Back in the early 1950s, my dad chucked up the pistons out of an International Harvester pickup and knurled them so they would fit the worn bore. Got rid of a lot of the piston slap.
I usually just build up the pressure over a couple of passes. It works for me. On brass I use compressed air to blow away the chips. No cutting fluid. Thanks for another interesting video.
+John Creasey Hi John. I also don't use lube on brass. I do use it on aluminium and steel though. I actually don't really like turning brass, not because it's a bad metal, it's actually very beautiful, but because of those damn tiny sharp brass splinters you always get. Always seem to get a few under my skin. Cheers Rob
I just purchased my first lathe 3 days ago, it's a paramount badged Lantaine LAM 350B from 1980, your videos are great and I can't wait to try out some of your beginner tips, hopefully I don't knurl my fingers;) can you advise on what oil I can use in the quick change and headstock bearings?
+Neds Head It would probably run fine on car engine oil, but there may be a specific type/grade of oil the manufacturer specifies. I recommend you post the question on the following forum, as I'm sure some members have owned Lantaine lathes like yours, and may even have a manual they can copy. metalworkforums.com/forums/65-METALWORK-FORUM Cheers Rob
Other tutorials I've seen emphasized the importance of the diameter of the blank relative to the knurl size--Did you just wing it or did you skip that part?
+Rick Rose Hi Rick. I've done it to the specifications (diameter) for knurl pitch, and like most people I've talked to, it makes stuff all difference. I just chuck it up and knurl away - the results are always good. If you want to do it to spec go right ahead, but I've yet to see any difference in outcome. Cheers Rob
+Rick Rose I should add that if you get into really coarse pitch knurling, then it is advisable to do it the technically correct way, as the pattern may not align correctly on overlap. Rob
+PuchMaxi1988 I bought it from a web store in the UK. Pretty sure it's made in China like every thing else (nearly). HBM is fairly well known in the UK I believe. It's reasonable quality for the money. I have bought other HBM stuff, but can't remember what - maybe mill cutters. LOL. Brain fade. Cheers Rob
+NeonStorm5 I don't have any experience with that mill, although I have looked at them fairly closely as I did consider buying a mill once. Seems solid enough, has a decent dovetail column. Some slop in the controls, like all cheap machinery. That's probably the model I would buy, as it's about the right price range and size to be useful/rigid enough for home use. Lots of places/manufacturers sell a nearly identical model unit - eg. Hare and Forbes. I wouldn't buy anything smaller. Bigger is definitely better with mills. Cheers Rob
+NeonStorm5 When considering buying machinery, I always do a search of the Internet to see what problems are linked to the model in question. Eg Google "MMD-45 mill problem". Always finds something. eg. www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mmd-45-mill-185527 Cheers Rob
I have never tried advancing the carriage by hand (for long sections), but it would only work if you can maintain a consistent coarse feed rate to keep the pattern uniform (easier said than done). Obviously auto feed ensures the feed rate is constant and is the preferred method.. Cheers Rob
What kind of oil do you mix your cutting fluid from? Presumably something non-detergent, any idea on what kind of viscosity I should go for? Also, what do you favour for cleaning and oiling your ways?
+Rob Mckennie Hi Rob. I just use 4 parts kerosene to one part SAE 20-40 car engine oil. It smokes quite a bit compared to water based coolant/lube. I got the idea off of the net many years ago. I use plain car engine oil on my ways as well, to wash away the rubbish. Some people with health issues use canola oil as it's non allergenic/toxic. That's basically what chainsaw oil is I believe. I don't like heavy way oil as it just holds the crap/grit and turns into a grinding paste. Cheers Rob
+Rob Mckennie Most car engine crankcases over the years have been made of cast iron, and the same for the cylinder heads. Whoever told you that must be a bit clueless. There is a slight possibility that it can pit bronze bushes, but in all my years working on engines/gearboxes, and having a mechanic father, I've never seen any evidence of it happening. I use it in my quick change gearbox on the lathe as well, and all is well. Cheers Rob
+Mike Gidley No. It's the same process, just different feed direction. We are so used to feeding towards the chuck, it seems foreign, but with modern lathes you can feed in both directions OK. Cheers Rob
Note in the video, I start the lathe and feed the knurl into the job up to the crown. The depth of compression has already been set OFF OF the job (using only finger pressure). See my previous video on how to do this. You DO NOT crush the knurl down manually into the crown with a shifter as some machinists try to do. That is NOT the way it's done - a great way to stuff the knurl adjusting thread and is totally un-necessary. For excellent information on knurling, read the following pdf file: www.reed-machinery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/knurls-and-knurling-tech-data-master.pdf Cheers Rob
help full tips never use live centers as the pressure will ware out bearings faster throwing off tolerances on other jobs. always use dead centers. to help keep rod from shifting in chuck, center drill both ends and use double dead centers in a face plate with dog tails rather than using the universal scroll. slower rpms are best for knurling jobs it helps for beginners to see what they're doing better. multiple passes helps to prevent rod stretch and or tool damage. take a .005 pass 3 times from last zero.
“To help keep the rod from shifting in chuck, center drill both ends and use double dead centers in a faceplate with dog tails rather than using the universal scroll” - some guy who thinks I’m so gullible that I’ll believe that you aren’t trolling me.
Good tutorial Rob. Thx for the tips. regards from the UK
G'day mate. I like your knurling tool and i hope to make a copy of it reasonably soon. Thanks for the tips.
Rob. Thanks for another informative video. Tip on knurling aluminium will come in handy. Cheers Mick
+Mick Doherty
Hi Mick.
Knurling aluminium is easy, just watch out for creep.
Cheers Rob
Back in the early 1950s, my dad chucked up the pistons out of an International Harvester pickup and knurled them so they would fit the worn bore. Got rid of a lot of the piston slap.
+Thomas Coughran
Now that's a bodge I've never heard of. Great idea - for a while.
Thanks for posting.
Cheers Rob
My Harley had knurled pistons in it when I took it apart for rebuild.
good vid and nice tip about knurling soft material
I usually just build up the pressure over a couple of passes. It works for me. On brass I use compressed air to blow away the chips. No cutting fluid. Thanks for another interesting video.
+John Creasey
Hi John.
I also don't use lube on brass. I do use it on aluminium and steel though.
I actually don't really like turning brass, not because it's a bad metal, it's actually very beautiful, but because of those damn tiny sharp brass splinters you always get.
Always seem to get a few under my skin.
Cheers Rob
Very good video, Rob. Great tips on knurling. Especially the tips on knurling Aluminum.
Happy New Year down under!
+Herb Blair
Thanks Herb. All the best for you and yours,
Cheers Rob
What tip was it for aluminum? I keep missing it.
Nice one, Rob. I was checking out TH-cam before whacking that retaining pin a lot harder. Just what I wanted. 😲 😊
You mind sharing the size of your lathe? Center to center
Beautiful knurling btw
It's a 10 x 18 Chinese lathe. So center to center is 18 inches. Cheers Rob
love your vids, keep em coming
Thanks for the video some great information.
nice job. i need to do some knurling on my lathe.
Can you hold the Knurling tool by hand and knurl? Cheers
No.
You machine steel without constant lube?
Yes of course.
can i use it for wood? in particular.. making acorn Christmas Ornaments.
I've never tried or heard of that, but it may be possible. Try it and see. Cheers Rob
great tips for my apprenticeship m8!
I just purchased my first lathe 3 days ago, it's a paramount badged Lantaine LAM 350B from 1980, your videos are great and I can't wait to try out some of your beginner tips, hopefully I don't knurl my fingers;) can you advise on what oil I can use in the quick change and headstock bearings?
+Neds Head
It would probably run fine on car engine oil, but there may be a specific type/grade of oil the manufacturer specifies.
I recommend you post the question on the following forum, as I'm sure some members have owned Lantaine lathes like yours, and may even have a manual they can copy.
metalworkforums.com/forums/65-METALWORK-FORUM
Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob
Other tutorials I've seen emphasized the importance of the diameter of the blank relative to the knurl size--Did you just wing it or did you skip that part?
+Rick Rose
Hi Rick.
I've done it to the specifications (diameter) for knurl pitch, and like most people I've talked to, it makes stuff all difference.
I just chuck it up and knurl away - the results are always good.
If you want to do it to spec go right ahead, but I've yet to see any difference in outcome.
Cheers Rob
+Rick Rose
I should add that if you get into really coarse pitch knurling, then it is advisable to do it the technically correct way, as the pattern may not align correctly on overlap.
Rob
Hi Rob, nice work! Is HBM a well known brand? I have seen it locally, I thought it was from China?
+PuchMaxi1988
I bought it from a web store in the UK. Pretty sure it's made in China like every thing else (nearly).
HBM is fairly well known in the UK I believe.
It's reasonable quality for the money. I have bought other HBM stuff, but can't remember what - maybe mill cutters.
LOL. Brain fade.
Cheers Rob
+PuchMaxi1988 yup its china
its a store, herman buitelaar machines
netherlands, moordrecht
How much are you taking at a time .010?
You are not "taking" anything. You are crushing the work piece with the knurl wheels.
Rob, I'm thinking of buying the MMD-45 mill from Paramount Browns, what is your opinion on these machines, are they good value for money?
+NeonStorm5
I don't have any experience with that mill, although I have looked at them fairly closely as I did consider buying a mill once.
Seems solid enough, has a decent dovetail column. Some slop in the controls, like all cheap machinery.
That's probably the model I would buy, as it's about the right price range and size to be useful/rigid enough for home use. Lots of places/manufacturers sell a nearly identical model unit - eg. Hare and Forbes.
I wouldn't buy anything smaller.
Bigger is definitely better with mills.
Cheers Rob
+NeonStorm5
When considering buying machinery, I always do a search of the Internet to see what problems are linked to the model in question. Eg Google "MMD-45 mill problem".
Always finds something.
eg. www.woodworkforums.com/f65/mmd-45-mill-185527
Cheers Rob
do you need auto feed to for knurling
I have never tried advancing the carriage by hand (for long sections), but it would only work if you can maintain a consistent coarse feed rate to keep the pattern uniform (easier said than done). Obviously auto feed ensures the feed rate is constant and is the preferred method.. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu thank you for the feedback
You're welcome.
What kind of oil do you mix your cutting fluid from? Presumably something non-detergent, any idea on what kind of viscosity I should go for? Also, what do you favour for cleaning and oiling your ways?
+Rob Mckennie
Hi Rob. I just use 4 parts kerosene to one part SAE 20-40 car engine oil. It smokes quite a bit compared to water based coolant/lube.
I got the idea off of the net many years ago.
I use plain car engine oil on my ways as well, to wash away the rubbish. Some people with health issues use canola oil as it's non allergenic/toxic. That's basically what chainsaw oil is I believe.
I don't like heavy way oil as it just holds the crap/grit and turns into a grinding paste.
Cheers Rob
xynudu is it a good idea to use regular engine oil? I've heard the additives can be bad for the cast iron
+Rob Mckennie
Most car engine crankcases over the years have been made of cast iron, and the same for the cylinder heads.
Whoever told you that must be a bit clueless.
There is a slight possibility that it can pit bronze bushes, but in all my years working on engines/gearboxes, and having a mechanic father, I've never seen any evidence of it happening.
I use it in my quick change gearbox on the lathe as well, and all is well.
Cheers Rob
+Rob Mckennie most older engines are made of cast iron.
Any problems knurling the aluminium towards the tailstock instead of the chuck to stop the creep p.s. I still don't own a Knurl
+Mike Gidley
No. It's the same process, just different feed direction.
We are so used to feeding towards the chuck, it seems foreign, but with modern lathes you can feed in both directions OK.
Cheers Rob
Have you ever knurled a taper ?
No.
Note in the video, I start the lathe and feed the knurl into the job up to the crown. The depth of compression has already been set OFF OF the job (using only finger pressure). See my previous video on how to do this.
You DO NOT crush the knurl down manually into the crown with a shifter as some machinists try to do. That is NOT the way it's done - a great way to stuff the knurl adjusting thread and is totally un-necessary.
For excellent information on knurling, read the following pdf file: www.reed-machinery.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/knurls-and-knurling-tech-data-master.pdf
Cheers Rob
help full tips
never use live centers as the pressure will ware out bearings faster throwing off tolerances on other jobs. always use dead centers.
to help keep rod from shifting in chuck, center drill both ends and use double dead centers in a face plate with dog tails rather than using the universal scroll.
slower rpms are best for knurling jobs it helps for beginners to see what they're doing better.
multiple passes helps to prevent rod stretch and or tool damage. take a .005 pass 3 times from last zero.
“To help keep the rod from shifting in chuck, center drill both ends and use double dead centers in a faceplate with dog tails rather than using the universal scroll”
- some guy who thinks I’m so gullible that I’ll believe that you aren’t trolling me.