How to Build a Basic HO Scale Steam Engine Kit: Part 4 - Masking, Paint & Decals

Ever wanted to build a metal steam engine kit in HO scale but aren't sure if you can do it well or not? Then check out this video series where I build a Bowser 2-8-0 "Old Lady" Consolidation! Following many of the methods shown here, you'll be able to put together a nice running model to be proud of for years to come!
This was one of the most basic kits from Bowser, with a typical mechanism and very few details to add on. Kits from others such as Mantua/Tyco, Penn Line, Varney and MDC/Roundhouse are very similar in how they're put together, so the advice in these videos can be applied to many different models.

[@Stanf954]

Nicely done. When applying decal I use Micro Set *Blue first when applying onto the surface then let it settle and semi dry then apply the Micro Sol *Red to finish.

[@rajatdas6895]

Niceeee. That's wonderful. Can't wait to look at the finished product 👍

[@markwilliams2620]

For the algorithm and a suggestion. Wear thin cotton gloves to handle the model after painting. Finger oil can lead to poor decal adhesion or dullcoat spotting. They can be reused and don't cause hand sweat like nitrile gloves do.

[@Steamerthesteamtrain]

Back when the Boiler was used as a 4-6-0, it kinda looked to me like a Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis Class G8A.

[@Uptownloki47]

Is it better to take the details off or leave them on for painting? When I paint brass I leave the details on.

[@DarthSantaFe]

When the details are already glued or soldered to the model, I leave them in place. When building a kit like this, I like to leave off parts that cross over multiple colors since it can make masking and finishing easier.

[@Uptownloki47]

@@DarthSantaFe Thanks for clearing that up. Do you know any manufacturers that make tender replacements for Bowser steam locomotives? I'm debating whether or not to switch my 2-10-2's tender out for a bigger one when I get it.

[@DarthSantaFe]

@@Uptownloki47 Bowser did make some long-haul tenders, and I see those come up now and then. You might also be able to adapt a tender from someone like BLI if you can find one separate. There used to be a lot of tenders sold separately, but it seems like most everyone has stopped doing that lately.

[@Uptownloki47]

@@DarthSantaFe Thanks for the advice

[@patrickmurphy6775]

The blue tape worked perfectly when masking my plastic models. It did not like my metal engine and tender. Major disaster. What are the other tapes you mentioned?? Good video, btw!

[@DarthSantaFe]

Some paints don't hold well to metal, so you might want to start with a good quality primer coat. I had the same problem with my Athearn metal RDC, but after trying Tamiya spray can primer, the blue tape didn't peel off even a flake of the colored paint.

[@docdougherty5622]

I’m working on the same Varney loco. The unit runs fine with the shell off and the tender in place but when I install the shell I experience a short. I have placed Kapton tape over all the electrical areas but still have the same results. Any hints as to what I have done incorrectly?

[@DarthSantaFe]

Does the shell make any contact with the tender or the motor brushes? I’d also look to see if any of the drive wheels are making contact with the shell.

[@jumijorailroad2925]

If you placed the railings on the locomotive first and applied super glue to the inside of the shell, it would have been easier with zero risk of getting glue on the paint.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Yeah, that would be better. Some of my methods will be improved in the next video series.

[@michaelstrains4014]

What paints do you recommend using primer with? Im currently trying to paint a PFM UP 0-6-0 using Tru-Color.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I'm currently trying Tamiya's spray can gray primer for a new project based on recommendations. The primer coat is down and very smooth, so we'll see how things go for the paint! I was having troubles before with the TC paint peeling with masking tape, so I'm hoping this will fix it.

[@EdwinsTrains]

Will the water used in prepping the model weaken thin super glue used to hold sand lines in?

[@DarthSantaFe]

The dried super glue isn’t water soluble, so it will be perfectly fine even after washing.

[@EdwinsTrains]

@@DarthSantaFe That is good to know.

[@OldRadioMan]

But wouldn’t it be easier to paint the model be for assembly (removing flash before painting, and putting parts like the cab back on first)

[@DarthSantaFe]

You could do it this way, but the problem is that the paint can get damaged more easily during the building process. Because of this, the preferred method is to build the unpainted model first to be sure everything is working correctly and that most of the detail parts have been installed or at least checked to fit where they'll need to go later. Then once the model is painted, only a minimal amount of work is needed to get it reassembled and running well, so there's less possibility of damaging the paint.

[@OldRadioMan]

I never though of that, thanks for replying!!

[@cyclonebill6684]

Still doesn’t make sense to do it that way.

[@cyclonebill6684]

What you’re doing is interesting to me. HOW you’re doing it is aggravating. Why take apart both pieces and leave all the parts all over the place?

[@DarthSantaFe]

It’s not easy to see in the video, but I did keep all the parts together to make sure nothing got lost. On more complex models with lots of parts, I am more likely to use some small containers to keep things together.

[@richardp6178]

Never use a hair dryer on paint! You're just blowing dust all over your paint!

[@DarthSantaFe]

Depends on the area and the hair dryer, and how the part is positioned while drying it. If you're in a clean area using a clean hair dryer and either holding the part away from the table/floor or have it sitting on a clean dust-free surface, then it will remain clean. If the area is dusty, then you probably shouldn't be spray painting there anyway since the airbrush or aerosol can will be kicking dust into the air which will then settle on the painted piece.