hi, really congratulations on your bicycle it is very very beautiful, I like it so much and all the components are wonderful 🤩🤩🤩ciao da Milano Italy 👋🏻
Great question! It didn't! I had a derailleur hanger extender that ended up not jiving with RD-737 so I had to abort and ended up with a 32 tooth with the B screw all the way in. I didn't have good footage showing what ended up happening but you can see at the end that the Cassette is much smaller. This bike very shortly after this ended up with its 36 tooth and Deore Rapid Rise. Best laid plans, etc.
In this case it is Amber Shellac. You can use clear or bleached shellacs depending on how you want the colours to turn out. Shellacing cotton bar tape makes it last a lot longer, keeps it colour fast, makes it easier to clean and also improves the grip/feel.
They are Paul Motolites with Paul Love Levers. They are the best rim brakes money can buy in function, appearance and build quality. They are, however, truly an unnecessary upgrade. Any other mid level name brand V-brake is going to be 95% as good. The most important factors to rim brake performance are the brake pads you choose and the post to rim distance. I've got some 90's Diacompe V-brakes I found in the garbage on my other Appaloosa with good Koolstop pads and I would challenge someone to tell the difference in performance in a blind test.
@@brendonoid6133 Thanks for your reply! I use Kool Stop salmon ("for mtb") on my commuter with tektro V brakes and they work superb. I was curious since I notice some fore-aft play in the brake arms and have read that Paul Motolites don't have this. I will still consider them for a dream build though. Thanks again and enjoy your sweet ride 😎
Another great restoration you have done, I love your taped handlebars and thunk about, what someone said to me: Red and yellow- kill that fellow.This refers to snakes.
Wiping away excess grease is a pretty insignificant problem compared to seizing alloy to cro-mo. I've seen some very nice frames totally ruined. If you are talking about the bearing surfaces, I assure you there was not too much.
@@brendonoid6133 I've been tearing down and rebuilding bikes for over 30 years and have never had an issue with it but then again I don't keep a bike more then say 5 or so years but your right, it will wipe away.
@@brendonoid6133You can actually have too much when packing bearings. If you put that much grease in a hub it would be a little draggy. Bottom brackets can take the extra no problem.
Trim the housing, torque a little less sometimes (it's just a derailler), and i would bet my left nut your bb was too tight. Install fixed cup properly, adjustable cup loosely, install drive side crank, and THEN torque down adjustable side iteratively using the drive crank to check for play. Takes time to tighten it down fully, check for play, and redo. But if you want the bb to last, you gotta do it right. Honestly the Park Tools book does a good job describing how to work on adjustable bearing parts.
i cannot imagine you bumping into anyone on earth with a similar set up Bravo
you are on the right path and then some marvelous
whenever your in the saddle your experiencing otherworldliness soak it in
i had no IDEA you we re doing your thing in the OUTback aussie aussie aussie
Beautiful build. I just ordered a Homer and am looking forward to riding a Riv. Very relaxing to watch you work.🚲
a remarkable rig that will become more valuable the more miles that you rack upon it
Like the Handlebars ! Fantastic build.
Beautiful build, especially like your personal touches with twine and thermose holder. Nice stuff
Love the upgraded blue pulleys touch!
Daaaaaaaamn! Beuatiful Riv.
There is more grease involved in this process that I would have guessed at the outset.
hi, really congratulations on your bicycle it is very very beautiful, I like it so much and all the components are wonderful
🤩🤩🤩ciao da Milano Italy 👋🏻
Thank you very much! I am glad that you enjoyed the video!
Masterpiece 🙌🏻
Dream build. Nice job!!
That’s funny. I used to use a stick to apply grease. Two years ago, I upgraded to an old toothbrush 🤣
Some parts bin!
That is a piece of art, except those pedals
Thanks! Yeah, the pedals lasted about 2 weeks before I changed them.
This, ladies and gentleman, is a REAL bicycle.
Very nice!
Those cable cutters should have a proper crimper on them.
I agree! Unfortunately, they don't.
Well done! All around!
Nice build and congrats on the bike! Are those upside down Billie bars?
Yes! After well over 1000kms now on this bike this is my favourite Handlebar arrangement I have ever tried.
@@brendonoid6133 Ah, nice! I've got Billie bars on my Appaloosa, too.
How does that 36 tooth work with that rear mech? I have the same one i was under the impression the biggest it could handle was a 34
Great question! It didn't!
I had a derailleur hanger extender that ended up not jiving with RD-737 so I had to abort and ended up with a 32 tooth with the B screw all the way in. I didn't have good footage showing what ended up happening but you can see at the end that the Cassette is much smaller. This bike very shortly after this ended up with its 36 tooth and Deore Rapid Rise. Best laid plans, etc.
What do you use to cover handebar tape ? Is this oil or what?
In this case it is Amber Shellac. You can use clear or bleached shellacs depending on how you want the colours to turn out.
Shellacing cotton bar tape makes it last a lot longer, keeps it colour fast, makes it easier to clean and also improves the grip/feel.
What is an estimated value of this cruiser...trying to pick one up and curious of what its worth?
The brakes you used, are those Paul brakes? If so, and if you have used others (avid, tektro, shimano...), are they much of an upgrade? Cheers!
They are Paul Motolites with Paul Love Levers. They are the best rim brakes money can buy in function, appearance and build quality. They are, however, truly an unnecessary upgrade. Any other mid level name brand V-brake is going to be 95% as good.
The most important factors to rim brake performance are the brake pads you choose and the post to rim distance. I've got some 90's Diacompe V-brakes I found in the garbage on my other Appaloosa with good Koolstop pads and I would challenge someone to tell the difference in performance in a blind test.
@@brendonoid6133 Thanks for your reply! I use Kool Stop salmon ("for mtb") on my commuter with tektro V brakes and they work superb. I was curious since I notice some fore-aft play in the brake arms and have read that Paul Motolites don't have this. I will still consider them for a dream build though. Thanks again and enjoy your sweet ride 😎
Nice styling!
Are you in the UK? (Front brake rhs)
I'm in Edinburgh...with my Homer.
Thankyou! I live in Australia so we do things properly here too!
Another great restoration you have done, I love your taped handlebars and thunk about, what someone said to me: Red and yellow- kill that fellow.This refers to snakes.
Good job ❤we share hobby😊
Super!
What kind of handlebars are those? Albastache?
What did you paint over the wrap? Is it shellac?
It is amber shellac.
That tall stem. 😂
Why so much grease? I use about 1/4 the amount but I live in dry Texas, maybe your on the Oregon coast or something.
Wiping away excess grease is a pretty insignificant problem compared to seizing alloy to cro-mo. I've seen some very nice frames totally ruined. If you are talking about the bearing surfaces, I assure you there was not too much.
@@brendonoid6133 I've been tearing down and rebuilding bikes for over 30 years and have never had an issue with it but then again I don't keep a bike more then say 5 or so years but your right, it will wipe away.
@@brendonoid6133You can actually have too much when packing bearings. If you put that much grease in a hub it would be a little draggy. Bottom brackets can take the extra no problem.
What cranks are those? Might nice
They are Rivendell Silver Cranks. These ones are the 178mm Low/low steel chainring variant for off road touring.
Great build! Which front rack do you have on it in your ride video?
Thanks! It is the Nitto Campee 27F with the pannier pods removed.
Nice
Trim the housing, torque a little less sometimes (it's just a derailler), and i would bet my left nut your bb was too tight.
Install fixed cup properly, adjustable cup loosely, install drive side crank, and THEN torque down adjustable side iteratively using the drive crank to check for play. Takes time to tighten it down fully, check for play, and redo. But if you want the bb to last, you gotta do it right. Honestly the Park Tools book does a good job describing how to work on adjustable bearing parts.
7:37 someone explain what was this about? A diss on shimano chains?
Great build - very nicely done! I have not scene "2-tone" cloth tape before - who makes this??
Thank you! The tape is two rolls of Newbaums but I have stuck one roll to the other first so it is easier to wrap.
Why do you paint it or glue after??
@@Red-ju4mi It is amber shellac. It makes the cotton tape a lot more durable, grippy and easy to clean.