Master Kook, Appreciate the video, but more so appreciate how receptive you are in the comments to feedback, even when it’s not super chill or, frankly, friendly. Shows you are a humble kook and keen to learn, which I think is super cool. Keep on rocking in the free world. Chuckster
You should not add washers between your electrical joints. Washers should be used on the outside to distribute your bolt clamping force. The washer in the middle will add a small amount of resistance to your joint. Sanding down to bare metal prior to torquing will be much more successful and maximize the surface area bonding your terminal lug to the chassis in this case. Good luck and happy trails!
Yeah your going to get funky voltage reads and your BMS could turn off to protect your batteries. There’s also a possibility you could damage your vans circuits from back feed. Just letting you know from experience. Good luck
Hi, thanks for the video. I’m at the terrifying electrical stage of my build haha. Can I ask, what size drill bit you used for the chassis hole? Small and also what size bolt were you using? Thank you for the video! ✌️✌️
I used a step bit there's a link in the description. I recommend a 3/8" or larger stainless bolt with locking washers. All stainless steel otherwise it will rust.. Someone had a great comment about the bolt to the chassis as well in the thread.
Is there any benefit to attaching the ground to the chassis versus the frame on the inside of the van? Also, would it be necessary to put some sealant around the wire that went through the floor, to prevent any water from getting in? Or is that that just totally unlikely to happen?
"2 gauge" (2AWG) is far smaller than 2/0 (2 aught). Looks like what you're holding in the beginning of your video is 2/0. There's a difference, and especially if you intend to guide folks who are seeking to learn this stuff. Thanks for your content, otherwise. Oh, and go getcherself a good pair of electrical CABLE cutters. Helps to keep the fine copper strands in good-quality cable from being squished out-of-round, and that eases the installation of your cable lugs. Anyway, I had to bail at the 1:43 mark. Good luck to you.
Crimp with a vise grip, urh!!! I don't care how much force you can put, it won't apply the pressure to all sides. The flat part of the crimp is pretty weak, can't meet the minimum compression. Sorry, pls stop showing people. Either use a proper crimp tool (hydraulic), or drill a hole through the lug, crimp using a vise-grip, then heat up and pour solder into the hole. (apply flux to the wire before crimp).
Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. While I have used the hydraulic crimp tool in the past. I definitely should get another one. Sometimes on this channel I like to share how to do these diy van projects on a budget. We like to promote that sometimes can make it happen with what you currently have. I've crimped many wires with this vise and the lug is so incredibly smashed on there (for lack of a technical term) and I've never any problems. However, I totally agree. I was going to buy some proper crimpers for upcoming projects because it's so much faster. So I wont show this dirtbag hack anymore. If you have any recommendations for good crimpers I'll check them out.
I like that you want to show ways to get by with what you have not only for budget constraints, but also as van travelers our space is very limited. I do not have a set of crimpers large enough to crimp the heavy gauge wire needed for my HO alternator, dc to dc charger, etc... The hexagonal large gage crimpers aren't overly expensive but they also aren't something I want to carry around. I was considering the hamer style lug crimper because it's more compact. The hammer style crimper seems to utilize a pinch point crimp, I think by pinching some of the lug in the center you reduce the over all circumference of the lug. I do have access to a vice at the moment, I wonder if adding something in between the vice and the lug to create a pinch point would work the same as the hammer crimper and give a better overall fit to the basic smash. Thanks for the video!
Master Kook,
Appreciate the video, but more so appreciate how receptive you are in the comments to feedback, even when it’s not super chill or, frankly, friendly. Shows you are a humble kook and keen to learn, which I think is super cool. Keep on rocking in the free world.
Chuckster
Thanks Chuckster! You’re a real legend yourself! Officially a certified kook.
You should not add washers between your electrical joints. Washers should be used on the outside to distribute your bolt clamping force. The washer in the middle will add a small amount of resistance to your joint. Sanding down to bare metal prior to torquing will be much more successful and maximize the surface area bonding your terminal lug to the chassis in this case. Good luck and happy trails!
Awesome thanks for this! Appreciate it!
I like it, great video. I would recommend tinned lug terminals for anywhere moisture is present (like under a van).
Thanks 🙏
Awesome video. One question. Heard Lithium leisure battery best not to ground because of BMS? Do I have to ground for Lithium battery as well? Cheers
I’ve never heard this. I’ve grounded every lithium battery I’ve ever installed
@@Vankookz I see. I guess I will proceed and to replace.
Thanks for the information!
Yeah your going to get funky voltage reads and your BMS could turn off to protect your batteries. There’s also a possibility you could damage your vans circuits from back feed. Just letting you know from experience. Good luck
not sure if any amount of heat shrink doubling over will waterproof it
Is it ok to use the starter batteries negative terminal as the earth? As my vans build is complete so cant realy access the chasis.,.
There’s usually a heath point inside the van I use the rear seatbelt anchorage that overkill
Do you really need to use a 2 gauge wire, I was thinking maybe 10 gauge, maybe 12! :)
Hi, thanks for the video. I’m at the terrifying electrical stage of my build haha.
Can I ask, what size drill bit you used for the chassis hole? Small and also what size bolt were you using?
Thank you for the video! ✌️✌️
I used a step bit there's a link in the description. I recommend a 3/8" or larger stainless bolt with locking washers. All stainless steel otherwise it will rust.. Someone had a great comment about the bolt to the chassis as well in the thread.
Y’all can borrow my giant crimpers anytime and I wish I had one of those step drills when I was doing my build
Dude I saw your massive crimpers. I think of them every time I need to crimp a wire with my janky vice set up.
@@Vankookz You’re always welcome at the “no limit van life” garage.
Is there any benefit to attaching the ground to the chassis versus the frame on the inside of the van? Also, would it be necessary to put some sealant around the wire that went through the floor, to prevent any water from getting in? Or is that that just totally unlikely to happen?
Chassis or frame is ok I’ve done it both ways. Also yes you can use a sealant I didn’t show that step but I used lap sealant.
Do u run both the batteries n inverter off the grounded busbar or just 1
You can ground it all to the bus bar
Are you using the word "chasis" for "frame"?
You just need to find a solid ground connection on the body/frame of the van.
I’ve used the body before and it’s fine. Just text with a multimeter
Did you not just dril through your chasis to run your wire through to connect to the frame?
Yeah just used a step bit popper a hole and ran it through added a rubber grommet to the hole as well to protect the wire.
A tip use tinned lugs next time. Cos untinned rusts
Yeah I’ve never had the copper rust. Probably a good idea for the under carriage bolts and lugs. I did use stainless.
"2 gauge" (2AWG) is far smaller than 2/0 (2 aught). Looks like what you're holding in the beginning of your video is 2/0. There's a difference, and especially if you intend to guide folks who are seeking to learn this stuff. Thanks for your content, otherwise. Oh, and go getcherself a good pair of electrical CABLE cutters. Helps to keep the fine copper strands in good-quality cable from being squished out-of-round, and that eases the installation of your cable lugs. Anyway, I had to bail at the 1:43 mark. Good luck to you.
Why not just use the seatbelt bolt if one is convenient?
Yeah that will work too
I was wondering this. Why drill holes in the chassis? There's loads of bolts inside !
I’m no expert but I believe that’s a vice, not a vice grips.
I dunno if u shuld be this stoned doing electrics 😅
thnks for the good stuff tho
Crimp with a vise grip, urh!!! I don't care how much force you can put, it won't apply the pressure to all sides. The flat part of the crimp is pretty weak, can't meet the minimum compression. Sorry, pls stop showing people. Either use a proper crimp tool (hydraulic), or drill a hole through the lug, crimp using a vise-grip, then heat up and pour solder into the hole. (apply flux to the wire before crimp).
Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. While I have used the hydraulic crimp tool in the past. I definitely should get another one. Sometimes on this channel I like to share how to do these diy van projects on a budget. We like to promote that sometimes can make it happen with what you currently have. I've crimped many wires with this vise and the lug is so incredibly smashed on there (for lack of a technical term) and I've never any problems. However, I totally agree. I was going to buy some proper crimpers for upcoming projects because it's so much faster. So I wont show this dirtbag hack anymore. If you have any recommendations for good crimpers I'll check them out.
I like that you want to show ways to get by with what you have not only for budget constraints, but also as van travelers our space is very limited. I do not have a set of crimpers large enough to crimp the heavy gauge wire needed for my HO alternator, dc to dc charger, etc... The hexagonal large gage crimpers aren't overly expensive but they also aren't something I want to carry around. I was considering the hamer style lug crimper because it's more compact. The hammer style crimper seems to utilize a pinch point crimp, I think by pinching some of the lug in the center you reduce the over all circumference of the lug. I do have access to a vice at the moment, I wonder if adding something in between the vice and the lug to create a pinch point would work the same as the hammer crimper and give a better overall fit to the basic smash. Thanks for the video!
Says crimper waves a wire stripper up 😂😂😂 jokes. Like your content so no offense ment.
All good. That stripper has wire crumpets on it FYI.