just finished a kitchen using oil based eggshell on the walls haven't ever used water based on woodwork etc before wouldn't ever prime bare timer with a water primer or mdf etc just naff raises the grain can't really sand it very well either.
What about acrylic paint? That's what Kelly Moore (in California) sells. Is that a hybrid paint, as you mentioned? I always thought it was the same as a latex paint, as it cleans up with water, but apparently it's "chemical based" and not "water based".
Do I need to clean my walls prior to painting? Should I lightly sand between coats? Should i lightly sand after I finishing painting. I am referring to painting a room with a high-grade semi-gloss. Thanks
If the walls are dirty, more specifically greasy, then yes, I would clean them. If they are fairly clean, then yes, I would sand them lightly because of the original semi-gloss finish. This will allow the new paint to "bite" into the old finish. You do not have to sand between the new coats, or sand after the final coat. Thanks!
Great channel and I’m learning a lot so thank you! Quick question: I painted my door casing advance semi gloss and now I have to paint my baseboards before installing. I would actually like a lower gloss for baseboards (satin) after seeing the results of advance semi. Is it okay to have door casing one sheen level and baseboards another? FYI, I likely will paint my doors same as the casing (semi) but would opt for satin if I can get away with it.
There is nothing wrong with it, but it is rarely done in practice. I think what will happen is you will paint the satin finish, then find that the semi-gloss frame will just stick out too much. Personally, I am a bigger fan of the satin finish, so that's what I would do everywhere. My recommendation, even thought it's a pain, is to paint everything the same. You can simply go over the semi-gloss, but I would do a quick light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper first. Please let me know if this helps. Thanks!
I'm going to use oil based white paint on my roof for sunlight reflecting purpose do u think its a good idea? It made sense to me because oil base is more durable and water proof
So you are going to paint the roof? I would use a product like Snow Roof (there are a ton of them on the market). Oil base paints have a tendency to dry hard over time so if there is expansion or contraction of the roofing substance, the oil base paint will eventually crack over time. Besides, you should not be using a conventional paint for the roof. You'll want to use a viscous, pliable product specifically meant for the roof. You are correct about using a white color, it will be perfect for reflecting sunlight. Please let me know if this helped. I just really want to make sure I am correct in my assumption of your question. Thanks!
Ace hardware guy recommended oil based paint for coffee table, before I learned of this information. Lol. Am I screwed? Top part is already painted. I’m wondering if I should do a clear coat once dried? Concerned about the cracking in the paint overtime. First timer here.
He wasn't completely wrong in this scenario. Oil will most likely hold up better than a latex for a coffee table. Just know that it's paint, so it may chip easily and not hold up super well. Also, my bigger concern when it comes to cracking is exposure to extreme temperature changes, like you get outside. If your place is pretty consistent as far as the temp goes, you should be just fine. If your concern is something else, let me know and I will respond with more specificity. Thanks!
@@tacthemac1366 It's not a bad idea. Should help with cleaning and keeping the color of the paint looking nice. One thing that is imperative is to check the compatibility of the two products. If they are not compatible, when you spray over the oil paint the clear coat could crackle, pool (create small, round, pool like rings), or simply peel off in sheets. I know this is a pain, but I would take a scrape piece of wood, paint it like you did the table, and then spray the clear coat and see how the clear coat reacts with the oil paint. Make sure you give it time, say two or three days to make sure. After that time, use your finger nail to see if you can scrape the finish coat off; if it comes off easily, it's a problem.
@@DaveMartin You were 100 percent right. The clear coat rustoleum had acetone and it messed up the paint, so I repainted. I don't know why the clear coat contains acetone if it messes up the paint. I had a couple of problems. 1. The acetone bubbled the paint like you said . 2. It wasn't fully dry because of the heat and humidity. (I waited 24 hrs, but it wasn't long enough.) I am now going to wait until it is fully dried. It is more humid and hot where I am (AZ) so I am going to wait longer than the 24 hrs that they recommend. Would a polyurethane clear coat be compatible and contain no acetone? I don't want to mess up the finish a second time. Thanks for the help.
@@tacthemac1366 there is no real way to know if a polyurethane (or any other product) will work without testing it. since it’s hot where you are at, run a fan directly towards the table. Air flow is more important than heat to aid in drying. Also, patience is important here, I’d wait at least 2 or 3 days; to be clear, paints take a long time to fully cure, especially an oil…maybe as long as 30 days (if not longer).
Is the exterior wood siding already painted, or is it raw? For siding that is already painted, I would recommend the Regal Select High Build Exterior paint, Flat or Lo Lustre depending on your taste. I almost alway use the flat for the siding and lo lustre for the trim. Be aware that a flat, especially dark, finish can mark easily, so you may want to increase the sheen for better durability.. If the wood is raw, I would use the Arborcoat's solid exterior stain. It's self priming so that's a bonus. If the wood is raw, you should always test the paint first. If you paint over the raw siding you want to make sure you don't get tannin bleed, which can happen with cedar siding. Tannins are natural in cedar and other woods and can leach through the paint causing an unsightly brownish stain. The only way to stop it is with a stain blocking, oil base, primer. Please let. me know if this helps, or if you have any other questions.
@@DaveMartin thank you very much Dave 😊 The wood is been painted before, is a kind of dark brown and going to a gray. I'm afraid that some spots will come up from dark color to light color. Should I use primer before paint? Not sure if will cost to much money prime and paint. Thanks again for you fast response and help.
@@carlosmendez9312 When using a high quality paint like BM, if you are just changing colors, no, you do not need a primer. It may take two coats, but it will cover the brown just fine. The High Build is a great product, if the gray is a darker gray, you might get lucky and it will cover in one coat. The only time you should need a primer outside is for bare wood and/or new spackle/putty. There is an argument that if you use a caulk that it should be primed because it will flash once painted (dry shinier than the sheen you are using), but I have never had that issue. Please let me know if you have any other concerns or questions. Thanks!
If you are looking for longevity and durability, then I would use Benjamin Moore's Satin Oil Impervo; remember, it's oil, so comes with all the issues noted in the video. I would, and use, Benjamin Moore's Scuff X for bookcases. It's durable and tough, and water based, so I recommend it highly. I don't use other manufacturer's paints, so if you are not using BM, I cannot give you an informative answer on other brands. Thanks!
Yes, acrylic latex is water base. I should note here that an HVLP may not have the pressure to push a water based paint through it. The paint may require thinning and this becomes problematic if you have to thin it too much to get the paint to spray correctly.
@@cmdv42 I used to use HVLPs for spraying lacquer, but I do not use them any more as I do not do lacquer work any more. All of the products I use to paint will not atomize well with an HVLP, so I use something with more pressure. When I spray, I use an airless paint sprayer like the Titan 440 or the Graco 395 or 495. I spray with a 515 tip and never, ever thin my paint. I also have a Graco TC Pro hand held sprayer for smaller projects.
It really depends. For the most part, no. Most of my clients work from home and logistically it's just not feasible. New construction, depending on what the client wants, then I might (in other words if they want a super smooth surface, I will spray). Many of my clients live in older homes that have been brushed in the past and so they will stick to a brushed look. There is also touch up to think of. If you spray to a really smooth surface, then it gets nicked and you need to touch it up, spraying is problematic in those scenarios. When I use a sprayer, I use a Titan 440 and spray with a 515 tip for most of the paints I use. I also own a Graco TC Pro using a 415 tip. I use that for smaller projects like shutters and sometimes for cabinet work. I do not use an HVLP as with most of the paints I use, and HVLP cannot break down the product without thinning the paint, a lot (thinning the paint is not ideal) . Too much info? ;-)
@@DaveMartin Thanks for the very thorough explanation. You answered some of my other follow-up questions. I am looking to purchase a sprayer mainly for spraying the doors and trims. Do you recommend the Graco in this case? Also, I have been using your cutting methods with tape and it has brought my work to the next level. I receive so much more compliments now.
@@owenjennings8575 Thanks for the comments, I'm glad your clients are excited about your work! As for the sprayer, if you are looking for the best sprayer, more control and better finish, the airless (Titan 440 or the Graco 395 or 495) are great choices for the price. The handhelds are nice, but if you are looking for a super smooth finish, I think the airless is the best choice. The handhelds don't seem to have the higher pressure needed to really atomize the paint in some situations. It also opens you up to doing larger spray projects like exteriors. For the price, the handheld will do the job, but for an extra $1,000, you're going to get a great sprayer in the airless. Best, Dave
This information is woefully inadequate. Water based paints aren't latex. There are no shortages of examples of water based paints which are not latex.
A perfect video: straight to the point. Thank you!
just finished a kitchen using oil based eggshell on the walls haven't ever used water based on woodwork etc before wouldn't ever prime bare timer with a water primer or mdf etc just naff raises the grain can't really sand it very well either.
Wow! That was an amazing explanation. Thank you so much!!!
My pleasure, thanks for the feedback!
What about acrylic paint? That's what Kelly Moore (in California) sells. Is that a hybrid paint, as you mentioned? I always thought it was the same as a latex paint, as it cleans up with water, but apparently it's "chemical based" and not "water based".
How can I tell which base allows for the most color when there is no number or letter. Ie deep vs extra deep ?
Awesome video, direct and clear
Thanks!
Good info. Didn't think I needed to watch this, but I learned several facts.
I appreciate that, thank you.
Do I need to clean my walls prior to painting? Should I lightly sand between coats? Should i lightly sand after I finishing painting. I am referring to painting a room with a high-grade semi-gloss. Thanks
If the walls are dirty, more specifically greasy, then yes, I would clean them.
If they are fairly clean, then yes, I would sand them lightly because of the original semi-gloss finish. This will allow the new paint to "bite" into the old finish.
You do not have to sand between the new coats, or sand after the final coat.
Thanks!
Great channel and I’m learning a lot so thank you!
Quick question: I painted my door casing advance semi gloss and now I have to paint my baseboards before installing. I would actually like a lower gloss for baseboards (satin) after seeing the results of advance semi.
Is it okay to have door casing one sheen level and baseboards another? FYI, I likely will paint my doors same as the casing (semi) but would opt for satin if I can get away with it.
There is nothing wrong with it, but it is rarely done in practice. I think what will happen is you will paint the satin finish, then find that the semi-gloss frame will just stick out too much. Personally, I am a bigger fan of the satin finish, so that's what I would do everywhere.
My recommendation, even thought it's a pain, is to paint everything the same. You can simply go over the semi-gloss, but I would do a quick light sanding with 220 grit sandpaper first.
Please let me know if this helps.
Thanks!
Which is better oil or water based paint on wall? Please reply
I'm going to use oil based white paint on my roof for sunlight reflecting purpose do u think its a good idea?
It made sense to me because oil base is more durable and water proof
So you are going to paint the roof? I would use a product like Snow Roof (there are a ton of them on the market).
Oil base paints have a tendency to dry hard over time so if there is expansion or contraction of the roofing substance, the oil base paint will eventually crack over time. Besides, you should not be using a conventional paint for the roof. You'll want to use a viscous, pliable product specifically meant for the roof.
You are correct about using a white color, it will be perfect for reflecting sunlight.
Please let me know if this helped. I just really want to make sure I am correct in my assumption of your question.
Thanks!
@@DaveMartin yeah thank you actually i wanted to take the word of an experienced person first and I'm glad i did
you want to use aluminium bitumen thats very reflective.
Very good info. Just discovered your channel..
Thank you, I really appreciate the comment!
Ace hardware guy recommended oil based paint for coffee table, before I learned of this information. Lol. Am I screwed? Top part is already painted. I’m wondering if I should do a clear coat once dried? Concerned about the cracking in the paint overtime. First timer here.
He wasn't completely wrong in this scenario. Oil will most likely hold up better than a latex for a coffee table. Just know that it's paint, so it may chip easily and not hold up super well.
Also, my bigger concern when it comes to cracking is exposure to extreme temperature changes, like you get outside. If your place is pretty consistent as far as the temp goes, you should be just fine.
If your concern is something else, let me know and I will respond with more specificity.
Thanks!
@@DaveMartin Thanks! That was helpful. What do you think of a rustoleum clear coat over oil based for added protection?
@@tacthemac1366 It's not a bad idea. Should help with cleaning and keeping the color of the paint looking nice.
One thing that is imperative is to check the compatibility of the two products. If they are not compatible, when you spray over the oil paint the clear coat could crackle, pool (create small, round, pool like rings), or simply peel off in sheets.
I know this is a pain, but I would take a scrape piece of wood, paint it like you did the table, and then spray the clear coat and see how the clear coat reacts with the oil paint. Make sure you give it time, say two or three days to make sure. After that time, use your finger nail to see if you can scrape the finish coat off; if it comes off easily, it's a problem.
@@DaveMartin You were 100 percent right. The clear coat rustoleum had acetone and it messed up the paint, so I repainted. I don't know why the clear coat contains acetone if it messes up the paint. I had a couple of problems. 1. The acetone bubbled the paint like you said . 2. It wasn't fully dry because of the heat and humidity. (I waited 24 hrs, but it wasn't long enough.) I am now going to wait until it is fully dried. It is more humid and hot where I am (AZ) so I am going to wait longer than the 24 hrs that they recommend. Would a polyurethane clear coat be compatible and contain no acetone? I don't want to mess up the finish a second time. Thanks for the help.
@@tacthemac1366 there is no real way to know if a polyurethane (or any other product) will work without testing it.
since it’s hot where you are at, run a fan directly towards the table. Air flow is more important than heat to aid in drying.
Also, patience is important here, I’d wait at least 2 or 3 days; to be clear, paints take a long time to fully cure, especially an oil…maybe as long as 30 days (if not longer).
Hi Dave
Can you please recommend me which regal select paint I should use for exterior wood siding.
Thanks 😊
Is the exterior wood siding already painted, or is it raw? For siding that is already painted, I would recommend the Regal Select High Build Exterior paint, Flat or Lo Lustre depending on your taste. I almost alway use the flat for the siding and lo lustre for the trim. Be aware that a flat, especially dark, finish can mark easily, so you may want to increase the sheen for better durability..
If the wood is raw, I would use the Arborcoat's solid exterior stain. It's self priming so that's a bonus. If the wood is raw, you should always test the paint first. If you paint over the raw siding you want to make sure you don't get tannin bleed, which can happen with cedar siding. Tannins are natural in cedar and other woods and can leach through the paint causing an unsightly brownish stain. The only way to stop it is with a stain blocking, oil base, primer.
Please let. me know if this helps, or if you have any other questions.
@@DaveMartin thank you very much Dave 😊
The wood is been painted before, is a kind of dark brown and going to a gray. I'm afraid that some spots will come up from dark color to light color.
Should I use primer before paint? Not sure if will cost to much money prime and paint.
Thanks again for you fast response and help.
@@carlosmendez9312 When using a high quality paint like BM, if you are just changing colors, no, you do not need a primer. It may take two coats, but it will cover the brown just fine. The High Build is a great product, if the gray is a darker gray, you might get lucky and it will cover in one coat.
The only time you should need a primer outside is for bare wood and/or new spackle/putty. There is an argument that if you use a caulk that it should be primed because it will flash once painted (dry shinier than the sheen you are using), but I have never had that issue.
Please let me know if you have any other concerns or questions.
Thanks!
Which paint can be used on plastic?
Great video ,thank you
water kind what you use for a built in bookcase?
If you are looking for longevity and durability, then I would use Benjamin Moore's Satin Oil Impervo; remember, it's oil, so comes with all the issues noted in the video.
I would, and use, Benjamin Moore's Scuff X for bookcases. It's durable and tough, and water based, so I recommend it highly.
I don't use other manufacturer's paints, so if you are not using BM, I cannot give you an informative answer on other brands.
Thanks!
If my HVLP paint sprayer says its for water-based, does that mean it's ok to shoot acrylic latex paint through it since its latex?
Yes, acrylic latex is water base.
I should note here that an HVLP may not have the pressure to push a water based paint through it. The paint may require thinning and this becomes problematic if you have to thin it too much to get the paint to spray correctly.
@@DaveMartin Ok good to know! 💯 What do you prefer to use in HVLP sprayers?
@@cmdv42 I used to use HVLPs for spraying lacquer, but I do not use them any more as I do not do lacquer work any more. All of the products I use to paint will not atomize well with an HVLP, so I use something with more pressure.
When I spray, I use an airless paint sprayer like the Titan 440 or the Graco 395 or 495. I spray with a 515 tip and never, ever thin my paint. I also have a Graco TC Pro hand held sprayer for smaller projects.
Do you use a paint sprayer?
It really depends. For the most part, no. Most of my clients work from home and logistically it's just not feasible. New construction, depending on what the client wants, then I might (in other words if they want a super smooth surface, I will spray).
Many of my clients live in older homes that have been brushed in the past and so they will stick to a brushed look.
There is also touch up to think of. If you spray to a really smooth surface, then it gets nicked and you need to touch it up, spraying is problematic in those scenarios.
When I use a sprayer, I use a Titan 440 and spray with a 515 tip for most of the paints I use. I also own a Graco TC Pro using a 415 tip. I use that for smaller projects like shutters and sometimes for cabinet work. I do not use an HVLP as with most of the paints I use, and HVLP cannot break down the product without thinning the paint, a lot (thinning the paint is not ideal) .
Too much info? ;-)
@@DaveMartin Thanks for the very thorough explanation. You answered some of my other follow-up questions. I am looking to purchase a sprayer mainly for spraying the doors and trims. Do you recommend the Graco in this case? Also, I have been using your cutting methods with tape and it has brought my work to the next level. I receive so much more compliments now.
@@owenjennings8575 Thanks for the comments, I'm glad your clients are excited about your work!
As for the sprayer, if you are looking for the best sprayer, more control and better finish, the airless (Titan 440 or the Graco 395 or 495) are great choices for the price. The handhelds are nice, but if you are looking for a super smooth finish, I think the airless is the best choice. The handhelds don't seem to have the higher pressure needed to really atomize the paint in some situations. It also opens you up to doing larger spray projects like exteriors.
For the price, the handheld will do the job, but for an extra $1,000, you're going to get a great sprayer in the airless.
Best,
Dave
This information is woefully inadequate. Water based paints aren't latex. There are no shortages of examples of water based paints which are not latex.