Thanks for watching - The acrylic cleaner is a really great product and is certainly worth getting. It is fairly expensive but a bottle of it lasts for ages! Best. Mark
There's only one major problem with it... it's also wonderful for cleaning mirrors and glass and it makes my Apple Mac and TV screen look shiny brand new! So, it ends up being an expensive general house cleaning product! :)
Hi there, we are finding you're channel really helpful as we have just bought a 2nd hand 60 litre Bi orb life. We have realised the air valve tube is blocked and needs replacing. We can't find any information on how to do this.. do we need to empty the tank?
Hi Nichola, Thanks for visiting my channel. Much appreciated. Is it the whole airline you need to replace or is it just the check valve? If it is just the check valve (i.e. one way valve) that's easy! They are cheap to buy, you just need one that fits a 4mm airline such as this: amzn.to/3LmWv2O. You would not need to empty the tank to replace the old check valve with a new one. Just cut the airline above and below the existing check valve and then insert the replacement. If it is the complete airline that needs replacing then that's a bit more problematic - as the area you need to get to, to properly insert the new airline, sits under the tank itself. You would probably be better off emptying the tank fully so that you have full access to the under section and this would allow you to make sure the airline is fitted firmly. You mention the air line (tube) is blocked. You could also see if you can unblock the tube, as most blockage should be reasonably easy to clear though. You never know! :) To do that you would need to use a bicycle pump (with adapter) and insert this at the end of the airline tube. Give the cycle pump a couple of pushes through to see if that clears the blockage. It might do, depending on what is causing the blockage. Most biOrb aquariums have another valve that sits directly under the aquarium. This valve can get stuck in the wrong direction and the use of a cycle pump can help re-set the direction of the valve. You may need to take the air stone out of the tank before blowing the air through the airline. If this approach works you wouldn't need to drain the tank of water. Hopefully, the above covers most things. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
I'm getting quite a build up of detritus at the bottom of my tank at the moment. I tested my water yesterday and the levels are perfect, I rinsed out the filter sponge and did a small water change too. The water is really clear and my fish are very happy. I don't want to go pushing the ceramic media around with the vacuum too much at the moment as we've got about 4/5 platy fry that are thriving so far, and keeping out of harm's way in the media, and last time we had one fry survive but it got trapped in the media and died. Do I need to be concerned about the waste at the bottom? Or as long as my levels are good and the fish are happy can I rest assured all is ok?
Hi. Great to hear from you. If your water parameters are all fine then I would agree to pull off using a vac etc to remove any waste. Accumulation of waste will mainly show-up in your tank nitrate readings. Generally, tank nitrate should be kept below 40ppm, but the lower the better. Fry can also be more sensitive to nitrates than adult fish. My own levels rise to about 15ppm after a week and then I part water change to bring it back down to less than 10ppm. I would tend to advise that a reading of 40ppm should be a good indication that a water change is needed. If your current nitrates fall with the parameters I mention, I think you are fine. Rather than removing waste, you could instead undertake more frequent water changes to keep the tank nitrate levels lower. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
@stepbystepbiorb is there any gravel vacuums you know would work with the Biorb halo? I have a beta fish, ghost shrimp, and a mystery snail in mine. The bottom looks so dirty after 2 months with brown algae growing on everything. When I do partial water changes so much dirt floats up from the bottom.
Hi Nicole. Please see my video on vacs. In this video I conclude on the best vac for a biOrb and, even today, I don't think there is another brand of vac that works so well with the biOrb's ceramic media. These vacs are also really great for doing water changes. They are readily available via Amazon, eBay etc. If you are getting a high build up of waste, in only a couple of months, I think you might also be over-feeding your fish. It is certainly worth reducing the food amount given. Try giving half of what you are currently feeding. With the regular use of a vac (with each weekly water change) and reducing your food you will end up with a clean tank. It might take a couple of weeks before you see the full benefit of doing this. The brown algae (diatoms) are a product of increased nutrients (waste) within your water, but diatoms often tend to form for a while whilst establishing new aquariums. Diatoms and green algae are associated with high nutrient levels - which is likely to be reflected in the amount of nitrates within your aquarium water. Are you testing your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)? Nitrate is something to keep an eye on, and your water changes should aim to keep this below 40ppm to avoid it being detrimental to your beta/shrimp. Diatoms should diminish over time as the tank matures but this may take several months or more. See my video on cleaning with bleach if the diatoms are discolouring plants, decor, ornaments (but do not apply this approach for cleaning ceramic media) Best, Mark
Mark - I am now watching all your videos because they are so helpful. I would be interested in a video on decorating the aquarium. Your aquariums are so beautiful and yet, I have not been able to find any silk or silicone, large, decorations for my tank. Wondering if you can comment on that, as I heard that plastic decorations are not good for the fish because they can hurt themselves on them. Also, your decorations seem to take up the entire floor of the tank, but I have a Cory catfish, and I thought that the catfish needs access to the gravel.
Hi. I will be shortly producing a video on the new 30L loop. Probably next week. I will cover decorating the aquarium in this. My normally guidance is to simply copy (or at least be guided by....) the biOrb glossy catalogues. Oase biOrb spend a fortune on designers for their promotional stuff... so why not copy them? I have (pygmy) cory catfish in three of my tanks and have had them for many years, all do extremely well (I love them!). I've even had occasional production of fry. It depends on the species you have and arguably some cory are not at all suitable for a biOrb. If you have "pygmy" they will spend a lot of their time off the bottom and will happily clean algae etc off (plastic and real plants). I see them more as being a low to mid water species (rather than a "bottom dwelling" species). I am not really sure there is real evidence relating to plastic decoration/plants being "not good for fish" or injuring fish (other than from comments from those companies that sell and promote their sales of real plants). The Internet is full of misleading claims and comments and many of which are driven by product marketing and sales Let me know where you read that. I'm afraid, my experience is totally opposite to that. Best, Mark
Hi, I found this video really useful and have now subscribed to your channel. Could you tell me how you keep your air column so sparkly clean? What do you use to clean it? Thank you
Hi Andrew. Thanks for watching and thank you for supporting the channel. Much appreciated. With new tanks it is quite common for the bubble tube to get dirty (normally with "brown algae" i.e diatoms). As the tank matures it should become far less of a problem (not that it is a real problem... only visual). The best thing to do is to clean the tube under a running tap and to use a brush to gently clean the inside. I always use these cheap brushes as the various sizes mean they cover nearly everything you might want to clean in a biOrb: amzn.to/3CTlFUT. If the bubble tube is really gunky use the bleach cleaning method I describe in my video on 'How to clean plants and decorations'. That approach will certainly get things clean and looking brand new. Always use the biOrb cleaning pads for cleaning plastic and acrylic, and avoid scrubbing with other products as this will degrade decorations, bubble tubes, plastic plants and the aquarium's "glass" over time. However, maintaining a clean tank will really help to limit the amount of dirt that accumulates in the tank. A vac is an absolutely essential tool for maintaining a clean looking biOrb. The only one that works well in a biOrb is this one: amzn.to/3AuQsUR A vac will remove most of the food/fish waste held under the ceramic media. Waste under the media will slowly release nutrients that will promote diatom growth. Undertaking regular water changes (weekly) will also help to reduce nutrients (nitrate) in the water that would otherwise build-up over time. I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
Hi Johnny. They tend to get a bit mucky in use and will tend to look a brown colour. As the airstone begins to get blocked-up you will begin to see the air bubbles decrease in number (often bubbles can be fewer but larger in size). How often you change is part dictated by your water quality and also the number of fish you have - i.e. how much waste is created and/or how much algae develops. I tend to change mine every two months (or at least check if a change is needed by then). Three months, and longer, does seem a bit too long to me and this may risk adding too much pressure on your air pump. Also, if you change them more frequently you might be able to regenerate them by soaking in diluted bleach solution (same dilution as described in my cleaning with bleach video). Follow that with a soak in hot water and a quick scrub with a nail brush or similar. I do need to add that I haven't really found much difference between the biOrb airstones and the ones produced by companies such as Finest-Filters, which are far cheaper and, at the reduced price, are perhaps a better solution if you would like to change them more frequently. Hope that helps. M
Hiya hope you are well and your fish too :) I was wondering if you have any information on the use of hydrogen peroxide in a fish tank please? I wanted to know if it can be used to remove diatoms, can it be used to remove tank fungus whilst fish are still in the tank and if it can be used to sterilise a used tank, pearl media, filter, plants, stones etc to prepare a tank to start again? Thanks for your help. No rush to reply.
Hi Victoria. The use of hydrogen peroxide has been gaining traction over the past few years (and more). It can be used for a broad range of scenarios, and for all those you are asking about. For cleaning equipment, cleaning biOrb plastic plants, sculptures or for cleaning out empty aquariums it generally performs the same role as the bleach cleaning method I describe in my previous video. But, arguably, similar levels of cleaning can be achieved simply - with hot chlorinated tap water! When doing cleaning with fish still-in the aquariums it certainly is more beneficial (safer) than bleach. I would never apply bleach to an aquarium with fish in!!! So, it can also be used with fish in scenarios, but also for undertaking deep cleaning (fish-out!). The really IMPORTANT thing it to ensure the dose applied is appropriate to deal with what it is intended for. The recommended doses for correct use and for specific scenarios seems to vary a fair bit though! I suggest you having a read though the following: www.theaquariumwiki.com/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide. and this one: bulkperoxide.com/using-hydrogen-peroxide-to-clean-your-aquariums-a-comprehensive-guide/ Do I use it? Basically No! In terms of algae and diatom control, the use of hydrogen peroxide and bleach provides a relatively short term fix. It will not stop re-growth over time. The growth of algae etc is a reflection of nutrients in your tap water and the tank. To remove disease etc.... yes, cleaning with hydrogen peroxide or bleach is the way to go. All of the things you mention I would personally deal with in slightly different ways. Always happy to help. Hope that helps. M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you so much, that’s great. When sterilising an old tank for new use. I’m getting from the reply, you would use diluted bleach (as per bleach vid) What can be bleached? Everything accept air stone and pearl media?
Hey. Yes, if it was me, I would use my diluted bleach/soak method for everything (except the pearl media). So, bleach dilution for plastic plants, decor, air stone and sculpture.I would empty the whole tank and then use a cloth dipped in the diluted bleach to clean the insides of the tank. It only needs to be a damp cloth rather than one dripping with bleach solution. Use tap water with a double dose of dechlorinator to finish off cleaning the inside of the tank. With the ceramic media, assuming you are not planning to maintain the beneficial bacteria, I would put that in a bucket and then pour over freshly boiled water that has been treated with dechlorinator. Just leave the media to soak until the water has cooled. Very hot water will sterilise the media.
Lol!! I mainly learn by past mistakes, so have my own "what not to do" and "what to do" list in my head. :). Going back to your original question about using hydrogen peroxide to deal with diatoms/algae in a tank with fish. Yes, it can certainly be used... but with caution. Good sized water changes (50%+) must be undertaken directly after its use. The key concern would be that hydrogen peroxide kills living cells and therefore can have a negative impact within the gill lining of fish. The reason to undertake large water changes is to limit the exposure of hydrogen peroxide to fish. Controlling tank nutrients and undertaking regular water changes are generally the best "non-chemical" way to limit diatoms/algae. I hope you manage to get you tank clean and then back-up and running. M
Hi M. The brown algae has grown back quite quickly. Do you think that’s normal? Secondly, I’ve noticed my Minnow favouring a particular place in the tank which seems to be towards the top by a plant. They are not coming up for air. Do you think there is anything going on there? Or they just like being in one place? They do move to other areas sometimes.
Hi V. I'm afraid brown algae (diatoms) are a bit like that. They often form part of the cycling process and take advantage of the conditions in a newly set-up tank (in most cases!). So, see them as a sign that things are going well! They tend to reflect an imbalance in the aquarium... which is very typical scenario in an aquarium settling down after cycling - it can takes many months for a tank to fully stabilise (6 -12 months!). But, keep an eye on nitrate (nutrient) levels as it is a major food source for diatoms. Water changes are one of the best ways to limit brown algae growth (through reducing nutrient) and also keeping feed and waste low. Use a high light settings too... they tend to do well in lower light. If it helps.... I'm also dealing with them in the new 60L I have (I did a bleach clean of plants and decorations yesterday - phew, my tank is back to looking like new again). My other tanks are all mature so diatoms are not really a problem in those anymore. It is only fish with a labyrinth organ ("lung") that can take air from the surface (such as betta, dwarf gourami) as most fish take oxygen directly from the water itself. I wouldn't expect other species, such as minnow, to come up to the surface - unless to get food or in a scenario where oxygen supply is not high enough (as oxygen is higher towards the surface) Fish tend to have a preference for where they like to hang out (and especially young fish). They may often congregate in a particular area they prefer (for safety!) - I think that is probably what your are seeing. I currently have some young harlequin rasboras and they all hide in a particular spot in the tank - when they get to adult size they will be more confident is swimming around. I don't think you have anything to worry about - just the ugly brown algae! Mx
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for the very detailed helpful response! Is there anything you don’t know?! Haha. They definitely spend some time at the bottom and middle too, just tend to go back to the same spot. It does happen to generally be the two smallest baby fish that go there! So interesting that you’ve said that about confidence. I’m waiting to see if I have any breeding in the tank at some point. How long have you had your tanks?
Anytime! It's always a pleasure! :) My oldest biOrb is about 4 years old now. But, I have had aquariums in the past and my father had an aquarium. So, I sort of grew up with them. BTW, biOrbs are not the easiest of aquariums to have... Bigger, traditional aquariums, are far easier! I'm also an environmental scientist/biologist with a background in fishy and watery things! It all helps! Younger fish will all tend to congregate in "safer" locations as it is in their DNA to do so (it is what they do naturally in the wild). They will always act "wild" even in an extremely safe aquarium with no predators what so ever! Lol.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Wow! Is that what you do for a living currently? I would imagine that is very interesting. I really am loving my BiOrb, even though the brown algae is a pain. I have a new pair of aquarium rubber gloves which come up my arms, I really like them! I would be interested in a brown and green algae video (if you wanted some video ideas hahah) all the best. V.
Hey. Yes, still a senior environmental manager (my real job). I suppose it is interesting as it is the thing I like to do. Lol. I will add a green/brown algae to the list of videos I need to do. Really great to hear from you on something you would like covered. As I mentioned, most people go through the brown and then green algae scenarios so it would be good to cover the subject of that, if nothing else, so that people don't panic when their tank starts to show these. M x
Worried this channel is starting to become a sales outlet for biorb now with the last couple of posts. I think its great that biorb have taken notice and reached out to your to demo their products but it does feel a bit like a "hidden ad" be good to see you go back to your older style content.
Hi Will. Thanks so much for your comments, but this isn't the intention. Hopefully, the Channel and all its videos, has given a reasonably balanced review of a whole range of products over the past 8 months (such as ATM Colony - as a complete alternative to aquarium cycling than biOrb's own method - vacuum cleaners, alternative biOrb (cheaper) products such as sponge filters, air stones, filter medium products and additives etc). But, at the end of the day, the Channel is indeed about biOrb products and is aimed at helping owners of these aquariums. It is difficult to talk about anything else and it could always be argued that it unintentionally acts as a sales outlet (i.e. promotes) biOrb. The Channel has no connection with biOrb other than them kindly sending samples of their products. I'd be very happy to branch out to do coverage of other aquariums such as the Fluval Edge 46L (a stunning tank by the way) but then it becomes a Channel that isn't about biOrbs anymore (it becomes a review Channel all about "other" small aquariums). If biOrb products are good, then I'm happy to say so, if they are bad, I'm also happy to say so. But, in terms of this particular video, I'm not convinced there are other products out there that perform any better than biOrb's cleaning pads or gloss polish (and I've used those ever since I got my first biOrb). If biOrb, or any other manufacturer, want to send me free products then I would be happy to describe them and also offer them to Subscribers in the way I have done. BTW, biOrb didn't offer products for me to demo on the Channel or even offer out to Subscribers - it has been my choice to do that with the products they have provided. The recent product videos have been done to act as a description of products offered in the Prize Draws. Sorry if you feel the Channel has lost its way but I'm not sure it has. Best wishes, Mark.
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Useful vídeo with Biorb products that increase the aquarium view quality!
Many thanks Goncalo and thanks for watching.
Great TH-cam channel, and brilliant video!
Thank you very much! Much appreciated. Best wishes, Mark
Thank you I didn't know about the acrylic cleaner. Going to order for my new 60l cube.
Thanks for watching - The acrylic cleaner is a really great product and is certainly worth getting. It is fairly expensive but a bottle of it lasts for ages! Best. Mark
There's only one major problem with it... it's also wonderful for cleaning mirrors and glass and it makes my Apple Mac and TV screen look shiny brand new! So, it ends up being an expensive general house cleaning product! :)
Another great video
I use the cleaning pads and the polish for the outside of my Biorbs.
Many thanks Donna. They are both products that I use all the time. Thanks again for your support... much appreciated. KRs, Mark
Thanks for the video. I didn’t know about the external acrylic cleaner, sounds useful.
Glad you liked it. Yes, the high gloss polish is a really great product. Works a treat! M
Always helpful... thanks mate
No problem 👍. Much appreciated
Hi there, we are finding you're channel really helpful as we have just bought a 2nd hand 60 litre Bi orb life. We have realised the air valve tube is blocked and needs replacing. We can't find any information on how to do this.. do we need to empty the tank?
Hi Nichola, Thanks for visiting my channel. Much appreciated.
Is it the whole airline you need to replace or is it just the check valve? If it is just the check valve (i.e. one way valve) that's easy! They are cheap to buy, you just need one that fits a 4mm airline such as this: amzn.to/3LmWv2O. You would not need to empty the tank to replace the old check valve with a new one. Just cut the airline above and below the existing check valve and then insert the replacement.
If it is the complete airline that needs replacing then that's a bit more problematic - as the area you need to get to, to properly insert the new airline, sits under the tank itself. You would probably be better off emptying the tank fully so that you have full access to the under section and this would allow you to make sure the airline is fitted firmly.
You mention the air line (tube) is blocked. You could also see if you can unblock the tube, as most blockage should be reasonably easy to clear though. You never know! :)
To do that you would need to use a bicycle pump (with adapter) and insert this at the end of the airline tube. Give the cycle pump a couple of pushes through to see if that clears the blockage. It might do, depending on what is causing the blockage. Most biOrb aquariums have another valve that sits directly under the aquarium. This valve can get stuck in the wrong direction and the use of a cycle pump can help re-set the direction of the valve. You may need to take the air stone out of the tank before blowing the air through the airline. If this approach works you wouldn't need to drain the tank of water.
Hopefully, the above covers most things.
I hope that helps.
Best wishes, Mark
I'm getting quite a build up of detritus at the bottom of my tank at the moment. I tested my water yesterday and the levels are perfect, I rinsed out the filter sponge and did a small water change too. The water is really clear and my fish are very happy.
I don't want to go pushing the ceramic media around with the vacuum too much at the moment as we've got about 4/5 platy fry that are thriving so far, and keeping out of harm's way in the media, and last time we had one fry survive but it got trapped in the media and died.
Do I need to be concerned about the waste at the bottom? Or as long as my levels are good and the fish are happy can I rest assured all is ok?
Hi. Great to hear from you. If your water parameters are all fine then I would agree to pull off using a vac etc to remove any waste. Accumulation of waste will mainly show-up in your tank nitrate readings. Generally, tank nitrate should be kept below 40ppm, but the lower the better. Fry can also be more sensitive to nitrates than adult fish. My own levels rise to about 15ppm after a week and then I part water change to bring it back down to less than 10ppm. I would tend to advise that a reading of 40ppm should be a good indication that a water change is needed. If your current nitrates fall with the parameters I mention, I think you are fine. Rather than removing waste, you could instead undertake more frequent water changes to keep the tank nitrate levels lower. Hope that helps. Best, Mark
@stepbystepbiorb is there any gravel vacuums you know would work with the Biorb halo? I have a beta fish, ghost shrimp, and a mystery snail in mine. The bottom looks so dirty after 2 months with brown algae growing on everything. When I do partial water changes so much dirt floats up from the bottom.
Hi Nicole. Please see my video on vacs. In this video I conclude on the best vac for a biOrb and, even today, I don't think there is another brand of vac that works so well with the biOrb's ceramic media. These vacs are also really great for doing water changes. They are readily available via Amazon, eBay etc. If you are getting a high build up of waste, in only a couple of months, I think you might also be over-feeding your fish. It is certainly worth reducing the food amount given. Try giving half of what you are currently feeding. With the regular use of a vac (with each weekly water change) and reducing your food you will end up with a clean tank. It might take a couple of weeks before you see the full benefit of doing this. The brown algae (diatoms) are a product of increased nutrients (waste) within your water, but diatoms often tend to form for a while whilst establishing new aquariums. Diatoms and green algae are associated with high nutrient levels - which is likely to be reflected in the amount of nitrates within your aquarium water. Are you testing your water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate)? Nitrate is something to keep an eye on, and your water changes should aim to keep this below 40ppm to avoid it being detrimental to your beta/shrimp. Diatoms should diminish over time as the tank matures but this may take several months or more. See my video on cleaning with bleach if the diatoms are discolouring plants, decor, ornaments (but do not apply this approach for cleaning ceramic media) Best, Mark
Mark - I am now watching all your videos because they are so helpful. I would be interested in a video on decorating the aquarium. Your aquariums are so beautiful and yet, I have not been able to find any silk or silicone, large, decorations for my tank. Wondering if you can comment on that, as I heard that plastic decorations are not good for the fish because they can hurt themselves on them. Also, your decorations seem to take up the entire floor of the tank, but I have a Cory catfish, and I thought that the catfish needs access to the gravel.
Hi. I will be shortly producing a video on the new 30L loop. Probably next week. I will cover decorating the aquarium in this. My normally guidance is to simply copy (or at least be guided by....) the biOrb glossy catalogues. Oase biOrb spend a fortune on designers for their promotional stuff... so why not copy them? I have (pygmy) cory catfish in three of my tanks and have had them for many years, all do extremely well (I love them!). I've even had occasional production of fry. It depends on the species you have and arguably some cory are not at all suitable for a biOrb. If you have "pygmy" they will spend a lot of their time off the bottom and will happily clean algae etc off (plastic and real plants). I see them more as being a low to mid water species (rather than a "bottom dwelling" species). I am not really sure there is real evidence relating to plastic decoration/plants being "not good for fish" or injuring fish (other than from comments from those companies that sell and promote their sales of real plants). The Internet is full of misleading claims and comments and many of which are driven by product marketing and sales Let me know where you read that. I'm afraid, my experience is totally opposite to that. Best, Mark
Hi, I found this video really useful and have now subscribed to your channel. Could you tell me how you keep your air column so sparkly clean? What do you use to clean it? Thank you
Hi Andrew. Thanks for watching and thank you for supporting the channel. Much appreciated.
With new tanks it is quite common for the bubble tube to get dirty (normally with "brown algae" i.e diatoms). As the tank matures it should become far less of a problem (not that it is a real problem... only visual). The best thing to do is to clean the tube under a running tap and to use a brush to gently clean the inside. I always use these cheap brushes as the various sizes mean they cover nearly everything you might want to clean in a biOrb: amzn.to/3CTlFUT. If the bubble tube is really gunky use the bleach cleaning method I describe in my video on 'How to clean plants and decorations'. That approach will certainly get things clean and looking brand new. Always use the biOrb cleaning pads for cleaning plastic and acrylic, and avoid scrubbing with other products as this will degrade decorations, bubble tubes, plastic plants and the aquarium's "glass" over time.
However, maintaining a clean tank will really help to limit the amount of dirt that accumulates in the tank. A vac is an absolutely essential tool for maintaining a clean looking biOrb. The only one that works well in a biOrb is this one: amzn.to/3AuQsUR
A vac will remove most of the food/fish waste held under the ceramic media. Waste under the media will slowly release nutrients that will promote diatom growth. Undertaking regular water changes (weekly) will also help to reduce nutrients (nitrate) in the water that would otherwise build-up over time.
I hope that helps. Best wishes, Mark
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you so much Mark for such a prompt and detailed reply. I will try these tips. Much appreciated. 😀
How do you know when your airstone needs replacing? They say it lasts from 3 months to 3 years.
Hi Johnny. They tend to get a bit mucky in use and will tend to look a brown colour. As the airstone begins to get blocked-up you will begin to see the air bubbles decrease in number (often bubbles can be fewer but larger in size). How often you change is part dictated by your water quality and also the number of fish you have - i.e. how much waste is created and/or how much algae develops. I tend to change mine every two months (or at least check if a change is needed by then). Three months, and longer, does seem a bit too long to me and this may risk adding too much pressure on your air pump. Also, if you change them more frequently you might be able to regenerate them by soaking in diluted bleach solution (same dilution as described in my cleaning with bleach video). Follow that with a soak in hot water and a quick scrub with a nail brush or similar. I do need to add that I haven't really found much difference between the biOrb airstones and the ones produced by companies such as Finest-Filters, which are far cheaper and, at the reduced price, are perhaps a better solution if you would like to change them more frequently. Hope that helps. M
Hiya hope you are well and your fish too :) I was wondering if you have any information on the use of hydrogen peroxide in a fish tank please? I wanted to know if it can be used to remove diatoms, can it be used to remove tank fungus whilst fish are still in the tank and if it can be used to sterilise a used tank, pearl media, filter, plants, stones etc to prepare a tank to start again? Thanks for your help. No rush to reply.
Hi Victoria. The use of hydrogen peroxide has been gaining traction over the past few years (and more). It can be used for a broad range of scenarios, and for all those you are asking about.
For cleaning equipment, cleaning biOrb plastic plants, sculptures or for cleaning out empty aquariums it generally performs the same role as the bleach cleaning method I describe in my previous video. But, arguably, similar levels of cleaning can be achieved simply - with hot chlorinated tap water!
When doing cleaning with fish still-in the aquariums it certainly is more beneficial (safer) than bleach. I would never apply bleach to an aquarium with fish in!!! So, it can also be used with fish in scenarios, but also for undertaking deep cleaning (fish-out!).
The really IMPORTANT thing it to ensure the dose applied is appropriate to deal with what it is intended for. The recommended doses for correct use and for specific scenarios seems to vary a fair bit though!
I suggest you having a read though the following: www.theaquariumwiki.com/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide. and this one: bulkperoxide.com/using-hydrogen-peroxide-to-clean-your-aquariums-a-comprehensive-guide/
Do I use it? Basically No! In terms of algae and diatom control, the use of hydrogen peroxide and bleach provides a relatively short term fix. It will not stop re-growth over time. The growth of algae etc is a reflection of nutrients in your tap water and the tank. To remove disease etc.... yes, cleaning with hydrogen peroxide or bleach is the way to go.
All of the things you mention I would personally deal with in slightly different ways.
Always happy to help.
Hope that helps. M
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you so much, that’s great. When sterilising an old tank for new use. I’m getting from the reply, you would use diluted bleach (as per bleach vid) What can be bleached? Everything accept air stone and pearl media?
Hey. Yes, if it was me, I would use my diluted bleach/soak method for everything (except the pearl media). So, bleach dilution for plastic plants, decor, air stone and sculpture.I would empty the whole tank and then use a cloth dipped in the diluted bleach to clean the insides of the tank. It only needs to be a damp cloth rather than one dripping with bleach solution. Use tap water with a double dose of dechlorinator to finish off cleaning the inside of the tank. With the ceramic media, assuming you are not planning to maintain the beneficial bacteria, I would put that in a bucket and then pour over freshly boiled water that has been treated with dechlorinator. Just leave the media to soak until the water has cooled. Very hot water will sterilise the media.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb thank you so much 😊 is there anything you don’t know?! 😛
Lol!! I mainly learn by past mistakes, so have my own "what not to do" and "what to do" list in my head. :). Going back to your original question about using hydrogen peroxide to deal with diatoms/algae in a tank with fish. Yes, it can certainly be used... but with caution. Good sized water changes (50%+) must be undertaken directly after its use. The key concern would be that hydrogen peroxide kills living cells and therefore can have a negative impact within the gill lining of fish. The reason to undertake large water changes is to limit the exposure of hydrogen peroxide to fish. Controlling tank nutrients and undertaking regular water changes are generally the best "non-chemical" way to limit diatoms/algae. I hope you manage to get you tank clean and then back-up and running. M
Hi M. The brown algae has grown back quite quickly. Do you think that’s normal? Secondly, I’ve noticed my Minnow favouring a particular place in the tank which seems to be towards the top by a plant. They are not coming up for air. Do you think there is anything going on there? Or they just like being in one place? They do move to other areas sometimes.
Hi V. I'm afraid brown algae (diatoms) are a bit like that. They often form part of the cycling process and take advantage of the conditions in a newly set-up tank (in most cases!). So, see them as a sign that things are going well! They tend to reflect an imbalance in the aquarium... which is very typical scenario in an aquarium settling down after cycling - it can takes many months for a tank to fully stabilise (6 -12 months!). But, keep an eye on nitrate (nutrient) levels as it is a major food source for diatoms.
Water changes are one of the best ways to limit brown algae growth (through reducing nutrient) and also keeping feed and waste low. Use a high light settings too... they tend to do well in lower light.
If it helps.... I'm also dealing with them in the new 60L I have (I did a bleach clean of plants and decorations yesterday - phew, my tank is back to looking like new again). My other tanks are all mature so diatoms are not really a problem in those anymore.
It is only fish with a labyrinth organ ("lung") that can take air from the surface (such as betta, dwarf gourami) as most fish take oxygen directly from the water itself. I wouldn't expect other species, such as minnow, to come up to the surface - unless to get food or in a scenario where oxygen supply is not high enough (as oxygen is higher towards the surface)
Fish tend to have a preference for where they like to hang out (and especially young fish). They may often congregate in a particular area they prefer (for safety!) - I think that is probably what your are seeing. I currently have some young harlequin rasboras and they all hide in a particular spot in the tank - when they get to adult size they will be more confident is swimming around.
I don't think you have anything to worry about - just the ugly brown algae! Mx
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Thanks for the very detailed helpful response! Is there anything you don’t know?! Haha. They definitely spend some time at the bottom and middle too, just tend to go back to the same spot. It does happen to generally be the two smallest baby fish that go there! So interesting that you’ve said that about confidence. I’m waiting to see if I have any breeding in the tank at some point. How long have you had your tanks?
Anytime! It's always a pleasure! :) My oldest biOrb is about 4 years old now. But, I have had aquariums in the past and my father had an aquarium. So, I sort of grew up with them. BTW, biOrbs are not the easiest of aquariums to have... Bigger, traditional aquariums, are far easier! I'm also an environmental scientist/biologist with a background in fishy and watery things! It all helps!
Younger fish will all tend to congregate in "safer" locations as it is in their DNA to do so (it is what they do naturally in the wild). They will always act "wild" even in an extremely safe aquarium with no predators what so ever! Lol.
@@StepbyStep-biOrb Wow! Is that what you do for a living currently? I would imagine that is very interesting. I really am loving my BiOrb, even though the brown algae is a pain. I have a new pair of aquarium rubber gloves which come up my arms, I really like them! I would be interested in a brown and green algae video (if you wanted some video ideas hahah) all the best. V.
Hey. Yes, still a senior environmental manager (my real job). I suppose it is interesting as it is the thing I like to do. Lol. I will add a green/brown algae to the list of videos I need to do. Really great to hear from you on something you would like covered. As I mentioned, most people go through the brown and then green algae scenarios so it would be good to cover the subject of that, if nothing else, so that people don't panic when their tank starts to show these. M x
Thanks for sharing such great info!
Love it! New subscriber!
Please come and connect!
Have a great day, my dear friend!
Thank you, I will
Worried this channel is starting to become a sales outlet for biorb now with the last couple of posts. I think its great that biorb have taken notice and reached out to your to demo their products but it does feel a bit like a "hidden ad" be good to see you go back to your older style content.
Hi Will. Thanks so much for your comments, but this isn't the intention. Hopefully, the Channel and all its videos, has given a reasonably balanced review of a whole range of products over the past 8 months (such as ATM Colony - as a complete alternative to aquarium cycling than biOrb's own method - vacuum cleaners, alternative biOrb (cheaper) products such as sponge filters, air stones, filter medium products and additives etc). But, at the end of the day, the Channel is indeed about biOrb products and is aimed at helping owners of these aquariums. It is difficult to talk about anything else and it could always be argued that it unintentionally acts as a sales outlet (i.e. promotes) biOrb. The Channel has no connection with biOrb other than them kindly sending samples of their products. I'd be very happy to branch out to do coverage of other aquariums such as the Fluval Edge 46L (a stunning tank by the way) but then it becomes a Channel that isn't about biOrbs anymore (it becomes a review Channel all about "other" small aquariums). If biOrb products are good, then I'm happy to say so, if they are bad, I'm also happy to say so. But, in terms of this particular video, I'm not convinced there are other products out there that perform any better than biOrb's cleaning pads or gloss polish (and I've used those ever since I got my first biOrb). If biOrb, or any other manufacturer, want to send me free products then I would be happy to describe them and also offer them to Subscribers in the way I have done. BTW, biOrb didn't offer products for me to demo on the Channel or even offer out to Subscribers - it has been my choice to do that with the products they have provided. The recent product videos have been done to act as a description of products offered in the Prize Draws. Sorry if you feel the Channel has lost its way but I'm not sure it has. Best wishes, Mark.