Old school Toyota bodyman here (since 1985), Next time connect the new cable to the latch end of the old cable with cable ties. Cut off the excess cable ties and pull it through from inside the cab. Just be careful pulling it through the rubber hole plug at the firewall. It can be a major timesaver on some models. On some models you may have to pull the fender liner if it's routed that way. It just depends how and where the cable is secured with clamps. Hope this helps . Love your channel and I wish you were local to me. I have a 98 Tacoma V6 SR5 access cab lowboy metallic red that is in mint condition.
1st gen Tacoma owner here. Toyota is purposely screwing us by discontinuing parts for this truck. It's not because there's not enough of them on the road. To them, there's TOO MANY still on the road, and they want us to buy their newer trucks with built in Big Brother. The 4th gen is such an utter abomination with absolutely absurd pricing, that it will be a cold day in hell when I purchase one. I replaced my hinge latch mechanism to find that it's my cable that's sticky. It's not completely seized so I'm going to remove it, and see if I can get it lubricated. If not, I'll go your same route. Thanks for the vid, my man. Following you now.
I loved the little bit of drama at the end where you chose to let the hood slam shut in the hopes the cable would work. Of course, you must have tested it with the screwdriver ahead of time, but, the anticipation was great.
I thank the good Lord that I live in a state that I don't really have to worry about rust. It is very sad to watch these vehicles that rust down to the ground. That is an investment and no one likes to see it turn into a rust bucket.
Friend, cars/trucks are not an investment... They are an expense that just keep on coasting. We like our investments to MAKE money. :-) But I most certainly agree regarding rust damage. Its downright ridiculous and frustrating.
Definitely apply the parking brake! LOL... We perhaps see "investment" differently. I expect an investment to make money for me, not incurr ongoing expenses. Similar to when people fall into the "sale price" concept to save money. You don't save money, you just spent a little less. I'm sure most of us would agree that after we spend hard earned money on a vehicle purchase we want to take care of it and preserve it as long as we can.
@@omf2007 It's long time overdue to eliminate the process of using salt on the roads and highways. It's a throwback to another era. As for making money, I trust you don't partake of that ultimate Ponzi scheme known as “the Stock Market.” One of the biggest cons ever dropped onto a gullible public. Since most (60%+) people live paycheck to paycheck, saving money is mostly a pipe dream. Which is why consumer debt is off the charts.
I would charge this guy a "nightmare" fee. Buddy, I've got a whole day of work lined up and you bring this in with a hood that won't open and it's undisclosed to me? Setting me back HOURS trying to unf*ck this nightmare. This ain't a valve cover - you know if your hood isn't opening.
That's exactly what I'm thinking, I would never turn my vehicle over to my mechanic without telling him first, edpecially if I was aware of an issue like that. That is ridiculous to assume someone will just figure that out how to get it open.
when I service any car I always oil or grease the latches, hinges and door straps. I have seen bonnets and tailgates literally fall off from lack of lubrication.
Was hoping you’d mention any issues related to how HIGH the hood rises when unlatched. I have a 2015 Tacoma hood release and latch work but the hood itself barely moves upward. Doesn’t seem adjustable.
Old school Toyota bodyman here (since 1985), All you need to do is spray some white lithium grease on the latch and open and close it a few times. Also, the adjustable hood stoppers on the upper tie bar will flatten with time. If the hood is low to the fenders, just turn the hood adjusters counter clockwise until the hood is flush with the fenders. Usually a quarter to a half turn is all that is needed. If this doesn't solve the problem, its usually because the vehicle has been in a wreck and wasn't properly aligned. To check for this , put the hood down but don't lock it and look at how the hood striker aligns with the latch. It should be centered. Hope this helps.
That reminded me of when the cable release on the rear hatch on my Expedition wouldn't release the hatch. That little sucker was a nightmare to fix. Ford made the best cable and cable holder you can imagine, with a special liner against the wire so that it would slide easily forever. Unfortunately, they decided to put plastic ends on the wire. What could go wrong, right? Luckily, someone makes a replacement cable end made out of aluminum, so I bought them. And of course, after replacing the cable controlling the door, the one controlling the rear glass also broke. I'm waiting for the ones in the doors to go any day. I'll cross that river when I get to it. Maybe they are made better, ha, ha, ha...
On my 77 SR5 Liftback, the cable always popped out of the latch behind the grille and I had to stick my fingers in there and pull it manually to open it. I believe Toyota had a bad design on that. The place where you put the cable was open at the top, and vibrations would make the cable pop out and I didn't find out until I tried to open the hood. Beside that, it was one of the best cars I ever owned.
Toyota is Discontinuing production on 20+ year old car/truck parts? Noooooo....... ;_; I guess aftermarket parts will have make do... So sad to hear this from Toyota... I guess it's not that uncommon...
I suppose you could have, but then you couldn't have tested it outside of the truck to see if it is really 100% unrepairable seized part that needs to be replaced.
Old school Toyota bodyman here (since 1985), Next time connect the new cable to the latch end of the old cable with cable ties. Cut off the excess cable ties and pull it through from inside the cab. Just be careful pulling it through the rubber hole plug at the firewall. It can be a major timesaver on some models. On some models you may have to pull the fender liner if it's routed that way. It just depends how and where the cable is secured with clamps. Hope this helps . Love your channel and I wish you were local to me. I have a 98 Tacoma V6 SR5 access cab lowboy metallic red that is in mint condition.
1st gen Tacoma owner here. Toyota is purposely screwing us by discontinuing parts for this truck. It's not because there's not enough of them on the road. To them, there's TOO MANY still on the road, and they want us to buy their newer trucks with built in Big Brother. The 4th gen is such an utter abomination with absolutely absurd pricing, that it will be a cold day in hell when I purchase one.
I replaced my hinge latch mechanism to find that it's my cable that's sticky. It's not completely seized so I'm going to remove it, and see if I can get it lubricated. If not, I'll go your same route.
Thanks for the vid, my man. Following you now.
Thanks! I am going right out and greasing my latch. Don't need any surprises down the road! Love your videos! 🚁🪂
You are an AWESOME EXCELLENT MECHANIC!! Very clever and patient to figure out many different issues!! Cheers from Texas, my friend!
You have repaired the latch towards to the front, very good peter very good. I am watching your Vork and it is a acceptable to me.
I never knew my latch needed greasing. There is a little job to do today.
Soak that latch with some spray White Lithium Grease, it works very well.
I loved the little bit of drama at the end where you chose to let the hood slam shut in the hopes the cable would work. Of course, you must have tested it with the screwdriver ahead of time, but, the anticipation was great.
I just so happen to have this exact issue with the wife's Tacoma. I shall tackle this weekend. Thanks, Petr
Reminding us all to spray ours with some lubricant.
Will it open? Of course it will!! It’s Peter!!
Love your information video’s! Thank You.
Great video Peter I grease my hood latch & cable a few times ayear!
Thank you for another helpful video!!
Great job 👏! You are the best 👌!
Great reminder for everyone 😂
In Australia, we have no Toyota Tacoma only Toyota Hilux.
Toyota Hilux is also incredibly reliable when done basic maintenance to it.
Next to Land Cruiser in reliability.
@@k6-3spetznazhelmet Especially the old diesel Toyota Hilux, they literally run forever.
Brasil também.
I thank the good Lord that I live in a state that I don't really have to worry about rust. It is very sad to watch these vehicles that rust down to the ground. That is an investment and no one likes to see it turn into a rust bucket.
It's long overdue for states to stop pouring toxic brine on the roads. Maybe a class action lawsuit would wake them up.
Friend, cars/trucks are not an investment... They are an expense that just keep on coasting. We like our investments to MAKE money. :-) But I most certainly agree regarding rust damage. Its downright ridiculous and frustrating.
@@omf2007 Spending $80k on a vehicle today IS an investment. “keep on coasting” ????? 😂😂 Then apply the parking brake...
Definitely apply the parking brake! LOL... We perhaps see "investment" differently. I expect an investment to make money for me, not incurr ongoing expenses. Similar to when people fall into the "sale price" concept to save money. You don't save money, you just spent a little less. I'm sure most of us would agree that after we spend hard earned money on a vehicle purchase we want to take care of it and preserve it as long as we can.
@@omf2007 It's long time overdue to eliminate the process of using salt on the roads and highways. It's a throwback to another era. As for making money, I trust you don't partake of that ultimate Ponzi scheme known as “the Stock Market.” One of the biggest cons ever dropped onto a gullible public. Since most (60%+) people live paycheck to paycheck, saving money is mostly a pipe dream. Which is why consumer debt is off the charts.
I would charge this guy a "nightmare" fee. Buddy, I've got a whole day of work lined up and you bring this in with a hood that won't open and it's undisclosed to me? Setting me back HOURS trying to unf*ck this nightmare. This ain't a valve cover - you know if your hood isn't opening.
That's exactly what I'm thinking, I would never turn my vehicle over to my mechanic without telling him first, edpecially if I was aware of an issue like that. That is ridiculous to assume someone will just figure that out how to get it open.
Great job Peter. You listed the price for the OEM part but didn't say how much it was at O'Reilly.
great video
Thanks for sharing Peter,I had a problem with my latch and fixed it also, pain n butt. Job.
My latch was messed up! Thanks. Going to watch this
Well done Petr! Thanks
when I service any car I always oil or grease the latches, hinges and door straps. I have seen bonnets and tailgates literally fall off from lack of lubrication.
Was hoping you’d mention any issues related to how HIGH the hood rises when unlatched. I have a 2015 Tacoma hood release and latch work but the hood itself barely moves upward. Doesn’t seem adjustable.
Old school Toyota bodyman here (since 1985), All you need to do is spray some white lithium grease on the latch and open and close it a few times. Also, the adjustable hood stoppers on the upper tie bar will flatten with time. If the hood is low to the fenders, just turn the hood adjusters counter clockwise until the hood is flush with the fenders. Usually a quarter to a half turn is all that is needed. If this doesn't solve the problem, its usually because the vehicle has been in a wreck and wasn't properly aligned. To check for this , put the hood down but don't lock it and look at how the hood striker aligns with the latch. It should be centered. Hope this helps.
use Nut-Z Lube from Canada?? it does attract some dirty but seems to be A0K on my '97 Taco rig
That reminded me of when the cable release on the rear hatch on my Expedition wouldn't release the hatch. That little sucker was a nightmare to fix. Ford made the best cable and cable holder you can imagine, with a special liner against the wire so that it would slide easily forever. Unfortunately, they decided to put plastic ends on the wire. What could go wrong, right? Luckily, someone makes a replacement cable end made out of aluminum, so I bought them. And of course, after replacing the cable controlling the door, the one controlling the rear glass also broke. I'm waiting for the ones in the doors to go any day. I'll cross that river when I get to it. Maybe they are made better, ha, ha, ha...
On my 77 SR5 Liftback, the cable always popped out of the latch behind the
grille and I had to stick my fingers in there and pull it manually to open it.
I believe Toyota had a bad design on that. The place where you put the
cable was open at the top, and vibrations would make the cable pop out
and I didn't find out until I tried to open the hood. Beside that, it was
one of the best cars I ever owned.
I have to do this on my Sequoia
Dorman trash lol sad there’s no oem version outside of pick’n pull. Great job as always Petr!
God bless~
I’ve never had luck with PB blaster
that stuff has a STRONG ODOR
That's easier than on a 98 4cyl. You'd have to remove the carbon canister assy.
Pior defeito, segundo Scotty Kilmer.
Latch was fine cable was bad.
Quick question what year is the black Toyota in the back ground? Lol.
Toyota is Discontinuing production on 20+ year old car/truck parts?
Noooooo....... ;_;
I guess aftermarket parts will have make do...
So sad to hear this from Toyota...
I guess it's not that uncommon...
No more OEM LBJs?
Could you just cut it in half to remove easily?
I suppose you could have, but then you couldn't have tested it outside of the truck to see if it is really 100% unrepairable seized part that needs to be replaced.