Pro tip from Sean@034Motorsport - The hardlines are much easier to remove if you break all of the other connections for it, the whole line becomes loose after that.
Use caution when compressing the spring. Loosely wrap a towel around it to prevent it and tie the towel to the vice. This will prevent the assembly from becoming a projectile. There is a lot of force in that spring and if you are not compressing evenly, the entire assembly will fly out of your vice and smash all the teeth out of your head.
This is good advice. Thanks for pointing out how careful one should be. This is applies to all aspects of working on cars, but springs can be extra tricky. As you can see in the video I definitely paid a lot of attention to maintaining the alignment of the tools during compression. That being said I don’t know that this is going to knock your teeth out, it is a rather small spring. This isn’t a coilover spring dealing with kN of force, it’s essentially a valve spring. Not sure I can recall anyone seriously injuring themselves with one, but again I think you are 100% right to caution. In the right circumstances it could be painful to say the least.
@@DmitrysGaragelooking at doing this soon and I need a vice. How big of a vice am I going to need in order to do the Allen head trick? Seems like maybe 6"? Or could I get a cheaper vice like a 4 or 5" opening?
How wide does the vice have to open? I have to buy a vice. I have had this 034 HPFP piston upgrade kit for a year, and it’s sitting in my closet. I’m finally going to install it myself. Thanks, great video
Hey, Dmitry! Love the channel. Quick question. @2:06 in this video where you remove the clamp. What is this piece called? I snapped the barb off of that little black cylinder piece on the opposite end from where you removed the clamp. I cant find it anywhere because I don't know the name lol. Thanks in advance.
I believe this is #10 on the image below, and it's a canister purge valve. Unfortunately Audi parts, where I got that image, shows it as part number 037906283C, but it doesn't look right to me when I look at the part. I think their documentation is incorrect, it happens unfortunately. I think it's not a separate part you can buy from Audi directly, I think it's really part of 06M133240BP (new version is 06M133240BK). You may also be able to make a generic valve work, or this may be something to look at with the dealership's parts department, but 06M133240BP seems to include it. bit.ly/s4pcvdiag
You can definitely max out injector duty cycle with a hybrid turbo and enough ethanol. I was hoping there would be RS injector support for the 710 just to give it more head room, but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon. I recommend running around 60-75% ethanol. I find 75 is fine, I usually see zero long term fuel trim around 75ish.
It can’t be exactly the same for the b9 RS5, can it? I have had the 034 Motorsport HPFP box in my garage for months, and I finally invested in the parts (thank you) to do the job. I’m quite nervous, as recent TH-cam videos have finally given me the feeling like I can do this stuff myself. I’m also installing an IE carbon fiber intake with turbo inlet tube, and lastly for now some sequential mirror blinker lights I got from BMP tuning. You gave great advice at the end of the video. I’m just nervous because it’s my daily driver and if I make a mistake I am screwed. What do you think?
It should be very similar on an rs5 since its the same engine just different configuration. I would just put eyes on it and see if you understand how it is fastened to the fuel system and engine vs what’s in the video/instructions. If it all makes sense to you then I think it is a doable job. Give yourself time and a short term backup plan to get to work on Monday if you need to wait an extra day for a tool or something. That way you’re not going to feel pressured to rush and make mistakes or use wrong tools, etc…
More ticking…?! Why is it that HPFPs tick? Is there a way you can think of to help insulate to reduce the ticking sound from being audible inside car? Drives me nuts.
finally, a clean DIY video.. thanks man! looking forward to stage 3 stuff!
Thanks and yep lots of new vids coming!
Pro tip from Sean@034Motorsport - The hardlines are much easier to remove if you break all of the other connections for it, the whole line becomes loose after that.
Use caution when compressing the spring. Loosely wrap a towel around it to prevent it and tie the towel to the vice. This will prevent the assembly from becoming a projectile. There is a lot of force in that spring and if you are not compressing evenly, the entire assembly will fly out of your vice and smash all the teeth out of your head.
This is good advice. Thanks for pointing out how careful one should be. This is applies to all aspects of working on cars, but springs can be extra tricky. As you can see in the video I definitely paid a lot of attention to maintaining the alignment of the tools during compression. That being said I don’t know that this is going to knock your teeth out, it is a rather small spring. This isn’t a coilover spring dealing with kN of force, it’s essentially a valve spring. Not sure I can recall anyone seriously injuring themselves with one, but again I think you are 100% right to caution. In the right circumstances it could be painful to say the least.
I just did hpfp in my B9.5 S4. Using your video as a guide thank you🙏
This was definitely a help today! All other videos I watched kinda fly pass having to push directly on the top of the piston until it pops.
Appreciate the kind words, I try to show everything that I can to help make it easier to install =)
Another great video 👍🏻 I followed your links and ordered all the tools via Amazon
Thanks for the quality videos, as always!
Glad you enjoyed the video! :)
@@DmitrysGaragelooking at doing this soon and I need a vice. How big of a vice am I going to need in order to do the Allen head trick? Seems like maybe 6"? Or could I get a cheaper vice like a 4 or 5" opening?
"Remove the locking collar from the housing?" Remind me to get a year's worth of GYM membership before I do this mod to my B9 S4 lol
Definitely took a bit of muscle to break free!
Well done! I always appreciate your videos the quality and information!! Keep grinding!
@@Ourgarageautodetail Thanks I really appreciate the kind words :)
How wide does the vice have to open? I have to buy a vice. I have had this 034 HPFP piston upgrade kit for a year, and it’s sitting in my closet. I’m finally going to install it myself. Thanks, great video
nice comment
Hey, Dmitry! Love the channel. Quick question. @2:06 in this video where you remove the clamp. What is this piece called? I snapped the barb off of that little black cylinder piece on the opposite end from where you removed the clamp. I cant find it anywhere because I don't know the name lol. Thanks in advance.
I believe this is #10 on the image below, and it's a canister purge valve. Unfortunately Audi parts, where I got that image, shows it as part number 037906283C, but it doesn't look right to me when I look at the part. I think their documentation is incorrect, it happens unfortunately. I think it's not a separate part you can buy from Audi directly, I think it's really part of 06M133240BP (new version is 06M133240BK). You may also be able to make a generic valve work, or this may be something to look at with the dealership's parts department, but 06M133240BP seems to include it.
bit.ly/s4pcvdiag
I wonder if people are running into issues like fuel injectors maxing out. That’s the problem I have with the 034 HPFP, same car.
You can definitely max out injector duty cycle with a hybrid turbo and enough ethanol. I was hoping there would be RS injector support for the 710 just to give it more head room, but that doesn't seem to be on the horizon. I recommend running around 60-75% ethanol. I find 75 is fine, I usually see zero long term fuel trim around 75ish.
Have you had any issues after the install??
It can’t be exactly the same for the b9 RS5, can it? I have had the 034 Motorsport HPFP box in my garage for months, and I finally invested in the parts (thank you) to do the job. I’m quite nervous, as recent TH-cam videos have finally given me the feeling like I can do this stuff myself. I’m also installing an IE carbon fiber intake with turbo inlet tube, and lastly for now some sequential mirror blinker lights I got from BMP tuning. You gave great advice at the end of the video. I’m just nervous because it’s my daily driver and if I make a mistake I am screwed. What do you think?
It should be very similar on an rs5 since its the same engine just different configuration. I would just put eyes on it and see if you understand how it is fastened to the fuel system and engine vs what’s in the video/instructions. If it all makes sense to you then I think it is a doable job. Give yourself time and a short term backup plan to get to work on Monday if you need to wait an extra day for a tool or something. That way you’re not going to feel pressured to rush and make mistakes or use wrong tools, etc…
That’s great advice. Thanks
What tq amount did you set it for tightening down the pump?
More ticking…?! Why is it that HPFPs tick? Is there a way you can think of to help insulate to reduce the ticking sound from being audible inside car? Drives me nuts.
It's a mechanical device, it's actuated by your camshaft. So it ticks.
Is hard to follow along because the camera angle is jumping every where
What benefits did you see from this?
It provides more fuel flow which lets me run a bigger turbo. There are also “plus” tunes from 034 that give a bit more juice out of the stock turbo.