Stop Using Cheap Drywall Anchors | No Drill Needed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- The vast majority of items that need to be mounted to a wall or ceiling come with standard drywall anchors. The problem is that these drywall anchors are about as cheap as they come and are often hard to install because the plastic anchors just spin in the wall while you tighten the screw or the screw strips so you can't fully tighten the screw to the bracket. There is a better way and I will show you what product makes the pain of these cheap drywall anchors go away with superior hold and no drilling needed.
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E-Z Ancor #6 Screw: amzn.to/3cbPh0w
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Anchors Used
E-Z Ancor #7 Screw: amzn.to/3t2ii5D
E-Z Ancor #6 Screw: amzn.to/3cbPh0w
Project Farm has a video where he tests a whole bunch of drywall anchors and it's very illuminating.
It's 'Project Farm' for anybody looking for it. He has a lot of very helpful comparison videos. IIRC the plastic screw in anchor actually held more than the metal one, but I'm guessing it was due to slight variations in the drywall since they are the same shape.
@@dustintunis9347 I don't know why I constantly mix up the name.
@@goldenpun5592 - No problem, I don't remember which channel, but I screwed one up a couple months or so ago in a comment. After I commented I double checked myself because it didn't seem quite right and I wasn't sure why.
That is the first recommendation under this video lol
TH-cam knows 👀
I like that you screwed them in by hand screwdriver. I always do this to get a feel of the snugness. Some people use there drill driver which can over tighten if your not careful.
Exactly my thought process 👍
@Michael Bishop The fact you you have installed so many is likely why you don't overtighten. If someone has rarely done this, their lack of experience could lead to a problem.
@@PoeticJusticeSC I agree with you both. I do fully believe too many people leave their drill on the drill setting and never change it. Even with that all you have to do is gradually pull the trigger, and for some reason no one seems to do that. Every tool manual talks about starting slow and gradually increasing speed/power/torque.
I'm a beginner with DIY projects and wanted to to put up curtains. None of the plastic anchors i bought would go into my drywall. I made all of the rookie mistakes including using a drill. I wasn't aware i didn't need a drill for wall anchors and now have holes all around my window. I will be purchasing the metal anchors and update. Thanks for this!
I’m a beginner too. I predrilled a starting hole, but I must of made it too big. Live and learn.
Dude, your videos are awesome. No fluff, just great info and demonstration. You deserve way more subs. Have helped me with a lot of things I wasn't aware of.
Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words and support 👍
Thank you! These metal drywall screws are awesome and I just went to Home Depot to get mine and about to install mirrored bathroom cabinets. Great helpful video!!
I was about to hand something up with exactly the cheap stuff you were talking about. I knew I didn't want to work with them. Very glad I found this video. Thank you for the information.
Great video. Well demonstrated too. I've used these for a shelf in my kitchen that's' piled high with saucepans! Never had any issues. Solid and reliable. Thanks from the UK 🇬🇧
First I absolutely agree that anchors that come with products are usually horrible. I do find that the ez anchors tend to weaken the drywall it is screwed into and make for a bigger repair down the road compared to a good version of a plastic anchor (and by good I mean the ones that have an internal section that expands and grips the drywall as well as ends that separate decently behind the drywall for added pulling resistance). Of course it also depends on having the right screw for it and knowing how much weight it has to endure. My favorite for heavy items when I really need to be sure of holding strength is the snaptoggle by Paulin, which is quick to install and the toggle anchor stays in place if you need to remove the bolt.
YESSSSS I friggin LOVE the EZ-Ancor product too! Which also comes in white nylon. Both that version and the metal version have always worked great for me, and I have for more than a decade been tossing those stupid little pack-in plastic anchors that you always get. I don't know why they even bother to waste the plastic to make the worthless kind.
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Snaptoggles for heavy duty needs, walldogs for everything else. Both these products are miraculous.
I love these anchors from your video. I use them for more permanent type of mounting. For picture frames or other lighter weight decor I'm hooked on the command strips. No holes in walls and it makes it easy if I want to rearrange things.
I use these metal screw in anchors all the time and find I can rely on them to hold a significant amount of weight, but since they are NOT pre-threaded, i have to either put them in a vice or hold them with channel lock pliers and drive the screw into them and back out to form the threads well before securing them to the wall, now the screw will easily thread into the anchor and I do not risk further driving the anchor too far into the wall and permanently damaging the hole that was created.
The best drywall anchor I have ever used is made by Toggler. They make several different kinds. You predrill and push the anchor in the wall and use a tool to open the anchor up inside the wall. Nothing i have found works better than that flared piece in the wall. They are rated to carry over 150 pounds.
Do you mean the Strap Togglers? Are they ok to hang curtain rod brackets and the weight of the rod?
I've used the same E-Z Ancor as my main drywall anchor for about 25 years. My brother introduced them to me sometime between 1990 and 1997.
👍👍👍 Rich. E-Z Anchor brand is very good. Metal ones hold the best, but the plastic ones are alright, if they’re quality ones, like ITW/ Buildex. I hung a huge framed mirror on plaster walls, for my Mother, in her house, which is now my Sister’s. It was probably 95 pounds or so, strictly on metal zippits, and that was 11 Years ago. Still there! YMMV Peace!
Sounds like a strong vote of confidence with a mirror of that size 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Hey Scott, thanks for the comment! Unfortunately, where my Mom & Sister wanted it to go, was right in between the studs. I may have used a small amount of construction adhesive, but it still comes down to the anchors doing the work. Mom passed away not long after that, but that old mirror still hanging. 👍😁✌🏻
I've been using the plastic ones by E-Z anchor now for about 6-7 yrs and I really like them; honestly I didn't know that they made metal ones. Like yourself, I throw the cheap ones away when I buy something to put on the wall. The interior of our house is walled with 1/4 inch DW which doesn't offer much in the way of strength; so on occasion, for the heavier stuff, I have resorted to putting braces in the wall and reparing the drywall to hang something. Even though EZ says 50 lbs, once you start to get up there in weight, 1/4 inch DW just doesn't cut it. Thanks again for doing the research and the video production.
Your walls are 1/4" drywall or 1/4" drywall over wood paneling? I have never ran across a home with only 1/4" drywall?
I have always used the EZ Anchors for what I mount to the wall. I have a set of shelves & a 4 x 8 pegboard that have been hanging for just over 12 years. My shelves are full of automotive items (mainly fluids) and the pegboard is full of tools - heavy tools!
Very good. Every questions answered. It’s late tonight but I’ll be purchasing those screws first thing tomorrow to put to the test.
I don’t think you will be disappointed 👍
I like these but there is a downside. The metal seems to be zinc, and it seems soft. I have stripped them out taking the screws in and out. Then trying to replace it doesn't quite work without actually repairing the hole in the wall. The expanding ones I usually can slice the lip off with a knife, then push it into the wall and replace it with another one. And the hole is a lot smaller if I have to repair it.
Make sure you are using the correct diameter and type screw
Not to mention turning the screw in as straight as possible and by the feel of the hand as apposed to a drill.
@@williamdebow3478 I buy them with screws
I bought some of those years ago while browsing. They looked interesting. I've never actually found a use for them. I've never had the dry wall anchor problems you described. I've mounted a larger, heavier chime assembly with the cheesy anchors with no problems. For heavy items I used the metal molly wall anchors.
My problem with the self tapping anchors is the large hole it leaves in the wall when you remove it and the destruction it does to the dry wall. It’s a much bigger repair job to fill the hole and fix the wall. If the “cheap” ones spin, you are drilling to large of a hole. Pick a drill size so you can just fit it into the hole and hammer it in the rest of the way. It will be tight
I agree. I never had my drywall anchors spin on me. I always use what's in the product box first. If the product did not provide, I go to my cheap stuff I got (probably free) after rebate from Menards. Never had a screw be loose, but I stop at snug tight. If I can go stud, I do, and I keep the left over anchors (if there were any).
Maybe if the initial anchor hole was not too big they are tightening too much? I could see that causing an issue sort of stripping out the drywall.
I was just going to put this comment in, i have had more damage done to my walls using these. I even had the plastic version of these snap. I dont have issues with standard wall anchors.
Pro tip, dont remove the anchor when you need to remove it, just screw it until it lies under the surface and cover it over
@@DismemberTheAlamo pretty much gives it its own backing. Good idea
@@ashtonguillory2179 - it was more a smart ass lazy thing. But I mean, yer not wrong
These are great but like the guy stated before they are a pain to remove so don't. if you need to cover them simple tap them in a little with a hammer, just enough to dimple them in. After that simply mud them over and paint. Easy
Self tapping anchors are my favorite, the metal ones are great when you don’t know where the studs are but I like the plastic self tapping ones that spread behind the wall by the. Same company
Yeah, I tend to just always use the metal anchors but I know others have mentioned they like the plastic as well.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs You want to use the plastic ones if you aren't sure whether there are wires behind the wall. If you screw a metal one into a piece of Romex you will have a mess. If it happened with a plastic one you probably would never know it. Both kinds are awesome!
Yes 👍 I use the cheat anchor ⚓ and they didn't work well but I will buy The easy anchor and use it ,thanks for your information and videos 📹, I appreciate you 🙏
Thanks, happy to help!
Used these for years. They work great!!
I have seen the plastic ones, but the metal anchors look great. I will remember this tip! Thanks.
Yep, metal are much better 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs They don't seem to test better. th-cam.com/video/lHb-Tcvkn7M/w-d-xo.html
I like the plastic plugs better because you can use them in concrete as well. They work fine in drywall as long as you don't make the hole too big. For some reason when I use the EZ anchors the hole ends up being a little off from where I marked it. As for the plastic EZ anchors sometimesin certain drywall the tip won't dig in and they also strip out sometimes
These anchors are my choice also. Just happened upon them and they come out nice too.
Not the best example - there's barely any weight to that doorbell, plus the wire is holding it up as well. You could screw that straight into the drywall with just a wood screw and no anchor at all it would never move. What about for shelves or coat hooks? I've had those screw in anchors you show fail when trying to hang valance/curtains. And those big screw in anchors create huge holes that are harder to fill as well if you need to redo it or move what was hung. I think toggle bolts are better for heavy loads, but they're also impossible to remove.
I just tried using those cheap anchors. They're awful; I'm glad I found this video.
I just started using these after I got fed up with those plastic things or the ones that are supposed to open up in the wall after several failed on me. They work so much better.
Hum? I thought it was just me. Was too willing to believe my technique was amiss. Now, what can I hang to redeem myself? Your vid are very helpful.
Plastic ones are rated better for drywall if your using the toggler brand
Use 'em all the time for years now. BEST PRODUCT for the money!!
👍👍
I have never seen those anchors before. I need to buy a bunch of those. Thank you for showing us them.
Nice, I think you will like the upgrade!
I've stop using those cheap things and have a box of my own wall anchors. Save so much time and frustrations. Never used the plastic one. I always predrill my holes even though it's not needed. Predrilling makes it go in easier and flush against the wall.
I thought I was the only one who hated the cheapie anchors... I’m going to try the EZ anchor.
I was really frustrated that those "included" anchors NEVER work! I've used the EZ Anchors before but totally forgot about them.......
Many thanks! The weight limit is probably overkill, but I would rather that than having holes all over my wall!
Great video!!!!!
I have used these metal anchors many times and they pull out of the wall fairly easily. I prefer this type that also has the expanding wings that pop out inside the wallboard.
I love these things...I work in a sheet rock Habitrail and these work better then anything.
I tend to use the butterfly anchors, however, I will try the metal tapping anchors now that you familiarized me with them. Thanks for giving us DIY's such practical tips.
I like the toggle bolts for anything which needs a bit more holding strength.
Tried the metal ones...the Toggler Snapskru plastic ones work better !
*You gave 2 choices...there's a 3rd that's the best, toggle bolts. Both your choices are weak, only as strong as the sheetrock*
I actually really like Toggle bolts but was trying to focus this specific video on just 2 options. 👍
Good video. I hate the plastic self tapping ones. I’ve had too many issues with the screw going into the anchor and it’s too tight which causes the anchor to break the drywall so it can’t anchor itself. What a nightmare. I’ll try to get some of these metal ones. Rock on!
i dont understand you , the "cheap /standart " anchor are not design for drywall or celular beton !!!!! whay people compare this to types of anchor ! now try the the 2 in the stone /brick / concret and tell me wich one is "cheap " /better
I would imagine that doorbell only weighs a couple pounds. Maybe 10 pounds, if i'm being really generous. It seems the cheapest anchor would work just fine with that. It would have been nice to see heavier applications with your choice anchors.
I used the plastic anchors for wire shelving uprights but a couple pulled out ... I’ll stick w/ the metal ones in the future...
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Those work really well but you should only use them on something you regard as permanent. When you take them out, they leave a gaping hole. If you live in an apartment, and want to hang a small decoration, there are other alternatives that won't leave such a huge hole when you move out.
If you do get the plastic kind, get concrete anchors. They look the same but hold way better. I've hung shelves (for clothes) and a few tvs on the concrete anchors.
I regularly have to replace them with hollow wall anchors. Those are used a lot by contractors hanging lighting on ceilings here in the uk and over time they work loose. I’m in maintenance and have to attend to this type of problem after a short period of time eg a couple of years after contractors left. I get a report of light fitting hanging down on cables in student accommodation.
I did not know metal versions of these existed, I've been using the plastic versions for a while and found that about one out of every five I try to install will break while pushing it into the wall/ceiling. Other than that, they seem to work ok from my experience.
Exactly, my experience was about 2 out of 5 would fail. I think the metal anchors are a no brainer and a nice upgrade.
Thank you! I am not a do it your self type. This was helpful.
I used the skinny ones that came with my product and they work just fine if you make the hole just the right size so they barely snug in and maybe you have to barely tap it to get it in all the way flush. They shouldn't be too snug or the screw may bind up or you'll smash the end trying to get it flush. Too big/loose and it will pull out, obviously you'll have to use these bigger ones this guy is showing you if you mess up. The small cheap ones don't leave room for error. If you aren't good at spatials, go with what this guy says. They are way easier to deal with.
EZ toggles are the best. They are more difficult to get "right" and you have to gut them off if yuo want to remove them but they will hold the most weight and are will even work is you "strip" the drywall.
They have some new ones that are flat like a knife. And they leave less of a hole. Haven't used them but seem interesting. One thing that bugs me is it doesn't seem to screw in all the way. They seem strong so I hope they are made to blow out the back of the anchor
I feel you with the "included" fasteners, but the metal EZ Anchors are way, way overkill for most jobs. Shelves that are gonna hold books, where you cannot quite catch a stud? Absolutely, use metal. But for most everything else, if you stay below the weight rating, you will be fine with the plastic. I've used the plastic 20lb anchors (2 per hanger) to hang 1000s of dollars worth of guitars for a couple decades now without any incident.
Zip Toggles have been my go to in my house. All the wall are drywall over plaster.
I've always want to, if I could ever build my own home, have 1/2" plywood behind all of my drywall that way I can hang damn near any small item or small shelf all willy-nilly wherever and never have to worry about locating a stud.
If you do this, the drywall may be more prone to cracking at joints due to movement of plywood sheet. The plywood may be dimensionally stable, the wall stud and the whole building is not. Old wood lath and plaster wall is nailed down and harder than drywall, but it's more prone to crack too.
I'm about to hang a stair rail where there hasn't been one before, and found this video. I notice that E-Z Ancor has a screw in metal anchor with a toggle, that's rated for 100 lbs. I'm going to do my best to locate studs (I've got a pretty good stud finder, and am also willing to drill test holes to make sure I'm going into wood), and screw my rail hangers to them, but I might need to use some kind of drywall anchor, if the studs just aren't where I need them... Thoughts? Anyone? === P.S. I wanted to add that, though I just found this video, I've been subscribed to this channel for a while, and consider it a reliable and enjoyable source of information! Many thanks and happy holidays to all!
Do like your videos, in this case where you have 3/4 inches of wall, the doorbell should hold with just the screws. Those units are very light.
For sure, probably won't be fully utilizing the 80 lbs of capacity 😂
As others have said, the wall plugs you showed at the start are not suitable for hollow (drywall) walls by design. They work when placed in a blind hole in solid material (brick, block, concrete) by deforming between the hole and the screw and tightly gripping the screw and substrate. When inserted in drywall they just expland without resistance when the screw is inserted. Because they have nothing to tighten against there's slop and the scre can wallow out the hole in the drywall and your fixing just falls out.
They are simple and effective, but only in the right wall types, I imagine in north america where pretty much everything seems to be stick frame construction these are much less practical to include with products for diy installation, but in much of the rest of the world, only a small number of interior walls are stud walls.
I used metal anchors on paneling to hang a CD shelf.
Fingers crossed🙂
The weigh rating should be of what the dry wall can support, not what the anchor can support!
Nah, those suck and most of the time removing the screw also takes out the anchor leaving a massive hole. Fisher anchors have worked well for me.
Thanks for the feedback. I actually have never tried out Fischer anchors. Might give them a whirl.
I wish ez anchor made metal plugs for the heavier weight anchors.
These cheap dowels are suitable for stone or concrete. Anything where you can drill a blind hole, the dowel is inserted into it and expands. But there are better ones even for that.
English: dowel = wall plug, wall anchor, rawlplug ... what ever that is called
Those are the only drywall metal fasteners I use for a while now. They are much more heavy duty.
Agreed 👍
That echo! Would like to see a shelf tested with a rotation moment that pulls out the anchor.
Great very quick video to help others. Please keep up the great work.
I have used them before. The problem is they tend to wander and you really can’t put a shelf up dead level because of that problem
Sounds good to me. I need to try these. Thanks for the vid
Happy to help!
These are great except a hotel or timeshare that guests will use the use on a towel bar that is used to help a 200 lb. person out of a shower. Been there, saw the damaged done to wall🤬
oh my, yeah the towel rods go through torture tests for sure. I prefer old fashion toggle bolts for towel rods in my rentals.
I find the only time I ever used the plastic ones is when it's drywall over a cement wall where you only have 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch of clearance. I cut the pointy part off after using it to make pilot holes and only ever use it to hang lightweight pictures. For heavier items I just use concrete anchors.
Omg THANK YOU they worked so much better
Thanks for that tip, I wish I would have know about those anchors. Had a project and the anchors I used failed. Will be sure to purchase some of those. Do u have any videos on picture anchors what u would recommend? Thanks
I don't have any videos specific for pictures but I would most likely just recommend the same anchors shown in this video. Only need the #6 screw size anchor unless the picture is really heavy.
You did not mention what kind of driver you used to screw the metal anchor into the wall.
I have used the cheap plastic anchors with good success for relatively light items like the doorbell chime or a photo in a frame. I usually drill the hole slightly (one size) smaller or at least make sure I don't wiggle the drill, making the hole oblong. Often I have to tap them in gently with a hammer and they hold well once installed.
If you have plaster behind your drywall, then definitely go with the metal screw-in anchors you mention. The plastic won't thread in at all. Again, the cheap ones will hold well in plaster with the right size hole.
All, that said, stronger is always better and the thread-in type, especially the metal ones are stronger, so good! I would never try to put 50 lbs load on them, but I suppose if you're talking straight downward load, they would be pretty strong. Any awkwardness of load direction would make me think of doing something else. My experience of drywall is it's not consistent. They seem to have strong areas and weak areas, so I imagine manufacturers of these anchors choose the strongest results for their specs. Just be cautious!
The pig tails used in the video are ok for items that are not particularly heavy, spring toggles or hollow wall anchors are better for heavier loads
Agree, I am a big fan of standard toggle bolts for anything which has a little more loading.
I would've simply used w/black wall dogs here&have used for years w/o issue.
Either one can crush the adjoining drywall, which weakens the area. I always use some glue to help remedy this, lately I favor a foamy polyurethane like Gorilla, when using these. The EZ Ancors have the advantage that the glue has less of a tendency to glue the anchor shut.
thanks god that crack is on your wall and not on my display..... scarred me for a second !!!
I have used the self tapping anchors before and preferer them to the standard anchors. The standard anchors are worthless. I will have to try the metal self tapping ones.
i dont understand you , the "cheap /standart " anchor are not design for drywall or celular beton !!!!! whay people compare this to types of anchor ! now try the the 2 in the stone /brick / concret and tell me wich one is "cheap " /better
Strongly disagree. Screw-in anchors like this chew up the drywall as they're being inserted. They actively destroy the very substrate they rely on for support! They're also notoriously easy to over-tighten.
When (not 'if') they fail, they fail catastrophically, leaving a crater in the wall and your porcelain figurines on the floor.
Screw-in anchors should not exist. Avoid them at all costs. Use a Toggler SnapToggle instead!
...Unless you're installing a door chime in which case use any anchor you want. Those chimes weigh next to nothing and are usually installed far overhead where they will likely never be disturbed. You could fasten one with only drywall screws and no anchor at all and it would probably last the lifetime of the house.
Metal screws works for me. Thanks for the Video. Enjoy them, always very detailed.
Thanks Phillip.
I don’t use those screw in anchors, I use the triple grip hammer in ones.
I find the triple grip are the best anchors I've used. I really don't like the style in the video because they leave a big hole. The plastic ones will often snap or strip if you try to remove them, assuming they don't just strip out of the drywall, leaving an even bigger patch job.
The self threading metal anchors hold my Bass Guitars on the wall, the plastic old style anchors are crap, couldn't do the job.
Hey, I'm so happy I came across your channel. I do have one question. I have drywall only, my wall don't have NO STUDS. ALL DRYWALL. Will these anchor work for drywall with no studs? I hope to hear from you soon. Thank you again for sharing.
Agreed… the cheap plastic anchors that come with items to hang on the wall are garbage 9 out of 10 times. I’ve been wanting to use the metal anchors but I haven’t made the switch because the plastic screw in anchors hold almost twice as much weight. I avoid breaking the plastic screw in anchors by drilling a pilot hole.
i dont understand you , the "cheap /standart " anchor are not design for drywall or celular beton !!!!! whay people compare this to types of anchor ! now try the the 2 in the stone /brick / concret and tell me wich one is "cheap " /better
people need to start using words right , the cheap anchor are not garbage
@@TheMakyato I’m talking about the cheap anchors that come with towel racks, curtains and other things you hang on the wall. Not the anchors you purchase from the store.
That’s awesome no more aggravation 👍👀👌
Can you leave the screw out at least 3/4 inch to hang a picture on the screw
I would leave it out 3/4" but a 1/4" or 3/8" would be fine. The anchor is a bit weaker but not a big difference.
To be fair there are two types of things you hang on a wall. Heavy and Light. You're hanging something light - why would you not JUST use mounting tape for this?
Heavy? Then what you want to use always are Toggler brand snap toggles. These are like butterfly anchors but with a pair of zipties that hold them to a plastic face plate. This way you can add/remove machine screws to hold what you're hanging. To me there is no in between. Either it needs to be hung and stay there or it can be held on with tape (or you can hit a stud)
I like the anchors but not the size of the holes.
Yeah, it can leave a bit more damaged but if you need to remove them and just unscrew vs pulling out the damage isn't too bad.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Good point.
I never knew what the hell these were properly called; we always call them "zip-its" in the commercial electric world
The problem lies not in the anchor, but rather the user who chooses the wrong anchor. The anchors you show here at the beginning of your video are not intended for drywall. People just try to use them becasue they are automatically delivered with many products. Either because they are stingy or due to lack of knowledge. They are actually only intended for solid stone or concret walls. These anchors are automatially delivered with everyhing these days. I have loads of them that I have saved in the thought "Maybe, just maybe?" I can use them one day for something. Forget it ... will never happen! Anyone who looks closely will also notice that even in concret the screws are "always much too short to really grasp properly in these anchors when used to mount the object that has been purchased. For my projects I "always" purchase my anchors seperately. When I am advised from someone when purchasing something and they tell me the anchors are included I just laugh to my self and purchase what I see fit. I may be over serious about this but to this day I have had no problems. I learned from a short experience in younger years, live by it and have not regreted it. Have anice day. PS- I do not live n the USA and assume that this is a world wide problem.
This is interesting because many people have made the same point but to be honest I disagree. The plastic anchors included in this doorbell chime and many other products are actually made for both masonry and drywall. Anchors which are only made for masonry will not have the design where as the screw is driven into the anchor the ends of the anchor flare out to hold into the drywall. Thanks for the feedback!
Maybe this plastic ones are not for drywall? They works great in concrete walls.
I've tried the plastic ones before. I thought they were a great idea. But in my case the sheetrock walls were so old that they actually broke the plastic anchors. I did not know they made metal anchors. That's going to be my next project.
The metal ones are terrible, they pull out very easily. Get the plastic ones that snap open, they hold better.
Yah, got to switch from nylon to metal. The nylon ones break the tip as you screw them into the drywall. I end up using a 1/4 inch bit to drill for the tip. Enough of that, going metal. Thanks!
I’ll confess that I haven’t always drilled pilot holes and instead use a Philips screwdriver to punch a hole that’s slightly smaller than the anchor. Does that decrease the strength of the anchor by doing it this way? I just installed a 4 pound LED light panel on my garage ceiling using this method. Two anchors on each end.
metal anchor are better for hanging curtain rods
Use plastic anchors, use nail set, punch small hole smaller then where flanges stick out, them hammer anchor on. Metal or plastic screw anchors in 1/2 drywall will eventually pull out!!! If concerned with plastic anchor use a small amount of caulk or glue nail caulk, the plastic works better!,,,
What do you think about the OOK no stud for drywall? Can you do a vid on it?