Two "journeymen" machinists applying for one position. The shop owner put them each on a Bridgeport and asked them to get a vice set up on the table and ready to make a part. The first guy threw a new Kurt up on the table, trammed it in and was ready to go in about 5 minutes. The second guy took his time to make sure the surfaces were clean on the table and vice, trammed in the head of the machine first (which was intentionally off by a couple degrees in both directions), then set and trammed the vice in. Although it took the second guy a little longer to get all set, he got the job. It always matters when it matters.
Also dont forget if you have tandem vices you can dial in one, then use a ground piece of square stock or a turned piece of round stock and butt the solid jaw and tighten down usually gets you in almost perfect
Slots are great to get it close, but they're nowhere near close enough to actually set the vice in most cases. You have to tram it across the face of the jaw with an indicator, just as he did.
@@joshmcintyre9608 if thats the case it can be 2 things, a t slot on the table that has a bump, or its a low quality import vice whose table slots are not congruent with the stationary jaw
I’ve surprised myself by putting a vice on the mill and it be within .003” straight 😅😅😅 my eyes sometimes work with me, and sometimes…. I’ll put the vice on, and I’ll fight it for 20 minutes.
if you set the indicator to zero on one side, travel the whole distance to the other side, take the indicator's value, then hammer the vise until the indicator is at HALF the value that it traveled, the vise will be perfectly aligned. (repeat that process a few times more) Imagine you hammered it to zero at the other side, the vise would just turn that same misalignment but in the other direction
@@urgamecshk what makes you think I’m an ai bot? Also, I said that because the vise I use has a pivoting base without much play, but it probably doesn’t work here because there are two „loose“ bolts
Thats wrong ...snug one bolt and make indicator zero that side ...then go to the other end , tap the vise to make zero , then the vise will be square...easy 1 min job if you know about the concept of pivot.
@@urgamecshk I know pivot point is slightly offset from the corner of the jaw...but after 1 or 2 tries using this method ..you get vise square within .001 " over 6 inch...I do it everyday
When you went back all you had to do was tap it back to zero. I would have snugged that left bolt up a little more too. Looks like the vice moved instead of pivoted. I dont do any of that anymore, I'm retired. But zeroing the dial out like that would get a man chewed out where I'm from.
No, that's not true, one bolt is not a perfect cylindrical pivot. It takes a few swipes of the back jaw with some light taps until "0" indicates the entire distance of the jaw.
@@Wolfcamp555I agree. However for the purposes of showing a new person the dial in procedure, especially for the video, it's better to zero it out so you can see the deflection without remembering what number it started at. Plus for people like me, I am going to zero it out for some operations so I don't have to try to remember what random number it started at, and can see it as a differential rather than an absolute number. But that's individual preference depending on your style and skill level and eyesight.
@@ke6gwf anytime you're trying to get something to run true all you really need to do is get the needle to stop moving. No need to know what number it's on. If you need to know how much run out you have, zero the indicator with the table or any mark you want. That's my thought process anyway.
I do it both ways, but this made a better show for new learners. I usual do not move the dial, but move the y-axis to achieve either zero, or an even 5 mark, I don't like just leaving it, as I might need to remember something like 1 & 3/4 thousandths.
Can never get enough of this stuff.
Two "journeymen" machinists applying for one position. The shop owner put them each on a Bridgeport and asked them to get a vice set up on the table and ready to make a part. The first guy threw a new Kurt up on the table, trammed it in and was ready to go in about 5 minutes. The second guy took his time to make sure the surfaces were clean on the table and vice, trammed in the head of the machine first (which was intentionally off by a couple degrees in both directions), then set and trammed the vice in. Although it took the second guy a little longer to get all set, he got the job. It always matters when it matters.
Best educator I’ve ever seen
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That man knows!!
In the tool room we had dogs machined into the bottom of the vice base which fitted into the bed slots.
Oh that's funny, I was dialing my vise in this way just earlier this morning!
It's them listening lol. I just did mine Wednesday
Also dont forget if you have tandem vices you can dial in one, then use a ground piece of square stock or a turned piece of round stock and butt the solid jaw and tighten down usually gets you in almost perfect
Love the Parlec vise! From their home town and spent a summer on co-op there 👍🏼
That “Hmm” at the end is exactly how I react.
Neat
Great method. Either that or clamp a bar in the vise and then the indicator can be placed directly over the bolt.
The bottom of the vise has slots so just make 2 keys to fit the t slot and it will always be aligned
Slots are great to get it close, but they're nowhere near close enough to actually set the vice in most cases. You have to tram it across the face of the jaw with an indicator, just as he did.
@@joshmcintyre9608 if thats the case it can be 2 things, a t slot on the table that has a bump, or its a low quality import vice whose table slots are not congruent with the stationary jaw
@@williewest5574 what if the t-nuts warp or the slots wear out? it's always best to have space for fine alignments down to the micrometer.
I stopped going off of a number. I just tap until the dial stops moving! SO much faster.
I’ve surprised myself by putting a vice on the mill and it be within .003” straight 😅😅😅 my eyes sometimes work with me, and sometimes…. I’ll put the vice on, and I’ll fight it for 20 minutes.
if you set the indicator to zero on one side, travel the whole distance to the other side, take the indicator's value, then hammer the vise until the indicator is at HALF the value that it traveled, the vise will be perfectly aligned. (repeat that process a few times more) Imagine you hammered it to zero at the other side, the vise would just turn that same misalignment but in the other direction
That's wrong because of where the pivot point is. Good try, ai bot
@@urgamecshk what makes you think I’m an ai bot? Also, I said that because the vise I use has a pivoting base without much play, but it probably doesn’t work here because there are two „loose“ bolts
Thats wrong ...snug one bolt and make indicator zero that side ...then go to the other end , tap the vise to make zero , then the vise will be square...easy 1 min job if you know about the concept of pivot.
@@sikkingtruth7488 it won't be though. The pivot is not at the corner of your jaw.
@@urgamecshk I know pivot point is slightly offset from the corner of the jaw...but after 1 or 2 tries using this method ..you get vise square within .001 " over 6 inch...I do it everyday
When you went back all you had to do was tap it back to zero. I would have snugged that left bolt up a little more too. Looks like the vice moved instead of pivoted.
I dont do any of that anymore, I'm retired. But zeroing the dial out like that would get a man chewed out where I'm from.
No, that's not true, one bolt is not a perfect cylindrical pivot. It takes a few swipes of the back jaw with some light taps until "0" indicates the entire distance of the jaw.
If your vice key that is unnecessary
Keys are great, but they're not perfect
Lol. He still sets his dial to zero instead of using any mark on the dial.
It's easier to demonstrate that way
@@ke6gwf it's not easier to move a dial than to not move a dial. There's no need to teach them how to move a dial for the rest of their lives.
@@Wolfcamp555I agree.
However for the purposes of showing a new person the dial in procedure, especially for the video, it's better to zero it out so you can see the deflection without remembering what number it started at.
Plus for people like me, I am going to zero it out for some operations so I don't have to try to remember what random number it started at, and can see it as a differential rather than an absolute number.
But that's individual preference depending on your style and skill level and eyesight.
@@ke6gwf anytime you're trying to get something to run true all you really need to do is get the needle to stop moving. No need to know what number it's on.
If you need to know how much run out you have, zero the indicator with the table or any mark you want.
That's my thought process anyway.
I do it both ways, but this made a better show for new learners. I usual do not move the dial, but move the y-axis to achieve either zero, or an even 5 mark, I don't like just leaving it, as I might need to remember something like 1 & 3/4 thousandths.