Hi… I’m the creator of that diffuser.. My channel is under my dog’s name. Thanks for linking to my web site where I also have about 100 tutorials on lighting and photography techniques. As mentioned on my web site the direction of the light is actually more important than the diffusion, something I learned as an apprentice and assistant to Monte Zucker back in the 1970s. At the time he was one of the most successful wedding photographers and teachers who at the time used natural window light for formal portraits and introduced the technique of using dual flash for shooting reception photos back in the 1960s using the first Graflex portable flashes with a simple photocell trigger on the slave. With a dual flash configuration you want to use the flash on the camera as the shadow fill, raising it up on a bracket so the flash head or center of diffuser is 12-18” above the lens so the unfilled dark and distracting nose and chin shadows that fall straight down out of sight and the light creates a symmetrical looking “butterfly” pattern on the face when used by itself. We used a second identical power flash on a rolling stand which was actually a medical IV stand. Positioning the light so it is 45° to the side of the nose of the subject and about 45° higher than the eye line will make it cast the nose shadow down over half the nose which creates a very flattering 3D rendering of a face or any object on the 2D reproduction. When using identical manual flash we would set the off camera flash ‘1 stop’ closer to the subject based on the camera subject distance, a very clever technique Monte created using f-stop numbers for the distances: 16/11, 11/8, 8/5.6 closing down the aperture one stop with each decreasing distance. One of the reasons I created my web site back in 2004 was to explain how to use the then new Canon E-TTL system with Master / Slave dual flash. I created the diffuser a bit earlier than that when still using my Vivitar flashes. They can be made out of anything reflective. In a pinch I’ve created them out of several sheets of bond paper stapled together for rigidity and attached with a rubber band. On my web site at the link in your description you can find a comparison of portraits taken with dual flash and the diffusers vs my studio lights. If you use dual flash as I suggest with the fill for shadows centered and raised any very dark unfilled shadows are eliminated. The lighter the shadows the “softer” the light looks. That’s why if only using a single flash you want to raise the flash on a bracket to hide any unfilled shadows or use the spill out of the diffuser off of the ceiling and walls indoor to create non-directional fill. The larger source the diffuser creates produces larger, more eye pleasing catchlights in the eyes and softer looking specular highlights on skin.
Thanks Chuck. I went to the linked article since the pdf template didn't work for me, and checked out TeddyC's channel. Lots of interesting things for a newbie like me!
Question about the black backing sheet - would a silver backing sheet reflect rather than absorb light so you get more out of your speedlight? Great video BTW
This diffuser works great. I ended up using Velcro squares from Hobby Lobby to adhere everything. They seem to be sticking well and I have a whole pack of spares if they come off.
If you wait to cut the slits until after you stick everything together you won't have to worry about the slits not lining up. Makes things easier. And, if you're concerned about the staples, you could cut two vertical slits the same length as the width of the Velcro strap and just thread the strap through those slits.
Great video. Here are some tips to make the assembly even easier: I built my large diffuser by first making the three part composite using the 9X12 size of the foam piece. I only needed one copy of the template, which I placed over the rectangular 9X12 composite, and made the cuts with scissors. Another modification: instead of the black foam on top, I used black felt (also from the crafts store, 9X12). The felt does not have an adhesive backing, so I used spray adhesive for that. Why felt? Because it is essentially the same as the "soft" side of the Velcro strips! This way, to attach the Velcro loop that goes around the speed light head, I just placed it hard side down on the felt, it sticks very well. No need to staple it. At the other end, I put the hard Velcro strips on the flap, and they stick to the felt very nicely when I fold the flap, as in the instructions.
First, great video!!! I have made numerous diffusers and I have one suggestion. Make this really simple, purchase a sun screen for your car windshield that is white on one side and silver on the other. Use these templates with that as the material. No need for anything else but the Velcro. You will not need to make numerous copies and glue them . Just use the windshield sunscreen and add the Velcro. You may want to add extra Velcro so that you can use both sides (make it reversible silver and white). That's it - with this material you can roll it up in a ball, let it flatten out and if will be the shape you want once again. Killer great diffuser. Since i had that material it took less than 10 minutes make.
Just wondered why you don't have a diffused cover over the open side of the diffuser? Would this not make the light even softer for macro turning it into a small softbox.? Just curious. You also mentioned that it was tricky to line up the two sticky sides of the foam to the template shape. I was also wondering why not just use oversized pieces of foam and mesh to make a square shape, then place the template over the top of that and cut the diffuser out from the square of material. You will be wasting the same amount of material and would be guaranteed a better finished and straighter edge.
My thoughts exactly, and I actually built my large diffuser this way using the large template. I made the three-layer composite using the 9X12 size of the foam piece. I only needed one copy of the template, and made the cuts with scissors. Another modification: instead of the black foam on top, I used black felt (also from the crafts store). The felt does not have an adhesive backing, so I used spray adhesive for that. Why felt? Because it is essentially the same as the "soft" side of the Velcro strips! This way, to attach the Velcro loop that goes around the speed light head, I just placed it hard side down on the felt, it sticks very well. No need to staple it. At the other end, I put the hard Velcro strips on the flap, and they stick to the felt very nicely when I fold the flap, as in the instructions.
First of all, thanks for your video! I came up with a dramatically easier design that might be as good. Instead of using three layers of materials, canvas, black and white foam, you can just use one, plus some tape to make it reflective and light-tight. Starting with your template, I used a mylar sheet of the type used as stencil. In my case was however a cannibalized plastic folder. A clear plastic place-mat is also good. This material is quite rigid, so instead of curves, you may have to resort to sharp angles to achieve the final form. This is done by making a cut with a knife, not too deep, and carefully bending the sheet trying not to break it. You could lose some material before you gat it right. To fix the overlapping parts you have to use stables, so in the end you cannot store it flat. The whole thing is however quite robust, you can just put your flash in the diffuser and then both in the camera bag. The material is translucent, so how to make it reflective and light-tight? For that I used aluminum adhesive tape, easily available. After some tests I attached it to the external side. The light bounces through the translucent plastic to the aluminum foil, and no light is lost. The reflected light is diffuse enough, instead of the harsh reflection you would get with the aluminum tape inside. If you don't like the metallic shine outside, you could use perfectly white tape, but then you probably have to cover it again with black tape to make it light-tight. To attach the diffuser to the flash, the design is also more convenient. As the material is rigid, you don't need the two flaps to go all the way below the flash head. You just have to cover the top and the sides. On both sides, you cut a slit to insert the Velcro tape, with the soft part outside and exposed above the flash head. The slits are easy to make: punch two holes at the ends of the desired slit, and then cut to shape with nails scissors or similar thin scissors. The tape has to wrap tight over the small area exposed at the end of the flaps.
Great video! I want to try to make the larger diffuser, but when I tried to download the template I got an "ERR_SSL_VERSION" error. Can you just tell be the overall length and width (at the widest part)? I think I can copy your excellent work with that starting point.
Hi there this is fantastic. I have an Olympus em1 m1 mark2 and need to buy the smaller flash like you have here. I don’t have much money and wondered which one you are using or if you have any cheaper recommendations. Then I make this diffuser for it. Thankyou 😊
I made a few of these years ago and also used the same website you did. I used thicker foam for one side so I didn't need to use the plastic grid. This allowed me to stick the two pieces of foam together before cutting. That way I didn't have to fight aligning two pieces of foam together and had perfect edges.
The links for the templates are not working (ERR_SSL_VERSION_OR_CIPHER_MISMATCH). Can someone upload the templates who downloaded them when the links worked? Thanks.
Nice ! And thanks for the templates. It's a long time I'm searching a good macro diffusor on commercial sites... some are extremely complicated, quite big and expensive . And I'm convinced that yours is better. Unfortunately... we are in fall, and insects begin to be rare... anyway less interesting than in spring. That lets me somme time ! Have a nice day !
Thank you - love this template! I had a piece if 1/4 inch thick craft foam and it worked perfectly on its own - no need to laminate with plastic grid or second piece of foam.
I guess this is one of the best DIY flash diffuser for macro photography .... loved it and the way you demonstrated. Thanks for the ready to use template .!!!
great idea, have an issue with the larger template, when trying to print it offers 2 pages but each page is page 1 and 2 over laid with details obscured, a little craft work and can still be done but just to let you know its bugged somehow. Updated... the build was easy enough and works really well. Thanks for sharing 🤘🏼
Hi, I'm unable to open the links of the templates for the diffusers. Idk if you could update the links so that it is possible to download them . Please and thank you 🙌🏻
Thanks for the video, it was really helpful. I made the smaller version last week and have been using it on a Sony A7R3, 90mm Macro and HVL-F43 flash. Really impressed with the amount of light you can diffuse and the creative angles it gives you. For the money, I'd certainly suggest having a go at making one. Something to do on a rainy day 🙂
Thank you for this video! I want to make my own diffuser based on your template and I do have the Godox TT350O flash as well. Do both sizes fit on that flash or only the small one?
Hi, first of all thank you for sharing this video. This saves me a lot of money and making it myself is always more fun. I only have one question, what is the thickness of the craft foam? Thanks and I hope I get an answer from you.
I was about to order a diffuser internationally, since I couldn't find it here in Brazil...But that was genious! I will do it for sure! Thanks a lot! Only the plastic canvas is harder to find. I might use some another kind of plastic layer there
I love these type of diffusers when I have no option but to have the flash on the camera. The only thing I do differently is angle everything slightly off to one side, which I find is more pleasing than having the light straight above the camera, be it for macro or portraiture.
Good little project. To stop the staples scratching the flash, why not stick the black foam to the plastic canvas and then staple the velcro on. Now stick the white foam on. The staples will be completely covered without extra strips.
Niceness. This was brilliant. I typically affix my bounce modifiers to the narrow end of the flash when I'm using on camera flash, though. That way when I tilt my camera to Portrait Orientation (vertically) the flash and modifier stay above the lens and don't end up extremely low and to one side. With off camera flash, affixing it to the broad end of the flash like most people teach is fine. Great DIY vid. Enjoyed it :)
dimension may please be provided. I appreciate as you have completely explained thoroughly in very easy way one could understand very easily now I can make if do a favour if dimensions be shown Khalid mohiuddin Lahore Pakistan
The diffuser should be as close as possible to the subject. It will become or near to a spotlight source if too far like your one. And the flash is the father, the better in order to soften the light.
It is overcomplicated. Craft foam is stiff enough to support itself. To attach the diffuser to the flash you can use ordinary (black?) hair elastic that is found in all supermarkets (at least here in Norway). Simpler and better than Velcro.
Hi… I’m the creator of that diffuser.. My channel is under my dog’s name. Thanks for linking to my web site where I also have about 100 tutorials on lighting and photography techniques.
As mentioned on my web site the direction of the light is actually more important than the diffusion, something I learned as an apprentice and assistant to Monte Zucker back in the 1970s. At the time he was one of the most successful wedding photographers and teachers who at the time used natural window light for formal portraits and introduced the technique of using dual flash for shooting reception photos back in the 1960s using the first Graflex portable flashes with a simple photocell trigger on the slave.
With a dual flash configuration you want to use the flash on the camera as the shadow fill, raising it up on a bracket so the flash head or center of diffuser is 12-18” above the lens so the unfilled dark and distracting nose and chin shadows that fall straight down out of sight and the light creates a symmetrical looking “butterfly” pattern on the face when used by itself.
We used a second identical power flash on a rolling stand which was actually a medical IV stand. Positioning the light so it is 45° to the side of the nose of the subject and about 45° higher than the eye line will make it cast the nose shadow down over half the nose which creates a very flattering 3D rendering of a face or any object on the 2D reproduction. When using identical manual flash we would set the off camera flash ‘1 stop’ closer to the subject based on the camera subject distance, a very clever technique Monte created using f-stop numbers for the distances: 16/11, 11/8, 8/5.6 closing down the aperture one stop with each decreasing distance.
One of the reasons I created my web site back in 2004 was to explain how to use the then new Canon E-TTL system with Master / Slave dual flash. I created the diffuser a bit earlier than that when still using my Vivitar flashes. They can be made out of anything reflective. In a pinch I’ve created them out of several sheets of bond paper stapled together for rigidity and attached with a rubber band.
On my web site at the link in your description you can find a comparison of portraits taken with dual flash and the diffusers vs my studio lights. If you use dual flash as I suggest with the fill for shadows centered and raised any very dark unfilled shadows are eliminated.
The lighter the shadows the “softer” the light looks. That’s why if only using a single flash you want to raise the flash on a bracket to hide any unfilled shadows or use the spill out of the diffuser off of the ceiling and walls indoor to create non-directional fill. The larger source the diffuser creates produces larger, more eye pleasing catchlights in the eyes and softer looking specular highlights on skin.
So what's the url (address) of your website, sir?
Thanks Chuck. I went to the linked article since the pdf template didn't work for me, and checked out TeddyC's channel. Lots of interesting things for a newbie like me!
I can't download the template. Computer says the site is not secure. Can you provide a different link for download of the smaller size?
Question about the black backing sheet - would a silver backing sheet reflect rather than absorb light so you get more out of your speedlight? Great video BTW
This diffuser works great. I ended up using Velcro squares from Hobby Lobby to adhere everything. They seem to be sticking well and I have a whole pack of spares if they come off.
If you wait to cut the slits until after you stick everything together you won't have to worry about the slits not lining up. Makes things easier. And, if you're concerned about the staples, you could cut two vertical slits the same length as the width of the Velcro strap and just thread the strap through those slits.
This looks more durable than some of the diffusers that I’ve seen on amazon. Thank you for sharing!!
Yeayyyyyyyy 🎉
Finally found someone who knows how to do this right. THANK YOU!!!!!!
Great video. Here are some tips to make the assembly even easier: I built my large diffuser by first making the three part composite using the 9X12 size of the foam piece. I only needed one copy of the template, which I placed over the rectangular 9X12 composite, and made the cuts with scissors. Another modification: instead of the black foam on top, I used black felt (also from the crafts store, 9X12). The felt does not have an adhesive backing, so I used spray adhesive for that. Why felt? Because it is essentially the same as the "soft" side of the Velcro strips! This way, to attach the Velcro loop that goes around the speed light head, I just placed it hard side down on the felt, it sticks very well. No need to staple it. At the other end, I put the hard Velcro strips on the flap, and they stick to the felt very nicely when I fold the flap, as in the instructions.
First, great video!!!
I have made numerous diffusers and I have one suggestion. Make this really simple, purchase a sun screen for your car windshield that is white on one side and silver on the other. Use these templates with that as the material. No need for anything else but the Velcro. You will not need to make numerous copies and glue them . Just use the windshield sunscreen and add the Velcro. You may want to add extra Velcro so that you can use both sides (make it reversible silver and white). That's it - with this material you can roll it up in a ball, let it flatten out and if will be the shape you want once again. Killer great diffuser. Since i had that material it took less than 10 minutes make.
Template-Links dead?
Thanks a lot for your kind thought to share this publicly! :)
Thank you for sharing. Would you mind send a different link for the templates? This doesn't work. Thanks.
Love this design! However, I get a "Secure Connection Failed" error with Firefox and Edge when I try to download plans.
Just wondered why you don't have a diffused cover over the open side of the diffuser? Would this not make the light even softer for macro turning it into a small softbox.? Just curious. You also mentioned that it was tricky to line up the two sticky sides of the foam to the template shape. I was also wondering why not just use oversized pieces of foam and mesh to make a square shape, then place the template over the top of that and cut the diffuser out from the square of material. You will be wasting the same amount of material and would be guaranteed a better finished and straighter edge.
My thoughts exactly, and I actually built my large diffuser this way using the large template. I made the three-layer composite using the 9X12 size of the foam piece. I only needed one copy of the template, and made the cuts with scissors. Another modification: instead of the black foam on top, I used black felt (also from the crafts store). The felt does not have an adhesive backing, so I used spray adhesive for that. Why felt? Because it is essentially the same as the "soft" side of the Velcro strips! This way, to attach the Velcro loop that goes around the speed light head, I just placed it hard side down on the felt, it sticks very well. No need to staple it. At the other end, I put the hard Velcro strips on the flap, and they stick to the felt very nicely when I fold the flap, as in the instructions.
First of all, thanks for your video! I came up with a dramatically easier design that might be as good. Instead of using three layers of materials, canvas, black and white foam, you can just use one, plus some tape to make it reflective and light-tight.
Starting with your template, I used a mylar sheet of the type used as stencil. In my case was however a cannibalized plastic folder. A clear plastic place-mat is also good. This material is quite rigid, so instead of curves, you may have to resort to sharp angles to achieve the final form. This is done by making a cut with a knife, not too deep, and carefully bending the sheet trying not to break it. You could lose some material before you gat it right. To fix the overlapping parts you have to use stables, so in the end you cannot store it flat. The whole thing is however quite robust, you can just put your flash in the diffuser and then both in the camera bag.
The material is translucent, so how to make it reflective and light-tight? For that I used aluminum adhesive tape, easily available. After some tests I attached it to the external side. The light bounces through the translucent plastic to the aluminum foil, and no light is lost. The reflected light is diffuse enough, instead of the harsh reflection you would get with the aluminum tape inside. If you don't like the metallic shine outside, you could use perfectly white tape, but then you probably have to cover it again with black tape to make it light-tight.
To attach the diffuser to the flash, the design is also more convenient. As the material is rigid, you don't need the two flaps to go all the way below the flash head. You just have to cover the top and the sides. On both sides, you cut a slit to insert the Velcro tape, with the soft part outside and exposed above the flash head. The slits are easy to make: punch two holes at the ends of the desired slit, and then cut to shape with nails scissors or similar thin scissors. The tape has to wrap tight over the small area exposed at the end of the flaps.
Hi great video, here I cant find the plastic cavas, I will try with a plastic from a magnetic resonance. thank you
Very well produced video. Thank you. I will give this a try. Subscribed
Great video! I want to try to make the larger diffuser, but when I tried to download the template I got an "ERR_SSL_VERSION" error. Can you just tell be the overall length and width (at the widest part)? I think I can copy your excellent work with that starting point.
@Makify1 Just a little tip. Change the inner colour to white also. It saves toner.
I like this design, really portable, good looking, and easy to DIY, thanks dude.
Nice video thanks. For some reason I am not able to download the template to print . Is there any other format available?
Hi there this is fantastic. I have an Olympus em1 m1 mark2 and need to buy the smaller flash like you have here. I don’t have much money and wondered which one you are using or if you have any cheaper recommendations. Then I make this diffuser for it. Thankyou 😊
I made a few of these years ago and also used the same website you did. I used thicker foam for one side so I didn't need to use the plastic grid. This allowed me to stick the two pieces of foam together before cutting. That way I didn't have to fight aligning two pieces of foam together and had perfect edges.
The links for the templates are not working (ERR_SSL_VERSION_OR_CIPHER_MISMATCH). Can someone upload the templates who downloaded them when the links worked? Thanks.
I get the same error with 4 different browsers.
Thanks for that and providing templates... However, it's a big reflector not really a diffuser...
Great video , I've made one of these , not that yours is expensive to make but I made one for zilch , i made it out of a Cornflake box .
Nice ! And thanks for the templates. It's a long time I'm searching a good macro diffusor on commercial sites... some are extremely complicated, quite big and expensive . And I'm convinced that yours is better. Unfortunately... we are in fall, and insects begin to be rare... anyway less interesting than in spring. That lets me somme time ! Have a nice day !
can't get your template links to work. The super nova link is OK
Thank you - love this template! I had a piece if 1/4 inch thick craft foam and it worked perfectly on its own - no need to laminate with plastic grid or second piece of foam.
Muy bueno, gracias por las ideas. Voy a probar una versión para mi flash.
I guess this is one of the best DIY flash diffuser for macro photography .... loved it and the way you demonstrated. Thanks for the ready to use template .!!!
great idea, have an issue with the larger template, when trying to print it offers 2 pages but each page is page 1 and 2 over laid with details obscured, a little craft work and can still be done but just to let you know its bugged somehow.
Updated... the build was easy enough and works really well.
Thanks for sharing 🤘🏼
Same issue here.....
Hi, I'm unable to open the links of the templates for the diffusers. Idk if you could update the links so that it is possible to download them . Please and thank you 🙌🏻
Thanks for the video, it was really helpful. I made the smaller version last week and have been using it on a Sony A7R3, 90mm Macro and HVL-F43 flash. Really impressed with the amount of light you can diffuse and the creative angles it gives you.
For the money, I'd certainly suggest having a go at making one. Something to do on a rainy day 🙂
Hello, excuse my poor english, why do you use platic canevas inside ? What is the interest ? Thanks
It adds support and makes the diffuser more rigid.
@@Makify1 ok thanks for sharing this. I m actually looking for canevas in plsatic and I will build it.
Thank you for this video! I want to make my own diffuser based on your template and I do have the Godox TT350O flash as well. Do both sizes fit on that flash or only the small one?
no links?
I was going to get the patern but the link doest work ty.
Hi, first of all thank you for sharing this video.
This saves me a lot of money and making it myself is always more fun.
I only have one question, what is the thickness of the craft foam?
Thanks and I hope I get an answer from you.
Wooow!! This is the best DIY diffuser I've seen..thank you for sharing..🥂
Good job bro! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent. Thank you.
Hello. Your links are dead. I need the bigger one please 😊
Thanks for the careful documentation of this project! Makes it easy to adapt to one's own needs :-)
I was about to order a diffuser internationally, since I couldn't find it here in Brazil...But that was genious! I will do it for sure! Thanks a lot!
Only the plastic canvas is harder to find. I might use some another kind of plastic layer there
I love these type of diffusers when I have no option but to have the flash on the camera. The only thing I do differently is angle everything slightly off to one side, which I find is more pleasing than having the light straight above the camera, be it for macro or portraiture.
Great tutorial, you just saved me a lot of bucks.Thank you very much!
Cool idea, thanks for sharing!
Good little project. To stop the staples scratching the flash, why not stick the black foam to the plastic canvas and then staple the velcro on. Now stick the white foam on. The staples will be completely covered without extra strips.
Thanks for sharing! Best part at 8:35.😄
Nice tutorial and design..... thanks for sharing
Awesome! Thanks for sharing
Genius!! Thank You
Thank you so much!! GOD Bless! This is very helpful!💛
super ! merci beaucoup !
This is Amazing! Thanks for sharing your ideas with us 😀
Gracias, ya hice el mio😊
Nice DYI!!!
Lien not found
Deine Webseite funktioniert leider nicht :(
brilliant - thanks so much
Niceness. This was brilliant. I typically affix my bounce modifiers to the narrow end of the flash when I'm using on camera flash, though. That way when I tilt my camera to Portrait Orientation (vertically) the flash and modifier stay above the lens and don't end up extremely low and to one side. With off camera flash, affixing it to the broad end of the flash like most people teach is fine. Great DIY vid. Enjoyed it :)
Thank you so much !!😊
dimension may please be provided.
I appreciate as you have completely explained thoroughly in very easy way one could understand very easily now I can make if do a favour if dimensions be shown
Khalid mohiuddin
Lahore
Pakistan
great idea thank you.
Thanks for fixing the download link.
thank you so much
Woowwww !! Thank you so much !!
Las grampas de la parte blanca van a rayar el flash, por lo demas me parece una gran idea
Very nice. Thank you Sir. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Very nice. Thank you Sir!⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
The diffuser should be as close as possible to the subject. It will become or near to a spotlight source if too far like your one. And the flash is the father, the better in order to soften the light.
You deserve an Oscar. Thanks
Fotos de ejemplo, con y sin el difusor
If you REVERSE the anvil on the stapler, you'll flatly PIN the staples to the foam - not bumps.
Super !
Thanks !
It is overcomplicated. Craft foam is stiff enough to support itself.
To attach the diffuser to the flash you can use ordinary (black?) hair elastic that is found in all supermarkets (at least here in Norway). Simpler and better than Velcro.
OK for horizontals but some people take verticals and this design is not as pleasing from the side.
I think I learned more from the bloopers.
Only downside: Portraits in Portrait-orientation
The only problem is your diffusers do not illuminate the underside of your subjects.
Its a reflector not a diffuser
It’s both, it scatters light as well as changing its direction of travel.