Hack the IKEA Air Quality Sensor: 7-in-1- Full ESPHome Tutorial
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Enhance Your Home Air Quality Monitoring with This DIY Upgrade!
Upgrade your IKEA Vindriktning air quality sensor to a smart device with Home Assistant integration, providing you with
* Real-time data on air quality, temperature, humidity, pressure, CO2, and VOCs
* Improved accuracy with the addition of more sensors
* Centralized monitoring on your Home Assistant dashboard
* Trigger automations based on air quality changes.
* Integration with other smart home devices, such as lights, thermostats, and air purifiers, allowing you to create a more cohesive smart home ecosystem.
Transform your IKEA Air Quality sensor into a powerful tool for monitoring and improving your home's air quality.
Follow this comprehensive guide to:
* Disassemble and prepare the sensor
* Add additional sensors for enhanced coverage
* Solder wires to the sensor board for secure connections
* Flash the sensor with ESPHome firmware for compatibility with Home Assistant
* Configure the sensor in Home Assistant to receive and visualize data
Empower yourself with the knowledge to upgrade your IKEA air quality sensor and gain insights into the air quality of your home.
🎬 THE LINKS - Files / Help / Support:
- 🎁 Project Code: github.com/3ative/IKEA-Air-Qu...
- 🛒 Other files & Merch: store.3ative.com
- 💎 3ATIVE DISCORD: / discord
- ☕ Buy me a Coffee: www.buymeacoffee.com/3ative
- 💕 PATREON: / 3ative
- 💯 Get the Gadgets, Devices and Tools I use: Amazon UK: amzn.to/3uRw8fi
* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Using this link ⇈ provides small monetary support for my channel at no extra cost to you.💖
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:10 Prepare the IKEA sensor
05:46 Extra Sensors
10:38 Connect the D1 Mini
15:20 ESPHome Code
21:36 Reassemble
24:31 Calibrating the Sensors
27:21 Outro
#IKEA #AirQuality #tutorial - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks for all the micro details on soldering techniques. Exactly what we software developers need. 😅
LOL - My pleasure. It's great to hear the "Li'things" are appreciated too.
Best part is this guy is actually good at soldering unlike half the youtubers I see. I used to solder professionally, and his joints all look like good ones, and he solders a lot like me! Although doing through hole soldering on the D1 would have been stronger. (Just twist the wires together before soldering them in.)
@@chadbeardall3660 Thanks man, I really appreciate the compliment(s) and feedback 👍
😎How does this tutorial look? - I've started using a new camera. Lemme know what you think 🙏
Nice, though there was something about the black levels sometimes.
@@SonnellThanks, I'll take a look at my colour profile(s) and levels. 👍
A bit to fast talking.
Aside from that, a very good video!
@@mixmashandtinker3266 Yeah.... not the first time I've had that comment LOL
I do get a li' too excited. 👍
Thanks for taking the time to post feedback thou.
Great video, keep on! Thanks for the tips.
I’m new to hardware (a software engineer) just found this channel and I’m digging it so far
Cool, I'm kinda new to code LOL
Anyway - Welcome to my li'channel, thanks for stopping by - I hope you find some use in it. 👋
I like how you hold everything in your hands, iron, wires, solder, and boards. Not like other diy'ers spending half of video drawing schematics, using 10 "helping hands" board clamps, flux and other stuff. You are straight to business.
Thank you, it's nice to have my technique(s) appreciated. I try to make my tutorials as useful as possible, so yeah... no "faffing about" with showing stuff you don't need. :)
just returned from ikea with my air quality sensor,waiting from extra sensor...my home assistant say thank you! nice job!
LOL Oh that's wonderful to hear. Have fun and enjoy your upgrade.
#StayTuned - I have more coming for this project.
Excellent tutorial! I had mine converted and on my Home Assistant in 20 mins! Thanks so much for the great work!
Superb, did you put all the sensors in?
Very well presented. Even a total dork like myself, was able to follow the instructions and do the hack. Wish I'd found you earlier. Have now subscribed and am looking through your other vids. Thanks.
Thank you @christopherperry8693 for the kind feedback, encouragement and support.
- It is comments like yours that make it all worth-while and I hope my other tutorials are equally useful for you.
amazingly well timed, thanks for the very detailed instructions
You're very welcome!
- "...well timed", do tell me how. 🙏
@@3ATIVEi started watching and reading about 3d printers and the fumes they create, especially resin printers. I then started to wonder and bought an Ecowitt air sensor, it tied into my existing weather station and has good sensor visibility inside Home Assistant......all of this research has now led to me thinking about a full home MVHR system. Im looking to get more cost effective but reliable sensors dotted around the house to initially gather data, then to confirm the MVHR is working effectively.
I liked the graceful slip of the screwdriver under the box lid and flick to open it … classy move! :-)
Thanks - I hate these types of boxes kinda lock the lid in place and you end up ripping it.
Absolutely awesome as always. Thanks heaps 🥂
Oh hey Claire 👋
Thank you for the kind words. I really appreciate the feedback.
Great video dave. I don't have one of these but now i wish i did 😀Hope you get to feeling better.
Thank you duder, glad you liked it.
For what they are they're surprisingly cheap. Prolly one of my fav _"What Can I Put a D1 Mini in Next"_ videos.
This is brilliant, my first time watching one of your videos and you got a subscriber. 👍
Edit: I'm also a left handed Dave!
👋Oh hey-there fella. Welcome to my channel. Thank you so much for the feedback and support.
YAY, Left-Handed Daves rule !!! 🥳 LOL
Thanks for this, GREAT video.
You got yourselve a new subscriber.
Thank you for wonderful feedback AND the support - Both are really appreciated
I am flashing the D1_mini before I start soldering. Makes things so much easier. I also use 30AWG wire for the additional sensors as they do not need a lot of power and so the thin wires are way easier to place in the case. Lastly I use the MH-Z19E for CO2 as I prefer the NDIR sensors over the VOC ones. Makes the package a bit more expensive but I think it is worth the money. And by the way: The D1 mini fits perfectly between the USB plastic and the fan. There you do not need to cut the case.
Oh sure you're free to change or build on what I've shown here - This is my take on the project.
I placed the D1 Mini at the very top as it will produce some heat and didn't want the BME affected by it.
I also tried the MH-Z19 CO2 sensor but found it needed power-cycling every few days and I wasn't too happy with running two UARTs - So switched to the I2C instead.
@3ATIVE that's why I mounted the bme and the mhz-19 to the top chamber where the air intake happens and the d1 mini goes to the exhaust fan where the heat does not matter. So far my mhz ran stable for weeks without any problem. And you are right: your take on it is as valuable as any other. Great work!
@@ftrueckI get ya... My thinking was as that fan blows right out the back of the case, there wouldn't be much air removing heat the D1 Mini could make... leaving it free to "float up" LOL
@@ftrueck I use similar sensors. Mh-z19 co2, separate light sensor, temp/humidity (although sensor is outside because temp inside is warmer than reality) and I put additional rgb led to show co2 level as additional diode. I also moved fan to stable 3V instead of 5V every X seconds. It is much quieter and fan on and off all the time is annoying. But… it doesn’t work well… for some reason, when I have all that connected, it can’t connect to the wifi. It’s enough to disconnect additional sensors and all works great. I can’t debug it myself, tried tons of solutions and can’t work it out… any ideas what could be wrong?
@sierpus I guess it could be a power issue. The 3.3V regulator on a d1 mini is not so strong. If there is too much load it can fail. The wifi can use up to 80mA (burst) when sending data. You could add another 3.3V regulator with sharing the ground only and supply the sensors that way.
Excellent project. Thanks.
Thank you, I hope you find it use/helpful. 🙏
Great, no-nonsense tutorial.
Thank you Derek. I make tutorials the way I like to watch them.. as others have mentioned: " _No Faffing about_ " LOL
I've waited for this video! Thank you! 😀
Hope you enjoyed it! Sorry it took sooo long. 🙏
@@3ATIVEIt's okey! I'm glad you made this video. I've always wanted to make automations with the light sensor in the Vindriktning 😀
Wow - what a discovery your channel is! I love that stuff. Weller for the win, subscribed instantaneous.
Oh yes, WELLER is King. Oh Hail to the Iron. LMAO
Glad you liked my content and thank you for the support - where have you been for the passed few years! 💖
Love your wire stripping method my dude 🤣🤣
LOL Side-Cutters or Fingernail?
Great project. I already have a full plate and you just made it fuller ! I’m an Arduino IDE with Blynk dude so it may take a little extra work.
Sorry about that. I hope me sharing the ESPHome Yaml and that only 1 or 2 lines of code need to be customised will help. Enjoy.
Very very nice!! Thank you for sharing this extensive tutorial, much appreciated!!
👍I'm glad you liked it @ChiMickE. Is there anything you'd like to see next?
Great tutorial! 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you, glad you liked it. I have more to come in this series... #StayTuned
Awesome! My first project with microcontrollers. Took me a few hours to solder and configure. But it worked instantly as expected! Very well done project and instructions!
One complication was, that I am not a left hander so the soldering iron always was on the wrong side of the picture 😂
The other was, that my microcontroller seems to have the chips on the other side of the board, so the cabling was also to be done on the opposite side. But the contact points are labelled so there was no problem to do everything "mirrored".
I also noticed that the "CO2" sensor is no real CO2 sensor, but a T-VOC sensor. It only "estimates" eCO2 based on measured "volatile organic compounds". As a result, when I was preparing meal in the kitchen, the device suggested, that CO2 had risen from 400ppm to 1170ppm although all windows were fully open. This would be a ridiculous value for CO2 under these conditions. But I am sure that only the "organic compounds" had risen due to frying some potatoes (no, nothing got burned 🤣). The T-VOC value had risen from 0 to 335ppb. This seems reasonable.
So, probably the T-VOC values are to be considered real, but the eCO2 values should be neglected.
A real CO2 measurement probably would need a NDIR or PAS sensor. But they would not fit into the IKEA housing.
So, as a summary:
Well done project! Nice!
It's always fantastic to hear my li'tutorials are working for peeps and everything worked first time - _Even if I do show everything 'Back-to-Front' LOL_
You're right, the Co² sensor used is a _'Virtual'_ level device. There's no claim to calibrated or scientific measurements... just an "indication" of air quality. So, should be _good enough_ monitor and take appropriate action - Opening a Window, Etc.
Thank you, impressive soldering skills, I am going to get one now and try and set something similar. Thanks for sharing again cheers
Hey everyone, Bluesaph is here!!! 🥳
LOL, Thnx - I've been soldering for a... (cough-cough) few years !
Have fun with your build. If you have any questions or need anything, feel free to hulla at me.
Yet again Dave another great tut
Only great, I'm slacking. LOL
Cheers fella, glad you like it and hope you find it useful too.
Sorry fantastic, marvellous, exquisite
@@4saykenLMFAO - Better, thanks 💖
Great video. Banana for scale earned yourself a new subscriber here, noice!
LMAO. Thanks fella. I'm glad you liked the tutorial and got the joke. 💖
thank you for great instructional video!!
No problem! I'm glad you liked it. Let me know if there's anything else you want to know!
Light sensor data is on middle test point (LED_R_1 one, next to FAN-). So you do not need to solder wire directly to the sensor.
Thanks for video - did Vindriktning with BMP280, AHT20 and ENS160 today.
Ooo, that's handy - Thanks for info 👍
- Getting the screwdriver out and the iron heated now. 🤣
having never soldered before, nor done anything with ESPHome I took this project on over Christmas break. I did make the change to a sgp30 as I couldn't source yours in the timeframe needed. I didn't do the light sensor, but everything works perfectly 100%. Thanks for the how-to I appreciate a video that makes it feel approachable and not over my head instantly.
Thank you Jason. It's really nice to hear my tutorials are useful. I know some of my videos are a bit fast-paced. So, It's especially nice when new people find them easy to follow.
Hey @laborspy ! Looking to do the same, what adjustments did you need to do for the SGP30?
@@OnlyTiramisu Not much, ESPHome already supports it.
esphome.io/components/sensor/sgp30.html
@@3ATIVE Thanks, I actually set it up using a CCS881! Everything (fan, temp etc...) works apart from particle count, it gives an 'Unknown' value - my D1 is different from yours so I connected REST to Rx but it might not be D7.
Great video and great work, thanks for sharing.
👍I'm glad you liked it @wjn777. Is there anything you'd like to see next?
Nice Project :)
I'm glad you like it and hope you find it useful too.
That's a great idea, I hadn't thought to put a BME and co2 at the same time as the ESP.
Thanks, glad you liked it. I've had these sensors for a while and wanted to use them in something I thought ppl would like to make too.
In the video description, you list a BMP280 as the part used. Ordering and using this fails to see temp / humidity and pressure, and the code on line 74 has to be changed to bmp280, and lines 69 & 79-82 hashed out to allow it to work, but, without the humidity setting. It did my head in for a while, but i worked it out from looking around. a great tutorial, thank you
Good catch, now corrected - thnx. 🙏
However, I do say it's a BME280, so the Amazon listing and ESPHome code are correct. 😊
No worries. I copied the parts from the description into ali express, have ordered a few bme280 to replace the.bmp. Once again, great tutorial ( I left out the light sensor on my setup)
@@digidudeukOh that's cool. Thanks again for the feedback and I'm glad you liked it too.
Nice one!
Thanks!
I hope you find my other tutorials equally useful. 🙏
Nice Vid. I'm gonna get one.
Cool. If you have any questions, just hulla at me. 👋
@@3ATIVE Thanks. I've already got the D1 Mini and the BMP280 kicking around and have ordered the CO2 board. I'll nip down to Ikea in a day or so for the monitor. My biggest struggle is likely to be with ESPHome as I've not used it that much. We'll see how I get on.
@@WINGNUT307Cool. have fun.
@@3ATIVE All done, thanks. The Temp is high and humidity low - probably because they are stuck inside the case with the electronics warming things up despite the air being drawn in. And sometimes the readings go a bit wild - I'll see how that goes. But it was fun.
Thanks for a great tutorial .... One could use an ESP32-C3 Super mini as well - to get a device a bit smaller than the Wemos D1 ..
And thank you for your support. 🙏
Yes, an ESP32-C3 could be used - If you wanted the extra power. As for size, I think the D1 Mini fits in there quite nicely, don't you?
Just ordered 4 ikea sensors and a bunch of D1 minis to start building. Going to be building this and adding one more sensor to it as well, mmwave.
Cool, I hope you have fun and all goes well.
What the hell side of TH-cam did I just trip me bollocks over? You guys are wild, I love it
LMAO - Welcome to our side.
I hope you find some of my tutorials help/useful and maybe they'll inspire you to join us. 🤞
Great tutorial as usual!! Much thanks
Have you ever consider to use or hear about the ENS160+AHT21 sensors? Thats already contain all air quality sensor and temp+humi sensor.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it... You did "LIKE" it, I hope. LOL
I will take a look at that sensor, thanks for the info. 👍
@@3ATIVE new subs also 😁
great tutorial, have you considered using bme680 instead of the bme280 and ccs-811?
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. I wanted something that was cheap and easy to use... and what I had on hand. I will have a look at that 680 thou.
Great tutorial :) What brand of cables do you use? Mine are really bad, soldering is pain in the…
Thank you, I'm happy to hear you liked it.
As for the wire, with all my tutorials, you'll find it and everything I use linked in the description - Look for the Amazon Link.
Very nice.. no PIR ? Also, can you use the same baseline # if yoy have 2 or more around the house or each require it own baseline? TIA
Thank you. I hope you find it use / help full. 🙏
* Yes, No PIR, I just wanted "Enviro" sensing.
* Indeed, every CO2 sensor will need its own calibration
I had some trouble with the fan on pin D4 due to the fact that it is IO2, used for flashing. I had problems to re-flash the firmware using USB. However, when put together, it worked. I decided to move it to other pin and change the YAML to avoid possible problems in future, worked even better then.
Me too, that's why I show in the video I simple un-soldered the Brown wire, on the first BIN file flash. After that it OTA's fine.
As an EE I absolutely approve of the instructions that is fool-proof (nothing really is but...). Not that I need them but I'm not the target either.
Nice project. I had not even thought about using the IKEA Air Quality for my Home Assistant, but this is fantastic!
Thank you Henrik.
💖Nice to get a fellow EE's compliment - Much appreciated.
If you do get to making this project, please check out Part 2 - There I give an IKEA Air Filter the same treatment.
-- In addition, the next tutorial (Part 3) will be linking the two together, making a fully automatic "Clean Air" setup!!
@@3ATIVE Yeah, I saw that one. But I use an Air Heat Pump that clean my air 24/7 so I'm no need. But I might build it anyway and keep in my work shop (electronics, 3D printing, laser cutter, cnc, paint booth).
Btw, I also do work as a teacher and do lectures so you can take even more from my comment. 😏
@@3ATIVE btw, I love rebuilding stuff for things that it's not intended. You learn more than just building from scratch.
@@henrik.norberg OIC no worries... It was worth a plug! LOL
WOW - You're a Teacher / lecturer as well - NICE! Then your message/compliment is even more valued. 💖
@@henrik.norberg Indeed. Re-purposing, "Hacking" and generally stripping gadgets apart is the most fun hobby. And, as you say, the best way to learn. 👍
nice tutorial thanks! why is it important to read out if fan is running or not? i think i will use the same components which u use but maybe add some own leds to the front. something where i can self decide which color is on...
No need, I had the option so I thought "Why Not !" LOL
Feel free to customise as you see fit. 👍
Rly nice tutorial. Built it a few days ago. I camibrated the tvoc and co2 sensor on the balcony for like 30mins. But i am getting huge jumps in the measurments with ridiculous values sometimes. Any tips?
Give it one more day and calibrate again. Some docs say these sensors need 24-48hrs to 'settle'.
Good video! Looking to try this myself. Anyone have any suggestions as to where to purchase the additional sensor. Thank for your patience for the new to electronics person.
If you want them quick, you can order from Amazon (I have links in the description)
Either that, just Google to find them on your favourite Chinese seller's Website.
Great job with this video, well explained. My concern with temperature sensors and ESPs is that the wifi modules are heating a bit, so the temperature readings are not accurate. How is this installation doing regarding that? I the sensor fan helping?
Thanks.
I thought that too however, I've been running it against another sensor for a few days, that is averaged from many others in the same room. I only see a 1 to 2 degree of difference. Which I don't think any living thing would notice. :)
I wondered this too.. I put mine in the basement where it is definitely cooler, and the temperature readying is 26C. Measuring the area around the monitor is just under 18C.. so its out quite a bit.
@@MicheIIePucca I stoped using temperature sensors DIY. I just purchased a bunch of zigbee temperature and humidity, and they are very reliable and eficient. They cost something like 4-5$ each. The same cost as a DIY one.
@@George-vt5rf Nice. I haven't use zigbee yet.. I assume they need a hub or something as well as having the sensors? Any suggestions? Thankyou!
I placed an ESP8266 in a Vindriktning. It must have been almost two years ago. Your version is a very nice version of mine. Much better. In this case, more is better, right? I think I'll try to make one like yours too. Maybe with an ESP32 so that I can also use the Bluetooth functionality for ESPresence. Thank you for the inspiration.
Thank you, it's nice to hear it was use/help-full for you.😎
Super video - thx
I have done this over 1 year ago and installed an DHT11 Sensor for humidity and temperature- and it works very, very well.
BUT - BUT the f.. cheap fans. After a few month they are getting loud, after a year they are getting much too loud.
I am 3d printing so i have better fans... but i will not put these fans in, because the fans are more expensive then the whole vindriktning - so i unplug them. Its quiet now and they work also.
I can test this every day when i am cooking :-)
Thanks for sharing
Great Project and very inspiring. Do you know if I can combine your code and extend it to also do presence detection? It would save me some ESP32 boards in my house, and with these enhanced ikea sensors in the house, they would cover most rooms anyway. I am currently doing it with espresence but esphome can do this too I read.
I don't use presence detection here but, from what I have seen it runs in it's own "code space" and so you can't add anything else (ESPHome wise) to that board.
Thank you for your response. Appreciated.@@3ATIVE
I absolutely love this video, I will give it a try, do you think I can also add MM presence sensor and a PIR motion sensor? or is it too much for esp32?
Thnx, enjoy you build. 🥳
Adding those other sensors won't be a problem.
Somehow the Ikea sensor is not powering my esp!! I am using wemos_d1_mini32 :(((( any ideas?@@3ATIVE
Any other sensors people have added into this? Looks quite simple to add more if theres anything else handy that could be! Maybe a PIR sensor or something for movement detection?
Can we use the voltage from the light sensor to give an indication of how bright a room is compared to just light or dark aswell?
Can imagine having one of these in the main room facing the front door, went you walk in, detects movement and knows it dark, and with location sensing that you've just gotten home, so turn on the lights
Sure the I2C Bus can read over 100 devices LOL - _Just be careful of drawing too much power_ ⚡
I went with just "Light/Dark" on that tiny sensor as it's not a linear curve so, pretty useless as a "LUX Level".
Is the light sensor working properly to measure the light level in the room like a BH1750? Not sure if I missed the sensor readings at the end where you showed the measurements in Home Assistant.
No it's VERY basic. Please watch my video carefully, all your questions so far have been included. E.G. Light Sensor - 18:50
nice little hack! The only thing I would say is that the temp and humidity reading are going to be inaccurate due to the fan in use inside the IKEA unit, I'd image it will fluctuate quite a bit! A potential solution would be to have the temp/humidity sensor placed outside of the unit or insulated somewhat inside?
Thanks.
I thought that too however, I've been running it against another sensor for a few days, that is averaged from many others in the same room. I only see a 1 to 2 degree of difference. Which I don't think any living thing would notice. :)
@@3ATIVE nice so !!!
Just bumped and subscribed right away! Great job!
Now a challenge :) Can you go for BME680 please and let's try to squeeze all we can from the combo?
Well thank you for the compliment and the support - Both are appreciated 🙏
As for the "challenge" - Not much I can do on this video and not much point in making a new one.
However, ESPHome supports the BME680 ( esphome.io/components/sensor/bme680.html ). So, feel free to upgrade your project. 👍
@@3ATIVE I have and did the same with a BME680. Thank you so much to teach me the calibration needs (was unaware of that) and also the usage of the light sensor. Really amazing stuff as i now have what i consider a great IAQ sensor with many more features using Bosch BSEC library and your great ideas.
Keep the amazing work!
@@fredericoalmeida5473 Thank you (again) for the great feedback. I'm so glad you like my content - It really makes it all worth doing.
One thing I found when using an IR remote in the same room as the IKEA sensor was that the light sensor is specifically an IR one, I wonder if you can use it as a IR repeater to control any automatons by firing into the sensor?
Yeah, I noticed that too. Seems weird they didn't use a sensor with an IR Filter. As for getting that data in to HA.. maybe, I've attached to a GPIO pin so,.... :)
Seems the CCS811 is no longer available and the ENS160 is now the go to for CO2? Do your instructions carry over with the new sensor?
The CCS811 boards are still available and the ENS160 does look to be a similar array of sensors. Both use the i2c bus and the code looks the same too.
- I can't see any issues with using this other board.
@13:56 why not wire the WAK signal to a digital pin as well?
This so you can control the on or off state on the module?
There was no need as the module doesn't require that much power and it would complicate the ESPHome un-necessarily .
Would it be possible to add a LD2410? i think it is added via rx/tx too...
Absolutely and yes those are serial devices too. While we are using the default Tx & Rx on the Di Mini, you can add a second serial port on two other pins.
Can other I2C sensors be added? Don't know what yet but I need to replace the old BRUH ones I built 3 years ago.
Of course, just ensure they all have different addresses, with a load no more than 400 pico farads.
Nice video. I did a similar one but found the heat from the D1 mini affects the temp sensor. How accurate is yours.
Thanks.
I thought that too however, I've been running it against another sensor for a few days, that is averaged from many others in the same room. I only see a 1 to 2 degree of difference. Which I don't think any living thing would notice. :)
@@3ATIVE like the video any way. Ordered some wire from your link aswell.
Thanks Nigel. I appreciate the support. 💖
What is the hookup wire you are using? It looks like you are stripping it without tools at times?
Yes it's my favourite wire ever... and I can indeed strip it with my fingernails. lol
As with all my tutorials, you'll find it and everything I use linked in the description - Look for the Amazon Link.
Thank you for the tutorial. I have a question. It looks like you connected CJMCU-811 to 5V. As far as I know, it should be 3.3V. Am I wrong?
You are welcome.
Ideally yes, it should be 3V3. However, as the Temp/Humi/Pressure sensor was powered by 5V I decided to reduce wiring and run both on 5V. Both have been working AOK.
@@3ATIVE Thank you for your reply! I cannot find CJMCU-811. Amazon in US does not have it. Do you have another device that I can use instead?
@@ericilkwatson5557 Sure they do, I found one straight away:
amzn.to/3OmkUZ5
amzn.to/49ccgV7
amzn.to/4bi2eUu
😊
@@3ATIVE Thank you!!!
so if you live in downtown New Dehli your baseline is from the air outside and concidered as good ;-)
LOL
would it be possible to drive the fan from the ESP32? An output pin. To change the 20sec/8sec interval.
Sure, you can isolate the MOSFET from the original MCU and drive it with the D1 Mini.
I didn't see the point myself, as the IKEA MCU was already doing it.
Thanks for the answer! Indoor air does not change that fast, a measurement every 5 minutes would be sufficient for me. Love your work and channel, especially the unpacking of delivery video, now my wife saw: I am not the only nuts @@3ATIVE
Great tutorial thanks for sharing. That bme280 sensor, isn't it a 5V one? Asking since it gets connected to 3.3V pin on the D1 mini if my eyes are not deceiving me 😅
Thanks, I hope you found it useful.
You are correct. Both the I2C boards are powered off the 3v3 Pin. The BME280 sensor itself is a 3v3 device but the board it's mounted on incorporates a 3v3 regulator. So it can be powered by 5v if needed
Ah that makes sense should have read the specs. Thanks for the super fast reply, cheers from Oz.
@@igorcicimov6234 No worries, happy to help.
@@3ATIVE Hmm I stuffed up and ordered the BMP280 3.3V High Precision one. Seems it has two more CSB and SDO. Am I ok to wire it up the same ignoring these two? Also I assume from your response the change to 3.3v one is not going to be an issue?
@@sashb9331Oh dear... any chance you can return it and get a another?
I can't help you with the extra pins, I'd have to test it to advise connections
I don,t understand about wifi and pass, do i need to put it while edit a firmware or i can put it on gui application on pc or phone?
In all my ESPHome code examples, I use "Secrets" - If you don't then you WILL have to replace the "!secret..." lines with your WiFi SSID and Password.
However, I recommend you check out my other tutorial on how to use Secrets: th-cam.com/video/eW4vKDeHh7Y/w-d-xo.html
Another question concerning calibration. No matter the different Co2 value the baseline address/hex value seems to stay the same.
[10:47:42][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1080 ppm, tvoc=103 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA
[10:47:52][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1043 ppm, tvoc=97 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA
[10:48:02][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1017 ppm, tvoc=93 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA
[10:48:12][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=1014 ppm, tvoc=93 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA
[10:48:22][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=982 ppm, tvoc=88 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA
[10:48:32][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=971 ppm, tvoc=86 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA
[10:48:42][D][ccs811:114]: Got co2=970 ppm, tvoc=86 ppb, baseline=0xD1BA
Is this normal ? (value in the .yaml file is still "commented" for now
I guess the "resolution" is not high enough to detect these small changes?
That's correct. The "Baseline" is the base from which the value is calculated from... I.E. "400 ppm".
So once you tell it what "400 ppm" looks like (Hanging out the window for 30mins) the sensor knows what to work from.
FYI you need to add this HEX number to the YAML. It's used as a reference next time the sensor is started... I.E. Power Off & On.
Possible to get a url for the additional sensors ?
Check the description for Amazon link, everything is there.
Instead of soldering directly to light sensor, you can solider to pin 7 (right side, second from top pin) of U1 chip
I did look at that location and TBH it was a little too cramped the solder to.
Hello, thanks a lot.
Could you provide a picture of the pinout ?
👍
All the pins, on all the boards, are labelled... on the boards.
@@3ATIVE yes but it'll be good to have a schematic
Is it the Ikea UPPÅTVIND air purifier, you're gonna show next?
Kinda... I got the FÖRNUFTIG Air purifier
Great project, thank you. I’ve got everything working except the blue light doesn’t come on. The fan status is changing from on to off in esphome but no blue light on the D1 Mini. Help!!
Thank you, I'm glad you have everything working - Except the D1 Mini's Blue LED.
Which is strange, as that is on D4 the same pin the Fan sense is using. If the fan status is showing in HA and you're getting PMS readings... The only thing I can think of is the LED is faulty?
@@3ATIVEthank you for your reply. It’s a D1 Mini ESP32 from WROOM 32. I wonder if that blue led is on a different pin? The documentation I can find doesn’t mention it at all
@@RohanTheBT Ah... that's a different animal altogether. I haven't had chance to play with those yet - I have some on order from China.
In the meantime, I only really used the D4 LED as a gimmick. I mean it's not like you can see it most of the time anyway LOL
- At least you know everything's working and HA is still getting the fan status. 🙏
@@3ATIVEok, thank you. I was quite keen to see a blue light every so often. Could I hook a standard blue led, with suitable dropping resistor across the two pads marked fan + and - that are in the middle of the IKEA board? I’ve checked there is 5v there when the fan is on
@@RohanTheBT Indeed, you can never have enough Blue LEDs ! LOL
Yes, the wire connected to the "D4" is active Low when the fan is running (It's the output from the IKEA's on-board MOSFET) - Adding your own shouldn't be an issue.
- Lemme know how you get on. 👍
I may have missed it, but the fan sensor input, would a pull-up resistor be a good idea?
For what purpose?
@@3ATIVE I'm not as familiar with either the IKEA sensor or the D1, but in my experience, if that's an NPN transistor output to the fan, nothing will pull the voltage up decisively so you may not get a clear ON state on the microcontroller pin when the fan is off.
@@jakegardner8667 OIC... I think this is good as it's a N-Channel MOSFET switching 0volts to the fan.
My D1 mini works great powered by USB but when powered by the 5V from the Ikea sensor it does not connect to wifi.
Sorry to hear that. Check your wiring and maybe change the D1 Mini?
Instead of stacking the sensors, why not go for a BME680 which has the VOC sensor built in?
Have a look at the datasheet for that and tell me what it's missing
Hi, I have a question and I need your help. I would like to add another condition to fan control. I would like to add a Switch Helper in Home Assistant that permit me to Enable or Disable the automation, and mantain the Windows detection that is just in place. I created a Helper on HA and imported ad Binary Sensor template in code, but after lot of try I cannot use this second variable in order to enable or disable the automation. My need is: Helper Switch ON, sensor control air purifier and all work as your code as is. Helper Switch is OFF, automation never fired, and I have to turn on air purifier manually. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Marco
Not a problem...
I've added a new YAML to the GitHub page. Include this in your IKEA Air Quality Sensor code and will add another "Switch" for you. Use this to Enable/Disable sending speed control to the IKEA Air Filter.
@@3ATIVE ok great thanks I will give you a try today
@@MarcoPozzuolo I've also added a quick tutorial on how to add and use it...
th-cam.com/video/XsoJnQFytAw/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I have an issue. ccs811is not seen on I2C bus, bme280 yes. I connected WAK pin to GND. I cannot understand what is missing. Any help would be appreciated
Check your wiring again. If aok, put the sensor on another D1 mini to check it's actually working - you may have a faulty one.
@@3ATIVE sensor was broken. Got another one, tomorrow I will do calibration and testing. Thanks
@@MarcoPozzuolo Sorry to hear that but, glad you found the issue. Have fun.
Hi, got new sensor and now I got values. I put sensor on balcony leave for 30 minutes, but i get very stange values. After 30 minutes I got pretty same values around 400 and 430, that is reliable with outside Co2 values in my zone, but after hours I got values around 930-960 ans always differnt baseline. Any suggestion ? Marco
After 30 mins outside the baseline should have settled and become consistent. Any chance there was smoke or other pollutants happening?
Maybe try again when there are less people about, I do mine late at night.
@@3ATIVE I leaved sensor on for 48+ hours as suggested in many forum. Today I put sensor outside for 30 minutes and set baseline. Today outside is rainy and very clean air. After setting baseline, i Take sensor indoor amd I got co2=1911 ppm, tvoc=415 ppb. I have other CO2 sensor and value is not real
Any suggestion? Thanks
@@MarcoPozzuolo Sorry for the delay.... For some reason your last comment was "Held for Review" !!! 🤪
If I'm correct, the procedure is calibrate (outside) to get apply the "baseline", then wait 12-48hrs with it inside for it to settle and start getting a "correct" reading(s).
One thing I do say about this project: It's not meant to be a "Scientific" sensor. It's only meant to be an indicator of VOC/CO² and enough to know or get notified if to open a window or not.
Hey. Im using a different D1 mini (WEMOS) im seeing this error after flashing.... SPI_FAST_FLASH_BOOT happen to know what its related to?
All "D1 Minis" [should] be the same 'thing' - an ESP8266.
I Googled that error and the only thing I could find was corrupted Flash memory. Some people found re-flashing it worked. However, most say the board is bad and needs replacing.
@@3ATIVE The one here plugged in - images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5019271be4b0807297e8f404/1610124445529-IJ48PB7QEXTXGO58DIWG/Wemos+D32.png?format=2500w
Ah, that's an ESP32 D1 Mini - My code won't work for that as it was written for the ESP8266.
2:40 can you explain why you go to FAN- instead of FAN+?
Yeah sure 2:01
@@3ATIVE ok got it thank you 🙏
Would anybody know if I can use an S2 mini for this project, instead of the D1 mini? I have several S2 laying around... but the Pin names are different from the D1 mini, so I don't know how to map them...
The code will be pretty much the same, apart from the setup and board type.
So, if you search for the layout of a D1 Mini that'll also list the GPIO numbers. Then search for the same for your S2 Mini. Using both lists you'll be able to transpose.
@@3ATIVE Thanks for the fast reply. I think I found some PIN mappings which should get me started to try it out. I'll post here later how successful I'm with this...
@@HermannThoene Cool, good luck and have fun. Also, check out my "About" links for the DISCORD server invite for better support and tips.
Hello, I have another question. I have set up two devices successfully, but I have noticed that they are displaying a higher temperature than the actual temperature. One of them is approximately 11(F) higher, and the other one is about 15(F) higher than the actual temperature. Is there anything that I can do to fix this issue?
Hi there,
Yes... the best thing to do is add a "Filter" to the sensor(s). See here:
esphome.io/components/sensor/index.html#sensor-filters
@@3ATIVE Thank you. I am new to ESPHome. This is my first project, but I will try to figure it out.
@@3ATIVE I'm also having this problem now. Temp inside box about 5°C too high compared to room. But I measured with this temp gun thingy and it's really higher. So something of the D1mini or other does dissipate and creates some heat. Is that normal, is it not using very low current/power?
@@PeterVdS76 Yes there is some heat coming off the D1 mini - That's why I put it at the top.
If you find your sensor is reading temps way too high, you can compensate by adding a "Filter" in the YAML code:
See here:
esphome.io/components/sensor/index.html#sensor-filters
I'm just starting to get my feet wet with home automation. I see you bypassed the screen saying you need to connect the device to the computer first in order use it with ESPHome. I haven't used ESPHome just because of this. The site itself says you have to do this once per device. How do you avoid it here?
_Welcome to the club. 👋_
I flash my devices the first time, via USB, using *ESPHome Flasher* - A Stand-alone Windows Program.
All updates after that are OTA (Over the Air) via Wi-Fi.
Watch again from 20:12
Have you considered some small lcd?
Considered??
@@3ATIVE i thought it might be nice to have some small lcd to show live data beside sending it to HA.
@ OIC. Well the whole point of doing this (connecting it to Home Assistatn) was so you don't have to look at it. :)
@@3ATIVE of course, but i'm looking into some visual stuff to show extreme values. Maybe hide front leds and show rgb leds instead. Drived by esp directly, and showing state of every sensor.
@ I hear ya. Sure, that should be easy. Have fun. 👍
What kind of wire do you use for soldering?
I just use a generic 60/40 Leaded Solder - Nothing special.
Sorry I meant the red, green and blue wires.
@@kevinhertwig6104 OIC LOL
I do mention it here: 08:59
mate is there any chance I can just pay you for one assembled
I mean that could be possible... but, the postage to Oz would be SOOO MUCH! I really couldn't subject you to it. Isn't there anyone local that could do it for you?
What about the calibration of the bme280? Mine is always reading 6 to 9 degrees higher than the real temperature...
I haven't seen that myself... However, you can always add a "Filter" for the offset you are seeing. Take a look at this:
esphome.io/components/sensor/index.html#offset
Hi, Tks for reply.
I did calibrate_linear but that didn't worked to calculate de humidity... As in fact the temperature remains higher that we see in the filtered value, then the value of the humidity is wrong... There must be a correct way to install a bme280 on a esp32/8266 and get correct values. Probably is because I'm asking for to much refresh intervals, or the clock is to fast and it gets warm, I don't know...
But I think I'm not asking to much to have a correct value for temperature, humidity and pressure every 5 min.
Yeah, same problem here. Temperature is +7*, humidity is ~23% against 42% measured by other sensors.
@@DarthStasheck I gave up on humidity 😢
My concern is whether the air quality sensor is well calibrated and reliable. I find most air quality sensors are far from reliable. You need expensive sensors well calibrated for that
Well of course however, It's better to have some indication of "Bad Air" rather than none. I'd rather have "some" thing than "no" thing. :)
No one is pretending these are calibrated or their output is in any way "scientific grade".
Non smart hack: is it possible to mod the IKEA sensor as a switch? Just to power on an separate fan if air quality is bad?
Many thanks
#StayTuned - That will be the subject of my next tutorial, Controlling the IKEA Air Filter
Tx connection should have a 5k/10k voltage divider as the signal is at 5V
ESP8266 GPIO pins are 5v tolerant, if the current is low
@@3ATIVE learned something new!
@@Meerhoning Excellent. I'm glad I was able to help, it's the main reason I make these videos/tutorials. 💖
@@3ATIVE and it's much appreciated!
@@Meerhoning and comments like that make it all worth-while. Thank you. 🙏
Yeah first like 😂
AND, it looks like, first view too. Nice. 🥳
Is it a CO₂ (carbon dioxide) sensor or a CO (carbon monoxide) sensor? The latter one would be more helpful, I don't see how an excess of CO₂ would make it uncomfortable or dangerous.
It's a CO₂, as mentioned... I.E. what we breathe out.
Carbon Monoxide, that from combustion, is a whole other (more expensive) sensor.
Hi,
tho more expensive it would be helpful! As for example a radone-sensor (Rn) would be.
Do you know if that modification could work to?
New subscriber!
@@perberg107 Well, there is that. 👍
However, this little project is a "better that nothing" addition to a home automation setup.
- I've been using mine for a few weeks and it's been extremely helpful to get "call to action" notifications before I notice a drop in air quality.
Well it's altogether and the code uploads but refuses to connect to my network..... not sure why but it's an interesting problem I hope to solve LOL Thank you for posting this!!
That's a weird one. Not sure why.
Things I'd check:
* Unless you're using !secrets - Check Network SSID & Password
* Make sure your router has enough capacity for the number of connected devices you have
* Disconnect the D1 Mini and see it connects on its own
@@3ATIVE uhmmmmm me either. I left it alone all this time, plugged it in and it's working HAHAHHAHHA I think I have a faulty Ikea sensor as the 2.5µg shows as unknown on 1 but the other one I built it's working fine...... NOT a deal breaker!! Thank you for all your work this is exactly what I've been looking for.... You just keeping making these excellent videos please!
@@TheCowboysdude That's great to hear.. Kind-of. Sorry to hear the other one is faulty. Have you tried contacting IKEA for a replacement? Obviously try and put it back to "normal" LOL
Thank you for the kind words of encouragement - It really nice read and know that people appreciate my efforts. 🙏
@@3ATIVE I will try to put it back to normal. It's not reading correctly at all. LOL I did order 3 more because I wanted to put them in each bedroom. Excellent project and exactly what I wanted!!! Thank you!
@@TheCowboysdude It's certainly a pain to get a faulty item and annoying with all the wasted time returning etc.
Yes, monitoring many rooms. As part of my process, I order many units:
1 to Test and R&D with
1 to practise on
1 to film with
So there's 2 running atm, with the first one still in "R&D Land" LOL
i liked it for the banana to scale
😊Thanks, it's my fav meme. I 3D printed ages ago but I keep forgetting to place it in shots.
Is It a real CO2 sensor or a eCO2 sensor ?
All the info is here: amzn.to/47loXeO
Might have missed something but i thought light and dark was also meant to be showing in HA for light based automations? Sorry got this from your talk just before second flash i think.
Indeed, I set the "Light / Dark" to come in to HA as a Binary Sensor. It'll be called:
binary_sensor.[YOUR SUBSTITUTION NAME] _aq_bright
@@3ATIVEAwesome will check it out after the build is done. I just finished building 5 of them and am facing a bit of an issue. On all of them the temp/hum/temp sensors are unknown. How quickly are they meant to post? Think I might have missed something 😮
@@guylast9516 Cool, wow... Loads of them lol
The data should arrive within 10/20 seconds of power-up.
Check the ESPHome log and see if they report something like "Found xxx I2C device...".
@@3ATIVE Lol yeah. Was in the market for something good but within reasonable price and then saw your video. It was also Black Friday on Ali express so cheaper.
[18:15:55][I][i2c.arduino:069]: Results from i2c bus scan:
[18:15:55][I][i2c.arduino:075]: Found i2c device at address 0x5A
[18:15:55][I][i2c.arduino:075]: Found i2c device at address 0x76
also another line which concerns me
[E][bme280.sensor:184]: BME280 has wrong chip ID! Is it a BME280?
Quick question about calibration. Can I hang one of these out the window, lol and use the value from it for all of them?
Ok so I changed the code to only show temp and pressure and it worked. This means I got the BMP280 sent to me instead of BME280. The chip says BME/BMP280 on the sensor. Arrgh
Where do I learn to solder like you :O ace
Watching all my tutorials LOL
Seriously, just keep soldering, practice is key.
Random comment, but please enable subtitles (at least auto-generated). While I don't have issues understanding, it's nice to have the subtitles as reference (again, even auto-generated).
Hmm... that's weird. I thought all my videos had (at least auto-generated) subtitles on. I've even taken the time edit some
and get them translated too. Now all of of my videos have the subtitle button grey-ed out.
I'll contact TH-cam asap and find out what's happened. - Thanks for letting me know. 👋
GOOD NEWS!
The Auto-Generated Subtitles are, once again, available. When I get a chance I'll go through them and make corrections as needed.