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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- This video shows the step taken to replace the Driver's side Floor of a Jeep CJ7. These step would be transferable to about any type of vehicle. It included removal of the original Floor, the lower section of the A-Piller, and a section of the driver's side tub.
There is a link at the end of this video to a 4 part series of how to replace the Passenger's Side Floor. Both floors used the KeyParts replacement panel which I found to be provide a perfect fit.
Project Rowdy is a restoration on a 1979 Jeep CJ7.
Project Rowdy Playlist:
www.youtube.co....
UCanDoIt2 Website: www.ucandoit2.c...
UCanDoIt2 Contact: UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com
JeepForum Thread:
www.jeepforum.c....
Facebook Page:
/ projectrowdy
Music
Intro: Alex Skrindo (Alive)
#jeep #jeepcj #lsswap #lsswaptheworld #lsswapc10 #lsswapc10 #diyperformance
My project has been stalled for a long time, but your videos have helped re-inspire me to get back at it. Keep it up, man!
Your comment inspires me as well!!! What helps me sometimes is to simply cleanup around the project, put away tools, clean off the workbench, and identify what would I like to do next! Cheers and have fun with your project! Mike
Loving these videos. I'm jumping around watching them, and really enjoying them. Thanks for the series on the CJ-7.
I appreciate the feedback and kind words. There is a playlist that will present them in order, if that helps. Cheers to you Sir! Mike
Glad to see you back. Hope everything has been ok with you and your family. I so much enjoy your informative videos. Hope you and your family have a wonderful Christmas.
I appreciate you following alone. Trying to dedicate more time to continue my progress. Cheers and have a great Christmas as well! Mike
Sometimes cutting out rust sets off a chain reaction. You are making it look easy. Nice work.
Thank you Stan. Cheers and hope your doing well. Mike
Glad your posting again. I'm actually in the process of putting a 6.0L ls engine in my YJ. I'm hoping you get to engine mounts and mating the engine/trans/transfercase before I do, so I can see how you tackle it. lol
Once I get the Dana 300 rebuild, I will start purchasing all the guts to mate all the drive train together. Thanks for following along. Mike
Man! I'm so happy your back at it! Always informative and made simple where i feel like i can do it myself. I can't wait for you to get this beast done so you can enjoy all this work!
Thank you tony. I dream of the day when I can take this thing out for a spin. Thanks for following along. The Goal is still strong. Mike
Great job, lots of helpful information. I've watched a lot of your videos while working on my CJ7.
Always great to share with other Jeepers! Hope your projects are going well.... Mike!
Hey Mike. Nice work. Rowdy is coming along!
Feels good to have large sections like this complete. Glad to have this done. Thank you Russ!
I'll use it as reference to repair A post in our YJ thanks
Such a common issue with all the Jeeps. I have seen where you can buy that lower A pillar, but it is such an easy part to create yourself. Have fun with! Mike
Merry Christmas Mike! Thanks for getting this new vid put together. This is coming up on my to-do list with my CJ-7. Really appreciate you.
Merry Christmas to you as well Noel. Thank you very much for the support. Best of luck and have fun with your project. Mike
Happy New Year Mike! Great video!
Cheers and Happy New Year to you as well !!!! Mike
I have been waiting on a new video! Your videos are well made and your attention to detail tells a lot about yourself. Keep up the good work! I am ready to see the 5.3 in the jeep.
Feels good to keep the progress going. Thanks for watching and following along. Cheers Mike
Looks great Mike! Your custom A-pillar base came out really nice. Love your attention to detail. My tub had similar rust behind the A-pillars. I plan to sneak some fluid film in between the body and pillar via the bottom hole of the lower door hinge. Anyways, keep it up !!
I appreciate it Bob. Your Tub Paint series has helped me think through the approach that I need to take with my tub. Cheers! Mike.
Nice Repair Glad to see your back making Video. I Flowed you on your LS Wire Harness Video Very Informative Thanks for all The Great drawings and information.I am in the process of Swapping aLS into a 1969 GMC 4x4 Pickup.
I greatly appreciate you following along and glad that you enjoyed the Engine series. Now if I can only get this body work done, so that I can fire it up! Thanks Mike
I’m glade to see a new video I have thoroughly enjoyed this video series
I appreciate you following along. Thanks for watching !!! Cheers Mike
Great to see some good descriptive content from ya on Rowdy! Gotta get those boys doing all the work and you supervising ;)
Cheers John. The boys are excited to try to get this thing back on the road. I have to remind them that we are still tearing apart... But it's nice to have free labor. Their repayment will be free rental. Cheers!!!
UCanDoIt2 awesome. I remember helping my father with the first revival of my ‘81 in 2001 - 2002 (sbc conversion). Fond memories of that time.
Regarding your Dana 300 rebuild, I just finished rebuilding a “short tail” Dana 300 to go with my T176 and 5.3. If you have questions or want to borrow my 12-ton shop press, you’re more than welcome. It makes the job a lot easier!
Check out this guy’s 2-part video on a Dana 300 rebuild, I referenced it several times during my rebuild: th-cam.com/video/OR8pS5sP-T0/w-d-xo.html
Well done!
Thanks you. I am very please with how it turned out. Cheers Mike
Looks great ready to hear it running
It will be a fine day when we get some fumes coming out of the LM7! Looking forward to that event.
Awesome! Glad to see you back at it!
David Dudley thank you David! I appreciate you following along. Mike.
Glad your back! Can't waite to see more.
Thank you Kyle!
Glad to see a video from you! Great job as always!
Thank you Jim. Thanks for following along... Mike!
If I ever learned something about sanding fiberglass is that you should always cover all skin or you will itch.
Great work as always. This channel defines quality over quantity. Happy holidays to you and your family!
What a great statement... Quality of Quantity!!!! Cheers to "The Vito"... Mike!
Thanks for the great content I’m your newest sub! The wiring harness videos really really help.
calesmith I appreciate the feedback. Glad you found me and decided to follow along. Mike
Awesome job! Love watching your videos. I was getting worried; it's been a while since you posted something.
Crazy Day Job was getting into the way. Interestingly, I am now very slow a t work. Greatly appreciate you following alone!!!!! Mike
Glad to see your back missed your videos thought you for got about us lol hope all is well cant wait to see it down I also have a project I'm doing should check it out
Thank you Sir! Glad to be able to carve out some time to get my project back on the road. I'll swing by and see what you got!!! Mike
Looks great
Can't wait till the next video.
Great job, keep the videos coming
Me too! Looking forward to digging into the D300. Cool stuff! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I might haver another D300 for sale, just put in a Atlas 4sp. But the D300 might go in my XJ project I'm doing
muddyWW how much ya looking to get for the Dana 300? Local to ATL?
@@johnclark3498 Up in Mich, and as of right now I'm doing the debating game with myself. Where I'm thinking of putting it in my XJ but then thinking of not putting it in it. I just started ripping the XJ apart.
Nice job Mike....I gotta do the same......the project 95' YJ I obtained already had the floor sections cut out. Obviously it was someone else's project that they lost interest (or funds) in. Cruising through my buddy's wrecking yard I found it sitting off by itself with all the accessories. I saw that the frame was still in pretty solid shape and other than the floors needing replacing, the rest of the tub was good so I grabbed it pretty cheap. A bonus was that it already had a lift and had 31's with mags on it.....win win. Oh btw.......the same (brand) floor panels are also available on Raybucks website....who ever is cheaper.......Key Parts or Raybucks. They also have the torque boxes......
I actually enjoyed replacing the floors. I learned a lot and was able to fabricate some parts (lower A pillar). Because I am going to coat with a bed liner, there was no real need to make the joints perfect. BUT... I have plenty of time and am using this project as a learning experience for another project (68 Camaro). I decided to learn and do the best I could and think it turned out perfect. 5 times better that it really needed to.
Congrats on your YJ find. Thanks for all the recent comments. And...Welcome to the club!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Well, if you're using this as a learning experience you're doing a great job !......As I mentioned before, it's obvious you have a good work ethic (meticulous) and approach projects with the same mindset whether you're familiar with it or not. You obviously take your time and do the research prior to delving in......nice. I've done this stuff since I was a pre-teen and I can remember cutting up old car hoods to get panels to shape into floorboards....the late 60's I think....and btw I've done several 67' to early 70's Camaro's over the years, as well as other muscle cars. Those days are gone as the car's have dried up for the most part so it's onto Jeeps lol....wish I had my old cars back. Of all the repair video's I've seen on here so far, yours are some of the best.....very informative & instructional......nice job.
@@bobmcelver1484 Much appreciated on the compliments !!!! I'm currently planning on a couple of days of sanding and then a couple of coats of Epoxy Primer. Just wanting to make sure i have warmer temps and hope the Pollen cuts us a break. Hopefully will have a much needed update video out soon. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Yep.......with better temps here I'm also looking to get my butt back out in the shop and getting a couple projects finished up to make room for the Jeep. I'm an old micro-focused fussy type and I liked how you finished up your welds as well as tossing on a layer of fiberglass to give it a nice finished look. When the completed job looks like it was never touched/brand new, you know you did well. I've transitioned to using an air flanger to recess my outer edges and cut the repair panel to lay inside the flange. Once done, the panel lays flat with the outer edge......I use the integrated hole punch to make several holes on the edge of the panel and spot weld as I press the panel down........then finish weld the edges.
Hi Mike , always good work bud . 👍
Thank you Steve! Hope your staying warm!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Its a warm -6 this morning :)
Mike,
First of all, fantastic job (as always) on your videos. I was just wondering why you chose to fiberglass the welded areas ? Is it just to keep the areas silky smooth ? Any other reason behind the glass work ? After seeing you tackle this bodywork, I’m getting the itch to do some bodywork on some of my vehicles.
With this crazy COVID-19 thing going on, my 16 yr old son and I have been taking on a slew of different projects on everyone’s vehicles in my family. But we’re having the time of our lives, tackling each project one by one. Truth be told, your Rowdy series is the impetus for my son and I to tackle more and more complex repairs.
Thank you so much for your in depth tutorials. I sincerely hope that you and your entire family stay safe and healthy in these crazy times.
Regards,
Mike Downey
Thank you Mike for the compliments. The biggest one being that you and your son are inspired and working on projects together... Cheers! So to your question on the Fiberglass. I had observed and even asked questions on other channels and haven't ever received a definitive answer on this subject, but here is what I have summarized. A welded joint has to issues (1) the weld itself is corrosive and will rust easily, (2) There are occasional small holes in the welds. On the top side of the floors (the visible side of the panel. In the case of a Front Fender, it would be the outer side), Short Strand Fiberglass cures like a plastic coating, providing (possibly) a water repellent protection to the weld. It also will fill the small holes very well. I find that it cures harder than body filler. Body Filler can absorb moister and would not be a substitute for fiberglass in this situation. Fiberglass can be sanded smooth and produce a great finished surface. On the bottom side of my floors, I plan to cover the welded joint with seam sealer. Seam Sealer is another product that I have asked many questions about and received different responses. Typically it is used on lap or flanged joints. I do not want to spend the effort to fiberglass and finish the bottom side of these butt joints, and I consider that it is a non-visual area. The Seam Sealer will be there to solely provide moister protection to that joint. It may be overkill, but that is my intention. I have been waiting for the weather to cooperate so that I can finish the body work on the front fenders. I will try to remember to have a short conversation on this and maybe someone more knowledgeable will correct me if I am wrong and we can all benefit! We are all safe... Hope you are as well. This was a great question. My explanation above is how I have sold it to myself and what makes sense to me. Cheers... Mike!
Nice
Thank you Steve! I appreciate you following along and thank you for your service. Mike
Love your videos and they have been my inspiration to tackle my 83 CJ7. Now that I’m starting on the passenger side floor board I’m realizing how good your editing skills are. You made this look easy and it’s not easy. How did you separate the floor board from the sides? My rusted floor boards are a little more eaten up than yours, but the outside isn’t rusted in the same areas that I need to remove on the inside.
I greatly appreciate your message. I try to show all the steps, even the hard ones and the troubled ones. Cause if they caused me trouble, they might you as well. That and a balance of keeping it interesting. To answer your question. I remember cutting the floor very close to the edges with an angle grinder. This allowed me to remove the bulk of the floor. Then. Mine was mostly rusted on the bent flange. A couple of spot welds were drilled out and a lot of wiggling removed that bent flange. It truly is a matter of removing what you can to uncover the next opportunity to get a better angle with possibly another tool to get it all off. Cheers! Mike
thumbs up shared great progress nice work
Grate job mabe I missed it but why fiber glass ? Not bondo , Your videos are awesome and very informative thank you !
My understanding, that many autobody people use short strand fiberglass to cover external welded joints as it is like a plastic coating and provide a great moisture barrier that better fills small holes found in the welds. Body Filler (Bondo) is more porous. On both of my floor pans, I have fiber glassed the topsides and plan to use Seam Sealer on the bottom side. That will protect that welded as well as the Epoxy Primer that will be applied.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Cool that makes sense thanks .
Great video.....What do you use as a rust encapsulator?
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Black Aerosol 15 ounce. I don't currently have a good local auto paint supply company, so I have somewhat standardized on many of the Eastwood products. Cheers and thanks for the feedback. Have fun with your project. Mike
Nice job. I know you made your own patches, but did you check out Classic Enterprises? They have patches available for everything you made, and the rest of their patches are much better quality then everybody else.
I did not. Many of the patches that I needed were such simple metal shapes, I felt it would just be easy to create myself.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike true. Most are relatively flat. Classic has the lower A pillar and a lower B pillar patch that are common. I will need to do all of this on my 81 CJ-8 when the time comes.
Great tutorial video!, I subscribe to your channel!
Glad you enjoyed it. I believe I will soon be getting this floor board in Primer soon, so will will get to see how it looking after we get it in one color. Cheers and thanks for following along!!! Mike
Hey i got the same on my YJ
It is very common on the CJs and I can only assume that the YJs and TJs experience the same issues if you leave the top off. Water just sits there and eats away at the metal. Cheers. Mike
Where’d you buy your floor pans? I’m looking for a set for both the front set and the plot pans behind the seats
I bought mine from Quadratec. Do a Google Search on: Keyparts Jeep CJ.
Again, I was very please with the quality of the stamping. Have fun with yours. Mike
What is the blue fiberglass stuff you are using to smooth out weld seams?
Jason Shiveley Dynaglass short stand fiberglass. It does not need any fabric. It applies like Body filler but provides moisture protection to the weld which is highly prone to developing rust.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike awesome thanks, gotta get some of that, I'm just starting on my 1979 CJ7 and your videos is gonna help me tremendously, I sure do appreciate them.
@@jasonshiveley3820 It is great that you find them useful. Cheers and have fun with your CJ7.
@@UCanDoIt2Mike most definitely will have fun, I just bought it and wanna restore it frame up over the winter, hopefully have it ready by summer. Got quite a bit of work ahead of me but I'm looking forward to it
You made a new friend, hope you dont mind me contacting you if I have questions. .😁😁
if I cant weld can I leave a small overlap and use panel bond?
The heavy critics would say no. In reality, if that is your only choice, it would work. You would need to make sure the patch panel is larger than the hole in the original flooring, and that you place it on top. This would then help provide an overlap (seal) and support. Make sure to finish sealing (maybe some seam sealer) the gap to keep water out of the joint. Your not going to win any awards, but should be able to enjoy yours for quite some time. Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike thank you, did it on a k10 chev before