Thank you! The soft shutter release is one I took from a 35mm camera. It's about the size of a dime on top. I admit SSRs aren't something I know much about and the ones I have all came with cameras. I only use them on a few cameras for which reducing shutter shake is important.
@@DavidHancock just to confirm... the second generation 6x7 MLU does not have aperture priority? You set the ISO, choose your aperture in stopped down (manual mode on lense), look through the viewfinder/ prism (obviously with metered prism), and then select your shutter speed to get the needle in the prism to be in the "good exposure" zone? I'm just coming to the realization that the Pentax 67ii is the only version with "aperture priority". Can you confirm that my presumption is correct? And if not, could you clarify?
I don't have that copy (I have the 3.5), but people I know who ave used both prefer the f4, typically. Two versions of the f4 exist, 79-86 and 86-01. The latter has fewer lens elements but weights 110 grams more (725 v. 615). Both are rated sharper than the 3.5 which I use. If so, then dang. The 3.5 is super-sharp to my eye and renders light very well. That's a good suite you have. My next 6X7 lenses will be the 135mm macro and fisheye.
Thanks for making this and the last video. I purchased a 67 this week and it's on it's way from Japan. I'm excited to finally this camera. I enjoyed your sample pics at the end of your video. I wish you would have posted more.
+Drew James Thank you! You'll love the 67. It's a simply amazing camera with a magnificent support system. If you'd like to see some more of my photos with my 6X7, here you go: picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/11115Pentax6X7 picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/1027156X7 picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/1022156X7 picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/614146X7 picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/1010136X7 picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/84136X7 picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/921136X7 I love my 6X7 and wish I had more reasons, or maybe excuses, to use it.
Being a loing-time 67 syt4m user, I appreciate David's presentation of the system to new users. I would offer a few clarifications. On film loading, you should use your thumb to put drag on the film roll to tension the initial wind-on of the film leader. It needs a tight "wrap" to avoid the takeup going loose and sometimes jamming part way thourgh the roll. Good practice for all 120 loaders. Also, the 6x7 [ David's] and 67 bodies do not have user changeable focus screens. Those screens fit only the last body, the 67, Series 2. .Finally, David's right - you cannot find filters for the 55mm 3.5; all three of the later versions of 55mm 4.0 are sharper lenses with normal filter sizes.
Excellent point all around. I'd disagree on one which is the focusing screen. I did swap mine out for a grid (after making this video.) It wasn't hard but did require undoing six screws and ensuring the whole assembly didn't fly apart (I think there's a there's a leaf-type spring under the glass stack) and I had to keep track of all the focusing stack shims to make sure they weren't lost or damaged and had to verify infinity calibration afterward. So, not easy, but doable.
The screens for the 67 and 6x7 were considered factory replacements, and those screens have been gone for decades. The 67II has user "drop-in" replacement screens. More as an urban legend, I've heard that the 67II screen units can be disassembled and the bare screen installed (carefully) in the earlier 67 or 6x7. Interesting that you have actually done this.
You mentioned that you use a soft shutter release button. What size is it? There are several sizes for these. Thanks. I enjoyed the video. Very helpful!
There's an ASA/ISO dial, just lift the ring and adjust. I forget exactly where it is, but I think it's only on the metered prisms (and I don't have one of those.)
Christian Nawrath Smith Thank you. The battery for the old 6X7 bodies is a PX28 (also called a 4LR44.) The CR2 is the wrong shape and half the voltage of the PX28.
Thanks for your great video. I need to do a big outdoor photo shoot and from your experience which is the sharper lens, the 105mm or the 90mm??? I also like this camera because it can do multiple exposures, and with such a large negative, can get really creative. Aloha!!!
Thank you! The 105 is sharper than the 90mm leaf shutter, about equal to the other 90mm. This camera cannot do double exposures without a leaf shutter lens, however.
Thank you for your help. I have the 90mm LS lens, so I'll use the 105mm upon your suggestion. Also, I have two Pentax 67"s and I bought them new in Japan several years ago and they both do multiple exposures. If they didn't have that option, I wouldn't have bought them. I would have bought the Mamiya RB67 instead but the Pentax is a better field camera. I just find the Mamiya 67 to be awkward in the field, but it's a great studio camera.
Oh, got it. Yes, the 67 can do multiple exposures where the 6X7 cannot. The 67 and 67II are nice cameras for sure. I kind of agree about the RB67. It is amazing for studio work. It's awkward to use -- like a huge Hassy, and heavy, but I do like it outside. My back ad shoulders, however, do not like taking the RB67 outside. :D
Spot metering for most any photography is a great tool. Spot metering is absolutely the most powerful metering tool for working with manual cameras like this. So, if you can meter with a spot meter well, then yes, it's a fantastic tool for landscape work.
Could you give me suggestions on the studio light usage with wireless transmitters and a studio shoot? I'll be using a Pentax67 with MLU, 90mm 2.8 LS lens, Pocket Wizard IIs, Studio lights, and a model staying relatively still. I'm not quite sure what chord to get and the shutter speed I should use.
In all honesty, that's beyond my depth. I have the 90mm LS and am still trying to figure out what cord it needs to connect to a flash myself. I'll try a few experiments tonight and see if I can come up with any ideas.
Yes with some asterisks that you need to wind the film into an empty cassette if you want to be able to unload it in daylight and there is a lot of waste with that approach because the shutter won't fire until it thinks the film is advanced past the black paper. You'll lose around a half-roll of 36-frame film (give or take) and only get about ten pano shots. There's also a downside with alignment as if the film is not perfectly aligned it can advance at an angle, which is a bit weird. But yes, it is a fun thing to give a go for sprocket hole panos.
Has anyone tried shooting this at 1/30s handheld? I read somewhere that the weight of the camera helps you stabilize. Kinda want to pair it with metz cl
I have. I've shot to 1/8th freestanding handheld with some shots having motion blur, others not. I've shot to 1/4 braced against a wall reliably without motion blur. The largest factor in how long you can hand-hold will be your arm and chest strength and how solid your stance is.
Hi David. Finally got my first roll shot on my 6x7 back from the lab. I can't say I'm totally thrilled with the results BUT it is totally my mediocre photography skills and not the camera's fault. I have only been photographing seriously for about two months after all. If you'd like to see them here is a Flickr gallery of the best shots: www.flickr.com/photos/156018067@N06/albums/72157684260010743 Not sure what caused the odd colours in the portrait of my friend Lindsay...probably just how the light was that evening. The lab also ran the roll of Tri-X I shot through colour chemistry, so I think it's more imperative than ever that I start developing myself. Thanks for all your help
Thank you! I used Portra 400. I've noticed little imperfections (and some big hairs) on some of the scans. I have a feeling the lab might not be that diligent. Just one more reason to do it myself!
I certainly will be trying a different lab. The lab (here in town) that does my colour 35mm never messes it up but they can't do 120. Guess I'll just do it myself! Unless maybe it's the lens? It's a bit yellow. But not all the shots have that cast.
Thank you! The soft shutter release is one I took from a 35mm camera. It's about the size of a dime on top. I admit SSRs aren't something I know much about and the ones I have all came with cameras. I only use them on a few cameras for which reducing shutter shake is important.
Thank you for taking the time to put all this together. ❤️
Thank you!
@@DavidHancock just to confirm... the second generation 6x7 MLU does not have aperture priority? You set the ISO, choose your aperture in stopped down (manual mode on lense), look through the viewfinder/ prism (obviously with metered prism), and then select your shutter speed to get the needle in the prism to be in the "good exposure" zone?
I'm just coming to the realization that the Pentax 67ii is the only version with "aperture priority". Can you confirm that my presumption is correct? And if not, could you clarify?
@@jasonzayas5487 I've not used the 67, only the 6x7 and 67II, so I'm not entirely sure what capabilities the 67 had.
@@DavidHancock how about the 6x7 with MLU?
@@jasonzayas5487 Full manual only
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I just got my 67ii with the 105 and 55mm lenses.
I don't have that copy (I have the 3.5), but people I know who ave used both prefer the f4, typically. Two versions of the f4 exist, 79-86 and 86-01. The latter has fewer lens elements but weights 110 grams more (725 v. 615). Both are rated sharper than the 3.5 which I use. If so, then dang. The 3.5 is super-sharp to my eye and renders light very well. That's a good suite you have. My next 6X7 lenses will be the 135mm macro and fisheye.
Thanks for the info David. I'll shoot with these two lens and see what's next. Love how the camera handles.
You'll love your 6X7. It's a great camera.
Thanks for making this and the last video. I purchased a 67 this week and it's on it's way from Japan. I'm excited to finally this camera. I enjoyed your sample pics at the end of your video. I wish you would have posted more.
+Drew James Thank you! You'll love the 67. It's a simply amazing camera with a magnificent support system.
If you'd like to see some more of my photos with my 6X7, here you go:
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/11115Pentax6X7
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/1027156X7
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/1022156X7
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/614146X7
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/1010136X7
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/84136X7
picasaweb.google.com/102333270936007447976/921136X7
I love my 6X7 and wish I had more reasons, or maybe excuses, to use it.
Being a loing-time 67 syt4m user, I appreciate David's presentation of the system to new users. I would offer a few clarifications. On film loading, you should use your thumb to put drag on the film roll to tension the initial wind-on of the film leader. It needs a tight "wrap" to avoid the takeup going loose and sometimes jamming part way thourgh the roll. Good practice for all 120 loaders. Also, the 6x7 [ David's] and 67 bodies do not have user changeable focus screens. Those screens fit only the last body, the 67, Series 2. .Finally, David's right - you cannot find filters for the 55mm 3.5; all three of the later versions of 55mm 4.0 are sharper lenses with normal filter sizes.
Excellent point all around. I'd disagree on one which is the focusing screen. I did swap mine out for a grid (after making this video.) It wasn't hard but did require undoing six screws and ensuring the whole assembly didn't fly apart (I think there's a there's a leaf-type spring under the glass stack) and I had to keep track of all the focusing stack shims to make sure they weren't lost or damaged and had to verify infinity calibration afterward. So, not easy, but doable.
The screens for the 67 and 6x7 were considered factory replacements, and those screens have been gone for decades. The 67II has user "drop-in" replacement screens. More as an urban legend, I've heard that the 67II screen units can be disassembled and the bare screen installed (carefully) in the earlier 67 or 6x7. Interesting that you have actually done this.
❤️❤️
You mentioned that you use a soft shutter release button. What size is it? There are several sizes for these. Thanks. I enjoyed the video. Very helpful!
You're welcome! The 105mm is amazing. I think it's the best standard lens I've ever used. Do you have the f3.5 of the f4 55mm?
Thank you.
Hi David, how do you change the film’s ASA or ISO on the settings where the shutter speed selector dial is? Thanks
There's an ASA/ISO dial, just lift the ring and adjust. I forget exactly where it is, but I think it's only on the metered prisms (and I don't have one of those.)
Hi! great video!! congrats. The battery is CR2??
Regards!
Christian Nawrath Smith Thank you. The battery for the old 6X7 bodies is a PX28 (also called a 4LR44.) The CR2 is the wrong shape and half the voltage of the PX28.
it is the F4 55mm. I read it is superb. What is your opinion?
Thank you!. I try to make them in formative, but sometimes luck out and they're accidentally funny, too.
Thanks. very helpful.
+Connie Jacks Thank you!
great video.
FYI: The Miranda Sensorex cameras had a thread-mount inside, and a bayonet mount outside, so they are dual-mount as well.
You're right. When I recorded the video I had never heard of the Miranda Sensorex mount.
Thanks for your great video. I need to do a big outdoor photo shoot and from your experience which is the sharper lens, the 105mm or the 90mm??? I also like this camera because it can do multiple exposures, and with such a large negative, can get really creative. Aloha!!!
Thank you!
The 105 is sharper than the 90mm leaf shutter, about equal to the other 90mm. This camera cannot do double exposures without a leaf shutter lens, however.
Many thanks David ^_^
Thank you!
Thank you for your help. I have the 90mm LS lens, so I'll use the 105mm upon your suggestion. Also, I have two Pentax 67"s and I bought them new in Japan several years ago and they both do multiple exposures. If they didn't have that option, I wouldn't have bought them. I would have bought the Mamiya RB67 instead but the Pentax is a better field camera. I just find the Mamiya 67 to be awkward in the field, but it's a great studio camera.
Oh, got it. Yes, the 67 can do multiple exposures where the 6X7 cannot. The 67 and 67II are nice cameras for sure.
I kind of agree about the RB67. It is amazing for studio work. It's awkward to use -- like a huge Hassy, and heavy, but I do like it outside. My back ad shoulders, however, do not like taking the RB67 outside. :D
Hi. Where is the slot for the cable release for night photography?
I believe it's on the shutter button.
"Mosquito! Mosquito! MOSQUITO!!!" Haha. Great videos!
isn't the flash sync at 1/60th?
Do you suggest any type of handheld spot metering for landscape photos? thx
Spot metering for most any photography is a great tool. Spot metering is absolutely the most powerful metering tool for working with manual cameras like this. So, if you can meter with a spot meter well, then yes, it's a fantastic tool for landscape work.
how do you take off the strap lugs? mine seems to be stuck.
You have to push on the middle bit in the main part of the lug body. It's distinctly possible that it's really stuck on there as that can happen.
Could you give me suggestions on the studio light usage with wireless transmitters and a studio shoot? I'll be using a Pentax67 with MLU, 90mm 2.8 LS lens, Pocket Wizard IIs, Studio lights, and a model staying relatively still. I'm not quite sure what chord to get and the shutter speed I should use.
In all honesty, that's beyond my depth. I have the 90mm LS and am still trying to figure out what cord it needs to connect to a flash myself. I'll try a few experiments tonight and see if I can come up with any ideas.
The 6x7 can double as a 35mm Panoramic camera with the use of a 35mm adapter kit.
Yes with some asterisks that you need to wind the film into an empty cassette if you want to be able to unload it in daylight and there is a lot of waste with that approach because the shutter won't fire until it thinks the film is advanced past the black paper. You'll lose around a half-roll of 36-frame film (give or take) and only get about ten pano shots. There's also a downside with alignment as if the film is not perfectly aligned it can advance at an angle, which is a bit weird. But yes, it is a fun thing to give a go for sprocket hole panos.
the 55 to 100 has a big filter.
The 55mm F4 has a 75mm filter.
Standard professional size.
When they went to the f/4, they dropped the filter size a lot.
Has anyone tried shooting this at 1/30s handheld? I read somewhere that the weight of the camera helps you stabilize. Kinda want to pair it with metz cl
I have. I've shot to 1/8th freestanding handheld with some shots having motion blur, others not. I've shot to 1/4 braced against a wall reliably without motion blur. The largest factor in how long you can hand-hold will be your arm and chest strength and how solid your stance is.
Not in the 6X7, no. For this camera, it's 1/30th unless you use the 90mm or 165mm leaf shutter lenses.
Oh yeah, you're right! My bad!
Hi David. Finally got my first roll shot on my 6x7 back from the lab. I can't say I'm totally thrilled with the results BUT it is totally my mediocre photography skills and not the camera's fault. I have only been photographing seriously for about two months after all. If you'd like to see them here is a Flickr gallery of the best shots:
www.flickr.com/photos/156018067@N06/albums/72157684260010743
Not sure what caused the odd colours in the portrait of my friend Lindsay...probably just how the light was that evening.
The lab also ran the roll of Tri-X I shot through colour chemistry, so I think it's more imperative than ever that I start developing myself.
Thanks for all your help
Shots look good! What film did you use? I like the sign photo and the portrait of the guy the best. They turned out well.
Thank you! I used Portra 400. I've noticed little imperfections (and some big hairs) on some of the scans. I have a feeling the lab might not be that diligent. Just one more reason to do it myself!
Hmm. Portra should not have that color cast. I would definitely try a different lab next time.
I certainly will be trying a different lab. The lab (here in town) that does my colour 35mm never messes it up but they can't do 120. Guess I'll just do it myself!
Unless maybe it's the lens? It's a bit yellow. But not all the shots have that cast.
I wouldn't think that's a lens issue.