Appears to be very quick and a good bang for your buck for that quick hop-up. You can sand the bottom to run shorter tires and add less tooth to your crown gear or more tooth to your pinion to your liking. In all, these are very economically priced for what you get if you like to tune cars. I have been using the stock armature and with tunes, it is very quick as well. Yes those brush tubes are tricky, stock, but I still have mine stock. Thanks for your tips and time making your video. Thumbs up!
I had two original release super iii chassis In my box for years that I could never get to run right. I decided to mess with them the for the past few nights. I got one running quite good. For me the culprits were primarily the gears and how the shoes fit on the brush barrels. I put a Lifelike M Chassis rear axle in with some slip on silicones. And that quieted it a bunch. I played with brush tension and checked the armature wasn’t binding. I ended up setting some very fast lap times with it. It was slightly dragging in the back and riding high in the front. I ended up crashing it and breaking the shoe retainer off the front of the chassis. I ordered a bunch of parts and 2 bare chassis to mess with. Meanwhile I rigged the chassis up with a paper clip to hold the shoe but the car lost .5 seconds somehow. I took it completely apart. I put in a 3 ohm arm from a Tyco HPX2. It needed 3 or 4 spacers on the rear. I put the factory AW spacers on the front. I used the HPX2 brushes and I put the tyco HPX2 pinion on plus the Lifelike axle and crown in. It had no balls. I futzed with it for almost 2 hours and traced it to the shoe in one side not making great contact to the brush barrels. Plus the spring was also played out on that side. I tweaked it around best I could and the car TOOK OFF! It set the fastest lap my track ever saw. I also added some Neo disc magnets to the outside of the chassis that are helping the motor magnets. It definitely helped. I think shunts from the shoes to the tubes would be great but not super fun to do. It’s also dead quiet now with different gears. Is it still a super iii? I don’t know but it’s easy to work on and moves good now. I think anybody messing with these cars that wants to help them out is to change the rear gears. It’s dramatic. The motors can run not too badly if you make sure they are getting good contact at the brush tubes and aren’t binding at all , plus oil them often. Auto world cars look great but they aren’t for people who don’t like to tinker.
Yes, never said they were not. Tom just needs to take serious steps to improve all the various chassis. I've been at this a while and have NEVER heard a customer say they got a good one. That is a terrible reputation to have in the hobby.
This is not the AUTO WORLD Oscar started and owned. That came to an end many many years ago. Tom Lowe, who started and completely ruined the name as far as any type of quality in the slot car world other than China made bodies he has nothing to do with the old Auto World brand and name . He went to Oscar and either asked or bought the rights to use the name. Look up the History online under either Playing Mantis or possibly Auto World slot car history.
I've been racing since the late 60s.Most people that buy h.o. slot cars dont have any expectations.They just want to race for awhile and put track in the closet.We as old pros expect more from the mfg but we're not their target the newbies are.
Appears to be very quick and a good bang for your buck for that quick hop-up. You can sand the bottom to run shorter tires and add less tooth to your crown gear or more tooth to your pinion to your liking. In all, these are very economically priced for what you get if you like to tune cars. I have been using the stock armature and with tunes, it is very quick as well. Yes those brush tubes are tricky, stock, but I still have mine stock. Thanks for your tips and time making your video. Thumbs up!
I had two original release super iii chassis In my box for years that I could never get to run right. I decided to mess with them the for the past few nights. I got one running quite good. For me the culprits were primarily the gears and how the shoes fit on the brush barrels. I put a Lifelike M Chassis rear axle in with some slip on silicones. And that quieted it a bunch. I played with brush tension and checked the armature wasn’t binding. I ended up setting some very fast lap times with it. It was slightly dragging in the back and riding high in the front. I ended up crashing it and breaking the shoe retainer off the front of the chassis. I ordered a bunch of parts and 2 bare chassis to mess with. Meanwhile I rigged the chassis up with a paper clip to hold the shoe but the car lost .5 seconds somehow. I took it completely apart. I put in a 3 ohm arm from a Tyco HPX2. It needed 3 or 4 spacers on the rear. I put the factory AW spacers on the front. I used the HPX2 brushes and I put the tyco HPX2 pinion on plus the Lifelike axle and crown in. It had no balls. I futzed with it for almost 2 hours and traced it to the shoe in one side not making great contact to the brush barrels. Plus the spring was also played out on that side. I tweaked it around best I could and the car TOOK OFF! It set the fastest lap my track ever saw. I also added some Neo disc magnets to the outside of the chassis that are helping the motor magnets. It definitely helped. I think shunts from the shoes to the tubes would be great but not super fun to do. It’s also dead quiet now with different gears. Is it still a super iii? I don’t know but it’s easy to work on and moves good now. I think anybody messing with these cars that wants to help them out is to change the rear gears. It’s dramatic. The motors can run not too badly if you make sure they are getting good contact at the brush tubes and aren’t binding at all , plus oil them often. Auto world cars look great but they aren’t for people who don’t like to tinker.
Thank you for the info really keeps the consumers informed.
I wish you would be a little more specific on the upgraded parts that you use.
..."a back pack." LOL Yea, a short wheel base w/ lexan body might get it done.
Have you tried other body types on the super iii or just the ones they say it's for
Thank You!
imho, best upgrade u could do, slap that body on a V-spec! LOL..
It's a shame the AW cars seem to be of such poor quality, because they look fantastic, especially the Indycars.
Good review.
Auto world is still in business,,,,,, Oscar KevoleskiKevoleski
Yes, never said they were not. Tom just needs to take serious steps to improve all the various chassis. I've been at this a while and have NEVER heard a customer say they got a good one. That is a terrible reputation to have in the hobby.
This is not the AUTO WORLD Oscar started and owned. That came to an end many many years ago. Tom Lowe, who started and completely ruined the name as far as any type of quality in the slot car world other than China made bodies he has nothing to do with the old Auto World brand and name . He went to Oscar and either asked or bought the rights to use the name. Look up the History online under either Playing Mantis or possibly Auto World slot car history.
I've been racing since the late 60s.Most people that buy h.o. slot cars dont have any expectations.They just want to race for awhile and put track in the closet.We as old pros expect more from the mfg but we're not their target the newbies are.
Great Video !!! I love that track. What kind is it ?
A slotcar with no intention of running well, is just a reaaaally overpriced Matchbox or Hotwheels car.