Onther good one is if you are using a rope around a big bolder that has a deep undercut and sharp is to place a big Hex under it and thread the rope through that way it doesn’t get wedged underneath I have used this many times ❤
A helmet and a trash bag/sandwich bag makes an ideal food bowl. A small razorblade can be taped to the inside of an old school helmet. 1mm/2mm accessory cord can be prewrapped around a haul loop for cutting the rope in emergencies. I try to keep an energy gel in my chalkbag pocket because i tend to get really hungry if things don't go to plan. In really interesting circumstances nuts and gear can be daisy chained together to add an extra 3-4 meters of reach to a setup. Oh, and in lieu of a second prussic you can use a belay plate in guide mode to ascend a rope, and in lieu of yet another prussic you can use the rope itself as a second prussic if you've forgotten them entirely.
goos stuff Jez, one of my mantras, "don't carry anything you cant use' - like making a bandolier - use a proper sling. Re other improvs, when arriving at top of pitch and running out of gear remember you have krabs for racking wires, cams etc. Slings on hexes/cams (dmm) can be threads or used as extenders, friction hitchs, that sort of thing, Look at everything on your harness and make a plan. Learn how to do a body belay and when it's appropriate. I leant to abseil via classic and sling and krab - good old troll superblue more comfy than 6mm dyneema :-)
troll supertape (blue of course), shame it died out. If circumstance forced you to throw a sling over a sharp edged boulder to belay, would you want extra skinny dynema or a nice thick supertape blue? I used to love their harnesses back in the day (used to work in myTroll RAT) they invented the sit-harness, the belay loop, the sews/stitched sling and much more we take for granted! Sadly after the original founders retired, Troll is only a shadow of its former glory and now make only Tshirts, trousers etc. At least UK still has DMM manufacturing here, let's support them.
My nut key bungee is the only non-rated/useless thing I carry, except an accessory ‘biner on my shoes that stays with my bag... I just like the bungee - then I don’t have to worry about dropping it or not being able to reach the gear. I did try cord once... just more faff. Prusik on the chalk bag anyway, and usually 3 on my harness (because often friends don’t have one or two). Very neat trick with the locking Italian hitch - I always forget to play with it when I see it... no excuses now!
Had a play with that locking Italian today. Clipping the climbing strand is the key there... had a go just through the loop and it wasn’t reliable. Did have a go around both parallel strands, right at the top, and that doesn’t work either. Releasing under load though, just with 5kg on there it was pretty much impossible to do without any aid!
I've seen the sling from a dmm torque nut extended from the top and bottom to use as an extender on a nut when my climbing partner had run out of slings. Worked like a dream.
Hi. I have a question. This comes from years back when I was taught to use two half hitches instead of the mule to tie off. I find Two half hitches easier to teach, easier to learn, faster to tie, and easier to untie. Can you help me understand why the tied off mule is now the norm? Thanks!
I think tying two overhand knot loops for leg loops and then wrapping the rest around your waist and cinching it would be a lot more comfortable. so basically a swiss seat setup. just made with your captured loop and then any excess tied off with another loop to tighten it. should be more redundant with 2 captured tie ins instead of 3 uncaptured. would be harder to get on and tie into though.
Hi loving the videos and the great simple style of them. I think a video on climbing called would be very helpful so as they're used in appropriate situations, as I climb with many different people there doesn't completely seem to be a standard for them. Thanks
Hi, just a question would you be able to show how to set up & tension a rope for a tyrolean traverse say to gain access to a sea stack. Great videos, cheers Rick.
Can you show us some statistcal data about the wasp quantities in your yard at the end of the summer. They seem to be on your mind quite frequently :D Awesome videos, love your approach that teaches reality and not always the tight textbook climbing. Thanks!
Hi Jez, fab videos! I was just wondering how would you belay on half ropes with an Italian hitch if you dropped your belay plate? I would assume it's one per carabiner and maybe different heights is important? Thanks in advance!
Let us know your own top improvisation tips and if anyone wants £10 off their first Huel order give us a shout and I'll send you a link!
Onther good one is if you are using a rope around a big bolder that has a deep undercut and sharp is to place a big Hex under it and thread the rope through that way it doesn’t get wedged underneath I have used this many times ❤
Locking italian hitch...going to try that one out! Thanks
A helmet and a trash bag/sandwich bag makes an ideal food bowl. A small razorblade can be taped to the inside of an old school helmet. 1mm/2mm accessory cord can be prewrapped around a haul loop for cutting the rope in emergencies. I try to keep an energy gel in my chalkbag pocket because i tend to get really hungry if things don't go to plan. In really interesting circumstances nuts and gear can be daisy chained together to add an extra 3-4 meters of reach to a setup. Oh, and in lieu of a second prussic you can use a belay plate in guide mode to ascend a rope, and in lieu of yet another prussic you can use the rope itself as a second prussic if you've forgotten them entirely.
Thanks for sharing!
goos stuff Jez, one of my mantras, "don't carry anything you cant use' - like making a bandolier - use a proper sling. Re other improvs, when arriving at top of pitch and running out of gear remember you have krabs for racking wires, cams etc. Slings on hexes/cams (dmm) can be threads or used as extenders, friction hitchs, that sort of thing, Look at everything on your harness and make a plan. Learn how to do a body belay and when it's appropriate.
I leant to abseil via classic and sling and krab - good old troll superblue more comfy than 6mm dyneema :-)
I remember getting a friction burn on my neck the first time I tried a classic...!
troll supertape (blue of course), shame it died out. If circumstance forced you to throw a sling over a sharp edged boulder to belay, would you want extra skinny dynema or a nice thick supertape blue? I used to love their harnesses back in the day (used to work in myTroll RAT) they invented the sit-harness, the belay loop, the sews/stitched sling and much more we take for granted! Sadly after the original founders retired, Troll is only a shadow of its former glory and now make only Tshirts, trousers etc. At least UK still has DMM manufacturing here, let's support them.
My nut key bungee is the only non-rated/useless thing I carry, except an accessory ‘biner on my shoes that stays with my bag... I just like the bungee - then I don’t have to worry about dropping it or not being able to reach the gear. I did try cord once... just more faff. Prusik on the chalk bag anyway, and usually 3 on my harness (because often friends don’t have one or two). Very neat trick with the locking Italian hitch - I always forget to play with it when I see it... no excuses now!
It's pretty good, well worth having a quick play!
Had a play with that locking Italian today. Clipping the climbing strand is the key there... had a go just through the loop and it wasn’t reliable. Did have a go around both parallel strands, right at the top, and that doesn’t work either. Releasing under load though, just with 5kg on there it was pretty much impossible to do without any aid!
Brilliant advice! I wish everyone watched your videos, very useful!
Glad you like 'em!
Woah this is the motherload of improv tips, one of my favs so far.
Glad it was useful!
I've seen the sling from a dmm torque nut extended from the top and bottom to use as an extender on a nut when my climbing partner had run out of slings. Worked like a dream.
Done that before, good shout!
Hi. I have a question. This comes from years back when I was taught to use two half hitches instead of the mule to tie off. I find Two half hitches easier to teach, easier to learn, faster to tie, and easier to untie. Can you help me understand why the tied off mule is now the norm? Thanks!
They can prove much harder to untie if they're under load, whereas the Munter Mule is super easy.
I think tying two overhand knot loops for leg loops and then wrapping the rest around your waist and cinching it would be a lot more comfortable. so basically a swiss seat setup. just made with your captured loop and then any excess tied off with another loop to tighten it. should be more redundant with 2 captured tie ins instead of 3 uncaptured. would be harder to get on and tie into though.
Great video - thanks Jez! 👍
My pleasure!
Hi loving the videos and the great simple style of them. I think a video on climbing called would be very helpful so as they're used in appropriate situations, as I climb with many different people there doesn't completely seem to be a standard for them. Thanks
Glad you're enjoying them.
I'll have think if I can fit it in somewhere!
Hi, just a question would you be able to show how to set up & tension a rope for a tyrolean traverse say to gain access to a sea stack. Great videos, cheers Rick.
I'll add it to the to do list..!
You serve way more likes and subs, but I'm confident this will happen soon. Thanks and good luck with everything!
Can you show us some statistcal data about the wasp quantities in your yard at the end of the summer. They seem to be on your mind quite frequently :D
Awesome videos, love your approach that teaches reality and not always the tight textbook climbing. Thanks!
Wasp numbers are currently minimal!!!
Great Video Jez 👍👍
Cheers !
Hi Jez, fab videos!
I was just wondering how would you belay on half ropes with an Italian hitch if you dropped your belay plate? I would assume it's one per carabiner and maybe different heights is important? Thanks in advance!
It does work on one crab, it's not ideal but you can make it work.
2 crabs ends up a bit of nightmare.
Thats the new petzl fly harness lol
👍💯🔥
Dont think i have ever used my knife for anything other than cutting up chorizo.
That and cheese!