Having read the rock climbing book back-to-back a few times I'm pleasantly surprised how easy using a longer sling with a knot for the Y hang seems compared to using multiple short slings. Sounds so obvious now! Thanks for all of the educational videos that I'm now binge watching.
JB Mountain Skills H I Jez. To reduce the number of steps, when you set up the belay plate , just before you take out the releasable Italian, could you put the overhand knot a long way from you so you don’t have to remember to do it on the second stance?
Awesome videos, very clear and well presented and edited. Top work. On the last rescue here it you've got your dyneema sling larks-footed through your tie-in points which has been known to cause the sling to melt when it rubs against itself. I know that there shouldn't be any rubbing since it should be continually weighted but as I understood it best practice was to have it attached with a krab or by larks-footing it through the belay loop.
great video Jez, like the y-hang technique, my only worry would be the atc being too far and out of reach of my arms if extended too far, i like to be able to reach it.
My buddy and I were pondering what to do if you’re leading a bolted route and your belayer gets knocked out leaving the line taut and you hanging off the last bolt.
Assuming they are unconscious, would you need to first attach them to the next anchor using a tied off italian so that you can then release them onto the y-hang? Otherwise you need to lift them out of a screw gate for the next rapell
If you were half way up an above sea multipitch, and had to top out with an unconscious climber, how would you? You would hoist them up to the anchor you have as shown in your hoisting video, but then how would you approach the next pitch?
Good question. It'd be a really tough position to be in. Self belay might be an option, getting to an in situ ab line maybe too, possibly getting help somehow would be the easiest option!
Hey! Thanks for making this video - how would you go about transitioning to a counterbalance abseil if you had built the anchor using the rope? Cheers!
Love it, and comments answered one of my questions. But - am I right in thinking that the other climber must be within half of rope length to you so you can get down to them? Or you'd have to haul them up a bit or set up a new abseil point on your way down to them?
Just curious: did you choose to demonstrate with a releasable prussik + sling combo, because it's more familiar territory for beginners than the mariner overhand/tied off italian hitch with long slings/cordalette? Or is this the system you favour for another reason?
Good question! As with all these things, there's loads of ways of doing this, for me this is fairly progressive and builds on previously learnt skills, so minimises the amount of new things to learn.
Hello Jez, I love the ETS series, thank you! As far as when you've gotten your (unconscious) climber down to the belay/abseil station anchor and they're weighted onto the anchor system, how would you transfer their load onto the Y abseil and off of the anchor? I'm assuming from the, 'Self Rescue Skills for Rock Climbers: Abseil Pick Up & Stirrup Hoist' video that you did, you could lift the climber with a stirrup hoist, unclip them from the anchor, and then slowly release their load onto the shortened Y strand abseil? Do you have any better methods you'd recommend?
yes because of the friction at the top (belay) karabiner. think of lowering/holding someone at the climbing wall even if they are heavier than you, when at rest you dont go up the wall. Of course if they were 150kg and you were 25 it maybe different!
What Rob said! I don't have actual figures, but I think it'd have to be quite some weight difference I think. If there was, I was thinking maybe another Prusik on the other climbers strand of rope might work, but I'd have to have a play!
Going on how many times you've been having to take stock on screwgates in this vids, has it changed your mind on how many you carry as part of your 'just in case' kit? I've always felt I need at least three 'spare' once the belay is in place.
Good question! No it hasn't, just because it's such an unlikely thing to happen, escaping the system etc, and there's always improvisation options. Absolutely nothing wrong with carrying a couple of spares, but I've only escaped the system in anger once in about 23 years.
If you're on a 50m rope and your partner has been knocked out or something else that's equally bad. And you're both on a long pitch and you have to pusik down to them because you can't reach them on absail by 10m or so. Would you haul them considering they're unconscious?
Good question! I guess you have a couple of options, but I think hauling them up a bit (as little as possible is probably a good shout). Unassisted hoists are hard work but they do the job.
After the counterbalance abseil, am I correct in thinking: arrive with buddy at next stance, build belay, clip yourself into it, then buddy, remove the abseil rope from plate, pull the rope down on their side through the locker on the new master point to halfway, untie buddy from rope, tie knot in end of both strands, throw down crag and then set plate for abseil?
Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! www.buymeacoffee.com/jbmountain
Great series! Keep coming back to your videos before refreshing the techniques in practice. Thanks a lot!
Set up a nice little sling closet of my own and been working through the practice. Incredibly helpful mate!!
Sling Closet! 👊💪
Having read the rock climbing book back-to-back a few times I'm pleasantly surprised how easy using a longer sling with a knot for the Y hang seems compared to using multiple short slings. Sounds so obvious now! Thanks for all of the educational videos that I'm now binge watching.
Cheers Jez.
Going to be a busy day on the north face of the trellise
Hope it went well!
JB Mountain Skills H I Jez. To reduce the number of steps, when you set up the belay plate , just before you take out the releasable Italian, could you put the overhand knot a long way from you so you don’t have to remember to do it on the second stance?
Awesome videos, very clear and well presented and edited. Top work.
On the last rescue here it you've got your dyneema sling larks-footed through your tie-in points which has been known to cause the sling to melt when it rubs against itself. I know that there shouldn't be any rubbing since it should be continually weighted but as I understood it best practice was to have it attached with a krab or by larks-footing it through the belay loop.
would love a traverse rescue video!!!!!
You can also clove your sling to the rappel device to make a y hang
Awesome video 😀😄
Glad you enjoyed it!
great video Jez, like the y-hang technique, my only worry would be the atc being too far and out of reach of my arms if extended too far, i like to be able to reach it.
Cheers! Definitely a consideration, maybe I've got long arms, but it's still within my reach with my setup.
My buddy and I were pondering what to do if you’re leading a bolted route and your belayer gets knocked out leaving the line taut and you hanging off the last bolt.
Thanks
Assuming they are unconscious, would you need to first attach them to the next anchor using a tied off italian so that you can then release them onto the y-hang? Otherwise you need to lift them out of a screw gate for the next rapell
If in doubt, make everything releasable, such as using an Italian as you say :)
If you were half way up an above sea multipitch, and had to top out with an unconscious climber, how would you? You would hoist them up to the anchor you have as shown in your hoisting video, but then how would you approach the next pitch?
Good question. It'd be a really tough position to be in. Self belay might be an option, getting to an in situ ab line maybe too, possibly getting help somehow would be the easiest option!
Hey! Thanks for making this video - how would you go about transitioning to a counterbalance abseil if you had built the anchor using the rope?
Cheers!
My pleasure!
You'd have to build a belay out of slings / tat and transfer on to that :)
Hi Jez, thanks for this. Ice you're outside are thinking of doing anything about traverses?
Pleasure :)
Perhaps... Will require a lot of thought but I shall give it just that!
Love it, and comments answered one of my questions. But - am I right in thinking that the other climber must be within half of rope length to you so you can get down to them? Or you'd have to haul them up a bit or set up a new abseil point on your way down to them?
Glad it was useful!
With the counter balance setup, you might be able to do some man handling rather than full on hauling...
Just curious: did you choose to demonstrate with a releasable prussik + sling combo, because it's more familiar territory for beginners than the mariner overhand/tied off italian hitch with long slings/cordalette? Or is this the system you favour for another reason?
Good question! As with all these things, there's loads of ways of doing this, for me this is fairly progressive and builds on previously learnt skills, so minimises the amount of new things to learn.
Hello Jez, I love the ETS series, thank you!
As far as when you've gotten your (unconscious) climber down to the belay/abseil station anchor and they're weighted onto the anchor system, how would you transfer their load onto the Y abseil and off of the anchor?
I'm assuming from the, 'Self Rescue Skills for Rock Climbers: Abseil Pick Up & Stirrup Hoist' video that you did, you could lift the climber with a stirrup hoist, unclip them from the anchor, and then slowly release their load onto the shortened Y strand abseil? Do you have any better methods you'd recommend?
Glad you've liked 'em!
Yes, you're right, you need to get them off the weighted tied off rope, so a stirrup hoist is often the right thing to do.
For the counter balance, would it work okay with two climbers of significant weight difference? Not too sure on the physics of it!
yes because of the friction at the top (belay) karabiner. think of lowering/holding someone at the climbing wall even if they are heavier than you, when at rest you dont go up the wall. Of course if they were 150kg and you were 25 it maybe different!
What Rob said! I don't have actual figures, but I think it'd have to be quite some weight difference I think. If there was, I was thinking maybe another Prusik on the other climbers strand of rope might work, but I'd have to have a play!
Going on how many times you've been having to take stock on screwgates in this vids, has it changed your mind on how many you carry as part of your 'just in case' kit?
I've always felt I need at least three 'spare' once the belay is in place.
Good question! No it hasn't, just because it's such an unlikely thing to happen, escaping the system etc, and there's always improvisation options. Absolutely nothing wrong with carrying a couple of spares, but I've only escaped the system in anger once in about 23 years.
@@JBMountainSkills I would love to hear this story :-)
If you're on a 50m rope and your partner has been knocked out or something else that's equally bad. And you're both on a long pitch and you have to pusik down to them because you can't reach them on absail by 10m or so. Would you haul them considering they're unconscious?
Good question! I guess you have a couple of options, but I think hauling them up a bit (as little as possible is probably a good shout). Unassisted hoists are hard work but they do the job.
@@JBMountainSkills ok cool. Thanks
After the counterbalance abseil, am I correct in thinking: arrive with buddy at next stance, build belay, clip yourself into it, then buddy, remove the abseil rope from plate, pull the rope down on their side through the locker on the new master point to halfway, untie buddy from rope, tie knot in end of both strands, throw down crag and then set plate for abseil?
Pretty much, yes!
crema