I made my own giant delta. I sorta rebuilt it a few times, and the most recent iteration, it has a 500mm bed (mains powered heater)-- obviously as a delta it can only print the diameter, but the actual bed is square, which makes sourcing a flex sheet and heater easier. I have a large CNC, so I machined the aluminum parts -- including the bed and things that hold the bed. The uprights are 1500mm, and it has an electronics basement, so sorry to mix units, but it's effectively 6' tall. I am using linear rails, not brand name, but well made ones. Actual build envelope the true cylinder (not counting the cone) -- is 490(diameter)x740 height. I made a relatively light weight effector -- and had it SLS printed out of glass fiber nylon. To that I have a slice mosquito magnum with a generally permanent .8mm nozzle -- I have a 1.2mm nozzle I will be trying for some bigger prints, with a direct drive Sherpa Mini extruder. I recently upgraded to RRF3 on the duet board, and after input shaping calibration, accelerations are at 6500mm/sec^2 , no ringing on at well over 100mm/sec -- note I am using a .8mm nozzle and .4mm layers. Doing some additional tests I need to brace the towers, as I do plan to update the enclosure with 2x4 lumber and secure the uprights to the enclosure to mitigate vibrations. Deltas are a lot of fun, and I will be making a large near life size character for my 6 year old son on it -- as soon as decides what he wants. He first requested an among us -- now he is over that.
Ive had this machine for a few weeks and all in all its been very impressive. One thing i will mention. You are correct that you shouldn't have to use the probe to relevel often, if at all. However, when i upgraded to the latest FLSUN firmware (v1.3), i went to start a new print and my level was off and the nozzle ended up grinding against the bed. There was no indication in their firmware upgrade instructions to do so, so just a heads up for anyone upgrading firmware. Do relevel before starting a new print with the new firmware to save yourself some peace of mind.
@@matthewwain9958 just bringing this up for people with less 3d printing experience than myself so they don’t make the same mistakes I did when following the manufacturers written instructions.
I've had my SR for about a year - it's my favourite printer - replacing my Ender 3. Added a V2.0 BMG extruder, PEI flexible bed, full size Dragon heatblock, and 0.6mm nozzle. I love watching it print - and it's so much faster than my Ender.
aha - you put the v2 BMG? can you tell me if it improved the printing and was it a real one or a triangle labs or something? :) watching it print is mesmerising...I'm probably gonna try some timelapses
@@LostInTech3D it's a TriangleLabs clone v2.0 - plus I ordered a v2.0 shell as well to reuse the guts of the factory extruder as a spare. I never had any problems with the original - but others have - so it was proactive replacement. Slowing retraction speed from 60mm/s (stock profile) to 40mm/s drastically reduces the noise.
Recently just put an OMG V2s extruder on mine and pretty happy with it. PEI sheet next upgrade and was wondering which did you get? Also do you have Klipper or plan you install it? Wonderful machines these are.
Im so glad manufacturers are no focusing on speed and build size this year. once printed TPU ON MY i3 mega with all my PLA settings because i was high and fell asleep. woke up to a perfect print, that kind of risk i will never take again. would love to see a consumer grade SCARA arm type printer
My Q5 is amazing. It prints right out of the box and is easy to setup and use. I was thinking about this printer yesterday actually, glad you mentioned the newer version they have in the works. Also, deltas just look so freakin cool lol
I still have my original 3d printer, the Rostock Max V2. Haven't used it in a while but am going to try and get it set up again just to have it for funsies. It's just interesting to watch it do it's thing.
Great video dude, I don't think i have a single question to ask.... really got all I needed to know from the content :). I run an Anycubic kossel linear plus and this new FLSUN machine looks like a monster! looking forward to your next delta video
I have a qq-s pro. I liked it but always had first layer issues. So I tried Marlin and it helped. It sat for awhile. I've been messing with Klipper on my other printers and found someone that made a config for that printer. Now it's unbelievable and like a whole new machine. 1st layer goes down every time.
I have a FLSUN QQ-S Pro and I have an opinion on the Super Racer and that is "It's overkill!". Buy a delta printer because you want a delta printer for diversity or because you think the motion looks cool but don't fall for the hype on speed. Even at modest, faster than cartesian, speeds the artifacts are clearly evident. You can see ghosting and other visual effects unique to delta motion. Whether you're throwing a lightweight print head about on a single axis, or on three, the laws of mechanics and physics still apply. I bought my QQ-S Pro for about half the indicated price of the Super Racer. It has a Titan clone extruder and V6 clone hotend. It makes no pretence about offering huge flow rates (and thus printing speed) but produces decent quality prints reliably. The only downside I see with my printer is the fixed print bed which means that you need to take great care to avoid damage from nozzle scrapes but that comes with experience. This, in part, is why deltas weren't advised as a first printer. Will the V400 improve on the Super Racer or is it just another "new" delta for TH-camrs to review and recommend their subscribers to buy?
I certainly hope so, there's some speculation going round but I'll wait for solid info. Also, you can change the bed on the SR, which seems like a huge improvement on the QQ...as you say, non swappable beds, never a good thing.
I happen to like my FLSUN SR it was easy to assemble and once you get the Z height set properly and run the bed leveling sequence, you don't have to adjust anything until you change the nozzle. The bond-tech clone extruder is a little loud at the stock setting but works better if you increase the retraction speed. I find retraction speed at around 130 mm/s works good for me. I did order a new all metal extruder. Also the power switch is a point of failure, but is easily repaired or eliminated. I removed the power switch on mine and use a power strip with a breaker built into the power strip. Also added RGBWW LED lights, printed new axis "feet", spool holder and tool holders. FLSUN had me at Speed Racer...I mean Super Racer. I look forward to the new FLSUN 400.
Unrelated I've been using CHEPs ultrafast CURA profile(settings cloned from ultimaker printers) and it saves a TON of time...need to tweak it a LOT(especially for petg) but CRAZY FAST once you get it working- I think the profile optimises acceleration and travel settings
Separate retraction from extrusion, Robert is your parents sibling. Mount a small solenoid between the hot-end and the Bowden tube fitting such that when actuated, the Bowden tube fitting is pushed away from the hot-end. Rather than pull back a length of filament through the tube, move the end of the tube! New Retraction-cycle: 1) Stop the extruder 2) Energize solenoid to retract filament 3) move effector 4) de-energize solenoid to return filament to feed position 5) resume extrusion. Filament is no longer being 'chewed' by the extruder when lots of retraction occurs. Need to change the firmware a bit...
PLEASE keep us updated on your progress with the SR! I just got it as my first printer and been having a blast! I'm interested in any settings or upgrades you may find that help the print quality.
I have an SR myself and I don't like the extruder either. I bought a Sherpa Mini extruder so I'll be converting it to DD soon. My most liked upgades so far are a bimetal heatbreak (get the 27mm one - overall length; for CR10, I think) and a full size volcano block. I had a problem with filament getting jammed into a small gap between nozzle and PTFE tube, which was pretty annoying.. Regarding the extruder: I have replaced a similar generic BMG clone on my other printer. I too went with a BMG V2 by Trianglelab and could not be happier with it :) I can't recommend that thing enough
depends on the scissors 😉 but generally not for capricorn as it has a huge wall. The "getting square" issue is the main concern on the other end. I do have cutters :)
I absolutely LOVE my SR. All that really needs to be upgraded is the extruder, ptfe tube and MAINLY the heater block. After I did this I was able to print at 150 mm/s with amazing results. I can also get great results at 200 mm/s with my Ludicrous profile. A 10 minute benchy... at 75% scale. Yes with a few updates this machine is a true beast. Let me know if you want to try the Ludicrous profile or see it in action.
TH-cam keeps removing any comments with links. So I will put them in a video description of my printer in ludicrous mode. Coming soon. Here's a list with out links. Real volcano all metal hot end, micro swiss extruder and flsun pei plate
I have no experience of Deltas but I reckon the extruder ought to be mounted on a tri-pivot platform between the three vertical slides. That way it's always a set height above the hotend (and would point directly at it) but without putting any extra mass on the effector.
I had to build my own marlin version and one thing anyone interested should now that the touch screen needs the 11500 Baudrate. The touch screen itself has a microSD card under the case for updates and uses only 4 wires to communicate with the Robin Nano. I was stumped for Days trying to troubleshoot why the touchscreen only showed the FLSUN logo when using a few community Firmwares. I don't know how they did it but I believe the LCD communicates over Serial like octoprint does.
Yeah I bought one of their brands the Flsun FQQ and that was a nightmare the printer had fell apart I was disappointed with the customer service never had it fixed haven't heard as a door stand And you're lucky that they contacted you back they laughed at me told me to figure it out
for e-steps? CHEP has the best guide I think. For changing the tube? Again probably CHEP, but pull the plastic locking tab out of the connector, then push it in while pulling the tube. It's called a "pneumatic connector".
I have had my SR for a week or so now. I love it! I'm new to owning my own 3d printer and am learning the components. What extruder would be the ultimate upgrade for this printer? There are so many options. Everyone is recommending it, but I can't figure out what to buy.
I dunno if you can fit the v400 extruder because that one is actually really good. Have a poke round the forums and replies here... people do tend to recommend one, I forgot the name
It seems like the extruder has some weaknesses. What would be a better upgrade? I've read the teeth tend to chew up the filament causing failures. What's your thoughts about buying a flexible build plate and putting it over the glass to get better adhesion?
official bondtech extruder if you can afford it, maybe even DD mounted. PEI sheet should work fine, remove the glass and install it properly, it works well on the V400 (successor)
looking forward to seeing how this goes my ender 3 pro i can have running upwards of 500mm/s on big prints litterally had it at 1000% on my bigtree marlin on a box print plus some jerk control but this things a beast of a out of the box printer im yet to see the need to upgrade my ender except purely for larger build volume print quality and speed is nuts for only a 40w heater and stock hot end besides direct drive conversion why does it have a 3 to one ratio? as thats usually for the smaller pancake motors thats a fulll size 45nm motor it can drive directly and super fast
I actually never thought about that, I just checked, it sends an arc command! G3! That's something you don't see often! ; Extrude about 40 mm by printing a 90 degree arc G3 X0 Y-130 I130 Z0.3 E40 F2700
Seeing that Benchy failing, makes me wonder if future printers will have a camera that monitors the printer, and sounds an alarm when things start to go wrong.
I have the SR, with LGX light direct drive, The extruder stock is crap and sucks worse then any other clone, You can also change the accel to 3600 in the firmware from the 2800 stock with no issues.
I have the QQ-S Pro, and haven't been that impressed with the auto level system. Manually need to adjust after which really, shouldn't be necessary. Looking forward to the VL400 to see what that can bring. I only really care about height the lack of PITA leveling these were meant to bring. I print PETG so overall speed isn't important. layer shifts have plagued me though even with new belts.
if you mean having to set the z-offset, yeah I'm afraid it's necessary. Nozzles are different lengths and unless you probe with the nozzle itself, you will always have to set a z-offset on ABL. Layer shifts sounds bad though.
Z offset for every measured point is what needs to me adjusted many people found. This should not be necessary but sadly is. Fine adjustment as such, but the auto level didn't do a decent job like on a cartesian would that only needs home offset sorting.
2/3 of my printers have bmg clones from TL, I love them. You know you can just pull open the lever instead of messing with the tensioning knob right? :P
@@LostInTech3D Yeah, I saw that part too haha. I've only bought two rolls of TPU myself, which is some of the firmest TPU you can buy I believe, like 95A? (I actually wish I could buy some that were even stiffer) So I suppose for my use, I've never had issues with TL's BMG's. They both have the hotends directly attached to the BMG too (V6 and volcano), so I imagine I would be able to print flexibles a lot easier because of that. I'd use two BMG's on my dual extruder machine as well, but.. money xD
@@LostInTech3D it's weird I have tried 3 different browsers with incognito tabs too. Maybe I am doing something wrong. Will try a different pc. Hopefully that will solve the issue. Thanks for the quick reply
I dont understand the fuzz around delta. It may look cool to someone but for proper printing you can use much better motion systems. Delta is good for pick and place robots. For cheap money you get cheap product. Though that is not even cheap but oh well.
Actually FLsun is illegally using the firmware on the SR, since they refuse to release the complete source code of the binaries they distribute. And they didn't release ANY source code of the newest version.
That's not unusual sadly. I'm vaguely aware of the new firmware since the review, but I haven't installed it due to the lack of source code. If I speak to them I'll ask what is going on, they released the 1.3 code, so I don't see why they can't do it now.
@@LostInTech3D There's still things missing from the 1.3 source code, too, so they're not compliant here either. And of course they will tell you that they will release everything and fix whatever is wrong, but they won't. Not unless enough people make enough of a fuss about it to hurt their sales. And I, for one, will actively recommend against FLsun printers until they release the full source code as they have to by international law.
In itself a good printer only a disaster to get a really good first layer over the entire bed. As a result, this printer has become unusable for me and it is only gathering dust.
@@LostInTech3D I also have no idea what it is about. really tried everything. new bed, different delta calibrations, etc etc. it's not extremely bad but far from perfect and certainly a lot worse than other printers.
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I made my own giant delta. I sorta rebuilt it a few times, and the most recent iteration, it has a 500mm bed (mains powered heater)-- obviously as a delta it can only print the diameter, but the actual bed is square, which makes sourcing a flex sheet and heater easier. I have a large CNC, so I machined the aluminum parts -- including the bed and things that hold the bed. The uprights are 1500mm, and it has an electronics basement, so sorry to mix units, but it's effectively 6' tall. I am using linear rails, not brand name, but well made ones. Actual build envelope the true cylinder (not counting the cone) -- is 490(diameter)x740 height. I made a relatively light weight effector -- and had it SLS printed out of glass fiber nylon. To that I have a slice mosquito magnum with a generally permanent .8mm nozzle -- I have a 1.2mm nozzle I will be trying for some bigger prints, with a direct drive Sherpa Mini extruder. I recently upgraded to RRF3 on the duet board, and after input shaping calibration, accelerations are at 6500mm/sec^2 , no ringing on at well over 100mm/sec -- note I am using a .8mm nozzle and .4mm layers. Doing some additional tests I need to brace the towers, as I do plan to update the enclosure with 2x4 lumber and secure the uprights to the enclosure to mitigate vibrations. Deltas are a lot of fun, and I will be making a large near life size character for my 6 year old son on it -- as soon as decides what he wants. He first requested an among us -- now he is over that.
Please post a video man this look amazing
yes please! I want to see
@@mophie6941 maybe when I redo the enclosure I'll post some videos.
Well did you post the pics? Where did you get the plans to DIY it? Thanks@@kazolar
Ive had this machine for a few weeks and all in all its been very impressive. One thing i will mention. You are correct that you shouldn't have to use the probe to relevel often, if at all. However, when i upgraded to the latest FLSUN firmware (v1.3), i went to start a new print and my level was off and the nozzle ended up grinding against the bed. There was no indication in their firmware upgrade instructions to do so, so just a heads up for anyone upgrading firmware. Do relevel before starting a new print with the new firmware to save yourself some peace of mind.
Good info! Thanks. I will put it in the description
To be fair here, that's normal. New firmware on majority of machines resets every thing, and you need to redo all the calibration.
@@matthewwain9958 just bringing this up for people with less 3d printing experience than myself so they don’t make the same mistakes I did when following the manufacturers written instructions.
Gotcha 👍
that's normal, firmware wont carry your personal settings over
I've had my SR for about a year - it's my favourite printer - replacing my Ender 3.
Added a V2.0 BMG extruder, PEI flexible bed, full size Dragon heatblock, and 0.6mm nozzle.
I love watching it print - and it's so much faster than my Ender.
aha - you put the v2 BMG? can you tell me if it improved the printing and was it a real one or a triangle labs or something? :)
watching it print is mesmerising...I'm probably gonna try some timelapses
@@LostInTech3D it's a TriangleLabs clone v2.0 - plus I ordered a v2.0 shell as well to reuse the guts of the factory extruder as a spare.
I never had any problems with the original - but others have - so it was proactive replacement.
Slowing retraction speed from 60mm/s (stock profile) to 40mm/s drastically reduces the noise.
I had no idea you can get a 'shell'! Awesome!
Recently just put an OMG V2s extruder on mine and pretty happy with it. PEI sheet next upgrade and was wondering which did you get? Also do you have Klipper or plan you install it? Wonderful machines these are.
Hey, I'm interested in upgrading my SR's for my business -- would you mind sharing some links for the upgrades you've mentioned? Thanks!
Im so glad manufacturers are no focusing on speed and build size this year. once printed TPU ON MY i3 mega with all my PLA settings because i was high and fell asleep. woke up to a perfect print, that kind of risk i will never take again. would love to see a consumer grade SCARA arm type printer
My Q5 is amazing. It prints right out of the box and is easy to setup and use. I was thinking about this printer yesterday actually, glad you mentioned the newer version they have in the works. Also, deltas just look so freakin cool lol
They do indeed, and a bit scary when they suddenly start descending really fast 😂
I still have my original 3d printer, the Rostock Max V2. Haven't used it in a while but am going to try and get it set up again just to have it for funsies. It's just interesting to watch it do it's thing.
Great video dude, I don't think i have a single question to ask.... really got all I needed to know from the content :). I run an Anycubic kossel linear plus and this new FLSUN machine looks like a monster! looking forward to your next delta video
I have a qq-s pro. I liked it but always had first layer issues. So I tried Marlin and it helped. It sat for awhile. I've been messing with Klipper on my other printers and found someone that made a config for that printer. Now it's unbelievable and like a whole new machine. 1st layer goes down every time.
I've noticed TT did a video on klipper on the SR...I'll be checking that out in due course :)
I have a FLSUN QQ-S Pro and I have an opinion on the Super Racer and that is "It's overkill!".
Buy a delta printer because you want a delta printer for diversity or because you think the motion looks cool but don't fall for the hype on speed.
Even at modest, faster than cartesian, speeds the artifacts are clearly evident. You can see ghosting and other visual effects unique to delta motion.
Whether you're throwing a lightweight print head about on a single axis, or on three, the laws of mechanics and physics still apply.
I bought my QQ-S Pro for about half the indicated price of the Super Racer. It has a Titan clone extruder and V6 clone hotend. It makes no pretence about offering huge flow rates (and thus printing speed) but produces decent quality prints reliably.
The only downside I see with my printer is the fixed print bed which means that you need to take great care to avoid damage from nozzle scrapes but that comes with experience. This, in part, is why deltas weren't advised as a first printer.
Will the V400 improve on the Super Racer or is it just another "new" delta for TH-camrs to review and recommend their subscribers to buy?
I certainly hope so, there's some speculation going round but I'll wait for solid info.
Also, you can change the bed on the SR, which seems like a huge improvement on the QQ...as you say, non swappable beds, never a good thing.
I happen to like my FLSUN SR it was easy to assemble and once you get the Z height set properly and run the bed leveling sequence, you don't have to adjust anything until you change the nozzle. The bond-tech clone extruder is a little loud at the stock setting but works better if you increase the retraction speed. I find retraction speed at around 130 mm/s works good for me. I did order a new all metal extruder. Also the power switch is a point of failure, but is easily repaired or eliminated. I removed the power switch on mine and use a power strip with a breaker built into the power strip. Also added RGBWW LED lights, printed new axis "feet", spool holder and tool holders. FLSUN had me at Speed Racer...I mean Super Racer. I look forward to the new FLSUN 400.
130mm/s is extremely fast. 5.5mm @ 90mm/s seems to be the go to for the super racer.
@@sausagefingers714
I slowed the speed to 70 mm/s
Unrelated I've been using CHEPs ultrafast CURA profile(settings cloned from ultimaker printers) and it saves a TON of time...need to tweak it a LOT(especially for petg) but CRAZY FAST once you get it working- I think the profile optimises acceleration and travel settings
I've been following along with the CHEP profile journey 😉
I'd love to get a rundown for the settings you use!
Separate retraction from extrusion, Robert is your parents sibling.
Mount a small solenoid between the hot-end and the Bowden tube fitting such that when actuated, the Bowden tube fitting is pushed away from the hot-end.
Rather than pull back a length of filament through the tube, move the end of the tube!
New Retraction-cycle:
1) Stop the extruder 2) Energize solenoid to retract filament 3) move effector 4) de-energize solenoid to return filament to feed position 5) resume extrusion.
Filament is no longer being 'chewed' by the extruder when lots of retraction occurs.
Need to change the firmware a bit...
PLEASE keep us updated on your progress with the SR! I just got it as my first printer and been having a blast! I'm interested in any settings or upgrades you may find that help the print quality.
Will do!
I have an SR myself and I don't like the extruder either. I bought a Sherpa Mini extruder so I'll be converting it to DD soon. My most liked upgades so far are a bimetal heatbreak (get the 27mm one - overall length; for CR10, I think) and a full size volcano block. I had a problem with filament getting jammed into a small gap between nozzle and PTFE tube, which was pretty annoying..
Regarding the extruder: I have replaced a similar generic BMG clone on my other printer. I too went with a BMG V2 by Trianglelab and could not be happier with it :) I can't recommend that thing enough
I've bought a conversion shell thing to convert it to a v2 extruder. We'll see how that pans out 😅
A bimetal heat break makes a lot of sense.
i also own a SR and i love this printer! This is my 7. printer :-)
looks like an excellent workhorse for the newer printer that wantsa big fast build
I print wearable shoes on a delta using a zesty nimble. Highly recommend it for flexible filaments!
wow, that thing looks tiny!
I honestly didn't know deltas were that different from cartesian so I'm looking forward to learning even more from the delta video
I started looking at the maths, then I realised it wasn't going to be a "quick section"....yeah they're quite different! 😂
Really should use a tubing cutter or sharp razor to cut the capricorn tubing. Scissors crush before they cut and can cause a lot of resistance
depends on the scissors 😉 but generally not for capricorn as it has a huge wall. The "getting square" issue is the main concern on the other end. I do have cutters :)
It took me forever and some cm to get it cutted straight.
I absolutely LOVE my SR. All that really needs to be upgraded is the extruder, ptfe tube and MAINLY the heater block. After I did this I was able to print at 150 mm/s with amazing results. I can also get great results at 200 mm/s with my Ludicrous profile. A 10 minute benchy... at 75% scale. Yes with a few updates this machine is a true beast.
Let me know if you want to try the Ludicrous profile or see it in action.
link ur upgrades, my sr comes tomorrow
TH-cam keeps removing any comments with links. So I will put them in a video description of my printer in ludicrous mode. Coming soon.
Here's a list with out links.
Real volcano all metal hot end, micro swiss extruder and flsun pei plate
I have no experience of Deltas but I reckon the extruder ought to be mounted on a tri-pivot platform between the three vertical slides. That way it's always a set height above the hotend (and would point directly at it) but without putting any extra mass on the effector.
I had to build my own marlin version and one thing anyone interested should now that the touch screen needs the 11500 Baudrate. The touch screen itself has a microSD card under the case for updates and uses only 4 wires to communicate with the Robin Nano. I was stumped for Days trying to troubleshoot why the touchscreen only showed the FLSUN logo when using a few community Firmwares. I don't know how they did it but I believe the LCD communicates over Serial like octoprint does.
yeah I spotted the firmware for the screen, I heard people mention the hidden sd slot in there. Did you get anywhere with the screen though?
Out of mind 🤯🤯
the bmg lgx fixes the issues you metion .. its by far the best imo
I will look into it, its not cheap though is it!
Yeah I bought one of their brands the Flsun FQQ and that was a nightmare the printer had fell apart I was disappointed with the customer service never had it fixed haven't heard as a door stand And you're lucky that they contacted you back they laughed at me told me to figure it out
I think the SR was much better than the QQ, but I'm sorry to hear how they responded to you...that's not cool.
Awesome video now I just need to see how hard it is to replace the tubing and the extruder
Not too tricky actually! Just remember to change the E-Steps
@@LostInTech3D may I ask what would be a good resource to search not much on TH-cam
for e-steps? CHEP has the best guide I think. For changing the tube? Again probably CHEP, but pull the plastic locking tab out of the connector, then push it in while pulling the tube. It's called a "pneumatic connector".
I have had my SR for a week or so now. I love it! I'm new to owning my own 3d printer and am learning the components. What extruder would be the ultimate upgrade for this printer? There are so many options. Everyone is recommending it, but I can't figure out what to buy.
I dunno if you can fit the v400 extruder because that one is actually really good. Have a poke round the forums and replies here... people do tend to recommend one, I forgot the name
No fan of Delta-Printers, but thy are fascinating to watch
Thanks for your experiences with all of us 🙂
It seems like the extruder has some weaknesses. What would be a better upgrade? I've read the teeth tend to chew up the filament causing failures. What's your thoughts about buying a flexible build plate and putting it over the glass to get better adhesion?
official bondtech extruder if you can afford it, maybe even DD mounted. PEI sheet should work fine, remove the glass and install it properly, it works well on the V400 (successor)
looking forward to seeing how this goes my ender 3 pro i can have running upwards of 500mm/s on big prints litterally had it at 1000% on my bigtree marlin on a box print plus some jerk control but this things a beast of a out of the box printer im yet to see the need to upgrade my ender except purely for larger build volume print quality and speed is nuts for only a 40w heater and stock hot end besides direct drive conversion why does it have a 3 to one ratio? as thats usually for the smaller pancake motors thats a fulll size 45nm motor it can drive directly and super fast
I know, I thought that about the motor too, could have been a pancake easily.
Great review man 😊Is the extruder some kind of triangle labs or clone of one?
it's just a total generic unit. A switch to a trianglelabs is something I'm strongly considering.
Great review. Can you share your purge line code for a Delta printer? I could never figure that one out.
I actually never thought about that, I just checked, it sends an arc command! G3! That's something you don't see often!
; Extrude about 40 mm by printing a 90 degree arc
G3 X0 Y-130 I130 Z0.3 E40 F2700
Just checkout the latest Cura or Prusa profiles. They also have a nice Pause after purge to „cut“ the string.
Seeing that Benchy failing, makes me wonder if future printers will have a camera that monitors the printer, and sounds an alarm when things start to go wrong.
the future is now, if you set up "spaghetti detective".
@@LostInTech3D
"Spaghetti" may be the detection key here, as you could 'train' the camera to look for fine fibres, as opposed to distorted prints :) .
@@LostInTech3D
Oops. I just realised that you were naming a system that already exists :) .
Should check out the OMG V2. Really nice all metal extruder
I've heard good things about it
FLSun just dropped a pretty big firmware update!
Check it out if you can. Hit me up if you have problems installing it!
Thanks for the update..I hope they plan to release the marlin source, until then I'll hold back.
@@LostInTech3D yes that has been discussed on the Facebook page already. I hope so too!
@@DefY0806 looks like you might be able to turn off the beep in the update?! :)
@@LostInTech3D yes you can indeed! :)
But after getting used to it it feels weird without the feedback so actually I'll leave it on for now :D
Checked the description and don't see your tpu settings
Sorry - I forgot to add it - www.lostintech.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/04/Lost-in-tech-flsun-sr-tpu-profile2.curaprofile
Hey, cool video ! The link for your TPU profile is dead, can you upload it again ? :)
Thanks!
Should be fixed now!
I have the SR, with LGX light direct drive, The extruder stock is crap and sucks worse then any other clone, You can also change the accel to 3600 in the firmware from the 2800 stock with no issues.
I'll give it a go, but after my boat...maybe I'll stick with stock for now 😂
Does the direct drive affect the max speed/acceleration much?
I'd like the purge line gcode from this printer for my qq-s.
; Extrude about 40 mm by printing a 90 degree arc
G3 X0 Y-130 I130 Z0.3 E40 F2700
(but make sure the QQ can understand G3 (arc) )
@@LostInTech3D ok, I'm assuming I'll just have to adjust for bed size. I think the qq-s is a little bigger.
I have one, great printer.
Hi, I can't download the flsun sr tpu profile, it tells me pages not found. Could you update the link?
yeah I need to fix that, if you want it quickly hop on discord and I'll send you it!
@@LostInTech3D hi, i installed discord and created an account name picopones but not so how to add you
Can you do a video comparing Octoprint, Mainsail and Fluid.
How to choose what's right for you?
Good idea! on the list
I was told that Mainsail Klipper is better than Octoprint but as a noob I feel like I was thrown into the deep end.
What is a Extruder that doesn’t suck in your opinion?
People who have the orbiter seem to really like it! Otherwise, anything genuine from BMG or E3D I guess.
I have the QQ-S Pro, and haven't been that impressed with the auto level system. Manually need to adjust after which really, shouldn't be necessary.
Looking forward to the VL400 to see what that can bring. I only really care about height the lack of PITA leveling these were meant to bring. I print PETG so overall speed isn't important. layer shifts have plagued me though even with new belts.
if you mean having to set the z-offset, yeah I'm afraid it's necessary. Nozzles are different lengths and unless you probe with the nozzle itself, you will always have to set a z-offset on ABL. Layer shifts sounds bad though.
Z offset for every measured point is what needs to me adjusted many people found. This should not be necessary but sadly is. Fine adjustment as such, but the auto level didn't do a decent job like on a cartesian would that only needs home offset sorting.
Oh that's not right! I haven't needed to do anything like that. Weird.
@@LostInTech3D good to hear, that's how it "should" be with the auto level.
@@matthewwain9958 Same here. I think i do have a tilted effektor witch messes up delta calibration in klipper.
2/3 of my printers have bmg clones from TL, I love them. You know you can just pull open the lever instead of messing with the tensioning knob right? :P
I do...although it doesnt work that well on these things, but yeah its when untangling all the TPU from inside you gotta open it up... :D
@@LostInTech3D Yeah, I saw that part too haha. I've only bought two rolls of TPU myself, which is some of the firmest TPU you can buy I believe, like 95A? (I actually wish I could buy some that were even stiffer)
So I suppose for my use, I've never had issues with TL's BMG's. They both have the hotends directly attached to the BMG too (V6 and volcano), so I imagine I would be able to print flexibles a lot easier because of that. I'd use two BMG's on my dual extruder machine as well, but.. money xD
7 min benchy = shipwreck :D
you are not wrong!
for some reason am unable to download the TPU profle for flsun SR. Can you please reupload. Thank you
I checked, it's working here. Try incognito mode, different browser, etc, let me know
@@LostInTech3D it's weird I have tried 3 different browsers with incognito tabs too. Maybe I am doing something wrong. Will try a different pc. Hopefully that will solve the issue. Thanks for the quick reply
if you hop on discord I can just send you it there
@@LostInTech3D just joined your discord. Thanks
I dont understand the fuzz around delta. It may look cool to someone but for proper printing you can use much better motion systems. Delta is good for pick and place robots. For cheap money you get cheap product. Though that is not even cheap but oh well.
mine is just perfect. i don't ever see myself returning to cartesian style printers.
I have a Delta printer 300 by 600, no need to level the bed ever.
pronterface is easier than octoprint for my flsun qqs to do esteps and the whatnot
I've never had a usb cable long enough...I know, a poor excuse :D
Love your vids man but you should add music to make it more interesting and to make those moments of silence welcome man :)
😂
@@LostInTech3D noooo! background noise distracts
Actually FLsun is illegally using the firmware on the SR, since they refuse to release the complete source code of the binaries they distribute. And they didn't release ANY source code of the newest version.
That's not unusual sadly. I'm vaguely aware of the new firmware since the review, but I haven't installed it due to the lack of source code. If I speak to them I'll ask what is going on, they released the 1.3 code, so I don't see why they can't do it now.
@@LostInTech3D There's still things missing from the 1.3 source code, too, so they're not compliant here either. And of course they will tell you that they will release everything and fix whatever is wrong, but they won't. Not unless enough people make enough of a fuss about it to hurt their sales. And I, for one, will actively recommend against FLsun printers until they release the full source code as they have to by international law.
In itself a good printer only a disaster to get a really good first layer over the entire bed. As a result, this printer has become unusable for me and it is only gathering dust.
Really?? Mine is solid across the bed as you can see in the thumbnail. I wonder why yours doesn't.
@@LostInTech3D I also have no idea what it is about. really tried everything. new bed, different delta calibrations, etc etc. it's not extremely bad but far from perfect and certainly a lot worse than other printers.
@@matheokoning4456 Sounds like something is loose in your setup.
First Again!!!
🎉
Get out of my head!