you talk, you try, you climb, you walk, you try again, ... and you create spectacular portraits. You are a great master because you always know where to arrive and you make us arrive together with you. Thank you!
This is a great educational video. Mono is all about tones, textures, shadow and sculpting with light. You did this beautifully. I would have done the shoot again off camera with a film back on loaded with Ilford Pan F Plus. I wonder what you would have got...🙂
Watching the video again. You have watch for the great tips. I see if I can make some grayscale photos of myself before end of the year. Thanks for the tips!!
Love content like this. I dont have a studio and I only have a couple nice lights. I work with most of the local dance studios doing all their portrait work. This style of content is fantastic. Thanks!
Dance studios make amazing studios. 3 lights, a bg stand, a roll of each of Thunder grey and of white and you’re set. Swap free shoots for studio time on their slowest days or after hours and you’re rolling! Do it! I started exactly like that with 3 speed lights 15 yrs ago.
As a studio photographer, I think light meter only gives you a technically correct measurement. You always need to adjust the lighting intensity, directions etc. to match your artistic goal.
His manual method is probably developed over decades prior to modern radio triggers. And of course he wants to show that anyone with a simple setup can succeed. And clearly it works. But to start now as a new photographer and ignore the tech is a bit stubborn. Using a meter is just faster. With a meter you can read the values and see the shot in your mind before it’s taken. Like reading a histogram it’s a very useful tool. When I owned a studio I used a remote hub with integrated meter (Paul Buff). So I could measure, adjust, measure all around the light array individually and in groups. Then hit ALL and shoot. After that it’s just a matter of changing angles or location to suit. Setting up that way lets you spend more time shaping light and posing subjects. No more running back and forth to every light then back to the camera. You stand beside the model and pop, pop, pop. And if you tether or control the camera from an iPad you can see the results on your monitor without ever having to move. I calculated I saved 15 minutes in a 2 hr session this way when I was young and mobile. As I age I appreciate it more.
I’m surprised he doesn’t utilize the grouping, remote control hub and integrated measuring capabilities of those lights. No running around. Test, measure, adjust, test, shoot. Then just one trip to move the light and done. I’d be lost without my meter. Old habits die hard I guess. Gorgeous results!
You'd think that for the price that Broncolor is charging for their lights, you'd be able to control them with a remote or an app instead of having to climb up on a ladder to make adjustments. Switch to Godox ;--)
All broncolor lights can be controlled from an App, also the more expensive power packs such as Scoro or Satos can be controlled from your desktop within other tethered software.
Great demonstration and outcome. Very clear, very concise and immediately usable.
you talk, you try, you climb, you walk, you try again, ... and you create spectacular portraits. You are a great master because you always know where to arrive and you make us arrive together with you. Thank you!
First-class video, Karl. You are one of the very best photography educators I have watched and listened to. Thank you.
Again, another great one from the “Master of Light” You keep sharpening and challenging our skills for this passion!
Thanks for keep being the hero !
My pleasure, thanks for watching.
This may be the best video I’ve ever seen on portraiture
Great to hear, check out part 1 and some of our other videos too.
Some more great tips, especially about using darker grey for backdrops. Thanks Karl!
This is one of the best content I came across today! Well done
This is a great educational video. Mono is all about tones, textures, shadow and sculpting with light. You did this beautifully. I would have done the shoot again off camera with a film back on loaded with Ilford Pan F Plus. I wonder what you would have got...🙂
So glad I finally found your channel after 5 years 6:50 studding photography, full time
Watching the video again. You have watch for the great tips. I see if I can make some grayscale photos of myself before end of the year. Thanks for the tips!!
Part 2 was every bit as good as part 1. Well done
Great, thanks for watching.
Love content like this.
I dont have a studio and I only have a couple nice lights. I work with most of the local dance studios doing all their portrait work. This style of content is fantastic. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful.
Dance studios make amazing studios. 3 lights, a bg stand, a roll of each of Thunder grey and of white and you’re set. Swap free shoots for studio time on their slowest days or after hours and you’re rolling!
Do it!
I started exactly like that with 3 speed lights 15 yrs ago.
Awesome quality lesson learnt alot
The information on lighting, and posing is great for personal work or campaign. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful I learned a lot from this session and the last video thank you and your time.
Glad you enjoyed them.
The result is always the best congratulations once again Karl Taylor
Thank you.
Please the link can I buy this stand light ???
Absolutely wonderful, you are a truly Master
Very kind, thank you
Amazing stuff, Master, bless your heart, very grateful, stay wonderful, may the Lord keep you healthy and happy for us :)
superb! thank you so much
Awesome… thank you
Why not use a light meter to avoid the guessing of light intensity?
As a studio photographer, I think light meter only gives you a technically correct measurement. You always need to adjust the lighting intensity, directions etc. to match your artistic goal.
Because it's faster and free to shoot a test
His manual method is probably developed over decades prior to modern radio triggers. And of course he wants to show that anyone with a simple setup can succeed. And clearly it works. But to start now as a new photographer and ignore the tech is a bit stubborn. Using a meter is just faster.
With a meter you can read the values and see the shot in your mind before it’s taken. Like reading a histogram it’s a very useful tool. When I owned a studio I used a remote hub with integrated meter (Paul Buff). So I could measure, adjust, measure all around the light array individually and in groups. Then hit ALL and shoot. After that it’s just a matter of changing angles or location to suit. Setting up that way lets you spend more time shaping light and posing subjects. No more running back and forth to every light then back to the camera. You stand beside the model and pop, pop, pop.
And if you tether or control the camera from an iPad you can see the results on your monitor without ever having to move. I calculated I saved 15 minutes in a 2 hr session this way when I was young and mobile. As I age I appreciate it more.
Is it just me or is the model beautiful? One light wow
Love it
Bravo Maestro
Great videos . Karl remind me of a young Donald Pleasence :)
I’m surprised he doesn’t utilize the grouping, remote control hub and integrated measuring capabilities of those lights. No running around. Test, measure, adjust, test, shoot. Then just one trip to move the light and done. I’d be lost without my meter.
Old habits die hard I guess. Gorgeous results!
You'd think that for the price that Broncolor is charging for their lights, you'd be able to control them with a remote or an app instead of having to climb up on a ladder to make adjustments. Switch to Godox ;--)
All broncolor lights can be controlled from an App, also the more expensive power packs such as Scoro or Satos can be controlled from your desktop within other tethered software.
❤