The Washed-Up Surfer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 เม.ย. 2024
- The Washed-Up Surfer has been a passion video project of mine for the last year. I dive into my love for surfing, camping and adventure, and how life's realities can pull you away from the things we love doing. I finally managed to finish this video without being distracted by work and other sideline videos. I hope to do more adventure videos like this one in the future.
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Form an amputee surfer who still gets out there
Get it dawg
You might feel like youve got no support or love inspiring you to get out there but remember
Im out here and i want you to go surf
Grab a midlength
Grab a fish
And go surfing
Its all about getting more waves as you get less capable
A great friend and inspo told me its all about time on your feet/ foot in my case hahaha
Make sure your equipment helps you on that front
Noone cares to watch people surf a shortboard badly when theres people who surf them so well
But we’d love to see you surf well and have fun and be creative on different stuff
Cheers and yeeeeeewwww
Love your comment brah! Such true words. Thank you for putting things into perspective my friend. It's so epic that you're still surfing, and I will definitely draw some inspiration from you. Thank you and hope to meet you in the water one day. Sending you good vibes and positive energy. 🤙
@@Squidpaws-I understand
67 years old and still surf and definitely see my surfing ability in decline.Still have my moments and am very grateful I can still surf.Also have been eating a carnivore diet a year and a half.
That's awesome, and I love hearing this. It definitely inspires me to do the same. I think a balanced diet is important, but at times I still have my weak moments 😅. Appreciate your comment. Thank you 🤙
Turning 70 next week. I need a knee replacement, my neck is a mess, my arms are rubbery, my balance is crap. The struggle is real. Now I ride a 35 foot board. A cruising sailboat. It fills the hole in my life that surfing left. I can surf waves on it, but nothing beats dropping in, pulling up and getting shacked, but it's going to have to do. Still consider myself a waterman. Hopefully after I get a new knee there will be enough left in the tank to get the 9' 6" into some kneeslappers. Adapt.
Hey Peter! Happy 70th birthday for next week 🎂. Once a surfer, always a waterman. Sailing is not a bad substitute for surfing, that's for sure. I hope that you get your new knee soon and that you heal up quickly. I guess adapt is all we can do as the times go by. Thank you for sharing and happy sailing 🤙
I'm there brother! I'm 68 and still getting out there. I still hold on to my 6'6" for some reason (refusal to grow older) but most of the time it's a 9'0" longboard or 7'4" mid. I hate surfing crappy waves but I know my clock is ticking so it's 'get-it-while-you-can'. The ocean is my sanctuary and gives me peace of mind.
Sounds like surfing is keeping you young. Reading your comment inspires me to be like you man 😃. Wishing you many more sessions 🤙.
They say age is just a number. I caught my first 'stand up' wave at 'Nofre in 1958 at 6 years old. Last month I caught a few waves and it took days to recover! Worth it! Barreliciousness!! Charge em with Aloha!
Surfing at 6 must have been an absolute blast. I'm happy to hear you're still getting waves. Take care always 🤙
This is loke me as a retired welder. I like to just sit around watching the welders weld, and once in a wihile i might weld here or there
I'm happy to hear that you can relate. I've worked on some maintenance jobs with coded welders, and it's a mad skill to have.
53 years old and I'm more stoked to surf nowadays than I was when I was 16. Never stop.
That's great advise! Thank you... 🤙
I’m 44 I feel like 24 when I’m surfing it keeps you young, when I get out of the water everything hurts 😂 until the next session and everything goes away.
That's so funny man! I know exactly what you mean. Thanks for your comment. Stay young brah!
surfing is a life lesson. i agree. it can teach us so many things. peace and love from Japan
Peace and love right back to you brah. Thank you for the positive vibes 🤙
ive surfed since 1970 and i still surf avidly im 65yrs young . always remember GOD HAS BETTER THAN SURFING GOD IS LOVE SEEK CHRIST AND YOU SHALL FIND GOD BLESS YOU BRU.🤙🙏
Thank you for the blessing 🙏 🤙
I'm about to turn 62, and ive just got back on a board after an 8 year lay-off due to old injuries, carrying too much weight, and other unhealthy choices. I managed to drop 12kgs, give away the grog 30months ago, and since Easter just past, have had 5 surfs on my 2nd hand 9' softie! If the best surfer in the water is the one with the biggest grin, then i am a world champion haha!
You don't lose your wave selection, and other key skills, and my stoke levels are through the roof😁. I had to take a humility dose, and lower the bar on my performance expectations, but I appreciate everything about 'the surfing life' like i never did before. Good luck Squiddy and ill be following your journey..
That's so epic champ! Well done man. Old injuries can be so annoying. I'm dealing with old injuries as well that keep me out the water. I'm hoping to get it sorted soon as well. Thanks for sharing your experience, and I appreciate the support here. Take care and wish you the best 🤙
Im 54 and dont get as many chances to surf because I live more inland now, but I love the fact that I can still surf hard....I am really inspired to surf, and so I work out 4-5 times a week, practice paddling on the local river, and really really watch what I eat...I jump rope a lot and that really helps. I used to compete in surf tournaments in my teens and early 20s, and got to fairly high level- and I can honestly say I surf better now than when I was about 30- Because at 30 I took it for granted- Did not work out and thought I could still eat whatever I wanted, like when I was 20. I gained lots of weight and was totally out of physical shape. As I got older I realized my metabolism really slowed down, so I had to work out a lot and I could not keep eating garbage. The result? My body weight now is only about 5 or 10 pounds more than when I was 21 years old surfing in college everyday- my cardio is strong and I can pop up pretty fast on that board- You can still do it well into the years...Keep going my friend- Never stop!!! God bless you thanks for cool video...
Sounds like you're on the right program brah! Thank you for sharing your experience. Health is definitely important at this age. I wish I had taken better care of my body in my 20's, then I won't be dealing with old injuries today 😄. I've also been trying to find a balanced diet for the last 10 years, but I have my weak moments/weeks where I just eat way to much unhealthy foods.
Thanks for watching the video, and talk to you again soon 🤙
It always feels better after a surf than not to surf. Hands down. Just go out to wash it all off. The stress and bullshit of daily life.
So very true! The first duckdive always feels like it's washing off some stress. The rest is a bonus. 🤙
53 yo n just had 2 years out of the water with shoulder joint replacement and knee cartilage operation, definitely felt like a washed up surfer n didnt think i would get it back, was a complete kook n novice first few sessions....in couple short months I've progressed from a mal to mini mal to a mid length and just gotten on my old short board!!! Its all in the mindset!!!
That's amazing man! I'm stoked you're getting back into it and that your recovery went well. Happy days brah!🤙
Being 53 I can relate. I still surf. Just pay attention to your own limits. An injury at this age can really set you back. I love to watch the stoke in young surfers. Brings back good memories. Take care!
I agree 100%. The last big swell I saw in Cape Town was way to big for my limits at this age. The risk of getting injured, and then not being able to work was not worth it. So like many others, I just watched from the shore and got some great footage that I'll try work into my next video. Thanks for watching and stay safe. 🤙
I surfed actively until age 52, living in California, Big Island, Ecuador, and Peru. Now I'm 76 but still get a rush out of seeing good waves.
That's so epic! I don't think surfing ever leaves the mind. I know a few 70 year olds that still spend their weekends at the beach hanging out with the surf crowd. Take and thank you 🤙
Once a surfer, always a surfer🤙🏼
Right on brah! 🤙
Longtime surfer now in later 50's...recovering from some injuries with physio...out of the groove and a bit out of shape post covid...spending a lot of time mind surfing...still have my boards and plan to be back soon!
Sending you healing vibes and positive energy 🤙. I'm also constantly sidelined with an old back injury. I'm hoping to get it sorted in the future.
Im 711/2 yrs young and looking forward to recovering from my previous hospital stsy of over a yr and going out to be a surfer girl again havent been out since my mid sixties but still dream of doing it again by
I wish you a speedy recovery and sending you lots of healing vibes 🤙
66 Years and surf in the North Atlantic. Can have a great session and surf well and the next, you would think I have been at it for only a month! Full on kook mode!
But every day in the water is a victory. Thank heavens for the advancements in wetsuit design.
Looking forward to more of your posts.
Thanks Hugh.
I'm not a big fan of cold water, but you're not wrong about wetsuit technology these days. "Every day in the water is a victory". I like that statement, thank you! 🤙
Just surf, snowboard and skate and be glad you still can 🤙
Yeah man I'm super grateful for the life I have. Gave up skating many years ago to prevent serious injury. At some point, you have to draw the line to prevent damaging the money maker 😄. Never tried snowboarding but would love to try it. Take care and thanks for watching 🤙
Live in So Cal. Retired at 74 but still surfing with granddaughters. Not the balance and stamina and waves are smaller. But there is nothing better.
That's incredible! Thanks for sharing. Hope I can say the same one day 🤙
First....haha! Man, this is amazing bro, congrats man. I am like you, I have been very selected and if its not 3-5 feet I will take a pass. Love your videos bro, so much quality, cameras, microphone, so good, STOKED!!! #letsgo
Hey Andrew.
Much appreciated my friend. Yes the surf stoke is something that I can't ever let go of. Maybe catch a few with you in the future 🤙
only a surfer knows the feeling . Got to love your honesty . The torment of the waves and the pull of society's whims . Mate its easy you dont need much at the end of the day . Fell into a rut in my 40s after surfing pretty hard for 34 years . Get fit and you'll be ripping everyday . Im watching ,so lets go!
True that! 🤙
Funny, honest and thought provoking. I'm a subscriber. 65 years of age. mostly surf the East Coast USA. Winters are getting tougher and tougher. Told my wife I'm done with winter surf, from now on I'm waiting till the water gets to 57. Just looked at Surfline, there may be some small clean waves next week. I'm definitely done after that....
Hey, thanks for your insightful comment. I appreciate the sub thank you. I feel the same about the water temperature in Cape Town. It sometimes feels like torture when it gets so cold 😅. Hope you catch a few before winter hits. 🙏
Somebody should interview Steve Poor. 76 years old and surfs pipeline every day. He was a 1980s champion and has lived on the North Shore for 40 or 50 years.
That's incredible. Sounds like Bruce Gold from Jeffrey's bay. He is also in his mid 70's and if I'm not mistaken, he is still charging... 🤙
Nice camping setup. I visited some friends in Oz and we towed a caravan with an annex which was my home for three months. The caravan parks were clean and uncrowded(1979). No freeways or toll roads. Undeveloped coastal property was everywhere between Sydney and Byron Bay then. Surfed just about everyday good or bad. Clean air sure works.
Thank you! That sounds like the good old days. Most of the caravan parks in South Africa are also quite clean and well equipped with water and electricity, but then there are also some that don't have anything. You also pay for what you get and camping has become quite expensive during peak season. Thank you for sharing your camping experiences. 🤙
Can’t wait to follow along with your journey.
Hey Zander
Appreciate it, thank you. It's going to take some time and a bit of planning, but hopefully, I can pull it off 🤙
@@Squidpaws- yeah mate good luck, something I’d love to do soon too, travel more and live outdoors more
I'm 63 still love surfing everyday but find it hard to be motivated. I see the younger crew amped and that stokes me. So wax up and surf. Lucky I can out surf most people I do it for fun now. I surfed nearly everyday for 30 years. Never say never
I love hearing this! I have some friends your age that still surf every change they get. That's a big inspiration to see. Thanks for spreading the stoke 🤙
Surfing has to be one of the cruelest sports for growing old. Our minds still operate at the same speed as in our teens and twenties but that's where it ends. Thankfully God made beer for us.
Very true! There is nothing wrong with a good mind-surfing session 🙂
and fishing
@@shaneyule3484 praise the creator for surfing and fishing. How lucky the soul who gets to partake in either.
...yeah! beer aka poison is your problem and it starts in youth with alckey influencers who might surf good but really stupid don't follow the crowd 👉red bullshit dialysis machine mo poison
Beer might be a problem
🔥 🔥 🔥
Thanks for showing us around! 🐊🌴🐬
You are very welcome! Thanks for watching...🤙
Stoke comes from proving physical abilities to yourself only. Dont ever stop your confidences from their desires..
Love this quote! Thank you for sharing 🙏
I found your channel today, I really enjoyed it and subscribed, I don’t surf … I live in central Alabama lol not exactly a surfing area. But I find the content to be something I’m really interested in… surfer or not your message is awesome for a 55 year old land lover…thanks again ✝️🇺🇸🤙🏻🅰️
Hey thank you so much, and welcome to the channel. I'm really happy to hear that you enjoy the vids. Take care always 🤙
I like the pace and cinematography of your vid. I can relate to your vid better than JOB and Ben Gravy. You are more similar to where I am in the surfing universe. I like the place where you live - nice view!
Thank you so much. I'm happy to hear you enjoyed the video and that you could relate. That means a lot man. South Africa has a beautiful coastline, and the views are spectacular. I get to enjoy it for 2-3 months a year, and then it's back to the grind 🤙
I surfed from ten to twenty five years old and moved for a job and it took me away from the ocean for fifteen years. I am now back close to the ocean and getting back into the swing of things. A bigger fun shape is a must for me, it’s grueling on my shoulders otherwise and allows me to actually get into waves. I enjoy just being by the ocean. Surfing, scuba diving,fishing or just relaxing. Always makes me feel better than I did before even if I don’t get in the water.
I'm stoked that you found surfing again after 15 year brah. That's so epic man! You've said it... Surfing, driving, fishing and relaxing. That's the life man. Thanks for sharing 🤙
Awesome Louw! Hope you can pull it off , I'll definitely be glued to the screen for the series! Thanks for sharing as always!
Thanks my brah! It's gonna take some time and a bit of planning, but I definitely want to make this a really.
Just a beautiful message you opened up to us... and at 64 I'm right there with you in Brazil.
Thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate it.
That was awesome! 🙌🏾
Thanks so much. I'm glad you enjoyed it 🤙
Love it ! looking forward to more videos ...
So happy to hear that, thank you.
In your head. And the choices you make. I'm 66. Still surfing as strong as ever. You have learned your lessons, made the connection and attained the knowledge that only years of surfing can bring. Don't throw any of that away...for anything. Work your work meet your commitments...and stay relevant in your connection with the great ocean. You are far from washed up...my best mate was from Durban. Stoked and capable. Strong and centered. Then one day a seizure. 6 months later we cremated him. Brain cancer. Embrace the moment.
That's heavy man, I'm sorry to hear that about your friend. It's so true what you are saying. I'm definitely going to embrace the moment more. There are so many positive messages in this comment section, including yours. Thank you for the positive vibes, much appreciated 🤙
Left SA 20 odd years ago, remember surfing with you and the boys as a kid, clubbies, wild side...stoked to see you getting amongst it and still ripping! Good things brah 🤙
No ways! Hope you're doing good brah. Those were the days man. Thanks for bringing back these good old memories. Take care 🤙
It's hard for some to keep surfing for many reasons, for me I only get in a bodysurf every now and again, but that is still great, in a way I find it more pure, plus it's a lot easier to get through clean up sets!
Body surfers are usually strong swimmers. I respect that man because without my surfboard, I will be in big trouble in a heavy swell. Stay safe and thanks for watching 🤙
@@Squidpaws- And especially without your leash ha ha, stay stoked!
@markeggins890 yeah man my brother snapped his leash once while we were surfing quite a sketchy reef break in a rip current on the wild side of Port Elizabeth. I paddled over to him and before we knew it, we were two-up sitting on my surfboard getting pulled out to see. We got rescued by 2 guys fishing on a rubber duck. Scary situation at the time, but happy to be dropped off at the slipway. 🤙
Getting out in front of the 🌊 can be the hardest part of surfing some days. 🤙🏻
Yes after not surfing for 9 months, and picking up a few extra kg's, I found myself going over the falls quite a few times 😅 🤙
Are you Kidding,😉 I was like a Beached Whale/
Mammal 😆@@Squidpaws-
Awesome vid! Well done.
Thank you Steve, much appreciated 🙏
Lekker brah! Love it! Hits close home for me and makes me want to go have a paddle 👊🤙
Aweh! Shot thanks brah. We should definitely connect for a paddle!
44 yr old here just getting into surfing, or getting back into it, depending how you look at it. I like to think I'm in the best-worst shape of my life. Daily yoga, walks and lots of cycling (and not pouring any of that bull sh*t into my head these days) has helped me be the leanest, strongest in my life but everything in my body aches lol. Anyways, the soft top, easier to paddle boards have helped me catch more waves than I have ever before. I don't live close to any waves so just getting there is a bit of a commitment but hope to get out much more. Good video and honesty.
That's so epic! Best or worst shape, you can't go wrong with getting back into surfing. I'm definitely going to get a few soft tops in the future. Sending good vibes and positive energy 🤙
Had to quit when I broke my back at 22 so got serious about school became a neuropsychologist then at 50 got into waveski did that until 71 then retired again the ocean is just fun to watch,play in, fill your thoughts with. At 77 still enjoy watching. A lot to look forward to
Thank you for your wise and encouraging words. You have an amazing story to be told and wish I could hear more. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Excellent Louw. Yes man. Jou ander content is net so awesome. Time to grow this channel and get that dream going. Coast to Coast with the Washed-Up Surfer.
Thanks brah! Waardeur dit. Coast to coast sounds great. Take care 🤙
I LOVE the @BenGravy plug! Thanks for the share, such a authentic reflection of your experience. Feels motivating seeing you finding balance in career and surf.
I don't think he actually referencing Ben Gravy himself. I think the voice to text said "Ben Gravy" when it should have "been gravy" which actually sounds more in line with this guy's video.
Thanks Alex brah, much appreciated! Balance is important, and I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Yeah, the Ben Gravy quote just kinda slipped out 😄🤙
Been Gravy, Ben Gravy... Same thing right? 😄🤙
I really enjoyed this video, first time seeing you. Great work!
I'm happy to hear you enjoyed it. Thank you for your positive comment 🙏
NYC is rooting for you brotha 🤙🏽Keep going from place to place ✌🏽✌🏽✌🏽
NYC! Much appreciated, thank you 🤙
Legend. Nice one Bru, keep the posts coming.
Thanks brah! I'm working on the next video 🤙
I relate to this guy. I’m a washed up surfer as well. All my obligations have forced me to put surfing on the back burner
Glad you can relate brah! Hope you can get back into it once you reach your goals. Once a surfer always a surfer 🤙
Love it! I am 52 and feel the same. I can feel the stoke through other peoples waves when checking the surf. When they get to the beach I like to remind them about their wave, barrel, or hack. Seeing the smile on their faces makes me stoked as well...
That's a classic way to spread the stoke man! Thank you for sharing 🤙
That’s awesome! I love seeing the kiddos getting stoked. Gives me a smile as well. Take care!
Are you too old @ 52,?
@@user-bn3ed4db3b no, I still rip on my 5'7" fish but all I need at this age is one good wave to make my day and more compliments to others about their wave especially beginners. Live Aloha Bruddah! 🤙🏾
Do it boet! Live the dream. Looking for inspiration - 52 years old. Yes, time is precious, and the body does not get younger.
Thank you! I would love to put this into reality, but it will take some planning and time to pull it off. Thanks for watching 🤙
Love the KTM hat ! Everyone needs an EXC 350 in their life.
Thank you! Gotta support our guy #33...
I’m not washed up. Retired. Whacked fused neck. Herniated lumbar discs. Laying on, and paddling a board ain’t what it used to be.
It’s pain and weakness. Sure, I’ll paddle the 9’6” on a small day and catch a couple.
It’s a bummer coming to terms with it, but the pivot came pretty fast.
Mountain biking. Comfortable for the spine. It’s comparable to surfing: gotta ride up the hill (paddle out) before you get to go down the hill.
Anyway. I had a good run with surfing. I know what I did.
Now I’m doing it on a bike.
Stay stoked!
I’m 55 years old.
Hey Mike
Thank you for sharing. I'm glad to hear you have found something to fill the "not surfing gap."" Be careful on that mountain bike, brah! I have a similar nerve pinch issue on my lumbar due to an old injury that caused an end plate compression fracture, along with a few other medical terms I don't remember. The pain comes and goes depending on how active or inactive I am. I hope to get it fixed this year to avoid more issues in the future. Stay safe on the hills and take care brah! 🤙
This.
Your blowing it dude.stop eating like shit.get in the gym and fucking surf.
Thanks dude. Now hitting 38 and living inland. Due to financial responsibilities this video hit home to me. I plan on moving back to the coast after 18 years. But I'll be trying to put myself in the ocean as often as I can. Cheers.
Keep that dream alive brah! Hope you get some time in the ocean to keep the stoke going. Sending you good vibes and positive energy 🤙
This is such a cool video. Hope you make more content like this
Thank you so much 🙏.
Great video. Too relatable
Im happy to hear this man, thank you!
Mate, I'm 70 and the years of paddling Norcal surf have taken it's toll..........neck back knees and of course shoulders are worn out, and when I look at the waves I too think of that feeling, especially the hour long paddle outs at Ocean Beach SF, but I will still get out there and deal with the pain after
You are a machine brah! Much respect and thank you for sharing your experience. I need to take a page out of your book and push myself more.🤙
this is sick! subscribed. i can totally relate to the washed up surfer. i am one myself. haha! 😆🤙
Thank you so much. I'm happy to hear that, and welcome to the channel 🤙
Although there are areas I've declined I still feel I'm learning and improving in others. I am pushing 60 and my main surf buddy is over 70 . My body is much more beat up than his but I focus more on flow and carving nice lines.
I'm stoked to hear that you're still enjoying the surf. Who needs speed and power when you can carve and flow. Take care, and thank you for sharing 🤙
nice solid video man, keep going strong.
Gracias amigo! I appreciate it so much. 🤙
What a great idea for the series! You got my sub. 46 surf through icy winter and mostly shit waves, few aches but feeling strong and stoked. It reminds me the opportunity window for me to improve my surfing will close soon, or has it already 😅 curiuos to see how people enjoy the ocean when body says no. Greetings from Lithuania!
Thanks man I appreciate your support. It will take a bit of planning, and some time to make this a reality, but it's going to happen for sure. I'm already working on a follow up video. When I look at all the comments, the surfing window is quite big, depending on how well you take care of yourself. Guys are surfing into their 70's 🙌🤙
Love it brew🤙🏼
Thanks brah! I'm glad you enjoyed it 🤙
Excellent job, bru!
Hey Wolf.
Shot my brah. Pull in next time!
Hello from Florida USA and I think you have a great idea for the washed up surfer. Just be honest and truthful and let your life unfold( you have to keep it going like you did for this video and show a lot of "B" roll the normal life stuff and let it happen. God Bless ya man from a old surfer foiler in their 70"s. It only stops when you stop. think about that we have a really unique life style tribe of followers connected by what we all love and that is playing in the ocean and getting revitalized by what the ocean gives us. we are blessed. Keep send out now video pleas. Thanks JoeB
Love your comment, thank you Joe. I appreciate the advise. It's very true about the unique lifestyle that we live. It will take some time and a bit of planning to really make this dream materialize, but I'm already working on the next video. Take care always 🤙
We’re not washed up surfers, just spoiled from surfing great waves and conditions over the years. I am in the same boat as you my guy. Keep on keeping’ on.
Thanks brah! We are definitely spoiled with waves in South Africa, so this could definitely be the reason 😄🤙
@@Squidpaws- ITS STILL A GOOD TITLE,BROTHER.IM 63 GOIN ON 64 .GET SALTY.
Well I' m 44 😮, part of ur team !!! Leaving at the Mediterranean sea....the sea without waves, just in winter a little 😅. Because of my job....away from surf, but it keep me motivated to stay feet at least, stay ready for better organisation of my life!!! Wingfoiling in midtime. Surfing kept me away of bad things....to stay in the right path to be able to surf even a little!!! I know surfing can be always there somewhere. I support u, hopefully for u to surf more!!!!
Thank you so much brah. Sounds like you are staying busy with activities that keep you healthy and out of trouble. Good for you man! I appreciate your support. Take care 🤙
Keep up the good work brother
Thank you 🙏 🤙
I’m 65 . I started surfing at 9 in Hawaii . And then surfed off and on for 30 yrs . Swam or snorkel or fish and worked in the sun . But I never used any sun screen . Now I’m paying a bit for skin problems . I remember surfing 2 and 3 hrs a session and 2 sessions a day sometimes . So use sun protection !
One spot is in the outer ear canal .
3 surgeries in 20 yrs same spot .
USE SUNSCREEN everybody . Peace .
God Bless .
That's great advice, thank you. We seem to think we are bulletproof in our younger days. Take care always and happy surfing.
all the best bruva ,suns nasty
45 is young mate I’m 26 this year feeling really good in the water hurts to think that could change. Yoga weekly and constant froth to keep me going. You should try get a few larger fun boards easy to paddle, you can’t let the grom in you die ❤
Thanks brah. Yes, it's more the fact that I don't surf for 9-10 months of the year due to work obligations. Living a no care lifestyle in my 20's didn't help much either on the old injury side of things 😂I've already stepped up the volume in my boards, but a bigger board is definitely on the cards and alot fun to🤙
I love the Brad Binder/KTM hat!! Watching #33 slide that KTM never gets old.
Thanks! Yes man gotta support our local legend 🏍 🤙
Sport of Kings! Long live the king!
King Kelly! 🐐 😅🤙
@@Squidpaws- In my mind , I was thinking Mother Ocean was top of the chain and all of us mortal humans (guys) are trying to be King, while swimming in her.
Maybe I should have said , “ Long live the Queen”
I love doing Ocean checks. Especially first up in the morning. It’s a great way to start the day.Even if you don’t paddle, walking is ALWAYS good!
The sand and the water electrically balance your body. Walk barefoot 🦶!🙂🙂🦶🦶💪💪✌️
The ocean holds a very special energy indeed. Great advice man. 🤙
I just subscribed. Hope you get to 1,000 subs soon!
Thank you for the support brah! I appreciate you 🤙
I had a few years of surfing in central California when I came out west and it was Ann awesome time in my life, now 51 the closes I ge t is snowboarding with my kids but other things have filled the void. We all need something that drives us beside the rat race of work. I hope your endeavor works out. Never give up!
True words my friend. Thank you for the encouragement. Snowboarding is something I'd love to try one day as well. I've never even seen snow 😅. Happy board riding and thanks for sharing brah!🤙
@Squidpaws- yessir, if you wind up in the Pacific northwest let me know and we can show you the mt hood shreds braddah, stay true !
I appreciate that thank you🙏
@herdbull Where in central Cali? I am currently in Pismo beach.
@@louisrussell5105 I lived in San Simeon and worked in cambria
Nice camera shots /work
Appreciate it, thank you 🙏 🤙
The hurricane waves I surfed in my 20’s and 30’s are now more like 4 footers. I am ok with that because those of us who have paddled out into hurricane waves earned our stripes for a lifetime.
Yeah man sounds like you earned your stripes for sure. No need to prove anything to anyone. Enjoy the surf and thanks brah 🤙
Surfing is life mate. Cheers from Brittany
Cheers brah! Thank you for watching!🤙
Jefferys Bay
Margaret River
Snapper Rocks
Teahupoo
Pipeline
Huntington Beach
Nazare
The Washed-Up Surfers World Tour 🌍
😆 Now that sounds like a tour! Let's make the age 50+.
... Always looked at the older surfers at my local as just older surfers ... Not washed up... They still inspire me.
I spent most of my best years dedicated to another sport , but been doing all i can to surf as much as i can now at 53 years of age ... I have done some of my best surfing in the last few years however it rarely ever comes easy ... Thats the main difference for me 🙏
That's amazing man! I'm happy to hear your still surfing well and enjoying it. I hope I can also dedicate more time to surfing, fishing and camping in the coming years. Thanks for sharing 🤙
@@Squidpaws- ... Hey your welcome mate ... As you said in the video , " consistency is what's required really , for me that's been hard ... to force myself out for a paddle when it's average, but if I don't do it I'm never gonna be ready for when it's firing 🙏
@davecalneggia6285 Yes, that's so true. I live and work in and out of the Middle East for 9-10 months of the year. So go paddle on those smaller days brah. It will definitely pay off when it's firing 🤙
Greetings from australia mate. Im the aussie version of you. Our struggle is real my friend.
Greetings mate! Happy to have you on board man. Thank you for tuning in and take care.🤙
The times are changing. Start foil surfing. 😂👍 Downwinding is where it's at. You can do cardio and leg strength, and paddle strength exercises every day whether you are near the water or not. And foiling can be done on any water year around. Surf foil, tow foil, wing foil, dock starts, flat water paddle ups, and my favorite, down winding. 😎🤙
That's all sounds great brah! I've always wanted to try foiling. The problem is the time it takes time to learn it all and the fact that I work in the Middle East for 9-10 months of the year 😅. Thanks for the idea though I'll consider it. 🤙
Foil is not surfing, sorry brother
@@ocean-barrels 😂👍 Downwinding is a whole world you are missing. Enjoy the crowded lineups. No thank you.
Ahoy! Watch out for the 'forever chemicals' (PFAS) in that fry pan. Bad stuff Mr. Squidpaws. Thanks for the interesting video. Peace.
Hey Mark.
Thank you for the heads-up man, appreciate it. Heath is important. What do you recommend I use in the future?
@@Squidpaws- cast iron
@@sethrbloom thanks
For a hodad living that close to the ocean as I didn't Venice beach so cal...there is no excuse
If you don't have the stoke then you never had the stoke
It's pure bliss
The stoke is always there brah. I live and work away from the ocean for 9-10 months of the year. The retirement plan is to one day live the life of endless surfing again🤙
As I get older, my boards get longer! If it wasn’t for spending the summers in Mexico, I probably would only surf a few times a year… I lived in Costa, Nicaragua, and have surfed all over Mexico, the Hawaiian islands and spent some time surfing in Chile… its been tough to motivate over the past few years to paddle out at the sloppy beach break where I live… that said, I’ll be surfing every day for 6 weeks in a couple of months and I’m starting to feel my stoke bubble up! 🏄🏼♂️🎣🤙🏻
Yes, I have found that the size and volume of my boards also increase as I get older. Sounds like you've surfed some epic location man. That's awesome! Enjoy your 6 week strike mission, hope you score my friend.
@@Squidpaws- Thanks buddy! Ya, I’ve surfed some epic spots over the years… kinda got spoiled! Hard to get motivated for crappy beach breaks nowadays 🏄🏼♂️🎣🤙🏻
Smith shapes go hard
They go hard indeed. I got the Speed Demon a few months ago and I absolutely love that board. Thanks for watching 🙏
Great title 😊
Hey thanks brah! Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching. 🤙
Im 2 months away from total knee replacement surgery.
I am thankful for everyday i can get in the ocean.
It heals man,
Get Wet!
All the best with the surgery brah! Sending you healing vibes 🤙
Well this is refreshingly different, poetry even. So well crafted too. I'm sure you could have many donations to fuel the dream. 45/ 49 75, age is a state of mind.
Interesting take that age is just a state of mind, I like that. Thank you also for the kind words, much appreciated 🤙
I wasn't expecting so many social-political comments on a chill surf lifestyle video! the pressure is chasing you lol I appreciate what your creating with your project... I live in the low country in southeastern USA and I mean to do some paddling but I really seem to enjoy the driving around the swamps part enough not not need to get my gear out and get on the water but some days I do... its been an uncomfortable transition from the grind energy of my 20s and 30s to the maintenance energy of my 40s not bc I'm tired but bc I haven't figured out how to shift from passion, inspiration and spontaneity to planning, executing and repeating... I don't want to "do the same tomorrow" but I do want to be a healthy person as I age so... hope I get excited about managing soon
Very well explained my friend. It's difficult to find the same drive and motivation we had in out 20's for the same passion after 40. I do find that not having access to ocean for long stints at a time does ignite the fire. Keep going and stay healthy man 🤙.
With regards to the social-politacal comments. I find it funny that a chilled surf video can't even escape this.😅
🤙Yeeeew🤙
I don't give a fuck how old I am, we only live for a blink of an eye in the grand scheme of things...
This is so very true. Before we know it, it's done. 🤙
yo thanks for the song at 4:10 (Chant for Quisqueya)
It's a sick track, and I'll definitely use it in some other videos as well. Thanks for watching 🤙
Looks like a dream life if you ask me.
I definitely can't complain. Working for 10 months of the year to do this for 2 months is definitely worth it. 🤙
Cool lifestyle! Very little surfing on Lake Ontario where I am. I notice there are barbed-wire fences around the camping area; is that the norm there?
Thank you! Yes this is quite the norm at caravan parks that are close to, or in towns and cities around South Africa. Most parks will have a main security gate that's access controlled. You do however get some parks that are located in more quiet areas along the coast that's safer and not as protected.
@@Squidpaws- Thank you!
That made my day watching that in Sweden where we don’t get to surf much.off to gym…
Hey Phillip brah! Hope you're doing well my friend. Thanks man stoked you enjoyed it. Hope to surf together again when our paths cross again. Take care my brah 🤙
@@Squidpaws- yeah that would be fun.be nice to catch up it’s been too long.let me know if you around Sweden sometime.
@PhillipReed-eu3ez thanks brah! I'll definitely let you know man. I would love to try snowboarding one day.
@@Squidpaws- yeah it’s on I’ll take you to such fun places
🌊❤