I love the way you mention the "little things" like "watch out for the CV boot". Just the kind of thing that we don't want to learn the hard way. Some of us have been know to tear up something trying to fix something.
if you will scribe around the original strut where it bolts to the spindle and use those marks to align the replacement strut you probably won't need to pay for an alignment. also using a torch to heat the nuts on the sway bar links will make them release and also burn off any rust. (thermal shock)
Jim......your video was amazing. Never thought I could make this kind of repair. You made it stupid-easy! Thanks so much. Two things it did in reflection. #1) The repair is not as complex as it seems #2) It made me hunt at the junkyard for the replacement struts. Never was a junkyard junkie, but I am now! Pulling the two struts on my own cost me $50 + time. What would have cost me $600-$700 was instead, a tank of gas. Awesome Jim. Thanks so much!
This video was very helpful. I changed the front struts and stabilizer links on our 2006 minivan today. For the nuts on the lower part of the strut it is highly recommended to have a deep socket. For holding the stabilizer bolt steady, I found having a thin wrench to be useful. The nicer wrench from Gearwrench that I have as well as a vice grips, was simply too thick. Using a thin wrench helped me avoid tearing or pinching the rubber boot on the stabilizer links. Also, highly recommend having a set of crow foot wrenches.
Love your work man ! You're inspiring me to get my old ride in order 94 Cutlass Ciera , replacing crankshaft position sensor, have to remove harmonic balancer to do it, hope this cures the hiccups the 3.1 liter has been exhibiting and trouble code 0341, as I've done a complete tune up and replaced ignition coils and control module. A mere 109K on my dad's old car, now mine. Hope to have it around for many more years to come. Keep up the awesome work man, you inspire me and many others I'm sure!
Great video man, helped me alot. Got a damn good laugh at 20 minute mark. "Should I go back to the new bolts? Sure." I share that excitement completely!
Awesome advice Sir. I enjoyed watching your video, but I did have a question regarding just how much I'd have to tighten everything up. Is there a factory torque wrench specification for any of the bolts, or is the procedure a straight forward operation. I watched the video during a major thunderstorm and the video was interpreted several times when the lightning struck. It completely wiped out both the audio, and the video portions of the presentation on my computer . Thank you for sharing your time and expertise . Take care and stay safe Sir .
Great job explaining and showing the essential work to successfully complete the installation. Well Done! Why did you pick Moog Quick Struts vs others like KYB, Monroe or Gabriel? How is the ride compared to the original OEM struts?
Great video! Have you ever had a problem where the strut snapped in half? My friends did that and her spring is hanging side ways! Trying to figure out the safest way to do the job.
I did the struts and links on my 2002 T&C. Since I was replacing both the link and the strut, I did not disconnect the link on the strut and save a little time.
Thanks for the video very helpful. Were your stabilizer bars bad or is this something you did since you were there? I have 05 T & C Ltd so this was useful to watch. Service manuals are great but find visuals more clear.
Also, you shouldn't tighten the 3 nuts on top of the strut until after you put the tire back on and lower the Jack, putting the vehicle weight back on the strut so the bolts are fully seated through the top holes.
I can't tell if you are joking or not, but I would not worry about it. Those 3 top bolts are going to pull the strut up tight even with the van up in the air.
@@xXFraudXx i think what you mean is the only right way to do it is your way. Check out Eric O with South Main auto th-cam.com/video/Ou7I93AjFm4/w-d-xo.html at 8:30, or th-cam.com/video/YREc9gIJuco/w-d-xo.html at 10:35 the car is not on the ground when he the tightens the top bolts. You can feel when something is pulled up tight, and you don't need the weight of the car to assist with pulling the strut up tight, but I'm sure I won't change your mind. Either way will work fine.
Just an fyi if you are replacing the strut and the sway bar link toghether then you don't need to disconnect the link from the strut just disconnect it from the sway bar. That's how I did it on my 2002 T&C. Happy Motoring.
Great video I bought a 2005 chrysler town and country from a older women my mom took care of and she got another car and sold the chrysler to me for literally 2500 dollars and only had 40,000 miles to I couldn't believe it I didn't even need a van but I would be stupid to not buy it and days after I started to realize that the shocks and struts probably are bad makes a pretty loud noise when hitting small bumbs or speed bumbs just curious if anyone has had that on there 2005 style chrysler and I'm definitely going to fix it all it still only has 52,000 miles on it and I've seen these vans last along time so I'm wondering if the whole front most likely needs change as well as brakes
The upper nuts on the sway bar links can be really hard to get off because the threads get really corroded. The lower ones may not be as hard because less thread is exposed and the threads may be covered in oil.
That strut bar link has ovalled lock nuts, so they come off hard. Take your time and use a quality torx bit so you don’t strip it. Have your elbow grease ready.
I have an 06 T & C with a steady knocking sound in right front. I first replaced both swaybar links and swaybar bushings, but still knocking sound, Was your symptom a knocking sound why you replaced struts ? sounds like I will do my struts next. Thank you.
Yes, it was knocking sound. There is a bearing on the top of the strut that goes bad. Get the tire about 2" off the ground and place a big pry bar under the tire and jerk the tire up/down. You should be able to hear the sound coming from the top. The quick strut comes with the shock/spring/bearing, so will solve the problem.
@@jimdandy6472 installed 2 new front KYB struts 06 Town and country, Quiet for 3 months, Now ever single drive way or speed bump very squeaky and creaking, how are yours doing?
@@rbk7876 I installed Moog Struts over three years ago and still doing fine. Squeaky and creaking are not the classic signs of failing struts. There are lots of other things in the front end that can make those noises. Safely get under the front and have someone else pull up and down on an open door, turn the steering wheel, etc. and see if you can hear/find/feel the noise.
There is no reason to remove the upper nut that connects the sway bar link to the strut if you're replacing both the strut and sway bar links (which is how you should do it anyway), it's a waste of time and pain in the ass you don't need to suffer through. Disconnect the sway bar link from the sway bar (lower nut) and pull the strut with the sway bar link still connected.
you spent a lot of time on that sway bar link when you are throwing it away anyway, just leave it attached to the strut & undo the bottom bolt from the sway bar
I think I mentioned that some of the work I was doing was unnecessary in my case since I was installing new sway bars, but wanted to show what would be necessary if you were trying to save some bucks and reuse the sway bars.
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I love the way you mention the "little things" like "watch out for the CV boot". Just the kind of thing that we don't want to learn the hard way. Some of us have been know to tear up something trying to fix something.
Can't thank you enough Jim. Followed your instructions. Saved me $500.00. Excellent instruction video. Thanks.
if you will scribe around the original strut where it bolts to the spindle and use those marks to align the replacement strut you probably won't need to pay for an alignment. also using a torch to heat the nuts on the sway bar links will make them release and also burn off any rust. (thermal shock)
Jim......your video was amazing. Never thought I could make this kind of repair. You made it stupid-easy! Thanks so much. Two things it did in reflection. #1) The repair is not as complex as it seems #2) It made me hunt at the junkyard for the replacement struts. Never was a junkyard junkie, but I am now! Pulling the two struts on my own cost me $50 + time. What would have cost me $600-$700 was instead, a tank of gas. Awesome Jim. Thanks so much!
Don’t know why you would go to a junkyard for struts. You’ll just be replacing them again.
This video was very helpful. I changed the front struts and stabilizer links on our 2006 minivan today. For the nuts on the lower part of the strut it is highly recommended to have a deep socket. For holding the stabilizer bolt steady, I found having a thin wrench to be useful. The nicer wrench from Gearwrench that I have as well as a vice grips, was simply too thick. Using a thin wrench helped me avoid tearing or pinching the rubber boot on the stabilizer links. Also, highly recommend having a set of crow foot wrenches.
Love your work man !
You're inspiring me to get my old ride in order
94 Cutlass Ciera , replacing crankshaft position sensor, have to remove harmonic balancer to do it, hope this cures the hiccups the 3.1 liter has been exhibiting and trouble code 0341, as I've done a complete tune up and replaced ignition coils and control module. A mere 109K on my dad's old car, now mine. Hope to have it around for many more years to come. Keep up the awesome work man, you inspire me and many others I'm sure!
Jim, I really appreciate the patience and detail you provide in this video. Thank You so very much for explaining this. Excellent Teaching video!
nice job with the sway bar link. mine were so seized that i had to cut both of mine off.
Wow 💥 swaybar links with grease fittings ! Nice parts!!!
Great video man, helped me alot. Got a damn good laugh at 20 minute mark. "Should I go back to the new bolts? Sure." I share that excitement completely!
Great Job Sir you were very detailed in the Installation of the struts very well explained.
EXCELLENT EXPLANATION.
Those sway bar links came off like butter... I had to cut mine off.
Jim thank you for this and your thoughts.... 'David Hill' (below) his tools are fine, and it is not 'painful to watch'
Awesome advice Sir. I enjoyed watching your video, but I did have a question regarding just how much I'd have to tighten everything up. Is there a factory torque wrench specification for any of the bolts, or is the procedure a straight forward operation. I watched the video during a major thunderstorm and the video was interpreted several times when the lightning struck. It completely wiped out both the audio, and the video portions of the presentation on my computer . Thank you for sharing your time and expertise . Take care and stay safe Sir .
Great job explaining and showing the essential work to successfully complete the installation. Well Done!
Why did you pick Moog Quick Struts vs others like KYB, Monroe or Gabriel? How is the ride compared to the original OEM struts?
Great video! Have you ever had a problem where the strut snapped in half? My friends did that and her spring is hanging side ways! Trying to figure out the safest way to do the job.
You did Amazing Job God bless you man .
Thanks for the positive comment, and Merry Christmas.
I remember when I replaced my swaybar links, the nuts were a pita too.
I did the struts and links on my 2002 T&C. Since I was replacing both the link and the strut, I did not disconnect the link on the strut and save a little time.
Thanks for the video very helpful. Were your stabilizer bars bad or is this something you did since you were there? I have 05 T & C Ltd so this was useful to watch. Service manuals are great but find visuals more clear.
Thank you for share !!! This is really helpful 🥇
Also, you shouldn't tighten the 3 nuts on top of the strut until after you put the tire back on and lower the Jack, putting the vehicle weight back on the strut so the bolts are fully seated through the top holes.
looks like i need to open up the hood again and retighten mine.
I can't tell if you are joking or not, but I would not worry about it. Those 3 top bolts are going to pull the strut up tight even with the van up in the air.
@@jimdandy6472 there's a right way to do it and many wrong ways, yours is not the right way.
@@xXFraudXx i think what you mean is the only right way to do it is your way. Check out Eric O with South Main auto th-cam.com/video/Ou7I93AjFm4/w-d-xo.html at 8:30, or th-cam.com/video/YREc9gIJuco/w-d-xo.html at 10:35 the car is not on the ground when he the tightens the top bolts. You can feel when something is pulled up tight, and you don't need the weight of the car to assist with pulling the strut up tight, but I'm sure I won't change your mind. Either way will work fine.
hows the struts..three years later?? How does it compare to factory ride before the new struts?
Still working fine. It's hard to compare factory ride on a 15 year old van, but seems fine to me, an the clunking is gone.
Just an fyi if you are replacing the strut and the sway bar link toghether then you don't need to disconnect the link from the strut just disconnect it from the sway bar. That's how I did it on my 2002 T&C. Happy Motoring.
Great video I bought a 2005 chrysler town and country from a older women my mom took care of and she got another car and sold the chrysler to me for literally 2500 dollars and only had 40,000 miles to I couldn't believe it I didn't even need a van but I would be stupid to not buy it and days after I started to realize that the shocks and struts probably are bad makes a pretty loud noise when hitting small bumbs or speed bumbs just curious if anyone has had that on there 2005 style chrysler and I'm definitely going to fix it all it still only has 52,000 miles on it and I've seen these vans last along time so I'm wondering if the whole front most likely needs change as well as brakes
It's very similar ay my 96 Town country!
The upper nuts on the sway bar links can be really hard to get off because the threads get really corroded. The lower ones may not be as hard because less thread is exposed and the threads may be covered in oil.
Great video did good explaining thanks for a super video.
Thanks sr. Very well thanks for teache me👍
Well done thanks for the video Dan👍
That strut bar link has ovalled lock nuts, so they come off hard. Take your time and use a quality torx bit so you don’t strip it. Have your elbow grease ready.
What tools did you specifically use?
Jim dandy. To the ressscue" 🎶
I have an 06 T & C with a steady knocking sound in right front. I first replaced both swaybar links and swaybar bushings, but still knocking sound, Was your symptom a knocking sound why you replaced struts ? sounds like I will do my struts next. Thank you.
Yes, it was knocking sound. There is a bearing on the top of the strut that goes bad. Get the tire about 2" off the ground and place a big pry bar under the tire and jerk the tire up/down. You should be able to hear the sound coming from the top. The quick strut comes with the shock/spring/bearing, so will solve the problem.
@@jimdandy6472 Thank You will update .
@@jimdandy6472 installed 2 new front KYB struts 06 Town and country, Quiet for 3 months, Now ever single drive way or speed bump very squeaky and creaking, how are yours doing?
@@rbk7876 I installed Moog Struts over three years ago and still doing fine.
Squeaky and creaking are not the classic signs of failing struts. There are lots of other things in the front end that can make those noises. Safely get under the front and have someone else pull up and down on an open door, turn the steering wheel, etc. and see if you can hear/find/feel the noise.
@@jimdandy6472 Thanks, will do, did new sway bar links and bushings, still noise, maybe Ball joints, appreciate it..
Excellent video, Sir. How are the struts holding up for you?
100%!
Hello. Do you happen to know if your TC was 113.3 or 119 WB?
119"
My 02 t&c almost 200,000 but everything is rusty on the bottom.
B R A V O.... G E N I A L
There is no reason to remove the upper nut that connects the sway bar link to the strut if you're replacing both the strut and sway bar links (which is how you should do it anyway), it's a waste of time and pain in the ass you don't need to suffer through. Disconnect the sway bar link from the sway bar (lower nut) and pull the strut with the sway bar link still connected.
It's usually easier to just cut the sway bar link, pull the strut, then remove the lower nut on the sway bar link now that there's more room to work.
you spent a lot of time on that sway bar link when you are throwing it away anyway, just leave it attached to the strut & undo the bottom bolt from the sway bar
I think I mentioned that some of the work I was doing was unnecessary in my case since I was installing new sway bars, but wanted to show what would be necessary if you were trying to save some bucks and reuse the sway bars.
I buy junkyard struts without fail 👌
You have have another rod ✂ the rod.
Holy shit this was painful to watch.. Buy some tools man
dumb ass unhelpful comment
Dave his tools are fine. Didn't anybody teach you if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all.