I love how pragmatic and methodical James is and the relaxing (almost Mr. Roger's like) cadence that he carries his work out with. He is very relaxing to watch. He is also very tenacious and determined...great qualities to have.
And of course his good habit of cleaning everything (within reason). Quite important to spot future leaks in use. About the relaxation part, I fully agree.
Started watching (listening) to this channel because of the voice. For over a year I went to sleep to the methodical repair and diagnostic procedures of generator repair. I have been brain washed me thinks. Within 20 months, I found myself the proud owner of 3 fully operational generators, non worked upon purchase, and just bought my first new generator. Honda 2200i ! Zen and the Art of Generator Repair. Love this channel.
James, I hold you and Mustie1 both personally responsible for my ever expanding small engine obsession! 😂, I’m constantly trawling face book market place for small bargains. Thanks to you both, I find repairing anything like this quite therapeutic and a good way to unwind, and watching you and Mustie1 takes all the fear out of getting stuck in, as I know what to expect. Keep the videos coming James. 😊
I could definitely add both to my list but also there are composition of Donyboy73, Chickanic, Taryl Fixes All, Steve's Small Engine Saloon and Home Garage/Inside House Garage to name a few.
This is one of those situations that you don't know if you can until you try. I hope this encourages others to think outside the box when fixing stuff.
Good show Jim I do remember the first part in 21 ,,your series are always informative and matter of fact you cut no corners and do things the right way ,complete with instructions of Why
Great save James can't wait for update on powerhead install and test run. Keep posting and hopefully some small engine shops see this and hold on to parts that can be reused and sold. Tks as always for your information that you put out there for those that still DYI our equipment. Michael
Not related to this video specifically, but this week I fixed a go kart using the James-Condon-gas-tank-derusting method! Your videos definitely help lots of people, I’m sure.
Blown away by this video James. I wish I had half your knowledge. This is my retirement hobby in the making. I'm convinced these motors (Vanguards, GX's) should last forever for the average consumer with just the minimum maintenence.
Honda engines for sure, Vanguards still don't hold a candle to Honda or Kohler Command Pro...Honda clones, you name it, it will beat Briggs. Briggs engines were incredibly temperamental at times and the one Vanguard was no exception. Now that they are made in the States instead of Japan, I can see no good happening to the Vanguard line. Toyota Group knows how to make engines, it's one of if not the largest auto makers on the planet. That said, Toyota doesn't produces nearly as many engines as Honda and Honda produces more engines than Briggs. Granted, Briggs has been known to produce more single cylinder air cooled engines but Honda has more experience as it makes engines for almost anything including cars, motorcycles, power equipment, marine, combined heat and power units, performance racing, air craft etc. It's also funny that Briggs and Stratton companies also use Honda engines on some of its top of the line equipment. The Ferris FW15 wide-area lawn mower is powered by the vertical shaft variant of the engine in this video. Snapper's top of the line walk behind 21" mower is powered by Honda's GXV160.
You don't know how helpful this video is. I have a BlackMax that has the exact same engine and weird 2 part crank case cover with a bad stator thats discontinued. If this goes well for you, it looks like a way to bring that BlackMax back to life.
Well, Professor, I wouldn’t blame you a bit if you charged tuition for these classes, uh, I mean videos. What a great learning experience watching you work! Thank you.
Wow, I’m really surprised the Honda clone oil sump section fit the genuine Honda engine with no issues. I always thought they changed things just a little bit on the clones to prevent legal trouble, or at least to cut manufacturing costs. Amazing job!
Hello James: Well done again. Your attention to detail missed a small bit that surprised me. Possibly you corrected the bent fins on the starter housing off camera. It will not make the engine run any better but esthetically it would look better if they were straightened. Still another unit saved from the land fill and ready for another 30 years of service. Keep the quality up and the videos coming.
James,a piece of Perspex,tap the edge with hammer will create a razors edge,it wont damage Ali,this is used in the fibreglass industry to clean moulds it’s very successful,all the best from Perth 🇦🇺👍
James, you just saved me time and money....THANX ALOT I watched several of your videos on drilling out jets to resolve surging problems, my pressure has always surged and never knew how to fix it, until I watched your videos in idle circuits, I found my idle circuit and took your advice to the letter and was patient, till I fixed the issue. I had to drill out the idle jet 3 times to get the results I wanted. Thankyou from California. Liked, subscribed and donated.
Thanks I appreciate it. Glad to hear it running well. A lot of new engines surge from day one. I find drilling that jet is the only way to get it running right.
Interesting video, as always. I am not at all surprised that a 29 year old Honda still starts and runs as I have a Honda GXV120 powered Honda HR214 lawn mower that still starts after roughly 40 years and even older Honda flathead G and GV engines on two Honda snow throwers and a Honda tiller, over 40 years old a piece that are the same. The tiller was also once a piece of rental equipment and well used and/or abused. Of all of the engines I have had over the years, I put Honda at the top of my list (and that includes the clone engines I have bought as well, one of them being a direct clone of the GX390 you have in this video that's on my 5500VA running generator as well as the 420 cc monster on my Cub Cadet snow blower). Closely following are Echo, Kohler Command Pro (my two 12.5 hp Kohlers are getting harder to find parts) and Tecumseh and dead last by a fair distance is Briggs and Stratton.
When banging new bearings into the endplate, Chill the bearings which you did. A little lube on the bearing outer race and and in the endplate and heat it a bit longer. Put a solid piece of hardwood on the concrete floor and carefully hit the bearings with your large hammer. Your lift absorbs a lot of the energy from the hammer blows. I saw the large bearing fall into place but the small one took to much pounding.
Arrived in time to give "like" number 225 and finished the video at "like" number 512... and counting. Good work, James. Not that you need me to tell you that. 😄
You are a talented guy. That is hardly news, and some of the talents are obvious. However, you have one more talent that, frankly, is a surprise to me and something I’m sure you never thought of: for some inexplainable reason, you are able to hold my attention watching you scrub old oil off engine parts with WD40, a scrub brush, and a handful of paper towers. I, for one, find that impressive. Thanks.
For blind hole removal try packing with heavy wheel bearing grease behind the bearing with a very close fitting wooden dowel wack it with that heavy hammer hydraulic pressure will pop it right out.
Wet small chunks of paper works when heavy grease goes through the bearing. Pound in the paper chunks using a bolt that fits the bearing id hole. Another trick when installing the bearings is to grind old bearing race that is tight, and use that old bearing to tap new bearing in
I have been working on engines for many years. I always wondered what that spring was on the governor linkage. Thank you for that information. Thanks for your video's as well. I find them very informative.
I always wondered how close the castings were to the original Honda casting. I use a transmission assembly lube tacky grease that holds the lifters in nicely. Great job!!!
Nice as always. As you said looks like it had quite a few hours with wonky oil at the end. Hope all your good work won't be for naught due to something else going sideways in the near term.
23:40 A suggestion for if you needed to use a socket to tap in, is to put some grease in the back of the seal in the cavity where the lip seal tension spring is (if it uses one?). The grease will help keep the spring from popping off from vibration when you hit the socket, which you may not see happen since the backside is hidden by the bearing.
Great work James!! I never thought I would see you kind of downgrade (of sorts) a Honda engine lol, but hey it worked! Your patience, knowledge, skill, and tenacity are quite admirable. Hopefully that cover will be in similar quality to the rest of the Honda motor. It should be no problem. You saved that engine, electric starter and all to work with a clone power head! At some point I was listening to hear you say "scalpel" but "razor blade" is close enough. I will enjoy seeing that motor powering up a large generator in the future. James has rebuilt it. He has the technology! I think that doctors should also have some additional experience rebuilding motors, and be successful at it before working on us...Yep...lol
James, you should try a pull gasket scraper. I have the Wilde Tool 516 I got off Amazon and I found it to work really well. I feel like it gives me more control and it is much less prone to gouging when scraping gaskets on softer substrates like aluminum. The carbide scraper is great on harder material. Love your videos. Keep up the great work.
Hi.. I've been a mechanic for decades, much easier to remove gaskets with products like crc gasket remover..saves time, just have to be cautious of sensitive materials that may be damaged...better then hitting gear teeth with scaper...keep up the great work you do sir...cheers.
Amazing as always! 👍 now that’s some recycling ♻️ at its finest! Often have I wondered if swapping out covers could work. 🤔 Well you answered that question with one awesome video!
great job as always, interesting the way you changed the bearings and oil caps from both sides of the engine, I think this is the first time I´ve seen you do that
Measure the voltage on the charge coil. If it AC, then you will need a diode in series to charge the battery. If the output is DC, you should be good to go. You might b able to use the diode test on your meter depending on the coil resistance. If you get the same reading whilst reversing leads, you will need a diode. If you get a low reading one way and a high reading the other way, there is probably a diode in the lead. My experience with 2 cylinder Honda engines with the same charge coil is you're gonna need a diode. Great save!
not sure if someone has asked this before, why don't you use a pressure washer and degreaser to save the hand scrubbing? then use the brush afterwards. Might save a bit of elbow grease in the long run. Thank you for posting this.
James, you should make a video on how you make videos. Please show us how you record, edit and post? What software do you use? Over the years you have gotten very good and I have watched them all.
There’s a difference between back fire and after fire. The solenoid valve on the carb main jet is to reduce the possibility of after fire caused by unburnt ( ignition killed) fuel being sucked into a muffler may have red hot rough internal flanges etc that then ignite the raw fuel with a quite violent pop.
The balance shaft like you showed needs to be timed. The crankshaft counter weights balances the piston weight and momentum at top dead center and bottom dead center. When the crankshaft counter weight is at 90 degrees now the weight is too much and causes crankshaft counter weight vibration because the weight and momentum is much different and is out of balance at that point. Here is where the balance shaft does its thing, it counter balances the crankshaft counter weight at the right time 90 degrees with opposing force.
I can really appreciate how thorough you are with your work. It is nice learning how to do things properly. It is a pleasure learning from you. I think you are a perfectionist. I recently worked on an engine for a push mower where I was unable to remove the blade adapter. I could only open it about 16 inches. I was barely able to clean the gasket surface at all. Even after breaking one of the sump cover bolts and tightening all of them by hand with no torque wrench, it is still sealing perfectly and doesn't leak a drop. I have never owned a torque wrench. What is the benefit of using them? I am looking to purchase one soon when I sell my next machine. I don't understand the benefit of using one, but i would like to understand it. Why is it necessary to use one?
For some things you need it, like on the connecting rod and flywheel. Most you do not. But I use one if the manufacture specified a torque value. Just helps ensure you do not break a bolt and applies even pressure on the part being secured.
They used to make a spray gasket remover I used for gaskets like that when I worked on cars in the 80s. Spray it on, let it set for 15 minutes, and it would soften the gasket right up. I am not sure, but I think it was made by Permatex. Don't get any on an open cut if I remember right.
It would be lovely if you had/used an hydraulic press for those bearings. I mean I myself have hammered many bearings in. But having an hydraulic press brings more satisfaction, I think. Anyway, keep on keeping on bringing good content.
Another superb revival James & a plethora of knowledge right along w it , as usual ! Referenced you're MZ360 swap to Responder gen head last week , and pulled off an identical swap . Currently finishing up a Generac 5500EXL , carb kit & filters due in a few days . Have a Techimcal question, need a complete cyl head for a Honda clone 18hp single cyl , Gen 2 . Unit is a DuroMax XP 10,000 EH . BLOCK #'S - MF192FD *170913337* Curious if a cyl head from say a 15 , or 16hp would be the same head ? Or even a cyl head from a twin cyl emgine of slightly lower ratimgs . I've found the actual cyl head on Generator GuRu , but its upward of $240 + . Customer wants to try a cheaper route of possible ?
Another enjoyable video, James. BTW I'm down here out of Houston running my B&S 8250/5500 Storm Responder. Going on four days, shutting engine down to refuel about every ten hours and checking the oil. I am using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30. I need to get your shipping address to send you some parts from an aborted generator repair project.
James i have an A-IPower that I'm trying to find an air box cover for and would like to know if you have a suggestion as to were to find one as i have had no luck. All your videos have helped me repair quite a few generators now. Thank you for all you content.
@@jcondon1 SC2000i is the model No. It has been a great little generator. When I got it it wouldn't run at all. Mostly due to stuck valves due to carbon buildup. The previous owner did not follow service manual recommendations to clean the carbon buildup off the head and valves after so many hours. Took some research between all your videos and the online service manual to figure it all out.
@@leebartholomew4737 it looks to be a clone of a Yamaha EF2000. So maybe a Yamaha cover will fit. Depends on how clone of a clone it is. You may need to buy the whole airbox. Also many other manufacturers use the same Yamaha clone engine. The erayak generator I did a video on has the same setup.
That is the exact same. I wish I had recorded me taking it apart and doing the repairs. It was very tricky. Adjusting the valves was just as difficult as you mentioned it may be in the review video.
The governor spring will cause surging? I have been fighting a GCV160 revival for a year. I have replaced the entire fuel system, and replaced or cleaned everything in the ignition system, but it still occasionally surges. That is something I never thought of.
The spring that goes on the governor rod is an anti surge spring. Without it, the play where the rod connects to the carb and governor arm can cause surging.
I working on a push mower with a GCV160 manual choke. Much like the carb on this engine, the choke will not close completely unless I close it by hand.It does not close when the lever is set to full choke. I do not see anything that is damaged or not installed correctly, though something obviously must be. The carb and choke lever are new OEM parts. What are the possible causes?
Suggestion: if you cant get gaskets off, just burn them off. All they are is paper and it makes it easier to remove those stubborn ones that won’t come off. Your welcome
It looks like the genuine Honda casting overall looks smoother with nicer fillets in the casting. But china is so crazy to copy everyone down to the mm.
Many years ago I heard that you are supposed to clean and lubricate head bolts before you tighten them down. When I see people on TH-cam tightening down head bolts, it looks like they are dirty and rusty and won't get accurate torque. This sounds like a real issue. I can understand that If a bolt is Rusty you might get the proper torque on the head of the bolt but the bolt head may not even be touching the cylinder head. Or even if it is touching it may not have enough pressure on the head allowing for blown gaskets. What would you say about this?
I love how pragmatic and methodical James is and the relaxing (almost Mr. Roger's like) cadence that he carries his work out with. He is very relaxing to watch. He is also very tenacious and determined...great qualities to have.
Yes! A Maritimer I expect!
And of course his good habit of cleaning everything (within reason). Quite important to spot future leaks in use. About the relaxation part, I fully agree.
Started watching (listening) to this channel because of the voice. For over a year I went to sleep to the methodical repair and diagnostic procedures of generator repair. I have been brain washed me thinks. Within 20 months, I found myself the proud owner of 3 fully operational generators, non worked upon purchase, and just bought my first new generator. Honda 2200i ! Zen and the Art of Generator Repair. Love this channel.
James, I hold you and Mustie1 both personally responsible for my ever expanding small engine obsession! 😂, I’m constantly trawling face book market place for small bargains. Thanks to you both, I find repairing anything like this quite therapeutic and a good way to unwind, and watching you and Mustie1 takes all the fear out of getting stuck in, as I know what to expect. Keep the videos coming James. 😊
I could definitely add both to my list but also there are composition of Donyboy73, Chickanic, Taryl Fixes All, Steve's Small Engine Saloon and Home Garage/Inside House Garage to name a few.
Hello. I watch exactly those channels!!😊. Saludos from Mexico
You should find a local construction company. They always need things worked on.
This is one of those situations that you don't know if you can until you try. I hope this encourages others to think outside the box when fixing stuff.
Yes!
Find yourself a therapist that cares for your mental health the way James cares for the operation of generators and small engines.
Or a wife/husband 😮
Don’t find yourself a therapist
they do not exist, the only thing that works in the long run is The Savior!
@@tomsing6384 Which one?
There's literally THOUSANDS!
My therapist said I was a lost cause and fired me as a patient. lol.
Impressive the ability to reach back in archive footage and link the past and present in a cohesive manner. That’s high production value.
Good show Jim I do remember the first part in 21 ,,your series are always informative and matter of fact you cut no corners and do things the right way ,complete with instructions of Why
I love the sound of a clicking torque wrenchs in the morning
Sounds like...victory....
Sounds like another dreadful and horrible long day at work.
I’m glad the magnet on the flywheel made you chuckle!!
I thought that was funny, he reinstalled the flywheel but didn't align the magnet away from his work.
Great save James can't wait for update on powerhead install and test run.
Keep posting and hopefully some small engine shops see this and hold on to parts that can be reused and sold.
Tks as always for your information that you put out there for those that still DYI our equipment.
Michael
2021! Should have done an old timey black and white filter on that footage. Feels like a lifetime ago.
There's no lame in your game, James. 3 years but you got it running again.
Not related to this video specifically, but this week I fixed a go kart using the James-Condon-gas-tank-derusting method! Your videos definitely help lots of people, I’m sure.
Blown away by this video James. I wish I had half your knowledge. This is my retirement hobby in the making. I'm convinced these motors (Vanguards, GX's) should last forever for the average consumer with just the minimum maintenence.
They usually do, if taken care of.
Honda engines for sure, Vanguards still don't hold a candle to Honda or Kohler Command Pro...Honda clones, you name it, it will beat Briggs. Briggs engines were incredibly temperamental at times and the one Vanguard was no exception. Now that they are made in the States instead of Japan, I can see no good happening to the Vanguard line. Toyota Group knows how to make engines, it's one of if not the largest auto makers on the planet. That said, Toyota doesn't produces nearly as many engines as Honda and Honda produces more engines than Briggs. Granted, Briggs has been known to produce more single cylinder air cooled engines but Honda has more experience as it makes engines for almost anything including cars, motorcycles, power equipment, marine, combined heat and power units, performance racing, air craft etc. It's also funny that Briggs and Stratton companies also use Honda engines on some of its top of the line equipment. The Ferris FW15 wide-area lawn mower is powered by the vertical shaft variant of the engine in this video. Snapper's top of the line walk behind 21" mower is powered by Honda's GXV160.
the problem is it runs on Gas, got to get ride of the gas
@@tomsing6384 not in your lifetime !
Like always another great video-and one of the best parts was at 1:24:20 "...in the next few weeks you're going to see this engine again..."
Jim, thats some fine work you did there. Much appreciation to you for being meticulous in your procedures.
You don't know how helpful this video is. I have a BlackMax that has the exact same engine and weird 2 part crank case cover with a bad stator thats discontinued. If this goes well for you, it looks like a way to bring that BlackMax back to life.
Well, Professor, I wouldn’t blame you a bit if you charged tuition for these classes, uh, I mean videos. What a great learning experience watching you work! Thank you.
@@EvaderGuy yes some junior college is missing a heck of a small engine and generator instructor.
Wow, I’m really surprised the Honda clone oil sump section fit the genuine Honda engine with no issues. I always thought they changed things just a little bit on the clones to prevent legal trouble, or at least to cut manufacturing costs. Amazing job!
Came here to say this
Its always interesting watching you work your magic on these engines. Well done.
Hello James: Well done again. Your attention to detail missed a small bit that surprised me. Possibly you corrected the bent fins on the starter housing off camera. It will not make the engine run any better but esthetically it would look better if they were straightened. Still another unit saved from the land fill and ready for another 30 years of service. Keep the quality up and the videos coming.
James,a piece of Perspex,tap the edge with hammer will create a razors edge,it wont damage Ali,this is used in the fibreglass industry to clean moulds it’s very successful,all the best from Perth 🇦🇺👍
That sounds like a great idea. You mean snap the edge off by hitting it?
@@generessler6282 yes,hang the edge over something solid,tap with hammer it brakes off @an angle,when it gets blunt do the same again 🇦🇺👍
James, you just saved me time and money....THANX ALOT I watched several of your videos on drilling out jets to resolve surging problems, my pressure has always surged and never knew how to fix it, until I watched your videos in idle circuits, I found my idle circuit and took your advice to the letter and was patient, till I fixed the issue. I had to drill out the idle jet 3 times to get the results I wanted. Thankyou from California. Liked, subscribed and donated.
Thanks I appreciate it. Glad to hear it running well. A lot of new engines surge from day one. I find drilling that jet is the only way to get it running right.
You really are a Dr. Frankenstein of small engines. Congrats.
Interesting video, as always. I am not at all surprised that a 29 year old Honda still starts and runs as I have a Honda GXV120 powered Honda HR214 lawn mower that still starts after roughly 40 years and even older Honda flathead G and GV engines on two Honda snow throwers and a Honda tiller, over 40 years old a piece that are the same. The tiller was also once a piece of rental equipment and well used and/or abused.
Of all of the engines I have had over the years, I put Honda at the top of my list (and that includes the clone engines I have bought as well, one of them being a direct clone of the GX390 you have in this video that's on my 5500VA running generator as well as the 420 cc monster on my Cub Cadet snow blower). Closely following are Echo, Kohler Command Pro (my two 12.5 hp Kohlers are getting harder to find parts) and Tecumseh and dead last by a fair distance is Briggs and Stratton.
Very interesting video. A "ClonDa" is born! Keep up the great work. Closing in on 200K subs - congrats!
Thank you!
When banging new bearings into the endplate, Chill the bearings which you did. A little lube on the bearing outer race and and in the endplate and heat it a bit longer. Put a solid piece of hardwood on the concrete floor and carefully hit the bearings with your large hammer. Your lift absorbs a lot of the energy from the hammer blows. I saw the large bearing fall into place but the small one took to much pounding.
Great job, James. At least it didn't cost you too much to get it back to top running order. Thanks for sharing.
Arrived in time to give "like" number 225 and finished the video at "like" number 512... and counting. Good work, James. Not that you need me to tell you that. 😄
James you need to repaint the front cover to Generic orange. Overall you did a super job.
The engine is going to repower a yellow champion. Hopefully will get that video in the works soon.
Super gorgeous, James! Lovely work! Highly enjoyable! Well done! Thank-you!!
Very well done, we appreciate all of your insights, thoughts, shortcuts and experience, it truly makes it much easier for many people. Cheers
You are a talented guy. That is hardly news, and some of the talents are obvious. However, you have one more talent that, frankly, is a surprise to me and something I’m sure you never thought of: for some inexplainable reason, you are able to hold my attention watching you scrub old oil off engine parts with WD40, a scrub brush, and a handful of paper towers. I, for one, find that impressive. Thanks.
For blind hole removal try packing with heavy wheel bearing grease behind the bearing with a very close fitting wooden dowel wack it with that heavy hammer hydraulic pressure will pop it right out.
Wet small chunks of paper works when heavy grease goes through the bearing. Pound in the paper chunks using a bolt that fits the bearing id hole. Another trick when installing the bearings is to grind old bearing race that is tight, and use that old bearing to tap new bearing in
I have been working on engines for many years. I always wondered what that spring was on the governor linkage. Thank you for that information.
Thanks for your video's as well. I find them very informative.
Runs great!! 12V charging works properly too. Nice job!!
I always wondered how close the castings were to the original Honda casting. I use a transmission assembly lube tacky grease that holds the lifters in nicely. Great job!!!
Great job on your expertise on Honda engines 🎉❤. Enjoying your videos from East Texas.
Great job and great video Jim! Very informative and we’ll be looking forward to seeing that engine powering a generator again!
Nice as always. As you said looks like it had quite a few hours with wonky oil at the end. Hope all your good work won't be for naught due to something else going sideways in the near term.
23:40 A suggestion for if you needed to use a socket to tap in, is to put some grease in the back of the seal in the cavity where the lip seal tension spring is (if it uses one?). The grease will help keep the spring from popping off from vibration when you hit the socket, which you may not see happen since the backside is hidden by the bearing.
The master did it again. Good video James.
Great work James!! I never thought I would see you kind of downgrade (of sorts) a Honda engine lol, but hey it worked! Your patience, knowledge, skill, and tenacity are quite admirable. Hopefully that cover will be in similar quality to the rest of the Honda motor. It should be no problem. You saved that engine, electric starter and all to work with a clone power head! At some point I was listening to hear you say "scalpel" but "razor blade" is close enough. I will enjoy seeing that motor powering up a large generator in the future. James has rebuilt it. He has the technology! I think that doctors should also have some additional experience rebuilding motors, and be successful at it before working on us...Yep...lol
James, you should try a pull gasket scraper. I have the Wilde Tool 516 I got off Amazon and I found it to work really well. I feel like it gives me more control and it is much less prone to gouging when scraping gaskets on softer substrates like aluminum. The carbide scraper is great on harder material. Love your videos. Keep up the great work.
Will take a look. I have a carbide scraper. Works great, but on aluminum not my first choice.
Hi.. I've been a mechanic for decades, much easier to remove gaskets with products like crc gasket remover..saves time, just have to be cautious of sensitive materials that may be damaged...better then hitting gear teeth with scaper...keep up the great work you do sir...cheers.
Amazing as always! 👍 now that’s some recycling ♻️ at its finest! Often have I wondered if swapping out covers could work. 🤔 Well you answered that question with one awesome video!
Thanks for been so kind i love watchin your videos please let me know each time you put up a new one
Nice work so easy to watch you doing your work. You make it sound special and happy with what is going on.
great job as always, interesting the way you changed the bearings and oil caps from both sides of the engine, I think this is the first time I´ve seen you do that
James Condone is the Bob Ross of small engine repair. If you’re old enough, you know what I’m talking about.
Sorry. Condon. Dang it. Well, he put a happy little bell housing over there.
I used to watch him on PBS
Attention to detail(s), as ALWAYS! great Video!
Measure the voltage on the charge coil. If it AC, then you will need a diode in series to charge the battery. If the output is DC, you should be good to go. You might b able to use the diode test on your meter depending on the coil resistance. If you get the same reading whilst reversing leads, you will need a diode. If you get a low reading one way and a high reading the other way, there is probably a diode in the lead. My experience with 2 cylinder Honda engines with the same charge coil is you're gonna need a diode. Great save!
not sure if someone has asked this before, why don't you use a pressure washer and degreaser to save the hand scrubbing? then use the brush afterwards. Might save a bit of elbow grease in the long run. Thank you for posting this.
minute 13:30, stop hammering the sockets.. if you worked in Germany and did that, you'd probably be fired 😅😅
Great video as always
The exacto knife kits have mini chisel shaped blades. They work really well in tight spots.
James, you should make a video on how you make videos. Please show us how you record, edit and post? What software do you use? Over the years you have gotten very good and I have watched them all.
There’s a difference between back fire and after fire. The solenoid valve on the carb main jet is to reduce the possibility of after fire caused by unburnt ( ignition killed) fuel being sucked into a muffler may have red hot rough internal flanges etc that then ignite the raw fuel with a quite violent pop.
The balance shaft like you showed needs to be timed. The crankshaft counter weights balances the piston weight and momentum at top dead center and bottom dead center. When the crankshaft counter weight is at 90 degrees now the weight is too much and causes crankshaft counter weight vibration because the weight and momentum is much different and is out of balance at that point. Here is where the balance shaft does its thing, it counter balances the crankshaft counter weight at the right time 90 degrees with opposing force.
I did time it. Also out of time besides the vibration the crank counter weight will hit the balance shaft weight.
The magnet on the flywheel was giving you competition to insert the bolt and to get you socket and extension back. LOK
It’s all about having parts! Great video!
Awesome troubleshooting James 😊
I wouldn't use a power tool to initiate the threading of a bolt/screw, first by fingers to ensure its not cross threaded then use power tool.
Excellent work James. Thanks for the video.
I can really appreciate how thorough you are with your work. It is nice learning how to do things properly. It is a pleasure learning from you. I think you are a perfectionist. I recently worked on an engine for a push mower where I was unable to remove the blade adapter. I could only open it about 16 inches. I was barely able to clean the gasket surface at all. Even after breaking one of the sump cover bolts and tightening all of them by hand with no torque wrench, it is still sealing perfectly and doesn't leak a drop. I have never owned a torque wrench. What is the benefit of using them? I am looking to purchase one soon when I sell my next machine. I don't understand the benefit of using one, but i would like to understand it. Why is it necessary to use one?
For some things you need it, like on the connecting rod and flywheel. Most you do not. But I use one if the manufacture specified a torque value. Just helps ensure you do not break a bolt and applies even pressure on the part being secured.
Before removing a dirty cover, "I" prefer to remove as much dirt as possible from the area to prevent internal contamination.
They used to make a spray gasket remover I used for gaskets like that when I worked on cars in the 80s. Spray it on, let it set for 15 minutes, and it would soften the gasket right up. I am not sure, but I think it was made by Permatex. Don't get any on an open cut if I remember right.
Another great video James.
An excellent video. Thanks Jim.
Great video! Do I have to wait a week till you finish the build? I’m looking forward to it
Next week starts a video series on a go cart, then will use this engine after that on a generator with a blown engine.
Well, that exhaust valve explains the leaky seals at least.
It would be lovely if you had/used an hydraulic press for those bearings. I mean I myself have hammered many bearings in. But having an hydraulic press brings more satisfaction, I think.
Anyway, keep on keeping on bringing good content.
Hi, James, could you do a little teaching on the Loading in's and out's of home generation, would the old rule of 80% work in most cases?
heya James Is it time for a shop press..... also you should get yourself a deburing tool to run around the bearing and seal openings
Definitely past due.
I love your videos. I learn something new everytime.
Another superb revival James & a plethora of knowledge right along w it , as usual !
Referenced you're MZ360 swap to Responder gen head last week , and pulled off an identical swap .
Currently finishing up a Generac 5500EXL , carb kit & filters due in a few days .
Have a Techimcal question, need a complete cyl head for a Honda clone 18hp single cyl , Gen 2 .
Unit is a DuroMax XP 10,000 EH .
BLOCK #'S - MF192FD
*170913337*
Curious if a cyl head from say a 15 , or 16hp would be the same head ?
Or even a cyl head from a twin cyl emgine of slightly lower ratimgs .
I've found the actual cyl head on Generator GuRu , but its upward of $240 + . Customer wants to try a cheaper route of possible ?
Hope staying cool n dry 🎉🎉😊😊
Great video.. But, would have put the second coil in as it would be a lot of work to do it later.
True, but I have a generator in mind for this engine and the second coil is not needed. Actually I don’t think it needs any coils.
@@jcondon1 that makes sense.
Another enjoyable video, James. BTW I'm down here out of Houston running my B&S 8250/5500 Storm Responder. Going on four days, shutting engine down to refuel about every ten hours and checking the oil. I am using Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30. I need to get your shipping address to send you some parts from an aborted generator repair project.
If you got the cam back in with the valves and springs in tact odds are the push rods are fine.
Nice going, James
Hi James💡 , we are back 🙃🙂
What is the degreaser you use for scrubbing off the caked on oil?
I hear something metal drop on the floor when you began cleaning the valve cover at about 42:45. What was it?
The metal washer that goes between the valve cover and the bolt that holds the cover in place.
James i have an A-IPower that I'm trying to find an air box cover for and would like to know if you have a suggestion as to were to find one as i have had no luck. All your videos have helped me repair quite a few generators now. Thank you for all you content.
I have not worked on one of those yet. If you send the model number maybe I can find a picture of it and let you know
@@jcondon1 SC2000i is the model No.
It has been a great little generator. When I got it it wouldn't run at all. Mostly due to stuck valves due to carbon buildup. The previous owner did not follow service manual recommendations to clean the carbon buildup off the head and valves after so many hours. Took some research between all your videos and the online service manual to figure it all out.
@@leebartholomew4737 it looks to be a clone of a Yamaha EF2000. So maybe a Yamaha cover will fit. Depends on how clone of a clone it is. You may need to buy the whole airbox. Also many other manufacturers use the same Yamaha clone engine. The erayak generator I did a video on has the same setup.
@@jcondon1 I'll review that video and see if they are the same air box. Thanks James. The casing of the generator says it is a Yamaha sc2000.
That is the exact same. I wish I had recorded me taking it apart and doing the repairs. It was very tricky. Adjusting the valves was just as difficult as you mentioned it may be in the review video.
The governor spring will cause surging? I have been fighting a GCV160 revival for a year. I have replaced the entire fuel system, and replaced or cleaned everything in the ignition system, but it still occasionally surges. That is something I never thought of.
The spring that goes on the governor rod is an anti surge spring. Without it, the play where the rod connects to the carb and governor arm can cause surging.
I’m kinda shocked that you got the cam back in with the pushrods and I assume the valve springs still in tact.
The only time the polarity of a DC solenoid is important is if one side is grounded, in which case it would need to match the polarity of the battery.
Is there a reason you prefer the breaker bar over using your smaller or larger impact to break bolts free and remove them?
I working on a push mower with a GCV160 manual choke. Much like the carb on this engine, the choke will not close completely unless I close it by hand.It does not close when the lever is set to full choke. I do not see anything that is damaged or not installed correctly, though something obviously must be. The carb and choke lever are new OEM parts. What are the possible causes?
Wish I could say. This auto choke design almost never seems to work.
As usual an excellent video.
Great video! Enjoyed watching it. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
instead of spending rental money on a storage locker can you get a small shipping container next to your garage or in the back?
The only land I have really that is somewhat useable is the front yard. Lots of rocks and large hills. My area was carved up pretty well by glaciers.
I wonder if a Honda clone crank with a straight shaft would swap out with it allowing another use of the engine?
It probably would
@24:25, You could have tilted the engine to the right so the lifters wouldn't slide out.
Suggestion: if you cant get gaskets off, just burn them off. All they are is paper and it makes it easier to remove those stubborn ones that won’t come off. Your welcome
Another great video ❤
I grew up in my grandfathers small engine repair shop and enjoy your videos a lot, however I do think you get carried away with the torque wrench.
It looks like the genuine Honda casting overall looks smoother with nicer fillets in the casting. But china is so crazy to copy everyone down to the mm.
Valve lash on a GX390 is 0.2mm exhaust, and 0.15mm on intake, +/- 0.02mm
Many years ago I heard that you are supposed to clean and lubricate head bolts before you tighten them down.
When I see people on TH-cam tightening down head bolts, it looks like they are dirty and rusty and won't get accurate torque. This sounds like a real issue. I can understand that If a bolt is Rusty you might get the proper torque on the head of the bolt but the bolt head may not even be touching the cylinder head. Or even if it is touching it may not have enough pressure on the head allowing for blown gaskets.
What would you say about this?