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You guys didnt show HOW to do anything, you just showed the end result of each step. The close up of the brake adjuster was helpful though cuz thats the part im stuck on. So thank you, none of the other videos showed that.
Better explanation than anyone. I replaced on this car recently I was new to that never touched drums and I realized during the job I could have done what he did in the video and save time. You can remove and build the shoe set out of the car. Super convenient
Dude! that drum looked like it was from a focus that was stored on the titanic under sea for decades! whoa! as someone who lives where there is no salt on the roads, the sight of that was shocking.. our rears are almost free of any rust
My emergency brake is inoperable. And I don't have time to change the cables. Can you make the adjustment on the Wheel before I put the hub back on? Adjust the adjuster without using the emergency brake technique.
Yes. Pumping the foot pedal a few times gives the same result as pulling up the parking/emergency/hand brake (whatever you call it in your part of the planet). You don't actually need the emergency brake cable attached for the rear brakes to work when driving. You obviously do need it attached to pass inspection.
@JazzFunkNobby1964 LOL what do you mean my part of the planet? And they don't check the emergency brake when the car gets inspected. What part of the planet you from? But thank you for the info this thing won't be fixed until the beginning of next month I'm having a Mobile Mechanic come over to get those damn spindle shaft nuts off. I tried everything. And I'm getting too old for this. My body feels like I ran a 2 mile marathon the next day from laying on the ground for 2 hours trying to get those nuts off.
What I mean is that you call it an emergency brake. I call it a hand brake. Other people call it a parking brake. Depends which part of the planet you're from what you call it. You know there's a different method to the one you did. Remove the four bolts from around the back of the drum/hub and the whole lot falls off. Easy. You don't even have to touch what you call the spindle shaft nuts. Go have a look for those four bolts and maybe save yourself some cash. Be lucky.@@BugzKiller
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 on my 2006 Ford Focus the drum comes off separately. The Hub does not come off unless you disconnect the control arm back there bushings shock absorber all of that stuff. I know what you're talkin about because I saw at the store that they sell the hub assembly but it does not apply to my car. The drum comes off with the bearing in it and then because I drove the car for 6 miles with the tire wobbling like crazy and smoking because the bearing went it ruined the spindle, half of the threads are gone. I had to drill off the big lock nut that goes on the spindle with the drum.
I’m really sorry I can’t remember not doing that. Normally I’m pretty good at that type of stuff. Any chance you could take a look screenshot the image of a completely together maybe that will help you or you could possibly go take a look at the other side if you haven’t disassembled it yet
Oh that’s no big deal you just need to adjust the little star wheel down at the bottom to make the drum go over the pads. Then you adjust the Star wheel once you put the drum on in till it just starts to hang up. Then you’re good to go sorry I couldn’t answer earlier
Very well done! Best video for visibility due to great lighting. I would have liked to see you pop back in the shoes with all the springs on. I will try this trick tomorrow. Thank you.
One day when I grow up, I want to be just like you guys! I'm doing the brakes on my focus in my buddy's drive way. You guys are a tremendous help, thanks!
You didn't mention the rivets that hold the backing plate on, you can drill them out or chisel them off. What about when fitting the backing plate back on, did you rivet it back or just sandwich it between the hub and arm,? The rivets are only there to keep it in place for ease rather than for strength.
Just did my 2003 Ford Focus rear passenger-side. Do NOT use the method in the video NEVER EVER NEVER take the drum off.... removing the entire assembly is super easy: You do not even need to remove the hub nut.: Remove tire. Using a 13 mm socket with an extender, remove 4 bolts that secure the spindle and drum assembly. Those bolts are BEHIND the backing plate, right in front of the big suspension spring. The spindle, hub nut, and drum slide off really easy as a complete unit (!). Replace brake shoes, re-bolt the spindle-hub assembly, , To adjust brakes, back up a little and apply the brakes, do that a couple times. Do it again a couple times going forward. BTW, do bearing replacement the same way only buy a new spindle, hub assembly, and hub-nut at the same time, it is cheaper that way.
How much did the repair cost you the spindle nut that goes over the dust cover It was 23 dollars for one piece, pretty much same for wheel cylinder and anything else
My wheel cylinder bolts were 9mm. Brake line was 11mm of course the bleeder is 10mm. You know Ford will use weird size for certain things...like sensor or electronics will be 7mm instead of typical 8mm sizes. I'm watching this due to a drum seems to get hot after repair. YES...a test drive then stop to feel em for temp. The drum installed a bit tight on new shoes but would still turn with effort. Yanking the emerg brake while driving hoping to wear pads just a bit didn't work, so it's back to taking it apart to look at the adjuster mech and see if it is the prob.
He’s referring to adjusting the emergency brake cable which is unnecessary. If not disturbed or moved. It is probably something that I should’ve put in the video but didn’t think about it when I made this video. Because if you don’t do nothing with it you don’t have to do anything with it….
I was hoping to see how to put the pads back together when I took it apart it was all seized and broke apart so I didn't get to see it together just apart
It’s hard enough to get people to watch the videos that’s why most makers or creators don’t show them things because most people that took them apart remember how to put them back together Is there a possibility that you look at the other side?
It’s hard enough to get people to watch the videos that’s why most makers or creators don’t show them things because most people that took them apart remember how to put them back together Is it a possibility that you look at the other side?
Do you know where you found that wheel puller kit? I got one from harbor freight for the job but the yoke was too small to fit around the bolts and now I gotta find the right size
its the damn bearing... the inner race side has a rubber seal but the outer race side just has a metal grease sheild and it leaks out grease over time... when these make noise, its that outer bearing for sure thats run dry... when or if u replaced the bearing itself, you will see its huge and wide ..the inner view shows 2 races contained in that wide outer casing... the inside race is sealed, the outer isnt and fails...
At the beginning of the vid you were explaining alot of what was going on, near the end you skipped over all the installation of components. If all that was in there vid would be awesome.
It was actually two different tools one was the adapter plate for a slide hammer. The other part was a bolt that threaded into where the slide hammer arm would thread into. So you can go to the local parts store and you can rent a slide hammer and then go to the hardware store and get a bolt that is about 5 to 6 inches long and use that just like I did in the video. I used the Lugnuts to hold the tool to the hub
Hey can I please get some help asap I have done everything and I have replaced the brakes on the rear driver side and now I'm trying to get the new drum hub over the new brakes I thought it would slide back into place and nothing is going right what in the world did I do wrong please help asap
I want a "gnarled wheel" when I grow up. I guess I'll have to settle for a knurled stop until then ;-) This is the first one of this design I've done. Bottom line: It blows. The old washer and spring combo was better for reassembly and what is required to get the shoes close enough together to reinstall the hub is not apparent on this design. I was also surprised at the small amount of brake material on the trailing shoe of a new set. (Having done work like this for 54 years probably makes me prejudiced against certain designs...or I'm just old.) Good video though. I might say; "Gnarly".
You manually turn the snail cam which is part of the auto adjuster to it's lowest point. This sets the two shoes as close to each other as is possible enabling the drum to slide back on with ease. When everything is reassembled and brake system bled (if necessary) pumping the brake pedal a few times will make the auto adjust mechanism set that snail cam to the correct position.
Not a good idea to clamp old rubber brake lines for the obvious reasons. Instead of spending time pulling backing plate much easier to heat brake cylinder hold down bolts and tap head with hammer 9 times out of 10 will come loose and if they do snap off just buy a couple bolts at parts store when buying your brake parts. Same with brake line just heat the connection.
⭐⭐⭐⭐If you liked the video and want to show your support, you can use any of these links to purchase ANY ITEM you normally would off of Amazon and we get a small commission with no extra cost to you! Make sure to complete orders through the links! Thank You!
DEWALT 20V Max Impact Driver Kit, 1/4-in: amzn.to/3y0vDRJ
5 Pieces Magnetic Telescoping Pick-up Tool Kit: amzn.to/3knxckI
Magnetic Screwdrivers Set with Case, Amartisan 42-piece: amzn.to/39sTSxT
CRAFTSMAN Mechanics Tools Kit with 3 Drawer Box, 216-Piece: amzn.to/3Nux6UL
ATPEAM 16pcs Slide Hammer Dent Puller Set: amzn.to/3wLvBvR
You guys didnt show HOW to do anything, you just showed the end result of each step. The close up of the brake adjuster was helpful though cuz thats the part im stuck on. So thank you, none of the other videos showed that.
Better explanation than anyone. I replaced on this car recently I was new to that never touched drums and I realized during the job I could have done what he did in the video and save time. You can remove and build the shoe set out of the car. Super convenient
Dude! that drum looked like it was from a focus that was stored on the titanic under sea for decades! whoa!
as someone who lives where there is no salt on the roads, the sight of that was shocking.. our rears are almost free of any rust
My emergency brake is inoperable. And I don't have time to change the cables. Can you make the adjustment on the Wheel before I put the hub back on? Adjust the adjuster without using the emergency brake technique.
Yes. Pumping the foot pedal a few times gives the same result as pulling up the parking/emergency/hand brake (whatever you call it in your part of the planet).
You don't actually need the emergency brake cable attached for the rear brakes to work when driving.
You obviously do need it attached to pass inspection.
@JazzFunkNobby1964 LOL what do you mean my part of the planet? And they don't check the emergency brake when the car gets inspected. What part of the planet you from? But thank you for the info this thing won't be fixed until the beginning of next month I'm having a Mobile Mechanic come over to get those damn spindle shaft nuts off. I tried everything. And I'm getting too old for this. My body feels like I ran a 2 mile marathon the next day from laying on the ground for 2 hours trying to get those nuts off.
What I mean is that you call it an emergency brake. I call it a hand brake. Other people call it a parking brake.
Depends which part of the planet you're from what you call it.
You know there's a different method to the one you did. Remove the four bolts from around the back of the drum/hub and the whole lot falls off. Easy.
You don't even have to touch what you call the spindle shaft nuts.
Go have a look for those four bolts and maybe save yourself some cash.
Be lucky.@@BugzKiller
@@JazzFunkNobby1964 on my 2006 Ford Focus the drum comes off separately. The Hub does not come off unless you disconnect the control arm back there bushings shock absorber all of that stuff. I know what you're talkin about because I saw at the store that they sell the hub assembly but it does not apply to my car. The drum comes off with the bearing in it and then because I drove the car for 6 miles with the tire wobbling like crazy and smoking because the bearing went it ruined the spindle, half of the threads are gone. I had to drill off the big lock nut that goes on the spindle with the drum.
Greeting from Guatemala. Friend you didn't show how you put springs back.???
I’m really sorry I can’t remember not doing that. Normally I’m pretty good at that type of stuff. Any chance you could take a look screenshot the image of a completely together maybe that will help you or you could possibly go take a look at the other side if you haven’t disassembled it yet
I did the shoes but can't get the drum to go back on. Was hoping to see your trick to do that but you quit before putting the drum back on.
Oh that’s no big deal you just need to adjust the little star wheel down at the bottom to make the drum go over the pads. Then you adjust the Star wheel once you put the drum on in till it just starts to hang up. Then you’re good to go sorry I couldn’t answer earlier
@@sharpcarco Laid on my back, took all the adjustments out, drum on, done!
Awesome!!!
Wrong answer. You are talking about different brake setup to the one in this video which has auto adjusters, @@sharpcarco
slide hammer hack was perfect thanks for that.
Very well done! Best video for visibility due to great lighting. I would have liked to see you pop back in the shoes with all the springs on. I will try this trick tomorrow. Thank you.
You skipped the best most important parts, like how to get the clips on the shoes to hold them to the back plate.
And getting the springs on
One day when I grow up, I want to be just like you guys! I'm doing the brakes on my focus in my buddy's drive way. You guys are a tremendous help, thanks!
Well...... no ..... you don’t.... lol Thank you for the kind words though
Ty for the tips ....from west Olive Michigan
Hello neighbor!! You’re very welcome !!!
Hey thanks helped me get the brakes done! From Warren Michigan, lol
You didn't mention the rivets that hold the backing plate on, you can drill them out or chisel them off. What about when fitting the backing plate back on, did you rivet it back or just sandwich it between the hub and arm,? The rivets are only there to keep it in place for ease rather than for strength.
I don’t remember, but I probably didn’t change the backing plates unless they were super Rusty
abs ring ?
Just did my 2003 Ford Focus rear passenger-side. Do NOT use the method in the video NEVER EVER NEVER take the drum off.... removing the entire assembly is super easy: You do not even need to remove the hub nut.: Remove tire. Using a 13 mm socket with an extender, remove 4 bolts that secure the spindle and drum assembly. Those bolts are BEHIND the backing plate, right in front of the big suspension spring. The spindle, hub nut, and drum slide off really easy as a complete unit (!). Replace brake shoes, re-bolt the spindle-hub assembly, , To adjust brakes, back up a little and apply the brakes, do that a couple times. Do it again a couple times going forward. BTW, do bearing replacement the same way only buy a new spindle, hub assembly, and hub-nut at the same time, it is cheaper that way.
How much did the repair cost you the spindle nut that goes over the dust cover It was 23 dollars for one piece, pretty much same for wheel cylinder and anything else
My wheel cylinder bolts were 9mm. Brake line was 11mm of course the bleeder is 10mm. You know Ford will use weird size for certain things...like sensor or electronics will be 7mm instead of typical 8mm sizes. I'm watching this due to a drum seems to get hot after repair. YES...a test drive then stop to feel em for temp. The drum installed a bit tight on new shoes but would still turn with effort. Yanking the emerg brake while driving hoping to wear pads just a bit didn't work, so it's back to taking it apart to look at the adjuster mech and see if it is the prob.
not a single person question emergency brake lever angle ?? how can you get good adjustment (affects pedal height) with ebrake applied ??
What do you mean?
He’s referring to adjusting the emergency brake cable which is unnecessary. If not disturbed or moved.
It is probably something that I should’ve put in the video but didn’t think about it when I made this video.
Because if you don’t do nothing with it you don’t have to do anything with it….
@@sharpcarco Oh awesome thanks. You guys do awesome videos and work.
Wrong. If you fit new shoes you need to adjust the emergency brake cable.
You adjust it at the lever end of the cable inside the vehicle.@@sharpcarco
I was hoping to see how to put the pads back together when I took it apart it was all seized and broke apart so I didn't get to see it together just apart
It’s hard enough to get people to watch the videos that’s why most makers or creators don’t show them things because most people that took them apart remember how to put them back together
Is there a possibility that you look at the other side?
It’s hard enough to get people to watch the videos that’s why most makers or creators don’t show them things because most people that took them apart remember how to put them back together
Is it a possibility that you look at the other side?
I got it done. It was a bitch, but I got it
As I knew you would !!!! Great job 👏 don’t feel good about yourself….
You illustrating that the hook of the shoe must go into the adjuster is one the other videos I watched failed to show. That you!
Do you know where you found that wheel puller kit? I got one from harbor freight for the job but the yoke was too small to fit around the bolts and now I gotta find the right size
I wonder how long these drum brakes are supposed to last... replaced mine less than 25k miles ago an now they are screeching 🤦♂️
My focus has 200,000 miles and I have never changed the drum brakes
its the damn bearing... the inner race side has a rubber seal but the outer race side just has a metal grease sheild and it leaks out grease over time... when these make noise, its that outer bearing for sure thats run dry... when or if u replaced the bearing itself, you will see its huge and wide ..the inner view shows 2 races contained in that wide outer casing... the inside race is sealed, the outer isnt and fails...
At the beginning of the vid you were explaining alot of what was going on, near the end you skipped over all the installation of components. If all that was in there vid would be awesome.
What is the name of the tool you used to pull the drum
No I don’t have time to go back and watch the whole video can you give me a time when I was using it
@@sharpcarco 1:50
It was actually two different tools one was the adapter plate for a slide hammer. The other part was a bolt that threaded into where the slide hammer arm would thread into. So you can go to the local parts store and you can rent a slide hammer and then go to the hardware store and get a bolt that is about 5 to 6 inches long and use that just like I did in the video.
I used the Lugnuts to hold the tool to the hub
@@sharpcarco thanks allot
The Transit connect Is the same right?
Sorry I don’t know but most drum set ups are the same so the likelihood is very high
Hey can I please get some help asap I have done everything and I have replaced the brakes on the rear driver side and now I'm trying to get the new drum hub over the new brakes I thought it would slide back into place and nothing is going right what in the world did I do wrong please help asap
Make sure the adjuster rod is on correctly. You also might need to use a rubber mallet to tap it into place. That’s what I had to do.
I wanted to see him put the line back on.
Yeah eh naaa ill do anything else on my aunts car fully rebuild front end no problem. Drum breaks not worth the headache lol 😂
Brakes
Love your video 😂 especially that baby mama drama had me dead 💀
😂
I want a "gnarled wheel" when I grow up. I guess I'll have to settle for a knurled stop until then ;-)
This is the first one of this design I've done.
Bottom line: It blows.
The old washer and spring combo was better for reassembly and what is required to get the shoes close enough together to reinstall the hub is not apparent on this design.
I was also surprised at the small amount of brake material on the trailing shoe of a new set.
(Having done work like this for 54 years probably makes me prejudiced against certain designs...or I'm just old.)
Good video though.
I might say; "Gnarly".
You manually turn the snail cam which is part of the auto adjuster to it's lowest point. This sets the two shoes as close to each other as is possible enabling the drum to slide back on with ease. When everything is reassembled and brake system bled (if necessary) pumping the brake pedal a few times will make the auto adjust mechanism set that snail cam to the correct position.
Where’s the 2nd part
O carro sabe nadar?
Jajaja pienso si
No it was not helpful.. I was hoping to see how to remove the springs on the brake shoes
Just cut em.
A chipmunk added some commentary
Not a good idea to clamp old rubber brake lines for the obvious reasons. Instead of spending time pulling backing plate much easier to heat brake cylinder hold down bolts and tap head with hammer 9 times out of 10 will come loose and if they do snap off just buy a couple bolts at parts store when buying your brake parts. Same with brake line just heat the connection.
They are non adjustable drum brakes you should know that. Do your homework
Thank you for the close up video.Greg Smith from Moores NY send me a friend's request Facebook
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