This is a great explanation of how this product works, however my understanding is the best practice to solve basement or crawl space water instrution problems is to either: 1) Fix the actual source of the problem which is water pooling outside the wall. Place a french drain on the outside wall next to and just below the footer so that water can not rise above the footer, therefore there is no water. Fixing the source is typically the best path. Of course also grade the ground away from the house and make sure downspouts dump water away too. 2) If it's too expensive to fix from the outside, which is common because the basement is 10 feet deep or there is a huge driveway or patio in the way, then place a french drain on the inside, next to the footer. As the water leaks into the basement, the french drain collects the water and either pumps it out or use gravity. This relieves the hydrostatic pressure on the outside wall pushing in, which over decades may cause the basement wall to "fall in". Water/dirt probably pushes into the wall from the outside with 2x more force than dry dirt alone. One downside to this solution is the sump pump will not work if the electricty goes out, which sometimes happens during the huge rain events and exactly when you need the pump most! I am curious to know how the past ~100 locations have performed after a few years in use and compare them to a french drain solution, especially an inside french drain which would be similar in cost.
Thank you for your long and detailed comment. You cover several points, so I will try to briefly answer them although this is a very detailed subject and we would be happy to further discuss this with you if you give us a call 01387 270252. Firstly we would agree that generally waterproofing from the outside (positive side) is best. Hence nearly all new-build basements are waterproofed externally, normally with a combination of barrier waterproofing (Type A) and drainage (Type C) to include a land drain sitting off the toe of the slab. Waterproof Concrete (Type B) is also an option that can be considered. According to BS8102 (2009) and NHBC guidance, a combination of a least two methods out of A B and C should be used if there is any possibility of pressurised water ever coming to bear on the basement walls. With regards to refurbishment of an existing basement, it is unusual to excavate and install waterproofing externally due to reasons of cost and practicality. When waterproofing from the inside only Type A or Type C can be used. The type A as featured in this video has the advantage that it is passive, not relying on a pump and is maintenance free. The main dissadvantages are that it is a rigid system so could crack if there were movement, also condensation can be an issue, but there are ways to deal with this including Koster Restoration plaster. With a Type C (Drainage System), you will require a sump pump to be fitted and maintained annually. The system will also need flushing out from time to time. In case of power cuts, battery back-ups are available, but it all adds cost. The point about the walls collapsing in is not really valid, I have heard this before from people selling cavity drainage systems. When the building was constructed it was always intended for the basement walls to be able to retain water and soil and unless some major structural issue is identified there will not be an issue. In fact the difference in water pressure build up on a slightly leaking wall with a drainage system on the inside is not going to be significantly different than for a fully tanked wall. The wall itself without new waterproofing is still holding back 99% of the water and is not going to be leaking to the extent that it is locally lowering the water table! The structural issue that is more likely to be an issue is the floor. You can't install an internal waterproofing system on a "screed over dirt" floor. So in some old buildings a concrete slab will have to be installed before any waterproofing can be installed. If not then water pressure could cause the floor to heave, cracking the waterproofing system. You would also need to install a new concrete slab in this situation if you were installing a pumped drainage system. To answer your last question, we have been trading in the UK for 19 years and have supplied our mineral system for basement waterproofing to more than 1000 projects over that time. Some have been installed by approved contractors, some by general builders and some by DIYers. In that time we have had about 4 projects where we have encountered problems with excessive salts and about 5 projects where we have had problems with condensation (in all cases involving saturated blockwork). We have never had a problem with a wall collapsing or bowing and we have not had a problem with a floor heaving. We offer a very high level of technical support to our customers and try to design out all risks prior to the materials even arriving on site.
The NB1 Grey product featured in this video will resist negative water pressure in excess of 100m head. It is more than capable of sealing basement 3 even 3 or 4 storeys underground. Recently tested at Hydro Electric Power Station in very deep tunnels with great success.
I have a basement, It has a coating of paint, I think it is primer. It was a water prove guy came to do the water prove, it should be fiber glass. but when the first coat of the paint on, then water keep leaking in, because he clean up all the old water prove membrane off. And he said when the water not stop he couldn't apply the water prove material on, it wouldn't work. So that is why it left a coat of paint, (I think it is primer). The water prove system he was go to apply, should be the one for bathroom shower, This system I don't think it can hold the water from the other side.of the wall. So Koster product should be the permanent solution for my basement, but my basement has got the coat of paint (assume it is primer),Does it need to be wash off? What is the best way to wash it off? I got a water blaster, is it any good? Where can I buy your product, I am from New Zealand.
We do reccommend a dust mask whenever mixing or applying our cementitious sealing products. Exact PPE requirements will vary by site and COSHH requirements should always be observed. This video was produced in Germany quite a few years ago. We are working on new videos and will strive to make sure all possible PPE requirements for the UK are shown. Thanks for your feedback.
This is a great explanation of how this product works, however my understanding is the best practice to solve basement or crawl space water instrution problems is to either:
1) Fix the actual source of the problem which is water pooling outside the wall. Place a french drain on the outside wall next to and just below the footer so that water can not rise above the footer, therefore there is no water. Fixing the source is typically the best path. Of course also grade the ground away from the house and make sure downspouts dump water away too.
2) If it's too expensive to fix from the outside, which is common because the basement is 10 feet deep or there is a huge driveway or patio in the way, then place a french drain on the inside, next to the footer. As the water leaks into the basement, the french drain collects the water and either pumps it out or use gravity. This relieves the hydrostatic pressure on the outside wall pushing in, which over decades may cause the basement wall to "fall in". Water/dirt probably pushes into the wall from the outside with 2x more force than dry dirt alone. One downside to this solution is the sump pump will not work if the electricty goes out, which sometimes happens during the huge rain events and exactly when you need the pump most!
I am curious to know how the past ~100 locations have performed after a few years in use and compare them to a french drain solution, especially an inside french drain which would be similar in cost.
Thank you for your long and detailed comment. You cover several points, so I will try to briefly answer them although this is a very detailed subject and we would be happy to further discuss this with you if you give us a call 01387 270252.
Firstly we would agree that generally waterproofing from the outside (positive side) is best. Hence nearly all new-build basements are waterproofed externally, normally with a combination of barrier waterproofing (Type A) and drainage (Type C) to include a land drain sitting off the toe of the slab. Waterproof Concrete (Type B) is also an option that can be considered. According to BS8102 (2009) and NHBC guidance, a combination of a least two methods out of A B and C should be used if there is any possibility of pressurised water ever coming to bear on the basement walls.
With regards to refurbishment of an existing basement, it is unusual to excavate and install waterproofing externally due to reasons of cost and practicality. When waterproofing from the inside only Type A or Type C can be used. The type A as featured in this video has the advantage that it is passive, not relying on a pump and is maintenance free. The main dissadvantages are that it is a rigid system so could crack if there were movement, also condensation can be an issue, but there are ways to deal with this including Koster Restoration plaster. With a Type C (Drainage System), you will require a sump pump to be fitted and maintained annually. The system will also need flushing out from time to time. In case of power cuts, battery back-ups are available, but it all adds cost.
The point about the walls collapsing in is not really valid, I have heard this before from people selling cavity drainage systems. When the building was constructed it was always intended for the basement walls to be able to retain water and soil and unless some major structural issue is identified there will not be an issue. In fact the difference in water pressure build up on a slightly leaking wall with a drainage system on the inside is not going to be significantly different than for a fully tanked wall. The wall itself without new waterproofing is still holding back 99% of the water and is not going to be leaking to the extent that it is locally lowering the water table!
The structural issue that is more likely to be an issue is the floor. You can't install an internal waterproofing system on a "screed over dirt" floor. So in some old buildings a concrete slab will have to be installed before any waterproofing can be installed. If not then water pressure could cause the floor to heave, cracking the waterproofing system. You would also need to install a new concrete slab in this situation if you were installing a pumped drainage system.
To answer your last question, we have been trading in the UK for 19 years and have supplied our mineral system for basement waterproofing to more than 1000 projects over that time. Some have been installed by approved contractors, some by general builders and some by DIYers. In that time we have had about 4 projects where we have encountered problems with excessive salts and about 5 projects where we have had problems with condensation (in all cases involving saturated blockwork). We have never had a problem with a wall collapsing or bowing and we have not had a problem with a floor heaving. We offer a very high level of technical support to our customers and try to design out all risks prior to the materials even arriving on site.
The NB1 Grey product featured in this video will resist negative water pressure in excess of 100m head. It is more than capable of sealing basement 3 even 3 or 4 storeys underground. Recently tested at Hydro Electric Power Station in very deep tunnels with great success.
I love this, truly lifechanging
ear protection,eye protection,....no mask,how quick did that powder react with the water?! Great stuff for damaging respiratory system!
@amusingisthedawn
this stuff does look good but Ill tell ya, Sani Tred is really the very best I have seen and also USED in my own home
I have a basement, It has a coating of paint, I think it is primer. It was a water prove guy came to do the water prove, it should be fiber glass. but when the first coat of the paint on, then water keep leaking in, because he clean up all the old water prove membrane off. And he said when the water not stop he couldn't apply the water prove material on, it wouldn't work. So that is why it left a coat of paint, (I think it is primer). The water prove system he was go to apply, should be the one for bathroom shower, This system I don't think it can hold the water from the other side.of the wall.
So Koster product should be the permanent solution for my basement, but my basement has got the coat of paint (assume it is primer),Does it need to be wash off? What is the best way to wash it off? I got a water blaster, is it any good?
Where can I buy your product, I am from New Zealand.
The Brits are hardcore. No mask in an enclosed space.
Absurdism665 Germans actually - We have asked them to ensure that full PPE is worn in all future video presentations!
Actually a German Video, we have requested that all future productions feature appropriate PPE
Shouldn't he be wearing a fresh air mask when using this stuff??
We do reccommend a dust mask whenever mixing or applying our cementitious sealing products. Exact PPE requirements will vary by site and COSHH requirements should always be observed. This video was produced in Germany quite a few years ago. We are working on new videos and will strive to make sure all possible PPE requirements for the UK are shown. Thanks for your feedback.
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