What's with all the complaining about grabbing the chain anchor? It's the end of the pitch, there is no stance. It's a hanging belay. Pretty sure that's the way everybody does it. And yes, I have climbed the route (5-1/2 hours with the Apron Strings/Cruel Shoes start and one 45 meter rope, maybe 27 years ago). Nice video, I totally understand falling there. It's pumpy for sure. Next pitch, even more strenuous. Some of the people commenting below are not people I would ever want to meet. They are embarrassingly rude and must be unhappy with their situation in life. My advice? Go to Squamish, find out how awesome this climb is (and many, many other lines), and if you're still a grumpy know-it-all, post your own video to show us how you think it should be done.
Clearly a *real* climber would just glue themselves to the wall to belay. *eyeroll* Thanks for the comment. That looks like a beautiful and super tough line. So many walls, so little time....
Balls of steel... skill and courage man.....I can have all the chains in the hardware store and still won't be able to do what you guys do...kudos to you....
Cool, you got to do it all over again. Mike Barter you're full of it. There was so a guidebook, a yellow covered paperback with sweet hand drawn topos. I don't remember chains but I do remember the two pitches of old fuzzy marine rope used to hand over hand it past the rivet ladder -- I imagined this as the cord that dangled the Sword of Damocles, ready to break at any moment.
I wish I was this fit, but if I was, I would not have grabbed for the bolt. I would have tried to climb it clean. But alas I am not this fit. Congratulations on your fitness and the effort you put into this venture it is admirable.
Daaamn bro, you must have been gripped out of your mind not even being able to hang on the anchor...and fuck the people talking crap about grabbing the chains...if you can reach'em after a heinous layback, fair game.
People that just sport climb Don't understand what comes into play when you are trad climbing a multi pitch like that... you can't risk as much, ethics can go f*** themselves
@@Nuttyirishman85 it's funny, we were about to bring our film crew and stylists out and post some sick vids to the 'Gram but then we realized it was 2004.
Nicholas Gregoire You are fortunate. When I watch the MOST extreme freestyle climbing, my feet feel like they being beaten by thick, bamboo sticks. I kid you not!
Ha, my first lead of the sword almost ended exactly like this. I got my whole arm through the chains but I was so drained from that last layback and the chains were so slick that I just barely managed to get my personal anchor onto the chains before my arm gave way. I think they're perma-oily because everyone ends up grabbing them with sweaty hands.
My memory of the belay was clicking into the bolts (no chains 40 years ago) and getting settled into my belay seat. Then I looked around. Oh my God! What a view. I had been so focused on climbing for the last 300 feet that I had no idea where I was. It was incredible. I still get shivers from the thought.
Well done man. The skill of placing that cam to hold that fall is equal to the ability to climb that pitch. That granite looks so slippery for the layback.
Damn dude, that put me right in the headspace I occupy when leading trad. There's nothing quite like the thrill of pumped out exhaustion with a background of mild terror!
The haters coming out hard in the comments section! I know the feeling of being to pumped to hang on to anything and knowing you're going for a ride!! Awesome work!!! Great video!!
Well done!, Bellingham boi here, Squamish handed me many ass kickings in my day! That was one of them! The layback is pumpy AF! Lots of sends and greasy hands upon them walls of glory.
My thinking - hmmm, he’s not far from the anchor… must not be too bad of a whipper. With each step up… my hands started sweating myself and seeing how far the set places trad anchor was… you got balls of steel and climb like a boss. Great job, and surprisingly smooth fall lol hope you’re having a great year (in 2022!)
I love watching these rock climbers using their gear. They find a crack that is separating a 1000 ton slab of rock. And what do they do? Trust their lives in a little tool that essentially acts as a wedge between the two slabs!
Lived in Squamish many years, only ever took the trails. The last time descending I fell and started leaking all over the place. Cannot imagine climbing the faces, you that can and do are in incredible condition. Thank you for sharing this !
The sword pitch is so slick from all the years of acents I am glad I got the Split Pillar pitch on my lead. Thanks for the vid. Been a few years since I have been on this climb.
Holy cow, this brings back memories... I remember making a desperate lunge for those same chains at the top of the sword. Granted, Squamish 5.11 is pretty much equivalent to Index 5.9, but its still a scary and thin layback finger crack a long ways up.
Cool video. Those who partake in this sport must maintain there wits about them. I personally could not do it. My fear of falling would overtake me. :-)
@@g.e.b.8159 if it's in the Olympics it's a sport (and even if it isn't in the Olympics that doesn't mean it's not a sport) also have you never heard of football boxing mma hockey skiing or snowboarding all of which are sports and all of which can cause serious injuries or death
Stood at the base of el Cap and watched tiny little colored specs climbing waaaay up on the wall. Anyone who climbs rock walls has my absolute respect. Watching this completely reaffirmed my lifelong rule to live by. If I get over 8 feet off the ground it will be only in something made by Boeing or Douglas Aircraft, period.
The next pitch (that starts at those chains) is a mandatory A0 bolt ladder. Most people link the two pitches into one, so by any reasonable definition it's an A0 pitch anyway... but more importantly, who gives a shit?
All mountains are petrified giant wood stumps all minerals xome from these tree stumps you can confirm these, by watching hangman videos and also biblical trees on you tube
Honestly I am not 100 percent certain. I think it was a pile of tat. I do recall launching for it and making the grab. Back then there was no guide book for the route somebody just pointed it out from the parking lot and away we went with half dozen stem cams.
When I watch these climbing videos I always find it difficult to work out what angle the rock is at. I get it that photographers are always wanting to exaggerate the steepness. This video is obviously someone with an action camera so can't be that. However if you watch something like "Free Solo", there are hardly any camera angles showing the horizon. Every shot is tilted to show the section of wall he is on as vertical. It took me a while to realise it's not vertical, it is terrifyingly steep with many vertical sections and the slope probably just makes the fall more painful. If you look at shots from the bottom of El Cap, it looks like the first section is vertical and the upper wall is over hung by 20*. When in reality the bottom section is laid back 30* and the top cliffs laid back 10*... with many vertical and overhung parts. Sometimes it takes you watch the ropes and how they hang, or watch how the climber uses their shoulder and hips against the wall, suggesting there is some gravity holding them against the wall.
I suppoose the question is, what difference does it make? You are still going to die if you miss place your step and don't have a rope and to avoid falling off, you really will have to get down against the rock and climb up it as if it was vertical. It's just that anything i have climbed where I know I can take a foot hold and lean into the rock, lie against it and take my hands off is much more comfortable than to literally be hanging like a boulder problem. The slope is steep enough, if you even slide one foot, you won't stop. But it still gives you a little gravity on your side to keep you on the wall. Or am I miss reading this? Highest thing I climbed was a slate cliff of 70ft when I was 15. No ropes, no gear. Stupid, risky, especially as it was vertical and the upper slate holds where actually full of wet grass and mud which I didn't expect and could have cost my life. So I'm no expert.
I have a great challenge for you Paul. If you have a refridgerator or a smal moveable closet in your house, or something other you know is vertical, place it in the middle of a room, and use your phone to film it. Start holding the phone at floor level, and film straight towards the legs of the closet. Now start moving towards the closet while keeping the camera level with the floor, and filming the closet legs. Onc you are 9ft or so away stop moving. Now tilt your camera upwards so you can film the top edge of the closet. I am willing to bet you money that it is not going to look vertical as vertical, but more sloped, like some of the close photos of el capitan does. I think to truly appreciate how steep and vertical el cap mostly is, you need to go there and see for your self. When it comes to the filming of Free Solo, of course they are going to use dramatic camera angles and some trickery here and there for even more dramatic effect. But from my understanding, you seem to try to discredit, or gaslight, which I find a bit odd, and kind of disrespectful. If you want to try to gaslight someone, you best be sure you have outmanned the person in question with a greater feat. If not, it's just pointless and makes no sense. I say that because most pictures of any wall or near vertical hill, will not look vertical at all. If you watch cross country skiers skiing up an alpine slope, you will get what I am saying. On camera it looks like you could run up that hill. In real life it looks near vertical, and nere impossible to get up at all On a final note, you bring up boulder problems. El capitans boulder problem is probably on of the scariest ones out there, seeing as you have to either dynojump or literally fall off the wall controlled to hit the proper set up with your ninjakick.
@@whimseyOFC I wasn't "gaslighting". I just realised most footage delibrately makes it look more vertical than it is. As you point out, camera lens do odd things, both promoting and hiding the true angle. Even looking at the topography of el cap there is a significant, non 90* gradient. But I've stood above a 30* scree slope in the mountains and choose to back-track a mile to avoid going down it. I understand that anything laid back less than 45* is equivalent to vertical. I also understand there are a "lot" of unavoidable vertical parts and overhung parts. I'm not belittling the achievement. I'd make it up the initial 10 foot of 30* laid back and freeze. I know my limits. I lost the "balls" from my teenage years after I matured. The other thing that strikes me watching these videos and why I can't do it, is my feet tingle and twitch. I've felt it with heights before, the feeling you can't trust you limbs, but it's literally like they aren't under my control. They fiss and burn with nerves and crumple. While I would like to feel I could train myself to overcome the fear, I wonder if my hippocampus would agree at 47. That said. I suffer depression. Watching these videos challenges me. It challenges tweaking my anxiety forcing me to control it while my feet crawl and twitch. It also has given a "sport" option that I can do, in a gym setting. I can also include my 5 yo daughter and make it a bonding exercise. I'm going to take her to the local climbing gym, make it about her to start with, she badly needs confidence training and the ability to pause, relax and think things through. Surely a kids climbing bolder wall with a huge big mat like jumping on a bed is a perfect thing?. But I can have a go too. ;) Maybe I can use the descenders and "fall practice" to stop my feet buzzing. So apologies I sounded like I was belittling things or gaslighting.
@@whimseyOFC When I was about 16, as the tree climber I was I choose to ascend a "conker", horse chestnut tree in autumn. Jump on a main limb to shake dozens of conkers loose for my friends below to race around and collect. The main limb was about 30ft up and about 6 inches thick. The upper limb I had my hand around was 1 inch thick. The lower 6 inch limb broke away and fell. That left me hanging in free air 30ft up from a 1 inch thing branch which was bending excessively. I immediately shuffled to the root of that branch and started calling for help. The main tree trunk was 6 or 7 feet from me I couldn't reach it. I looked down and as this tree was on a building site, my landing zone turned out to be a broken pile of concrete blocks and bricks. I noticed in response to my calling "Help!", my "friends" had all got on their bikes and fled. At first I paniced, cried out for help, felt like wetting myself. But it quickly became apparent, nobody could help me, my grip would not hold long enough. I looked at the main trunk, a sinking feeling as I'd never tried anything like it before, but if I could swing to it, I could catch it with my legs, I'd be practically upside down, but, ... it was my only choice. I made that swing. I grabbed the trunk between my legs, wrapped it tight, moved my hands and slowly, inch by inch rotated around it to be above it. You can imagine the sigh of relief. Dropped back down out of the tree was easy. I thought it was only in emergencies I would understand that level of thought, decision and commitment to implementation, but I took up paragliding and feel I've saved my life repeatedly many times now :) I hope I continue to do so. Live, love, hope or heal.
What is going on with the extra carabiner you have on the pro at 1:48? It looks like a double length sling over a horn left of the arete, which makes sense. Did you have both of them racked on the double-length, then decided to leave the extra when you looped the horn as a natural anchor? Thanks, just curious.
W Mashburn It is a 60 cm sling over a horn. Yes two biners on the sling when racked to double as a draw when needed, which usually just stay on the sling after being used on a horn unless a shortage of biners is anticipated.
Bret Shandro in the cases of skydivers surviving huge falls, the parachute opens enough to slow the fall. In this case the climber would die 100 %. It is a straight free fall of a couple hundred feet.
A woman survived a free fall from a disibtegrating passenger jet at 33000 feet, so yeah, you can survive falls that are considered 100 percent lethal. However, the chances are so slim that you still call it a 100 percent fatal fall.
Heheh, you must be French Canadian? 😂 Seriously, great rock and footage. I couldn’t lead this and if I could I would totally grab the chain! (I literally am 25% French Canadian)
Haha, you did the same thing I did. You put your camera on the top of your helmet instead of the side, so it bangs against the rocks when you climb too. Still I like that angle better then on the side.
OK that was weird. When the video first started I thought that was an almost horizontal ledge that you were traversing. Only when you started climbing did I realise it was actually a vertical crack. Haha :D
Weirdly, I can jump out of a plane but climbing definitely scares the sh.. out of me. And these anchors that you just slip into the rock, it's just voodoo lol. How is that possible that these things stay in place while saving your falling ass ? Nah, man. That's too much, for me 😂
Does that not scare the shit out of you when it first lets go? What happens when you fall and say hurt your arm, its not broken but hurts really bad, and your hanging up side down. What do you do? Do you have a phone? is someone on the ground watching and if so how would they know if your hurt seriously? Great video, but scary . You would never catch me up there, no way!.
Surprised you didn't yell for rock - cause I would have shit down my pants, especially being Trad. Sort of respect you grabbing the chain as that was some odd looking holds and toes 🤣 and again, knowing it's Trad under you
All set. I’ve climbed a few times and was scared the entire time. I totally enjoyed climbing up the “side” anchoring in and repelling, but for some reason, trying to climb the face made my knees knock every time.
What's with all the complaining about grabbing the chain anchor? It's the end of the pitch, there is no stance. It's a hanging belay. Pretty sure that's the way everybody does it. And yes, I have climbed the route (5-1/2 hours with the Apron Strings/Cruel Shoes start and one 45 meter rope, maybe 27 years ago). Nice video, I totally understand falling there. It's pumpy for sure. Next pitch, even more strenuous.
Some of the people commenting below are not people I would ever want to meet. They are embarrassingly rude and must be unhappy with their situation in life. My advice? Go to Squamish, find out how awesome this climb is (and many, many other lines), and if you're still a grumpy know-it-all, post your own video to show us how you think it should be done.
@@Jonathan-wj6uh sounds like all you do in life is troll
Clearly a *real* climber would just glue themselves to the wall to belay. *eyeroll*
Thanks for the comment. That looks like a beautiful and super tough line. So many walls, so little time....
amen
@@bman6065 stop snowflakeing, snowflake
Peace!
Did some beginner climbing with Boy Scouts this year. It was the hardest thing I've ever done. Anyone who climbs anything anyway is a stud in my book.
Balls of steel... skill and courage man.....I can have all the chains in the hardware store and still won't be able to do what you guys do...kudos to you....
Cool, you got to do it all over again. Mike Barter you're full of it. There was so a guidebook, a yellow covered paperback with sweet hand drawn topos. I don't remember chains but I do remember the two pitches of old fuzzy marine rope used to hand over hand it past the rivet ladder -- I imagined this as the cord that dangled the Sword of Damocles, ready to break at any moment.
Hola
He believes that wall doesn't peel off at all? Or he may think "It's also my fate."...
I would've been screaming like a little baby
My hands are sweating!!! Nice try!!
"It upsets me that he went through that"
Bugger...he says,lol. Holy shit, i bet that was fun..not,lol..In real time it would be to fast to make out anything:/
that pitch looks pretty impressive..but it has no sense to grab the chain..it will A0 all the wall...still a good climb
I wish I was this fit, but if I was, I would not have grabbed for the bolt. I would have tried to climb it clean. But alas I am not this fit. Congratulations on your fitness and the effort you put into this venture it is admirable.
First why did you grab the chains. That's wrong. Second don't say "they oiled them" because nobody would do that.
Shawn Smiley that pitch ends with an A0 bolt ladder. People oil chains all the time, it extends the life of the chains...
Daaamn bro, you must have been gripped out of your mind not even being able to hang on the anchor...and fuck the people talking crap about grabbing the chains...if you can reach'em after a heinous layback, fair game.
haha climb this pitch then comment on grabbing the chains
People that just sport climb Don't understand what comes into play when you are trad climbing a multi pitch like that... you can't risk as much, ethics can go f*** themselves
I thought you did great!
Chains are meant to be grabbed. And yes, I have done this pitch.
@@tallasianguy42 footy or it didn’t happen.
@@Nuttyirishman85 it's funny, we were about to bring our film crew and stylists out and post some sick vids to the 'Gram but then we realized it was 2004.
I have an 8 foot ladder. Anything out of my reach with that stays just as it is.
ROFL dude
My feet were tingling while I was watching this. I don't see the appeal.
Nicholas Gregoire You are fortunate. When I watch the MOST extreme freestyle climbing, my feet feel like they being beaten by thick, bamboo sticks. I kid you not!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👏✊
Ha, my first lead of the sword almost ended exactly like this. I got my whole arm through the chains but I was so drained from that last layback and the chains were so slick that I just barely managed to get my personal anchor onto the chains before my arm gave way. I think they're perma-oily because everyone ends up grabbing them with sweaty hands.
Chains have to be oiled or they'll rust
Or just get a stainless steel chain...
My memory of the belay was clicking into the bolts (no chains 40 years ago) and getting settled into my belay seat. Then I looked around. Oh my God! What a view. I had been so focused on climbing for the last 300 feet that I had no idea where I was. It was incredible. I still get shivers from the thought.
Well done man. The skill of placing that cam to hold that fall is equal to the ability to climb that pitch. That granite looks so slippery for the layback.
granite never slippery.....
@@TeamFortressTwoGaming you are. probably right....
ay dude its been 10 years how u been
People talking smack in the comment section about your climbing while they're on their desk. Thanks for the vid!
At least I've climbed my desk successfully.
1:44 That's what she said.
The fear in your breath adds a nice touch ;)
lol "i think someone oiled them", has to suck to fall holding the chains xD glad to see you were fine
wow.... the gear held. Epic gear placements :p :)
epic? perfect cams.
wish it wasnt slow mode
well DemolitionPaintball you are in luck...
go to 27:00 in this --> Climbing the Grand Wall (5.11a) in Squamish, BC (GoPro helmet cam)
28:00
@@dancer1 Yet still ruined it with captions.
@@dreads9536 yeah like wtf he doesn’t know how to make a vid
Damn dude, that put me right in the headspace I occupy when leading trad. There's nothing quite like the thrill of pumped out exhaustion with a background of mild terror!
The haters coming out hard in the comments section! I know the feeling of being to pumped to hang on to anything and knowing you're going for a ride!! Awesome work!!! Great video!!
fuck dude this looks nuts. Props for filming in BC, some of the best spots in the world! the views are always incredible
3 seconds in and my palms are pouring sweat. I know the sharp end of the rope all too well. Terrific route, thx for sharing. 👏👏👏
damn chain oilers
+Henry L
What is a chain oiler?
People that put oil on the chain so the cord doesn-t get burnt
Got to love them master cams
Chain oilers are out to get chain grabbers, beware!
that pitch looks so sick, i hope i can make it out to squamish some day
Awesome climb, good fall. Beautiful rock quality.Thanks
Weeee! Let's see it in regular motion too!
Well done!, Bellingham boi here, Squamish handed me many ass kickings in my day! That was one of them! The layback is pumpy AF! Lots of sends and greasy hands upon them walls of glory.
Man I wish I had the means to get out and do this! Looks like indoor is my only option lol nice climb Bret
My thinking - hmmm, he’s not far from the anchor… must not be too bad of a whipper. With each step up… my hands started sweating myself and seeing how far the set places trad anchor was… you got balls of steel and climb like a boss. Great job, and surprisingly smooth fall lol hope you’re having a great year (in 2022!)
I think i shit myself watching this
I love watching these rock climbers using their gear. They find a crack that is separating a 1000 ton slab of rock. And what do they do? Trust their lives in a little tool that essentially acts as a wedge between the two slabs!
Not one but 8!
Lived in Squamish many years, only ever took the trails. The last time descending I fell and started leaking all over the place. Cannot imagine climbing the faces, you that can and do are in incredible condition. Thank you for sharing this !
Leaking? Shit?
@@seanieizcool Yes, shit, red shit all over the fucking place.
@@TheCanadianBubba oh you were bleeding. My bad lol.
Don't let the jam out
Call me crazy but the highest off the ground I want to go is on the back of my mule. 😏 Good luck ya'll, no offense intended.
The sword pitch is so slick from all the years of acents I am glad I got the Split Pillar pitch on my lead. Thanks for the vid. Been a few years since I have been on this climb.
Holy cow, this brings back memories... I remember making a desperate lunge for those same chains at the top of the sword. Granted, Squamish 5.11 is pretty much equivalent to Index 5.9, but its still a scary and thin layback finger crack a long ways up.
Cool video. Those who partake in this sport must maintain there wits about them. I personally could not do it. My fear of falling would overtake me. :-)
It's not a sport. A real sport won't put your life in jeopardy.
@@g.e.b.8159 Football isn't a sport then cause one wrong fall and your braindead
@@g.e.b.8159 if it's in the Olympics it's a sport (and even if it isn't in the Olympics that doesn't mean it's not a sport) also have you never heard of football boxing mma hockey skiing or snowboarding all of which are sports and all of which can cause serious injuries or death
@@g.e.b.8159 ever heard of extreme sports? There’s a shit ton of them at this point. Google it.
Stood at the base of el Cap and watched tiny little colored specs climbing waaaay up on the wall. Anyone who climbs rock walls has my absolute respect.
Watching this completely reaffirmed my lifelong rule to live by. If I get over 8 feet off the ground it will be only in something made by Boeing or Douglas Aircraft, period.
The next pitch (that starts at those chains) is a mandatory A0 bolt ladder. Most people link the two pitches into one, so by any reasonable definition it's an A0 pitch anyway... but more importantly, who gives a shit?
Dude that layback looks heinous. If I'm forced to layback something, I'm definitely not having a good time 🤣
All mountains are petrified giant wood stumps all minerals xome from these tree stumps you can confirm these, by watching hangman videos and also biblical trees on you tube
Wonder how often climbers wish they were safely on the ground....terrifying
MAN! What happened when u grabbed the belay chain, were u just so pumped? or something else? Fantastic video felt like i was there!
thats rad, in contrast we read every comment on MP and sewed the climb up with flexible cams... and at the end of the day feel adventurous
Wow. Thats so exposed. Good placing of the Friends
Honestly I am not 100 percent certain. I think it was a pile of tat. I do recall launching for it and making the grab. Back then there was no guide book for the route somebody just pointed it out from the parking lot and away we went with half dozen stem cams.
Wow... somebody MUST have oiled those things
I have some serious respect for rock climbers. You hands and callouses are comparable to the points on my ice tools! haha
When I watch these climbing videos I always find it difficult to work out what angle the rock is at. I get it that photographers are always wanting to exaggerate the steepness. This video is obviously someone with an action camera so can't be that. However if you watch something like "Free Solo", there are hardly any camera angles showing the horizon. Every shot is tilted to show the section of wall he is on as vertical. It took me a while to realise it's not vertical, it is terrifyingly steep with many vertical sections and the slope probably just makes the fall more painful.
If you look at shots from the bottom of El Cap, it looks like the first section is vertical and the upper wall is over hung by 20*. When in reality the bottom section is laid back 30* and the top cliffs laid back 10*... with many vertical and overhung parts.
Sometimes it takes you watch the ropes and how they hang, or watch how the climber uses their shoulder and hips against the wall, suggesting there is some gravity holding them against the wall.
I suppoose the question is, what difference does it make? You are still going to die if you miss place your step and don't have a rope and to avoid falling off, you really will have to get down against the rock and climb up it as if it was vertical. It's just that anything i have climbed where I know I can take a foot hold and lean into the rock, lie against it and take my hands off is much more comfortable than to literally be hanging like a boulder problem. The slope is steep enough, if you even slide one foot, you won't stop. But it still gives you a little gravity on your side to keep you on the wall.
Or am I miss reading this?
Highest thing I climbed was a slate cliff of 70ft when I was 15. No ropes, no gear. Stupid, risky, especially as it was vertical and the upper slate holds where actually full of wet grass and mud which I didn't expect and could have cost my life. So I'm no expert.
I have a great challenge for you Paul. If you have a refridgerator or a smal moveable closet in your house, or something other you know is vertical, place it in the middle of a room, and use your phone to film it. Start holding the phone at floor level, and film straight towards the legs of the closet. Now start moving towards the closet while keeping the camera level with the floor, and filming the closet legs. Onc you are 9ft or so away stop moving. Now tilt your camera upwards so you can film the top edge of the closet. I am willing to bet you money that it is not going to look vertical as vertical, but more sloped, like some of the close photos of el capitan does. I think to truly appreciate how steep and vertical el cap mostly is, you need to go there and see for your self.
When it comes to the filming of Free Solo, of course they are going to use dramatic camera angles and some trickery here and there for even more dramatic effect. But from my understanding, you seem to try to discredit, or gaslight, which I find a bit odd, and kind of disrespectful. If you want to try to gaslight someone, you best be sure you have outmanned the person in question with a greater feat. If not, it's just pointless and makes no sense. I say that because most pictures of any wall or near vertical hill, will not look vertical at all. If you watch cross country skiers skiing up an alpine slope, you will get what I am saying. On camera it looks like you could run up that hill. In real life it looks near vertical, and nere impossible to get up at all
On a final note, you bring up boulder problems. El capitans boulder problem is probably on of the scariest ones out there, seeing as you have to either dynojump or literally fall off the wall controlled to hit the proper set up with your ninjakick.
Also, lense must be wide angle for it to have the most dramatic effect when filming the closet
@@whimseyOFC I wasn't "gaslighting". I just realised most footage delibrately makes it look more vertical than it is. As you point out, camera lens do odd things, both promoting and hiding the true angle. Even looking at the topography of el cap there is a significant, non 90* gradient. But I've stood above a 30* scree slope in the mountains and choose to back-track a mile to avoid going down it. I understand that anything laid back less than 45* is equivalent to vertical. I also understand there are a "lot" of unavoidable vertical parts and overhung parts. I'm not belittling the achievement. I'd make it up the initial 10 foot of 30* laid back and freeze. I know my limits. I lost the "balls" from my teenage years after I matured. The other thing that strikes me watching these videos and why I can't do it, is my feet tingle and twitch. I've felt it with heights before, the feeling you can't trust you limbs, but it's literally like they aren't under my control. They fiss and burn with nerves and crumple. While I would like to feel I could train myself to overcome the fear, I wonder if my hippocampus would agree at 47.
That said. I suffer depression. Watching these videos challenges me. It challenges tweaking my anxiety forcing me to control it while my feet crawl and twitch. It also has given a "sport" option that I can do, in a gym setting. I can also include my 5 yo daughter and make it a bonding exercise. I'm going to take her to the local climbing gym, make it about her to start with, she badly needs confidence training and the ability to pause, relax and think things through. Surely a kids climbing bolder wall with a huge big mat like jumping on a bed is a perfect thing?. But I can have a go too. ;) Maybe I can use the descenders and "fall practice" to stop my feet buzzing.
So apologies I sounded like I was belittling things or gaslighting.
@@whimseyOFC When I was about 16, as the tree climber I was I choose to ascend a "conker", horse chestnut tree in autumn. Jump on a main limb to shake dozens of conkers loose for my friends below to race around and collect. The main limb was about 30ft up and about 6 inches thick. The upper limb I had my hand around was 1 inch thick.
The lower 6 inch limb broke away and fell. That left me hanging in free air 30ft up from a 1 inch thing branch which was bending excessively. I immediately shuffled to the root of that branch and started calling for help. The main tree trunk was 6 or 7 feet from me I couldn't reach it. I looked down and as this tree was on a building site, my landing zone turned out to be a broken pile of concrete blocks and bricks. I noticed in response to my calling "Help!", my "friends" had all got on their bikes and fled. At first I paniced, cried out for help, felt like wetting myself. But it quickly became apparent, nobody could help me, my grip would not hold long enough. I looked at the main trunk, a sinking feeling as I'd never tried anything like it before, but if I could swing to it, I could catch it with my legs, I'd be practically upside down, but, ... it was my only choice.
I made that swing. I grabbed the trunk between my legs, wrapped it tight, moved my hands and slowly, inch by inch rotated around it to be above it.
You can imagine the sigh of relief. Dropped back down out of the tree was easy.
I thought it was only in emergencies I would understand that level of thought, decision and commitment to implementation, but I took up paragliding and feel I've saved my life repeatedly many times now :) I hope I continue to do so.
Live, love, hope or heal.
What is going on with the extra carabiner you have on the pro at 1:48? It looks like a double length sling over a horn left of the arete, which makes sense. Did you have both of them racked on the double-length, then decided to leave the extra when you looped the horn as a natural anchor? Thanks, just curious.
W Mashburn It is a 60 cm sling over a horn. Yes two biners on the sling when racked to double as a draw when needed, which usually just stay on the sling after being used on a horn unless a shortage of biners is anticipated.
Kept thinking this was a "ground fall" which is unsurvivable at that height...
There are survivals of skydiving accidents when the parachutes doesn't open... I would say that it is highly unlikely instead of unsurvivable.
Bret Shandro Ah yes very true, pardon my choice of words.
Bret Shandro in the cases of skydivers surviving huge falls, the parachute opens enough to slow the fall. In this case the climber would die 100 %. It is a straight free fall of a couple hundred feet.
A woman survived a free fall from a disibtegrating passenger jet at 33000 feet, so yeah, you can survive falls that are considered 100 percent lethal. However, the chances are so slim that you still call it a 100 percent fatal fall.
Heheh, you must be French Canadian? 😂
Seriously, great rock and footage. I couldn’t lead this and if I could I would totally grab the chain! (I literally am 25% French Canadian)
Heart stopping. Glad you're okay!
Not as hard as my grasp of elementary algebra
wow cool video. i´m new into clean climbing and i couldnt believe that a small cam like that could take a fall of this size :)
It's not that small
Bret Shandro, You are my hero xxx
did that pitch 25 years ago just relived the adventure
thats some beautiful granite
Haha, you did the same thing I did. You put your camera on the top of your helmet instead of the side, so it bangs against the rocks when you climb too. Still I like that angle better then on the side.
good cam placements.
Amazing but scary
ya i drove by there a few times
OK that was weird. When the video first started I thought that was an almost horizontal ledge that you were traversing. Only when you started climbing did I realise it was actually a vertical crack. Haha :D
Weirdly, I can jump out of a plane but climbing definitely scares the sh.. out of me. And these anchors that you just slip into the rock, it's just voodoo lol. How is that possible that these things stay in place while saving your falling ass ? Nah, man. That's too much, for me 😂
Holy cow. So intense.
Time for a new hobby
Someone oiled them 😂
That rope is fked
Does that not scare the shit out of you when it first lets go? What happens when you fall and say hurt your arm, its not broken but hurts really bad, and your hanging up side down. What do you do? Do you have a phone? is someone on the ground watching and if so how would they know if your hurt seriously? Great video, but scary . You would never catch me up there, no way!.
Some climbs aren’t made to top out and walk off, I too have hung on the last bolt, no big deal, it’s like ringing the bell at the gym. Lol
Surprised you didn't yell for rock - cause I would have shit down my pants, especially being Trad. Sort of respect you grabbing the chain as that was some odd looking holds and toes 🤣 and again, knowing it's Trad under you
Hehe le French free 🇫🇷
I hate that laying back stuff. You tend to push too hard with the feet, making your fingers more tired than you would otherwise be.
All set. I’ve climbed a few times and was scared the entire time. I totally enjoyed climbing up the “side” anchoring in and repelling, but for some reason, trying to climb the face made my knees knock every time.
Your breathing had me nervous AF then you slipoed - NOOOOOOOO!
how do u get down
Much respect but I can't believe people do this. Views are great but damn
If you're not free solo'ing, are you really climbing? lol jk man, I can't imagine having the balls to do something like this.
If he was free soloist he be dead ,I see why he fell with balls that big must be hard yo climb that high with them ,hahahahaha👍
i could not have put in poorer protection than before i learned to wipe my own but. But luv as always if that's your thing.
Jesus that swimming laybac looks horrible
how the hell would you get your fingers in then? plus gloves slip. you build natural callouses. climbing gloves, lmao
Ive jumped off a few cliffs before but climbing that. Not for me cool vid tho.👍🏻
so you had to climb it again, but with an oiled hand? sick vid buddy, iv never had a pop at anythin that high, the view looked epic!
Nice send!
Fuck that shit I'm to scared climbing into my bed is as far as I go
Ngl I thought this would be one of the videos about a pice that blew
Gee I think I put in some of the piton on scars on that one back in 84
I like falls in slow motion better, regular speed goes by too fast you can't even tell what the hell is going on.
yeh good work not to scream like death was coming ! calm of mind and balls of size !
How the heck does Spider-Man make it look easy
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snap man what went wrong? did your hand slipp off of the chain?
It's all about endurance because his breathing so hard