I highly recommend the application of anti-seize on all threads .This will assist with future dismantling for repairs and maintenance. Thanks for sharing your tips and hints. 73 de ZL1PO
You guys are awesome! That is a great antenna and I have had one for several years. I may have to do the "enhancements" on my next one. Thanks for the great video. 73 to all of you!
Awesome video! I'm getting ready to install a Diamond X-300 and will now be performing some of the enhancements you were gracious enough to share with the rest of us. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and for taking the time and effort to create such an informative video. 73's.
Great Video!! I'm in the process of putting up two towers one with a GP-6 on one and CA-712EFC on the other one. Sure happy I saw this video before installing the antennas.
I Remember watching this video Right when i was fixing to put up my new Comet GP-9N & I ended up doing two out of the three mods to mine before i put it up n the Air... I Used 1.5in marine Grade Heat Shrink & i also used the Krylon Clear Coat 2 or maybe 3 Coats so far it works Great Glad i found your Video When i Did To..lol. !Hard To Beat The Comet GP-9N or The GP-6 But The Diamond X510HD orX30A or the X50 would be the only other vertical VHF/UHF i would Ever Consider..Well That & Some Really Good Coax & Connectors !
I just purchased and put together a Diamond X510HDM, which looks very similar to what you have! I’m going to look into making similar modifications before I install it. Had already planned on the heat shrink, but was very glad I watched this before installing it!!! I’m not installing on a high tower, but on a pole about 25 feet in the air. Live on a farm with lots of wind. So glad I can make these changes before installing & make it last longer! Thank You soooo much!!! Btw, just south of you down here in Cumberland County, TN! 73!
A couple of thoughts on the video: Unless you have a custom tool (that I'd like to see) for attaching the coax after the antenna is assembled, I would have put the coax through the mounting base, screwed it to the antenna, then assembled the antenna mounting base to the antenna. You sure don't want to be doing that fiddly assembly up on the tower. It is much easier to do that in the shop. You referenced 10 mm and 8 mm screws. Those are the WRENCH sizes for those screws. It would have been good if you had given actual metric sizes (diameter and thread) for those who want to do a similar upgrade. The screws without heads are Allen screws which you tighten with an Allen Wrench. That is too simple. There is also a size associated with the Allen Wrench. When you said the gentleman had a kit for doing this job, I though you were going to provide a link of where we could buy kit of nuts, screws, washers, drills (3 sizes), and the tap to do this job, or at least a parts list and source. I would very much like to know where to obtain the parts, including the heat shrink tubing, in small quantities for a reasonable price. Lastly, you showed spraying the clear coat on as the last step but in the video it shows the spraying being done before the heat shrink is applied. Is there any reason for doing one before the other? I would wonder how well the clear coat would adhere, long term, over the heat shrink as heat shrink has that type of surface that glue and paint don't stick to well.
Very nice video. I have a Comet CX-333 tri band (144, 220, 440) antenna that has been up at two different locations for about 25 years. When I moved it a few years ago I noticed the the paint seemed pitted so I'm planning to take it down and recoat it. However, I don't know what paint I can use that doesn't contain any metal based pigment. Also, when I had it down, I didn't notice that bolt holding the antenna into the base had loosened or signs the antenna had wobbled in the base. I will check that when I get it down this summer.
GP6 is pretty much all i use other than the gp9 :D i have mine sprayed with rattle-can polyeurethane, it's been up for yonks... (spray it AFTER it's put together).... my only issue is that i have lost the radials in the move and i have no idea where they are
The kit he has includes: M6x8 hex head bolts (factory size style for antenna to support tube) M6x8 set screw (he didn't use these in this video) M6x20 set screw (these are the long ones he used with the nut for locking) M6 lock washer M6 nut M6 tap 5MM drill (for tap) I'd also add a few M3x3 set screws for connecting the elements together. The heat shrink he used was 28mm, but as you could see, it was a tight fit pre-shrink. I'd go with 30 or 40mm (1.25 or 1.5 inch) heat shrink, Double wall adhesive lined.
Great video! Could you ask AC4DM how we would approach replacing or fixing bent 70cm radials on a GP-15? I picked up one used recently with this problem and I was trying to figure out if I can purchase replacement radials somewhere or if I can make them in my work shop?
Wondering if anyone can answer a question for me on the GP6? The instructions say it's rated for 200W SSB. How many watts can you put to it when transmitting in FM mode? (2M specifically)
Hello guys, thanks for this very useful video. A question, what type of Kraylon did you use in the antenna? There is so much different types. Thanks again, 73...
Amazon, 30 or 40mm adhesive lined. They used 28mm, but going a little larger will make it much easier to put on. It can shrink to 50% (or more) of its diameter, so it's not a big deal to oversize some. 4 ft long is a little over $7. Local commercial electrical supply houses may also have it in stock.
I would have used brass rivnuts and brass set screws, and before inserting the set screws, I would have applied battery grease to prevent moisture from entering the aluminum tube. I would have also covered the end tube with heat shrink tubing over the coax, and, as mentioned, coated the connectors, etc., with battery terminal grease. This way, moisture will never reach the connector and the coax.
I don't like using tape or shrink on joints; it looks awful visually. The connection is waterproof as it is, but I do use a little Vaseline on the screw connection and then cinch it up. Job done.
Too much work Cut down both sides with thin grinder disc and use a jubilee clip to secure it then glue both the clip and the bolt in place takes 5 mins
Please stop saying drill bit. It's called a drill, I used to work for NY twist drill many, many decades ago. A mini drill press is using drills. Other than that, great video, narration and audio.
I made cuts in my diamond and comet mounting selves. I use a hose clamp to hold the antenna rather than the wobbly bolt.
What, no locktite? 😆
This is such a great video. Thanks for sharing! I love watching people intelligently void their warranties!
I just did this to my GP-6 also. Later I will do my GP-9 when I have to lower it for some reason.
I highly recommend the application of anti-seize on all threads .This will assist with future dismantling for repairs and maintenance. Thanks for sharing your tips and hints. 73 de ZL1PO
You guys are awesome! That is a great antenna and I have had one for several years. I may have to do the "enhancements" on my next one. Thanks for the great video. 73 to all of you!
Awesome video! I'm getting ready to install a Diamond X-300 and will now be performing some of the enhancements you were gracious enough to share with the rest of us. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and for taking the time and effort to create such an informative video. 73's.
I have a GP-3 that needs to have these enhancements. Great video! K4MNF
Nicely done.
Though I believe that moving the top mounting bracket up would give a more robust support.
73
Great Video!! I'm in the process of putting up two towers one with a GP-6 on one and CA-712EFC on the other one. Sure happy I saw this video before installing the antennas.
I Remember watching this video Right when i was fixing to put up my new Comet GP-9N & I ended up doing two out of the three mods to mine before i put it up n the Air... I Used 1.5in marine Grade Heat Shrink & i also used the Krylon Clear Coat 2 or maybe 3 Coats so far it works Great Glad i found your Video When i Did To..lol. !Hard To Beat The Comet GP-9N or The GP-6 But The Diamond X510HD orX30A or the X50 would be the only other vertical VHF/UHF i would Ever Consider..Well That & Some Really Good Coax & Connectors !
Have a GP-9 on way. Going to do similar
I just purchased and put together a Diamond X510HDM, which looks very similar to what you have! I’m going to look into making similar modifications before I install it. Had already planned on the heat shrink, but was very glad I watched this before installing it!!! I’m not installing on a high tower, but on a pole about 25 feet in the air. Live on a farm with lots of wind. So glad I can make these changes before installing & make it last longer! Thank You soooo much!!! Btw, just south of you down here in Cumberland County, TN! 73!
I bought a few of those antennas that had damaged fiberglass and repaired it with glass mat. They are worth repairing.
A couple of thoughts on the video: Unless you have a custom tool (that I'd like to see) for attaching the coax after the antenna is assembled, I would have put the coax through the mounting base, screwed it to the antenna, then assembled the antenna mounting base to the antenna. You sure don't want to be doing that fiddly assembly up on the tower. It is much easier to do that in the shop.
You referenced 10 mm and 8 mm screws. Those are the WRENCH sizes for those screws. It would have been good if you had given actual metric sizes (diameter and thread) for those who want to do a similar upgrade. The screws without heads are Allen screws which you tighten with an Allen Wrench. That is too simple. There is also a size associated with the Allen Wrench.
When you said the gentleman had a kit for doing this job, I though you were going to provide a link of where we could buy kit of nuts, screws, washers, drills (3 sizes), and the tap to do this job, or at least a parts list and source. I would very much like to know where to obtain the parts, including the heat shrink tubing, in small quantities for a reasonable price.
Lastly, you showed spraying the clear coat on as the last step but in the video it shows the spraying being done before the heat shrink is applied. Is there any reason for doing one before the other? I would wonder how well the clear coat would adhere, long term, over the heat shrink as heat shrink has that type of surface that glue and paint don't stick to well.
Very nice video. I have a Comet CX-333 tri band (144, 220, 440) antenna that has been up at two different locations for about 25 years. When I moved it a few years ago I noticed the the paint seemed pitted so I'm planning to take it down and recoat it. However, I don't know what paint I can use that doesn't contain any metal based pigment.
Also, when I had it down, I didn't notice that bolt holding the antenna into the base had loosened or signs the antenna had wobbled in the base. I will check that when I get it down this summer.
GP6 is pretty much all i use other than the gp9 :D i have mine sprayed with rattle-can polyeurethane, it's been up for yonks... (spray it AFTER it's put together).... my only issue is that i have lost the radials in the move and i have no idea where they are
Has the club considered offering a single antenna kit??
The kit he has includes:
M6x8 hex head bolts (factory size style for antenna to support tube)
M6x8 set screw (he didn't use these in this video)
M6x20 set screw (these are the long ones he used with the nut for locking)
M6 lock washer
M6 nut
M6 tap
5MM drill (for tap)
I'd also add a few M3x3 set screws for connecting the elements together.
The heat shrink he used was 28mm, but as you could see, it was a tight fit pre-shrink. I'd go with 30 or 40mm (1.25 or 1.5 inch) heat shrink, Double wall adhesive lined.
Where is a good place to get the heat shrink tubing? Is there a trick to google this size marine grade tubing?
Link for that hest shrink by chance?
Would the kit work for CX-333 tri-band antenna? Also, what about tower standoffs? Thank you for your work!
Great video! Could you ask AC4DM how we would approach replacing or fixing bent 70cm radials on a GP-15? I picked up one used recently with this problem and I was trying to figure out if I can purchase replacement radials somewhere or if I can make them in my work shop?
I think the underrated caps should be upgraded then it will have a much better power rating.
yeah, at least 10kV rated ones, 500V is a joke
I am putting up 17-foot 2M 40cm antenna I would like to paint so it is less visual. Can I use rust oleum paint? WQ9V
Wondering if anyone can answer a question for me on the GP6? The instructions say it's rated for 200W SSB. How many watts can you put to it when transmitting in FM mode? (2M specifically)
What size heat shrink tube was that ?
Hello guys, thanks for this very useful video. A question, what type of Kraylon did you use in the antenna? There is so much different types. Thanks again, 73...
Krylon Clear. Thanks for watching!
I would like to know where can I get some heat shrink that big?
Me too.
Amazon, 30 or 40mm adhesive lined. They used 28mm, but going a little larger will make it much easier to put on. It can shrink to 50% (or more) of its diameter, so it's not a big deal to oversize some. 4 ft long is a little over $7.
Local commercial electrical supply houses may also have it in stock.
@@kg4gav Tnx for the info.
So did I notice you cleared it before you put on the heat shrink? Or after?
I noticed the same thing. He showed doing the clear spray prior to the heat shrink, which was opposite the order demonstrated in the video.
Minus 5 points: No thread lock used on those screws.
I would have used brass rivnuts and brass set screws, and before inserting the set screws, I would have applied battery grease to prevent moisture from entering the aluminum tube. I would have also covered the end tube with heat shrink tubing over the coax, and, as mentioned, coated the connectors, etc., with battery terminal grease. This way, moisture will never reach the connector and the coax.
Then you have to dismantle it all to put the co-ax on !
I don't like using tape or shrink on joints; it looks awful visually. The connection is waterproof as it is, but I do use a little Vaseline on the screw connection and then cinch it up. Job done.
Too much work Cut down both sides with thin grinder disc and use a jubilee clip to secure it then glue both the clip and the bolt in place takes 5 mins
What part are you talking about doing this to? Sorry just do not understand
The part that grips antenna then it gets secured to a pole . @@kb9liq
Weird.....?
No, " V " block to keep the tubing centered ?
Everything but ?
😳
Hillbillies !
😂🤣😂
Please stop saying drill bit. It's called a drill, I used to work for NY twist drill many, many decades ago. A mini drill press is using drills. Other than that, great video, narration and audio.
Get your hands out your pockets