Kohler V-Twin DSAI to MDI Ignition Upgrade
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ค. 2022
- Step by Step!
Today we'll be working on a Craftsman DGS6500 riding lawn mower that has a #Kohler #Courage #SV735 engine.
One of the engine's ignition modules failed, and is no longer producing spark. This is a V-twin, so the engine will still run, but will only run on 1 cylinder.
You may notice a loss of power, and white or black smoke coming from the muffler or exhaust. This is due to unburnt fuel in the cylinder going into the exhaust.
In this video, I explain how these older DSAI ignition modules work, why they failed, and I'll also take you through the process of replacing them with Kohler's upgraded ignition magnetos.
Skip to 7:50 to show the wiring, and skip to 20:31 for the installation of the new ignition modules.
The old ignition system is called DSAI for Digital Spark Advanced Ignition, and we'll be upgrading them to a MDI system, which stands for Magneto Discharge Ignition.
This is a complete upgrade kit, which includes newer, solid state ignition coils that are superior in design to the older ignition system.
Unlike the older Ignition Modules, that required 12v, these newer ignition magnetos do not require 12v power.
Since the new ignition system doesn't require 12v, there are 2 ways you can install this kit.
1. Leaving the original ignition wiring harness attached.
2. Removing the original ignition wiring harness completely.
I show you how to do both ways in this video, as removing the wiring harness completely may require you to connect the Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid to a source of 12v.
Either way, we'll be wiring into the Red and White wire.
Note: some engines have the Red/White wires located near cylinder 1, and others may have them located near cylinder 2. The steps are the same.
Additionally, some engines will have a separate 12v power wire going to the Fuel Shut-Off solenoid, which means you can disregard those steps in the video.
Here are the part numbers for the upgrade kit for various Kohler V-twin engines, it covers both the Courage and Command engine models;
CH/CV740 - 25 707 03-S
CH/CV750 - 25 707 03-S
SV735/740/840 - 32 707 01-S
These kits upgrade the old Ignition Module part numbers;
CH/CV740, SV735, SV740: Previous Modules 24 584 52, 24 584 63 24 584 53, 24 584 64, 24 584 89, (Upgraded Module with Diodes 24 755 172-S)
CH/CV750: 24 584 90 (Upgraded Module with Diodes 24 755 173-S)
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If you'd like, you can skip to 7:50 to show the wiring, and skip to 20:31 for the installation of the new ignition modules.
Hey man I had a friend to send me this same video and I was wondering have u ever rewire one these engine cause I have one just like it and I had to swapped everything over from the 3 wire coils to the 2 wire coils and I swapped it over dsam coils system and I was wondering if u can rewire this type of engine with out safety switches and keep the charging system
You are a godsend. Mine were working just fine until mice chewed up one of the spark plug wires and I was trying to figure out what to do...
I am in the EXACT same predicament and I finally figured out which new ignition module I need bc of this video.
Awesome video. Very concise and professional. Thank you so much. Brother and I are going into repair work and now know about the change over repair to new coil kit install. Again, thank you. Don't know what we would have done without these videos!
By far the best no nonsense small engine repair channel there is.
End. Of. Story.
Thanks for the kind words, and that's for watching!
@@EliminatorPerformance Of course. You deserve the kind words for your time and effort helping people save money and get the satisfaction from doing the repairs themselves.
Thanks it is subscribers with comments like yours that make my sons efforts worth the time it takes to do these videos, i am extremely proud of what he has accomplished and hope i am around when he hits the 100k mark.
Thank you sir-just did this to a mower I bought for my parents . Awesome commentary and clear instructions! I really appreciate it!
I’m glad that my 1998 Craftsman GT3000 with the Command 23 Pro was before the DSAI fiasco. I just retired it running with 23 seasons of service.
Thank you so much for this video! I got my running today with your help!
Thank you. Easiest video I found to fix my Cub Cadet gt1554. After replacing the broken stator and flywheel I wanted to get rid of this junk design. Only puzzling part was of the two flywheels I have one is timed differently where the key is.
As always great . You do nice work . You remind me of a electrical teacher I had in school 50 years ago . Direct and to the point . Thanks
Yep you got that right Nick my son Jake is like a teacher i think he would do just as well in a teaching night course on small engine repair helping out the younger generation to get themselves into a great future business endeavour.
Thanks Nick!
Awesome video - to the point, no fluff love it!
This is perhaps the most clear and BS free video I've seen on youtube. Nice Work!
Check out some of my other videos if you're interested, I try to make them all like that!
When setting gap I use notebook paper, cut 3 sheets and put them together and that will give you a.010 gap. If you want more or less gap add or take away a sheet as desired.
Thank you for that this info will come in handy when mine arrives.
Thank you for making a well-produced and informative video. Your video made this installation "So simple, a child could do it. I can't wait until my ten-year-old son returns from school.
Nice job. I recently had a customer with that same issue and when I told him the cost of the new coils and the labor, he decided to trade the mower in to a dealer. He really got burned at the dealer and bought a new mower. They only gave him an allowence for $300 dollars for his old mower. It was in excellent condition except for the coil issue. Thanks for the video.
Yea this came in for a full service, and with the coils on top it was about $600 with pickup and delivery, labour and parts. Customer was very pleased, as this mower could easily sell for $1700+ seeing as how I sold a 25/48 for $1500 years ago. As I always say, they're not worth as much when they're not in working condition and fully serviced.
Got ripped off at the dealers eh, too bad they should have gotten at least $600
Well you can’t fix stupidO customers
Next time throw a buy price at them before they leave the shop
Great Video 🤩 I picked up a used Craftsman, this exact mower actually .... ran great when I picked it up but after a few Laps around my property things quickly changed. !!!. I cannot wait to do this fix - thank you
See my recent post. You might be surprised when you take off the engine shroud and see what module you actually have.
Very well explained and demonstrated process. Thank You.!!
Another Well Explained Video, Great Job
I wish you had touched on the actual elimination of the DSAI box itself. Other than that, it was a very detailed, very informative video. Thanks.
I think this could be my problem---- mine will not run unless I disconnect the white kill wires to the new coils--- then I only can kill it by pulling plug wires. I'm missing a step here, maybe it's what you're referring to? See my post today if you don't mind.
Great info! Hope that I never have to do this but now I know what to look out for. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
That was one fine fix there brother! Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks for watching!
Great video and an awesome explanation of everything. I am having a related issue. I have a 2004 Dixie Chopper with a Kohler Command CV730-0014 (730s specific to Dixie Chopper). I have had problems with the electric dying and completely shutting off in the middle of a cut. Sometimes I jiggle the wiring harness where it connects the motor to the rest of the harness for the Dixie and it will sometimes start. But typically of late, it does nothing when you turn the key. I suspect it is something grounding it out such as in the white wire kill circuit. But I removed the cover today off the Kohler and I could not find a wire grounding out anywhere. I also do have the more modern solid-state coil packs. I have done a continuity test on the wires with everything seeming to be working. I have two different ignitions I have tried, a new solenoid, and a new fuse holder. The mercury tilt switch is working. I disconnected the seat switch years ago and looped it into itself from the harness. Nevertheless, I have no clue where to go from here. The battery is good and pretty good under a load tester. Any suggestions?
Hey Jake,
I don’t work on many riding mowers but I really enjoy watching your diagnosis, repair and professionalism. I take great interest in the electrical videos mainly because it’s an area that I am not experienced in nor confident in.
Cheers from Fenwick
EZ Ray nice to hear from a neighbour this is the OLD MAN at EP you normally only see my hands in Jakes videos lol.
@@waynestefinashen239 LOL behind every good man is a wise old pair of hands. Jake’s lucky to have you as his mentor.
BTW I rode my bicycle by the shop last month. The garage was open but didn’t see anybody around. Maybe next time.
When it comes to the small engine repair it's the other way around, I taught him most of what he knows. The rest we learn watching TH-cam and trial and error lol thanks for watching!
@@EzRay11 Your welcome anytime hope that was not a pedal bike long ride dude !
@@waynestefinashen239 LOL yes that would be a pedal bike. I often cross the ferry at Pt Robinson, head up the east side to PC and then over to Burnaby before making my way back to Fenwick. If the wind cooperates I may be out that way next week.
As your number one fan i would like to thank you for taking the time that it took you to research all the information you have provided in this video and i especially liked the ending where you used the heat gun to check the temperature of both exhaust pipes to ensure both cylinders were running. That spare coil that is still good has some great $ value to someone that needs one eh?
I read over the original service bulletin and it provided all the info on why the original modules failed. Also, probably going in the scrap bin as I'd hate to sell it to someone just to have it fail. Thanks for watching!
Good day Guys. Boy a different video today. I always thought Kohler was a very good motor.. Yrs ago on farm had Bobcat skid steer with 14 hp Kohler.
It is too bad that such a big machine when goes wrong will cost that much. Too confusing for me if I had one but anyways Jake tha nks for showing. Both have a good week
@@donvoll2580 Thanks for the comment and you have a great week also Don.
It might be expensive but it saves alot of headaches and a running issue as well thanks for sharing this upgrade kit brother 🔧
Yes definitely, these should last much long, and have less to go wrong. Thanks for watching!
Old Man here from EP just letting you now that a shout out video is still in the plans for our sticker swap, thanks for tuning in
@@waynestefinashen239 your very welcome
Great video. Very helpful.
Thanks for the info. Very well done.
Thank You, very well done and helpful video!
Thank you thank you thank you. Like someone else said a mouse chewed one of my main spark plug wires and I couldnt for the life of me get a definitive answer as to which new module I need. And I searched high and low for the original 24-584-89 to no avail but now that I know they had trouble NOT related to mice eating the wires maybe it's for the best 😂
Hot tip: a diode has a forward bias voltage drop that is .7 volts for silicon. In a DC circuit , you can add a diode in series to lower the voltage by
.7 Volts. Three in series for 2.1 Volts. - -|>- + The silver line is negative. I use this only to reduce the brightness of LEDs in a circuit with some resistance. Long wire runs count for automotive. You can use them if your halogen headlights are too bright on a scooter or riding mower. Looks janky though. Lol
very nicely done i still had in my old tractor those dying coils and the symptoms matched exactly what was going on the tops of the coils also showed cracking in the colored resin cap , though the replacement coils i got have 2 spade connectors on them one is smaller than the other and after install i cant get spark ive got them set at .010 gap ive removed the kill from them an still nothing
Thanks. I appreciate the tutorial. Made my repair much easier.
Thanks for the support Conan!
Great video. Missed you last week.
Yes I took the weekend off to celebrate Canada day and also helped a friend move, thanks for watching!
You know a great subscriber when they comment that they missed you and just want to thank you for being such a great subscriber to my sons channel, it is greatly appreciated. Sometimes we get so slammed with work and having a one to two day service and repair policy it is extremely difficult to guarantee he will post a video every week. We are lucky that we normally get some kind of repair that justifies doing a video.
Great video, thanks for shearing
Thanks for watching!
You are a regula subscriber that always posts positive comments which are greatly appreciated.
ALLLLLL PRAISES 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🧐🧐🧐🧐🧐YOU ARE THE ULTIMATE TRUE SCALAR OF THIS ARENA... SERIOUSLY ✅🙏🏾 I SINCERELY HONOR YOU AND YOUR WORK.🧐I USE TO FISH 🐟🐠🐟 BACK IN THE DAY..🙏🏾🧐AND TOOL AND DIE 🧐PUNCH PRESS... SO ON.....PENN FISHING 🎣🎣 REEL...THE ATHORITY THE HALLMARK OF QUALITY..JUST AS YOU🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾🧐🧐🎣🎣🎣🎣🎣🎣NO 🐂🐂🐂🐂🐂🐂🐂 🐂 BULLLLTHANKS GOOD FREND🧐🙏🏾
Thank you brother you are awsome i really enjoy youre videos...
Thanks for watching!
VERY WELL EXPLAINED VIDEO... JUST LIKE ALL THE REST... LOVE YOUR CHANNEL.. KEEP UP THE HARD WORK. CHUBBY BUTCHER
Thanks CB!
Would not mind trying out some of that sausage you made in your latest video Chubby lol!
All i did was plug the white wire part of the connector to the new coil tab, works good...
Great done
I need sawp this module of igination with any igination coil but not belong to kohler such as briggs or honda kindly advise
Good information. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching Shade Tree and hope all your repairs go as easily as this one but hopefully not this expensive.
Another good video Jake. When I did electrical repairs on coaches, I very seldom used butt connectors because the metal butt inside of the plastic is split. We used the metal butt splice as the seam was soldered. You had the option of soldering it if you wanted. Then the shrink tube we used had the glue inside to make it water tight when heated and shrunk down. Also if you were trouble shooting the wire you could ‘probe’ the connection, then just use a heat gun again and it would re-seal. I know these things cost more, but if it meant the difference between a ‘coach down’ service it was worth it. I know you have a different application, but you also have a lot of vibration. Sorry for the long explanation, just another option. Have a good week. Rick
Yes maybe I should look into the heat shrink with glue and also the metal butt splice. I always like constructive criticism and also tips and tricks, I learn new things every day. Thanks for watching!
Do you mind if I say the company names of the products?
@@motorcoachtech7615 I don't mind at all!
Shrink tube came from Kenco Industries in Burlington On. (We had a local mobile dealer come around with all kinds of shop/garage supplies ). The butt splices came from Techspan(ta) from a local jobber. Hope this helps. Rick
@@motorcoachtech7615 Thanks for the information it is great appreciated.
Good job buddy 👏
Thanks Robert!
Really good explanation!! Just hope I'm esute enough to accomplish this...
Take your time, and follow the steps in this video. Good luck!
Okay, so I am confused. I'm trying to find the correct replacement for my sv735 o16
Kohler. The original part number in my parts manual is 24-584-36-S. I bought part number 32-707-01-S. I called the place I got the replacement from just to make sure I got the correct one and they told me that I needed the original part number(25-584-36-S) which they have in stock. I noticed that my original harness has been chewed by mice. I patched the wires that were chewed but I still have the same issue of running on one cylinder. Do I get the original part number or do I get the replacement (if that's the correct one). I'm not sure what to do????
@@harmonysprogress if they're trying to sell you the old number, it means they have "new old stock" that they're trying to get rid of. You'll end up running into the same issue, as the DSAI system will eventually fail. You're better off asking them for the solid state coil replacement kit, as shown on the chart. If you're not sure what number to get, just pause when I have the charts displayed, you'll see all the numbers, there's only 2 kits available to choose from.
@@EliminatorPerformance
Thank you!!!! I ordered the right one!!! It's the 32-707-01-S. Thank you!! I'm concerned, though, because mice had chewed some of the wires so I hope I have enough. I'm going to have your video with me going step by step!! Thank you so much for responding!!!!!
Paul
@@harmonysprogress no worries, and if you fine some chewed wire they can always be fixed. I'd rather butt connect a section of new wire in, than electrical tape something that's been chewed. Good luck!
great tutorial , you explain things very well and nice camera work .
just one criticism that you can work on , sometimes you speak in a halting manner like a robot . other times you speak fine . keep the videos coming
😃
Thank you!
By the way this is the very first time i have seen this type of ignition coil. It would be interesting if any of your other subscribers would comment on if they have seen these.
Very few of the courage and command engines got them. Looks like only certain models like SV 735 740 840 and a couple CV or CH command engines
Wayne and Jake my neighbor had a old Sears Craftsman 5000 series mower. It would run good for a bit then spit and sputter just as you said. That thing gave me fits, it had the V-twin Command on it. I had never heard of spark advance on a mower but eventually researched and found this motor had it.
This was about 3 years ago and the coils were obsolete. I ended up getting 2 coils for that motor, rewired the coils and omitted the harness.
It’s still running properly today.
Thanks for the video Jake, good job. 👍🏼
I have a Kohler 7000 24hp 725 Pro Performance Filtration. Problem: Chock was not closing I adjusted that. It worked for a bit. Now it’s 27° out it won’t start. When I shut it down the test drive after the choke adjustment. The speed stayed the same in both slow speed & high speed. What am I missing?
I have a Kohler on a bad boy that has no spark on either coil checked all relays safeties Etc put the multimeter on the coils and got almost the exact same readings from spark plug boot to the kill was 18.8...and the boot to the frame was 8.8...almost identical, does those numbers sound about right, thanks man
Thats funny I have one of the first Kohler OHV twins from 1995 in a Toro and runs like new in 2023. Never had an issue with what this video is talking about. I'm guessing around 2000 Kohler change that part to a cheaper one and issues began.
Hi,
Good video and well explained. I have a Husqvarna Ride on lawn mower with a Kohler v-twin DSAI engine, it starts well but sometimes it doesn't stop turning off. any help I will appreciate it.
Regards
GOOD DAY!, quick question, are you a supporter of the synthetic 4 stoke oils from Amsoil or Briggs, they claim there the best oils for air cooling engines?, I have a 18hp Kohler in my mini skid steer, not must fresh air available so im looking for the best options, thanks for your time
What if i did this and it won’t start unless the white wire is not hooked up? Obviously i can’t shut it off without the white wire. Is my white wire grounding/shorting somewhere?
is this true also for the 7000 series with the KT725 engine -been having some similar issues -thanks!
Do those engines still have issues with module (coil) bolts breaking off ?
Great video. I have 2 mowers with the 26hp Kohler Courage V Twin. The both run well with the old ignition system. Should I just keep running the old ignition system until it fails or should I replace them?
I'd just keep running them until they start misfiring/sparking. my kohler 26hp had over 820 hours on it before the right module starting misfiring/losing spark, who knows, yours may not even go bad
Just an FYI, those spark testers aren’t LED. No LED ever made could handle the 1000’s of volts a coil can produce. They actually have a neon bulb…
Hello and thank you for this video. I have a Kohler V-Twin SV 730 engine and it's very similar to this. I went through all of the steps on this and install went well. However, here is my problem: I cannot get mower to run, UNLESS I disconnect the white kill wires to the coils. Of course the only way I can shut it off after is by pulling the plug wires (certainly not preferred). Is there a step I'm missing here or is my ignition not compatible? It seems I have a grounding issue--- thanks
Yes so it sounds like you have a safety switch issue. Either brake switch or seat switch.
Here is some info if it helps…. Check continuity to ground or battery - on the white wire going back to your mower harness. If it grounds even with the ignition turned on then a safety is tripped somewhere. If the white wire isn’t grounding with ignition on then did you buy the Kohler kit that comes with the white wire harness and connectors? If not then that may be your issue. I am pretty certain that there has to be diodes between the coils in the kill wires to prevent them from sharing/passing spark. But then again I only ran into this on a Briggs engine when the diodes went bad and it wouldn’t run right and would backfire badly through the intake. Each coil was making both cylinders spark at the same time with the bad diodes. A test for if diodes are needed is to start it with the white wire hooked up to only one coil. If it runs normal smoothly and you turn ignition off, only the one cylinder with the white wire hooked up to the coil, should die off. Swap the white wire to the other coil only and it should do the same. If you hook both wires up and it doesn’t run or run right, you need diode‘s. Kohler may have built diodes into the coils in the kit and aftermarket coils don’t have them built in or that white wire and connectors comes with has diodes in it. I’m ordering some aftermarket coils from Amazon for a fraction of the cost and am about to find out myself. Might have to add diodes to them if this is the case.
Replaced the coils today. The video was awesome in helping us do so. It runs great but the battery light comes on when the PTO is engaged. Any suggestions?
PTO clutch depends on steady amps from a good battery, you might have to replace your battery
Would it have anything to do with the coil air gap?
Do you ever use a temp gauge to see which cly is dead ???
Would the Courage part work on a ELS725 26 hp, or am I looking at the wrong number? Thanks
I have no idea, run your engine model number into Google and type parts diagram after. These are for the SV series, so I don't want to say yes or no because I'm not sure.
Hmm...I picked up a freebie today, 02 or 03 Cub Cadet with the 27 horse Kohler and noticed one of the coil to spark plug wire is chewed up by mice. Those coils have 2 wire connections. Would that be MDI? The new coil shown in your vid has 1 wire connection? Btw...great video and very professional!
good morning, i have the Kohler command 27HP and i need to switch to MDI coils, your video shows courage, how much difference is there? i looked up 32 707-03 and could not find it, any suggestions? also my fuel solenoid is hooked to the harness as it is in your video, its not directly connected to its own power source, that being said in your video the harness on my tractor is the same as yours but the main connection area is opposite of your video.
From what I can tell, they basically just flip sides. It's all very similar. You need red power to the fuel solenoid and white ground to the new coil kill wire. Follow the steps in the video and just mirror it to the other side, if that makes sense.
@@EliminatorPerformance ok, I just looked further into the wires, looks like the black is grounded to the intake, and I also see that the fuel Cilla Noyd is directly connected, so 2 red wires, one to harness, and the other to the fuel solenoid
Nice tutorial. What hand Tachometer did you use and do you like it? Black tie wraps 😊
Stens 751-180 wireless tachometer, works great. Might be a little expensive for people who don't use it all the time, but we use it almost daily.
Looks like the 751-180 has an analog type numbers, nothing at all like the blue digital one in video
@@theresahoffman8408my bad, that's a temperature gauge! Just making sure it had heat on the muffler, showing that cylinder was firing.
Thanks for the video! I think I have the SAM or DSAM type. Someone told me I had to buy this kit and a different flywheel because of the location of the magnet or something similar.....do you know if this is true? Thanks in advance.
No, you just need the coils. Pause where I show the chart and pick which one you need for your engine
@EliminatorPerformance thank you. From what I read since I sent you the message, my Kohler Command Pro ch25s has the DSAM, with 4 different colored wires. Like you said, and additionally verified for me....I just need the coil kit, no flywheel. That's great news for me! I definitely didn't want to have to replace the flywheel too. Already ordered the coil kit. Thanks again.
What gauge wiring is being used?
That ignition indicator isn't LED, it is a fluorescent bulb FYI
I have a 26 hp kohler courage craftsman mower but the coils only have two wires not three like the one shown at 2 minutes 33 seconds, what conversion kit will work for it?
the kohler 24 584 201s is the ignition coil for the SV725 engine
@@waynestefinashen239 I found it, I couldn't verify which one, but now I'm confident I have the right coils,... Thank you
Hi like to know if I got coils with two blades on it will it work the same as what you put in with one blade thanks please let me know got the same type of tractor sears
You need the ignition coils that are designed for your model of kohler engine the CH series have 2 tabs the SV only one
my 735 always ran smoothly until i developed a misfire, threw a timing light on it to see if spark was dropping out and it was on right cylinder, bought the conversion kit and installed it and one thing i noticed right away, it starts as though the engine has loose motor mount bolts, you know like a jolt, idles smooth no back firing but as you increase the throttle it gets those little exhaust poots/pops and it never did it with the old coils, always smooth with no funny business. could new coils just have too much timing built into them?
It's possible they increased the ignition timing using offset on the coil post design, my advice would be to try premium fuel and if the pops go away you know it's timing. If not, check your coil gap to make sure it's properly set. Other than that, new (proper) spark plugs just to be sure.
Can you use this same part for the courage pro (sv830)?
I believe the kits are different for the courage, and the command engines. Check the chart I post during the video to see if your engine is listed, and which kit to use.
Ok so I installed the new coils exactly like the video. It starts but is still running on only 1 cylinder. I'm not very good with small or big motors. I'm wondering if you have any other suggestions?? I have no meters or gadgets to check anything..
Thank you,
Paul
I would start by unplugging the kill wire on the cylinder that isn't working. You may have a short to ground somewhere that is grounding the coil, thus preventing spark. If the coil still doesn't produce spark with the kill wire (ground wire) removed, I would swap the spark plugs to make sure it isn't a faulty plug. If the plugs are ruled out, replace the coil.
Oh I forgot to say they are new spark plugs as well..
Ok I got spark to both cylinders..
Update on my Kohler. Finally quit raining here so I took my tractor out for some work. Ran great!!! Thank you so much for your video!!!!!
Hey boss how is your truck doing did the tsb fix it long term. Just wondering
It's great, took it to the Dyno recently to see what it put down, was planning on making a video by the end of the month. Also doing a consumption test to see if it's losing any oil (just go in every 1000kms and they measure the oil on the dipstick) as I was smelling a bit of oil and did notice the mark was a bit low.
Hey how did the oil consumption test work out
@@jms-er1kq still going through it, I work from the garage at home and don't drive much. Takes a while for me to get 5000kms lol it goes in next week for them to check again. I smelled burnt oil on the highway after passing someone so I know it's burning a bit
My recently acquired Cub Cadet GTX1054 2010 year, 27hp SV740 twin. has the old 4 wire coils. It runs but the magnet-to-coil gap is about 3/16' of an inch. no clearance adjustment slot on the coil body. where do I go with this ?, short of replacing at about $300, shipped overseas to BERMUDA. Thanks, I am a regular viewer !
I believe the old ignition modules don't have an armature air gap spec, I think they just bolt right up. If there's no slot on the ignition module to adjust, then they don't adjust.
@@EliminatorPerformance THANK YOU ! your comment confirms my finding. I now feel more relieved to suss out other irregularities. Great Show !!
Maurice, I have the same engine you do! The part number on my coils is identical to the ones in the video. The 'Parts Bulletin' that is shown @6:18 shows our engine listed at the bottom and the new replacement 'MDI Conversion kit' is the same one that he is using (32 707 01-S). I have the Kohler Courage SV740 twin and when I engage the PTO/Mower Blades the engine bogs down. I ordered the new MDI kit off of Amazon for $118 (the same shown in his video). Good luck with your engine!
Ok the coils I got have two prongs
The main red and white wire that go under the back of the engine where actually do those go? And also iv got a purple wire in the same area any idea what that goes to?
⭐⭐⭐
Thanks for watching!
Pete the Old Man here at EP and i thought this one would get 5 stars lol. Thanks for commenting and being a great subscriber.
Omg bruh!! Good vid but y the pause between every single word!
Have the exact same tractor with the same engine that I've had since new with the exact same problem of running on one cylinder after the PTO as been engaged for awhile. Ordered the kit, then took off the cover, and was shocked to see that it actually had the DSAM ignition versus the DSAI. Luckily, the same kit works, and this was the closest instruction video that I found: th-cam.com/video/M_JKfzC3Iww/w-d-xo.html. Was very similar to what I had to do.
I have noticed that Kohler is the best company when it come to plumbing supplies but Kohler does NOT make great small engines. They should just stick to plumbing. 🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤔
Lol yea, I only recommend Kawasaki engines now!
I thought that you would say that Honda engines were the best. 🥴🥴🥴
@@patrickpoulard24 yes they are, but you can't get them for riding mowers so I recommend Kawasaki. Hondas are great and I definitely recommend them for push or self propelled mowers.
@@EliminatorPerformance Oh wow, I didn't realize that Honda didn't make engines for riding mowers. I wonder why?🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🤷🏿♂️🥴
@@patrickpoulard24 I believe they only make them for their own mowers now, which I also believe are no longer sold in north America.
PLEASE un torque the mag screws gently...or kohler bolts snap!!! Then your facing helicoil or something to re-mount the new coil. YOU CAN RUIN YOUR ENTIRE ENGINE...BY SNAPPING THE BOLT...i DID WHAT ORDEAL TO DRILL HELICOIL TAPP. PLEASE ON ALL KOHLER BOLTS "BEFORE YOU TURN ANY!!!"""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""""
pb blaster....and dont run the flywheel into the loose mag....and snap the mounting bracket off...again new cylinder # engine
thats alot of money for a wire, connectors and 2 coils to repair a system that was poorly designed from the get go