I feel very blessed to have found this channel. Me and my sisters took cuttings from the roses at our late parents garden today. Everyone warned us it would be very difficult but I feel like I am in good hands here on this channel.
Jason, I learn so much from you. I appreciate your logical approach and explanations. Many times I rewatch your videos and take notes. 🤓 As and old lady, retired biology teacher, I enjoy how you employ and explain the science behind your methods. Some very good questions are asked in the comments and you take the time to respond. You explain the biology behind your methods (and make it easy for those who may have no scientific background.) My love for roses drew me to your channel. Thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge with little “duffer” hobbyists like me. Your channel is one of my favorites. Sending blessings and prayers for success your way.
Using what I learnt from you so far with some cuttings from a jostaberry shrub that is very old (25 years I think) and on its last legs. In its prime, it produced a lot of fruit with benign neglect on my part. To my delight, all 4 cuttings have taken it seems (planted maybe 4 weeks ago) and I confess to being a bit anxious about pulling them out to look at the roots. This video helps, thx.
These are really helpful videos and you do a great job of explaining things for us amateurs. Much of this can apply to cuttings in general to help us learn how to tell what is working, or not. Thank you!
My first foray into cuttings, Camilla bush flowers, was looking a little bleak... I was inspecting for the callus or roots in an uncertain manner... Then this video appeared in my feed, and it told me everything I need to know to be confident checking my Camilla's. Plus instead of using a plastic bag I'm going to invest in one plastic bin. My dream vacation would be a week helping you in the farm! I'm quite ill now, iatrogenic illness, but puttering in my garden makes me forget, what I'm outside with things to do, I feel quite normal. Your channel is important to me, and just like the retired biology teacher above, I also am a scientist, of molecular biology, and greatly appreciate your science experiments.
I like your videos,more better at explaining things,I like Mike concaid aswell but your better at explaining.both of ye are are a credit to the profession
Thank you very much for all your advice. I am new to roses but also learning lots tons of propagation tips and tricks in general. Cheers from Australia :)
UPDATE: I use the gentle exploratory tug you show us and it turns out some of my Camillas a DID tug back so I'm super excited and motivated to start more!! -+-+-+ My first foray into cuttings, Camilla bush flowers, was looking a little bleak... I was inspecting for the callus or roots in an uncertain manner... Then this video i had missed appeared in my feed, and it told me everything I need to know to be confident checking my Camilla's. YAAY ✨. My dream vacation would be a week helping you on the farm! Your channel is important to me, and just like the retired biology teacher above, I also am a scientist, of molecular biology, and greatly appreciate your science experiments.
Thanks for a bundle of nitty gritty info. It feels like you are taking us along the ‘adventure’. My semi softwood cuttings as per your other videos are doing great ( all cold Hardy Mordens and Explorers). Surprisingly successful are my ground layered propagated roses...they are extremely healthy and blooms opened his week. Hopefully your roses will do fine with this weeks unprecedented heat wave. Nature is fantastic but can also show her power.
Thanks Tom. They're definitely suffering a bit in the heat, but only one more day until more reasonable weather. Good to hear about your ground layered roses - interesting method!
Thank you for this video! I'm attempting to root cuttings from one of my favorite roses, and was seeing the yellowing leaves. I thought maybe my rose had a virus or something, so I'm really happy to discover that it's normal!
Thanks so much for this Jason! As a newbie I’ve found rooting failures to be such a dis-heartening thing. You wait and wait, every day imagining these little roots growing, only to eventually watch the stems rot. It’s all the more frustrating because the top growth had continued throughout. Having said that, the joy of seeing good root growth, even on a small, but growing, percentage of cuttings, makes it all worth while. Thanks again! 🌹
I decided to take cuttings from some pretty roses (they were growing out of bounds of the person's garden so it's fair game) just to try this for the first time and I didn't know what signs to look for. I very carefully pulled one of my cuttings out of the soil, I didn't know if it was ok or would it insta-kill it and i saw white crystally stuff on it. I was afraid it's some fungal disease but I'm happy to know my roses are on the right track. Thanks for the video ❤
I’ve never had any of my cutting callous, they root pretty good though. I actually have an Eden rose cutting that is only about 14 days in.. with roots & several new branches covered in leaves already.. very healthy cane I’m assuming 💐 have a safe & blessed week Jason
Some days ago my neighbor was going to throw away the roses she received for Mothers Day, so I showed her how to make two cuttings , put them on a jar with water, and wait one or two days before planting them. I forgot about them, and today she phoned me to tell me she was noticing something new on the cuttings. Sure enough, they were still on the jar and both had a shooting about an inch long, coming out with a few leaves and after watching this video, I looked for the roots, but there were none ! We planted them on small pots, and wait to see what happens !
Hi Benjamin - I've only casually cut roses for bouquets, so I haven't paid a lot of attention to which ones make long-lasting cuts. I'll see if I can gather some recommendations and put a list together.
Dy-no-mite!!!!! Thanks so much Jason! I'm still struggling with cuttings - but so far have not used a heat mat NOR have I used the plastic cover - I feared causing fungal growth. I've had s spotty success with my novice cuttings - very grateful - as I am for everything that you present on your uniquely masterful channel) for this step by step plan. One of my worries has been exactly the "check or not check?" problem - will now gently check for callusing. It seems much better to me for learning and for rooting to check on the calluses to make the changes needed to improve rooting. I do wonder how you do with fungal growth - looks like its not a major problem for your methods. Warmest regards Jennie
Thanks Jennie. It's always a balance of moisture. You want enough to keep the cuttings from drying out before rooting, but if you keep them too wet, the rot organisms get the upper hand.
Very helpful and informative. I've got a few cuttings on the go and I've noticed a lot of new growth after about 6 weeks. I decided to check and they have no roots whatsoever 🤔🤔🤔
I’m in zone 8B. It is 1st of July, 2024. I have rooted some hydrangea cuttings in small clear cups, and put into a clear plastic container for moisture. I can tell lots have rooted when I gently tug on them. My question is when do I put the tinder rooted plants into larger pots, and what do I do with them through the winter?
This is great stuff, Jason. I feel like I've signed up for a class, but it was free. I bought a high tunnel this year so I want to try this. I'll probably be doing Hydrangeas but I thing the process would be close to what your teaching us.
Really inspiring work, Jason! Just wondering if you could include the month/season in your vids so we in the other hemisphere can interpret them correctly... 😉
I'll look to do so - although in this case, the method applies to any time you can find semi-hardwood growth on your roses (which is a pretty long window in a mild climate). I usually get going in mid/late spring, just as I'm seeing the first strong flush of roses for the year.
This is a great video. Just wondering how often do you uncover the plastic cover to check on cuttings? How do you know when it is appropriate to do so? Thanks!
I am still struggling heavily with the moisture of the soil. Either too much or too little. And most cuttings still die of rotting. I am now trying a mix of sand and perlite. See how that goes.
If they are rotting it's definitely too much water and/or not good drainage so that will probably help a good bit. Try using a spray bottle and spritzing them instead of watering them outright or leave a couple leaves on and only water them when they look like they are starting to wilt. When it's cooler outside I put a Ziploc bag with one corner cut off over the top of my pots and usually only water them once really well when I first start them unless I see they are totally dry. I don't put any of mine in direct sunlight so they don't typically dry out with the bags on them. I had a lot of trial and error when I started rooting cuttings, but those are things that I've found work for me. In my experience, it's better to let them dry out a little vs overwatering. It actually isn't a bad thing to let them dry out some once they have roots bc they grow a stronger root system instead of a bunch of near the surface roots. I totally get it though. That's why I don't grow succulents bc I love them to death. Literally.💀😂
@@cindycook679 Help! I've tried 2 sets of spruce/pine cuttings with no success so far. First 10 cuttings was low height mother cuts, liquid rooting horomone, indoors in potting soil no lights but decent indirect light half with plastic covering half without. All died. Next was 10 cuttings all with plastic covering in pure pearlite and very dilute liquid nutrients. 4 weeks all but one cutting all brown, dead and mold developing. On the one cutting that still has green needles no roots have formed.
I can't help myself😂 I usually just give them a little tug to see if there is any resistance. If there isn't when I think there should be I'll pull them up and see if I need to recut them bc they are rotted or whatever other issue there might be if any and dip them in rooting hormone before I replant them. I usually try everything without it first though except for roses. I always use it on them.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks so much Jason. I very much appreciate your timely responses and advice. Perhaps, as soon as Canada reopens her borders, my wife and I will plan a trip to visit the area and your rose farm. Warren
I've started using trays that are clear, so I can just lift it out of its base and look for root growth, but just for me and my acreage, I'm not a business or anything
I hope I understand your questions right. The spent flowers are no advantage to the plant, and can be deadheaded freely even on younger shrubs. I sometimes take cuttings from young plants as well - it depends on how well they're establishing and whether I think they can "spare" the stem I'm taking off.
Thank you, Jason. We have -17°f winters up here and the 5 roses i planted last year had to tough it out through a really cold Spring (even with heavy mulch). I just wanted to make sure i gave these beauties the best start possible. 'Neptune', 'Francis Meilland' and 'Sugar Moon' have turned out to be stunning. My 'Oh Happy Day' is not the apricot color advertised, but pretty nontheless. Thank you again for your expert advice. The internet community is lucky you're here. 🌹
Hi Arthur. In my climate (despite the current heat-wave) I wouldn't hesitate to prune now on a well-established rose. It depends on your area quite a lot. I'd generally prefer early summer over fall unless you're in a punishingly warm summer area.
I check and I ruin some or at least slow them down by breaking off a percentage of roots. For other cuttings I've had boxwood develop 1 to 3 ⅛" roots in 11 months and sweet potato made ¼-½" roots in 20 hours.
Thanks for sharing! I've been having a hard time finding slips or seed potatoes and have been feeling pretty tempted to take cuttings from the 2 sweet potatoes I have growing. Sounds like I've been wasting time thinking about it.
@@boprosplumbing I don't have room for a bundle of 25 mail order so I buy a 4 or 6 pack in a garden center and unlike other veggies or annuals where I get short stocky and branchy, get the tallest ones. Then take long cuttings to above a bottom leaf. The leaves get cut in half to reduce transpiration. I rooted the latest in water outside at 88° . Roots at all internodes gave 2 or 3 rooted pieces per plant plus the rooted original. The rooted stem tip and mid cuttings go in shade until they get more roots to supply the top. Some others get planted just as they are and laid out sideways to root further along the stem. Of course if you plant the sweet potato as is you get the benefit of a rooted plant with plenty of leaves to make food for the newly damageg root system. You get quick top growth and length and take extra cuttings a little later.
@@johnc6228 awesome, thanks for the pointers, took a screen shot, I'll be giving it a try, my 2 donators have a few vines like 2-3 ft long, so they're ready. Do you use hormone or are they setting roots that fast without?
@@boprosplumbing No hormone necessary. I rooted them outdoors because it was a very hot week and the water stayed warm a long time even at night. You can use soil but it's harder to control wilting. The roots can get long fast but the 3" or longer succulent water roots don't transplant well and need more attention. Cooler water and night temps slow it down. For growing vegetable and bedding plants, cool nighttime temperatures in relation to daytime, called the negative differential keeps plants shorter and stockier but in this case the warm day and night together speeds up the root formation of sweet potato, basil and Coleus, or germination of Marigold, Zinnia or cucumber seeds for example.
Jason I always enjoy your videos. I have a backyard with a fair amount of shade, not a deep shade more partial. Are there any roses that would manage to thrive and flourish in this situation? Thanks for sharing your passion for roses.👍❤️😊
Hi Carmen. Have a look at the hybrid musks and ramblers - each of those groups contains roses that do well in part shade. I grow the repeat-blooming rambler Ghislaine de Feligonde in fairly deep shade actually.
Jason, I am hooked on cuttings. I started last summer so am a newbie lol. I've been doing lantana hydrangea petunia, buttery fly bush. Sorry I've never been a fan of roses, I like the flowers but dislike the look of the bush and the thorns. Have you ever heard of the root maker pots?. I've heard 2-3 great reviews about them. You get a lot faster start and air prunes the young roots to form more
Thanks RandyI love your plant choices, and I'm so happy that's you've been enjoying propagation. The Rootmaker products look interesting. I've tried a few "air pruning" type products in the past, and I haven't been overwhelmed by the results, but you can always hope that the newest/best design will make a noticeable difference.
Thanks to your advice I have managed to propagate 5 lavendar cuttings, so thank you, I feel very pleased with myself 😀 They all have roots on now and I was wondering where I should keep them now, should they be inside or outside, in full sun or partial sun whilst I grow them on?
Ho Kathy. Congratulations! I suggest you transition them to outdoor gardening conditions - it might take a "hardening off" period of up to a week in a bit of shade/shelter to see how they react.
As soon as you confirm callus/early rooting, you can begin to transition away from high humidity. I check the domes daily to see if they need a bit of mist, but don't do a proper watering until they're rooted.
"Humility Dome"? Sounds like something from a Isaac Asimov novel. I just used one of my mom's totes, cutting go in for a few weeks before I check on things.. so far so good. Warm Humid conditions seem to work wonders for cuttings, just keep the tote out of direct sunlight..! I've made that mistake..
Excellent comparison of the varieties and indoor verses outdoor, as well as the interesting development from the new liquid hormone (very curious). Do you do Camellia cuttings? If so, what types of hormone do you prefer for highest success?
Thanks so much. I haven't tried camellia yet - but from the instructions I've seen, it looks like it takes a medium/high rate of hormone (somewhere between .4% and 1.0%) and it still is relatively slow to root.
Hello. I'm new to propagating and learning a TON from your channel. thank you. Would you point me to a video that shows what to do next? Once the cuttings have roots? Do you up pot them? assuming yes, but want to verify. thanks again for sharing!
Thank you for another great video. I have a weird question, I took a mental note about your comment on hoping that the end of the cutting would callous. Could you cauterize the end of the cutting and bypass the wait for it to callous?
Thanks. The idea of cauterizing the cut almost seems to arise from a comparison to injury in animal tissue, where bleeding needs to be stopped. When taking a cutting for propagation, the node is chosen because you're trying to expose parenchyma (think stem cell) tissue that will create undifferentiated (callus) tissue, then roots. If you used heat to "seal" the end, you would presumably damage the exposed parenchyma cells, and delay true callus formation.
im like you i like to peek but havnt done it recently im in hawaii n usually just take cuttings n stick them in a pot n it roots but recently its been so hot that im not too successful maybe i will try your humidity tray i have a bunch of clear plastic totes very informative video thank you
Hi Fraser!! I took some cuttings to propagate for the 1st time and only 1 survive. We have her for a year now in a nice big container from Costco, healthy foliage, new growth and she now has 3 cane. My question is, I’ve not seen any budding or rose yet.. is it possible to have healthy rose plant with no rose?
Help! I've tried 2 sets of spruce/pine cuttings with no success so far. First 10 cuttings was low height mother cuts, liquid rooting horomone, indoors in potting soil no lights but decent indirect light half with plastic covering half without. All died. Next was 10 cuttings all with plastic covering in pure pearlite and very dilute liquid nutrients. 4 weeks all but one cutting all brown, dead and mold developing. On the one cutting that still has green needles no roots have formed.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I haven't done too much with conifers yet. I toured a facility, and it looked like they went with the "low and slow" approach. Low temperatures, part shade, infrequent mist, good air circulation. They said it would take months for some varieties to root.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Hmmmm thanks for the tips. I definitely cooked them outside then and did not have enough air flow. I read must be high humidity greenhouse type environment. I also may have taken the cutting wrong not leaving a node at the bottom. I don't have temperature controlled area for plants yet so. Cool. On to try 3 I suppose.
Thanks for asking. We came through the heat all right - a little bit of plant damage is nothing compared to what the folks up in Lytton had to deal with.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I can imagine, truly. Pigeon Forge, about an hour away from us, burned down a few years ago. It was devastating. I'm glad you are well, though.
Just pulled my golden shrimp cuttings and they are rooting. Here in southwest Florida my cuttings can take up to 6 weeks to root. Ideas? Also any suggestions for Rose's that can take this heat and humidity
Hi Kenneth. I made a video about roses in warmer climates, and some of the recommendations might work for you: th-cam.com/video/trejh_2m9uM/w-d-xo.html
Gentle air flow (or at least decent vent holes in a humidity dome) are a good idea. Watch the moisture level in the potting soil to start - it doesn't need to be soaking wet.
In a colder climate (Zone3-4) with a short growing season (May-Sept if I’m lucky) would you still go with semi-hardwood cuttings or would you go with a different type of cutting? I’m concerned that they wont get enough time to become established before the cold weather hits as a semi-hardwood cutting. My roses I want to propagate only have the first couple varieties getting to the semi-hardwood stage - others have a long way to go yet.
Hi Robert. You can always try softwood cuttings - they're not too different in method. In fact, many times when I'm taking the semi hardwood, I slip in a few softwood cuttings (from higher up the stem) and have reasonable success rooting them.
Hi Jason, Some of my rose cuttings have turned black after forming callus. They are in a humidity dome under a grow light. Some of them are there for 3 weeks and some are for 12 days. My room temperature is always 18/19 degree C. Should I use a heat mat? If so what temperature should I set the heat mat to? Please advice.
Turning black is usually a sign of rot. This is probably oversimplifying, but when you see your cuttings go black it usally means there was too much moisture in the humidity dome or soil. If it goes brown and dry, it means too little - and if you get it just right, it stays green. A heating mat can speed things along - the usual temperature of approx. 75f or 23c is okay.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much! As you said that turning black from the bottom means there is too much moisture in the soil, will the heating pad help reducing some moisture? I have made couple of holes in my humidity dome. Should I keep the heating pad on all day or for certain number of hours?
A pretty stable temperature in the low 20's (C) is fine. The heating pad may help to evaporate some of the moisture over time, but mainly it's there to encourage faster root development so that there isn't time for the rot to take hold. Your better bet is just to introduce less water into the potting medium or choose a lighter propagation mix (maybe with a higher % of perlite)
Jason, I do have a question NOT on the topic here. That is - cleaning pruning shears between roses. I've been washing w soap and water then applying alcohol - not the best obviously. I purchased a product called Green Shield that is sold to greenhouses- its an "Alkyl" quaternary based disinfectant. But when I received the container and looked at the warnings - YIKES! over the top poisonous to people, causes severe burns to the skin, aquatic poison with long lasting effects according to the label. ( I live on a lake). Am I over reacting? Thanks for your wise advice in advance if you happen to see and answer this question. Yours very truly Jennie
This is what I could find that seemed the most "on point" to your concerns: www.thehcpa.org/hcpa-responds-to-concerns-about-the-safety-of-quat-disinfectants/ I think many warnings are there to cover legal liability, and to make you cautious. Caution is a good thing - but used as directed, they're relatively safe.
Hi Jason. I took a cutting of one of my ownroot roses and stick it into the root riot plug and kept I inside a humidity dome indoor under the grow light. Exactly after 2 days while I was checking all my cuttings I tugged this one and I felt it was resisting. I did not expect this cutting to form roots within 2 days only, so I pulled it out and saw it has already formed tiny white roots. I dipped it in Dip n Grow rooting hormone and carefully put it back inside the root riot plug. Then 6 days have passed and I am not seeing any root popping out from the plug yet. Will this cutting grow roots or it won’t since I pulled it out ?
Jason, my cuttings are callousing but don’t seem to be setting down roots. Some of these cuttings have had callousing for nearly a month and it seems like they are either stagnating or the callousing is just slowly getting bigger. What might be causing this? I have them in humidity dome inside by a window which isn’t super bright by any means and my home is a bit cool maybe 65-70 degrees most days. If the cuttings are too cold will the callousing be slow to send actual roots down?
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm it’s possible they had too much rooting hormone left on them initially. There’s not visible rooting hormone still on the stem and I’ve not reapplied it. Do you suggest rinsing them with distilled water to get off any residual rooting hormone? Or else what should I do?
Do you think checking on them too frequently might cause this? I don’t know how long I’m supposed to go between checking them it’s not every single day for every single stem but it’s often multiple times a week. I’ve been trying to abstain recently lifting out the ones with the most callousing and checked on them after leaving them undisturbed for a full week and the callous is just larger
Not a problem: yellowing of leaves is a pretty normal reaction to plant stress. It means the stem has decided to pull back nutrients from the leaves to conserve resources, and is often followed by leaf-drop. If you maintain the newly cut stem in reduced light and sufficient humidity, it reduces stress, and can delay or even avoid this reaction altogether. If the leaf does yellow and fall, it doesn't mean your cutting will fail for sure: it can still develop callus and roots in the meanwhile, and then send up new leaf shoots.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much! There is so much to learn from you channel, and you explain things very well. Its like being a research assistant and learning in the field.😀
I use promix at time with good success. It depends on the kind of cutting you want to take - I prefer semi-hardwood active season cuttings, and in my climate those are usually in late May onward.
Can you plant the cuttings into the place where they supposed to end up directly or do you always have to put them in the small black pots before? Also do you always need to put a greenhouse over it ? Since I don’t have one my first cuttings don’t have it I’m worried now they won’t work
I do it this way because it improves my chances - I'm sure you can find a way to propagate directly in the ground, but I like better control of the growing conditions.
Curious exactly what potting mix you use with the best success for rooting? I used pro-mix (organic) small bale recently that has mycorrhizae included and it seems all my stems rotted within a couple weeks. Have you done any experiments with adding osmocote to the propagation mix to provide the cuttings some nutrients when they start to root?
I've always found extra nutrients to decrease my chances of success. I've used promix with the BX, and it seems to cause no problems for me (on roses) - overall, promix and sunshine mix give me good consistent results.
Why are you using domes since you said misting with bottom heat is best, cause i also moved away from domes to timed mist since the pros use mist for best results
Good question. I have 3 answers, all particular to my situation: 1) I just need more propagation space right away. It's not a matter of either/or - I'm doing both. 2) Many TH-cam viewers have responded that they don't want to (or can't) set up timed mist. To keep making prop videos where I only discuss timed mist would be excluding those viewers. 3) There are some advantages to the controlled environment of indoors. Early in the season, when I'm still getting very cold nights, or like now, when we're going through a heat wave - my greenhouse temperatures fluctuate wildly. I deal with it, but it's also nice to have a more stable, controllable environment to alternate into.
This was also my exact question. I grow seedlings indoors over the winter, and now all the cuttings are under mist outside. I was wondering, should I also be doing them indoors?
I find using a heat mat ‘faster’ but not always better. An aside: I go to he thrift store and buy heating pads for humans. They are usually $2 or so and have thermostats. I find just ‘a touch’ of heat best for rose cuttings ( higher heat for annual seeds, etc).
My position would be (I don't propagate roses): what are you going to do differently next time when seeing failure? If you want to know what your cuttings are up to: pull them up. However, failed cuttings will become apparent soon enough. And I definitely don't go there davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/51789/ It appears that there are two roses of the same name, developed by two different growers, introduced at about the same time. One has been identified in the literature as an alba, the other a damask. The one I am familiar with, found growing in many old gardens and cemeteries in the Central New York area is the damask.
Thanks Theo. Yeah, there's a lot of information on Helpmefind about 'Koenigen van Danemark' - and even though it's still mainly referred to as an Alba, it's parentage has been questionable from the start. "Atypical Alba" is one quote. Some just dump it into the class of Centifolia because of presumed mixed Damask parentage. On the topic of the video, I'm sure my overall patience level shapes my approach - but I do like the more timely feedback. When I'm able to see the atypical callus formation (as on 'Topaz Jewel') it tips me off to a) check my rates on the rooting hormone, and b) give another try to the technique of scoring cuttings. If I'd just left them to root, that's information I wouldn't know. In the case of 'Koenigen' I'm sure you're right - I would have seen a widespread failure in the variety within a matter of weeks. And I would have wondered if I did something wrong with moisture or lighting along the way somewhere. However, now that I've checked the tray and found brown bases on virtually all of the cuttings within the first 7 days (and because I'm still near enough to those 7 days to recall the conditions with certainty) I feel pretty comfortable in concluding the growth stage/hormonal balance of the cuttings is the likely cause. I'm sure a patient, meticulous grower could find a way to draw the same conclusions without looking at the base of the cuttings. For me, the timely hands-on feedback is a part of the learning process.
Hi Jason, I have a plant propagation book that claims that Floribundas and Hybrid Teas can't be propagated via cuttings. Something about a weak root system - I'm not sure if this means they won't root at all, or just won't become robust plants on their own roots. Frankly I'm not 100% sure what kinds of roses I have, but I suspect they are in the above categories. What are your thoughts on this? If it's a big topic, maybe you could do a video on it? Thanks!
Thanks. I've dealt with the topic as part of the own-root vs. grafted debate: th-cam.com/video/ADu5d0Jt4GQ/w-d-xo.html And it's true that some HTs and Floribundas were never really selected for vigor on their own roots. I can name a few that I've tried repeatedly from cuttings - to have them fail to root, or fail to perform well on their own roots. Distant Drums. Nostalgie. Double Delight. Maybe a few others. On the other hand, there are dozens that I produce regularly on their own roots that range from good to excellent on their own roots.
Dont check the cutting. Dont pull on them or move them. I have lost all my cutting, they callused and i put them back in the soil, but lost all of them. For us who grow rose cuttings in an home environment and not a nursery environment defently dont pull on them or touch or move them. Please be patient. I am now on my second lot of cuttings and they are 18 days old and doing great. I put in 50 and so far only 5 have died. I live in south Africa and we are in the heart of summer, very hot weather. I found a spot in the garden that only has shade and they are growing amazingly.
Good to hear about your success Irene! As a matter of preference, I'm going to keep on pulling and checking for roots - it gives me all sorts of timely feedback that I wouldn't have otherwise.
I feel very blessed to have found this channel. Me and my sisters took cuttings from the roses at our late parents garden today. Everyone warned us it would be very difficult but I feel like I am in good hands here on this channel.
Fascinating as always. It’s exciting for me when a cutting takes, understanding the process is really helpful, thanks Jason.
That's fantastic as always Jason, thank you for your thoroughness and being able to talk to the 'layman' in terms we understand. Much appreciated.
Very much my pleasure. Thanks for watching
A timely video for me as I JUST started some cuttings today after watching the previous video about rooting cuttings. TY! Love the videos. 👏
Thanks Linda.
Jason, I learn so much from you.
I appreciate your logical approach and explanations. Many times I rewatch your videos and take notes. 🤓 As and old lady, retired biology teacher, I enjoy how you employ and explain the science behind your methods.
Some very good questions are asked in the comments and you take the time to respond. You explain the biology behind your methods (and make it easy for those who may have no scientific background.)
My love for roses drew me to your channel. Thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge with little “duffer” hobbyists like me.
Your channel is one of my favorites.
Sending blessings and prayers for success your way.
Thanks so much for your thoughtful comments Evlyne!
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you for responding. ☺️
Thanks so much for your videos. They are clear, concise, and very valuable to someone like me who is just starting to experiment with cuttings.
Thanks Colleen - and happy to hear you enjoying the hobby!
Using what I learnt from you so far with some cuttings from a jostaberry shrub that is very old (25 years I think) and on its last legs. In its prime, it produced a lot of fruit with benign neglect on my part. To my delight, all 4 cuttings have taken it seems (planted maybe 4 weeks ago) and I confess to being a bit anxious about pulling them out to look at the roots. This video helps, thx.
Happy to hear you putting your skills towards saving this old shrub!
These are really helpful videos and you do a great job of explaining things for us amateurs. Much of this can apply to cuttings in general to help us learn how to tell what is working, or not. Thank you!
Thanks Linda. That's what I'm hoping for! I appreciate the feedback
Yes, I’ll 2nd what Linda said! Much appreciated info in your videos.
My first foray into cuttings, Camilla bush flowers, was looking a little bleak... I was inspecting for the callus or roots in an uncertain manner... Then this video appeared in my feed, and it told me everything I need to know to be confident checking my Camilla's. Plus instead of using a plastic bag I'm going to invest in one plastic bin. My dream vacation would be a week helping you in the farm!
I'm quite ill now, iatrogenic illness, but puttering in my garden makes me forget, what I'm outside with things to do, I feel quite normal. Your channel is important to me, and just like the retired biology teacher above, I also am a scientist, of molecular biology, and greatly appreciate your science experiments.
I like your videos,more better at explaining things,I like Mike concaid aswell but your better at explaining.both of ye are are a credit to the profession
Thanks so much Martin!
Thank you very much for all your advice. I am new to roses but also learning lots tons of propagation tips and tricks in general. Cheers from Australia :)
UPDATE: I use the gentle exploratory tug you show us and it turns out some of my Camillas a DID tug back so I'm super excited and motivated to start more!!
-+-+-+
My first foray into cuttings, Camilla bush flowers, was looking a little bleak... I was inspecting for the callus or roots in an uncertain manner... Then this video i had missed appeared in my feed, and it told me everything I need to know to be confident checking my Camilla's. YAAY ✨. My dream vacation would be a week helping you on the farm!
Your channel is important to me, and just like the retired biology teacher above, I also am a scientist, of molecular biology, and greatly appreciate your science experiments.
Thanks so much - and I'm super excited for your success with camelia cuttings!
Thanks for a bundle of nitty gritty info. It feels like you are taking us along the ‘adventure’. My semi softwood cuttings as per your other videos are doing great ( all cold Hardy Mordens and Explorers).
Surprisingly successful are my ground layered propagated roses...they are extremely healthy and blooms opened his week.
Hopefully your roses will do fine with this weeks unprecedented heat wave. Nature is fantastic but can also show her power.
Thanks Tom. They're definitely suffering a bit in the heat, but only one more day until more reasonable weather. Good to hear about your ground layered roses - interesting method!
Thank you for this video! I'm attempting to root cuttings from one of my favorite roses, and was seeing the yellowing leaves. I thought maybe my rose had a virus or something, so I'm really happy to discover that it's normal!
Thanks so much for this Jason! As a newbie I’ve found rooting failures to be such a dis-heartening thing. You wait and wait, every day imagining these little roots growing, only to eventually watch the stems rot. It’s all the more frustrating because the top growth had continued throughout.
Having said that, the joy of seeing good root growth, even on a small, but growing, percentage of cuttings, makes it all worth while.
Thanks again! 🌹
I am not sure how brave I will be pulling them up...but it is really good to know that you can do that and still get good rooting.
I decided to take cuttings from some pretty roses (they were growing out of bounds of the person's garden so it's fair game) just to try this for the first time and I didn't know what signs to look for.
I very carefully pulled one of my cuttings out of the soil, I didn't know if it was ok or would it insta-kill it and i saw white crystally stuff on it. I was afraid it's some fungal disease but I'm happy to know my roses are on the right track. Thanks for the video ❤
Update, ALL of the rose cuttings rooted and are 100% healthy and growing lots of leaves.
Really enjoy your channel. Started gardening in my 50s. So trying to cram info. Thanks for your help.
I really enjoying your propagation videos..thank you..blessings
This video is exactly what I needed, a god send like always, thanks Jason ✨❤️🔥
I’ve never had any of my cutting callous, they root pretty good though. I actually have an Eden rose cutting that is only about 14 days in.. with roots & several new branches covered in leaves already.. very healthy cane I’m assuming 💐 have a safe & blessed week Jason
Very nice. Just think of callous as a very early stage of rooting - they all go through that stage, and the faster the better!
Great information and channel
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
I have a humidity dome as well and I’m having hells trouble with my buddleia cuttings.. they’re wilting rotting.
Some days ago my neighbor was going to throw away the roses she received for Mothers Day, so I showed her how to make two cuttings , put them on a jar with water, and wait one or two days before planting them. I forgot about them, and today she phoned me to tell me she was noticing something new on the cuttings. Sure enough, they were still on the jar and both had a shooting about an inch long, coming out with a few leaves and after watching this video, I looked for the roots, but there were none ! We planted them on small pots, and wait to see what happens !
Good luck!
Could you please share you favorite long lasting cutting roses? Thanks
Hi Benjamin - I've only casually cut roses for bouquets, so I haven't paid a lot of attention to which ones make long-lasting cuts. I'll see if I can gather some recommendations and put a list together.
Very informative video 🙏🏾
Dy-no-mite!!!!! Thanks so much Jason! I'm still struggling with cuttings - but so far have not used a heat mat NOR have I used the plastic cover - I feared causing fungal growth.
I've had s spotty success with my novice cuttings - very grateful - as I am for everything that you present on your uniquely masterful channel) for this step by step plan.
One of my worries has been exactly the "check or not check?" problem - will now gently check for callusing.
It seems much better to me for learning and for rooting to check on the calluses to make the changes needed to improve rooting.
I do wonder how you do with fungal growth - looks like its not a major problem for your methods.
Warmest regards
Jennie
Thanks Jennie. It's always a balance of moisture. You want enough to keep the cuttings from drying out before rooting, but if you keep them too wet, the rot organisms get the upper hand.
Very helpful and informative. I've got a few cuttings on the go and I've noticed a lot of new growth after about 6 weeks. I decided to check and they have no roots whatsoever 🤔🤔🤔
Thank you for making this video!
My pleasure Javier.
I’m in zone 8B. It is 1st of July, 2024. I have rooted some hydrangea cuttings in small clear cups, and put into a clear plastic container for moisture. I can tell lots have rooted when I gently tug on them. My question is when do I put the tinder rooted plants into larger pots, and what do I do with them through the winter?
So helpful. Thank you.
My pleasure.
This is great stuff, Jason. I feel like I've signed up for a class, but it was free. I bought a high tunnel this year so I want to try this. I'll probably be doing Hydrangeas but I thing the process would be close to what your teaching us.
Really inspiring work, Jason!
Just wondering if you could include the month/season in your vids so we in the other hemisphere can interpret them correctly... 😉
I'll look to do so - although in this case, the method applies to any time you can find semi-hardwood growth on your roses (which is a pretty long window in a mild climate). I usually get going in mid/late spring, just as I'm seeing the first strong flush of roses for the year.
This is a great video. Just wondering how often do you uncover the plastic cover to check on cuttings? How do you know when it is appropriate to do so? Thanks!
I've worked into a routine of checking each day to mist and look for rooting at the same time.
I am still struggling heavily with the moisture of the soil. Either too much or too little. And most cuttings still die of rotting. I am now trying a mix of sand and perlite. See how that goes.
If they are rotting it's definitely too much water and/or not good drainage so that will probably help a good bit. Try using a spray bottle and spritzing them instead of watering them outright or leave a couple leaves on and only water them when they look like they are starting to wilt. When it's cooler outside I put a Ziploc bag with one corner cut off over the top of my pots and usually only water them once really well when I first start them unless I see they are totally dry. I don't put any of mine in direct sunlight so they don't typically dry out with the bags on them. I had a lot of trial and error when I started rooting cuttings, but those are things that I've found work for me. In my experience, it's better to let them dry out a little vs overwatering. It actually isn't a bad thing to let them dry out some once they have roots bc they grow a stronger root system instead of a bunch of near the surface roots. I totally get it though. That's why I don't grow succulents bc I love them to death. Literally.💀😂
@@cindycook679
Help! I've tried 2 sets of spruce/pine cuttings with no success so far. First 10 cuttings was low height mother cuts, liquid rooting horomone, indoors in potting soil no lights but decent indirect light half with plastic covering half without. All died. Next was 10 cuttings all with plastic covering in pure pearlite and very dilute liquid nutrients. 4 weeks all but one cutting all brown, dead and mold developing. On the one cutting that still has green needles no roots have formed.
I’ve tried rooting roses and failed a few different ways. Maybe someday I can get it down, I have no issues rooting most plants.
Thanks - well if you've succeeded with other cuttings, I'm sure it's just a matter of trial and error before you lock down roses as well.
I can't help myself😂 I usually just give them a little tug to see if there is any resistance. If there isn't when I think there should be I'll pull them up and see if I need to recut them bc they are rotted or whatever other issue there might be if any and dip them in rooting hormone before I replant them. I usually try everything without it first though except for roses. I always use it on them.
i always check, i have an old knife in my garden tools, so i can gently work them up
I don't check coz I feel like I might kill it or might damage the roots or something..... but I wanna check tho .... I'm just anxious...
Once again, thanks for another awesome educational video. What time, or stage of development are these cuttings made?
Semi hardwood. In most cases, from the stem just below the flowers at the time of bud/bloom
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks so much Jason. I very much appreciate your timely responses and advice.
Perhaps, as soon as Canada reopens her borders, my wife and I will plan a trip to visit the area and your rose farm. Warren
I've started using trays that are clear, so I can just lift it out of its base and look for root growth, but just for me and my acreage, I'm not a business or anything
Also wondering if i should leave the roses on bareroot roses planted this spring. And if i can cut roses planted last Spring. Thanks.
I hope I understand your questions right. The spent flowers are no advantage to the plant, and can be deadheaded freely even on younger shrubs. I sometimes take cuttings from young plants as well - it depends on how well they're establishing and whether I think they can "spare" the stem I'm taking off.
Thank you, Jason. We have -17°f winters up here and the 5 roses i planted last year had to tough it out through a really cold Spring (even with heavy mulch). I just wanted to make sure i gave these beauties the best start possible. 'Neptune', 'Francis Meilland' and 'Sugar Moon' have turned out to be stunning. My 'Oh Happy Day' is not the apricot color advertised, but pretty nontheless. Thank you again for your expert advice. The internet community is lucky you're here. 🌹
Great advice 👍its June 22nd 2021 my rose bushes are getting very large will it hurt to cut them back more than halfway? Or do I wait for fall?
Hi Arthur. In my climate (despite the current heat-wave) I wouldn't hesitate to prune now on a well-established rose. It depends on your area quite a lot. I'd generally prefer early summer over fall unless you're in a punishingly warm summer area.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm 👍
I check and I ruin some or at least slow them down by breaking off a percentage of roots. For other cuttings I've had boxwood develop 1 to 3 ⅛" roots in 11 months and sweet potato made ¼-½" roots in 20 hours.
20 hours! Nice. Everyone should start with sweep potato as a confidence booster!
Thanks for sharing! I've been having a hard time finding slips or seed potatoes and have been feeling pretty tempted to take cuttings from the 2 sweet potatoes I have growing. Sounds like I've been wasting time thinking about it.
@@boprosplumbing I don't have room for a bundle of 25 mail order so I buy a 4 or 6 pack in a garden center and unlike other veggies or annuals where I get short stocky and branchy, get the tallest ones. Then take long cuttings to above a bottom leaf. The leaves get cut in half to reduce transpiration. I rooted the latest in water outside at 88° . Roots at all internodes gave 2 or 3 rooted pieces per plant plus the rooted original. The rooted stem tip and mid cuttings go in shade until they get more roots to supply the top. Some others get planted just as they are and laid out sideways to root further along the stem. Of course if you plant the sweet potato as is you get the benefit of a rooted plant with plenty of leaves to make food for the newly damageg root system. You get quick top growth and length and take extra cuttings a little later.
@@johnc6228 awesome, thanks for the pointers, took a screen shot, I'll be giving it a try, my 2 donators have a few vines like 2-3 ft long, so they're ready. Do you use hormone or are they setting roots that fast without?
@@boprosplumbing No hormone necessary. I rooted them outdoors because it was a very hot week and the water stayed warm a long time even at night. You can use soil but it's harder to control wilting. The roots can get long fast but the 3" or longer succulent water roots don't transplant well and need more attention. Cooler water and night temps slow it down. For growing vegetable and bedding plants, cool nighttime temperatures in relation to daytime, called the negative differential keeps plants shorter and stockier but in this case the warm day and night together speeds up the root formation of sweet potato, basil and Coleus, or germination of Marigold, Zinnia or cucumber seeds for example.
Jason I always enjoy your videos. I have a backyard with a fair amount of shade, not a deep shade more partial. Are there any roses that would manage to thrive and flourish in this situation? Thanks for sharing your passion for roses.👍❤️😊
Hi Carmen. Have a look at the hybrid musks and ramblers - each of those groups contains roses that do well in part shade. I grow the repeat-blooming rambler Ghislaine de Feligonde in fairly deep shade actually.
Awe, thanks I’m going to check your version out. Thank you so much for responding back to me, much appreciated. 👍❤️😊
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I searched this rose out on your site it’s beautiful, is the springtime the best to order?
Jason, I am hooked on cuttings. I started last summer so am a newbie lol. I've been doing lantana hydrangea petunia, buttery fly bush. Sorry I've never been a fan of roses, I like the flowers but dislike the look of the bush and the thorns. Have you ever heard of the root maker pots?. I've heard 2-3 great reviews about them. You get a lot faster start and air prunes the young roots to form more
Thanks RandyI love your plant choices, and I'm so happy that's you've been enjoying propagation. The Rootmaker products look interesting. I've tried a few "air pruning" type products in the past, and I haven't been overwhelmed by the results, but you can always hope that the newest/best design will make a noticeable difference.
Just subscribed Jason great stuff!🙏🏻
Thanks to your advice I have managed to propagate 5 lavendar cuttings, so thank you, I feel very pleased with myself 😀 They all have roots on now and I was wondering where I should keep them now, should they be inside or outside, in full sun or partial sun whilst I grow them on?
Ho Kathy. Congratulations! I suggest you transition them to outdoor gardening conditions - it might take a "hardening off" period of up to a week in a bit of shade/shelter to see how they react.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you again for your advice.
when to remove the dome/cover? and every when should you water the cuttings? thanks
As soon as you confirm callus/early rooting, you can begin to transition away from high humidity. I check the domes daily to see if they need a bit of mist, but don't do a proper watering until they're rooted.
"Humility Dome"? Sounds like something from a Isaac Asimov novel. I just used one of my mom's totes, cutting go in for a few weeks before I check on things.. so far so good. Warm Humid conditions seem to work wonders for cuttings, just keep the tote out of direct sunlight..! I've made that mistake..
Good advice - they'll bake in direct sunlight
Hey, Jason do you also propogate exhibition hybrid tea roses??
Yes, we propagate 250+ varieties, with some of those being hybrid teas.
Excellent comparison of the varieties and indoor verses outdoor, as well as the interesting development from the new liquid hormone (very curious).
Do you do Camellia cuttings? If so, what types of hormone do you prefer for highest success?
Thanks so much. I haven't tried camellia yet - but from the instructions I've seen, it looks like it takes a medium/high rate of hormone (somewhere between .4% and 1.0%) and it still is relatively slow to root.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you Jason. Looks like I will be shopping for options locally and online.🤙
Hello. I'm new to propagating and learning a TON from your channel. thank you. Would you point me to a video that shows what to do next? Once the cuttings have roots? Do you up pot them? assuming yes, but want to verify. thanks again for sharing!
Hi Anita. I did a little something about the following steps in this video: th-cam.com/video/SSQDMvjkdb0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for another great video. I have a weird question, I took a mental note about your comment on hoping that the end of the cutting would callous. Could you cauterize the end of the cutting and bypass the wait for it to callous?
Thanks. The idea of cauterizing the cut almost seems to arise from a comparison to injury in animal tissue, where bleeding needs to be stopped. When taking a cutting for propagation, the node is chosen because you're trying to expose parenchyma (think stem cell) tissue that will create undifferentiated (callus) tissue, then roots. If you used heat to "seal" the end, you would presumably damage the exposed parenchyma cells, and delay true callus formation.
im like you i like to peek but havnt done it recently im in hawaii n usually just take cuttings n stick them in a pot n it roots but recently its been so hot that im not too successful maybe i will try your humidity tray i have a bunch of clear plastic totes very informative video thank you
My pleasure!
What is the perfect % of humidity for semi hardwood rose cuttings in clear tubs?
Something in the range of 80%
Great job!! Interesting!!
Hi Fraser!! I took some cuttings to propagate for the 1st time and only 1 survive. We have her for a year now in a nice big container from Costco, healthy foliage, new growth and she now has 3 cane. My question is, I’ve not seen any budding or rose yet.. is it possible to have healthy rose plant with no rose?
Hi Gen. Sure. Sometimes it takes a while for the plant to feel "settled" with its roots and stem growth before it will put energy into flowering.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank You!! I look forward to you channel!
I leave them alone because i feel like I’ll accidentally destroy them😭
Same , I think I might kill it
You are not alone 😂
It just feels like to me if I pull it up it will set back the growth process, I’m probably wrong
i check for green stems , and pull on them after 4 weeks to check , Cuttings requre patience ,cause enthusiasts growers then to disturb the process
Help! I've tried 2 sets of spruce/pine cuttings with no success so far. First 10 cuttings was low height mother cuts, liquid rooting horomone, indoors in potting soil no lights but decent indirect light half with plastic covering half without. All died. Next was 10 cuttings all with plastic covering in pure pearlite and very dilute liquid nutrients. 4 weeks all but one cutting all brown, dead and mold developing. On the one cutting that still has green needles no roots have formed.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I haven't done too much with conifers yet. I toured a facility, and it looked like they went with the "low and slow" approach. Low temperatures, part shade, infrequent mist, good air circulation. They said it would take months for some varieties to root.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm
Hmmmm thanks for the tips. I definitely cooked them outside then and did not have enough air flow. I read must be high humidity greenhouse type environment. I also may have taken the cutting wrong not leaving a node at the bottom. I don't have temperature controlled area for plants yet so. Cool. On to try 3 I suppose.
Are you ok? That heat wave and the town that burned down are close by. Can you check in if you are ok?
Thanks for asking. We came through the heat all right - a little bit of plant damage is nothing compared to what the folks up in Lytton had to deal with.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I can imagine, truly. Pigeon Forge, about an hour away from us, burned down a few years ago. It was devastating. I'm glad you are well, though.
Just pulled my golden shrimp cuttings and they are rooting. Here in southwest Florida my cuttings can take up to 6 weeks to root. Ideas? Also any suggestions for Rose's that can take this heat and humidity
Hi Kenneth. I made a video about roses in warmer climates, and some of the recommendations might work for you: th-cam.com/video/trejh_2m9uM/w-d-xo.html
In a close room, is there any need for a fan to create some airflow? my cuttings started great but then started moulding and a lot of them died
Gentle air flow (or at least decent vent holes in a humidity dome) are a good idea. Watch the moisture level in the potting soil to start - it doesn't need to be soaking wet.
Do you spray a fungicide on your cuttings when you put them underneath the Dome?
No. I haven't experimented with any fungicides
In a colder climate (Zone3-4) with a short growing season (May-Sept if I’m lucky) would you still go with semi-hardwood cuttings or would you go with a different type of cutting?
I’m concerned that they wont get enough time to become established before the cold weather hits as a semi-hardwood cutting. My roses I want to propagate only have the first couple varieties getting to the semi-hardwood stage - others have a long way to go yet.
Hi Robert. You can always try softwood cuttings - they're not too different in method. In fact, many times when I'm taking the semi hardwood, I slip in a few softwood cuttings (from higher up the stem) and have reasonable success rooting them.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks Jason! If this heat wave ever ends I’ll try that!
Cool, thanks! :)
Hi Jason, Some of my rose cuttings have turned black after forming callus. They are in a humidity dome under a grow light. Some of them are there for 3 weeks and some are for 12 days. My room temperature is always 18/19 degree C. Should I use a heat mat? If so what temperature should I set the heat mat to? Please advice.
Turning black is usually a sign of rot. This is probably oversimplifying, but when you see your cuttings go black it usally means there was too much moisture in the humidity dome or soil. If it goes brown and dry, it means too little - and if you get it just right, it stays green. A heating mat can speed things along - the usual temperature of approx. 75f or 23c is okay.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much! As you said that turning black from the bottom means there is too much moisture in the soil, will the heating pad help reducing some moisture? I have made couple of holes in my humidity dome. Should I keep the heating pad on all day or for certain number of hours?
A pretty stable temperature in the low 20's (C) is fine. The heating pad may help to evaporate some of the moisture over time, but mainly it's there to encourage faster root development so that there isn't time for the rot to take hold. Your better bet is just to introduce less water into the potting medium or choose a lighter propagation mix (maybe with a higher % of perlite)
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you! I mixed 1/3rd perlite to 2/3rd peat moss when I potted the cuttings. Should I mix more perlite in the soil mixture?
Hi.. do you need to leave some of the leaf for cutting ? Or u cut them all ?
I keep some leaves on - aside from continuing photosynthesis it also apparently helps to send rooting signals to the base of the cutting.
Jason, I do have a question NOT on the topic here. That is - cleaning pruning shears between roses. I've been washing w soap and water then applying alcohol - not the best obviously. I purchased a product called Green Shield that is sold to greenhouses- its an "Alkyl" quaternary based disinfectant. But when I received the container and looked at the warnings - YIKES! over the top poisonous to people, causes severe burns to the skin, aquatic poison with long lasting effects according to the label. ( I live on a lake).
Am I over reacting?
Thanks for your wise advice in advance if you happen to see and answer this question.
Yours very truly
Jennie
This is what I could find that seemed the most "on point" to your concerns: www.thehcpa.org/hcpa-responds-to-concerns-about-the-safety-of-quat-disinfectants/ I think many warnings are there to cover legal liability, and to make you cautious. Caution is a good thing - but used as directed, they're relatively safe.
Hi Jason. I took a cutting of one of my ownroot roses and stick it into the root riot plug and kept I inside a humidity dome indoor under the grow light. Exactly after 2 days while I was checking all my cuttings I tugged this one and I felt it was resisting. I did not expect this cutting to form roots within 2 days only, so I pulled it out and saw it has already formed tiny white roots. I dipped it in Dip n Grow rooting hormone and carefully put it back inside the root riot plug. Then 6 days have passed and I am not seeing any root popping out from the plug yet. Will this cutting grow roots or it won’t since I pulled it out ?
Wow. 2 days is pretty fast! I'd keep going with it - even if you did a little damage to early roots, the cutting can recover.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much.
Jason, my cuttings are callousing but don’t seem to be setting down roots. Some of these cuttings have had callousing for nearly a month and it seems like they are either stagnating or the callousing is just slowly getting bigger. What might be causing this? I have them in humidity dome inside by a window which isn’t super bright by any means and my home is a bit cool maybe 65-70 degrees most days. If the cuttings are too cold will the callousing be slow to send actual roots down?
One possibility is the concentration of the rooting hormone - too much can encourage callus, but not rooting. Is there a chance that's the case?
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm it’s possible they had too much rooting hormone left on them initially. There’s not visible rooting hormone still on the stem and I’ve not reapplied it. Do you suggest rinsing them with distilled water to get off any residual rooting hormone? Or else what should I do?
Do you think checking on them too frequently might cause this? I don’t know how long I’m supposed to go between checking them it’s not every single day for every single stem but it’s often multiple times a week. I’ve been trying to abstain recently lifting out the ones with the most callousing and checked on them after leaving them undisturbed for a full week and the callous is just larger
Why do the leaves turn yellow on the cuttings? What does it mean for the cutting and why dont you worry about it? Sorry thus is such a naive question!
Not a problem: yellowing of leaves is a pretty normal reaction to plant stress. It means the stem has decided to pull back nutrients from the leaves to conserve resources, and is often followed by leaf-drop. If you maintain the newly cut stem in reduced light and sufficient humidity, it reduces stress, and can delay or even avoid this reaction altogether. If the leaf does yellow and fall, it doesn't mean your cutting will fail for sure: it can still develop callus and roots in the meanwhile, and then send up new leaf shoots.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much! There is so much to learn from you channel, and you explain things very well. Its like being a research assistant and learning in the field.😀
Can I use promix? Can we do cuttings in winter/February?
I use promix at time with good success. It depends on the kind of cutting you want to take - I prefer semi-hardwood active season cuttings, and in my climate those are usually in late May onward.
Can you plant the cuttings into the place where they supposed to end up directly or do you always have to put them in the small black pots before? Also do you always need to put a greenhouse over it ? Since I don’t have one my first cuttings don’t have it I’m worried now they won’t work
I do it this way because it improves my chances - I'm sure you can find a way to propagate directly in the ground, but I like better control of the growing conditions.
I found rooting hormone powder which I've had for some years...does it have expiration time or will it still be working ? How long can it last?
I've had the same jar for 16 years. It still works. So, I keep using it.
I hear that the active ingredient will become less effective over time - but haven't tested it side-by-side with fresh hormone powder.
Curious exactly what potting mix you use with the best success for rooting? I used pro-mix (organic) small bale recently that has mycorrhizae included and it seems all my stems rotted within a couple weeks. Have you done any experiments with adding osmocote to the propagation mix to provide the cuttings some nutrients when they start to root?
I've always found extra nutrients to decrease my chances of success. I've used promix with the BX, and it seems to cause no problems for me (on roses) - overall, promix and sunshine mix give me good consistent results.
Why are you using domes since you said misting with bottom heat is best, cause i also moved away from domes to timed mist since the pros use mist for best results
Good question. I have 3 answers, all particular to my situation: 1) I just need more propagation space right away. It's not a matter of either/or - I'm doing both. 2) Many TH-cam viewers have responded that they don't want to (or can't) set up timed mist. To keep making prop videos where I only discuss timed mist would be excluding those viewers. 3) There are some advantages to the controlled environment of indoors. Early in the season, when I'm still getting very cold nights, or like now, when we're going through a heat wave - my greenhouse temperatures fluctuate wildly. I deal with it, but it's also nice to have a more stable, controllable environment to alternate into.
This was also my exact question. I grow seedlings indoors over the winter, and now all the cuttings are under mist outside. I was wondering, should I also be doing them indoors?
@@dougatfuto5 i also started to use both but timed mist its great cause there more light which makes them root faster.i do 2/3secs every 10mins mins.
What the new hormone ur using
I'm trying out an IBA water soluble salt (dissolved in water) as a long-soak. Previously I was applying as a talc-based powder
I’ve found allot more success when using a heat Matt
Thanks!
I find using a heat mat ‘faster’ but not always better. An aside:
I go to he thrift store and buy heating pads for humans. They are usually $2 or so and have thermostats. I find just ‘a touch’ of heat best for rose cuttings ( higher heat for annual seeds, etc).
My position would be (I don't propagate roses): what are you going to do differently next time when seeing failure? If you want to know what your cuttings are up to: pull them up. However, failed cuttings will become apparent soon enough.
And I definitely don't go there davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/51789/ It appears that there are two roses of the same name, developed by two different growers, introduced at about the same time. One has been identified in the literature as an alba, the other a damask. The one I am familiar with, found growing in many old gardens and cemeteries in the Central New York area is the damask.
Thanks Theo. Yeah, there's a lot of information on Helpmefind about 'Koenigen van Danemark' - and even though it's still mainly referred to as an Alba, it's parentage has been questionable from the start. "Atypical Alba" is one quote. Some just dump it into the class of Centifolia because of presumed mixed Damask parentage. On the topic of the video, I'm sure my overall patience level shapes my approach - but I do like the more timely feedback. When I'm able to see the atypical callus formation (as on 'Topaz Jewel') it tips me off to a) check my rates on the rooting hormone, and b) give another try to the technique of scoring cuttings. If I'd just left them to root, that's information I wouldn't know. In the case of 'Koenigen' I'm sure you're right - I would have seen a widespread failure in the variety within a matter of weeks. And I would have wondered if I did something wrong with moisture or lighting along the way somewhere. However, now that I've checked the tray and found brown bases on virtually all of the cuttings within the first 7 days (and because I'm still near enough to those 7 days to recall the conditions with certainty) I feel pretty comfortable in concluding the growth stage/hormonal balance of the cuttings is the likely cause. I'm sure a patient, meticulous grower could find a way to draw the same conclusions without looking at the base of the cuttings. For me, the timely hands-on feedback is a part of the learning process.
Hi Jason, I have a plant propagation book that claims that Floribundas and Hybrid Teas can't be propagated via cuttings. Something about a weak root system - I'm not sure if this means they won't root at all, or just won't become robust plants on their own roots. Frankly I'm not 100% sure what kinds of roses I have, but I suspect they are in the above categories. What are your thoughts on this? If it's a big topic, maybe you could do a video on it? Thanks!
Thanks. I've dealt with the topic as part of the own-root vs. grafted debate: th-cam.com/video/ADu5d0Jt4GQ/w-d-xo.html And it's true that some HTs and Floribundas were never really selected for vigor on their own roots. I can name a few that I've tried repeatedly from cuttings - to have them fail to root, or fail to perform well on their own roots. Distant Drums. Nostalgie. Double Delight. Maybe a few others. On the other hand, there are dozens that I produce regularly on their own roots that range from good to excellent on their own roots.
Dont check the cutting. Dont pull on them or move them. I have lost all my cutting, they callused and i put them back in the soil, but lost all of them. For us who grow rose cuttings in an home environment and not a nursery environment defently dont pull on them or touch or move them. Please be patient. I am now on my second lot of cuttings and they are 18 days old and doing great. I put in 50 and so far only 5 have died. I live in south Africa and we are in the heart of summer, very hot weather. I found a spot in the garden that only has shade and they are growing amazingly.
Good to hear about your success Irene! As a matter of preference, I'm going to keep on pulling and checking for roots - it gives me all sorts of timely feedback that I wouldn't have otherwise.
oh jah!
I overwater!
*When I saw the dome with small holes..*
me:
dome:
plants: