I successfully replaced both of my bathroom faucets thanks to this tutorial. It was really easy to follow. Thank you for saving me several hundred dollars by not having the plumber come out to do it!
Just installed two Delta faucet and drain assemblies in a double vanity. Could not get one of the drains to stop leaking around the rubber gasket below the sink no matter how much I tightened the nut. Ended up disassembling the drain assembly and putting teflon tape on the threads above and below the rubber gasket, then tightened the nut over the tape. That seemed to stop the leak. Perhaps advise people to tape those threads as well as the threads on the tailpipe to avoid having to take it all apart again if it leaks?
We just took ours apart to clean it and after putting it back together it has miniscule small leak so it does need Teflon tape or plumbers putty. Good to know! Thanks!
Hello Carol Scott. Thank you for the review! We are glad to hear that you had ease with your installation with this video. With any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us directly. -Carrie
Hello C Mathis, Thank you for the feed back! We constantly strive to provide the best possible products on the market and we will always stand behind them. Please let us know if you ever have questions or need assistance and we'd be happy to help. Best regards, Eric
My Delta 2-hole bathroom fixture has a plastic drain stopper assembly and one thing I noticed is that there is no internal plastic piece and rubber gasket to the control arm port. Is this by design and should I have to worry about leaking issues? Nice video, thank you!
Any ideas on what to do if the pivot rod is so long that it hits the wall? I had to resort to a hacksaw for the Delta Foundations bathroom faucet I just installed
The rim broke around the top flange of my sink drain. My sink does not have overflow but the top flange that I removed had holes around it like the one you installed. Is this the correct part to use with a sink with no overflow?
I have a plastic drain. At the 2:36 mark he mentions that there should be a rubber gasket and a plastic seat behind the pivot nut. This is BEFORE citing a difference between the plastic and metal drains. Am I missing the rubber gasket and plastic seat or are they not included in the plastic drains?
My lift rod is hitting the wall and not pushing the stopper down all the way. How can I adjust this so that it doesn't hit the wall? I have about an 1 1/2" of space between the base of the faucet and the wall.
I installed exactly per this video, but when I push the stopper up to open the drain, the stopper jiggles side to side in the flange. It’s like the stopper is too small for the drain diameter. When it is open, it falls slightly to one side, and it looks to the naked eye like it is broken. Am I missing something? Or is this just how it is?
I wanted to have the stopper just sitting on top of the pivot rod, but there's no chance that it would fit tight enough with just gravity to hold in water. So then I threaded the rod through the stopper and tried to adjust the lift rod for the tightest contact. Still no good. It seems that the stopper seal is just too big for the opening. Anyone else have this issue?
What happened to just being able to twist the plug, pull it out, clean out the drain, replace? I sure am going to try my plastic hair grabber before I have to tear the drain apart. My drain is only a year old.
At about 4:37 to 5:00 - Is it necessary for the flange and drain body to have a tight connection - you mention "bottom out" at 4:53? For removal later would it be okay to leave it just close but not tight, or will that cause leaks?
Hi, Perry. Thank you for your question. I am happy to help you. The flange for the drain assembly should have a tight connection to avoid leaks. -Rosanna
The faucet in our bathroom was professionally installed. Could not remove the stopper to clean it. The plumber put the pivot rod through the drain. Who knew? So, this senior had to squirm under the sink, eventually with pillows and towels to support my side and knees, after discovering I almost broke a rib leaning on the cabinet! And, we have drawers and one door, with a support in the middle, so the space to work in was very narrow. Lying in my side, and reaching up, into a very narrow space to undo the mechanism that actually works the drain, no easy task. And then, remove the drain from the pivot rod, put the whole thing back, again lying on my side, threading small rods through small holes, in the dark, virtually. And, all of this because the plumber thought it was a good idea to attach the drain stopper to the pivot rod. So, all you plumbers out there. Gross stuff grows on the end of the drain, and people will want to remove it, often, to scrub it clean. Please do not attach it to the pivot rod. There is no earthly reason to do so, and a very good one not to.
Hello Customer, Thank you for your question! We recommend using silicone instead as the plumber's putty can ruin the finish. With any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us directly. Best Regards, Carrie
Agree that it all looks and feels super cheap. And why is there an extra rubber gasket they then tell you to throw away? And why are the tolerances so bad that you need to seal the whole thing up with silicone? And why is no one mentioning that the pop up stopper is held in place by only the pull of gravity on the feather weight plug? I have to give this one a frowny face
If the bottom of the sink is uneven, the rubber seal isn't enough to stop leaking. If you pour water directly down the sink, no leaks. It goes down the pipe. But sinks aren't used like that, and the holes in the top part for overflow will cause leaking. I think if the top part had a double wall construction allowing holes for overflow, but a solid outer wall would be a better design IMO. The currect design causes people lots of headaches. Please redesign the top part. It's not good.
The cheap plastic drain provided with my new 50$ Delta bathroom faucet does not have enough thread depth to complete the installation as instructed by this video or the paper instructions. I guess I am expected to buy the good metal drain separately. I'm not impressed with Delta so far.
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I successfully replaced both of my bathroom faucets thanks to this tutorial. It was really easy to follow. Thank you for saving me several hundred dollars by not having the plumber come out to do it!
Just installed two Delta faucet and drain assemblies in a double vanity. Could not get one of the drains to stop leaking around the rubber gasket below the sink no matter how much I tightened the nut. Ended up disassembling the drain assembly and putting teflon tape on the threads above and below the rubber gasket, then tightened the nut over the tape. That seemed to stop the leak. Perhaps advise people to tape those threads as well as the threads on the tailpipe to avoid having to take it all apart again if it leaks?
Plumbers putty around the gasket is the key to preventing this leak.
We just took ours apart to clean it and after putting it back together it has miniscule small leak so it does need Teflon tape or plumbers putty. Good to know! Thanks!
Thanks, Two reasons I choose Delta faucets are because of the helpful DYI videos and the lifetime warranty.
This video allowed me to remove the drain from the pivot rod and replace the whole mechanism. Thanks.
Isn't plumber's putty a better option to seat the drain to the sink. Silicone would make it quite difficult to remove for service or replacement.
I had a clogged drain and needed to disassemble to a degree so I could use my drain snake. Thank you for the help!
Great tip on the pivot rod going 90
Installing my first drain assembly watched video thru each step thank you for your help
Hello Carol Scott. Thank you for the review! We are glad to hear that you had ease with your installation with this video. With any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us directly. -Carrie
Hello C Mathis,
Thank you for the feed back! We constantly strive to provide the best possible products on the market and we will always stand behind them. Please let us know if you ever have questions or need assistance and we'd be happy to help.
Best regards,
Eric
My Delta 2-hole bathroom fixture has a plastic drain stopper assembly and one thing I noticed is that there is no internal plastic piece and rubber gasket to the control arm port. Is this by design and should I have to worry about leaking issues? Nice video, thank you!
Any ideas on what to do if the pivot rod is so long that it hits the wall? I had to resort to a hacksaw for the Delta Foundations bathroom faucet I just installed
Was that white or clear silicone you used? Also, was that GE or another brand?
Good info.Too bad you didn't show installation of the rubber gasket and plastic seat.
The rim broke around the top flange of my sink drain. My sink does not have overflow but the top flange that I removed had holes around it like the one you installed. Is this the correct part to use with a sink with no overflow?
Mine does not have the plastic seat for the pivot rod! Where can I get this piece?!?
Good vid. Thank you.
I have a plastic drain. At the 2:36 mark he mentions that there should be a rubber gasket and a plastic seat behind the pivot nut. This is BEFORE citing a difference between the plastic and metal drains.
Am I missing the rubber gasket and plastic seat or are they not included in the plastic drains?
My lift rod is hitting the wall and not pushing the stopper down all the way. How can I adjust this so that it doesn't hit the wall? I have about an 1 1/2" of space between the base of the faucet and the wall.
I installed exactly per this video, but when I push the stopper up to open the drain, the stopper jiggles side to side in the flange. It’s like the stopper is too small for the drain diameter. When it is open, it falls slightly to one side, and it looks to the naked eye like it is broken. Am I missing something? Or is this just how it is?
What silicon putty is he using? I am a novice to these kinds of stuff. That's why I am asking. Thank you in advance.
I used plumber's putty and not the silicone caulk that he suggests using. The consensus is that plumber's putty is better and lasts longer.
I wanted to have the stopper just sitting on top of the pivot rod, but there's no chance that it would fit tight enough with just gravity to hold in water. So then I threaded the rod through the stopper and tried to adjust the lift rod for the tightest contact. Still no good. It seems that the stopper seal is just too big for the opening. Anyone else have this issue?
What happened to just being able to twist the plug, pull it out, clean out the drain, replace?
I sure am going to try my plastic hair grabber before I have to tear the drain apart. My drain is only a year old.
At about 4:37 to 5:00 - Is it necessary for the flange and drain body to have a tight connection - you mention "bottom out" at 4:53? For removal later would it be okay to leave it just close but not tight, or will that cause leaks?
Hi, Perry. Thank you for your question. I am happy to help you. The flange for the drain assembly should have a tight connection to avoid leaks. -Rosanna
The faucet in our bathroom was professionally installed. Could not remove the stopper to clean it. The plumber put the pivot rod through the drain. Who knew? So, this senior had to squirm under the sink, eventually with pillows and towels to support my side and knees, after discovering I almost broke a rib leaning on the cabinet! And, we have drawers and one door, with a support in the middle, so the space to work in was very narrow. Lying in my side, and reaching up, into a very narrow space to undo the mechanism that actually works the drain, no easy task. And then, remove the drain from the pivot rod, put the whole thing back, again lying on my side, threading small rods through small holes, in the dark, virtually. And, all of this because the plumber thought it was a good idea to attach the drain stopper to the pivot rod. So, all you plumbers out there. Gross stuff grows on the end of the drain, and people will want to remove it, often, to scrub it clean. Please do not attach it to the pivot rod. There is no earthly reason to do so, and a very good one not to.
Why don't you use plumber's putty?
Hello Customer, Thank you for your question! We recommend using silicone instead as the plumber's putty can ruin the finish. With any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to reach out to us directly.
Best Regards,
Carrie
Why you completely skipped attaching the drain pipe to the white wall pipe is beyond me... that step is needed...
Agree that it all looks and feels super cheap. And why is there an extra rubber gasket they then tell you to throw away? And why are the tolerances so bad that you need to seal the whole thing up with silicone? And why is no one mentioning that the pop up stopper is held in place by only the pull of gravity on the feather weight plug? I have to give this one a frowny face
What type silicon?
This is installation of a pop-up drain with a lever rod, exactly what you say you are NOT demostrating at the start of the video!
If the bottom of the sink is uneven, the rubber seal isn't enough to stop leaking. If you pour water directly down the sink, no leaks. It goes down the pipe. But sinks aren't used like that, and the holes in the top part for overflow will cause leaking. I think if the top part had a double wall construction allowing holes for overflow, but a solid outer wall would be a better design IMO. The currect design causes people lots of headaches. Please redesign the top part. It's not good.
Easy pizy! The water is GONE
The cheap plastic drain provided with my new 50$ Delta bathroom faucet does not have enough thread depth to complete the installation as instructed by this video or the paper instructions. I guess I am expected to buy the good metal drain separately. I'm not impressed with Delta so far.
I have 6 bathrooms. Only one has Delta and only one has broken fixtures. I will not use Delta again. Pure crap