A lot of good in your video! In a short video I understand you Are limited to the content you can tackle. I would ask viewers to study multi-directional belay anchors and their uses for rope solo. Ask yourself: what if I do a factor 2 fall? What if I fall right after my first piece and this one blows? Also: ascending the rope suspended on a Kong duck can look like a great idea BUT if you have too much slack in the rest of the pitch above: your life depends on that single piece!!! When you rappel the pitch: prepare the rope so it is safe to reascend!!! Or you could die. Very important. Also I don’t like this use of the duck: there are ways to build so much tension in the system during a fall that you will have to cut the rope to get it back. Can you imagine how it could happen? I can. Also: you have 2 separate belay loops… my recommendation is for you to use them! (Clip the overhand to second loop for example). But for people without a second belay loop: make sure your harness is burly (not ultra ultra light) and that it is in great great shape! I like using a Petzl Ring Open to backup or replace my belay loops but that’s not what manufacturers recommend. Make sure you use a torque wrench if you go for it. Happy you share the stoke! See you around some day 😊
Thanks so much for the comment from the man himself! I am very careful about the problem of tension and if the long duck is placed correctly it will not create tention in a fall. I will use a ring for my belay loop as that’s way stronger thanks for the idea! As for the reascending problem, I make sure there is minimal slack below each rebelay so if the rebelay fails it doesn’t create enough force to desheath my rope. I also use a gri gri backup and stay tied into the rope when jumaring. Thanks again! Love to hear feedback from the master himself!!!
So for really any aid route you’ll have a haul line. For solo aid the end of the haul line is attached to the anchor, so you rap down the haul line and then jumar back up your lead line and act as the follower after leading the pitch
thanks for your tips - i think the most important under us rope solo climber is to share our experience like you do and take it to make your one system safer - for that reason i have lots of films from others under playlist CH Rope Solo. Maby there are some stuff for you guys as well.
Screemer extension restricted by 1st bolt. Rather tension anchor on 1st bolt while keeping screemer extension free from being clipped above the screemer but clipping the screemer slacg in the 1st bolt. That way the anchor is tensioned in opposition but while taking a higher factor fal on a ripl the screemer can still extended freely but the rope can pulley over the 1st bolt.
I see your point, however, in the real world, you will have the first bolt much higher than this example, I was just limited by space, but good observation and definitely something to keep in mind.
Dope man, I’m curious have done your research on aid climbing beside from experience from resources like VDiff’s big wall course, piton Pete’s hooking up book and the like? Or did someone teach you? Just was curious how others got to this point
nice vid, thanks!. some points, though: maybe your anchor is a little too light (but i think it's for the purpose of the explanations) and works manly in only one direction (i'd rather build one that work on any direction). Instead of 1 backup knot, i tie 3 figure of 8 (as you do, they are cliped on the second belay loop). I don't use a micro trax -less weight- and the loops are smaller. the advange of have 3 backup knots, is that even in complicated situations, you sitll keep some in backup. plus a 8 is stronger than an overhand knot -in case of grigri failure.
Hey gene! Great to see you found my channel we have spoken on instagram before! The anchor was defintly just for demonstartion id make it way more bomb proof and if it a mulitpich having a mulitdirectionally is imperative in the case of a Fa 2 fall. I also alway usually will tye a new backup knot before siwtching over to a new one. My reasoning for using a traction is because it will catch faster and wont use the whole cache loop in the case the gri gri doesnt immedietly catch. Thansk!
@@climbingforlife1 Hi! i guessed so. but beleive me, if you have at least 2 backup knots, you allways have one in case of something goes wrong (redundancy, as you know, is smtg vital!!! ;-) ). on the other side, i use a gridlock like biner to tye those backup knot, as one day, a normal locking biner felt. for the grigri, the maillon is a nice idea but complicated to take in and off. i use a grivel clepsydra instead, and i've tied a 2mm cordelette to the grigri so that i can lose it. i'll make a vid of it to show you! cheers from catalonia! 😃🙃
I would just clove hitch the first piece, especially if I'm aiding. It will provide a little slip as well but also keep the anchor oriented in the upright position. Otherwise, thanks for the video!
Thank you for commenting! I cannot do this as it will completely take out all dynamic aspects that are in the anchor. (Extra rope and screamer). It also creates the problem of increasing the chance of a factor 2 fall! Thanks again!!!
Progress device this is pointless just clove the first piece. Back up knot isn’t gunna help if the grigri fails which won’t happen but then the micro traction will cut the rope, don’t need any of this get in your ladders and start moving just the grigri is good
Bruh first of all clove hitching the first piece is a terrible idea and increases the chances of a factor 2 by a lot. Not only does it do that but all removes any dynamic component of the system. Backup knot will help because even if the gri gri were to be completly removed from the system the knot will be there as an independent failsafe. The progress device is not there to provide any protection just to maintain the cache loop. The progress capture wont cut the rope because its not even oriented to catch a fall. Did you watch the whole video lol?
If you have never climbed an aid wall and think you would like to solo one, do not learn how from this video. Just for one of multiple examples, a "simple overhand" is not the correct knot for your backup. It is weaker than the two other reasonable alternatives and importantly will be impossible to untie if you fall on it. Ideally use an alpine butterfly for this, or figure eight. Clove hitch is also hard to untie and not as safe.
Overhand on a bite my friend. This knot is plenty strong to hold a fall. It is also a backup, not a main arresting knot. You can look through the comments and see plenty other people liking this technique. Many other people use this technique. This is my way of doing things and it is safe
![Sending 5.13c without a Belayer [How I Climb Alone]](/img/n.gif)
A lot of good in your video! In a short video I understand you Are limited to the content you can tackle. I would ask viewers to study multi-directional belay anchors and their uses for rope solo. Ask yourself: what if I do a factor 2 fall? What if I fall right after my first piece and this one blows? Also: ascending the rope suspended on a Kong duck can look like a great idea BUT if you have too much slack in the rest of the pitch above: your life depends on that single piece!!! When you rappel the pitch: prepare the rope so it is safe to reascend!!! Or you could die. Very important. Also I don’t like this use of the duck: there are ways to build so much tension in the system during a fall that you will have to cut the rope to get it back. Can you imagine how it could happen? I can. Also: you have 2 separate belay loops… my recommendation is for you to use them! (Clip the overhand to second loop for example). But for people without a second belay loop: make sure your harness is burly (not ultra ultra light) and that it is in great great shape! I like using a Petzl Ring Open to backup or replace my belay loops but that’s not what manufacturers recommend. Make sure you use a torque wrench if you go for it. Happy you share the stoke! See you around some day 😊
Thanks so much for the comment from the man himself! I am very careful about the problem of tension and if the long duck is placed correctly it will not create tention in a fall. I will use a ring for my belay loop as that’s way stronger thanks for the idea! As for the reascending problem, I make sure there is minimal slack below each rebelay so if the rebelay fails it doesn’t create enough force to desheath my rope. I also use a gri gri backup and stay tied into the rope when jumaring. Thanks again! Love to hear feedback from the master himself!!!
hi Yann! saying the same! ;-)
So many mistakes in your setup, specially with your anchor system.
Great video! 👍
Thanks!
for multipitch, do you rappel this same rope and unclip gear as you go down? or bring a second rope to rappel?
So for really any aid route you’ll have a haul line. For solo aid the end of the haul line is attached to the anchor, so you rap down the haul line and then jumar back up your lead line and act as the follower after leading the pitch
thanks for your tips - i think the most important under us rope solo climber is to share our experience like you do and take it to make your one system safer - for that reason i have lots of films from others under playlist CH Rope Solo. Maby there are some stuff for you guys as well.
Thanks for sharing!
Screemer extension restricted by 1st bolt.
Rather tension anchor on 1st bolt while keeping screemer extension free from being clipped above the screemer but clipping the screemer slacg in the 1st bolt.
That way the anchor is tensioned in opposition but while taking a higher factor fal on a ripl the screemer can still extended freely but the rope can pulley over the 1st bolt.
I see your point, however, in the real world, you will have the first bolt much higher than this example, I was just limited by space, but good observation and definitely something to keep in mind.
Dope man, I’m curious have done your research on aid climbing beside from experience from resources like VDiff’s big wall course, piton Pete’s hooking up book and the like? Or did someone teach you? Just was curious how others got to this point
Lots and lots of trial and error, watching tons of TH-cam vidoes, books, talking to people who solo aid, etc
nice vid, thanks!. some points, though: maybe your anchor is a little too light (but i think it's for the purpose of the explanations) and works manly in only one direction (i'd rather build one that work on any direction). Instead of 1 backup knot, i tie 3 figure of 8 (as you do, they are cliped on the second belay loop). I don't use a micro trax -less weight- and the loops are smaller. the advange of have 3 backup knots, is that even in complicated situations, you sitll keep some in backup. plus a 8 is stronger than an overhand knot -in case of grigri failure.
Hey gene! Great to see you found my channel we have spoken on instagram before! The anchor was defintly just for demonstartion id make it way more bomb proof and if it a mulitpich having a mulitdirectionally is imperative in the case of a Fa 2 fall. I also alway usually will tye a new backup knot before siwtching over to a new one. My reasoning for using a traction is because it will catch faster and wont use the whole cache loop in the case the gri gri doesnt immedietly catch. Thansk!
@@climbingforlife1 Hi! i guessed so. but beleive me, if you have at least 2 backup knots, you allways have one in case of something goes wrong (redundancy, as you know, is smtg vital!!! ;-) ). on the other side, i use a gridlock like biner to tye those backup knot, as one day, a normal locking biner felt. for the grigri, the maillon is a nice idea but complicated to take in and off. i use a grivel clepsydra instead, and i've tied a 2mm cordelette to the grigri so that i can lose it. i'll make a vid of it to show you! cheers from catalonia!
😃🙃
I would just clove hitch the first piece, especially if I'm aiding. It will provide a little slip as well but also keep the anchor oriented in the upright position. Otherwise, thanks for the video!
Thank you for commenting! I cannot do this as it will completely take out all dynamic aspects that are in the anchor. (Extra rope and screamer). It also creates the problem of increasing the chance of a factor 2 fall! Thanks again!!!
Progress device this is pointless just clove the first piece. Back up knot isn’t gunna help if the grigri fails which won’t happen but then the micro traction will cut the rope, don’t need any of this get in your ladders and start moving just the grigri is good
Bruh first of all clove hitching the first piece is a terrible idea and increases the chances of a factor 2 by a lot. Not only does it do that but all removes any dynamic component of the system. Backup knot will help because even if the gri gri were to be completly removed from the system the knot will be there as an independent failsafe. The progress device is not there to provide any protection just to maintain the cache loop. The progress capture wont cut the rope because its not even oriented to catch a fall. Did you watch the whole video lol?
If you have never climbed an aid wall and think you would like to solo one, do not learn how from this video. Just for one of multiple examples, a "simple overhand" is not the correct knot for your backup. It is weaker than the two other reasonable alternatives and importantly will be impossible to untie if you fall on it. Ideally use an alpine butterfly for this, or figure eight. Clove hitch is also hard to untie and not as safe.
Overhand on a bite my friend. This knot is plenty strong to hold a fall. It is also a backup, not a main arresting knot. You can look through the comments and see plenty other people liking this technique. Many other people use this technique. This is my way of doing things and it is safe