Massive DIY Solar System
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- We finally get our massive solar system up and running, most of these components we purchased over two years ago. 30 - 380 watt bifacial solar panels get wired into our Powerhouse which holds 8 - EG4 48 volt lifepower server rack batteries and 2 LV6548 inverters. this setup will give us 13,000 watts of power and enough battery storage to make it through some cloudy days.
Watch a Firefighter and a stay at home Mom carve out an Off Grid Homestead in the North Idaho Wilderness. Come along on our journey towards freedom and independence not just for us but many Generations to come, all to the glory of God.
Instagram: / 1kg_homestead
Facebook: profile.php?...
Mailing Address:
Jeff Stewart
105 Vermeer Dr. ste 2-150
Ponderay ID 83852
@WillProwse @SignatureSolar @CanadianSolarInc
#solar #offgridsolar #lv6548 #eg4 #canadainsolar
#northidaho #pnw #homestead #polebarn #rrbuilding #windowinstallation #ibexmetals - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Excellent job.
Thank you very much!
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Thanks
Another way to monitor your system is to use solar assistant with touch screen , great for historical data. I have these LV6548 in spilt phase as well for 18 months now with 30kw batteries and 12 kw of pv. Equipment has changed drastically in a years time. Winter is coming back around. Great job BTW.
Thanks, I have to take a look at that
greetings folks; i have mentioned this before but i will again say how nice it is for ms. amy to ask about the process, as yall go forward, so we can get additional information. sir, you are very blessed to have her, as she seems to be the perfect helpmeet. thank yall for one of the best channels on utube............g
Thanks again, Amy is the BEST and asks the questions that people want to know (even if she already knows the answer 😜)
NOTE = in INDIANA ... Ground RODS are required to be "PAIRED"
TWO (2) 8' long Copper Coated Steel ground rods = 6' feet apart
&
then the TWO Ground Rods are bonded together
&
Finally led into the Ground Bus-Bar in the Circuit Breaker Box
thanks for this excellent VIDEO
COOP
...
Thanks, we are still allowed one rod if it is sufficient. I could always add another rod if the Megger meter shows a high resistance to earth ground.
Awesome detail.....thks
Thank you
Hello, you did a great job. I would only cover the quick disconnect switch, because if someone accidentally trips, which can happen very quickly, you can quickly get an electric shock. I would also cover the two power rails to the right and left of the batteries. My old boss always said "you can't think as stupidly as life goes". We had double-protected everything in our workshop with electricity so that nothing could happen to anyone. Greetings from Berlin
Thanks for the info! the bus bars on the battery rack do have covers. Do you think a cover on the quick disconnect would impede the quick access?
@@1KGoffgridhomesteadThe rotary switch can remain free, but I would cover that in the video to the right where the power is disconnected. I didn't see the cladding of the busbars, sorry
Awesome, this is how you explain stuff, simple and clearly
Thank you
Impressive.
Thank you
Great install and I like where you placed the inverter controls.
One thing that concerns me is the fuse that is less than an inch away from the corner of the metal breaker box.
I need to find the cover for the fuse and have had the same concern, I think I am going to move it.
@@1KGoffgridhomestead great idea.
Great job overall and you should be very proud of what you’ve accomplished.
Thank you
Wow way above my meat cutting skills
Thanks Dad
You should teach a class on power one day 😊
Everything has prepared me for this day. But I do miss teaching. Maybe TH-cam will give me that outlet
When installing your ground rod, you looked like you were hitting your footing.
Otherwise, use a bucket of water to install your ground rods, depending on how rocky the soil is.
It sure did feel like I was hitting concrete. but there is no footing there because of the polebarn construction. just lots of big rocks and shallow bedrock. the water trick works great if you are going through topsoil, I saw someone put a rod in by hand that way once.
One of the most nerve racking things you can do.....turning your solar on for the first time. LOL No smoke.....guess it's working!!!
Nerve racking for sure. all along the way we were checking voltages to be certain we were, for one, safe. but also not wanting to release any smoke. 🤣
Great vid but too bad EG4 doesn't do any active balancing on their batteries. Still wish you guys the best.
Thanks, the manual states that the BMS does balance the cells, would that mean that the master BMS balances the connected batteries? Or just cells within in each battery? Either way there is balancing in the battery setup
@@1KGoffgridhomestead Those would be 100ah cells and each BMS balances at 0.160amps at best so maybe enough depending on your usage of batteries. If you cycle them fully daily, your cells won't be well balanced. This is why I opted for JK BMS with 2A active balancers (with 304ah cells) and diy them into ELL boxes.
I'm not aware of pack balancing functions, but that could easily be written in to the BMS software if it already isn't. Can you access your EG4 BMSs via bluetooth or a can port for more than just firmware updates?
Nice clean looking install. As someone else mentioned about the eg4 comm wires (right to left). How long did it take off camera to figure out the wiring mishap at the breakers? Obviously found or you wouldn't have pv input later. Nice job.
At least those comms wires are easy to fix😄. not sure which mishap you noticed, but we labeled each end of our PV wires and identified positive and negative before we pulled them through the conduit last summer. Thanks for watching and keep the help coming, we are new to this no matter how good the movie magic is.
🇳🇴👍👍
Great to hear from you
WHAT THE..! I wouldn't say it's up and running. lol.. I'm waiting to see 10 to 12,000+ watts coming in. Fire up all the power tools and heaters.. just because you can. Reading the description, Just because you mentioned the wonderful name of GOD, I subscribed. Praise his Holy name. He IS Good\GREAT all the time. Check out "mountains and beaches", they're a little bit older couple that are doing the same thing. Ambition Strikes and several other youtubers are up there too. God bless.. now crank up that solar system. ps. I live close to Stewart state park here in S. Oregon.. and I have relatives with the same last name.
Glad to have you along with us on our journey! God is good and has guided us onto this next chapter in our families life. I will for sure make an update video showing our "max output and input" Thanks for the suggestion
I'm not sure if it matters with those batteries, but according to the manual, you need to wire the RS485 from the right port of the first module to the left port on the second module and so on.
I didn't see that in the EG4 manual but if I have any problem I will give that a try, Thanks
awesome, how many watts are you making though out the day
I'll have to check and let you know in an update video.
Get 6000xp's or just one 18kpv for 12000 watts of power two 6000 gives you 12k plus if one goes down you have a back up. Uses less power than the lv6548's great starter system though. Keep doing great things for your family
Thanks, do you think it would work to add 2 6000xp's to the current system. I wasn't sure if it would work to mix and match.
@@1KGoffgridhomestead The 6000xp's are 120/240V Split Phase, you can start with one.
@@1KGoffgridhomestead Mix would require connecting the 6548 to the AC in (Grid) of the 6000xp
Thanks for the great advice.
@@1KGoffgridhomestead that is good advice. I started with the 6000xp but remember everyone had the lv6548 first then upgraded to 6000xp's. Signature solar had an upgrade program. See if they still have it and you can trade in one for the other.
Great job! Can you please provide the link to that crimper @9:55? Thanks.
Sure thing you can find it on amazon
a.co/d/4tyhq8g
@@1KGoffgridhomestead Thanks! that is not a bad price at all and it seems to work great per your video.
It works great. I did find that I needed to go one size down in the dies from recomended, in order to get a secure crimp.
Very nice installation! I see a few minor issues and one medium issue (at the end).
* Usually you leave the plastic ferrule shields on the ferrules. they will fit in the breakers quite nicely and that way no metal is exposed at all to accidentally short across.
* Also note that the torque wrench will give a false-positive when torquing the breaker screw terminals into the ferruled wire because the terminals have to compress the ferrule sheath before they compress the whole thing.
* If those are M8 bus bars they are probably only rated for 150A or 200A, which is not enough for a rack of EG4 batteries. You want at least 500A bus bars. Consider using a "Victron Lynx Power In" bus.
* (if you haven't already), every M8 or M10 bolt needs a washer and lock-washer. The lock-washer is critical.
* Not sure about that main battery bus disconnect, it doesn't look very beefy to me. Possible fire hazard. But at least you have the individual breakers on the rack-mount batteries.
* Distribution to individual inverters might not be properly fused. Consider something like a "Victron Lynx distributor" (this is like the power-in but includes individual fusing). This can also help avoid having to use ultra-thick 4/0 cabling going to everywhere since the individual inverters don't need 4/0... but that T-Class alone can't protect thinner distribution wiring hence the need for individually-fused distribution wiring to the inverters.
Otherwise looks great! Very clean!
-Matt
Hmm, the ferrules I use don't come with plastic shields, and the few I have used with plastic collars( when properly installed) only cover the insulation. As far as the false positive in torquing ferruled ends into breaker terminals, if it is having to compress the ferruled end to the degree you describe above, then the ferrules were not installed correctly to begin with.
Thank you, That is exactly what my impression was, I have ferrules with and without plastic, and my ferrule crimping tool already compresses the wire more than just putting loose wires into a breaker.
@@heshworksbetter2777 The plastic guards are tapered and the terminals on breakers and just about all other connector types are inset a bit, so the terminal casing will always overlap the guard a little and there is almost never any bare wire showing.
Ferrule crimps are not cold welds, so when clamping down on a ferruled wire inside a terminal the ferrule itself gets mashed and the wire inside gets redistributed. But this also means you have to apply more force than the typical torque spec at the beginning, then apply the correct torque spec after the ferruled wire has conformed to the shape.
Another reason for using the guard is for the same reason you don't tin wires going into terminals. Without the guard the end of the ferrule joint represents a point where the wiring can bend back and forth at the interface and ultimately break. The guard is sleeved over the wire insulation and significantly limits this motion, preventing these sorts of failures.
-Matt
Hey, what crimper model do you use?
It has been a great tool, you can pick it up on Amazon
a.co/d/00bhDXkv