I just have to thank you for taking the time to make videos of this whole process. I know how much of a pain in the ass it is to work on trucks and than to video tape it makes it that much harder. Your previous videos have saved me thousands by teaching me how to do it myself and I'm positive this series will save me thousands more in the future. Thanks again for putting in the extra effort to make these videos.
Thanks for the compliment. Yes the videos do take a lot of time but TH-cam is paying a little for them, my channel is still new and small but in a couple years when it has grown more popular I will be getting paid enough to look back and say it was worth the sacrifice, and even if it never grows that big, at least it's helping people and covers my internet and camera expense.
after you cut off the old head bolts, cut a slot across the top of the head bolt so you can use a screwdriver to turn the bolt out, then you just need a magnet to lift the bolt. did you use the Detroit"peanut butter" on the head bolts and the big cam bolt too? it is a one time use bolt. not absolutely necessary but easier to install the perimeter seal and diamond seal before you drop the head on. less hassle to leave the exhaust manifold on the head and just remove the 4 nuts for the turbo flange, pry it away and leave it hang there. did you install that o ring under the front cam cap too? Detroit now has a redundant seal that goes on the injector. it is a big fat o ring that pushes against the injector copper tube when the inj. is torqued down. this is a secondary band aid if the top o ring under the inj tube decides to leak. silicone sets up in the presence of oxygen and humidity. anaerobic sealer sets up in the absence of oxygen. what squeezed out would never set up but between the mating surfaces it would be fine. also if you torque those two long cam cap bolts to the max range and when you install the rocker shafts- torque the nuts to the minimum range, that way next time you remove the rocker shafts the studs would not come loose. eh. did you install the injectors where they came out? if not the ecm won't know the calibration of each inj. there is a two digit code on the metal tag on each inj. you need proprietary software to change them in the ecm. good stuff, good videos. overhaul outside in northern usa in Dec. no thanks. my respect to you. wrench on big guy.
Gordon I did my s60 series tune up watching your video when I cheek inside I find one injector spring broken I changed injector and adjusted valve it's working fine thanks for your help for everyone
Thank you for doing this series it has been very helpful in doing my inframe On your line up bolts I just cut a slot in the top when I cut the head off so I could get them out with a screwdriver
I can't take credit for that one this time, my neighbor friend replaced the head gasket on his truck about 8 years ago on the same motor and he told me to do that, it's in the book also. Thanks for following the series, there's 2 more videos coming this week.
Hey Gordon bet you're glad to have that thing back running you probably got a good nites sleep to lol. On those guide bolts for the head I usually take my cut off disc and cut a slot in them then I can use a screw driver to pull them out. Good job Gordon very informative.
I really think you are doing a pretty good job on the rebuild. That's not true about the torque wrench and the extension though. It doesn't matter if the extension twists, it's still the same torque at the other end. It only matters with an impact.
Easy method is air always goes to the top The restricted orifice sets the fuel rail pressure check valve goes below so the engine will fire up after setting a long time which prevents fuel drain back Both can be a real pain to change in the chassis between the head and fire wall
Just to kind of clear things up for the viewers that cam gear tends to back out after a while so you have to put international compound number 2 and torque to 55 foot pounds and then add an additional 120° turn. Some technicians also add blue locktite to the thread
Hi Gordon thank you for putting these great videos I have freightliner columbia 2007 Detroit series 60 14l I want to Rebuild what is important things I need to change.
I just read the directions when I saw that it wasn't drying, and then I took the caps back off and cleaned them and put them on with permatex ultra blue which I always keep on hand, anyway it's running, tomorrow I'll finish the loose ends and take it for a ride.
you should have put a slit on the top of the bolts you used to guide the head down then you would just have to use a flat bit screwdriver to take them out afterwards
Thanks John, but you know I can eat off almost any motor, when I was a young mechanic about 30 or 40 years back I still remember eating sandwiches with black fingerprints on them, it could still happen if I still ate lunch while working, but I had to quit that when I started gaining weight in my later years.
well done! I forgot about the electrical tape method,,, good to see the engine has new life. I was surprised to see about the epoxy behind the liners, I thought maybe JB weld? I am impressed at your efforts. Is this engine a screamer 2 stroke? I don't know much about big trucks... I remember when I reinstalled some pistons in a 2L VW after cleaning them with chem-dip, I put the piston in the block, then put the band clamp ring-compressor mated with the deck,,, but this method may be a bad choice for a heavy piston and rod, too much force on the oil control ring... that's how I did it, so the bore didn't eat the band clamp with a tap tap tap of the hammer handle... mechanics,,, so much to learn...
For future reference they updated the head bolt torque spec to 220 ft lbs years ago there were issues with leaking headgaskets when the original torque spec was 200ft lbs
I know this is a year later . I do the same as you using cut off bolts for alignment tools, the only thing I do different is I cut a slot on the end so I can use a screwdriver to turn out the alignment bolt.
Hi sir ,you did a great job,I have a question it is really important to rebuild the cylinder head i mean to change all those valves and springs, and if yes how much did you paid i have a quote of 3000 i thing is to much please give me a advice, thanks!!!
Sorry to bother u again but I don't remember seeing graphite seals when I took my injectors out unless they turn to crud. I don't see any on injectors and there looks to be something like a ring in the head but it's bigger than the new graphite seals I'm stumped
I didn't find seals the first time I changed injectors about 12 years ago on mine. If the new ones don't come with seals then I would just put them in without seals. You can ask a dealer or truck shop. You're not bothering me, ask away, I'll try to help if I can.
Hi Gordon, thanks again for doing all of this for us. Did you have to adjust the cam gear lash at all or are there any specs for this? Or is it pretty straightforward, set it and forget it?
There is a spec, if I remember .010" is the minimum I forgot the maximum on the adjustable idler gear that needs to be done with dial indicator, but since the head was only milled about .010 and the idler gear is mostly to the side and not under the cam gear I didn't worry about it, there's probably enough wear on the gears to make up for that after 1.5 million miles. I would recommend having the Detroit shop manual handy before doing any work inside the motor.
man I've been watching your videos I can't find any valve train torque specs I'm trying to tighten down my injectors and the two bars the Rockers ride on and the jake brake housing I can't find torque specs for any of those
I don't remember the specs for those, I'm at work now and can't look it up, but when I run into that I just use the standard torque specs for all bolts. You can Google "standard torque specs" and at the top of the page click images and print out a copy for your toolbox. Thanks for watching.
Mr. Gordon. I have two 60 series 14.0L that were marinized in 2008 . They run bunker C pumps on a fuel barge. At what hours should I consider overhauling engines. Port engine has 6812 hrs & starboard has 7126 hrs. What level overhaul should I consider for both engines.(basic/super or complete)
I don't know how many hours on a marine engine for a rebuild, but I'm sure you can go a good 15,000 hours if not 30,000. You should check the "bull gear" before 1 million miles on a truck (20,000 hrs.) That's like the timing chain on a car. I don't have a video on that yet but someone else might.
Hey ,MR.Robertson,how are you?Well done rebuild!!I have a Freightliner Century 2005 with Detroit s60 engine,1.200,000 miles on it!2nd liner gone bad:got cracked,oil and coolant mixed,stuck on the road!Mechanics said it's cause of bad coolant!Mechanic shop changed 1 liner only for the rest I didn't have money!So my question is how are the other liners,how long they can last,should I make rebuild soon?Ali,thanks!!
I would try to do the rest of the rebuild as soon as possible. It's cheaper to buy the whole rebuild kit with all 6 liners and pistons and just leave the new liner in the hole and put in the other 5 new ones.
There's probably a torque spec on them but I didn't do that, I just tightened then comfortably tight for me. I'm much more concerned about torquing parts with gaskets. Thanks for watching.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
I just have to thank you for taking the time to make videos of this whole process. I know how much of a pain in the ass it is to work on trucks and than to video tape it makes it that much harder. Your previous videos have saved me thousands by teaching me how to do it myself and I'm positive this series will save me thousands more in the future. Thanks again for putting in the extra effort to make these videos.
Thanks for the compliment. Yes the videos do take a lot of time but TH-cam is paying a little for them, my channel is still new and small but in a couple years when it has grown more popular I will be getting paid enough to look back and say it was worth the sacrifice, and even if it never grows that big, at least it's helping people and covers my internet and camera expense.
This video series will go down in history!!! Very in depth!!
after you cut off the old head bolts, cut a slot across the top of the head bolt so you can use a screwdriver to turn the bolt out, then you just need a magnet to lift the bolt. did you use the Detroit"peanut butter" on the head bolts and the big cam bolt too? it is a one time use bolt. not absolutely necessary but easier to install the perimeter seal and diamond seal before you drop the head on. less hassle to leave the exhaust manifold on the head and just remove the 4 nuts for the turbo flange, pry it away and leave it hang there. did you install that o ring under the front cam cap too? Detroit now has a redundant seal that goes on the injector. it is a big fat o ring that pushes against the injector copper tube when the inj. is torqued down. this is a secondary band aid if the top o ring under the inj tube decides to leak. silicone sets up in the presence of oxygen and humidity. anaerobic sealer sets up in the absence of oxygen. what squeezed out would never set up but between the mating surfaces it would be fine. also if you torque those two long cam cap bolts to the max range and when you install the rocker shafts- torque the nuts to the minimum range, that way next time you remove the rocker shafts the studs would not come loose. eh. did you install the injectors where they came out? if not the ecm won't know the calibration of each inj. there is a two digit code on the metal tag on each inj. you need proprietary software to change them in the ecm. good stuff, good videos. overhaul outside in northern usa in Dec. no thanks. my respect to you. wrench on big guy.
Some performance people drill that restriction hole out a little bit to get more fuel flow.One would have to look the procedure up.
Nicely done 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Gordon I did my s60 series tune up watching your video when I cheek inside I find one injector spring broken I changed injector and adjusted valve it's working fine thanks for your help for everyone
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Thank you for doing this series it has been very helpful in doing my inframe
On your line up bolts I just cut a slot in the top when I cut the head off so I could get them out with a screwdriver
Thanks for watching and commenting.
I’m in love w these videos. Thank you so much, i have learned many new things.
Thanks for watching.
You think of everything Gordon. I would have never thought about using the old head bolts as an an alignment tool.
I can't take credit for that one this time, my neighbor friend replaced the head gasket on his truck about 8 years ago on the same motor and he told me to do that, it's in the book also. Thanks for following the series, there's 2 more videos coming this week.
Hey Gordon bet you're glad to have that thing back running you probably got a good nites sleep to lol. On those guide bolts for the head I usually take my cut off disc and cut a slot in them then I can use a screw driver to pull them out. Good job Gordon very informative.
That's a good Idea, I didn't know how short they would be. No I didn't sleep good last night, I got it running today, I'll sleep good tonight.
You sir are a true inspiration source! Thank you for making these videos! Best regards from Sweden!
Thank you sir, and thank you for commenting
I really think you are doing a pretty good job on the rebuild. That's not true about the torque wrench and the extension though. It doesn't matter if the extension twists, it's still the same torque at the other end. It only matters with an impact.
Easy method is air always goes to the top
The restricted orifice sets the fuel rail pressure check valve goes below so the engine will fire up after setting a long time which prevents fuel drain back
Both can be a real pain to change in the chassis between the head and fire wall
Great video you definitely giving me life on a rebuild great detailed video
Just to kind of clear things up for the viewers that cam gear tends to back out after a while so you have to put international compound number 2 and torque to 55 foot pounds and then add an additional 120° turn. Some technicians also add blue locktite to the thread
Hi Gordon thank you for putting these great videos I have freightliner columbia 2007 Detroit series 60 14l I want to Rebuild what is important things I need to change.
Amazing videos!!! Absolutly Amazing, Thanks for these videos. Long live this video series.
Thank you Keith.
That sealant does not need activator, that stuff is just a surface prep which helps it cure faster, the absence of oxygen is what cures it.
I just read the directions when I saw that it wasn't drying, and then I took the caps back off and cleaned them and put them on with permatex ultra blue which I always keep on hand, anyway it's running, tomorrow I'll finish the loose ends and take it for a ride.
you should have put a slit on the top of the bolts you used to guide the head down then you would just have to use a flat bit screwdriver to take them out afterwards
You could eat off of that motor! Looking good Gordon.
Thanks John, but you know I can eat off almost any motor, when I was a young mechanic about 30 or 40 years back I still remember eating sandwiches with black fingerprints on them, it could still happen if I still ate lunch while working, but I had to quit that when I started gaining weight in my later years.
well done! I forgot about the electrical tape method,,, good to see the engine has new life. I was surprised to see about the epoxy behind the liners, I thought maybe JB weld? I am impressed at your efforts. Is this engine a screamer 2 stroke? I don't know much about big trucks... I remember when I reinstalled some pistons in a 2L VW after cleaning them with chem-dip, I put the piston in the block, then put the band clamp ring-compressor mated with the deck,,, but this method may be a bad choice for a heavy piston and rod, too much force on the oil control ring... that's how I did it, so the bore didn't eat the band clamp with a tap tap tap of the hammer handle... mechanics,,, so much to learn...
Thanks for watching Jonathan.
For future reference they updated the head bolt torque spec to 220 ft lbs years ago there were issues with leaking headgaskets when the original torque spec was 200ft lbs
you are a legend sir thanks once again
Thank You Sir.
I know this is a year later . I do the same as you using cut off bolts for alignment tools, the only thing I do different is I cut a slot on the end so I can use a screwdriver to turn out the alignment bolt.
If I need to do that again I'll cut the slot in the bolts, a couple of other people also said that.
Very good video. A lot of detail
thanks for your video sir .i learned a lot of things from you
Thanks for watching William.
I learned about dropping tools from working on bored wells.
Getting close to the end.....Good work!
Closer than you think, it's running. Thanks.
you can also put a little magi nut inside your socket also? if fear of losing a bolt inside your timing cover?
Muy bueno
Hi sir ,you did a great job,I have a question it is really important to rebuild the cylinder head i mean to change all those valves and springs, and if yes how much did you paid i have a quote of 3000 i thing is to much please give me a advice, thanks!!!
Sorry to bother u again but I don't remember seeing graphite seals when I took my injectors out unless they turn to crud. I don't see any on injectors and there looks to be something like a ring in the head but it's bigger than the new graphite seals I'm stumped
I didn't find seals the first time I changed injectors about 12 years ago on mine. If the new ones don't come with seals then I would just put them in without seals. You can ask a dealer or truck shop. You're not bothering me, ask away, I'll try to help if I can.
I want you to explain the injection of fuel into the combustion chamber.
How much did you save rebuilding your own cylinder head vs just buying a reman from dealer?
Hi Gordon, thanks again for doing all of this for us. Did you have to adjust the cam gear lash at all or are there any specs for this? Or is it pretty straightforward, set it and forget it?
There is a spec, if I remember .010" is the minimum I forgot the maximum on the adjustable idler gear that needs to be done with dial indicator, but since the head was only milled about .010 and the idler gear is mostly to the side and not under the cam gear I didn't worry about it, there's probably enough wear on the gears to make up for that after 1.5 million miles. I would recommend having the Detroit shop manual handy before doing any work inside the motor.
That a Boy My Man Gordon
Great job. Is it running??????
Yesss
Gordon Robertson
man I've been watching your videos I can't find any valve train torque specs I'm trying to tighten down my injectors and the two bars the Rockers ride on and the jake brake housing I can't find torque specs for any of those
I don't remember the specs for those, I'm at work now and can't look it up, but when I run into that I just use the standard torque specs for all bolts. You can Google "standard torque specs" and at the top of the page click images and print out a copy for your toolbox. Thanks for watching.
Gordon Robertson hey man I thank you very much for responding. your videos are very easy to understand and helped me a lot thank you
Thanks
Mr. Gordon. I have two 60 series 14.0L that were marinized in 2008 . They run bunker C pumps on a fuel barge. At what hours should I consider overhauling engines. Port engine has 6812 hrs & starboard has 7126 hrs. What level overhaul should I consider for both engines.(basic/super or complete)
I don't know how many hours on a marine engine for a rebuild, but I'm sure you can go a good 15,000 hours if not 30,000. You should check the "bull gear" before 1 million miles on a truck (20,000 hrs.) That's like the timing chain on a car. I don't have a video on that yet but someone else might.
That a Boy Gordon!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey ,MR.Robertson,how are you?Well done rebuild!!I have a Freightliner Century 2005 with Detroit s60 engine,1.200,000 miles on it!2nd liner gone bad:got cracked,oil and coolant mixed,stuck on the road!Mechanics said it's cause of bad coolant!Mechanic shop changed 1 liner only for the rest I didn't have money!So my question is how are the other liners,how long they can last,should I make rebuild soon?Ali,thanks!!
I would try to do the rest of the rebuild as soon as possible. It's cheaper to buy the whole rebuild kit with all 6 liners and pistons and just leave the new liner in the hole and put in the other 5 new ones.
Gordon Robertson alright,thanks a lot!!
Gordon Robertson One more thing,sir,how much is the rebuild usually cost and how long it takes?Step1
it takes 1-2 weeks and cost about $8,000 to $9,000 at a shop. It cost me about $4200 to do it my self at home.
Gordon Robertson thanks!
Where did you get the manual to remove the head
I got the books on ebay
Do u have to Torque them Injectors
There's probably a torque spec on them but I didn't do that, I just tightened then comfortably tight for me. I'm much more concerned about torquing parts with gaskets. Thanks for watching.
That a Boy Gordon
I just blew my engine after a rebuild on my 11.1 series 60 makes no sense about to get towed home
3 poin cam
Great job. Is it running??????