Forgot the #1 most important one: Plan the house well so that once building starts, building follows the plan and you don't change your mind on anything. Builders needing to REbuild sections 2 or 3 times because you change your mind about what you want will run up your costs faster than anything else.
1) Lot location and buildability (the closer to civilization, the cheaper) 2) Build closer to the road access, well, etc. rather than in the back of the lot 3) Minimize expensive design features that aren't necessary or that can be mimicked cheaper 4) Mix up siding, put expensive siding on the front only, or where ever you want it, not just everywhere 5) Build up or down to add square footage cheaper than expanding outward 6) Think about cheaper materials that have the same look as more expensive materials 7) Appliances
Thank you for your willingness to share. Very helpful and appreciated. 1. Lot location - far out and not easily accessible is more costly 2. Placement of building on lot -Excavation, utility, and driveway costs 3. Use smart designs to accomplish a similar look - ex. faux beam vs. wood beam 4. Identify large expenses during the design phase and decide whether it is worth it (like minimize steep pitch roof); siding (try variations on house) 5. Build up not out 6. Alternative finishes and materials - like slate tile vs porcelain or ceramic; wood floor vs luxury vinyl 7. Appliances - look for some that look as nice as Viking and Subzero but not as expenses.
Thank you for This video. What I missed is the design of the main build. A 2 story rectangular building with standard size windows and doors, simple roof line, is so much cheaper to build. Create curb appeal with landscaping.
Luckily we have a 31 acre property we bought debt free. It's perfect for building a house. I'm going to try and find a location where we could have a walk out basement. The area is overgrown with Birch trees so it's work to navigate it. Bringing in a brush cutter in the Spring.
Something I've learned during my build process: Steeper roof = not only more sheathing/surface material, but also roofers (and solar panel installers if going that route) will charge more for anything after 8:12 because working on that steepness requires more safety equipment, more risk to work on. Even in climate zones 6+ most places Code only requires 4:12 minimum.
I used to own a German restaurant and also was the cook. I do not understand that some cooks "need" a stove that costs as much as a car. It's just stupid und more about the ego than about cooking. Who ever has a problem today cooking on average stoves doesn't know how to cook. The other problem also is that slide in stoves always have a gap between the stove and the counter. If you move that stove after a year you will be disgusted with all the crap that made it's way down there. It attracts all kind of critters. A sealed in cooktop is much more sanitary.
Great info, thanks. A builder we consulted quoted $60k for a basement vs an oversized 3-car garage with a bonus room above. Going that route would save nearly $30k.
Awesome suggestions and video. Thank you. While I do not live in colorado, All of your suggestions are valuable, & your customers are lucky to have such a great builder. Peace.
i was going to sell the house i live in which happens to be the house i grew up in, but i since i procrastinated on the property i want i think i might keep the property i have and build a new home there
Bought a 0.7 acre lot overlooking Manitou Springs a few months ago. Only available utilities are electric and phone, so must install a well and septic. I've dealt with propane deliveries, and so my plan is to go all electric. I can make my own electricity much easier than I can make my own propane. The foundation will be a major expense. The land is decomposed granite with a protruding granite ridge on one side, and a smallish slab on the other. I'd love at least a partial basement, with a crawlspace where it's impractical to dig. My thought is to save the "soil" (more like road base than dirt) to raise the land a bit around the foundation. If I hit granite, an extra 6 inches of depth could get insanely expensive. I've been sketching out plans for a minimal footprint, but with a second story tucked under the roof, with a few dormers. I have a library now, and want to feature it in the new home. My thought is a "tower of books": A round, 3-story tower with a wrap-around stair, set on a back corner of the home--so that's looking pricey. I also want a steep roof pitch that flairs out at the eaves--another pricey option. With the tower, the roof pitch, and other features, the house is starting to resemble a tiny fantasy palace--probably expensive. Externally, stone would be cool (and keeping the the tiny fantasy palace look), but I don't want to pay for it. Perhaps stucco with stone or brick accents--at the foundation, the corners, around openings, etc. IMO the two most important things I can do to control cost is to minimize overall footprint, and to keep my desire for a basement in check.
Working out how to use that granitic sand in a render and making it look like stone would be pretty cool. When there's bits of the same stone sticking out of the ground nearby you could make a very convincing imitation of a stone-built castle. Just make sure your external walls are thick enough to complete the illusion around the doors and windows - but you'll want thick external walls for insulation anyway.
@@tealkerberus748 Your comment tickled a brain cell: Exposed Aggregate Concrete. Using some of the piles and piles of granitic gravel I'll have, make concrete with it. Tool the surface as normal. Before it sets up spray the surface with a sugar solution (I've heard Coka Cola works wonders). The sugar greatly slows the hydration (hardening) of the cement. Then wash down the surface of the concrete. The cement paste washes out from between the stone particles at the surface, exposing them. One possible glitch is that the "gravel" is mostly quarts and feldspar crystals, angular and sharp. I should get some samples, and bags of cement, then experiment. Fun bit if trivia, but the neighborhood is known for smokey quartz, amazonite, and champagne topaz.
After watching this, I'm grateful I had the idea to buy land in advance before we apply for a construction loan. We are also paying out of pocket to clear the land.
Where I'm living now, when we were building it was going to cost as much to connect to electricity as it was to build the house - so we didn't. I haven't had an electricity bill in fifteen years and I'd never go back to being tied to the grid! If you put in a shed first and put your solar panels on the shed roof, you've got power on site for building, which saves you fooling around with a genni for your electricity every time you want to use a power tool in your build.
A thousand questions, but this is an amazing start. We’re up in Denver area. Do you recommend getting a builder involved when buying the lot? We think we have a realistic budget and timeline but we may need a builder to snap us in reality and out of fantasy land.
18:07 I believe rolling appliance allowance into a building contract is a bad idea. Taking $20,000 worth of appliances and rolling it into a mortgage means you end up paying for that appliance long after you replace it. I believe carving out the appliance allowance, dropping the price of the construction is the smarter financial move. I’m suspicious that a builder gets a kickback from any appliance store. They steer customer to. I’d like to see true transparency, like people are currently demanding it in healthcare and other industries.
I wish you built in my area! I am trying to figure out how to save on some things for my non negotiable like a 2 car finished garage and a seperate shower and stand alone tub in primary bathroom and a split floor plan with double sinks in both bathrooms and a 6 foot privacy fence over a basement. But the rest is more functional. This is helpful to know because I could care less about intricate exteriors
So i already own the property. It has a mild slope to it AND the more level area is in the back of the property. Which would be the most affordable. Building up the foundation as needed due to the slope or going further back with the driveway and utilities?
Can someone please tell me what a Viking or a SubZero does that a good LG doesn't do? They don't last any longer, and the don't heat or cool my food any differently, so why are they so ridiculously expensive?
Like anything else, there is good, better, best. Then there are status symbols, products that cost twice as much for a 10% improvement. Short answer, they arent worth it.
Sub zero refrigerators can be serviced a lot more easily due to the location of the mechanicals and availability of parts. I would never buy a refrigerator from an electronics company personally, as they are all built with planned obsolescence in mind. I know people who have had their subzero for 20+ years with only 1 or 2 service calls. You’re honestly better off buying a $400 white fridge than a $1-2k stainless because both will need replacing in usually 3-7 years. If you’re gonna cheap out, just go cheap. The middle of the appliance market is where all the money is made selling “feature” rich appliances with appealing finishes to people who can’t afford professional quality. Durable appliances that are worth fixing actually cost a lot of money up front.
A Sub Zero will last for 20+ years. It will probably need a new ice maker at some point and needs to have the evaporator cleaned yearly. And LG will have a trendy digital panel on the front the will be useless after a few years when the processor and software become outdated. I'm on the third house that has Sub Zero refrigeration, Wolf cooking and Miele dishwashers + clothes washer & dryer. These are quality appliances but would NOT put that into a house that is under a million dollars. LG is great for the $350,00 starter home to where the neighbors can come over and be impressed with the refrigerator's internet connectivity. The same would go for "that" stainless steel dishwasher with a stainless steel front panel but a plastic tub interior. My parents had a Sub Zero put in back in the early 1960's and it lasted until the house was torn down in the late 1990's to be replaced by a new house.
@@kennixox262 Seems like there are two (at least) trains of thought here. Yours, buy the absolute best at 3x the cost of high end box store stuff because they last 20+ years with minimal maintenance. Unfortunately you have bought three now? Have those three purchases served you for 60 years? (not likely ). Someone could buy the LG you referenced (I personally wouldn't for the reasons you explained) or buy Kitchen Aid, Bosch etc and replace them every 7 years and still come out ahead money wise. To each their own but there isn't a financial scenario where those companies make sense or can justify their prices. It's literally status and FU money
So we have all LG appliances. They are now 14 years old and have never needed service. I will be building our retirement home next year and will probably go with LG again. As someone else said, unless your a millionaire you don’t need a Sub Zero.
I've been off grid for fifteen years. We use the genni a bit in winter, but our total annual cost is chickenfeed compared to what people pay for electricity in town. Look at your local climate, because persistent heavy overcast is really bad for photovoltaics. If you get a lot of that you'll want to supplement with wind or even microhydro if your landform permits. And plan your house to reduce your energy demands first - insulation is a lot cheaper than solar panels! LED lights, a smaller fridge, a lifestyle that doesn't revolve around a huge television - these things all add up.
What would you consider less expensive? 1. House with basement 8 ft ceiling insulate pad and walls OR 2.House on stem wall insulated slab and to regain storage and living space adding attic trusses. Ty for any input.
Building out = more roof, excavation, foundation for each swore foot added. Building up uses the same excavation, footing, foundation, roof and only adds the costs of more walls/ floor!
You don’t have more roof and you’ve got a floor. Your house is plumbed on first floor so you’re not paying for extended plumbing and electrical is closer. Cheaper.
If you see it on HGTV don't do it. If you see the Chip & Joanna freak show, don't do it. Spend money behind the walls on quality systems, insulation, better windows and doors, superior HVAC, all the better. People, especially women, get too emotional about the finishes which tend to come into and quickly go out of style.
Yeah, I used to work in a pharmacy where people would see a new wonder drug advertised on TV and want a price before asking their doctor about it. After the sticker shock wore off I would tell them "if you see it on TV you can't afford it".
Forgot the #1 most important one: Plan the house well so that once building starts, building follows the plan and you don't change your mind on anything. Builders needing to REbuild sections 2 or 3 times because you change your mind about what you want will run up your costs faster than anything else.
1) Lot location and buildability (the closer to civilization, the cheaper)
2) Build closer to the road access, well, etc. rather than in the back of the lot
3) Minimize expensive design features that aren't necessary or that can be mimicked cheaper
4) Mix up siding, put expensive siding on the front only, or where ever you want it, not just everywhere
5) Build up or down to add square footage cheaper than expanding outward
6) Think about cheaper materials that have the same look as more expensive materials
7) Appliances
Recap at 17 minute mark
Thank you for your willingness to share. Very helpful and appreciated.
1. Lot location - far out and not easily accessible is more costly
2. Placement of building on lot -Excavation, utility, and driveway costs
3. Use smart designs to accomplish a similar look - ex. faux beam vs. wood beam
4. Identify large expenses during the design phase and decide whether it is worth it (like minimize steep pitch roof); siding (try variations on house)
5. Build up not out
6. Alternative finishes and materials - like slate tile vs porcelain or ceramic; wood floor vs luxury vinyl
7. Appliances - look for some that look as nice as Viking and Subzero but not as expenses.
This dude deserves a like and subscribe…I’m telling you he’s not making any friends by giving you this information…😂
Thank you for
This video.
What I missed is the design of the main build. A 2 story rectangular building with standard size windows and doors, simple roof line, is so much cheaper to build. Create curb appeal with landscaping.
Luckily we have a 31 acre property we bought debt free. It's perfect for building a house. I'm going to try and find a location where we could have a walk out basement. The area is overgrown with Birch trees so it's work to navigate it. Bringing in a brush cutter in the Spring.
Something I've learned during my build process: Steeper roof = not only more sheathing/surface material, but also roofers (and solar panel installers if going that route) will charge more for anything after 8:12 because working on that steepness requires more safety equipment, more risk to work on. Even in climate zones 6+ most places Code only requires 4:12 minimum.
I used to own a German restaurant and also was the cook.
I do not understand that some cooks "need" a stove that costs as much as a car.
It's just stupid und more about the ego than about cooking.
Who ever has a problem today cooking on average stoves doesn't know how to cook.
The other problem also is that slide in stoves always have a gap between the stove and the counter. If you move that stove after a year you will be disgusted with all the crap that made it's way down there. It attracts all kind of critters.
A sealed in cooktop is much more sanitary.
I do agree with this but I must say I have a Fisher & Paykel 36" and I LOVE it. And it's going to help sell the house for sure.
Great info, thanks. A builder we consulted quoted $60k for a basement vs an oversized 3-car garage with a bonus room above. Going that route would save nearly $30k.
60k?! That's insane. It used to be around 20-30k. Recently. Must be location.
Awesome suggestions and video. Thank you.
While I do not live in colorado, All of your suggestions are valuable, & your customers are lucky to have such a great builder. Peace.
i was going to sell the house i live in which happens to be the house i grew up in, but i since i procrastinated on the property i want i think i might keep the property i have and build a new home there
Bought a 0.7 acre lot overlooking Manitou Springs a few months ago. Only available utilities are electric and phone, so must install a well and septic. I've dealt with propane deliveries, and so my plan is to go all electric. I can make my own electricity much easier than I can make my own propane.
The foundation will be a major expense. The land is decomposed granite with a protruding granite ridge on one side, and a smallish slab on the other. I'd love at least a partial basement, with a crawlspace where it's impractical to dig. My thought is to save the "soil" (more like road base than dirt) to raise the land a bit around the foundation. If I hit granite, an extra 6 inches of depth could get insanely expensive.
I've been sketching out plans for a minimal footprint, but with a second story tucked under the roof, with a few dormers. I have a library now, and want to feature it in the new home. My thought is a "tower of books": A round, 3-story tower with a wrap-around stair, set on a back corner of the home--so that's looking pricey. I also want a steep roof pitch that flairs out at the eaves--another pricey option. With the tower, the roof pitch, and other features, the house is starting to resemble a tiny fantasy palace--probably expensive.
Externally, stone would be cool (and keeping the the tiny fantasy palace look), but I don't want to pay for it. Perhaps stucco with stone or brick accents--at the foundation, the corners, around openings, etc.
IMO the two most important things I can do to control cost is to minimize overall footprint, and to keep my desire for a basement in check.
Working out how to use that granitic sand in a render and making it look like stone would be pretty cool. When there's bits of the same stone sticking out of the ground nearby you could make a very convincing imitation of a stone-built castle. Just make sure your external walls are thick enough to complete the illusion around the doors and windows - but you'll want thick external walls for insulation anyway.
@@tealkerberus748 Your comment tickled a brain cell: Exposed Aggregate Concrete.
Using some of the piles and piles of granitic gravel I'll have, make concrete with it. Tool the surface as normal. Before it sets up spray the surface with a sugar solution (I've heard Coka Cola works wonders). The sugar greatly slows the hydration (hardening) of the cement. Then wash down the surface of the concrete. The cement paste washes out from between the stone particles at the surface, exposing them.
One possible glitch is that the "gravel" is mostly quarts and feldspar crystals, angular and sharp. I should get some samples, and bags of cement, then experiment.
Fun bit if trivia, but the neighborhood is known for smokey quartz, amazonite, and champagne topaz.
After watching this, I'm grateful I had the idea to buy land in advance before we apply for a construction loan. We are also paying out of pocket to clear the land.
Where I'm living now, when we were building it was going to cost as much to connect to electricity as it was to build the house - so we didn't. I haven't had an electricity bill in fifteen years and I'd never go back to being tied to the grid!
If you put in a shed first and put your solar panels on the shed roof, you've got power on site for building, which saves you fooling around with a genni for your electricity every time you want to use a power tool in your build.
A thousand questions, but this is an amazing start. We’re up in Denver area. Do you recommend getting a builder involved when buying the lot? We think we have a realistic budget and timeline but we may need a builder to snap us in reality and out of fantasy land.
18:07 I believe rolling appliance allowance into a building contract is a bad idea. Taking $20,000 worth of appliances and rolling it into a mortgage means you end up paying for that appliance long after you replace it. I believe carving out the appliance allowance, dropping the price of the construction is the smarter financial move. I’m suspicious that a builder gets a kickback from any appliance store. They steer customer to. I’d like to see true transparency, like people are currently demanding it in healthcare and other industries.
Very informative for everyone!
I wish you built in my area! I am trying to figure out how to save on some things for my non negotiable like a 2 car finished garage and a seperate shower and stand alone tub in primary bathroom and a split floor plan with double sinks in both bathrooms and a 6 foot privacy fence over a basement. But the rest is more functional. This is helpful to know because I could care less about intricate exteriors
So i already own the property. It has a mild slope to it AND the more level area is in the back of the property.
Which would be the most affordable. Building up the foundation as needed due to the slope or going further back with the driveway and utilities?
A 1300sqft one-story would still be cheaper on average than a 1700sqft two-story, right (on slab)?
Can someone please tell me what a Viking or a SubZero does that a good LG doesn't do? They don't last any longer, and the don't heat or cool my food any differently, so why are they so ridiculously expensive?
Like anything else, there is good, better, best. Then there are status symbols, products that cost twice as much for a 10% improvement. Short answer, they arent worth it.
Sub zero refrigerators can be serviced a lot more easily due to the location of the mechanicals and availability of parts. I would never buy a refrigerator from an electronics company personally, as they are all built with planned obsolescence in mind. I know people who have had their subzero for 20+ years with only 1 or 2 service calls. You’re honestly better off buying a $400 white fridge than a $1-2k stainless because both will need replacing in usually 3-7 years. If you’re gonna cheap out, just go cheap. The middle of the appliance market is where all the money is made selling “feature” rich appliances with appealing finishes to people who can’t afford professional quality. Durable appliances that are worth fixing actually cost a lot of money up front.
A Sub Zero will last for 20+ years. It will probably need a new ice maker at some point and needs to have the evaporator cleaned yearly. And LG will have a trendy digital panel on the front the will be useless after a few years when the processor and software become outdated. I'm on the third house that has Sub Zero refrigeration, Wolf cooking and Miele dishwashers + clothes washer & dryer. These are quality appliances but would NOT put that into a house that is under a million dollars. LG is great for the $350,00 starter home to where the neighbors can come over and be impressed with the refrigerator's internet connectivity. The same would go for "that" stainless steel dishwasher with a stainless steel front panel but a plastic tub interior. My parents had a Sub Zero put in back in the early 1960's and it lasted until the house was torn down in the late 1990's to be replaced by a new house.
@@kennixox262 Seems like there are two (at least) trains of thought here. Yours, buy the absolute best at 3x the cost of high end box store stuff because they last 20+ years with minimal maintenance. Unfortunately you have bought three now? Have those three purchases served you for 60 years? (not likely ). Someone could buy the LG you referenced (I personally wouldn't for the reasons you explained) or buy Kitchen Aid, Bosch etc and replace them every 7 years and still come out ahead money wise. To each their own but there isn't a financial scenario where those companies make sense or can justify their prices. It's literally status and FU money
So we have all LG appliances. They are now 14 years old and have never needed service. I will be building our retirement home next year and will probably go with LG again. As someone else said, unless your a millionaire you don’t need a Sub Zero.
Can you use generators and solar panels?
I've been off grid for fifteen years. We use the genni a bit in winter, but our total annual cost is chickenfeed compared to what people pay for electricity in town.
Look at your local climate, because persistent heavy overcast is really bad for photovoltaics. If you get a lot of that you'll want to supplement with wind or even microhydro if your landform permits. And plan your house to reduce your energy demands first - insulation is a lot cheaper than solar panels! LED lights, a smaller fridge, a lifestyle that doesn't revolve around a huge television - these things all add up.
Excellent, Thank you
So a custom home nationwide can go from $100 sq ft to $500?
Or more
We’re looking to build just outside Boulder, CO and builder was estimating $400-$700 sq ft (not including their $45k in architectural fees)
Do you recommend any custom builders near Fort Worth Texas?
What would you consider less expensive?
1. House with basement 8 ft ceiling insulate pad and walls
OR
2.House on stem wall insulated slab and to regain storage and living space adding attic trusses.
Ty for any input.
I wish you could show example of what you are talking about would help some of us because we don’t know what you are referring to
Electric Induction or Gas top?
Gas
@@TexasConnor can i ask why?
@@santoshpal8835 it’s just more fun to cook on a gas stovetop. Cooking with an old cast iron over flame, just love it.
When powers fails- you can cook all those meats thawing in your freezer.
Why is it more expensive to build out thn build up?
Building out = more roof, excavation, foundation for each swore foot added. Building up uses the same excavation, footing, foundation, roof and only adds the costs of more walls/ floor!
You don’t have more roof and you’ve got a floor. Your house is plumbed on first floor so you’re not paying for extended plumbing and electrical is closer. Cheaper.
Privacy, peace and quiet costs, so you get what you pay for.
If you see it on HGTV don't do it. If you see the Chip & Joanna freak show, don't do it. Spend money behind the walls on quality systems, insulation, better windows and doors, superior HVAC, all the better. People, especially women, get too emotional about the finishes which tend to come into and quickly go out of style.
Great commentary! Haha.
Yeah, I used to work in a pharmacy where people would see a new wonder drug advertised on TV and want a price before asking their doctor about it. After the sticker shock wore off I would tell them "if you see it on TV you can't afford it".
What do think about EPOXY FLOORS?
WHAT DO you think about EPOXY FLOORS ?
😂 Emotional woman here... women aren't the ones wandering Home Depot dreaming of built-ins and upgrades. Otherwise I agree.
Things of that nature. At the end of the day. Coughing -- Other wise a good video
LVP...🤮