Your a genius!!!! Thanks for sharing. Give this man the automotive modification trick of the year award! I cleaned mine out about 3 months ago after trying to get my Chevy dealer to make good on the recall, but he said since it had 84k miles it was outside the warranty and thus not his problem. He then offered to do the fix for around $500. I watched a video that saves a lot of work by not removing the manifold but just breaking away from the head then using a mirror and 90 deg awl to clear the plugged port. It worked just fine but I cringe at the thought of doing that every 3/4 months. With this mod I can clean it every oil change. Thanks again! This is just another case where the private sector fixes the ills of the highly edumacated engineers.
Made a 3 hour job into a 15 minute job . I also added a small O ring on the screw and tighten it very gently. At 50k miles and a 2017 model and living in Florida mine was clear of any debris but I am glad to know it is OK. Backyard mechanics are the best. Thanks for the video.
Nice trick. I just did this and only took about 8 minutes. I drilled a 1/8 hole very slowly and only took like 4 seconds to get through. Then I used a paper clip to go inside and clear the inner hole. Three tips for anyone who want's to do this. - 1. find some short crews you think might fit before you drill. 2. Don't remove the cardboard paper shield on the intake, just slice down the middle with a knife where you need to drill and fold it out of the way. 3. Don't over tighten the screw you put back in, when it gets snug stop turning so you don't strip it out.
Hi I have been searching everywhere to find out what the torque is for the intake manifold bolts. Its almost impossible for some reason with google to find info on the verano. Anyone know the torque (ft/lbs&nm)??
Just confirming what everyone else said. I got a pan head screw #8 by 3/8. Used a 7/64 bit covered in grease. The plastic is not thick and you drill through it very fast. Used some bail wire to find the hole. The area is all 1” deep except the hole which is 1.75”. So very easy to find. I put a small o ring around the screw head just for kicks and screwed it in. Took maybe 30 minutes total but I went real slow. Easy preventative maintenance.
Update. Things are still fine. I pull the screw and clean the PCV orifice every few oil changes. The o ring broke so now I just use the bare screw. Good luck fellow shitty car owners.
This is a fantastic preventative maintenance fix, it worked just as you said. I made a small cut in the protective heatshield cloth-like material to access the spot to drill, and cleaned it off thoroughly. I used a sharp screw just to make a tiny start point in the right location so the drill bit didn't walk. Instead of a drill, I used a battery powered screwdriver with a 1/8" bit for slow, controllable revolutions. I put some thick grease on the end of the 1/8" bit to collect the shavings (that worked perfectly, thank you for that tip). I went slowly, so when the bit broke through, I stopped. I used a fairly big paperclip, bent straight to reach through and clear out the PCV hole inside the intake. You will know you hit the hole if you can sink the straight paperclip in about 1.75". I also sprayed some throttle body cleaner down the hole. A small flanged screw was perfect to seal the hole. This saved hours of labor that could have the potential to damage some other expensive parts. Followup to this great fix, it seems the mild oil consumption issue my car has had has also diminished for some reason. Oil consumption issues are common on the 2.4L ecotech. Again, thank you for this excellent video
I did this about a year ago … was sharing it on Facebook and wanted to circle back here to thank you as it has saved me a lot of grief … it’s now so easy to clean. I just pull the screw (I used a self tapping hex headed sheet metal screw) and blast it with some aerosol intake cleaner and it runs great again!
awesome, glad to hear it helped. My engine is still an oil sucking pig, the rings are stuck. Seems like I'm making headway in that department though. Lots of different ideas on getting them unstuck. I'm trying them all.
Followed your advice and it worked just like you describe here. A few years ago I had the rear seal blow out on my Equinox and found that it was caused by the plugged pcv orifice. To clear it, I pulled the intake forward enough to reach the back side with a pick. That was a lot of work and there was the risk of deforming or displacing the intake gaskets when reinstalling. Using your method is much easier and works just as well to clear it. I cut a slit in the insulator over the manifold and drilled a 7/64" access hole. Then I cleared the orifice with a small wire and plugged the hole with a #8 x 3/8" sheet metal screw. I put some gray gasket sealer on the threads, but the screw is tight and probably will seal itself. Now I can clear it once or twice a year and avoid disaster like happened before. Thank you very much.
the sealer on the threads is a little overkill, you would never be able to notice the amount of air that might possibly leak around the threads. There's a lot of air moves through an intake manifold. How many times have there been cracked vacuum lines and it may run a little bad or throw a light. That's a ton more air with a cracked hose than could ever get through those threads.
@@andujarjalepena4405 I agree. The screw fits very tight and I don't think I'll put anything on it next time. Now if I could find a good way to end that problem with the engine burning oil like you described in your comments from the past. I always think of the old saying "fill 'er up with oil and check the gas." Have you found a solution yet for yours?
@@fastbusiness I've been using the Valvoline restore and protect oil. It's supposed to clean the ring grooves. I did the $300 BG flush and it did nothing but make my wallet lighter. My daughter has the car and she said she is still putting a quart in every tank of gas. The engine is wet underneath now. Looks like both seals may be bad. I haven't seen the car in a couple months to check anything. The engine was not wet before the restore and protect. I'm not blaming the oil for this. I just can't get my daughter to come home so I can check anything. I don't know if it's leaking a quart of oil or pushing it past the rings at this point. The restore and protect is about $25 on amazon. That's the cheapest you will find it.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thanks for letting me know. I subscribed to your YT channel here, so if you think about it, give me an update on any progress you make on getting the oil burning stopped. I have the 2011 Equinox with the 2.4L ecotec and I have to check the oil every week. I think I have to add about a quart every 500 miles. In addition to that, the cat was ruined by the oil burning two years ago so I have a permanent P0420 code that makes the check engine light come on every few hundred miles. No need to install a new one if it will be fouled within a short time.☹
@@fastbusiness Try putting 1 gal of lacquer thinner in the gas tank with approx 8 gals gas (3/8-1/2 tank). I've had some success doing this but you have to run it on the highway and get it hot. Just puttering around town isn't going to clean it. Do it when you plan on taking a trip of 75-100 miles or so. Look for some youtubes on the subject. You can clean a cat if it's not broken up. I would never buy one if it weren't broken up or melty looking inside. Worst case would be to take it off and put it in a bucket of water with laundry detergent mixed in. I've never tried this but if your going to change it anyway might as well try and save a few hundred dollars by cleaning it first. Bolts will be easy enough to remove again if cleaning fails.
WOW, you saved me hours of labor. Drilled the hole exactly as you indicated. Took a bit to find the vent orifice because it was plugged so bad. Epoxy is setting now and tomorrow will be the test day. Thank you.
silicone would be better, you could pick it off and check the hole yearly. You will just have to drill through the epoxy again, no biggie. Peace of mind knowing it's clear.
I am laughing because is so simple and so hard to think at the same time!!!! You saved a lot of us a ton of time. Your tip is great and really appreciated. I watched a ton of videos of people spending a big effort as we usually would do to clean up this part. Thanks for sharing your tip!!!!
I tried it today. After having removed intake on other ones in the past, I would say this is a much easier process. Tested after and had a slight vacuum gauge reading on dipstick tube. Thanks Andujar Jalepena For the tip.
I had a 2016 LT, never had a problem. I lost in Hurricane Helene. Since it did me so well, I bought a 2016 LTZ last week. I checked the oil cap, it was blowing air out, it had the pcv problem. I ordered some gaskets, called the dealer to ensure they had an Intake Manifold in stock (in case it was beyond cleaning). I saw your video yesterday, changed the spark plugs, and while i was in there, drilled a 1/8th inch hole. Fished around until I found the pcv hole. Put everything back together, used a tiny screw, tested the oil cap... Suction! Thank you so much!! You saved me several unecessary hours of work, and future removals of the intake manifold.
WOW Thanks a 5 minute job, other than looking for a screw, just did it, ran bailing wire and mine was plugged, been running with oil cap loose, GM should be telling everyone this
Just read this and 15 minutes later I'm done! I knew there had to be an easier way than removing the manifold. Previously I had drilled a hole in the air intake plenum to spray seafoam in the intake while the engine was running and it seemed to work. But this is a much more sure way to clean it out at every oil change. I think I'll use a squirt of intake cleaner after the paper clip wiggle.
bought a '14 terrain recently, this is good to know. Doin a tune up on it tomorrow, im gona add this to the to do list while im under the hood. Thanks for the info! had no idea this was an issue.
Change that oil regularly. I would suggest 3,000 miles for local driven vehicle. It's not a bad engine, they just did some stupid things to it in different models that make it seem like the entire engine is a bad design. The low tension piston rings for a few years got stuck really easy. This causes massive oil consumption in certain cases (ask me how I know). If you have a well cared for engine (I did not), then keep taking good care of it. Do a PCV test every time you change the oil, it's very simple. Look for some other utubes on that. You do not want pressure building up in any engine. Will push the oil right past the seals very quickly.
Great idea there Sir I also took an and drilled mine out another 16th of an inch so that basically to compensate for the age of the vehicle it gets a little more PCV and it doesn't seem to affect the idle control at all or set any codes so as your engine gets older it makes more contaminants so I thought that was a good idea you don't have to do it but that's what I did
the orifice in the intake is 3/32. Some guys are increasing it to 1/8 inch. I don't see a need to do this if it only takes 5 minutes every 30,000 miles. Just poke around in there once you get the hole drilled. Should be straight in. Let me know how it went.
I got the vented oil cap. and I'm gonna drill this out too just in case. How did the catch can work? I read it would be too much oil to collect so it may not work well.
I saw a video yesterday where a guy put 5ounces of seafoam in his crankcase then drove for about 300 miles drained the oil and refilled and drove another 300 and checked his oil level.He was losing alot of oil every fillup ,and this helped alot and is very easy to do,and a cheap fix if it helps other people.
this didn't work for me. I'm trying the plugs out and pout 2 or 3 ozs of berrymans B12 down each hole and letting it set over night. Mine is pigging oil down. 250-300 miles and a quart low.
@@andujarjalepena4405 how did the piston soaks work? If it was just the rings, it should have helped. But in a lot of cases the small holes in the piston for oil control get clogged and once that happens, you have to remove the pistons and drill them out, which is terrible.
Piston soak didn't do anything. I'm going to try 2 rounds of BG products EPR. It's a last try. Some guys are saying the rings lose tension. They are probably low tension rings to begin with. I just think they are really stuck. You would have to get an engine pretty hot to de-tension the rings. My cylinder walls were beautiful after 125k miles. Still had the original hone marks. I'm not tearing down a 13 year old car engine because of the oil burning. I'll just sell it cheap and tell the people to keep an eye on the oil. What frustrates me is that it runs really good. No CEL or smoke. I do think compression is down but I haven't really done a proper check on it.
Awesome!! Thanks for getting back and letting me know. Glad I could help someone. I've been watching a lot of stuff about BG products cleaning up engines that burn oil because of stuck rings. It's a $300 kit but seems to work well. Of course if your car is only going to last a few more years like mine up here in the rust belt, then just buy a lot of oil and drive it into the ground. The oil may hurt the cat though.
@@andujarjalepena4405 I had oil consuption, 2011, 110,000 miles, pulled plugs, made a mixture Acetone 80% 20% tranny fluid filled set 24 hrs, than did it again fill, 24 hrs, than rotated over to prevent hydro lock, and drained, new oil filter ran 100 miles changed again so far oil consumption stopped 3,000 miles since
@@thomasmorris302 sounds like your oil control rings were stuck with carbon and guk. I see BG products also has an engine flush product (it's expensive $300 I think). Not sure if it cleans the ring grooves. If mine eats oil then I may just try your method, I like it. These are not bad engines, they just have to be taken care of with more than 10,000 mile oil changes. The PCV hole is just a horrible design from the beginning. Other 2.4 ecotecs in cars don't suffer this. It's just a bad design (PCV) for this model. This is my 4th ecotec powered car that I purchased with failed timing chain. Luckily all of them just had the valves bent and no piston damage. All of them were dirty inside from a lack of proper oil change intervals. I would say 5,000 miles is the limit for oil changes on an ecotec or any engine. That thing had to smoke a ton after the 80/20 mix was pushed into the exhaust and started. Did you have any problem with the cat? I would think it would affect it. Your post is very interesting. I like new ideas.
@@thomasmorris302 Mine is pigging oil down. 1 quart every 300 miles. Tried seafoam in the crankcase, nothing. Dumping Berrymans down the spark plug holes this time around. If that fails then I'm doing your method. May try Methyl Ethyl Keytone and trans fluid. MEK is a hotter thinner than lacquer. Evaporates really fast. Cleans parts really well though.
Thanks! Just did my access hole, super easy. Think I have the gummed up/stuck rings also (I removed the manifold 4 months ago and cleaned the PCV hole). If this doesn’t help, probably will have to do the Valvoline restore and protect, too, as mine is gobbling a quart of oil per gas tank at this point). Let me know if valvoline starts helping or not!?
I actually know my cylinder walls were in perfect shape because I had to have the head rebuilt. No scoring at all, looked like almost new cylinder walls. The BG products usually help but didn't in my case. After conversations with a shop that does these all the time, he said that 1 or 2 out of 10 don't unstick. I'm hoping the slow approach with Valvoline will help. I just want to sell the car at this point because I don't need it but I won't stick anyone with a problem like this. If someone can only afford a 3,500 car then I won't sell them something that may blow up in a couple tankfuls of gas because they won't check the oil. My daughter had this car at college and she wouldn't check it. I harped on her constantly about the importance. We as a society just don't check oil anymore. I'll try and remember to come back to this post and let you know. The car sits a lot now that I replaced it with another car for my daughter.
It's been very frustrating but a quart of oil every tankful is better than a car payment. My daughter has the car and she said it has gotten better but she is also driving less now. I'm surprised it hasn't affected the cat yet. I'll just throw a gallon of lacquer thinner in to clean it up if it does. Has never thrown a light.
@@dosgos I've poured everything down those plug holes trying to get them unstuck. I've beat on that engine trying to get it hot and boil out the rings, literally put it in 3rd gear and ran it over 4,000 rpms for over an hour and half on the highway. Nothing changed, just beat the whiz out of it. Valvoline may be helping, not sure yet.
🎉holy cannolie so easy , took longer to get the drill , bit and a screw ! I used a large torch tip cleaner and BINGO ! I have vacuum at the pcv hose spigot again
If it were to suck any air around the threads, the amount would be so minute that it would never have an affect. Screws generally stay in plastic but if you wanted to silicone it in, that would probably be for peace of mind, but it wouldn't hurt.
Did it. Cranked it up n spint it round da block QUIETLY. I was like timing chain, take off valve cover and clean the lil oil port then take off the oil pan n clean the oil pick up screen.
TSB:19-NA-021 also involves removal of the valve cover which I'm pretty sure involves cleaning out coked up vertical passage up through the head and into the valve cover. Maybe be a good idea to pull the oil cap and blow some regulated air pressure or smoke through that horizontal hole passage to hear or see it come out the valve cover, other wise you need to remove the valve cover and de- crud that passage too😂
I will do its.Just take a more or less in between up screw positiion by outside and open small hole , aply cleaner and can use injection nedlee unlock internal hole .. so very easy Tks in advance
Problem is just because that port isn't clogged the pcv porting inside the intake manifold can be clogged down stream . The pcv is ported to each of the four intake runners. If you spray carb cleaner in the center PCV port you should see it exit into each of the four intakes . Then you will know the pcv system is free of any obstructions
That is correct, the 4 intake runners pull through the tiny hole first. The hole is the first thing to see dirty air from the crankcase. I guess the 4 larger intake runners could possibly clog first. There have been reports of the runners being clogged. I just cleaned mine and didn't take notice if they were clogged. I know from the second Equinox I purchased that the hole was clogged and once I did this procedure the crankcase was pulling vacuum.
Thanks for the video, good idea. But to make this hole you still need to remove your manifold. Good thing is that you need to do it once. I don't think to try to guess the right place and drilling from the outside is the good idea
Use a 1/8 bit on the outside. Plastic is probably 3/16" thick, you will find the other hole. It is just an open chamber. If you want to go through all the aggravation of removing it, then go ahead. It is not necessary to do. Just go through the outside and clean. You will find the orifice.
Just because the hole isn't plugged doesn't mean the channels to the four runners aren't. It needs to be taken off and cleaner sprayed into the hole to verify no blockages. If there are no blockages the cleaner will spray out of the side around the opening of each runner. The TSB doesn't tell you to do this, it just says to clean out the hole.
Do the test for the PCV if it whistles it's clear. The four runners leading to the intake all suck through the little hole. The hole is the first restriction in the PCV system. It's probably the smallest restriction also (I haven't cut an intake apart to verify). Look at the many, many, many people that have had success just doing this simple task. I don't think there has been a person yet that hasn't been successful. If you want to pull the intake manifold, risk snapping the dipstick tube off, then go right ahead but don't discourage others from doing this. It's so simple a child can do it and the reward is wonderful when you hear the whistle (PCV test) and the crankcase isn't building pressure any more.
Your video helped me immensely. Thank you!! We have a 2015 Equinox with 185K miles and most of its life has been in Arizona which maybe saved us from the disasters others in cold climates experienced. I performed this o day and it worked out just fine. But when removing the oil cap while idling, there still is t suction from the hole, it’s still pushing out air as well as some oil vapor I. The form of faint smoke. It’s slight though. Any suggestions as to where I can begin looking to troubleshoot the lack of suction?
Your going to see oil vapor push out when the cap is off. That tiny orifice can't possibly produce enough vacuum to over come that. Try the PVC test for equinox found in another video. I believe you pull the hose off the side of the intake runner and hold your thumb over it while running. It should build vacuum in the line and start to whistle. If this test fails you may have a cracked hose or worse yet, the passages leading to each runner are clogged and the intake will need to be taken off. Do the test first, look for the easy stuff (I.E. cracked hoses). I'm guessing if you got the inner hole cleared it will be just fine. Also, if it's running for 30 seconds or so, you remove the oil fill cap and there's pressure pushing out, that means it's clogged or the pcv system is not working. I had a BMW that would do this. Let me know how the test worked. Building pressure in the engine will push the oil right past the seals.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thanks for the response. I’ll give the test a try. I’m accepting the fact I should just do a complete job and remove the intake and clear the side ports off the center one and at least I’ll know for certain it’s all clear. I can’t imagine we will keep this thing too much longer as it is. What a mess so many of us purchased huh? Thanks again.
if the test shows the pvc system is working, you're golden. Every month you drive it is $400 payment that stays in your pocket and not some dealers pocket. @@kamikazi777
I don't think it would help, it's a little difficult because the passages leading to each intake runner go sideways out of the chamber you are drilling into. I actually thought about drilling a large hole, maybe 3/8" and then you would be able to shoot the cleaner sideways into these passages, then use a rubber tire patch over the hole. Remember, there is a vacuum at that point so it would actually be sucking the patch tighter to the intake. I wouldn't recommend anyone do this though unless they had a spare intake laying around in case something went really badly. I wouldn't drill the inner hole any larger for any reason. It is a specific size to create a controlled inner vacuum leak to suck the pressure out of the crankcase so you don't blow the seals out. Any larger could cause a lean condition. I have heard some guys are drilling it from 3/32" (stock size) to 1/8". It's a very small amount. Probably wouldn't hurt and the computer would adjust, but why do it? You can clean the orifice while the oil is draining every 2 or 3 oil changes. Takes 30 seconds to pull the screw and stick a paper clip in there. Hope this helps.
yes, if you are having issues with PCV and the intake is similar. Do a pcv test first, don't assume it's clogged. Just do a quick search on your car for the test. It's very easy.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thanks for replying back. I just purchased the verano 4 months ago and noticed the excessive oil consumption. No check engine light is on and it is running good. I will do what you suggest. Thanks
I've been having major oil consumption problems on my Equinox also. The piston rings get stuck and don't push against the cylinder walls. I have tried a lot of different things to get them unstuck. I know it's the rings because there is a new head on it and the PCV is working great. When I put the new head on, the cylinder walls looked beautiful so I know they aren't worn. My latest trial is BG products EPR. If your ecotec had sub standard oil changes, this could be the problem for you also. I'm using a quart every 300 miles. No lights on. Very frustrating. I want to sell the car but I won't stick anyone with this problem. @@geraldhmcmasterjr4704
No need to really do that. The hole is very small (3/32"). You can go to some other videos to see how to test the PCV system. If it's working, then there's no need to go any further. As some have stated, there are channels leading to each intake runner to pull vacuum into the chamber. If they are clogged also, probably best to pull the intake and clean them. If you're not building pressure in the crank case then you are good to go. Pulling the intake is a 3 hour pain for the average back yard mechanic. The oil filler tube is the worst part. No real good way to deal with it but to bend the crap out of it to get the intake out. All that being said, just keep the orifice clean and all should be fine.
@@andujarjalepena4405 I was just thinking ahead if those other channels were clogged either trying to blow out the gunk or possibly drill large enough hole in intake to run a bent wire through them since they seem to line up. And then seal the larger hole. All to avoid the intake removal. I guess I'll see if just clearing the orifice is all that's needed first. Thanks for the tip!
@@SGT_Tow could try a blast of carb cleaner instead of compressed air and hope some of it goes sideways. I would think you could get into trouble with too much pressure from a compressor. Nice thing about this is that if it's still clogged, you could do your method and silicone a small patch over the hole. I would probably just yank it if it were that clogged. Good luck
Since you removed the intake manifold, instead of drilling this 1/8 hole, can you widen the hole on the manifold with 1/4 in drill bit, so it won't ever clog up?
NO. The hole is a size that regulates the vacuum to a certain amount. Some guys are drilling it to 1/8". If you make it too big, it will cause too much vacuum and possibly cause other issues like throwing codes or not running correctly. This hole is technically a controlled vacuum leak. Too much could change the air/fuel ratio and richen the mixture. burn more gas and clog up the catalytic converter. It's a crappy system that GM designed, but we are stuck with it.
sorry I never got back to you. Do not drill it any bigger. Some guys are going to 1/8" with success. The hole is sized so that there is only a certain amount of suction. 1/4" hole may be too much and throw a light.
How do u clean the orfices going to the chambers?? Wouldnt throttle body cleaner just go in the intake not cleaning the other pathways? Please advise thanks!
This just cleans the problematic main orifice, If you clean this and do the PCV test, you're done. No need to take the intake off and clean the pathways to each runner. There are many other videos showing a test to see if the PCV system is working. It's a simple test. I think with the equinox you just pull the hose leading to the side of the intake and hold your thumb over it, if it starts to whistle, you're golden. Good luck.
You are drilling into an open cavity. Anywhere close will be fine, once you get through to the cavity, you just poke around with a paper clip or wire till you hit the hole and clean it out. Look at some of the other comments, many have done it. It should be in a Chevy bulletin on these models. Red Monkey butt has some very good tips.
@@stevebystrom2322 it’s very easy. Just poke around in there after you drill through. It will go through very fast. Maybe 4 seconds of drilling. Then poke around with a paper clip. May not find it right away if it’s plugged solid. Do the pcv test before and after.
Is this method safe if you live up north? I’m concerned that leaving the screw in might crack the plastic intake manifold during cold and hot temperatures?
you will be fine, just pick any screw that isn't too big. I'm in the Pittsburgh area. Even if something like a crack would appear (and it won't), just clean it and silicone over it. This wouldn't happen unless you used a 1/4" screw in a tiny hole. You could literally cut a piece of the intake out and glue a patch over the area (Don't do that). Plastic intakes get broken all the time and guys get the proper glue and fix them. It's not a high stress part.
@@josephmojica8859 if the PCV system is working correctly you really shouldn't need the catch can but it couldn't hurt. Did you get the whistling after doing the test?
Had ruff idling issues just recently removed the intake manifold to clean out the intake valves. They were pretty clogged issue is gone. I advise anyone and everyone to have their intake valves clean, especially with these type of GDI engines.
it's part of the pcv system. There's a plastic tube that runs on top of the valve cover towards the oil fill neck. I will have to pull my cover off to see exactly what it hooks to after that. It may just be a breather on the valve cover. I'm not sure.
*** How can we spray cleaner into our drilled hole, ensuring it sprays into the two arcs that lead to the 4 intake runners? From the plastic orifice baffle area built into the intake (the plastic block that leads to the orifice), where are the inlets for the two arcs that we would want to direct the spray straw?? MORE DETAIL - By removing the intake, one can easily spray cleaner into the the orifice and see it spray out of the 4 intake runners (if they are clear). Some have reported these passages to the 4 runners were blocked, so the passages might be worth cleaning. However, by not removing the intake and spraying cleaner into our drilled hole, I doubt much spray will migrate to the 4 runners (the cleaner just might help clean the orifice, the plastic orifice baffle area, and maybe some of the engine block passages). How are the passages plumbed? It seems there is one passage that goes from the orifice block up the intake in an arc leftwards to ONE space between runners 1 & 2 (so "spray" from the orifice exits from the left and right of runners 1 & 2, respectively. And a second arc that does the same on the right side (between runners 3 & 4). BTW - If we look carefully at the intake mounted on the car, maybe we can see hints in the plastic of where the two arcs are running.
You are correct that others have reported the 4 channels leading to each intake runner have been blocked. The 4 runners supply vacuum to the orifice, so the orifice is the first thing to get hit with all the vapor and such from the cylinder head orifice that leads to the valve train area. My engine was not well taken care of and that's why the chain stretched and slipped at only 120k. The main thing is to keep pressure from building up in the engine and pushing the oil out of the main seals. If you get the small orifice cleaned out and do your PVC test, it should be giving you the small controlled vacuum leak through the orifice to keep negative pressure in the crank case. If you get the hole cleaned and still creating pressure in the case, you will have to remove the intake and clean the 4 channels. You could try running the engine with the hole open and spraying carb cleaner in the outer hole that you drilled, it should get sucked into the intake through the channels.That might be a way to try and flush the channels. Up here in the rust belt I was terrified the dipstick tube was going to snap. You really have to bend it pretty far to get the intake out. The tube is pressed in the block and would be a real pita to try and get the broken part out of the block. I would clean the orifice like I've shown and do the PCV test. If it's sucking, you are golden. Good luck!! Many have had great success doing this.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thank you. We thought about bending the red spray tube by inserting a wire, gently heating, bending to 90*. Then blindly poking for the 2 holes that go to the intake runners. I think we will give your idea a try first as it is so easy. This was a great video btw.
@@andujarjalepena4405Spraying cleaner into the smallish PCV hole at "intake #1" , cleaner flows out of the hole at "intake#2". So I think the 2 intake runner's PCV holes are directly linked, which seems clever. I saw that demonstration on a Mexican video late last night called "válvula pcv limpieza equinox 2010 Chevrolet", at about the 10:40 time mark. Of course the tiny orifice that gets clogged is not clever engineering.
@@andujarjalepena4405Follow-up. We did an Italian tune up for 30 minutes, after warming up the engine. We brought the engine past 5k rpm several times but didn't beat the daylights out of it. A few days later, we checked there was some vacuum pulling the oil cap. And some vacuum pulling at the dipstick too. We disconnected the rubber hose at the left-front of the valve cover and plugged it while the car was idling warm; there was a whining sound (we read that indicates the PCV system is working). The noise wasn't that loud tbh. We removed our new screw from the front of the intake manifold; when we covered that with a finger, we noticed a lot of vacuum pulling our skin off (that got uncomfortable). Inserted the CRC straw (with a sealing rubber washer) slightly into our new hole, started the car, and made several very brief sprays. The engine immediately stumbled for a second after each spray. Tried that at idle and at 2000 rpm. Hoping the CRC cleaner was sucked in the passages between the new hole and the 4 intake runners for clearing any intake crud.
What about the possible clogged tubes that pass between the pcv and the cylinder intakes? If it was this easy a fix you don't think GM would have changed it a decade ago?
The orifice is the smallest point that clogs very easily. The passages going to each runner are somewhat larger. Yes, they can clog if the engine is really dirty. After doing this simple cleaning, test your PCV if it is working (other videos). If it is, you're golden. If it's not working, then all four passages are clogged (unlikely but possible) and the intake must be removed to clean these passages. If your engine is that dirty then you probably have other issues also, like stuck rings, worn valve seals or just a ton of un-cared for miles. The orifice is also the first point of entry for the internal engine pressure you are trying to evacuate. Once it clogs, there's nothing getting to the runners. Look at other comments on this video, lots of happy Ecotec owners.
@@wayneh8767 you will be fine. There’s a cavity you’re drilling into. Once you get through just poke around. The inner hole may be plugged. You’ll know when you get through
The PCV system sucks the pressure out of the crankcase. If the hole clogs, it builds pressure in the crankcase and pushes your motor oil past the main seals. It ruins the seals and causes massive oil leaks. Without oil the engine blows up. That's the costly damage. It also helps with emissions. "PCV" stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation.
I think it's more in the intake design than anything. Most ecotecs don't have this problem. It's a really good engine if people would just change their oil. The rings sticking is a product of a lack of maintenance. The factories spec out these ridiculous oil change intervals of 10-15 thousand miles sometimes. Dirty old oil starts to clog everything as you would expect. I'm still fighting an oil consumption problem. Just can't get them un-stuck on mine.
Thanks. I was hoping perhaps GM solved the ring problem. I will be doing the intake mod and new timing chain before it goes in. Hope for the best! @@andujarjalepena4405
@@andujarjalepena4405 From what I've heard, the rings lose tension because of a bad design, so the only true fix is to overhaul it. Apparently they even have a redesigned piston too.
That would explain my oil loss if that's true. I will research this. This post deals with the clogged PCV hole that wreaks havoc on the main seals. Causes pressure in the crank case. I know the oil consumption in my case is going by the rings. Everything is new on top. Cylinders looked beautiful when I pulled the head. Still had the hone marks so it's either stuck rings or they have lost tension like you said. Thanks for the info.@@grabasandwich
Just put grease on the drill bit, the small amount of shavings will stick right to it. The chips always come up when drilling. Also, I wouldn't worry if a chip or two of small plastic went in. If you see the carbon build up on many of the newer engines around the intake valves, that stuff breaks free all the time. Gets sucked in and blown out
I enlarged the hole in the intake manifold to 3/16 in. as suggested by this other dude. But that caused some bad whisling. When you drill to 1/8 in. do you get that whisling?
The original hole inside is 3/32 (slightly less than 1/8"). Does it whistle after you plug the outer hole? That's odd. I guess it's possible for any hole to whistle. Usually a whistle indicates an intake leak from the inside of the engine to the outside of the engine. I wouldn't think an interior whistle would be audible. Check the screw you plugged the outer hole first. Make sure it's not leaking around there.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Sorry I was not clear. I did not drill the outer hole like you suggest yet. I couple of month ago I only enlarged the inside hole to 3/16" to prevent it to get clogged according to another video and the whisling began. Enlarging the inside hole to 1/8" should prevent it to get clogged but I don't want the whisling. I have a new intake manifold I want it right before instlling it.
@ADRIANJORDAN-fv3eg the whistling is due to the hole being too large. The factory size hole is set at a specific specification for the correct vacuum, too large of a hole will cause it to whistle. Trust me this happened to me and I had to buy a whole new manifold to stop the whistling.
The hole that needs cleared out in this video is in the PCV system. It's the smallest point and usually clogs first. When it clogs, the engine builds pressure and pushes your oil out of the lower main seal. There are other videos to show how to test if the system is working properly, it's very easy. If it's not getting proper suction this hole is usually the culprit.
@@andujarjalepena4405 ahhh ok. Thanks for replying and also explaining. Im going to have and do this process because my wife equinox is burning oil with no leaks, or exhaust color out the back yet and has an exhaust smell in the car. Im taking steps in process of elimination to try and figure things out.
@@El_LeChErO91 The piston rings may be stuck like mine. I bought mine with the timing chain slipped. Cylinder walls looked beautiful. New head and chains and the thing runs perfect. Swallows oil like a pig, going right past the rings. 1 quart every tankful. No lights, no smoke, no leaks. Seems for about 3 or 4 years GM put low tension piston rings in these engines. If the oil wasn't changed often enough (before the recommended interval) they would get clogged and stick the rings in the pistons. I've tried every kind of swill thrown down the cylinders to unstick them. Even did a BG $300 flush. Nothing is helping. I've just resigned myself to throwing a quart of oil in every 400 miles. Others have had luck with the various techniques, I'm just one of the few that nothing seems to have worked. It's cheaper to put a quart of oil in than get another car payment. I'm driving it till it dies. Do the PCV hole clean out, or at least do the test. You don't want to start pushing oil past the seals. engine will be gone in a few miles if that happens.
It couldn't hurt, do the PCV test first. If your engine was taken care of, it should be O.K. I bought two of Equinoxs from auction, both were clogged. If it clogs, you will build pressure in the crankcase and push the oil right out the main seals. Quite an expensive repair, especially if all the oil pushes out.
no on both. You will have to remove or pull back the insulation. Don't worry if it rips or breaks off. I think it's only there for noise suppression. I didn't even put the plastic engine cover back on, It's just there to pretty up the engine bay like much of the worthless plastic. Scotty Kilmer takes all that stuff and throws it in the trash. I kinda agree with him on that. This is literally a 5 minute job once you get the plastic out of the way.
1/8" hole. Just drill through the first layer into the cavity. Should only take a couple seconds. Get a small paper clip and poke the inner hole out. You can put a screw in or a dab of silicone over the hole and let it dry before starting. It's very easy. The inner hole that is clogged is 3/32". It is smaller than 1/8".
don't know if it's necessary, This was a stupid design on the Equinox intake manifold PCV system. Do the PVC test for your car, should be easy to find one on YT. If it's working properly, no action is needed. I'm not familiar with the 2.2 in your car.
@andujarjalepena4405 Drilled mine out today. i might have drilled a little high cause I'm in the cavity, but can't find the PCV orifice with my wire. Any recommendations on how to proceed? how big can i drill this and be safe?
The hole size really doesn't matter, just so long as you plug it when done. It's just an access hole. You could even put something like a tire patch over the hole. You'll be fine. Just try not to drill the inner hole. That is sized by the factory to allow a certain amount of vacuum. Don't panic. Even a dab of silicone and let it dry for a couple hours. Remember, it will be trying to suck in whatever you put over it.
Thanks for this I'll give it a try!! Is the cavity pretty large behind the hole? Is it dead center or slightly to the right when looking at it form the front of the car?
It's a chamber that has channels leading to all 4 intake runners to draw vacuum from. If you drill approx where I show, you can poke around with a 3/32 drill bit or a piece of tie wire to clean out the orifice. I haven't cut one apart to see just how big the chamber is when you drill through to the inside. It's not very thick t drill through
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thank you! I was worried I had to be dead on but it sounds like there is a bit of space in there from the way you describe it. Going to do this since it was a PITA to pull the intake manifold and clean it last time
Fixing to do this to my wife's car that's having oil consumption issues at 100k miles. Nervous about threading a screw into the manifold and it cracking in cold weather since I'm in northern Ohio
the plastic threads very easily. Just pick a screw that is slightly larger than the bit. If you are that worried, just clean the surface with brake clean and put a dab of silicone sealer over the hole and let it dry. You could also put a small piece of inner tube patch on the hole. A piece of duct tape would hold up for awhile also till the heat dried it up.
Mine is a 2013 and eats oil, for a few years they put low tension piston rings in these engines. That coupled with the inept PCV system causes the gook to build up and stick the rings. I've been going crazy trying to get them un stuck. Poured every type of cleaner down the spark plug holes, even did a $300 BG flush. Still using tons of oil. Cleaning the PCV hole has helped a lot of people with their oil consumption. I've got a turd that wasn't cared for with regular oil changes. I'm trying Valvoline restore and protect oil now as a last resort. Valvoline says it will clean the ring grooves. Even if Valvoline doesn't work, it's a quart of oil every 400 miles. Still cheaper than a car payment. Just throw a quart in every tank (that's what I'm using)of gas and drive it till the wheels fall off.
So I did this today and it was super easy .I put a little seafoam in the throttle body to clean that too.I am waiting for the RTV to cure for 24 hours.Of course it was clogged and I have two of these shit cars so I have to do the wifes also.I have two vented oil caps comming in the mail and Im going to use drygas in the winter every other tank of gas to keep the moisture out of the fuel line and the whole system.Its cheap insurance.I also sprayed seafoam in to the port before I put the screw back.This way saved me alot of time and money .How much would this cost if I took this to the dealer?.
Dealers probably won't do this, they would charge at least $500 to pull the intake and clean the hole. You won't be sorry you did this. Doubt you need the vented cap once the PCV system is working properly. The caps may set a CEL but I don't know. It's worth a try. If it sets a CEL just put the old cap back on. The vented cap may also blow oil mist all under the hood and make a mess. Keep us posted on the results.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Ok thanks I have heard that other people get the vented caps to be safe but I am going to be checking the oil level every 1000 miles cause that is very critical and change the oil more often.
Excessive oil consumption, oil leaks. What happens if it clogs, is the crankcase builds pressure, that pressure has to go somewhere. It will push oil past the piston rings or valve seals and burn or worst case, a major oil leak from the main crank seal, the oil pushes out and the engine seizes. There are some simple tests you can do to see if the PCV system is working properly. Just search on Ytube. If you took excellent care of your engine, you really shouldn't have a problem, but the Terrain/Equinox are well known for clogging that tiny (3/32") hole. It's a major design flaw.
Run vehicle for a while, shutoff, pull PCV out of airbox, remove oil cap, put a rag over PVC and blow hard, if vapor comes out of oil fill hole there is no clog...
ATTENTION-----ATTENTION- THESE WERE ALL MY SYMPTOMS AND THE THINGS I REPLACED ON THE CAR BEFORE I SEEN THIS VIDEO AND SOLVED MY PROBLEMS. I HAVE A 2012 2.4L ENGINE CHEVY EQUINOX EXACT ENGINE AS THIS ONE. MY VEHICLE WAS WAS SHAKING AND ROCKING AT A COMPLETE STOP AT THE RED LIGHT, ITS WAS JERKING SO BAD AFTER DRIVING FOR A WHILE THAT I HAD TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL EVERY TIME A CAME TO A RED LIGHT. I REPLACED THE FOLLOWING THINGS: UPSTREAM AND DOWNSTREAM O2 SENSORS----PURGE VALVE----AIR INTAKE SENSOR- REPLACED THE LITTLE U PLASTIC TUBE GOING TO THE AIR BOX, THE ONE THATS FILLED WITH WATER SOMETIMES. I REPLACE THE THE THROTTLE BODY WITH SENSOR ON IT--------I REPLACED THE FUEL CAP AND THE OIL CAP--- I USE CAT CLEAN AND OIL ADDITIVES--- I CHANGE THE TWO ENGINE AND INTAKE VALVES THAT SIT ON TOP OF THE ENGINE (GREY AND WHITE ). I DID MUCH MORE BUT WHEN I SEEN THIS VIDEO, I SAID TO MY SELF, ITS NO WAY IN HELL THIS IS MY PROBLEM AT ALL, NO WAY!!!! IT WAS THE FOURTH OF JULY AND IVE HAD THIS VEHICLE FOR 5 MONTHS NOW AND ITS BEING DOING THIS SINCE I BOUGHT IT. I HAD CONVINCED MYSELF THAT IT WAS JUST THE TIMING CHAIN THAT HAD SKIPPED, LIKE THE ONES YOU SEE ON TH-cam, BUT IT WAS THE 4TH OF JULY I WASN'T DOING ANYTHING SO I SAID TO MYSELF, LET ME RUN INSIDE A GET MY DRILL. I GOT THE SMALLEST SCREW I COULD FIND, I FOUND TWO THEN THE LITTLEST DRILL BIT AND I DRILL A HOLE IN THE AREA I SEEN IN THE VIDEO AFTER REMOVING ALL THAT PLASTIC AIR INTAKE CRAP, IT TOOK ME 2 SECONDS BUT I DIDNT FIND THE HOLE, SO I HAD TO DRILL ANOTHER HOLE UNDER THE FIRST I DID CASE IT WAS TO HIGH FROM THE HOLE INSIDE THE ENGINE MANIFOLD. BUT THE SECOND HOLE WAS PERFECT SO I TOOK SOME CARB CLEANER WITH THE STRAW AND SHOT THE CLEANER ALL IN THAT NEWLY DRILLED HOLE, CARB CLEANER SPLASHED EVERYWHERE CAUSE OF THE TWO HOLES I MADE. AFTERWARDS I TOOK A PAPERCLIP AND WENT THROUGH THE DRILLED HOLE TIL I FELT THE OTHER HOLE INSIDE THE MANIFOLD, WIGGLE IT IN AND OUT THEN SPRAYED SOME MORE CARB CLEANER IN IT AND TOOK MY TWO LITTLE SCREWS AND SCREWED THE TWO DRILLED HOLE SHUT. I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER AND IT TOOK ME LESS THAN 12 MINS, ENJOYED THE HOLIDAY FOOD AND DIDNT THINK OF IT AT ALL. I JUST WANTED TO SAY I DID EVERYTHING POSSIBLE BEFORE I LET THE DEALER FIX THE TIMING CHAIN. BUT WITH MY AMAZEMENT THE NEXT DAY. I STARTED THE CAR AND I FERLT SOMETHING DIFFERENT, YOU JUST COULD FEEL IT. YUP, GO TO FIND OUT THAT ALL THESE PROBLEMS MY VEHICLE WAS HAVING WAS BECAUSE OF THIS SMALL PIN SIZE HOLE THE ENGINE WAS FIGHTING TO GET AIR FROM. THIS HOLE WAS PLUGGED UP WITH CARBON JUST AS THE VIDEO DESCRIBES . SO THATS MY STORY, I HOPE THAT YOU ALL CAN USE THIS TO SAVE YOU A LOT OF GUESSING AS I DID. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ MY WALL OF LOUD TEXT, LOL
just did this on my 2016 Terrain. at 80k mine was still clean but I thought it was plugged because of blowby when I opened the oil filler cap. does anybody know why it feels like you have a little blowby escaping from the oil filler cap. then, when you place the cap on it feels like it's getting sucked down like it is under vacuum.
Cap should get sucked down a little, PCV system seems to be working fine on yours. There's always going to be oil vapor if the engine is hot with the cap off. As long as you are not consuming lots of oil, you should be fine. These engines don't like long oil change intervals, screws them all up. I would say 5,000 mile max if it's highway driven, 3000 if it's a city car. They have low tension piston rings that stick if you don't change the oil often enough. I just did a BG dynamic flush on mine last night to try and free the rings up. Mine is choking down a quart every tank full of gas (about 325 miles).
That's what I would change it at with this engine. Just my personal feelings. GM says 7,500-10,000 with synthetic oil and 3,000-5,000 with conventional. My other cars and trucks go to 5,000. Having to go through the aggravation of having stuck piston rings and trying to get them freed up has been miserable. I purchased this car at auction and not running. I knew it dumped the timing chain and destroyed the valves, this is the third or fourth one car I've purchased like this. I purchased a remanufactured head and put it on. The cylinder walls were beautiful, still had the factory hone marks after 120k so I knew the engine was good. It runs perfect now with no smoke or lights on, just guzzles oil as others have the same problem. The flipping low tension piston rings getting stuck. I'm hoping the BG engine cleaning does the trick. It's expensive at $300 but if it frees them up, it's well worth it. I wouldn't even sell it to anyone if it's using that much oil. I won't rip people off.
Daughter has the car at college so I'm not sure if the BG cleared the problem yet. It's only been a couple hundred miles. I was surprised how dirty the BG cleaning oil was being that it had a new head, timing chains and cleaned valve cover. I have hope though.
Not sure you need it on every ecotec. The Equinox intake is just a screwed up design. Look at some other videos on testing to see if the PCV system is working. It's very easy. If yours is working you don't have to worry.
That's a totally different intake manifold. Your engine may not have the problem. It's pretty specific to this GM platform. Search a PCV test for your car and test that first. You may be good to go.
you can test the PCV system by pulling the hose from the valve cover and seeing if there's vacuum. If there's vacuum, the PCV system is fine. I've never heard of anyone having performance issues. The PCV if not working could cause you to push the oil out of the lower main seal and blowing your engine. You can also start the engine and let it idle, pull the oil filler cap off. If it has pressure pushing out, it's plugged for sure. If there is vacuum when you pull the cap the PCV system would seem to be working.
If you used a paper clip, it may go in 3/8" and hit the other side. If you poke around a bit and clean the hole out the paper clip will go in an inch or more.
@@raypalermo1603 it's clear. If it's still plugged and you are building pressure you will have to remove the intake and clean the passages leading to each runner. If you have negative pressure (vacuum) you are golden. Your engine would have to be really bad to plug all the passages leading to the intake runners.
A thought, an idea that I have not done nor looked into BUT could you "rattle the rings loose" (prior replies of yours stated that your rings were stuck, I'm assuming full of carbon)? Very low octane(83)/cheap gas in the mountains (I-80, Wyoming?) in a vehicle under load could/would do that (due to detonation?) to an engine that previously did NOT burn oil -- was a very bad thing; people were warned about it if they were lucky). I used a bunch of question marks and parenthesis and quotes to cover my azz since I have no personal experience of doing so. Maybe a "old-timer local" will chime in, I live east of the Mississippi River.......
These years Ecotec engines are notorious for sticking the low tension rings if you weren't diligent about oil changes. In reference to "rattling them loose", don't know what you mean by that but I did run it on the highway for an hour and a half at 4,000 rpms or more. I think the Valvoline restore and protect engine oil may be working. I haven't seen my daughter in a month but she says it's using less oil. I also did many piston soaks with different chemicals, Did a BG products $300 flush. Nothing even slowed it down. Holding my breath for the restore and protect.
All that does is release the crankcase pressure, which is good but doesn't fix the problem. This gets the PCV system working again. Why have all the oil vapor blowing all over the top of your engine? Will make things messy. Probably get oil vapor on the windshield also. Best to have things working properly. .
there are many videos showing how to take the manifold off. I'm trying to save you from having to do this by drilling a hole and cleaning without taking it off.
If you go all the way threw you destroyed the intake. It is supposed to breath internally with the ports for the airflow the big ports. Dont do it threw. Its not supposed to go threw.
there is a hole on the other side of the chamber that gets clogged. Just drill through the top side, you will feel the drill go through then stop. The chamber is 1/4 to 1/2" deep. You would have to be drilling like a maniac not to stop after you go through the top. It's only plastic and drills very easily. Lots of guys are enlarging the inner hole from 3/32" (which is factory) to 1/8". I don't recommend doing that but they have posted positive results. Drill your top hole 3/32", same size as the inner orifice. It will drill through in 3 seconds with a low speed drill. Poke around with a small paper clip till you find the clogged hole. The second one I did on another Equinox was really clogged, it was tough to find but was almost a straight shot. Just hardened gook in the hole. You ultimately want to have negative pressure in your crankcase. A vented cap will just give you neutral pressure.
This really is something anyone can do, it's not hard. The cavity behind is wide open. You could clean it when done and actually put a dab of silicone over the hole, let it dry and it will never get sucked in. The screw is just an easy way to get access to it for keeping it clean in the future. I even thought about hogging a 3/8" (or larger) hole to be able to clean the channels going to each intake runner and then silicone a small plate over the hole. It took 116,000 miles of neglect to gunk up the engine to the point of clogging the hole the first time. I doubt the body will last another 100k with the stinking Pittsburgh salt winters. Thanks for the compliment on the cars.
That open chamber feeds orifices in each intake runner. Those orifices will also clog up, so just remove the intake, and do it right. Under worst condition and poor maintenance, it will clog. I have 100k, no carbon. Use premium oil/filters, premium fuel, and change every 4k miles. It's poor maintenance that is clogging up the PCV system.
I agree that proper maintenance should prevent this, but the peace of mind it gives you actually knowing that hole is clear is well worth the minimal effort and 10 minutes it takes to do this. If you have two or three hours and are used to removing large parts of the engine, then go ahead and do it "the right" way. Some of us bought used cars and we have no idea how well it was maintained. I wouldn't discourage anyone from doing this.
@Andujar Jalepena there is a simple way to test if the port is open, takes 30 seconds. Drilling that hole, does not fix the problem if the small passage ways to each runner are clogged too. I' very seen it many times
@@tssci6774 the hole on mine was plugged and I did shoot brake cleaner through each passage. They were clear. My engine was not well taken care of, I bought it with a jumped timing chain and bent valves. Engine was very dirty inside but I think that orifice may be the smallest point. You have 4 passage ways from each intake runner going to one tiny hole that is the first constriction from the crank case. I would have to cut an intake apart to see how big those 4 passage ways are. I didn't push a wire or anything through the passageways so I guess the brake cleaner was enough to clear anything that may have been in there.
GM is currently under class action lawsuit for the pcv hole clogging from ice. Places that these engines are running in freezing weather and only running for short periods can cause the hole to freeze. Proper maintenance can’t protect you from shit engineering design.
@Cory Allen hey DA, it requires both the internal orifice to clog with carbon and for large amount of the internal catch can to fill with oil and moisture, to cause high pressure. It takes years to block the orifice, and weeks to build up excessive gunk in the upper hose. Takes two seconds to check both. No excuse.
I drilled a 1/8” hole. The inner hole is 3/32 (slightly smaller). I just grabbed a screw from my box of misfit screws and put one in. Doesn’t have to be a sheet metal screw. You could plug it with a dab of silicone if you wanted. Just don’t get a screw too long or it will thread right into the inner hole. Kinda defeats the purpose.
thank you, I always look through the comments to determine if something is worth it. I just put the info out there after struggling to get the intake off. Up here in the rust belt, the dipstick tubes get rusty and mine felt like it was going to snap after bending it out of the way to get the final clearance to remove the intake. Hope this helps you like it has many others.
Could someone that has done this share the dimensions? Someone that has removed their intake manifold and drilled through the back, measure where the hole came through on the front of the manifold? That center hole where you would screw the manifold back on to the engine would be ideal!
Your a genius!!!! Thanks for sharing. Give this man the automotive modification trick of the year award! I cleaned mine out about 3 months ago after trying to get my Chevy dealer to make good on the recall, but he said since it had 84k miles it was outside the warranty and thus not his problem. He then offered to do the fix for around $500. I watched a video that saves a lot of work by not removing the manifold but just breaking away from the head then using a mirror and 90 deg awl to clear the plugged port. It worked just fine but I cringe at the thought of doing that every 3/4 months. With this mod I can clean it every oil change. Thanks again! This is just another case where the private sector fixes the ills of the highly edumacated engineers.
Thank you for your kind words, truth is I'm just lazy and don't want to ever pull it off again.
Made a 3 hour job into a 15 minute job . I also added a small O ring on the screw and tighten it very gently. At 50k miles and a 2017 model and living in Florida mine was clear of any debris but I am glad to know it is OK. Backyard mechanics are the best. Thanks for the video.
Nice trick. I just did this and only took about 8 minutes. I drilled a 1/8 hole very slowly and only took like 4 seconds to get through. Then I used a paper clip to go inside and clear the inner hole. Three tips for anyone who want's to do this. - 1. find some short crews you think might fit before you drill. 2. Don't remove the cardboard paper shield on the intake, just slice down the middle with a knife where you need to drill and fold it out of the way. 3. Don't over tighten the screw you put back in, when it gets snug stop turning so you don't strip it out.
Thanks for the tips. I’ll be trying this out today on our 2015.
@@kamikazi777how'd it go?
Hi
I have been searching everywhere to find out what the torque is for the intake manifold bolts. Its almost impossible for some reason with google to find info on the verano. Anyone know the torque (ft/lbs&nm)??
For an 11 year old Chevy Equinox with 180 thousand miles, this saves me a lot of time and money to keep it running. Thanks.
Just confirming what everyone else said. I got a pan head screw #8 by 3/8. Used a 7/64 bit covered in grease. The plastic is not thick and you drill through it very fast. Used some bail wire to find the hole. The area is all 1” deep except the hole which is 1.75”. So very easy to find. I put a small o ring around the screw head just for kicks and screwed it in. Took maybe 30 minutes total but I went real slow. Easy preventative maintenance.
Update. Things are still fine. I pull the screw and clean the PCV orifice every few oil changes. The o ring broke so now I just use the bare screw. Good luck fellow shitty car owners.
Thank you for including sizes, will be tackling this today!
Did it clear up the crankcase pressure?
This is a fantastic preventative maintenance fix, it worked just as you said. I made a small cut in the protective heatshield cloth-like material to access the spot to drill, and cleaned it off thoroughly. I used a sharp screw just to make a tiny start point in the right location so the drill bit didn't walk. Instead of a drill, I used a battery powered screwdriver with a 1/8" bit for slow, controllable revolutions. I put some thick grease on the end of the 1/8" bit to collect the shavings (that worked perfectly, thank you for that tip). I went slowly, so when the bit broke through, I stopped. I used a fairly big paperclip, bent straight to reach through and clear out the PCV hole inside the intake. You will know you hit the hole if you can sink the straight paperclip in about 1.75". I also sprayed some throttle body cleaner down the hole. A small flanged screw was perfect to seal the hole. This saved hours of labor that could have the potential to damage some other expensive parts.
Followup to this great fix, it seems the mild oil consumption issue my car has had has also diminished for some reason. Oil consumption issues are common on the 2.4L ecotech. Again, thank you for this excellent video
What sort of grease would you recommend? I've got some multipurpose lithium grease kicking around. Would that be thick enough?
I did this about a year ago … was sharing it on Facebook and wanted to circle back here to thank you as it has saved me a lot of grief … it’s now so easy to clean. I just pull the screw (I used a self tapping hex headed sheet metal screw) and blast it with some aerosol intake cleaner and it runs great again!
awesome, glad to hear it helped. My engine is still an oil sucking pig, the rings are stuck. Seems like I'm making headway in that department though. Lots of different ideas on getting them unstuck. I'm trying them all.
Followed your advice and it worked just like you describe here. A few years ago I had the rear seal blow out on my Equinox and found that it was caused by the plugged pcv orifice. To clear it, I pulled the intake forward enough to reach the back side with a pick. That was a lot of work and there was the risk of deforming or displacing the intake gaskets when reinstalling. Using your method is much easier and works just as well to clear it. I cut a slit in the insulator over the manifold and drilled a 7/64" access hole. Then I cleared the orifice with a small wire and plugged the hole with a #8 x 3/8" sheet metal screw. I put some gray gasket sealer on the threads, but the screw is tight and probably will seal itself. Now I can clear it once or twice a year and avoid disaster like happened before. Thank you very much.
the sealer on the threads is a little overkill, you would never be able to notice the amount of air that might possibly leak around the threads. There's a lot of air moves through an intake manifold. How many times have there been cracked vacuum lines and it may run a little bad or throw a light. That's a ton more air with a cracked hose than could ever get through those threads.
@@andujarjalepena4405 I agree. The screw fits very tight and I don't think I'll put anything on it next time. Now if I could find a good way to end that problem with the engine burning oil like you described in your comments from the past. I always think of the old saying "fill 'er up with oil and check the gas." Have you found a solution yet for yours?
@@fastbusiness I've been using the Valvoline restore and protect oil. It's supposed to clean the ring grooves. I did the $300 BG flush and it did nothing but make my wallet lighter. My daughter has the car and she said she is still putting a quart in every tank of gas. The engine is wet underneath now. Looks like both seals may be bad. I haven't seen the car in a couple months to check anything. The engine was not wet before the restore and protect. I'm not blaming the oil for this. I just can't get my daughter to come home so I can check anything. I don't know if it's leaking a quart of oil or pushing it past the rings at this point. The restore and protect is about $25 on amazon. That's the cheapest you will find it.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thanks for letting me know. I subscribed to your YT channel here, so if you think about it, give me an update on any progress you make on getting the oil burning stopped. I have the 2011 Equinox with the 2.4L ecotec and I have to check the oil every week. I think I have to add about a quart every 500 miles. In addition to that, the cat was ruined by the oil burning two years ago so I have a permanent P0420 code that makes the check engine light come on every few hundred miles. No need to install a new one if it will be fouled within a short time.☹
@@fastbusiness Try putting 1 gal of lacquer thinner in the gas tank with approx 8 gals gas (3/8-1/2 tank). I've had some success doing this but you have to run it on the highway and get it hot. Just puttering around town isn't going to clean it. Do it when you plan on taking a trip of 75-100 miles or so. Look for some youtubes on the subject. You can clean a cat if it's not broken up. I would never buy one if it weren't broken up or melty looking inside. Worst case would be to take it off and put it in a bucket of water with laundry detergent mixed in. I've never tried this but if your going to change it anyway might as well try and save a few hundred dollars by cleaning it first. Bolts will be easy enough to remove again if cleaning fails.
WOW, you saved me hours of labor. Drilled the hole exactly as you indicated. Took a bit to find the vent orifice because it was plugged so bad. Epoxy is setting now and tomorrow will be the test day. Thank you.
silicone would be better, you could pick it off and check the hole yearly. You will just have to drill through the epoxy again, no biggie. Peace of mind knowing it's clear.
I am laughing because is so simple and so hard to think at the same time!!!! You saved a lot of us a ton of time. Your tip is great and really appreciated. I watched a ton of videos of people spending a big effort as we usually would do to clean up this part. Thanks for sharing your tip!!!!
Your very much welcome. Glad you found it useful
I tried it today. After having removed intake on other ones in the past, I would say this is a much easier process. Tested after and had a slight vacuum gauge reading on dipstick tube. Thanks Andujar Jalepena For the tip.
Glad it worked out
I had a 2016 LT, never had a problem. I lost in Hurricane Helene. Since it did me so well, I bought a 2016 LTZ last week. I checked the oil cap, it was blowing air out, it had the pcv problem. I ordered some gaskets, called the dealer to ensure they had an Intake Manifold in stock (in case it was beyond cleaning). I saw your video yesterday, changed the spark plugs, and while i was in there, drilled a 1/8th inch hole. Fished around until I found the pcv hole. Put everything back together, used a tiny screw, tested the oil cap... Suction! Thank you so much!! You saved me several unecessary hours of work, and future removals of the intake manifold.
Glad to help. Saves from breaking the dipstick tube off up here in the rust belt also. Hope you are getting things back together after the hurricane.
This is the kind of stuff that makes utube Great!!! Thanks!!!
WOW Thanks a 5 minute job, other than looking for a screw, just did it, ran bailing wire and mine was plugged, been running with oil cap loose, GM should be telling everyone this
GM will never do this, they would be losing tons of $$ removing manifolds
Just read this and 15 minutes later I'm done! I knew there had to be an easier way than removing the manifold. Previously I had drilled a hole in the air intake plenum to spray seafoam in the intake while the engine was running and it seemed to work. But this is a much more sure way to clean it out at every oil change. I think I'll use a squirt of intake cleaner after the paper clip wiggle.
I just did this, sure saves a lot of time and is handy for the next time it needs cleaning.
bought a '14 terrain recently, this is good to know. Doin a tune up on it tomorrow, im gona add this to the to do list while im under the hood. Thanks for the info! had no idea this was an issue.
Change that oil regularly. I would suggest 3,000 miles for local driven vehicle. It's not a bad engine, they just did some stupid things to it in different models that make it seem like the entire engine is a bad design. The low tension piston rings for a few years got stuck really easy. This causes massive oil consumption in certain cases (ask me how I know). If you have a well cared for engine (I did not), then keep taking good care of it. Do a PCV test every time you change the oil, it's very simple. Look for some other utubes on that. You do not want pressure building up in any engine. Will push the oil right past the seals very quickly.
I need to do this to my dad's 2012 GMC terrain. Thanks for the great information
go for it, takes 15 minutes. No reason not to do it.
Did this today on a 2010 Malibu. Thank you so much.
Great idea
This may not have been a problem for malibus. Seems it’s mostly the equinox/terrain setup. Couldn’t hurt if it worked though
Thanks so much. Was easy and works, you probably saved me thousands on my two equinoxes
the intake is a pita to get out. Glad it worked for you.
Thanks, I like this! I will have to try it. I'm a former Tech, retired now and always look for a easier way to do things
you probably take very good care of your engine, but the peace of mind it gives you knowing that stinking hole is clear is worth the minimal effort.
@@andujarjalepena4405 It worked out and helped with blow-by, '17, 117k mi
Great idea there Sir I also took an and drilled mine out another 16th of an inch so that basically to compensate for the age of the vehicle it gets a little more PCV and it doesn't seem to affect the idle control at all or set any codes so as your engine gets older it makes more contaminants so I thought that was a good idea you don't have to do it but that's what I did
Thanks man that was a huge time saver in a pinch. Not hard chevy is dumb not making that call lol. I usually don't believe videos like this.
I will try your suggestion next time! Thank’s man.
I'm gonna try this, better then a rear main blowing out or removing the intake. I'm also adding an oil catch can. thanks for sharing
the orifice in the intake is 3/32. Some guys are increasing it to 1/8 inch. I don't see a need to do this if it only takes 5 minutes every 30,000 miles. Just poke around in there once you get the hole drilled. Should be straight in. Let me know how it went.
I got the vented oil cap. and I'm gonna drill this out too just in case. How did the catch can work? I read it would be too much oil to collect so it may not work well.
I saw a video yesterday where a guy put 5ounces of seafoam in his crankcase then drove for about 300 miles drained the oil and refilled and drove another 300 and checked his oil level.He was losing alot of oil every fillup ,and this helped alot and is very easy to do,and a cheap fix if it helps other people.
this didn't work for me. I'm trying the plugs out and pout 2 or 3 ozs of berrymans B12 down each hole and letting it set over night. Mine is pigging oil down. 250-300 miles and a quart low.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Wow you are going thru alot of oil.
@@andujarjalepena4405 how did the piston soaks work? If it was just the rings, it should have helped. But in a lot of cases the small holes in the piston for oil control get clogged and once that happens, you have to remove the pistons and drill them out, which is terrible.
Piston soak didn't do anything. I'm going to try 2 rounds of BG products EPR. It's a last try. Some guys are saying the rings lose tension. They are probably low tension rings to begin with. I just think they are really stuck. You would have to get an engine pretty hot to de-tension the rings. My cylinder walls were beautiful after 125k miles. Still had the original hone marks. I'm not tearing down a 13 year old car engine because of the oil burning. I'll just sell it cheap and tell the people to keep an eye on the oil. What frustrates me is that it runs really good. No CEL or smoke. I do think compression is down but I haven't really done a proper check on it.
AJ I was thinking that. Now I know. Thanks for crossing the barrier for me.
No problem. Don't be afraid to do this. just go slow, the plastic drills very easy.
You are the man! Thanks worked great! See if it slows the oil burning.
Awesome!! Thanks for getting back and letting me know. Glad I could help someone. I've been watching a lot of stuff about BG products cleaning up engines that burn oil because of stuck rings. It's a $300 kit but seems to work well. Of course if your car is only going to last a few more years like mine up here in the rust belt, then just buy a lot of oil and drive it into the ground. The oil may hurt the cat though.
@@andujarjalepena4405 I had oil consuption, 2011, 110,000 miles, pulled plugs, made a mixture Acetone 80% 20% tranny fluid filled set 24 hrs, than did it again fill, 24 hrs, than rotated over to prevent hydro lock, and drained, new oil filter ran 100 miles changed again so far oil consumption stopped 3,000 miles since
@@thomasmorris302 sounds like your oil control rings were stuck with carbon and guk. I see BG products also has an engine flush product (it's expensive $300 I think). Not sure if it cleans the ring grooves. If mine eats oil then I may just try your method, I like it. These are not bad engines, they just have to be taken care of with more than 10,000 mile oil changes. The PCV hole is just a horrible design from the beginning. Other 2.4 ecotecs in cars don't suffer this. It's just a bad design (PCV) for this model. This is my 4th ecotec powered car that I purchased with failed timing chain. Luckily all of them just had the valves bent and no piston damage. All of them were dirty inside from a lack of proper oil change intervals. I would say 5,000 miles is the limit for oil changes on an ecotec or any engine. That thing had to smoke a ton after the 80/20 mix was pushed into the exhaust and started. Did you have any problem with the cat? I would think it would affect it. Your post is very interesting. I like new ideas.
@@thomasmorris302 Mine is pigging oil down. 1 quart every 300 miles. Tried seafoam in the crankcase, nothing. Dumping Berrymans down the spark plug holes this time around. If that fails then I'm doing your method. May try Methyl Ethyl Keytone and trans fluid. MEK is a hotter thinner than lacquer. Evaporates really fast. Cleans parts really well though.
Make sure the screw isn't too long or it will go right into the hole and plug it up. Guess I should have pointed that out.
Thanks! Just did my access hole, super easy. Think I have the gummed up/stuck rings also (I removed the manifold 4 months ago and cleaned the PCV hole). If this doesn’t help, probably will have to do the Valvoline restore and protect, too, as mine is gobbling a quart of oil per gas tank at this point). Let me know if valvoline starts helping or not!?
I actually know my cylinder walls were in perfect shape because I had to have the head rebuilt. No scoring at all, looked like almost new cylinder walls. The BG products usually help but didn't in my case. After conversations with a shop that does these all the time, he said that 1 or 2 out of 10 don't unstick. I'm hoping the slow approach with Valvoline will help. I just want to sell the car at this point because I don't need it but I won't stick anyone with a problem like this. If someone can only afford a 3,500 car then I won't sell them something that may blow up in a couple tankfuls of gas because they won't check the oil. My daughter had this car at college and she wouldn't check it. I harped on her constantly about the importance. We as a society just don't check oil anymore. I'll try and remember to come back to this post and let you know. The car sits a lot now that I replaced it with another car for my daughter.
@@andujarjalepena4405 You should do a video on the Valvoline (and other ring cleaning efforts). . .
It's been very frustrating but a quart of oil every tankful is better than a car payment. My daughter has the car and she said it has gotten better but she is also driving less now. I'm surprised it hasn't affected the cat yet. I'll just throw a gallon of lacquer thinner in to clean it up if it does. Has never thrown a light.
@@dosgos I've poured everything down those plug holes trying to get them unstuck. I've beat on that engine trying to get it hot and boil out the rings, literally put it in 3rd gear and ran it over 4,000 rpms for over an hour and half on the highway. Nothing changed, just beat the whiz out of it. Valvoline may be helping, not sure yet.
🎉holy cannolie so easy , took longer to get the drill , bit and a screw ! I used a large torch tip cleaner and BINGO ! I have vacuum at the pcv hose spigot again
awesome.
I would coat the threads of the screw with black gasket maker to 1.) seal any air leaks and 2.) prevent the screw from backing out due to vibration.
If it were to suck any air around the threads, the amount would be so minute that it would never have an affect. Screws generally stay in plastic but if you wanted to silicone it in, that would probably be for peace of mind, but it wouldn't hurt.
Definitely Works 100%. Thansk
Did it. Cranked it up n spint it round da block QUIETLY.
I was like timing chain, take off valve cover and clean the lil oil port then take off the oil pan n clean the oil pick up screen.
Very nice repair. Thanks!!
TSB:19-NA-021 also involves removal of the valve cover which I'm pretty sure involves cleaning out coked up vertical passage up through the head and into the valve cover. Maybe be a good idea to pull the oil cap and blow some regulated air pressure or smoke through that horizontal hole passage to hear or see it come out the valve cover, other wise you need to remove the valve cover and de- crud that passage too😂
I will do its.Just take a more or less in between up screw positiion by outside and open small hole , aply cleaner and can use injection nedlee unlock internal hole .. so very easy Tks in advance
Problem is just because that port isn't clogged the pcv porting inside the intake manifold can be clogged down stream . The pcv is ported to each of the four intake runners. If you spray carb cleaner in the center PCV port you should see it exit into each of the four intakes . Then you will know the pcv system is free of any obstructions
That is correct, the 4 intake runners pull through the tiny hole first. The hole is the first thing to see dirty air from the crankcase. I guess the 4 larger intake runners could possibly clog first. There have been reports of the runners being clogged. I just cleaned mine and didn't take notice if they were clogged. I know from the second Equinox I purchased that the hole was clogged and once I did this procedure the crankcase was pulling vacuum.
I knew it was a simpler way to resolve this problem
Thanks for the video, good idea.
But to make this hole you still need to remove your manifold. Good thing is that you need to do it once.
I don't think to try to guess the right place and drilling from the outside is the good idea
Use a 1/8 bit on the outside. Plastic is probably 3/16" thick, you will find the other hole. It is just an open chamber. If you want to go through all the aggravation of removing it, then go ahead. It is not necessary to do. Just go through the outside and clean. You will find the orifice.
Just because the hole isn't plugged doesn't mean the channels to the four runners aren't. It needs to be taken off and cleaner sprayed into the hole to verify no blockages. If there are no blockages the cleaner will spray out of the side around the opening of each runner. The TSB doesn't tell you to do this, it just says to clean out the hole.
Do the test for the PCV if it whistles it's clear. The four runners leading to the intake all suck through the little hole. The hole is the first restriction in the PCV system. It's probably the smallest restriction also (I haven't cut an intake apart to verify). Look at the many, many, many people that have had success just doing this simple task. I don't think there has been a person yet that hasn't been successful. If you want to pull the intake manifold, risk snapping the dipstick tube off, then go right ahead but don't discourage others from doing this. It's so simple a child can do it and the reward is wonderful when you hear the whistle (PCV test) and the crankcase isn't building pressure any more.
Your video helped me immensely. Thank you!! We have a 2015 Equinox with 185K miles and most of its life has been in Arizona which maybe saved us from the disasters others in cold climates experienced. I performed this o day and it worked out just fine. But when removing the oil cap while idling, there still is t suction from the hole, it’s still pushing out air as well as some oil vapor I. The form of faint smoke. It’s slight though. Any suggestions as to where I can begin looking to troubleshoot the lack of suction?
Your going to see oil vapor push out when the cap is off. That tiny orifice can't possibly produce enough vacuum to over come that. Try the PVC test for equinox found in another video. I believe you pull the hose off the side of the intake runner and hold your thumb over it while running. It should build vacuum in the line and start to whistle. If this test fails you may have a cracked hose or worse yet, the passages leading to each runner are clogged and the intake will need to be taken off. Do the test first, look for the easy stuff (I.E. cracked hoses). I'm guessing if you got the inner hole cleared it will be just fine. Also, if it's running for 30 seconds or so, you remove the oil fill cap and there's pressure pushing out, that means it's clogged or the pcv system is not working. I had a BMW that would do this. Let me know how the test worked. Building pressure in the engine will push the oil right past the seals.
@@andujarjalepena4405
Thanks for the response. I’ll give the test a try. I’m accepting the fact I should just do a complete job and remove the intake and clear the side ports off the center one and at least I’ll know for certain it’s all clear. I can’t imagine we will keep this thing too much longer as it is. What a mess so many of us purchased huh? Thanks again.
if the test shows the pvc system is working, you're golden. Every month you drive it is $400 payment that stays in your pocket and not some dealers pocket. @@kamikazi777
This is a clever fix
Thank you, brilliant ❤
Una pregunta se puede hacer el a bujero por fuera del vehículo no abra problema alguno con la rebava qe sale
At 1:49 you refer to a port. Is that the PCV outlet? Is that what’s plugging the hole with blow by gasses?
After doing this,would spraying carb cleaner into the hole ,clean the orifices between the passages,I hear they can plug up also
I don't think it would help, it's a little difficult because the passages leading to each intake runner go sideways out of the chamber you are drilling into. I actually thought about drilling a large hole, maybe 3/8" and then you would be able to shoot the cleaner sideways into these passages, then use a rubber tire patch over the hole. Remember, there is a vacuum at that point so it would actually be sucking the patch tighter to the intake. I wouldn't recommend anyone do this though unless they had a spare intake laying around in case something went really badly. I wouldn't drill the inner hole any larger for any reason. It is a specific size to create a controlled inner vacuum leak to suck the pressure out of the crankcase so you don't blow the seals out. Any larger could cause a lean condition. I have heard some guys are drilling it from 3/32" (stock size) to 1/8". It's a very small amount. Probably wouldn't hurt and the computer would adjust, but why do it? You can clean the orifice while the oil is draining every 2 or 3 oil changes. Takes 30 seconds to pull the screw and stick a paper clip in there. Hope this helps.
Will this work on a 2014 buick verano. It has the 2.4 ecotec, and it looks like the same manifold
yes, if you are having issues with PCV and the intake is similar. Do a pcv test first, don't assume it's clogged. Just do a quick search on your car for the test. It's very easy.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thanks for replying back. I just purchased the verano 4 months ago and noticed the excessive oil consumption. No check engine light is on and it is running good. I will do what you suggest. Thanks
I've been having major oil consumption problems on my Equinox also. The piston rings get stuck and don't push against the cylinder walls. I have tried a lot of different things to get them unstuck. I know it's the rings because there is a new head on it and the PCV is working great. When I put the new head on, the cylinder walls looked beautiful so I know they aren't worn. My latest trial is BG products EPR. If your ecotec had sub standard oil changes, this could be the problem for you also. I'm using a quart every 300 miles. No lights on. Very frustrating. I want to sell the car but I won't stick anyone with this problem. @@geraldhmcmasterjr4704
This is brilliant. If after running a wire through the orifice if it would cause any problems to use an air compressor to blow out that cavity.
No need to really do that. The hole is very small (3/32"). You can go to some other videos to see how to test the PCV system. If it's working, then there's no need to go any further. As some have stated, there are channels leading to each intake runner to pull vacuum into the chamber. If they are clogged also, probably best to pull the intake and clean them. If you're not building pressure in the crank case then you are good to go. Pulling the intake is a 3 hour pain for the average back yard mechanic. The oil filler tube is the worst part. No real good way to deal with it but to bend the crap out of it to get the intake out. All that being said, just keep the orifice clean and all should be fine.
@@andujarjalepena4405 I was just thinking ahead if those other channels were clogged either trying to blow out the gunk or possibly drill large enough hole in intake to run a bent wire through them since they seem to line up. And then seal the larger hole. All to avoid the intake removal. I guess I'll see if just clearing the orifice is all that's needed first. Thanks for the tip!
@@SGT_Tow could try a blast of carb cleaner instead of compressed air and hope some of it goes sideways. I would think you could get into trouble with too much pressure from a compressor. Nice thing about this is that if it's still clogged, you could do your method and silicone a small patch over the hole. I would probably just yank it if it were that clogged. Good luck
Thank you
Since you removed the intake manifold, instead of drilling this 1/8 hole, can you widen the hole on the manifold with 1/4 in drill bit, so it won't ever clog up?
NO. The hole is a size that regulates the vacuum to a certain amount. Some guys are drilling it to 1/8". If you make it too big, it will cause too much vacuum and possibly cause other issues like throwing codes or not running correctly. This hole is technically a controlled vacuum leak. Too much could change the air/fuel ratio and richen the mixture. burn more gas and clog up the catalytic converter. It's a crappy system that GM designed, but we are stuck with it.
sorry I never got back to you. Do not drill it any bigger. Some guys are going to 1/8" with success. The hole is sized so that there is only a certain amount of suction. 1/4" hole may be too much and throw a light.
How do u clean the orfices going to the chambers?? Wouldnt throttle body cleaner just go in the intake not cleaning the other pathways? Please advise thanks!
This just cleans the problematic main orifice, If you clean this and do the PCV test, you're done. No need to take the intake off and clean the pathways to each runner. There are many other videos showing a test to see if the PCV system is working. It's a simple test. I think with the equinox you just pull the hose leading to the side of the intake and hold your thumb over it, if it starts to whistle, you're golden. Good luck.
Great Video! Is it possible to get a measurement....instead of "approximately halfway in between".....? Thanks!
You are drilling into an open cavity. Anywhere close will be fine, once you get through to the cavity, you just poke around with a paper clip or wire till you hit the hole and clean it out. Look at some of the other comments, many have done it. It should be in a Chevy bulletin on these models. Red Monkey butt has some very good tips.
Do you have dimensions where you drilled, for perfect alignment?
@@stevebystrom2322 just get it close to where I show. You are drilling into an open chamber. The plugged hole is on the other side of the chamber.
Got it. Thanks for your reply!
@@stevebystrom2322 it’s very easy. Just poke around in there after you drill through. It will go through very fast. Maybe 4 seconds of drilling. Then poke around with a paper clip. May not find it right away if it’s plugged solid. Do the pcv test before and after.
@@andujarjalepena4405 I appreciate your help, I will put it to use, this week.
Did it, today. 1/8" bit & #8 panhead self tapper. Perfect fit. Orifice WAS clogged, now, she whistles while testing. Thank you, much, for the video!!
Is this method safe if you live up north? I’m concerned that leaving the screw in might crack the plastic intake manifold during cold and hot temperatures?
you will be fine, just pick any screw that isn't too big. I'm in the Pittsburgh area. Even if something like a crack would appear (and it won't), just clean it and silicone over it. This wouldn't happen unless you used a 1/4" screw in a tiny hole. You could literally cut a piece of the intake out and glue a patch over the area (Don't do that). Plastic intakes get broken all the time and guys get the proper glue and fix them. It's not a high stress part.
@ thanks. I used a 3/4” long flange screw. hand tight and installed a oil catch can
@@josephmojica8859 if the PCV system is working correctly you really shouldn't need the catch can but it couldn't hurt. Did you get the whistling after doing the test?
@@andujarjalepena4405 my car is running great. 80,000 miles 2017
preventative maintenance is my deal.
Had ruff idling issues just recently removed the intake manifold to clean out the intake valves. They were pretty clogged issue is gone. I advise anyone and everyone to have their intake valves clean, especially with these type of GDI engines.
What is the port with the plastic tube facing left under the screw for?
it's part of the pcv system. There's a plastic tube that runs on top of the valve cover towards the oil fill neck. I will have to pull my cover off to see exactly what it hooks to after that. It may just be a breather on the valve cover. I'm not sure.
*** How can we spray cleaner into our drilled hole, ensuring it sprays into the two arcs that lead to the 4 intake runners? From the plastic orifice baffle area built into the intake (the plastic block that leads to the orifice), where are the inlets for the two arcs that we would want to direct the spray straw??
MORE DETAIL - By removing the intake, one can easily spray cleaner into the the orifice and see it spray out of the 4 intake runners (if they are clear). Some have reported these passages to the 4 runners were blocked, so the passages might be worth cleaning.
However, by not removing the intake and spraying cleaner into our drilled hole, I doubt much spray will migrate to the 4 runners (the cleaner just might help clean the orifice, the plastic orifice baffle area, and maybe some of the engine block passages).
How are the passages plumbed? It seems there is one passage that goes from the orifice block up the intake in an arc leftwards to ONE space between runners 1 & 2 (so "spray" from the orifice exits from the left and right of runners 1 & 2, respectively. And a second arc that does the same on the right side (between runners 3 & 4).
BTW - If we look carefully at the intake mounted on the car, maybe we can see hints in the plastic of where the two arcs are running.
You are correct that others have reported the 4 channels leading to each intake runner have been blocked. The 4 runners supply vacuum to the orifice, so the orifice is the first thing to get hit with all the vapor and such from the cylinder head orifice that leads to the valve train area. My engine was not well taken care of and that's why the chain stretched and slipped at only 120k. The main thing is to keep pressure from building up in the engine and pushing the oil out of the main seals. If you get the small orifice cleaned out and do your PVC test, it should be giving you the small controlled vacuum leak through the orifice to keep negative pressure in the crank case. If you get the hole cleaned and still creating pressure in the case, you will have to remove the intake and clean the 4 channels. You could try running the engine with the hole open and spraying carb cleaner in the outer hole that you drilled, it should get sucked into the intake through the channels.That might be a way to try and flush the channels. Up here in the rust belt I was terrified the dipstick tube was going to snap. You really have to bend it pretty far to get the intake out. The tube is pressed in the block and would be a real pita to try and get the broken part out of the block. I would clean the orifice like I've shown and do the PCV test. If it's sucking, you are golden. Good luck!! Many have had great success doing this.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thank you. We thought about bending the red spray tube by inserting a wire, gently heating, bending to 90*. Then blindly poking for the 2 holes that go to the intake runners. I think we will give your idea a try first as it is so easy.
This was a great video btw.
@@dosgos that actually sounds like a great idea. A really, really great idea! Wish I would have thought of it.
@@andujarjalepena4405Spraying cleaner into the smallish PCV hole at "intake #1" , cleaner flows out of the hole at "intake#2". So I think the 2 intake runner's PCV holes are directly linked, which seems clever.
I saw that demonstration on a Mexican video late last night called "válvula pcv limpieza equinox 2010 Chevrolet", at about the 10:40 time mark.
Of course the tiny orifice that gets clogged is not clever engineering.
@@andujarjalepena4405Follow-up.
We did an Italian tune up for 30 minutes, after warming up the engine. We brought the engine past 5k rpm several times but didn't beat the daylights out of it.
A few days later, we checked there was some vacuum pulling the oil cap. And some vacuum pulling at the dipstick too.
We disconnected the rubber hose at the left-front of the valve cover and plugged it while the car was idling warm; there was a whining sound (we read that indicates the PCV system is working). The noise wasn't that loud tbh.
We removed our new screw from the front of the intake manifold; when we covered that with a finger, we noticed a lot of vacuum pulling our skin off (that got uncomfortable).
Inserted the CRC straw (with a sealing rubber washer) slightly into our new hole, started the car, and made several very brief sprays. The engine immediately stumbled for a second after each spray. Tried that at idle and at 2000 rpm. Hoping the CRC cleaner was sucked in the passages between the new hole and the 4 intake runners for clearing any intake crud.
What about the possible clogged tubes that pass between the pcv and the cylinder intakes? If it was this easy a fix you don't think GM would have changed it a decade ago?
The orifice is the smallest point that clogs very easily. The passages going to each runner are somewhat larger. Yes, they can clog if the engine is really dirty. After doing this simple cleaning, test your PCV if it is working (other videos). If it is, you're golden. If it's not working, then all four passages are clogged (unlikely but possible) and the intake must be removed to clean these passages. If your engine is that dirty then you probably have other issues also, like stuck rings, worn valve seals or just a ton of un-cared for miles. The orifice is also the first point of entry for the internal engine pressure you are trying to evacuate. Once it clogs, there's nothing getting to the runners. Look at other comments on this video, lots of happy Ecotec owners.
Brilliant !! Hey we’re can I get those oil catch cans??
I'm not sure you need one if everything is working correctly.
I bought mine off Amazon
I'll try to drill the hole out in the same location going bynyour video and see how I do thanks
@@wayneh8767 you will be fine. There’s a cavity you’re drilling into. Once you get through just poke around. The inner hole may be plugged. You’ll know when you get through
What this is going to do to my car ? To run better or why is important to declogged ??
The PCV system sucks the pressure out of the crankcase. If the hole clogs, it builds pressure in the crankcase and pushes your motor oil past the main seals. It ruins the seals and causes massive oil leaks. Without oil the engine blows up. That's the costly damage.
It also helps with emissions. "PCV" stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation.
I am replaceing my 2011 buick 2.4 LAF engine with a 2013 LEA. Do you know if the LEA has the ring problem also?
I think it's more in the intake design than anything. Most ecotecs don't have this problem. It's a really good engine if people would just change their oil. The rings sticking is a product of a lack of maintenance. The factories spec out these ridiculous oil change intervals of 10-15 thousand miles sometimes. Dirty old oil starts to clog everything as you would expect. I'm still fighting an oil consumption problem. Just can't get them un-stuck on mine.
Thanks. I was hoping perhaps GM solved the ring problem. I will be doing the intake mod and new timing chain before it goes in. Hope for the best! @@andujarjalepena4405
@@andujarjalepena4405 From what I've heard, the rings lose tension because of a bad design, so the only true fix is to overhaul it. Apparently they even have a redesigned piston too.
That would explain my oil loss if that's true. I will research this. This post deals with the clogged PCV hole that wreaks havoc on the main seals. Causes pressure in the crank case. I know the oil consumption in my case is going by the rings. Everything is new on top. Cylinders looked beautiful when I pulled the head. Still had the hone marks so it's either stuck rings or they have lost tension like you said. Thanks for the info.@@grabasandwich
You could have someone hold a shopvac near the drill to suck up anything that can get in the hole.
Just put grease on the drill bit, the small amount of shavings will stick right to it. The chips always come up when drilling. Also, I wouldn't worry if a chip or two of small plastic went in. If you see the carbon build up on many of the newer engines around the intake valves, that stuff breaks free all the time. Gets sucked in and blown out
I enlarged the hole in the intake manifold to 3/16 in. as suggested by this other dude. But that caused some bad whisling. When you drill to 1/8 in. do you get that whisling?
The original hole inside is 3/32 (slightly less than 1/8"). Does it whistle after you plug the outer hole? That's odd. I guess it's possible for any hole to whistle. Usually a whistle indicates an intake leak from the inside of the engine to the outside of the engine. I wouldn't think an interior whistle would be audible. Check the screw you plugged the outer hole first. Make sure it's not leaking around there.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Sorry I was not clear. I did not drill the outer hole like you suggest yet. I couple of month ago I only enlarged the inside hole to 3/16" to prevent it to get clogged according to another video and the whisling began. Enlarging the inside hole to 1/8" should prevent it to get clogged but I don't want the whisling. I have a new intake manifold I want it right before instlling it.
You have an intake leak
@@101aigle did you figure out the whistling as mine is doing the same thing wasn’t doing it before
@ADRIANJORDAN-fv3eg the whistling is due to the hole being too large. The factory size hole is set at a specific specification for the correct vacuum, too large of a hole will cause it to whistle. Trust me this happened to me and I had to buy a whole new manifold to stop the whistling.
Im a bit slow here sorry. What exactly did this process help? Im looking up how to replace pcv valve or possibly clean it if possible.
The hole that needs cleared out in this video is in the PCV system. It's the smallest point and usually clogs first. When it clogs, the engine builds pressure and pushes your oil out of the lower main seal. There are other videos to show how to test if the system is working properly, it's very easy. If it's not getting proper suction this hole is usually the culprit.
@@andujarjalepena4405 ahhh ok. Thanks for replying and also explaining. Im going to have and do this process because my wife equinox is burning oil with no leaks, or exhaust color out the back yet and has an exhaust smell in the car. Im taking steps in process of elimination to try and figure things out.
@@El_LeChErO91 The piston rings may be stuck like mine. I bought mine with the timing chain slipped. Cylinder walls looked beautiful. New head and chains and the thing runs perfect. Swallows oil like a pig, going right past the rings. 1 quart every tankful. No lights, no smoke, no leaks. Seems for about 3 or 4 years GM put low tension piston rings in these engines. If the oil wasn't changed often enough (before the recommended interval) they would get clogged and stick the rings in the pistons. I've tried every kind of swill thrown down the cylinders to unstick them. Even did a BG $300 flush. Nothing is helping. I've just resigned myself to throwing a quart of oil in every 400 miles. Others have had luck with the various techniques, I'm just one of the few that nothing seems to have worked. It's cheaper to put a quart of oil in than get another car payment. I'm driving it till it dies. Do the PCV hole clean out, or at least do the test. You don't want to start pushing oil past the seals. engine will be gone in a few miles if that happens.
Should the cleaning process always be done or when there are problems in the car?
It couldn't hurt, do the PCV test first. If your engine was taken care of, it should be O.K. I bought two of Equinoxs from auction, both were clogged. If it clogs, you will build pressure in the crankcase and push the oil right out the main seals. Quite an expensive repair, especially if all the oil pushes out.
Do you have to remove throttle body,to drill at the angle needed,and will I need a long bit to do it?
no on both. You will have to remove or pull back the insulation. Don't worry if it rips or breaks off. I think it's only there for noise suppression. I didn't even put the plastic engine cover back on, It's just there to pretty up the engine bay like much of the worthless plastic. Scotty Kilmer takes all that stuff and throws it in the trash. I kinda agree with him on that. This is literally a 5 minute job once you get the plastic out of the way.
So, What size drill bit I can use for make this hole?? Thanks.
1/8" hole. Just drill through the first layer into the cavity. Should only take a couple seconds. Get a small paper clip and poke the inner hole out. You can put a screw in or a dab of silicone over the hole and let it dry before starting. It's very easy. The inner hole that is clogged is 3/32". It is smaller than 1/8".
Can this be done on the 2.2l engines?
don't know if it's necessary, This was a stupid design on the Equinox intake manifold PCV system. Do the PVC test for your car, should be easy to find one on YT. If it's working properly, no action is needed. I'm not familiar with the 2.2 in your car.
Thanks a lot for your help 🎉🎉🎉🎉
@andujarjalepena4405 Drilled mine out today. i might have drilled a little high cause I'm in the cavity, but can't find the PCV orifice with my wire. Any recommendations on how to proceed? how big can i drill this and be safe?
The hole size really doesn't matter, just so long as you plug it when done. It's just an access hole. You could even put something like a tire patch over the hole. You'll be fine. Just try not to drill the inner hole. That is sized by the factory to allow a certain amount of vacuum. Don't panic. Even a dab of silicone and let it dry for a couple hours. Remember, it will be trying to suck in whatever you put over it.
Thanks for this I'll give it a try!! Is the cavity pretty large behind the hole? Is it dead center or slightly to the right when looking at it form the front of the car?
It's a chamber that has channels leading to all 4 intake runners to draw vacuum from. If you drill approx where I show, you can poke around with a 3/32 drill bit or a piece of tie wire to clean out the orifice. I haven't cut one apart to see just how big the chamber is when you drill through to the inside. It's not very thick t drill through
@@andujarjalepena4405 Thank you! I was worried I had to be dead on but it sounds like there is a bit of space in there from the way you describe it. Going to do this since it was a PITA to pull the intake manifold and clean it last time
@@JoshRange you really can't lose on this one.
Can I spray carb cleaner into that hole or would that be bad? 😬
@@kaitlin4u you would be spraying into the crankcase. A short spray wouldn’t hurt. Just don’t spray a lot. Maybe a one second blast. It will evaporate
Muchas gracias
Fixing to do this to my wife's car that's having oil consumption issues at 100k miles. Nervous about threading a screw into the manifold and it cracking in cold weather since I'm in northern Ohio
the plastic threads very easily. Just pick a screw that is slightly larger than the bit. If you are that worried, just clean the surface with brake clean and put a dab of silicone sealer over the hole and let it dry. You could also put a small piece of inner tube patch on the hole. A piece of duct tape would hold up for awhile also till the heat dried it up.
Mine is a 2013 and eats oil, for a few years they put low tension piston rings in these engines. That coupled with the inept PCV system causes the gook to build up and stick the rings. I've been going crazy trying to get them un stuck. Poured every type of cleaner down the spark plug holes, even did a $300 BG flush. Still using tons of oil. Cleaning the PCV hole has helped a lot of people with their oil consumption. I've got a turd that wasn't cared for with regular oil changes. I'm trying Valvoline restore and protect oil now as a last resort. Valvoline says it will clean the ring grooves. Even if Valvoline doesn't work, it's a quart of oil every 400 miles. Still cheaper than a car payment. Just throw a quart in every tank (that's what I'm using)of gas and drive it till the wheels fall off.
So I did this today and it was super easy .I put a little seafoam in the throttle body to clean that too.I am waiting for the RTV to cure for 24 hours.Of course it was clogged and I have two of these shit cars so I have to do the wifes also.I have two vented oil caps comming in the mail and Im going to use drygas in the winter every other tank of gas to keep the moisture out of the fuel line and the whole system.Its cheap insurance.I also sprayed seafoam in to the port before I put the screw back.This way saved me alot of time and money .How much would this cost if I took this to the dealer?.
Dealers probably won't do this, they would charge at least $500 to pull the intake and clean the hole. You won't be sorry you did this. Doubt you need the vented cap once the PCV system is working properly. The caps may set a CEL but I don't know. It's worth a try. If it sets a CEL just put the old cap back on. The vented cap may also blow oil mist all under the hood and make a mess. Keep us posted on the results.
@@andujarjalepena4405 Ok thanks I have heard that other people get the vented caps to be safe but I am going to be checking the oil level every 1000 miles cause that is very critical and change the oil more often.
Going to try some seafoam in the crankcase before my next oil change to clean the inside a little.
no vacuum leaks?
What are some of the symptoms of a PCV valve starting to clog, but not fully clogged?
Excessive oil consumption, oil leaks. What happens if it clogs, is the crankcase builds pressure, that pressure has to go somewhere. It will push oil past the piston rings or valve seals and burn or worst case, a major oil leak from the main crank seal, the oil pushes out and the engine seizes. There are some simple tests you can do to see if the PCV system is working properly. Just search on Ytube. If you took excellent care of your engine, you really shouldn't have a problem, but the Terrain/Equinox are well known for clogging that tiny (3/32") hole. It's a major design flaw.
@@andujarjalepena4405 thanks
Run vehicle for a while, shutoff, pull PCV out of airbox, remove oil cap, put a rag over PVC and blow hard, if vapor comes out of oil fill hole there is no clog...
2014 captiva 2.4. Pretty excessive pressure in the crankcase when I remove my oil cap(running) is that a tell tell sign of clogged port
ATTENTION-----ATTENTION- THESE WERE ALL MY SYMPTOMS AND THE THINGS I REPLACED ON THE CAR BEFORE I SEEN THIS VIDEO AND SOLVED MY PROBLEMS.
I HAVE A 2012 2.4L ENGINE CHEVY EQUINOX EXACT ENGINE AS THIS ONE.
MY VEHICLE WAS WAS SHAKING AND ROCKING AT A COMPLETE STOP AT THE RED LIGHT, ITS WAS JERKING SO BAD AFTER DRIVING FOR A WHILE THAT I HAD TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL EVERY TIME A CAME TO A RED LIGHT.
I REPLACED THE FOLLOWING THINGS: UPSTREAM AND DOWNSTREAM O2 SENSORS----PURGE VALVE----AIR INTAKE SENSOR- REPLACED THE LITTLE U PLASTIC TUBE GOING TO THE AIR BOX, THE ONE THATS FILLED WITH WATER SOMETIMES. I REPLACE THE THE THROTTLE BODY WITH SENSOR ON IT--------I REPLACED THE FUEL CAP AND THE OIL CAP---
I USE CAT CLEAN AND OIL ADDITIVES--- I CHANGE THE TWO ENGINE AND INTAKE VALVES THAT SIT ON TOP OF THE ENGINE (GREY AND WHITE ). I DID MUCH MORE
BUT WHEN I SEEN THIS VIDEO, I SAID TO MY SELF, ITS NO WAY IN HELL THIS IS MY PROBLEM AT ALL, NO WAY!!!!
IT WAS THE FOURTH OF JULY AND IVE HAD THIS VEHICLE FOR 5 MONTHS NOW AND ITS BEING DOING THIS SINCE I BOUGHT IT. I HAD CONVINCED MYSELF THAT IT WAS JUST THE TIMING CHAIN THAT HAD SKIPPED, LIKE THE ONES YOU SEE ON TH-cam, BUT IT WAS THE 4TH OF JULY I WASN'T DOING ANYTHING SO I SAID TO MYSELF, LET ME RUN INSIDE A GET MY DRILL.
I GOT THE SMALLEST SCREW I COULD FIND, I FOUND TWO THEN THE LITTLEST DRILL BIT AND I DRILL A HOLE IN THE AREA I SEEN IN THE VIDEO AFTER REMOVING ALL THAT PLASTIC AIR INTAKE CRAP, IT TOOK ME 2 SECONDS BUT I DIDNT FIND THE HOLE, SO I HAD TO DRILL ANOTHER HOLE UNDER THE FIRST I DID CASE IT WAS TO HIGH FROM THE HOLE INSIDE THE ENGINE MANIFOLD.
BUT THE SECOND HOLE WAS PERFECT SO I TOOK SOME CARB CLEANER WITH THE STRAW AND SHOT THE CLEANER ALL IN THAT NEWLY DRILLED HOLE, CARB CLEANER SPLASHED EVERYWHERE CAUSE OF THE TWO HOLES I MADE. AFTERWARDS I TOOK A PAPERCLIP AND WENT THROUGH THE DRILLED HOLE TIL I FELT THE OTHER HOLE INSIDE THE MANIFOLD, WIGGLE IT IN AND OUT THEN SPRAYED SOME MORE CARB CLEANER IN IT AND TOOK MY TWO LITTLE SCREWS AND SCREWED THE TWO DRILLED HOLE SHUT.
I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER AND IT TOOK ME LESS THAN 12 MINS, ENJOYED THE HOLIDAY FOOD AND DIDNT THINK OF IT AT ALL.
I JUST WANTED TO SAY I DID EVERYTHING POSSIBLE BEFORE I LET THE DEALER FIX THE TIMING CHAIN. BUT WITH MY AMAZEMENT THE NEXT DAY. I STARTED THE CAR AND I FERLT SOMETHING DIFFERENT, YOU JUST COULD FEEL IT.
YUP, GO TO FIND OUT THAT ALL THESE PROBLEMS MY VEHICLE WAS HAVING WAS BECAUSE OF THIS SMALL PIN SIZE HOLE THE ENGINE WAS FIGHTING TO GET AIR FROM. THIS HOLE WAS PLUGGED UP WITH CARBON JUST AS THE VIDEO DESCRIBES .
SO THATS MY STORY, I HOPE THAT YOU ALL CAN USE THIS TO SAVE YOU A LOT OF GUESSING AS I DID. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ MY WALL OF LOUD TEXT, LOL
Glad it worked for you. There's a lot that can go wrong when there's pressure in the engine.
good to know thanks
just did this on my 2016 Terrain. at 80k mine was still clean but I thought it was plugged because of blowby when I opened the oil filler cap. does anybody know why it feels like you have a little blowby escaping from the oil filler cap. then, when you place the cap on it feels like it's getting sucked down like it is under vacuum.
Cap should get sucked down a little, PCV system seems to be working fine on yours. There's always going to be oil vapor if the engine is hot with the cap off. As long as you are not consuming lots of oil, you should be fine. These engines don't like long oil change intervals, screws them all up. I would say 5,000 mile max if it's highway driven, 3000 if it's a city car. They have low tension piston rings that stick if you don't change the oil often enough. I just did a BG dynamic flush on mine last night to try and free the rings up. Mine is choking down a quart every tank full of gas (about 325 miles).
@@andujarjalepena4405thanks. Didn’t know that was normal. I change oil every 5-7k. Have owned it several nice 33k.
That's what I would change it at with this engine. Just my personal feelings. GM says 7,500-10,000 with synthetic oil and 3,000-5,000 with conventional. My other cars and trucks go to 5,000. Having to go through the aggravation of having stuck piston rings and trying to get them freed up has been miserable. I purchased this car at auction and not running. I knew it dumped the timing chain and destroyed the valves, this is the third or fourth one car I've purchased like this. I purchased a remanufactured head and put it on. The cylinder walls were beautiful, still had the factory hone marks after 120k so I knew the engine was good. It runs perfect now with no smoke or lights on, just guzzles oil as others have the same problem. The flipping low tension piston rings getting stuck. I'm hoping the BG engine cleaning does the trick. It's expensive at $300 but if it frees them up, it's well worth it. I wouldn't even sell it to anyone if it's using that much oil. I won't rip people off.
@@andujarjalepena4405How has the BG engine cleaning worked for the oil control rings?
Daughter has the car at college so I'm not sure if the BG cleared the problem yet. It's only been a couple hundred miles. I was surprised how dirty the BG cleaning oil was being that it had a new head, timing chains and cleaned valve cover. I have hope though.
Does it work for a 2.2 ecotec engine?

Not sure you need it on every ecotec. The Equinox intake is just a screwed up design. Look at some other videos on testing to see if the PCV system is working. It's very easy. If yours is working you don't have to worry.
Works in 2.4 ecotec, saturn ion 07?
That's a totally different intake manifold. Your engine may not have the problem. It's pretty specific to this GM platform. Search a PCV test for your car and test that first. You may be good to go.
So I went out and stated today and everything is the same .How do I know that I did anything to this engine?.
you can test the PCV system by pulling the hose from the valve cover and seeing if there's vacuum. If there's vacuum, the PCV system is fine. I've never heard of anyone having performance issues. The PCV if not working could cause you to push the oil out of the lower main seal and blowing your engine. You can also start the engine and let it idle, pull the oil filler cap off. If it has pressure pushing out, it's plugged for sure. If there is vacuum when you pull the cap the PCV system would seem to be working.
If you used a paper clip, it may go in 3/8" and hit the other side. If you poke around a bit and clean the hole out the paper clip will go in an inch or more.
@@andujarjalepena4405 the paper clip went almost two inches .Another guy said his went the same length.
@@raypalermo1603 it's clear. If it's still plugged and you are building pressure you will have to remove the intake and clean the passages leading to each runner. If you have negative pressure (vacuum) you are golden. Your engine would have to be really bad to plug all the passages leading to the intake runners.
@@raypalermo1603 you can search utube, there are many videos of how to test the PCV system, it's very easy.
I did this Saturday 😏
A thought, an idea that I have not done nor looked into BUT could you "rattle the rings loose" (prior replies of yours stated that your rings were stuck, I'm assuming full of carbon)?
Very low octane(83)/cheap gas in the mountains (I-80, Wyoming?) in a vehicle under load could/would do that (due to detonation?) to an engine that previously did NOT burn oil -- was a very bad thing; people were warned about it if they were lucky).
I used a bunch of question marks and parenthesis and quotes to cover my azz since I have no personal experience of doing so. Maybe a "old-timer local" will chime in, I live east of the Mississippi River.......
These years Ecotec engines are notorious for sticking the low tension rings if you weren't diligent about oil changes. In reference to "rattling them loose", don't know what you mean by that but I did run it on the highway for an hour and a half at 4,000 rpms or more. I think the Valvoline restore and protect engine oil may be working. I haven't seen my daughter in a month but she says it's using less oil. I also did many piston soaks with different chemicals, Did a BG products $300 flush. Nothing even slowed it down. Holding my breath for the restore and protect.
There is a oil cap now to stop it from blowing.
All that does is release the crankcase pressure, which is good but doesn't fix the problem. This gets the PCV system working again. Why have all the oil vapor blowing all over the top of your engine? Will make things messy. Probably get oil vapor on the windshield also. Best to have things working properly. .
I did timing chain I didn’t need to take intake manifold out
Old timing chain broke on mine, had to have the head rebuilt. Flattened all the valves.
A video of how to take it off??
there are many videos showing how to take the manifold off. I'm trying to save you from having to do this by drilling a hole and cleaning without taking it off.
Is this the v6?
No 2.4 4 cylinder.
@@andujarjalepena4405 i have the same one. Thank you for making this video!
You still have to take the intake off to clean the back of the intake valves, since direct injection and all that jazz....
If you go all the way threw you destroyed the intake. It is supposed to breath internally with the ports for the airflow the big ports. Dont do it threw. Its not supposed to go threw.
there is a hole on the other side of the chamber that gets clogged. Just drill through the top side, you will feel the drill go through then stop. The chamber is 1/4 to 1/2" deep. You would have to be drilling like a maniac not to stop after you go through the top. It's only plastic and drills very easily. Lots of guys are enlarging the inner hole from 3/32" (which is factory) to 1/8". I don't recommend doing that but they have posted positive results. Drill your top hole 3/32", same size as the inner orifice. It will drill through in 3 seconds with a low speed drill. Poke around with a small paper clip till you find the clogged hole. The second one I did on another Equinox was really clogged, it was tough to find but was almost a straight shot. Just hardened gook in the hole. You ultimately want to have negative pressure in your crankcase. A vented cap will just give you neutral pressure.
Holly crap ! Did any one see the classic cars in the background. This guy is good......but someone will fuc*k this up for sure.
This really is something anyone can do, it's not hard. The cavity behind is wide open. You could clean it when done and actually put a dab of silicone over the hole, let it dry and it will never get sucked in. The screw is just an easy way to get access to it for keeping it clean in the future. I even thought about hogging a 3/8" (or larger) hole to be able to clean the channels going to each intake runner and then silicone a small plate over the hole. It took 116,000 miles of neglect to gunk up the engine to the point of clogging the hole the first time. I doubt the body will last another 100k with the stinking Pittsburgh salt winters. Thanks for the compliment on the cars.
That open chamber feeds orifices in each intake runner. Those orifices will also clog up, so just remove the intake, and do it right. Under worst condition and poor maintenance, it will clog. I have 100k, no carbon. Use premium oil/filters, premium fuel, and change every 4k miles. It's poor maintenance that is clogging up the PCV system.
I agree that proper maintenance should prevent this, but the peace of mind it gives you actually knowing that hole is clear is well worth the minimal effort and 10 minutes it takes to do this. If you have two or three hours and are used to removing large parts of the engine, then go ahead and do it "the right" way. Some of us bought used cars and we have no idea how well it was maintained. I wouldn't discourage anyone from doing this.
@Andujar Jalepena there is a simple way to test if the port is open, takes 30 seconds. Drilling that hole, does not fix the problem if the small passage ways to each runner are clogged too. I' very seen it many times
@@tssci6774 the hole on mine was plugged and I did shoot brake cleaner through each passage. They were clear. My engine was not well taken care of, I bought it with a jumped timing chain and bent valves. Engine was very dirty inside but I think that orifice may be the smallest point. You have 4 passage ways from each intake runner going to one tiny hole that is the first constriction from the crank case. I would have to cut an intake apart to see how big those 4 passage ways are. I didn't push a wire or anything through the passageways so I guess the brake cleaner was enough to clear anything that may have been in there.
GM is currently under class action lawsuit for the pcv hole clogging from ice. Places that these engines are running in freezing weather and only running for short periods can cause the hole to freeze. Proper maintenance can’t protect you from shit engineering design.
@Cory Allen hey DA, it requires both the internal orifice to clog with carbon and for large amount of the internal catch can to fill with oil and moisture, to cause high pressure. It takes years to block the orifice, and weeks to build up excessive gunk in the upper hose. Takes two seconds to check both. No excuse.
What size sheet metal screw is recommended? Thank you so much for this idea 💡!!
I drilled a 1/8” hole. The inner hole is 3/32 (slightly smaller). I just grabbed a screw from my box of misfit screws and put one in. Doesn’t have to be a sheet metal screw. You could plug it with a dab of silicone if you wanted. Just don’t get a screw too long or it will thread right into the inner hole. Kinda defeats the purpose.
I can't understand why GM dealerships are not using a method like this!!
They get $600 to pull an intake and clean the hole. They get a lot more when the dipstick tube breaks off in the rust belt.
wow
easy peasy
But i saw all the cars in the background and knew it was legit
thank you, I always look through the comments to determine if something is worth it. I just put the info out there after struggling to get the intake off. Up here in the rust belt, the dipstick tubes get rusty and mine felt like it was going to snap after bending it out of the way to get the final clearance to remove the intake. Hope this helps you like it has many others.
Could someone that has done this share the dimensions? Someone that has removed their intake manifold and drilled through the back, measure where the hole came through on the front of the manifold? That center hole where you would screw the manifold back on to the engine would be ideal!
There is an open cavity behind the hole you drill. Even if it is slightly off, you will find the plugged up orifice.
One important question is do you know JESUS CHRIST AS YOUR PERSONAL LORD AND SAVIOR?
yes I do, was immersed into Jesus the Christ in 1996, how about you?