I want to let you know that I always find your videos to be very well done...focused, informative, well structured!!! I find myself revisiting your videos and always gain additional insight/understanding of points that I missed previously!!! Your attention to the technical details in a very logical manner make your videos particularly useful !!! Keep up the GREAT work...your videos are always enjoyed !!!
Wow, thank you! I love solving the technical challenges and then sharing what I come up with. It's so nice to hear that folks appreciate the effort. Cheers!
Great video with very detailed explanation. Your lures are just perfect, your quality paint jobs using shadowing and other techniques and of course your clear coat. Your clear coat makes the colors in your lures look like the color is very deep layered. You mentioned using microfiber cloths, I use them too and I have two handy tips, 1. You get what you pay for, the bargain bin where you get 400 microfiber cloths for a dollar two ninety eight is not the right place if you're looking for professional, precision results. I buy 3M microfiber cloths, the only bargain using 3M is that you get a quality product that will have a direct positive impact on the outcome of your final product. 2. This is as important as number one, I wash my microfiber cloths by hand using Dawn dish liquid. When they're washed in the washing machine, all laundry detergents have some kind of softener and/or other additives that will leave streaks or residue on your finished product. Great work and I enjoy your channel.
"Scatterbrained" LOL! I'm a designer by trade (retired now) and worked with engineers my whole career... always said that electrical engineers work at a "very high level of confusion", training electrons to do tricks will do that to you :-) Excellent video, great advice! A comment from my experience with "fish-eyes" in resin and finishes - many clothes will have residual chemicals (softeners, dyes, oils, soap etc.) that be dissolved with a cleaner (alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner etc.) and can be deposited onto your surface contaminating it. Found that the cheap paper towels were the safest to work with. My habit was to clean my hands first then use a new towel to clean my surface. ...off to watch more of your videos!
Great summary video. You’re a wizard and truly an unselfish man, for providing your audience w/ the best skills and product solution after countless of hours and $ put into it. Thx.
I make videos of what I love to do...knowing that folks get something they can use, is icing. So you see it's just a little bit selfish😉. Thank you for the encouragement, cheers.
I was looking at your boat during the Intro. It looks like a Key West. I had one that was a 155 model. Loved it until Hurricane Katrina hit, and I had to trade it for trees to be cut and cleared on my property.
Great work Francisco, another top piece of information. Too often we lose sight of the basics only to suffer at the end of the process. Practice makes perfect !
Your videos are excellent. I wish I had seen the lure design films years ago, would have saved me hours and hours of work and countless rejected projects, however we do learn from our mistakes.... Thank you so much for taking the time and trouble to make these little gems of information, please don't stop!!..
Wow! You have an incredible channel! I just found it. I’m a H.S. Art teacher and since we’re an quarantine things are a little different. I just gave out an assignment to make something you would normally buy. I choose fishing lures for my example but have never made one. Going to try and make one from a tree branch. I’m going to binge watch your channel!
You can use a scale, or use cheap 3ml syringes to measure the resin. From making knives and lures, I tend to lean towards the syringe route, it’s quicker for me for small batches of epoxy.
Sure...I keep a few syringes around for mixing two part paints. They're great as long as you keep them separated and don't mix them up on the next batch. I just find it quicker and cleaner to mix by weight. Its really accurate and I don't waste materials or extra containers. Thanks for sharing, I'm sure there are lots of folks out there that can use you technique. Cheers.
I've not got a Turner so I just check on my lures every half to one hour and just check there's no streaks I'm I doing the right thing anything else I can do and great idea heating bottles..
I loved it just what I needed to hear I will pass it on. One thing though I have heard conflicting advice on weighing two part as one part has a higher density and is different and so will not be correct ratio?
That's correct, But there's a workaround for when you have differing densities. Just pour 10 ml in a small graduated cup and weigh it. Do this for both a and B . Then you just check the difference in weight, calculate the percent difference and use that percent different as a multiplier when you are mixing by weight.
Thanks again for responding! For plastic blanks, is the seal coat full polyacrylic or 85/15 dip Do you seal with polycrylic and do a topcoat before the final topcoat of resin or KBS?
You can thin it or not its up to what you prefer. I thin it because I spray it on. I use the polyacrylic after the paint and before the top clear coat and I usually put to top coats on.
Hello. I start making hand made wobblers fishing lures,swimbaits, I have to make protective covering,.i have to make really good defending, last coat for my lures bcz fish like Pike is with very very sharp teeths, making many scratches. In other yours video you told East Coast resin is very good. Tell me please if you know East Coast resin so good for that or wich one is the best,strongest one if you can. i allready spend planty money,i was try use envirotex and others resins but all of them no so good,many scratches ,just cost planty.Help please with my problem.just give please name of epoxy resin wich is ok.East Coast or others thanks
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for unswer.Just looking for best one.Alumi is better for you?I watched few yours video.I really have to buy best one.Thank you
Could you expand on “curing” a lure after carving a sanding it? Since you have not applied any type of coating or material, are you just talking about curing the wood? If so, why is that necessary if it has been sitting on the shelf at hobby lobby for a month?
Just want to be sure I have this straight. You seal the lure with a dip minwax acrylic then after painting it you spray a diluted mix of water and Minwax on it again before putting the top coat of resin on? You also mentioned floor wax in some other videos as a mid coat. Does that work equally as well? I always lear so much from your videos! Absolutely love them!
Yes you got it ..that's the sequence I'm using. It might seem a bit of Overkill but, it's always so disheartening when you just can't get a good clear coat. So I try do my best to guarantee a perfect clear coat. Floor wax works pretty well but I have had occasion wear the paint delaminates from The lure. I have never been absolutely sure that it was the floor wax but I haven't had the issue since I switched to the polyacrylic. Thank you for watching and for the positive feedback
@@EngineeredAngler amazing videos. I catch myself watching a few times. Thank you for all the information. When you thin the poly acrylic for the airbrush midcoat is it 85% poly acrylic and 15% water? Thank you in advance.
@Engineered Angler I've got the same question as lucas w37. My guess is that you thin the polycrylic to 15% by volume using DI water (15 mL of polycrylic to 85 mL of DI to make 100 mL) but that got me thinking that that's a lot of water for a mid-coat before sealing with epoxy. Then on the contrary, you're spraying this on with the same airbrush you use to paint, so thinning with that much water makes sense. So which one is correct lol? Thank you in advance!!
Thx Buddy !!! got al lot problems at the last few lures.I try it now with a coat of Acrylic transparent spray to cover the paintjob.But i think i will try the Minwax Polycrylic ! You spray it with the Airbrush ? what kind of mix i need exactly to spray it ? Or should i dip it ? Would be amazing when you can help me out. Greetings from Germany and a big THX for all your Content !!!
The polycrylic has really given me much better and more consistent quality clear coats. I mix 15% distilled water by volume and spray it with the airbrush. It dries in about an hour and you can clear coat it. Dipping is ok but you will need to allow it to dry for much longer. Good luck.
THAT.....was soooo helpful 🙏🙏🙏 thank you, I’ve got so much still to learn ha ha 🤪🤪 when you think you’ve got it !!! You have a failed resin coat an omg I was hitting a brick wall. But now !! I can see where I was going wrong .... back to the drawing board for me 😎😎👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Thank you thank you thank you! Super beneficial information in this vid for the beginners like me! As far as the poly acrylic mid-coat goes, do you use the semi gloss, high gloss, or flat type of sheen? And do you need to fine sand before applying the epoxy top coat finish ? Thanks in advance!! 🤙🏾
I've been using the semi-gloss but I'm not sure it matters. The matte would work just fine I'm sure. If you end up using a high-gloss you might want to knock the shine down a bit I giving it a light wiping with alcohol.
Again, I appreciate the helpful advice!!! And that’s what I thought, I was thinking the epoxy wouldn’t adhere too good to the glossy or semi-gloss sheens... was gonna just go with flat but was scared it would ruin the finished results... anywho. Thank you ! Learned that there’s a lot more to it then painting a nice lure and a few coats of epoxy. 👍🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾👍🏾
My epoxi recomends beeing handled after 12h. How long +- should i leave my lures on my lure turner? my lure turner is diy with a grill motor, but the thing does overheat, i suspect it will burn soon... its not expensive, on the bright side. However i want to leave it on only the necessary time to improove its life span. thank you. great channel
The reason we turn the lures is to prevent sag of the clear coat so as soon as the resin is stiff enough that it won't sag, you can turn off the turner.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you for your answer. i know it depends on the resin and other factors, but aproximately how long till it stops saagging? just so i dont under or over do it
I appreciate the comment about weighing the epoxy A and B components, however for resins that explicitly state "mix 1:1 by volume" and have different densities, what's the best way to get the exact ratio?
It's easy, just get the specific gravity (SG) of each, A & B. You can usually get it from the paperwork that came with the resin or go to the manufacturer for it. Then take the ratio between the two SG's and create a simple factor. Example: if SG's are A=1.18 and B=1.21, then divide A/B=▶1.18/1.21=0.975. Now if you use 1g of B you would use 0.975g of A. If you start with 1g of A you would use 1.025g of B. Hope that helps....cheers.
Thank you. That was really useful. My last 2 batches of lures were blotchy and the epoxy wasn't adhering to the surface in places. I definitely didn't allow time for the paint to cure. That was one problem. Also used white spirit to clean them before applying epoxy - another mistake. Looking forward to putting your advice into practice👍
Ok thanks alot I was having issues with uneven clear coat I tried this method tonight I warmed the epoxy and just lightly pushed it across the lure much better results thanks for the info very helpful
These days I only use the east coast resin when I want the absolutely most glossy finish I can get and I'm not in a hurry. That means I use it primarily as a substrate for the silver plating. It is pretty bullet proof if you follow the steps I outline unless you have a process you find works for you. The work time is about thirty minutes but here its usually so warm that I don't mix more than I can use in twenty minutes. These days Im using UV resin as my top coat almost always.
My friend does 4 dips of KBS- makes it rock solid and glossy, but you have to keep air out of the jar or it will cure faster. I'd like to know his opinion as well..Can you please do a video on KBS and your experiences with it?
I bought a gallon of KBS more than two or three years ago and was disappointed. When it worked well it was really good. But the storage and handling was such a pain that it wasn't worth it for me. Florida is incredibly humid just opening the lid and closing it, even if you evacuate the air, left you with a skin on top next time you opened it. I wish I could find a clear that I could dip. ..it's so much quicker.
I do it the same as Jekyll baits does she shows how she does it a couple of times and says that it likes to stay around 70 degrees and low humidity to get it to work good but she never said if she had to throw anyway because of bad product. I bought some kbs thinner that they recommended to put into mine and seems to be ok when I dip mine but still not the same as when I first bought it
Hey thanks for the great tips. Still watch all your videos to this day. Love to jump back and pick up tips I missed. When you do your mid coat and cut the polyacrylic, do you use 15% water to 85% poly or is it the other way around? 15% poly to 85% water? Thanks again.
Hi, I have a question about the uv resin from china: I use it as a topcoat for lure and I give it with the brush but there are still air bubbles when I stretch it. I'am using UV lamp.What could I do?
I would not use a foam brush, it produces too many bubbles. Spreading it with your gloved fingers works but its kind of a brute force approach that gives you little control when working with small, detailed lures. I use small disposable bristle brushes.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the reply, I am glad you answered because I was going to use a foam brush . I am not using the epoxy for lures more so as a glue, to glue and stabilize two very flat surfaces. So it does need to go on without bubbles and voids. I will be covering a large surface area, so I am using the devcon 2 ton, it works great, but the last time I used a small cheap natural bristle artist brush and the hairs came out. So what about a nylon/synthetic 1" paint brush?
@@EngineeredAngler I am covering a larger surface area, I am going to use it as a glue, but it still need to not have bubbles etc. So how about a 1" synthetic paint brush?
@@EngineeredAngler Sorry to keep pestering you.. There is no one who has more experience with waterproof epoxy than lure makers! Ok - I got my Devcon 2 ton 30 min epoxy, I know we already ruled out a foam brush, what about a metal or plastic putty knife? Would that spread this epoxy better than a latex gloved finger? I dont want bubbles, or voids, so do i apply epoxy to only one surface or both surfaces before clamping? Thanks again, Mike
If you're talking about 2-part clear resin here's a video: th-cam.com/video/GKVrAwFifIA/w-d-xo.html There's a link in the description for the clear resin. If you are talking about UV Cure resin, I have tried several brands and they all seem to work well.
@@EngineeredAngler how does solarez compare to the chinese hard UV that comes in 200g container. I like that stuff after You recommended it. But seems like solarez is a better price. Any thoughts?
What would you suggest might be the problem where my top coat tends to stick perfectly onto the lure but in a few small water drop sizes it tends to separate?
I think what you're getting is what painters call fish eyes. They are caused by some kind of surface contamination: a bit of dust, oil from your hands, wood oils, solvents from the casting resin. I put out a video on getting a perfect clear coat, you should watch it...it might help you. th-cam.com/video/Z2M1_dc_r_k/w-d-xo.html
Oops sorry, you obviously already watched it. In that case it's really important to have a system like I described in the video. I solved most of my fish eye problems by using the mid coat of polycrylic.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the reply. I will look into the polycrylic. It's weird though, as i made a rounded body stickbait, and a flat sided stickbait and the problem i described only happened to the flat sided one. Will keep trying.
I have a question i just started usein 2 part epox and having problems. I do good on lipless baits maybe some bubbles I use torch on them. My problem is baits with bills they look awful either wavy or lots of bubbles tried torch it doesn't help much. Is there a trick to them or I'm I doing something wrong? I used to kbs dip I like the epoxy better. I may have to dip baits with lips and epoxy lipless. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
@Engineered Angler Lures these are lures with lips made on them. I haven't gotten to the point like you making my own but it's in the future I've only been doing this for 2 years and I think I'm getting better. I started your clear coat method a month ago. I switched to epoxy too. I'm very satisfied with lipless baits but really don't like the results on lip ones. I think you've helped me a lot and inspired me to try to make my own eventually.
Ok by following your video. I think I got it. I sanded bills with 1000 sandpaper then dipped them in min wax the lips look great. So I guess I'll just tape them and not clear coat them like you said. Thanks so much for your video
Yes...most of the time when I'm applying it over the paint I spray it on, thinned 15% with water. If I'm working with wood I'll dip it into uncut poli. before painting.
Thank you! Yes I have been using water based exclusively. It keeps things simple and quick, I use the same air brush for the paint and the midcoat. Just a rinse out and I can move on to the next...
I'm trying kbs next. Been putting it off for awhile now. I don't usually do enough lures to be able to use it during it's shelf life. But it will be so awesome to just dip and hang, no mixing and turning.
I have moved to UV cure resin almost completely. The unly time I use two part resin these days is for a base coat when I plan to silver-plate the lure. I'm using the least expensive Chinese UV resin I can find. But Alumi UV is also good.
The uv resin from Alumilite gives a semi gloss but if you want matte, you would have to spray over it with a matte lacquer. I don't know of anything else.
KBS is good stuff...but I'm not much of a fan. Here in florida the humidity is so high its nearly impossible to keep it from setting up in the can, even with nitrogen. Plus I'm not a fan of dipping lures, its so easy to introduce trash and generate air bubbles. All that said: lots lure makers use KBS and love it...and get really nice results.
This video has helped me tremendously I used to get so frustrated with clear coats. I had lures slick as glass next day bare spots no matter what I tried this fixed that problem thanks for making this.....!!!!!!!!
Do you find ambient temperature and humidity to affect your clear coats? I've noticed that in peak of summer (at least in south MS), clear coats can become more challenging. I reserve that part of the process for early morning or later in evening, as my shop is outdoors.
Yes...humidity is the culprit. It's humid in Florida year round but summer is way more humid and hot. In the Sumner I have to clear coat in the shop with the a/c on.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the insight! Even with the intermediate coats after painting (I use a water-based spar urethane), it takes much longer to fully cure before I can proceed with a final clear.
Hello, thanks for all your videos. I’ve been painting lures for about 6 mos. with good success. I’ve been using devcon 2 ton and alumilite UV. Usually I use the UV on larger lures, I’m concerned about adding a lot of weight from the epoxy, it seems to go on pretty thick. Which brings me to my question. You mentioned East Coast epoxy in one of your vids so I thought I would give it a try. It went on great, thinner than the devcon which was what I was hoping for but the next morning, after having been on the turner all night it looked terrible, huge fish eyes, thin spots, none of which I have if I use the devcon. I follow all your recommendations about handling the lure with gloves, etc. what might I be doing wrong. Thanks, Michael
I have never had the east coast epoxy give me any issues that I didn't have a good idea what caused the problem. Usually its mishandling or the paint didn't dry enough. What kind of paints are you using? I primarily use createx or testors paints. With the createx paints I have to thin them and often the clear coat will give me fish eyes and ripples when I use it over thinned paints especially if the paint has been sitting for a few months. And that has been my experience with every two part resin I've used, including devcon. I have taken to using a mid coat over the paints and that has solved the issues. I use Polycrylic clear gloss thinned 15% with distilled water and spray it on with the airbrush. With big lures I dip it. Hope this helped.
I’ll try the mid-coat, or maybe I’ll stick with the Devcon for the smaller lures an UV for the larger. I was really surprised since, with a little trail and error, I had such good results with the Devcon. Thanks for the quick response I really appreciate that. I’ll have more questions when I star making my own lure blanks. Thanks again.
The video is really about having a system to get the best results from whatever clear resin you are using. The clear I used in the video is no longer available.
@@EngineeredAngler seems like not many people like to help but can you point me in the right direction on getting unpainted blank jerk baits for walleye fishing? i want some of the best kinds. thank you sir. love your page
These days I'm using UV resin exclusively for the final top coat. The only thing I use the 2 part resin for is to get a glassy under-surface to apply silver plate on. Thank you for watching and commenting.
This clear coat isn’t available. Cant find it anywhere and I’ve searched for 3 weeks. Only found one place. Amazon. $94.00 for a .25 pill bottle size container.brutal.
I know...I can't get it anymore either. Try this clear coat, I it has worked well for me: weavegotmaille.com/famowood-glaze-coat-epoxy/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmfmABhCHARIsACwPRABpA55Vm1Wc137KvGGQOYTVed-fB9pwhu3w-a4EdpYb7WjmKGic1rUaAvEeEALw_wcB
if you paint with acrylic and it hasn't cured fully and clear coat with gorilla glue clear the acrylic will bond with the polyurethane and become a piece of rubber
Guys please just go buy a freaking scale for mixing 😂 they literally cost 20 cents at goodwill or free at your local police station.. just go freaking ask. They collect thousands from drug collection
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
I want to let you know that I always find your videos to be very well done...focused, informative, well structured!!!
I find myself revisiting your videos and always gain additional insight/understanding of points that I missed previously!!!
Your attention to the technical details in a very logical manner make your videos particularly useful !!!
Keep up the GREAT work...your videos are always enjoyed !!!
Wow, thank you! I love solving the technical challenges and then sharing what I come up with. It's so nice to hear that folks appreciate the effort. Cheers!
A TON of good information! I'll keep this video and refer back to it often. There is no such thing as too much knowledge. Thank you for this one!
Great video with very detailed explanation. Your lures are just perfect, your quality paint jobs using shadowing and other techniques and of course your clear coat. Your clear coat makes the colors in your lures look like the color is very deep layered. You mentioned using microfiber cloths, I use them too and I have two handy tips, 1. You get what you pay for, the bargain bin where you get 400 microfiber cloths for a dollar two ninety eight is not the right place if you're looking for professional, precision results. I buy 3M microfiber cloths, the only bargain using 3M is that you get a quality product that will have a direct positive impact on the outcome of your final product. 2. This is as important as number one, I wash my microfiber cloths by hand using Dawn dish liquid. When they're washed in the washing machine, all laundry detergents have some kind of softener and/or other additives that will leave streaks or residue on your finished product. Great work and I enjoy your channel.
Thank you so much for the kind works and the tips. Cheers.
"Scatterbrained" LOL! I'm a designer by trade (retired now) and worked with engineers my whole career... always said that electrical engineers work at a "very high level of confusion", training electrons to do tricks will do that to you :-) Excellent video, great advice! A comment from my experience with "fish-eyes" in resin and finishes - many clothes will have residual chemicals (softeners, dyes, oils, soap etc.) that be dissolved with a cleaner (alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner etc.) and can be deposited onto your surface contaminating it. Found that the cheap paper towels were the safest to work with. My habit was to clean my hands first then use a new towel to clean my surface. ...off to watch more of your videos!
Good advice...thank you
There is lot of things people can learn from yours tutorials...great as always and easly explaind.
Thank you very much.
Great summary video. You’re a wizard and truly an unselfish man, for providing your audience w/ the best skills and product solution after countless of hours and $ put into it. Thx.
I make videos of what I love to do...knowing that folks get something they can use, is icing. So you see it's just a little bit selfish😉. Thank you for the encouragement, cheers.
I was looking at your boat during the Intro. It looks like a Key West. I had one that was a 155 model. Loved it until Hurricane Katrina hit, and I had to trade it for trees to be cut and cleared on my property.
Sorry to hear about the boat...but mine is a Fly Craft 18
Hi, thank you for the great video. I have a question. Do you have a video on how to make and paint a jig and how to use the stamping foil?
I have some videos on powder painting jig heads
Man thank you so much! I was having lots of trouble and I think you gave me a good starting point to work it out
Glad I could help!
Great work Francisco, another top piece of information. Too often we lose sight of the basics only to suffer at the end of the process. Practice makes perfect !
Your videos are excellent. I wish I had seen the lure design films
years ago, would have saved me hours and hours of work and countless rejected projects, however we do learn from our mistakes.... Thank you so much for taking the time and trouble to make these little gems of information, please don't stop!!..
Thanks so much for the encouragement....
Wow! You have an incredible channel! I just found it. I’m a H.S. Art teacher and since we’re an quarantine things are a little different. I just gave out an assignment to make something you would normally buy. I choose fishing lures for my example but have never made one. Going to try and make one from a tree branch. I’m going to binge watch your channel!
Welcome aboard! So happy your doing this for your students...let them know I'm happy to answer any questions.
You can use a scale, or use cheap 3ml syringes to measure the resin. From making knives and lures, I tend to lean towards the syringe route, it’s quicker for me for small batches of epoxy.
Sure...I keep a few syringes around for mixing two part paints. They're great as long as you keep them separated and don't mix them up on the next batch. I just find it quicker and cleaner to mix by weight. Its really accurate and I don't waste materials or extra containers. Thanks for sharing, I'm sure there are lots of folks out there that can use you technique. Cheers.
Wow, those brushes are PERFECT! Thank you so much for that. Just went over and purchased them immediately.
Glad you like them!
Do you have a link for those brushes?
I've not got a Turner so I just check on my lures every half to one hour and just check there's no streaks I'm I doing the right thing anything else I can do and great idea heating bottles..
The benefit of having a turner is that it prevents sags in the clear coat. If you're able to do it without a turner then you're golden.
I loved it just what I needed to hear I will pass it on. One thing though I have heard conflicting advice on weighing two part as one part has a higher density and is different and so will not be correct ratio?
That's correct, But there's a workaround for when you have differing densities. Just pour 10 ml in a small graduated cup and weigh it. Do this for both a and B . Then you just check the difference in weight, calculate the percent difference and use that percent different as a multiplier when you are mixing by weight.
Thanks again for responding! For plastic blanks, is the seal coat full polyacrylic or 85/15 dip Do you seal with polycrylic and do a topcoat before the final topcoat of resin or KBS?
You can thin it or not its up to what you prefer. I thin it because I spray it on. I use the polyacrylic after the paint and before the top clear coat and I usually put to top coats on.
Your work is beautiful.
Thank you
I paint plastic lure bodies. Should i use MinWax after the 24 hour paint drying? I understand Min Wax is for wood... thanks for sharing your videos
I find sealing water based paints with the Polycrylic gives me a more consistent quality on my clear coat.
Friend, do you have any video of how to make those wire that serve to grab the lure
Here are some videos that might help:
th-cam.com/play/PLEVBv_zywucR1daeR5wwkcZeqU-GomrKd.html
Hello.
I start making hand made wobblers fishing lures,swimbaits,
I have to make protective covering,.i have to make really good defending, last coat for my lures bcz fish like Pike is with very very sharp teeths, making many scratches.
In other yours video you told East Coast resin is very good.
Tell me please if you know East Coast resin so good for that or wich one is the best,strongest one if you can.
i allready spend planty money,i was try use envirotex and others resins but all of them no so good,many scratches ,just cost planty.Help please with my problem.just give please name of epoxy resin wich is ok.East Coast or others
thanks
Yes east coast resin is a good product.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for unswer.Just looking for best one.Alumi is better for you?I watched few yours video.I really have to buy best one.Thank you
Could you expand on “curing” a lure after carving a sanding it? Since you have not applied any type of coating or material, are you just talking about curing the wood? If so, why is that necessary if it has been sitting on the shelf at hobby lobby for a month?
When i talk about curing I'm referring to the casting resin. The resin is usually the biggest problem with finish imperfections.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you very much! I began to get stressed about my wooden lures!
Loved the vidio. Thanks for the help I learned a lot.
Glad to hear it!
Just want to be sure I have this straight. You seal the lure with a dip minwax acrylic then after painting it you spray a diluted mix of water and Minwax on it again before putting the top coat of resin on? You also mentioned floor wax in some other videos as a mid coat. Does that work equally as well? I always lear so much from your videos! Absolutely love them!
Yes you got it ..that's the sequence I'm using. It might seem a bit of Overkill but, it's always so disheartening when you just can't get a good clear coat. So I try do my best to guarantee a perfect clear coat. Floor wax works pretty well but I have had occasion wear the paint delaminates from The lure. I have never been absolutely sure that it was the floor wax but I haven't had the issue since I switched to the polyacrylic. Thank you for watching and for the positive feedback
@@EngineeredAngler amazing videos. I catch myself watching a few times. Thank you for all the information. When you thin the poly acrylic for the airbrush midcoat is it 85% poly acrylic and 15% water? Thank you in advance.
@Engineered Angler I've got the same question as lucas w37. My guess is that you thin the polycrylic to 15% by volume using DI water (15 mL of polycrylic to 85 mL of DI to make 100 mL) but that got me thinking that that's a lot of water for a mid-coat before sealing with epoxy. Then on the contrary, you're spraying this on with the same airbrush you use to paint, so thinning with that much water makes sense. So which one is correct lol? Thank you in advance!!
could you please show again. on how to make the wire bow lure holder.cant seem to find it.
Well....the truth is, I have never actually shown how I make them. I guess I should get around to doing that...😊
thank you thank you. please take care you and your family.
@@EngineeredAngler please sir lol
Hello,Thank you very much with the very detailed videos.I have a question,how do you avoid yellowing?
The UV cure epoxy doesn't yellow.
Thank you for the answer
Once again, another great video! I always look forward to your uploads..
Thx Buddy !!! got al lot problems at the last few lures.I try it now with a coat of Acrylic transparent spray to cover the paintjob.But i think i will try the Minwax Polycrylic ! You spray it with the Airbrush ? what kind of mix i need exactly to spray it ? Or should i dip it ?
Would be amazing when you can help me out.
Greetings from Germany and a big THX for all your Content !!!
The polycrylic has really given me much better and more consistent quality clear coats. I mix 15% distilled water by volume and spray it with the airbrush. It dries in about an hour and you can clear coat it. Dipping is ok but you will need to allow it to dry for much longer. Good luck.
Thank you so much, I will try to spray it by 85ml Acrylic and 15ml destiled Water. I will look to find it in your Amazon shop to order it 💪🏼👌
Great video, a lot of great information thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
THAT.....was soooo helpful 🙏🙏🙏 thank you, I’ve got so much still to learn ha ha 🤪🤪 when you think you’ve got it !!! You have a failed resin coat an omg I was hitting a brick wall. But now !! I can see where I was going wrong .... back to the drawing board for me 😎😎👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧
Glad it was helpful!
Love your videos they have helped me out greatly the question I have is are you using a glossy or a matte finish on your polycrylic.
The both work...I have used them both
Thank you thank you thank you! Super beneficial information in this vid for the beginners like me! As far as the poly acrylic mid-coat goes, do you use the semi gloss, high gloss, or flat type of sheen? And do you need to fine sand before applying the epoxy top coat finish ? Thanks in advance!! 🤙🏾
I've been using the semi-gloss but I'm not sure it matters. The matte would work just fine I'm sure. If you end up using a high-gloss you might want to knock the shine down a bit I giving it a light wiping with alcohol.
Again, I appreciate the helpful advice!!! And that’s what I thought, I was thinking the epoxy wouldn’t adhere too good to the glossy or semi-gloss sheens... was gonna just go with flat but was scared it would ruin the finished results... anywho. Thank you ! Learned that there’s a lot more to it then painting a nice lure and a few coats of epoxy. 👍🏾🤙🏾🤙🏾👍🏾
I noticed your uv glue has a brush in the cap. Does the one on your store have a built in brush or is this a custom addition?
That's something I added
Priceless video
Can use a spray can of polycrylic for the first prep/seal coat? TIA
Sure...that should work.
You sir are an extreme help
You may have saved me from future tears! Thanks
Hello Franco is the UV resin suitable for toothy fish as some say it’s softer than most, cheers Geordie
It's actually much harder than two part resins
after you paint your fishing lure if white do you hang them to dry or blow dry them
Both
@@EngineeredAngler thank you
My epoxi recomends beeing handled after 12h. How long +- should i leave my lures on my lure turner? my lure turner is diy with a grill motor, but the thing does overheat, i suspect it will burn soon... its not expensive, on the bright side. However i want to leave it on only the necessary time to improove its life span. thank you. great channel
The reason we turn the lures is to prevent sag of the clear coat so as soon as the resin is stiff enough that it won't sag, you can turn off the turner.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you for your answer. i know it depends on the resin and other factors, but aproximately how long till it stops saagging? just so i dont under or over do it
gee...I hesitate to offer a guess. Sorry.
Great Video, some good advice. Is there a build video on your lure hangers? I think you call them lure bows?
I haven't had much interest...but I'll do short how-to soon...
@@EngineeredAngler thank you, perhaps you could expand on how you use them as well?
I appreciate the comment about weighing the epoxy A and B components, however for resins that explicitly state "mix 1:1 by volume" and have different densities, what's the best way to get the exact ratio?
It's easy, just get the specific gravity (SG) of each, A & B. You can usually get it from the paperwork that came with the resin or go to the manufacturer for it. Then take the ratio between the two SG's and create a simple factor. Example: if SG's are A=1.18 and B=1.21, then divide A/B=▶1.18/1.21=0.975. Now if you use 1g of B you would use 0.975g of A. If you start with 1g of A you would use 1.025g of B. Hope that helps....cheers.
Awesome! What do you mean by spreading and pulling the clear coat?
What I think I meant was to use a gentle spreading motion with little pressure, this way you don't introduce additional bubble.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you ever so kindly!
Thank you. That was really useful. My last 2 batches of lures were blotchy and the epoxy wasn't adhering to the surface in places. I definitely didn't allow time for the paint to cure. That was one problem. Also used white spirit to clean them before applying epoxy - another mistake. Looking forward to putting your advice into practice👍
Is this the same process you would use for an unpainted crankbait blank or just for wood lures
I use it for any material I'm painting and then clear-coating.
Ok thanks alot I was having issues with uneven clear coat I tried this method tonight I warmed the epoxy and just lightly pushed it across the lure much better results thanks for the info very helpful
Great system advice!... I could definitely refine mine...Thanks
Hi, do you have a video on you lure bows? Looks interesting.
Never mind, I found it LOL
I know you use East Coast resin what is the working time and how well do you like it
These days I only use the east coast resin when I want the absolutely most glossy finish I can get and I'm not in a hurry. That means I use it primarily as a substrate for the silver plating. It is pretty bullet proof if you follow the steps I outline unless you have a process you find works for you. The work time is about thirty minutes but here its usually so warm that I don't mix more than I can use in twenty minutes. These days Im using UV resin as my top coat almost always.
Great information.
Great tips !
Glad you think so!
What type minwax polycrylic I see different ones like protective finish clear satan other one says crystal clear top coat
amzn.to/3oaBU6F
cant wait for the lure build !
Do you mind sharing the finish of Polycrylic that you use for the mid-coat (gloss, semi-gloss, satin, or matte)? Thanks for the awesome videos!
I'm using a gloss finish...but I'm not sure that matters for a mid coat.
Thanks for this man. Whats your #1 recommended clear coat product?
UV cure epoxy resin...water clear, quick set, super hard, easy to use, won't yellow. Can't beat it.
Have you tried KBS crystal clear coating? if so what’s your opinion
My friend does 4 dips of KBS- makes it rock solid and glossy, but you have to keep air out of the jar or it will cure faster. I'd like to know his opinion as well..Can you please do a video on KBS and your experiences with it?
I bought a gallon of KBS more than two or three years ago and was disappointed. When it worked well it was really good. But the storage and handling was such a pain that it wasn't worth it for me. Florida is incredibly humid just opening the lid and closing it, even if you evacuate the air, left you with a skin on top next time you opened it. I wish I could find a clear that I could dip. ..it's so much quicker.
I do it the same as Jekyll baits does she shows how she does it a couple of times and says that it likes to stay around 70 degrees and low humidity to get it to work good but she never said if she had to throw anyway because of bad product. I bought some kbs thinner that they recommended to put into mine and seems to be ok when I dip mine but still not the same as when I first bought it
I put plastic between the lid and the jar when I close the lid seems to work good just have to make sure when u see a tear to replace it
What type of clear is best.
I prefer UV cure epoxy
how do I get a sample of these? I loved translucent colors ... for Portugal;)
In conclusion, for you with your experience what is the best epoxy resin that you would recommend.
th-cam.com/video/GKVrAwFifIA/w-d-xo.html
Do you cut the miniwax polyacrylic by volume or by weight?
By volume and I use distilled water...not sure it makes a difference though.
@@EngineeredAngler Any yellowing of the polyacrylic underneath the epoxy?
I have not noticed any ...
Hey thanks for the great tips. Still watch all your videos to this day. Love to jump back and pick up tips I missed. When you do your mid coat and cut the polyacrylic, do you use 15% water to 85% poly or is it the other way around? 15% poly to 85% water? Thanks again.
15% water by volume. Thanks for watching and commenting. Cheers
Some people will apply a fine wet sand in between coats of resin - assuming you are applying multiple coats.
Hi, I have a question about the uv resin from china: I use it as a topcoat for lure and I give it with the brush but there are still air bubbles when I stretch it. I'am using UV lamp.What could I do?
You should watch my videos on using the UV resin for clear coating look for the playlist. I show a couple of ways to get the bubbles out...good luck.
When using Devcon 2 ton epoxy, is it best to spread with a finger covered in latex, or would a foam brush work better? Thanks 👍
I would not use a foam brush, it produces too many bubbles. Spreading it with your gloved fingers works but its kind of a brute force approach that gives you little control when working with small, detailed lures. I use small disposable bristle brushes.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the reply, I am glad you answered because I was going to use a foam brush .
I am not using the epoxy for lures more so as a glue, to glue and stabilize two very flat surfaces. So it does need to go on without bubbles and voids. I will be covering a large surface area, so I am using the devcon 2 ton, it works great, but the last time I used a small cheap natural bristle artist brush and the hairs came out. So what about a nylon/synthetic 1" paint brush?
@@EngineeredAngler I am covering a larger surface area, I am going to use it as a glue, but it still need to not have bubbles etc. So how about a 1" synthetic paint brush?
Well if you are using it as glue, a foam brush should work. I would test a small amount to be sure the resin does not dissolve the foam.
@@EngineeredAngler Sorry to keep pestering you.. There is no one who has more experience with waterproof epoxy than lure makers!
Ok - I got my Devcon 2 ton 30 min epoxy, I know we already ruled out a foam brush, what about a metal or plastic putty knife? Would that spread this epoxy better than a latex gloved finger?
I dont want bubbles, or voids, so do i apply epoxy to only one surface or both surfaces before clamping?
Thanks again,
Mike
Could you please help
About the best clear coat for lure ?
Is this process I can use for jigs ?
th-cam.com/video/OHy0uTAq2a0/w-d-xo.html
Any resin brand recommendations??
If you're talking about 2-part clear resin here's a video: th-cam.com/video/GKVrAwFifIA/w-d-xo.html
There's a link in the description for the clear resin.
If you are talking about UV Cure resin, I have tried several brands and they all seem to work well.
@@EngineeredAngler how does solarez compare to the chinese hard UV that comes in 200g container. I like that stuff after You recommended it. But seems like solarez is a better price. Any thoughts?
Solarez is a very different product...I don't recommend it for this.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks I appreciate it
What would you suggest might be the problem where my top coat tends to stick perfectly onto the lure but in a few small water drop sizes it tends to separate?
I think what you're getting is what painters call fish eyes. They are caused by some kind of surface contamination: a bit of dust, oil from your hands, wood oils, solvents from the casting resin. I put out a video on getting a perfect clear coat, you should watch it...it might help you.
th-cam.com/video/Z2M1_dc_r_k/w-d-xo.html
Oops sorry, you obviously already watched it. In that case it's really important to have a system like I described in the video. I solved most of my fish eye problems by using the mid coat of polycrylic.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the reply. I will look into the polycrylic.
It's weird though, as i made a rounded body stickbait, and a flat sided stickbait and the problem i described only happened to the flat sided one.
Will keep trying.
So what finish Minwax finish do you use to seal and what finish for mid coat?
I'm using a gloss...for both.
I have a question i just started usein 2 part epox and having problems. I do good on lipless baits maybe some bubbles I use torch on them. My problem is baits with bills they look awful either wavy or lots of bubbles tried torch it doesn't help much. Is there a trick to them or I'm I doing something wrong? I used to kbs dip I like the epoxy better. I may have to dip baits with lips and epoxy lipless. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
It's generally not a good idea to clearcoat the Lexan lips. I usually install them after I clearcoat or just tape them before I clear.
@Engineered Angler Lures these are lures with lips made on them. I haven't gotten to the point like you making my own but it's in the future I've only been doing this for 2 years and I think I'm getting better. I started your clear coat method a month ago. I switched to epoxy too. I'm very satisfied with lipless baits but really don't like the results on lip ones. I think you've helped me a lot and inspired me to try to make my own eventually.
Ok by following your video. I think I got it. I sanded bills with 1000 sandpaper then dipped them in min wax the lips look great. So I guess I'll just tape them and not clear coat them like you said. Thanks so much for your video
Friend, I understand little English, I would just like to know which brand you recommend most?
Crystal Clear from East Coast Resins (eastcoastresin.com/).
www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Resin-32-Tabletops-Coating/dp/B00U5BPTPU/ref=asc_df_B00U5BPTPU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343386854116&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14236310668411444149&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011717&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-753150889337&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=69410326712&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343386854116&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14236310668411444149&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011717&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-753150889337#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div
Love your videos. Great info!
New subscriber just going through the playlist. Commenting to boost the algorithm. Hope it helps.
Thank you..cheers
When you talk about Mid-coat-cure and use the Minwax Polycrilic, do you simply apply it at 15% with water with the airbrush?
Yes...most of the time when I'm applying it over the paint I spray it on, thinned 15% with water. If I'm working with wood I'll dip it into uncut poli. before painting.
Engineered Angler thank my friend .... eres un crack!
Nice advice
Maybe I missed it but any preference over oil vs water Minwax? I love your videos!!
Thank you! Yes I have been using water based exclusively. It keeps things simple and quick, I use the same air brush for the paint and the midcoat. Just a rinse out and I can move on to the next...
Engineered Angler that’s great going to try that. Keep up the amazing content SO HELPFUL and inspiring. Thank you!!
Thank you...good luck
Have you tried KBS crystal clear coating? if so what’s your option
I'm trying kbs next. Been putting it off for awhile now. I don't usually do enough lures to be able to use it during it's shelf life. But it will be so awesome to just dip and hang, no mixing and turning.
Nice info! What temp and how long do You cure Your resin cast lures in the oven.
With an average size lure I cure for about 40 minutes to an hour at 150 to 175 Deg F.
@@EngineeredAngler Thank You🙏
@@EngineeredAngler is the same for wood lures?
No need to cure the wood...
@@EngineeredAngler thank you. I’m going to follow your instructions on my baits because my finish’s have been inconsistent
Your content is awesome
Thank you.
Thanks very informative and structured
Thanks.
What particular resin do you use for your clear coat?
I have moved to UV cure resin almost completely. The unly time I use two part resin these days is for a base coat when I plan to silver-plate the lure. I'm using the least expensive Chinese UV resin I can find. But Alumi UV is also good.
Is there a way to get matte look?
The uv resin from Alumilite gives a semi gloss but if you want matte, you would have to spray over it with a matte lacquer. I don't know of anything else.
what do you think about KBs
KBS is good stuff...but I'm not much of a fan. Here in florida the humidity is so high its nearly impossible to keep it from setting up in the can, even with nitrogen. Plus I'm not a fan of dipping lures, its so easy to introduce trash and generate air bubbles. All that said: lots lure makers use KBS and love it...and get really nice results.
This video has helped me tremendously I used to get so frustrated with clear coats. I had lures slick as glass next day bare spots no matter what I tried this fixed that problem thanks for making this.....!!!!!!!!
Do you find ambient temperature and humidity to affect your clear coats? I've noticed that in peak of summer (at least in south MS), clear coats can become more challenging. I reserve that part of the process for early morning or later in evening, as my shop is outdoors.
Yes...humidity is the culprit. It's humid in Florida year round but summer is way more humid and hot. In the Sumner I have to clear coat in the shop with the a/c on.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the insight! Even with the intermediate coats after painting (I use a water-based spar urethane), it takes much longer to fully cure before I can proceed with a final clear.
Hello, thanks for all your videos. I’ve been painting lures for about 6 mos. with good success. I’ve been using devcon 2 ton and alumilite UV. Usually I use the UV on larger lures, I’m concerned about adding a lot of weight from the epoxy, it seems to go on pretty thick. Which brings me to my question. You mentioned East Coast epoxy in one of your vids so I thought I would give it a try. It went on great, thinner than the devcon which was what I was hoping for but the next morning, after having been on the turner all night it looked terrible, huge fish eyes, thin spots, none of which I have if I use the devcon. I follow all your recommendations about handling the lure with gloves, etc. what might I be doing wrong.
Thanks,
Michael
I have never had the east coast epoxy give me any issues that I didn't have a good idea what caused the problem. Usually its mishandling or the paint didn't dry enough. What kind of paints are you using? I primarily use createx or testors paints. With the createx paints I have to thin them and often the clear coat will give me fish eyes and ripples when I use it over thinned paints especially if the paint has been sitting for a few months. And that has been my experience with every two part resin I've used, including devcon. I have taken to using a mid coat over the paints and that has solved the issues. I use Polycrylic clear gloss thinned 15% with distilled water and spray it on with the airbrush. With big lures I dip it.
Hope this helped.
I’ll try the mid-coat, or maybe I’ll stick with the Devcon for the smaller lures an UV for the larger. I was really surprised since, with a little trail and error, I had such good results with the Devcon.
Thanks for the quick response I really appreciate that. I’ll have more questions when I star making my own lure blanks. Thanks again.
Great Info Thank You!!
What is the clear called?
The video is really about having a system to get the best results from whatever clear resin you are using. The clear I used in the video is no longer available.
@@EngineeredAngler seems like not many people like to help but can you point me in the right direction on getting unpainted blank jerk baits for walleye fishing? i want some of the best kinds. thank you sir. love your page
Hows it going brother loved your video. Wondering what clear coat you use for final coat. Thanks!
These days I'm using UV resin exclusively for the final top coat. The only thing I use the 2 part resin for is to get a glassy under-surface to apply silver plate on. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks man! I'll be watching more of your videos. Getting into the whole lure building thing. 🤙 you're the man.
You really should look at MinWax Polycrylic gloss............................
I use it all the time...as a mid coat
This clear coat isn’t available. Cant find it anywhere and I’ve searched for 3 weeks. Only found one place. Amazon. $94.00 for a .25 pill bottle size container.brutal.
I know...I can't get it anymore either. Try this clear coat, I it has worked well for me: weavegotmaille.com/famowood-glaze-coat-epoxy/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmfmABhCHARIsACwPRABpA55Vm1Wc137KvGGQOYTVed-fB9pwhu3w-a4EdpYb7WjmKGic1rUaAvEeEALw_wcB
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks. That looks to be the same two part I use called Envirotex
No worries, I tried Diamond clear and its amazing so far
if you paint with acrylic and it hasn't cured fully and clear coat with gorilla glue clear the acrylic will bond with the polyurethane and become a piece of rubber
@00.41 what kind of boat is it?
Can’t use a hair dryer pop any bubbles
KBS Diamond Coat. It’s actually that simple
KBS is really good but storage is difficult in humid climates...I had an entire gallon go bad.
All I can Say is....KBS....expensive...worth every penny...three coats for saltwater
I love it
Guys please just go buy a freaking scale for mixing 😂 they literally cost 20 cents at goodwill or free at your local police station.. just go freaking ask. They collect thousands from drug collection
Are you a nuclear safety engineer?
No I'm Civil/mechanical /aerospace.
One of the lures has obvious blemishes!.. Just sayin'.
Could you please help
About the best clear coat for lure ?
Is this process I can use for jigs ?
Watch this...
th-cam.com/video/GKVrAwFifIA/w-d-xo.html