So I just want to say thank you for this video. I forgot I ordered the upgrade to 220 a month or 2 back. This got me off my chair and went out into the cold garage and just did the upgrade.
I have a new lathe coming, so I have been binge watching TH-cam. I find you to be a Pearl. A hidden gem on TH-cam. I will be joining soon. You early video's are just as relevant today as as they were then. Wishing you well. The cream will always rise to the top.
Super simple upgrade, nice. I was surprised at how much sawdust was in that electrical box. Makes me wonder if I should check mine. Thanks for the video.
Top clip on cover too loose. It can be bent a little tighter and will seat on gasket at top better, screw at bottom should hold it tight. But Shawn does need to use his compressor to blow the sawdust out of the motor ever so often.
So here is the part I don't quite understand. I have two sawstops I bought used and had some parts missing. I did some research into parts and wiring diagrams and what I found is that the only difference between the 240v and the 120v is the thermal overload switch inside the contactor and the plug at the end of the power cord. So, that's $20 in parts. That's it! Yet Sawstop wants to charge me $139 + freight for a contactor that is essentially the same ( except for the lower rated thermal switch, which is a $10 part). And, I can change out the Thermal switch and install a new plug onto my old cord and rewire the motor in 1/3rd the time of their "procedure" as all the cords stay where they are. I get the concept of making something plug and play to reduce the chance of human error, but there is little chance of human error in replacing the thermal unit and installing a 240v plug to your cord......
@@KipdoesStuff ok. I saw the 220 being pulled off the inside of the box but not put on over the 120 Is good. I really like the show. Stubled on it by accident a few episodes ago and subscribed right then. Good job fellers
I guess I hadn't given it any thought before, but I suppose it makes sense that it's an additional part/cost to upgrade a sawstop to 220v, given the processing it has to do... Thanks for sharing, I've been planning to swap my table saw to 220v, but it's a vintage Walker Turner, so slightly different from this :-)
Thanks for the video, I think I am going to convert to 240V. FYI everyone, USA has not been 110V since the 1960s. I am closer to 130-260V in my neighborhood but this is going to depend, probably on how close you are to source but should ideally be no less than 120-240V
Hi from Europe. Thank you for some explanation. This voltage business in US was a mistery to me. Over here we have single phase 230V or 3 phase 400V . Most industrial machines have 3 phase motors at 400V.
thanks for all your videos and help. i recomend making some framed sound absorbers for your shop. it will improve video audio and help deaden the echos from your tools
Most people always have a dust collector running when using their table saw, jointer, planer, etc. Normally a DC is going to use 12 to 15 amps on 120v, so put your dust collector on one leg and your tools on the other leg to balance the load on the electrical system. If your dust collector is already 240v, then yea, it makes sense to run your saw and other large tools on 240v so you are keeping the load balanced on each leg. I guess if youre using a shop vac for DC or have a 200 amp panel in the shop, it doesnt matter either way.
I see you have a 30inch premium fence are you happy with the fence or feel after using the saw you think the professional t glide would have been a better choice.
Did you shorten the fence rails on this saw? My big problem with all the cabinet saws is how wide the fence rails are. I just don't have the room in my shop for a 66 inch rail!! Thanks
The ramp-up did seem marginally quicker on 220V. Would have been nice to have a thick board cut comparison too, but you would now have to swap it back, so I guess that's a no go. Did you put the 220V lable on the electrical connection box? I wish you no harm, but just in case, the next person that may end up with that saw needs to know that the 220V connection is made inside that cover. The plug end should tell them, but better safe than sorry. "Live Long and Prosper"* my friend. And I'll see you next time for the tune-up and truing/tuning of the cabinet/table saw video. That should be some great information. Thanks ahead of time for that one too. * (Mr. Spock, Star Trek)
The US adopted 110V as the AC voltage standard because it takes more amperage to deliver the same amount of power, which requires a larger gauge of wire. That means more copper. The nascent copper industry lobbied for the 110V standard in order to create a larger market for copper, and it worked. The rest of the world, except Japan, adopted a the higher voltage specifically to use less copper. The US got it wrong for the wrong reasons; the rest of the world got it right for the right reasons.
I’ve also heard that we were a first mover nation and haven’t had to rebuild due to World Wars. At the time our system and standards were set up wire insulation wasn’t as good so lower amperage was safer in construction. If we’d been 10 years back like Europe and based standards decisions on technology of that time we’d likely be on 220.
@@wortheffort The thing is that all homes actually have always had 220V, it is just delivered in two 110V legs. So the wiring was available for the 220V. The push from the copper companies was to get the standard voltage in the home down to 110V as that required the higher gauge copper. I used to work for a copper company and they really were a motivating force in the decision making.
@@wortheffort Post-war rebuilding is the most likely reason for the switch to 220/240 in Europe. France (for example) used to be 110v single phase with 220v triple phase, then became 220v single phase with 380v triple phase (and eventually 240v/400v). Many European 380v triple phase motors can be rewired to 220v triple phase as it remained an industrial standard. Rewiring a three phase motor to 220v opens the possibility of running it off single phase 240v through a frequency variator (which also lets you adjust the motor speed and rotational direction). I've been running my 12" jointer/planer that way for 6 months as it was cheaper than getting a dedicated 3 phase setup for the workshop.
Unless you are running your table saw several hours a day, you likely will see no difference at 240 as compared to 120. Yes, you will be a little more efficient, but it will not be noticeable on the amount of electricity most table saws use in a month in a typical home shop. Certainly, if you are running a commercial shop and using your power tools several hours each day, then running larger HP motors at 240 volts is worth doing. I use my 1.75 HP 110 V Sawstop maybe a few hours in a typical month and the convenience of being able to use any outlet in my shop is nice and the loss of efficiency compared to 240 V isn’t detectable. I’ve never had the saw trip a breaker on my 20A circuits, even with my ShopVac plugged into the same circuit with the saw.
The sound test is not the best because camera have a compressor built in that kick when sound is peaking. Which will make every sound something like 85-95db. Still IRL my 240v is always a little bit quieter or as you said more bassy sound.
Uh... Guys... Our shop teacher is playing Among Us now. I think that means it's not cool anymore. Honestly, at 43 years old, I didn't expect that sort of thing to ever be a problem again.
I have noticed that people from 110 volt countries seem concerned about 220 volt installations. I think the problem is that they see the higher voltage as more dangerous when its really the higher current that kills. You can have several thousand volts and be shocked by that with a nasty jolt but no real harm. For example a cattle fence has 7,8,9 or more thousand volts in the wire and if you touch it.... ouch but no real harm done as you only have milliamps of current. As you rightly commented the higher voltage reduces the current being taken and lower current means lower temperature of the device and also your household wiring
Except that current and voltage are inseparable and if the voltage is twice as high the current will be twice as high so higher voltage is absolutely more dangerous. And higher voltage will jump a larger air gap so there is that additional danger also.
@@footplate0 It is simple physics, but not simple enough for you to understand. I does not equal V*R2. Ohm’s law is V=IR, which means I=V/R. When R is a constant, as it is with the human body in the short term, if you double V, then you must double I to maintain the equation. If you grab onto 120 V you will get a certain amount of current through your body based on your current body resistance. If you then grab onto 240 V you will experience twice as much current flowing through your body. If the amount of current from 120 V was just under the amount needed to stop your heart, then 240 V would give twice as much current and might well be enough to cause cardiac arrest.
Didn't watch the video did ya. Machine stayed unplugged from start to finish. Don't need to be a licensed electrician to know to unplug a device before working on it to avoid death.
Thanks for going over all the benefits of 220v and not just "you won't flip the breaker" this was super helpful and helping me understand the benefits
So I just want to say thank you for this video. I forgot I ordered the upgrade to 220 a month or 2 back. This got me off my chair and went out into the cold garage and just did the upgrade.
This channel and King’s Fine Woodworking are my favorites.
I have a new lathe coming, so I have been binge watching TH-cam. I find you to be a Pearl. A hidden gem on TH-cam. I will be joining soon. You early video's are just as relevant today as as they were then. Wishing you well. The cream will always rise to the top.
Cool. it really does make a difference in powering up.
Super simple upgrade, nice. I was surprised at how much sawdust was in that electrical box. Makes me wonder if I should check mine. Thanks for the video.
Was thinking the same. Like: "man where did the sawdust come from?" there's a gasket and the hole where the wire come in seem to be blocked.
Top clip on cover too loose. It can be bent a little tighter and will seat on gasket at top better, screw at bottom should hold it tight. But Shawn does need to use his compressor to blow the sawdust out of the motor ever so often.
@@tomcoker9882 Compress air :'D
So here is the part I don't quite understand. I have two sawstops I bought used and had some parts missing. I did some research into parts and wiring diagrams and what I found is that the only difference between the 240v and the 120v is the thermal overload switch inside the contactor and the plug at the end of the power cord. So, that's $20 in parts. That's it! Yet Sawstop wants to charge me $139 + freight for a contactor that is essentially the same ( except for the lower rated thermal switch, which is a $10 part). And, I can change out the Thermal switch and install a new plug onto my old cord and rewire the motor in 1/3rd the time of their "procedure" as all the cords stay where they are. I get the concept of making something plug and play to reduce the chance of human error, but there is little chance of human error in replacing the thermal unit and installing a 240v plug to your cord......
Don't forget to label it as 220 now. Also the 220 seems to have a lot less screaming
Thanks for sharing all of your videos
label his own saw? lol it will be apparent
@@KipdoesStuff ok. I saw the 220 being pulled off the inside of the box but not put on over the 120
Is good. I really like the show. Stubled on it by accident a few episodes ago and subscribed right then.
Good job fellers
I guess I hadn't given it any thought before, but I suppose it makes sense that it's an additional part/cost to upgrade a sawstop to 220v, given the processing it has to do... Thanks for sharing, I've been planning to swap my table saw to 220v, but it's a vintage Walker Turner, so slightly different from this :-)
Thanks for the video, I think I am going to convert to 240V. FYI everyone, USA has not been 110V since the 1960s. I am closer to 130-260V in my neighborhood but this is going to depend, probably on how close you are to source but should ideally be no less than 120-240V
Remember to change the 120v label on the wire cover. (13.41 min). Thanks for the walk-thru.
Hi from Europe. Thank you for some explanation. This voltage business in US was a mistery to me. Over here we have single phase 230V or 3 phase 400V . Most industrial machines have 3 phase motors at 400V.
Great video ! Looking forward to the next one . Thank for sharing .
Aloha....great video...thank you for taking the time...can you tell me what the amp draw is with 220? Thank you in advance.
thanks for all your videos and help. i recomend making some framed sound absorbers for your shop. it will improve video audio and help deaden the echos from your tools
That was discussed in last video.
@@wortheffort you're the man! thanks for all you do!
Thank you, Shawn.
Most people always have a dust collector running when using their table saw, jointer, planer, etc. Normally a DC is going to use 12 to 15 amps on 120v, so put your dust collector on one leg and your tools on the other leg to balance the load on the electrical system. If your dust collector is already 240v, then yea, it makes sense to run your saw and other large tools on 240v so you are keeping the load balanced on each leg. I guess if youre using a shop vac for DC or have a 200 amp panel in the shop, it doesnt matter either way.
I see you have a 30inch premium fence are you happy with the fence or feel after using the saw you think the professional t glide would have been a better choice.
Haven't thought of it at all which tells you my opinion of it.
Did you shorten the fence rails on this saw? My big problem with all the cabinet saws is how wide the fence rails are. I just don't have the room in my shop for a 66 inch rail!! Thanks
No, did not. Shorten the fence rails means less travel of fence. Not that much to begin with if you make cabinets.
What model saw stop do you have in this video?
The ramp-up did seem marginally quicker on 220V. Would have been nice to have a thick board cut comparison too, but you would now have to swap it back, so I guess that's a no go.
Did you put the 220V lable on the electrical connection box? I wish you no harm, but just in case, the next person that may end up with that saw needs to know that the 220V connection is made inside that cover. The plug end should tell them, but better safe than sorry. "Live Long and Prosper"* my friend. And I'll see you next time for the tune-up and truing/tuning of the cabinet/table saw video. That should be some great information. Thanks ahead of time for that one too.
* (Mr. Spock, Star Trek)
Lol at the saw dust in the junction box. You'd think they'd add a gasket to prevent that
Thanks for sharing that!
Great Info!!! Thank You!!! 👍😎
nice video, thanks
wait, they'll let you upgrade to 3hp? For some reason, I thought it required a larger housing.
ya, simple motor replacement. modular system.
"That sawdust is not good.....PFPFSSFFHTPFPTTTPFPPPTTT!! There, that's better!" 😄
The US adopted 110V as the AC voltage standard because it takes more amperage to deliver the same amount of power, which requires a larger gauge of wire. That means more copper. The nascent copper industry lobbied for the 110V standard in order to create a larger market for copper, and it worked. The rest of the world, except Japan, adopted a the higher voltage specifically to use less copper. The US got it wrong for the wrong reasons; the rest of the world got it right for the right reasons.
I’ve also heard that we were a first mover nation and haven’t had to rebuild due to World Wars. At the time our system and standards were set up wire insulation wasn’t as good so lower amperage was safer in construction. If we’d been 10 years back like Europe and based standards decisions on technology of that time we’d likely be on 220.
@@wortheffort The thing is that all homes actually have always had 220V, it is just delivered in two 110V legs. So the wiring was available for the 220V. The push from the copper companies was to get the standard voltage in the home down to 110V as that required the higher gauge copper. I used to work for a copper company and they really were a motivating force in the decision making.
@@wortheffort By the bye, excellent job on the content. You have built a very good channel.
@@wortheffort Post-war rebuilding is the most likely reason for the switch to 220/240 in Europe. France (for example) used to be 110v single phase with 220v triple phase, then became 220v single phase with 380v triple phase (and eventually 240v/400v). Many European 380v triple phase motors can be rewired to 220v triple phase as it remained an industrial standard. Rewiring a three phase motor to 220v opens the possibility of running it off single phase 240v through a frequency variator (which also lets you adjust the motor speed and rotational direction). I've been running my 12" jointer/planer that way for 6 months as it was cheaper than getting a dedicated 3 phase setup for the workshop.
Unless you are running your table saw several hours a day, you likely will see no difference at 240 as compared to 120. Yes, you will be a little more efficient, but it will not be noticeable on the amount of electricity most table saws use in a month in a typical home shop. Certainly, if you are running a commercial shop and using your power tools several hours each day, then running larger HP motors at 240 volts is worth doing.
I use my 1.75 HP 110 V Sawstop maybe a few hours in a typical month and the convenience of being able to use any outlet in my shop is nice and the loss of efficiency compared to 240 V isn’t detectable. I’ve never had the saw trip a breaker on my 20A circuits, even with my ShopVac plugged into the same circuit with the saw.
I want a Felder PCS® "Preventive Contact System" table saw
Get the 3HP motor. It will give you noticeably smoother cuts. Just $0.02 FWIW
The sound test is not the best because camera have a compressor built in that kick when sound is peaking. Which will make every sound something like 85-95db. Still IRL my 240v is always a little bit quieter or as you said more bassy sound.
‘Twas more for speed as you can tell it reaches max speed a little quicker.
Not really done....you didn't change that 120 Volt label!
Uh... Guys... Our shop teacher is playing Among Us now. I think that means it's not cool anymore.
Honestly, at 43 years old, I didn't expect that sort of thing to ever be a problem again.
I hadn't expected a Among Us reference X^D
I have noticed that people from 110 volt countries seem concerned about 220 volt installations. I think the problem is that they see the higher voltage as more dangerous when its really the higher current that kills. You can have several thousand volts and be shocked by that with a nasty jolt but no real harm. For example a cattle fence has 7,8,9 or more thousand volts in the wire and if you touch it.... ouch but no real harm done as you only have milliamps of current. As you rightly commented the higher voltage reduces the current being taken and lower current means lower temperature of the device and also your household wiring
Correct, volts don't kill, current kills but it only takes 15 mA to kill. GFCI setting is 5mA.
Except that current and voltage are inseparable and if the voltage is twice as high the current will be twice as high so higher voltage is absolutely more dangerous. And higher voltage will jump a larger air gap so there is that additional danger also.
@@LTVoyager If you double the voltage you half the current I=V*R2 conversely if you halve the voltage you double the current. Its simple physics.
@@footplate0 It is simple physics, but not simple enough for you to understand. I does not equal V*R2. Ohm’s law is V=IR, which means I=V/R. When R is a constant, as it is with the human body in the short term, if you double V, then you must double I to maintain the equation. If you grab onto 120 V you will get a certain amount of current through your body based on your current body resistance. If you then grab onto 240 V you will experience twice as much current flowing through your body. If the amount of current from 120 V was just under the amount needed to stop your heart, then 240 V would give twice as much current and might well be enough to cause cardiac arrest.
@@footplate0 It is eerily quiet…
Amps kill, not voltage. Overall premise of this video is great with a lot of solid info. However, the safety comments weren't wholly accurate.
Way to simple.
@@paulolsen4867 True, but what drives the amperage?
Never take advice from a unlicensed electrician. 110v can kill just as easily as 220v. Don't be fooled.
Didn't watch the video did ya. Machine stayed unplugged from start to finish. Don't need to be a licensed electrician to know to unplug a device before working on it to avoid death.
Didn't comprehend what I said or meant by the comment did ya? Lol
Voltage isn't the killer. Amps is the killer. Don't take advice from someone who thinks they know everything.