japan's encounter with Europe, 1573 - 1853, www.vam.ac.uk/articles/japans-encounter-with-europe-1573-1853
When thinking of 18th-century clothing, images immediately come to mind of opulent silk gowns worn over panniers, heavily trimmed and embroidered. Such gowns were the work of female seamstresses, who for the first time in European History were legally working in guild structures. This class will explore the 17th century origins of such gowns, and how their widespread adoption assisted the rise of female dressmakers.
This is by no means a complete discussion of any or all of the topics covered (dressing gowns in the 17th and 18th century, for example, were not solely inspired by Kimonos, but also drew on garments worn in Turkey, India, and China, for instance), but hopes to inspire more thought into how European fashionable dress was inspired by the rest of the world.
For more information on Kimono, see Erika's Silk Routes video: Intro to Kimono. th-cam.com/video/TBQUn8pt_g0/w-d-xo.html
Primary Sources:
Arrival of the Europeans Screen - www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/65417?when=A.D.+1600-1800&ao=on&showOnly=openAccess&ft=japan&offset=1880&rpp=40&pos=1899
Dutchman with Servant - www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/78065
Robe (Kosode) with cherry blossoms and cypress fence www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/53610?sortBy=Date&when=A.D.+1600-1800&ao=on&showOnly=openAccess&ft=japan&offset=1040&rpp=40&pos=1048
VOC Plate - www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/49294
Secondary Sources:
Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 1, The School of Historical Dress, London, 2021
Arnold, Janet, Patterns of Fashion 5, The School of Historical Dress, London, 2018
Blaine, Dr. Ilana Singer, Kimono, Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art www.tmja.org.il/filesystem/KIMONO%20ENG.pdf
Crowston, Clare, Engendering the Guilds: Seamstresses, Tailors, and the Clash of Corporate Identities in Old Regime France, French Historical Studies, Vol 23:2, Spring 2000, pp.339-371 read.dukeupress.edu/french-historical-studies/article-abstract/23/2/339/26252/Engendering-the-Guilds-Seamstresses-Tailors-and?redirectedFrom=fulltext
Crowston, Clare, Fabricating Women: The Seamstresses of Old Regime France 1675-1791, Duke University Press, Durham and London, 2001
Crowston, Clare, Women, Gender, and Guilds in Early Modern Europe, paper presented at The Return of the Guilds, Utrecht University, 5-7 October 2006 iisg.nl/hpw/papers/guilds-crowston.pdf
Doolan, Paul, The Dutch in Japan, History Today, Vol 50 (4), April 2000, pp.36-42
Glamann, Kristof, Dutch-Asiatic Trade 1620-1740, Martinus Nijhoff's Gravenhage, Den Haag, 1981
Hill, Daniel D., History of World Costume and Fashion, Prentice Hall, New York, 2011
Joby, Christopher Richard, Dutch in Seventeenth-Century Japan: A Social History, Journal of Low Country Studies, Vol 42:2 2018, pp.175-196 www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/03096564.2017.1279449?journalCode=ydtc20
Koda, Harold, and Richard Martin. “Orientalism: Visions of the East in Western Dress.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000 - www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/hd_orie.htm (October 2004)
Kramer, Elizabeth, and Akiko Savas, The Kimono Craze: From Exoticism to Fashionability, 2020 researchportal.northumbria.ac.uk/ws/portalfiles/portal/20781498/Kramer_The_Kimono_Craze.pdf
Mikhaila, Ninya, and Jane Malcolm Davies, The Typical Tudor, .....................
North, Susan, Indian Gowns and Banyans - New Evidence and Perspectives, Costume, Volume 54:1, pp.30-55
Satsuki Milhaupt, Terry, Kimono: A Modern History, Reaktion Books, London, 2014 www.perlego.com/book/777191/kimono-a-modern-history-pdf
Thornton, Peter, The 'Bizarre' Silks, The Burlington Magazine , Aug., 1958, Vol. 100, No. 665 (Aug., 1958), pp. 265-270
Thunder, Moira, Object in Focus: Man's Banyan, Word and Image Department, Victoria and Albert Museum www.fashioningtheearlymodern.ac.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Banyans-21.pdf
Thursfield, Sarah, Perfect Linens Plain and Fancy, 2006
Toyoshima, Masako, The Evolution of Japanese Women's Kimono from A.D.200 - 1960, Master's Report, Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kansas, 1967
Wahid, Abdul, The Dutch's 'Floating Life' on Deshima Island: A Gloomy Side of Dutch-Japan Relationship During the Tokugawa Periode, 1715-1790, Jurnal Kajian Wilayah, Vol. 6 No. 1, 2015. pp.1-16
Weibel, Adele C., A Silk Fabric of Bizarre Design, Bulletin of the Detroit Institute of Arts , 1957-1958, Vol. 37, No. 1 (1957-1958),
pp. 5-6
Van Veen, Ernst, VOC Strategies in the Far East (1605-1640), Bulletin of Portuguese - Japanese Studies, Vol 3, Dec 2001, pp. 85 - 105 www.redalyc.org/pdf/361/36100306.pdf
V&A Museum, Japan's encounter with Europe, 1573 - 1853, www.vam.ac.uk/articles/japans-encounter-with-europe-1573-1853
มุมมอง: 3 062
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If I remember correctly, Jo March refers to herself as, or is referred to as the 'mantua maker general' of her family at one point in Little Women. She’s obviously not making actual mantuas in the latter half of the 1800s, but it’s interesting the term still survives.
I'm ,a 68 , years old Scotsman who, Whilst reading Charlies Dickens came across Mantua-Makers . Ignorant I watched, you're, video how enlightening, An Education, Thanks
This is a fantastic overview! I appreciate the political and economic history you linked to the cultural dissemination and the influences behind the changes in historical dress.
I’m about to watch all of your videos because I want to learn how to do this! I’ve done regency and 18th century but I really love this style of waistcoat. I also like musketeer era fashion
Fascinating!
i wonder if any of these pattern books survived?
I love watching the embroidery process and your video on the detached buttonhole stitch-yes to more and longer-thank you for beautiful work
This was so interesting! I'm surprised it was all hand sewn when sewing machines could have been available. Enough money to buy silk, but not enough to buy a sewing machine? Could the black lace have been added to suit someone coming out of a time of mourning perhaps?
Sewing machines were still quite expensive - they really come into their own in the 1880s and 1890s. It might be that the dress was made somewhere more provincial, where the seamstress hadn't acquired a sewing machine yet. Being lilac, white, and black, the dress might have been suitable for the last period of mourning, but the lace being very plasticy-polyester means it was probably a very, very late addition for costume use.
What stitches are you using here? I am making a 1620s dress at university and am trying to do time accurate embroidery but do not know where to start.
She mostly uses detached buttonhole stitch, there are videos explaining the stiches on her channel
I'm using detatched buttonhole stitch, stem stitch, and plaited braid stitch. Jacqui Carey's book 'Elizabethan Stitches' is a really good starting point for period accurate embroidery through to the early 17th Century. :)
Thankyou so much for teaching me
My pleasure 😊
1st Degrease. 2nd, evaporust or similar. 3rd, clean and polish. It will clean up a lot quicker than that.
I enjoyed this
Beautiful
👏👏👏
Thank you for this fascinating survey
Hi Juliet, I love your channel what kind of fabric you are using? Can you make some tutorials for the gold chain on the jacket please 😊
Thank you! :) I'm using silk taffeta for the C18th gown. I'll try and do a tutorial for the gold chain on the jacket at some point, though life and illness are rather getting in the way at the moment...
That looks excellent! Incredibly well done, and very relaxing to watch :)
Really enjoyed this documentary and have subscribed to your channel. Would love to see more of this sort of stuff, particularly you embroidering your own jacket. Thank you.
Thank you! I'll try and get some more jacket embroidery videos up at some point soon, though life and illness keep getting in the way...
What a lovely exploration! TH-cam just recommended your video and I am enchanted ❤ the dress is gorgeous, have you showed it to a dress historian? Really like your voice and music choice as well. Such a beautiful and relaxing video!
Thank you! I have plans to do some more videos like this one at some point, with other garments in my collection. I've got a friend who's a dress historian who I've talked about the dress with.
Great job you are a very fast learner. Brilliant 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏
Thank you! 😊
Thank you for this beautiful embroidry. My english is not very good but i can inderstand subtitles. Corinne from France.
I’m glad you like it! ☺️
Not sure if I missed this but tailors guild had exclusive rights to flat patterning and Mantua makers were able to rise up because they didn't use flat patterning, they used draping. Had they not adopted the draping technique (which arguably works better with the female form then a patterned method for the historical styles) they wouldn't have even been allowed to become a guild.
It was a point that I don’t think I got across overly well in the video (nothing like brain fog for making life difficult!). But yes, the exclusive flat patterning used by the tailors forcing women to drape (which you sort of have to do with the mantua and sacque and so on) was definitely a massive influence in the rise of mantua makers - I do wonder whether if a similar style of clothing had been adopted earlier, whether a female guild would have been formed earlier… Without a style of clothing that needed draping, I’d imagine that forming a female guild would have been far more difficult.
absolutely beautiful work, happy to have found your account! :D
Thank you! I’m glad you like it. :)
Your title said "Mantua Maker", so of course I had to come learn! Really enjoyed learning how female dressmakers began. Thinking about how sewing is often seen as "women's work" now, yet the designer field is often dominated by male designers 🤔. I also found the history of the banyan very interesting. Thank you!
I’m glad you enjoyed it! It’s interesting to see how gendered perceptions of different aspects of the textiles industry have changed over time!
this was realy interesting :) thank you for the informative video!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. :)
Really great presentation on the evolution of the banyan as well as the mantua and sackbacks. Thank you so much.
Thank you. :) I’m glad you liked it!
Let me point this out about the Jesuits ... they aren't a branch of the Catholic Church; rather, it is a Catholic religious order whose mission was to evangelize, much like the Benedictine order was dedicated to studying, the Carmelite order to praying. Religious orders could be male or female, or both; the Jesuit order was, and is to this day, a male order.
That’s a really good way of putting it - I couldn’t remember the words for religious order, so ended up putting it badly. Thank you for the extra clarification in a comment! :)
Fascinating! I learned a lot. Thank you!
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
This is a great video with a lot of really great detail and explanation!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it. :)
I’m loving the fabric and thread/yarn choice for your demonstration! It really helps to see the stitch
I’m so glad you’ve found it useful!
This was so nice! It was like we’re back at moggerhanger hanging on the couch😭 missing you already
Oh my goodness, I’ve only just seen this! It was really lovely being at Moggerhanger with you - hopefully you’ll be back in England again at some point soon! (Or I’ll just have to visit you…)
So beautiful work👍👍👍👍
Thank you! :)
Very good reviews and recommendations!
Thank you! :)
I made one myself and finished it in 2015, if you'd like to talk jackets, just drop me a message. These are such huge passion projects. Keep going, small bites.
Ooh! How long did it take you? I’m still going in small steps, but there’s nothing like illness to get in the way of progress…
@Juliet Braidwood it took me 3 years, I picked up worked on a panel for a few months, put it down, and worked on other projects. In total, it was 1927 hours of hand embroidery as I had to learn stitches and reteach myself some stitches at some point. But you can do it! Get better soon!
Wow! I’d love to see a picture at some point.
@@julietbraidwood8466 www.pinterest.com/pin/447263806719021907/
Thank you so much for this good video💕🇨🇦
I’m glad you like it. :)
Hi, Juliet! how is your work going? Recently I juggled the idea I'd started the same project. But I'm afraid I'd threw it in the corner half way through. Are you still enjoying the process? I'll probably choose a little less demanding emroidery pattern. Thanks to you I learned the dettached buttonhole stitch and thank you so much :-). Fingers crossed, I can't wait for news.
It’s still going! Slowly, admittedly, but I’m hoping the back panel will be finished by the end of this week… I’ll try and do an update video at some point, but it may be a little while off yet: chronic illness doesn’t half make life difficult! Which embroidery pattern are you doing?
Very useful, I've been meaning to learn this stitch, thanks! And the embroidered waistcoat you're recreating looks really pretty, I'm looking forward to seeing more of it, 17th century is sadly so underrated in CosTube.
Thank you! Hopefully it’ll be finished at some point!
This embroidery is amazing :) :)
Thank you!
I had been watching you sew previously, and wondered what stitch you were doing. It all makes sense now, thanks for the tutorial!
I’m glad you like it! I’m planning on doing some other videos on the other stitches I use at some point too. :)
The fabric is so loose 😯
Bizarrely I’ve found it easier to work these stitches on looser fabric! Plaited braid stitch especially would be difficult on fabric stretched really tight because it needs the needle to weave under and over different threads.
Thanks so much for sharing these embroidery process videos. I find them both soothing and educational
I’m glad you like them! There’ll certainly be more in the future. :)
that blackworked smock is soooo beautiful omg
Thank you!
I enjoyed this QandA! Learning new things about history and a friend. Biggest reveal... :O You don't like Rose?! Odd question... Taffeta silk is pretty, but isn't it hard to sew? Thanks for the calm and cool content <3 ❤
Thank you! It depends on what you’re doing with it! I like silk taffeta because like linen, it stays where you put it when creased. Sewing through 5 layers of it isn’t fun (which is what I’m having to do with the trim), but I do like sewing with it for seams and construction. But maybe I’m just a bit odd…
@@julietbraidwood8466 you're not odd just logical :)
omg hsp makes me so annoyed too! people will really go so far to avoid using the term autistic lol
They will! And it’s not like autistic is a bad thing - if anything, being so diagnosed can offer more support
What a interesting life you lead all the best to you
Thank you!
I wish I could have my old singer threadle machine serviced but it is sooooo heavy I can not carry it around to get it to the sewing machine shop and I don't even know If they would be able to fix what is wrong.... :(
That’s a pity… I wonder if sewing machine servicing people do home visits when Covid isn’t a thing? There might be videos of how to fix it - the nice thing about mechanical machines is that they’re easier to fix than computerised ones!
@@julietbraidwood8466 I could always ask, they might be willing. It has been my mother in laws machine too - so it would be incredible nice to be able to use it. Maybe when this whole pandemic thing is gone I will ask them.
super useful video! looking forward to the next part in this series :)
I’m glad it’s useful! There’ll be at least three more sooner or later…
you've done absolutely stunning work, I'm so glad you filmed it to share! lol, if I tackle one of the embroidered patterns in the Seventeenth Century Women's Dress Patterns books it will be entirely your fault!
Thank you! One of the embroidery patterns from the Seventeenth Century Women’s Dress Patterns would be amazing to recreate! I ended up beginning this jacket before I had the book, so made life a lot more difficult for myself by having to make up the pattern from photographs of the jacket online... I’m planning on doing a video of stitch tutorials at some point, which should be helpful. :)
@@julietbraidwood8466 oh I'm glad you have those books now! I love how informative they are. and I look forward to your stitch tutorials!
That material is beautiful
Isn’t it?! It’s the Garden Gates one from Liberty’s Orchard Garden collection. :)
What an excellent video! You're very easy to listen to, and chocked so much information into very little time!! These jackets are all so beautiful.
Thank you! 😊 They’re absolutely stunning, aren’t they?! It’d be amazing to see them as they were when they were new!