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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- I finally bought the camera that I have been interested in for a long time. The Pentax 6x7 is a massive medium format camera that produces 6x7 negatives. It is big, heavy, and imposing. I thought I could just pick this camera up and start shooting asap, but it in fact requires you to know a couple of things. Here is my first experience!
0:00 Intro
1:10 First Impressions
3:08 My BAD experience
5:35 Take out the Battery
6:26 HELP ME!
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#1 thing with the Pentax 6x7 is film tension. When you load the film, keep your thumb against the film roll as you pull the leader out. Thread the leader into the take up reel and then advance the film to the arrow all while dragging your thumb against the film roll. Keeping your thumb on the film ensures there is enough tension on the film and will eliminate film winding issues.
good call! i didn't do this the first time either. this camera is challenging my patience haha
I've owned mine now for about three years and have shot many rolls through it and here's what I can tell you based on my experiences. First off, I love this camera, LOVE it. That being said it is finicky to load and you just need to be patient. Sometimes I find it hard to get the roll into the camera properly to load it (you need to get the top of the film to slot in with the male receiver and sometimes this can be hard to do). However with practice you'll get the hang of it, but it can be really frustrating at times. Best thing to do is just take a breath, slow down and take your time. Eventually it won't be an issue. Also, as you found out, make sure you line the arrow on the film to the correct spot inside the camera. Remember, this camera is designed to take both 120 and 220 and there are different alignment dots for both, as well as a setting switch on the right side of the camera near the top. Be sure that that is set to 120 (220 is nearly impossible to find these days, unless its old stock). Same for the pressure plate in the back of the camera. What the battery really does is just power the shutter and if you have a metered finder, provide power to that as well. Batteries for it are easy enough to come by and your can order them from places like B&H, Adorama, Amazon etc. Buy three or four and just keep them with you. I'm still on my first battery and I picked my camera at the end of 2017. As for not having the mirror lock up feature, its not the end of the world but what I'd recommend is to test it on a tripod and shoot a roll or two at slow speeds (using a cable release might also be helpful) and see just how bad the mirror slap effect is and at what speeds you notice any camera shake. Then you'll have your parameter. Also check your camera seals, particularly rear film compartment door, make sure they are in good shape. If need be you can run some tape across the top and bottom door seams (going across the back of the camera) and that would help with any light leaks if you have them till you can replace the seals. Otherwise it's a very straight forward camera to use, just like a giant SLR. This camera is amazing and was a mainstay with many fashion photographers for years who shot a lot iconic images with it, I know you'll get great results out of this amazing camera.
yea def! patience is key haha. will try next time
I'm glad I saw this. It'll prepare me for when I load mine up. I'm looking forward to future videos on this camera.
yea! def take your time - i didn't haha
Dope pick up. Love portraits on a medium format film camera, so I can't wait to see the photos.
yea! i excited to get to work with this one
I'm just about to take my Pentax out for a spin later this week, and I'm glad (I think?) to hear that I wasn't the only one having some initial troubles with it!
haha yea! its all good in the end, i think
Welcome to 67s. They can be frustrating at the start as you don't know if you've got a fully working version. Some hints, dos don'ts. Do not take off the prism without taking off the lens first. There is a small chain that can snap if you get the order wrong. Lens first then prism. Film loading can be a pain; I try to get the receiving spool lined so the slot is pointing straight up and not to the right-hand side as it were. Can mean moving the winder on a few times to get the spool in the right position. Take your time with the loading as well. You can get the shutter to fire without film, it can be fiddly. Open the door, place the body on a firm surface, where the film counter is you will see a small circle with serrated edges. Pressing just this small circle and turning it so that the film counter moves from 0 to say 5 and then keep your finger pressed on the small circle close the rear door. You should be able to dry fire the shutter now and you will get resistance on the film winder. To reset, open the rear door and the film counter should flip back to 0. Sometimes you need to help it with the small circle press again. Hope this helps and I may do a video or similar on 67s sometime soon. Ohh the right-hand grip or lack thereof. If you order a 3d printed item that provides this grip from ebay for £20 or similar. (I have a 67ii and 2x67s atm). The wooden handle you can get some folks like it for stability when taking portraits in portrait orientation. The 1/60th second and hand-holding, more the mirror slap in the body than you and stability. Interested in your findings.
@John ok I'll do a video on what I've found works for me and for my 67s. Happy to share. I like the 67ii as ergonomically better in my view and a lot lighter. More electronics in it of course. That said getting a 3d printed right-hand grip gets you to the same place ish and without it, you get used to how they handle and feel with use so no biggie, each to their own. :-)
Sounds advice - really appreciate it 😀
Yea a grip sounds like a good idea. I’m gonna look into them
Hahaha yes 2k is pushing it
A non issue for him since he has the meterless prism.
I also have a Bronica ETRS and just got a 6x7 in the mail... did the same thing with the battery lol - stoked to see your shots with it!
Haha we are twins. I think it will be ok in the end - just gotta get out there and shoot
I hear you! I just got mine (a 67) and it was 100% stuck (winder wouldn’t do anything, shutter won’t fire, mirror stuck half way up.. you name it!) and I thought I got a junk camera. Then - mostly thanks to your video - I manage to reset the camera, loaded it with film and... it works now! Now I hope mine will focus right ;-) Huge thanks from Luxembourg 🇱🇺
dope! glad it was useful. we could all use some help sometimes 😊
Great camera. Film loading was hell in the beginning, but now it is better. I find that I have be in the mood to take that thing out, but the results are always great. Good luck Ribsy.
haha you need to be in the mood and well rested. thanks!
Always bring extra batteries with you. Take care of your advance lever, bring it back with your thumb when you advance, they said that advance levers of the first 6x7 gen. are the weak point.
ahh ok. Will make sure I don’t abuse it. Thanks for the tip 😃
@@ribsy also, there are these packs of 'dog collar' batteries that are the exact battery needed for the Pentax 6x7, you can get a 10 pack I believe for pretty dang cheap online. You could just throw a whole pack in your bag, pack, whatever and never be stuck.
Really interesting first impressions, I've been weighing this camera up for a while (no pun intended 😆)
haha i see what you did there. its a great tool ... i just need to stop messing around
Superb post, Ribsy !
thanks for watching
I’m probably buying my first Pentax 67 today! I happened to ask the right person at the right time if they had a Pentax 67 for sale, and they have a full brand new boxed kit with all the accessories still vacuum sealed! It’s never had a roll of film through it! Absolute pot luck find and I’m going back to seal the deal today
Wow that’s incredible. Enjoy
6x7 MLU shooter here. First of all, as you have discovered, this in NOT a fully-mechanical camera. But that's hardly a secret. Mirror is held in the up position using an electromagnet and the shutter speeds are also controlled electronically. The mirror bit is particularly important when you are doing very long exposures -- these can drain the battery. The electronically-controlled shutter is not a bad thing in my book as it keeps the speeds consistent. Having seen the service manual I'm under the impression that there's nothing special about the electronics (no exotic ICs and such) so it should still be repairable.
As for the order of operations - to me it behaves just like any other SLR from '70s onward, no special tricks needed. Check out the pdf manual available on the internet. If I remember correctly it even starts off with something along the lines of "since you bought this camera we assume you know what you're doing, so we won't go into the basics". :) Maybe your copy just needs some CLA?.. I had a problem with the camera getting stuck on one occasion. But this was pretty much my fault as I somehow managed to wind it 3/4 of the way through. Opening the back resolved it. So pay attention to always wind all the way, and as a general best practice for any camera, don't just let go of the winding lever letting it slap back, but instead gently guide it back.
From my experience the mirror slap isn't as big a deal as people claim (an neither is the weight!), but I still use MLU whenever I can. On the other hand, the shutter can be brutal. I've had several shots taken ON A TRIPOD blurry in the horizontal direction only because I didn't tighten the horizontal axis on the head enough.
I don't own the 105/2.4, but from what I've seen it has a somewhat longish minimum focus distance, so you might have trouble getting tight portraits. (half-body is probably fine but a headshot might not), so bear that in mind and test for yourself, before you commit to using it for a shoot.
Have fun!
Thanks for the info. Yea perhaps I review that manual haha. I really think my issue was in the improper loading/winding of the film
@@ribsy I'm not saying it wasn't. This camera does indeed do some sensing if the film is present and winding on. So much so that you can't shoot it with no film unless you do some voodoo (explained in the manual). Loading the film can take a bit of learning, particularly for someone with bigger hands, but you can practice with some old backing paper instead of film to get a feel for it.
Great beast! My suggestion going forward is Read The *Fine* Manual. Most camera manuals are available on the Internet if you search far enough. (I used a 6x7 years ago, briefly, and remember a lot of head scratching until, yes, reading the manual.)
Haha yea! Everyone yelled at me and told me to do so. And so I did! Have been loving the camera since I got it repaired
I recently got the 6x7 a few months ago, and I was a bit upset about the battery issues myself - bought the damn thing for a steal without the TTL chain thinking that's all the battery was good for. After a few months though I've gotten accustomed to the whole process, and I don't think I ever want to shoot on another system from here on out - permanently anyway outside of 35. The wooden grip and the waist level with a wide angle are just perfect for me, honestly, because I use mine mostly for city street landscapes. Hope you get more out of this beast with future sessions.
That said,, my one piece of advice is to pick up a 3D printed handle for the non-wooden grip side if you can. It really gives you so much more room to play with in landscape, and they are dirt cheap. I mean, tge wooden grip is a must; but with or without that grip just gives the system so much more versatility regardless that its worth consideration.
nice! glad it worked out for you. i need to just get used to it too
I had similar problems with my example including that shutter not closing. I tried replacing the battery and the shutter timing contacts as well with no improvements. My copy also had some issues with faulty shutter. I finally had to part with it. I was so disappointed. I hope that you can get your copy working as some when it did work it created some of my favorite pictures. Good luck.
i managed to finish the first test roll. hopefully, i do it right the next time!
Just picked up my own kit too! Thanks for the video, it helped me as I'm getting used to it. One question: does the shutter fire without a roll of film loaded? I put in a battery but can't seem to get it to fire 🤔
the shutter might fire once, but then will lock up, if there is no film. if yours is locked up, then load in a roll or try that hack that people talk about online
@@ribsy I found the hack, basically open the film chamber > twist the center dial in the frame counter to 1 to trick it into thinking it's loaded > then you can fire the shutter 👍🏽 thanks!
Barron Claiborne drawing in the background! Very cool. I just snapped my first roll a few minutes ago with this camera and I’m equally perplexed by the role of the battery and the film position. 🤞
haha def give the manual a look 😊
@@ribsy not sure which is more perplexing : the overpriced grip (also an American living in Europe so I feel the pain ) or the battery on my meterless 67. It almost makes you want to build your own modular medium format camera that accepts any lens doesn’t it ??
I think the shutter vibration is overblown. I have a mirror lock up version and I did a test with ant without MLU at 1/10 on a tripod and actually couldn't tell the difference. Although it was on a tripod, I heard that 1/10 without MLU was unusable. Especially if you do portraits, you'll never use it anyway.
The battery is used for the shutter timing. The nice thing about this is you don't have to worry about the delicate mechanical shutter timing mechanism running show and needing service. The only time I ever had a problem with it jamming as you described was shooting without a battery. You seemed concerned about the order of operations being wrong but I've never thought about it too much and never had a problem. I'm also unsure how loading the film wrong could cause it to stop winding. Maybe your battery was loose or backwards? (This is pretty easy to do.)
Loading the film is notoriously annoying, but I don't find it more difficult than a Hasselblad. The one tricky part is that sometimes I find it hard to get the film rolls seated properly. You have to make sure the lugs on the bottom are fully locked and the film isn't loose.
The most common thing to break it is if you have coupled viewfinder, you have to take off the lens before mounting the viewfinder or the chain will break. Since it looks like you have the regular prism, you don't need to worry. The light seals might also need replacing.
I think the investment is worth it. I got a 6x7 many years ago randomly (very cheap) without knowing much about it. And using other cameras over time has only made me appreciate the 6x7 more.
Thanks for the info. Seems like it’s a good tool despite the intricacies. mine seems to be in great condition as long as I don’t do what I did before again 🤣
nailed it
Yo that wicked you got a 67! They are so awesome. I was actually surprised to hear you were having so much trouble though. I know it's not helpful, but with mine I just loaded up the film and started shooting no problem. I mean, the first time it took me a little longer than expecting but it was because of a weird spool that was in the camera. I really cant even think of what the problem was. Have you put another roll through it? Are you making sure the roll is tight before you close the door?
yea im excited! i will be putting another roll through it soon enough now that i know what i did wrong
It’s pretty normal the first time to have these issues. The second issue some people have is focusing, Usually after their first portraits they go online wondering if there cameras are broken (they actually can be , the focusing screen can be out of alignment) but you just gotta keep practicing. I used to have a hard time loading film , then focusing, then just practicing composing (the finder only covers 90% or something. I honestly feel like I had just as many problems learning my bronica though.
yea i def need to practice with the camera. looking forward to it!
me right now, been having trouble focusing and seem to be straining my eyes but when the photos are in focus it’s unmatched! been practicing every week
Nice one man, my exact setup!
great! how do you like it?
hiya bud, I have a 6x7 pentax and I love it. get yourself a hand grip, they're the best. makes it much easier to use. I have a 55mm, 105mm and a 150mm lenses. I haven't had any such issues with mine. it has worked like a dream. this is however my 2nd 6x7, the first i had to return on ebay as it had some issues with missing frames + eating battery life. i searched around to get it serviced, know one would touch it (in Vancouver Canada), so i just returned it and got another one. that being said I would run some film through and you'll fall in love + with a hand grip :) hope that helps
glad it worked out! i think mine is fine after all, but lets hope i don't run into any issues haha
I have two 6x7s that I use regularly. Since I'm used to the modern right grips that you find on DSLRs, I bought a 3D printed right hand grip that much improves the feel of the camera in my right hand. I highly recommend it. BTW, don't feel bad that it's a non-MLU body. I see a lot of users on TH-cam who have taped over their lock-up button because they are constantly hitting it which wastes a frame.
gotcha
Judging by the comments, you've probably read the manual already haha. If not, one thing I'd say is to not remove the TTL prism finder without removing the lens first as it will damage the meter coupling chain (link between camera's aperture control and the TTL metered prism). Look forward to more videos with it 👊🏽
yup 😅 and noted. its with the camera doctor as we speak!
I have the 67ii. It doesn’t have the lens/prism chain problem, but film loading is nearly always troublesome; the film spool retainers are often reluctant to engage with the spools. The film advance mechanism is a known weakness. Don’t let the lever fly back after winding on; keep your thumb on it. Having said that, it’s probably my favourite MF camera for both ergonomics and the results I get!
heard the winder thing multiple times now. Noted! Haha
@@ribsy I’ve discovered that loading the film before breaking the seal seems to make it a bit easier.
You coming back to NYC anytime soon? If so, I can 3D print you a nice grip for the right side of the camera so it feels more like holding an slr
i hope to in april or so. you know, covid haha. and i would gladly take you up on that offer 😊
The Pentax 67II is an absolutely amazing camera. I didn't like the "old" 6x7 because of the dim view finder and the age of the camera. It was somehow starting to fall apart 😁 But the 6x7II is great. Especially the viewfinder is much brighter and it's got a really nice AE mode. I can definitively recommend it. Unfortunately it's very expensive. It's my favorite 6x7 camera together with the incredible (but also expensive) Mamiya 7II.
You’ve got this and mamiya?? Niceeee
@@ribsy Unfortunately not anymore. I sold both cameras together with my Shen Hao 4x5 large format camera a few years ago when I thought that digital cameras are now better than analog ones, but regretted it ever since 😅. Now I'm saving my money to get my hands on them again. Currently I already own a Zenza Bronica SQ, a Fuji GW690III, a Yashica 124 G and a Pentax ME Super as well as a Sony mirrorless system.
I have one - I’m a little further on the journey, but no expert. FWIW,
1. Occasionally I just lose a frame. Different models are better/worse I understand.
2. Shutter just won’t work without battery. So I think we’re stuffed if electrics die.
3. It won’t work without a film in, so you can’t just take a few empty shots to see how it works. No shutter, no wind, nothing. Worth using an old film back/messed up film to experiment. There is a way to trick it into thinking there’s a film in, but I haven’t mastered it.
Great when it all works.
yea! some basic but important rules. gonna do it right soon!
Had the exact same model back in the 80s. Great camera, heavy and finiky at times. No battery, no photos- even if its not digital! With the wood handle, can be used as an assualt weapon. Check local regs.
Haha def big enough to be a weapon
Love/Hate relationship with the Pentax 67. I can appreciate the build quality and the lens lineup. I can’t see myself selling it, but the viewfinder is dim (and I am blessed with 20/20 vision) and, there really should be a way to mount the camera strap (conventionally) while using the right hand 3D printed grip.
A lot of people shoot the Pentax 67 in low light and at night. I have no idea how they are able to focus the thing?
that finder really is dim! biggest pain point for that camera
Great video !! I don’t understand why people prefer MLU where non-MLU is just as good.... 🙄🙄🙄. A really good non-MLU in good condition is better than beaten up MLU. You can shoot 1/60sec no problem. For lenses longer than 200mm MLU feature is advised but ... a good steady tripod + release cable , you don’t need MLU. Trust me. I’ve had more than 20 Pentax 67.
About your problem with Pentax 67, it shouldn’t happen. If you don’t align film it doesn’t matter for the camera.... it can’t see your start mark. So you need to do a CLA, something maybe be off. Or just exercise your camera a bit , by firing the shutter without film. Maybe it need to work a little bit before shooting.
Ok first rule: never remove viewfinder before removing the lens. This is only for TTL prism. Yours is not TTL
Second rule: don’t be brutal on film advance lever, always advance it slowly AND you have to accompany it back ! Watch my videos and notice how I advance film lever. It’s very important in order to avoid premature wear.
Third rule: when installing new film don’t unroll it too much. Just enough to insert into take up spool so there is a good tension.
Verify your light seals.
That’s all :). Oh and last trick especially for those who have non-MLU. It’s common for non MLU to have 9 pictures or 9,5 out of 10. In this case put your start arrow to the screw next to BATT CHECK (2cm before 🔴 dot). Under the screw (screw is next to BATT CHECK)
haha thanks for the info. that makes me feel even better about my purchase 😊
The non-MLU vs MLU is not about "which one is better", but more which one is more reliable and younger. The non-MLU was launched in 1969, the MLU version in 1976 and had some improvements (mirror mechanisme, frame counter, etc.. ). And your first rule is wrong. You can remove the TTL finder first without problem, it's only when mounting the TTL finder that you need to do it on a body without lens.
As may people commented on the general use already I skip this point and focus on the lens you want to use for portrait photography:
In my view the 105/2.4 is very much overevaluated for portraits - focal lengst is quite short (~50mm 35mm equivalent) and minimum focussing distance is too far to get close portaits - so if you want to use it for that look for the short close-up ring. With the very shallow depth of field the high speed of the lens is not really a need and I would recommand the 135/3.5 Macro lens or the 165/2.8 as long as you want to use constant light - for studio/flash look for the 165/4LS.
Nevertheless when you have overcome the general operation issues you will have a lot of fun with this system.
btw: beside the expensive wooden left-hand grip there are 3d-printed right hand grips that improve the handling significantly.
yea good point. i've be interested in the 75mm lens. i actually really love shooting wide for portraits, so i will prob pick that up soon. a macro lens would def be nice too, of maybe some macro tubes
@@ribsy The 75/4.5 is excellent but quite close to 105. I would prefer 55/4 if I would have to pick only one wide angle
Fully agree with these points. Note that the LS (leaf shutter) lens is only useful where you are trying to balance flash with daylight. For pure studio flash, the camera's focal plane shutter will work as well, set at any speed of 1/30 or less since it is not controlling the exposure.
01:32 You can find templates for 3D printers for a side grip. Be warned though... you might trip the MLU accidentally with your fingers with the grip due to spacing. Bit of tape over the MLU Button (if you have it) solves that problem. Have fun!
no MLU here! haha
You got a tank in your hands!
I held one of those and wow they are heavy!
hahah it is def heavier than anything else
Hopefully you will get it working. All medium format system cameras are rather unforgiving. I shoot a Cameradactyl Hommunculus and swap the film back for a focusing screen if I really need to. Wish there was a different camera to shoot those beautiful Pentax lenses on.
thanks for the encouragement! i will be putting through another roll soon 😊
I upgraded from an ETRSi to the RZ and regret selling the ETRSi. I'd hold onto it, unless ya need the $. I wish I still had the camera for certain trips and hikes because it was somewhat compact and much lighter, at least in comparison to the RZ or Pentax 67. When I do certain things that the RZ is too much of a burden to bring, I'm left with my 35mm camera, having the middle ground would be nice!
good point! i really do think ima keep my etrs. its just such a good middle ground. we'll see how i feel once i start using the 6x7 more
I was shooting with my buddies 6x7 the other day and the battery died right as I clicked the last shot on the roll. Mirror locked up and I couldn't advance the film until I replaced it. What I always found comical is how SMALL the battery is compared to the camera its powering.
haha seriously! teeny tiny battery
@@ribsy I just got the roll back from the lab and the last frame is a super overexposed blank frame.
I've been using the 6x7 for almost a year now.. So far it has been pretty cooperative and straightforward as any 35mm SLR. No issues while shooting like you were talking about or anything. Then again I lined up the arrows and had fresh batteries everytime. Only problem I had is when the battery was done and you have to reset the camera using the button on the side and change batteries. Other than that everyting is smooth. Probably your camera has some mechanical issues?
Perhaps, works fantastic otherwise
Got to have good batteries in these. That will be causing the most of your problems. Buy a new battery and have a spare in your camera bag always. The rest of using the camera (once you get past the fiddly loading) is the same as any SLR. If you're still having problems after changing batteries it might be worth going for a CLA to check it over. There is a method of fooling the camera into firing the shutter without any film in it, be worth googling it so that you don't wate any film. I love using my Pentax 6x7 but I do enjoy it more with a grip on the right side, it's a 3D printed one but just gives that bit more control for me.
Cool. Gonna see how the next few experiences go. I’ll have to check out the grip!
You mention the battery. I would recommend to get a fresh new battery. I had a problem with my Pentax 67II when I began using after sitting servers years.
yea! i think my batteries are fine. i def confused the camera by not following directions
A monopod on a camera like this helps a ton with stability, even if you don't extend it to the ground. It will keep the camera from tilting if you hold the monopod against your body. Even without I don't think you'll have trouble with camera shake at slow speeds.
Yea a monopod could help, but not always possible to carry around
Great idea. I have a monopod as it is light.
Never fire the shutter without a good battery in it, this causes the mirror to get stuck, even with the non-MLU version.
Always make sure the arrows on the film and camera are aligned properly because you'll end up with 9 frames instead of 10.
Don't let the film advance shoot when you wound the film, always bring it back carefully.
simple enough! noted -- thanks 😊
My first partly mechanical film camera was a Pentax SP1000. It also locked up but all i could do was take the film out and and roll it back through.
gotcha. yea, i think mine is ok i just need to not mess around haha
Check the "Snapu" custom wooden grips. They're awesome !
The camera is pretty straightforward and reliable.
thanks! will do 😊
I haven’t had any issue with mine except battery running out quite quick if you leave it in not using for a few months and yes the results always worthy it. There are 3D print handgrip and also timber one from snappu on IG it definitely helps. Cheers for vid
good to know! always need some fresh batteries around
The camera is fully mechanical, supposedly it can even shoot at certain speeds without a battery (the original 6x7 version), I haven't tried that though. The battery is responsible for correct timings on the shutter speeds. The winding mechanism will only cock the shutter only when the counter is past 0, regardless of whether the film is inside. The backdoor pushes a mechanism when closed, which lets the camera advance the counter and cock the shutter, so you cannot do it with the door open.
My pentax has an issue of skipping the first frame occasionally, so I've decided to set the counter to 220 mode, which allows to cock the shutter past the 10th frame, and to never align the arrows on the back with the film, I just wind it a little bit and close the door. That way, if the camera skips the first frame, I don't actually lose it, because it's still the paper rolling there, and my working frames are 2-11. I also get half a frame or more extra each time :) Then I wind it to the ~16th frame and open the door.
Your mirror issue is probably something you should get servised, never experienced it with mine.
Thanks for the tip. Gonna do some real work with it soon and hopefully everything goes smoothly.
No, all Pentax 6x7's and 67's are completely battery-dependent. The battery powers the shutter and the mirror mechanism - actually for the part where it goes down again. Which makes sense, the up movement is spring loaded. You can't shoot without a battery - I mean actually take an exposed picture. You can make the mirror move up, but it will remain stuck in the up position, forcing you to manually let drop by pressing the small mechanical "emergency" button, as mentioned in the video.
@@caleidoo you’re right, I must have misremembered something. I had to change the battery recently, and that’s exactly what happened, although it seems as though the shutter worked and could’ve exposed a picture, while mirror obviously didn’t drop without the shutter reset button
Yes to the lens.
say yes to the lens! lol
I recently sold mine and switched to a Mamiya 645, it is just so more convenient.
good! i love 645, its a good middle ground. def not selling my ETRS
there are a lot of great lenses for this camera . I don’t understand the hype in the 105mm , I have the 90 mm 2.8 and it is amazing!
lots of amazing lenses. the 105mm has the most bokeh potential
i feel the same way when i used it last week!
haha good! i was starting to feel i was crazy or something
As long as the arrow is lined up it should be fine, it there are any spacing issues or it gets locked up then it might need to be looked at if changing the battery alone doesn’t fix it for good. Also never remove the prism without removing the lens first so you don’t brake the chain that communicates the ttl meter prism to the body.
This last point is super important! This is the sure way to kill your camera: the chain is not available to replace. I’ve not had any weird issues with my 6x7 in the six years I’ve owned it. I find it super irritating to get the film out afterward. Otherwise great camera.
@@karlmatthias2698 mine broke of age but I sent in to Steve’s Camera in Culver City CA and he was able to replace it with finishing wire (a method he worked out from experience) and I’m back in business 😊🤘🏽✨
yea i've heard about this a bit. i don't think ill be removing anything so i should avoid this haha
well that's good to know! lucky you 😊
I would only say check out the manual online to see what it says
yup! def gonna read the manual. shoulda done that first 😅
@@ribsy I found out from other photographers on a Facebook group that I’m on that you can wreck a few cameras by just diving in so it’s best to read the manual. Sometimes it’s just something simple that you have to do. Can try Negative Positive film podcast Facebook page as I know a few have this camera and they would more than willing to give advice based on their own experience with it
cool video, keep it up!
thanks 😊
Where did you buy it ? I’m trying to cop 1 G
got mine on ebay from a japanese seller. usually there are in good shape but you never know. i had to spend 80 extra to repair mine one i had it
There is plenty online about sticky mirrors (mirror getting stuck in the 'up' position, even with fresh batteries) on the Pentax 67's.
The various iterations of the Pentax 67 (obviously, excluding the Pentax 67 II) are anywhere from 30-something to 50 years old. I think it's well worth having a CLA and meter calibration (if you're using a metered prism) performed by a competent camera repair technician................just the cost of doing business when buying a semi-mechanical instrument of this age.
yup! the camera is def working properly but my new problem is that the mirror isn't aligned well. dropped it off today for CLA
Hasselblad 503CX+50mm Carl Zeiss Distagon T f4 lens. 120mm film & Digital backs.
Yea
so 8/9 months later would you recommend it?
Without a doubt yes
Never shoot hand held lower than 1/250th second (or is that higher?you'll get movement fuzzyness at 1/125th,and certainly at 1/60th).If you lock-up the mirror you can get away with 1/125th,or even 1/60th,but it's a chance.Get a sturdy tri-pod.Have the manfrotto 55c myself.Try the 90mm lens.Stunning lens,sharper than the 105mm.
i don't like this advice. you can def shoot lower especially for certain types of photography. maybe not landscape but even then you might be ok.
Good man yourself!
hahah cool 😎
I owned this camera for a couple months but ended up getting rid of it because it was unreliable and had hard time focusing. Ended up with the Pentax 645n instead
interesting. I’m gonna shoot a bit and see how I feel 😃
That's interesting. I've never had the 645n in my hands, so I'm curious: what makes it easier to focus?
As for reliability I think it depends on a particular copy, really. No problems here (knock on wood).
@@TrashTheLens 645n has a brighter viewfinder and autofocus. The 67 has a dim viewfinder and your dof is so thin if you’re shooting with the 2.4 lens
I like that portrait with a crown behind you. I think it’s cute. Meow!
thanks biggie
@@ribsy What’s ‘biggie’? Is that a name? haha
talking about a camera, saying that is frustrating before read the manual. LOL Well done! Its like talking about driving before read the the road code book.
i fully admit that i didn't read the manual. but its a camera, not a car ... shouldn't require reading of a manual
@@ribsy not agree, sorry buddy. If you do the same with a Mamiya RB67, you will end to go back to the store saying that camera doesn't work. It's about use, not maintaning, to use a care only need a drivers license and drive, the manual will be helpfull, yes, but not for you driving, but specially for maintain the car.
I’ve had so many good and bad results with this thing 😂
yea seems like there is a mixed bag. hope i get some good stuff
@@ribsy oh you will, that thing is a beast
I've used the Pentax 67 system, including two 6x7 MLU versions for more than 35 years. Re your problem(s): (1) Battery - the shutter operation and timing is controlled by the battery. Very accurate, however the signal for a nearly exhausted battery is that the mirror locks about half way up when you release the shutter. Is your battery fresh? (2) Your film advance is not jamming because you started the roll at the wrong place. Doing that would just misplace your images along the roll. You are misloading your film. You load a new roll into the camera in a conventional manner. Then you advance the leader to the start point. The trick is that you need to apply a little pressure to the new roll as you do this to put some tension on the leader, so it winds tightly on the take-up spool. If you do not do this, the leader (paper) may wrap loosely, causing the film later to do so as well. This causes the loosely wrapping film to take too much room in the take-up chamber and physically jam. Other roll film cameras of this general design tend to have the same problem, but the Pentax is extra sensitive to it. (3) "Why doesn't Pentax tell us these things?" They do, in fact they devote half a page in the manual to it. But in the age of internet video, it isn't cool to read the instructions, is it. In summary, your problem isn't the camera, it's you being a dope.I went 15 years before this happened to me, but then I didn't read the manual either.
Thanks for the info - this is very helpful. To be fair, I’ve never read a single manual for any film camera I’ve purchased and I probably won’t ever 😅
Get a right hand 3D printed grip off ebay. Seriously it'll drastically change your whole experience with the thing and is so worth it as they're very cheap
yea! good call - def will do so
Keep the Bronica Etrs . The 645 format yields a negative which is large enough for general portraiture. If you shoot portraits from a tripod, either camera will work well in a studio, but only the Bronica's leaf shutter will adequately balance a mix of flash and daylight. The LS lenses for the Pentax allow use of a leaf shutter built into the lens, but they are at best a clumsy workaround. If you hand-hold for portraits, the weight of the Pentax will break you in the first sitting. Also, sorry you bought the hype over the 105mm lens. It's too short for portraits, and in terms of general performance, is the least capable (although not "bad") of the several lenses useful as a "normal" focal length lens on the Pentax, yet all the hype has doubled its price in the last few years. ["But the 105 has bitching bokah". Yeh, don't we all.)
Agreed - the bronica is super convenient and capable, this I really enjoy using it. Will def keep it.
With the 105 I am chasing a look. Funny enough, I actually prefer to shoot with wider lenses for portraits so, I will eventually get a 75mm. Got a good deal on the 105 so it just made sense 😊
@@ribsy The 75mm 4.5 is about as old as the 105mm, but it is one of the sharpest lenses in the inventory and also remarkably low priced. It's perspective is roughly that of a 35mm lens on a 35mm format camera. If you use it for head and shoulders portraits, that perspective yields something of a "camel nose" look - not the most flattering. If you want to stand out in the crowd, look for the 120mm portrait lens Pentax sold early on for the system. It's trick is that you can dial in various degrees of spherical aberation, which has the effect of softening the image to whatever degree you want. Reported to be quite sharp if used normally. I've never seen one, but they are neither rare or pricy, as interest and sales were low. Pentax dropped it from the catalog in the late 1980s after half a dozen years of manufacture.
I have not shot the original 6x7, but I know that the 67II is an amazing experience but also requires you to line up that arrow when loading. But overall a great camera to use, far better than the 6x7. Even the 67 would be a little easier from what I understand.
yea def, i just need to make to sure follow a few simple steps and i should be ok! 😊
I had a very similar experience at the gate bro...Happy to report she the absolute bees knees now. One word of advice tho...and very important. YOU MUST NOT RELEASE THE PRISM WHILST LENS IS MOUNTED. This could buckle the chain link for TTL metering my friend. Don't take my word for it, its something I found readily on the web. Please double check. Great vid as always...and congrats
thats good to hear! i was worried mine was gonna be a dude but it seems to work fine now 😊
Well, no. Taking it off is no problem, with or without lens. It's only of you mount the prism back on the camera, that you have to do it without a lens attached - this resets the chain so the prism can align with it and then it's ready for a lens to be attached and start the linkage between the lens & the prism finder. And all this is only necessary if you have the TTL prism. Which he clearly doesn't have, so all this is not even relevant for him. So he can take it on & off as much as he wants, with or without lens. Just like a waist level finder.
@@caleidoo wow. Thanks for putting me straight and taking the time to do so man. Really helpful and appreciated. I've clearly been misinformed. I did say 'to double check that ' as there is a bunch of conflicting guidelines even here on TH-cam. So again, massive thanks for clearing this up. And apologies, my intention was good
After 2 years I suspect you are a real expert with your 6x7 or you have sold it. You were doing things right with the loading after a few missteps. As you know, the battery is very important to the function of the camera. DO NOT use 4LR44 Alkaline batteries in it. It will work but an Alkaline battery's voltage drops off rapidly as the battery drains down. Low voltage can cause the camera to malfunction. I recommend you use a 4SR44 Silver Oxide battery because it will hold the voltage longer as it drains down. I'm currently using Camelion 4SR44 batteries. Keep the Alkaline batteries as spares.
i used it for many great things but eventually sold it
A lot of complaints, why don't you use fully automatic and 2021`s camera? This camera model is over 30 years!
Not complaints, just things to fix. And I did fix them and the camera is amazing now
There’s a wooden grip made for it I remember.
yea
I have a 'bad' body where the mirror sticks at all shutter speeds except 3 of them. It is a mechanical issue that appears to be relatively easy to fix if you are handy. You may have one of those too? You can test your shutter speeds without film th-cam.com/video/xk8xGyBQegU/w-d-xo.html Also if it turns out your camera has that issue here is a guide for potential fix skrasnov.com/pentax-67/stuck-mirror-repair/
Yea I got it fixed already. Works great now
IMHO you must use at least 1/250 sec to get kinda sharp images; if you want sharp-sharp images you MUST use a tripod.
hmmm i'm gonna have to test that myself
It's not that frustrating especially when I had technician modified my 6x7 into hassy v Mount
interesting!
You need to learn how to load the film propery. I have had had 3 pentax 6x7 and heve never had one single problem loading the film and advancing on. You must line the arrows up to the correct spot and close the back then wind on until it stops.Then just take 10 photos 120 or 20 photos on 220. Be carefull not to get the shutter speed dial inbetween stops at tha will cause problems. The 6x7 is a great camera it's the ideal format and has really fast lense 2.4 105mm, 2.8 165mm.
Yea I’m aware haha. Once I leased properly it seemed to be ok. I also have the 2.4 lens 😃
>> Be carefull not to get the shutter speed dial inbetween stops
With one exception. The position in between 'X' an '1000' is documented in the manual as the "T" mode (just not spelled out on the dial itself). :)
The mirror is the same size as car wing mirror 125 below than you shake
what is the car wing?
Looks like I'll be staying away from that one 🤣
haha don't let me dissuade you. the results hopefully are worth it
@@ribsy I have a feeling I would have had the same frustrations as you. I have limited patience. Lol. Something I do really need to work on. Lol.
If all else fails, consult the manual ;-)
yup!
Get a Mamiya RB67 :P
haha maybe one day. i can't justify that now
Too this day i don't understand why people dont download a free owners manual... fuck its that easy.. GRINS
lol
So basicly you dont know your camera, and you Think you Can be a master pentax67 shooter at once..... in my experience, you simple have to test and practice every single camera you get to make the most of it..... just get out and shoot some rolls, Then youll get it. Maybe not at first.... you know what i mean
correct. i don't know my camera and thus i am crowdsourcing advice for myself and for others who buy the camera in the future
… you can hit someone with it as a defensive weapon. A BIG *ss camera. Meow! I’d be mad with this camera…
LOL yup
The best piece of advice that I can give you is, get a Mamiya RB or RZ.
hahaha perhaps. i won't be doing that any time soon
Dude, stop the drama and just read the manual before using a camera...
sorry dude
@@ribsy I don't hate the playa, I hate da game... I get you want views and for that, you try to engage your subscribers but the title is misleading as it is a perfectly fine camera; not frustrating at all.
I find it the simplest, most straightforward camera available and it produces high end commercially competitive results. There are two settings: shutter speed and ASA. Aperture and focus are on the lenses. That's it.
If you have a functional metered finder it is as simple as frame, focus, hold a grey card in the light to take a reading and adjust the shutter and aperture accordingly. If not, use a hand held meter and work with it to ascertain how the meter relates to the outcome.
You have repeated an often held belief in regards to the 105mm f2.4 lens. It is a fast lens but 105 equates to 50 mm focal length in 35mm- not an optimal focal length for portraiture - the 105 is the kit general purpose lens. While there are people who swear by their images of people shot with 35 and 50 mm lenses (35mm format) I do this for a living and I laughingly disagree.
At 100% a 67 MF can provide lovely background OOF rendering at f5.6- the average lens is 3.5- so don't let yourself think in terms of modern advertising where faster is always so much more desirable. The pentax 135mm lens ( approx 77mm in 35mm format) shot at 5.6 will give you a focal plane barely deep enough for nose to ear on an adult head head and shoulders. I shoot terribly attractive faces and I want them to be in focus.
Cheers.
thanks for the info. i actually prefer wider focal lengths for portraits so the equivalence to 50 is a plus in my book. in fact, i just got myself at 75 which gets me close to a 35mm equivalence. to each their own 😊