Looks good and it's strong. Nicely done. For commenters. Miter fold and lock router joints are better for none solid wood. This joint requires solid wood face. However it gives options on different corner profiles plus stronger. I leave center supports free until install for left to right adjustments which is especially important on full floating shelving. Also relief at least a 45 or 1/2" x 1/2" out of wall side to scribe tight to wall covering. My take is it looks great and will last a long time. Hopefully it inspires people to try and make them.
After 45+ yrs as a cabinetmaker miter folding is standard in the industry. In veneer, melamine, laminate, you name it it’s miter folded. Your system with 1/2 ply and solid nose is the method I use for myself at home.
You just gained a big fan. Love the way you break it up and explain this. All of it. As a teacher (Montréal, Canada), I can tell you you have a very good way of explaining things to make them easy to understand. Keep it up. 👍🏽
Awesome method! If I had a router table I would definitely invest in one of these bits. I hope your business takes off by surprise, cause we need more people like you in this world. As a woodworker myself, I congradulate you on everything you work so hard for. :)
I have a very similar bit amd have yet to get it to work on a 90 between 2 pieces couldnt figure out the depths.. this video gave me a direction to go to figure it out,,,, thanks. great video
Agreed. No one wants to see the joint where the wood meets and miter folds you can grain match and ... honestly it's a floating shelf...you are putting 1000 pounds of knick knacks on it. I like this guy's video but the design is over engineered for the use case IMO
Very curios as I have been talking about and actually starting a floating shelf in my wife's laundry room. Love the way you've done the face with black walnut! Great job!
I used a solid piece of wood, drilled two long holes for the supports and 2 tiny holes in the bottom to secure them. This solution has way more options as far as dimensions go so good idea 💡
Been in a funk with my woodworking last few months. Not sure why but this video fired me up a bit to get back in the game. thanks ! subscribed and liked
Greetings! As an old, carpenter(builder) for many years, I’m the last of two generations. I’ve worked with a lot of wood (not a wood carpenter). I must say, you have a beautiful top notch presentation. I’m grumpy built.😂 Today, I only cut wood for campfire songs 😵💫 All the best to you and may you have many tree rings of Blessings! I’ll sub. ✌️
I w had a brand new glue Line bite in my cabinet for about 3 months now. I am going to play around with it. I do floating shelves all the time and this is an awesome alternative To mitered corners. Thanks man
Jordan, excellent video, great production values, thanks for sharing your mistakes (that’s how we all learn), very effective “tell-then-show” instructional design. Really well done. Thank you so much for taking the time to create this valuable content and share it with us. You asked how others had done floating shelves. I recently made two 8-foot-long shelves using a similar technique - mahogany plywood top & bottom wrapped with 3/8” solid mahogany on the face and sides, with the grain flowing around mitered corners - but I attached the face and sides to the plywood by using (a lot of) biscuits and glue. My technique was stronger than the folded miters everyone else does, but not nearly as strong as the interlocking glue line profile that you used. If I’m going to make more floating shelves, I will definitely buy that router bit. Since the shelves were so long, the glue up was challenging. I used a lot of F-style and parallel clamps to hold the long front face on, and I used ratcheting tie downs (like what you’d find in the bed of a pickup truck) linked together and wrapped around the long way to hold the sides on. After the glue dried and I needed to get the slightly proud hardwood faces flush down with the plywood, I was going to use a flush trim bit in a hand-held router, but I was scared to death I’d tear out the edge of the mahogany and screw everything up. So instead I sanded - and accidentally sanded off some of that thin plywood veneer, just like you did. :) P.S. I made a jig and routed a channel on the bottom of each shelf to install LED lighting, which came out fantastic, thanks to a video I watched by Spencer Lewis at Insider Carpentry (th-cam.com/video/AAoo_VwqQZc/w-d-xo.html) -- Thank you @Spencer!
8 footers sounds like a tough challenge for sure! But it sounds like you did an awesome job. Spencer is great, I’ve learned a lot from him. Thank you for the great comment 😁
Well done. I typically find myself using a solid single piece of hardwood, but if I could find decent plywood as you had here, I'd certainly use this method.
what a beautiful and clean looking shelf! i love that you have the option of using a router to shape the corners, which is tricky/impossible if you used plywood only
Well done that's how the professionals do it. I know because that's exactly how I do it every single time and I am a cabinet builder. Also a woodworker
Good to see that I'm not the only guy out there that over-engineers the heck out of my projects. About 11 years ago, I made 4 floating shelves out of 12mm mdf, miterfolded the joints, and installed small, built-in halogen spotlights (for cabinet applications). I used thick maple strips for the wall brackets, very similar to your design. Never ever had a problem with anything sagging or splitting. I think what's most important is to think things through in terms of weight on the bracket and minimum/maximum thickness of material topside/underside shelf. One thing I will say in your defence of a more 'sophisticated' construction is that you're challenging yourself with learning techniques that will help you in other projects where this extra attention to structural integrity is a must. So there's that. Great work brother, not a thing wrong with this, even though it IS a wee bit overkill 😂 You've got an end result there that no one can argue with.
I'm surprised hollow floating shelves aren't normally made like this. I feel like this is just how I saw things in my head if I were to build one. It looks so great and is quite simple
Since a set of floating shelves has just been commission by my better half for her bedroom (which she lets me share with her), I found your video just in the nick of time. While I like the idea of using plywood for the top and bottom, I think that the plywood with hardwood facesheets redefine the meaning of thin veneers as they try to use the absolute minimum amount of the expensive wood. As a result, I, like you did, have sanded right through the facesheet and ruined an entire piece that I had put many hours into. But this year Santa was *_very_* nice to me and brought me a bandsaw (a 14" Rikon 10-326) which can resaw lumber up to about 12" wide and Resaw King blade that is supposed to be the very best for resawing lumber. Besides being able to save money on wood by buy rough lumber and resawing to the specific thickness I want, the reason that I told Santa that I really wanted a big bandsaw like this is that I want to see if I can make "thick" (~1/4") veneer sheets that I can then glue to a high quality, but plain wood, plywood like baltic birch. Besides not worrying so much about sanding through the face sheets, I can make the veneers from not only the same species of wood as the solid wood pieces like the the front and sides on these shelves, but potentially even from the same piece of wood which should go a long way to matching the color and in a few places achieving grain matching to make the illusion of it all being from one solid piece of wood even stronger. Plus with more than half of the wood in the shelves being plywood, I should be able to save even more money on future woodworking projects. Santa says I better be right. This particular toy was waaay more expensive than she had budgeted for gifts for me this year! There was even some muttering about it being more than the budget for the next three Christmases! Thanks for making this video and wish me luck.
Dude, this has been the most beneficial video I have watched so far in regards to woodworking and building stuff. There is no doubt in my mind that this is a much better technique. Thank you!
@@EverydayBuilds I must have misunderstood. I may go in and edit my comment so I don’t look like a complete idiot. Lol. You really did do an awesome job. I was just getting ready to go to bed. I work nights as a nurse. And I was actually reading some of the comments here. It is extremely beneficial to show your “mistakes” (learning opportunities) as well as your successes.
I have an idea for shelving, plant shelves, cat trees, etc. I was hesitant to share it with anybody for fear that somebody would steal my idea. But after watching this, I realized that sharing is how we give back to each other, learn from each other, etc. Actually, I’m kind of ashamed of myself. It is an example of a poverty mentality. If you are interested in hearing more about this, please let me know. I think you would have some great ideas on how to do this. I have tried to find out what the poles are called that hold up the shelves. For now we will call in poles. Traditional shelving units have four poles. For the past couple years shelving units with 2 poles that make a 90 degree turn at the top and screw into the wall have been popular. I was thinking that a shelving unit or cattery or whatever with two poles floor to ceiling would be awesome. For the past two or three months, I have taken some steps towards minimalism. One of the concepts or benefits is the less stuff we have, the less we have to take care of. I definitely agree with this, but I don’t plan on taking it to an extreme. However, I remember one video. I watched where the lady has chosen not to have side tables and no rug on the hardwood floor. Her reasoning is that it makes it easier to clean. Obviously one thing is not going to make a huge difference. However, when I clean my place, it’s so small that I have to move stuff from one side of the room to the other side of the room, etc. etc. So here is my idea: having shelves or cat trees or whatever that appear to hang from the ceiling by one pole. This would look great, AND it would make things easier to clean. But to be clear mostly it would look great. I have not thought of a way that the shelves to only have one connection points, so I am thinking that there would be a way to attach one or two of the shelves or parts of the cat tree or whatever shoe a wall obviously in a very strategic fashion, so that it still appears that everything is just hanging by one pole. And then, if whatever it is someone is building happens to be in the middle of a room or too far away from the wall to be able to use the wall than one floor to ceiling pole would still look great. Anyway, if you have any ideas or want to come up with something together, please let me know. I just think this would be such a unique look, and have the benefit of one less thing to have to move to clean under. It would definitely necessitate using high quality materials, maybe even inner metal poles or something
I wanted to let you know I found an example of what I am talking about. I have tried to find examples previously, but no luck (except utility-like shelves in the garage, and they are still traditional in that they have 4 poles). If you google Unica Shelving Ceiling Nomon you will see a great example. It appears that all of their shelves and desks and other furniture in this line, primarily have only one pole or whatever they’re called, but in the case of a desk for instance there are two supports/poles. And they do what I suspected you would have to do, which is attach at least one usually two of the shelves to the wall in a very discreet manner.
it is an amazing method to build floating shelves. keep up the great work! Is there another video which shows how you hang this to the wall? I am trying to see how did you end up hanging to the wall.
5:25 feather boards can be your friend. Use 2 of them, one on either side of your router bit. 6:38 to make your cuts less stressful on your router, and safer for you, don't go full depth on your first cut, especially with hardwoods. With this bit, make your first cut at about 50%, and then make a second pass at 100% depth, or you can make it even safer by breaking it up into thirds.
Just subscribed. Even as someone who spends way too much money being a Festool fan boy. I have to say I always chuckle when someone says "I grabbed a piece of walnut out of the scrap pile..." 🤣
@@EverydayBuilds There I admit to being very envious - here in Germany Walnut is a real luxury, I haven't even seen Walnut veneer plywood at the normal merchants. All types of Birch ply and veneers, some Beech, even some Maple/Poplar, but only Walnut solid, at a price that takes all joy out of woodworking. This post of yours is a real gem, thanks. I'm a mere hobby woodworker, making stuff that can find a place in our house, or my wife explicitly wants, but the knowledge you pass on here is great. Thanks for the post, and also to the many tips posted in the comments!
Great video, and wonderful instruction. Just wanted to mention, based on the glue joint you showed on the bit, it is possible that your under-table router is a little bit non-square. Could be something else (unsteady feed, etc), but the extra slop is sometimes caused by alignment issues.
Box miter bit would be awesome, great joint... depending on how you're going to hang these, cutting the inside supports shorter could allow you to use a wall cleat... there are different ways in mounting these shelves... with more experience you'll figure the best possible way...
Hi, like your design! I noticed you're a fellow Dust-Dog owner. Hope this helps...don't use the hand-crank dilleo. It shortens the life of your filter, use an air nozzle instead. I happened across this info when doing DC modification research.
Nice. Like the tip about only putting line of glue on the inside part of the joint. It’s the cleanup of the glue on the outside that is usually the cause of sanding through the veneer…even when I think I have done a good job wiping it before it dries.
I like watching your videos and getting the great build tips. You do fantastic work..If I was making these videos (which I'm not) I'd conciser adding in a safety disclaimer and recommend using some type of push blocks..Pushing that face over the router, your fingers are really close to that bit. Someone with little experience using a router table might not be so mindful of the dangers. If that piece of wood grabs or jumps, serious injury is very possible. I didn't read through all the 350 comments to see if already addressed, but hopefully this will help someone. Again, great videos and I get a lot out of them.
You are 100% correct, I should have absolutely been using push blocks. And you are not the first to point that out. Thank you for taking the time to make sure everyone is being safe 🙏
This is an awesome build. I have been doing floating shelves for years and this seems to avoid all the regular problems I have encountered. My guess is that this shelf will go into a corner. 2 questions... 1. What are you using to mount the shelves? 2. How would you mount an open wall shelf with both sides finished?
@@OVHabitatsI have only done the wood supports if I had side wall support. Not sure I would do this method if it had no side support. I might have to test it out.
Great technique but a miter lock bit is even better. Make the top, front and bottom the same thickness and the run top and bottom flat. Before you run the front vertically raise the bit about 1 or 2mm. that will make it sit that amount proud. After glue up and putting a little round over on it the joint will be almost invisible but you will have a little bit of solid wood on the front edge. That way you won't see the bit of of solid wood that you have on the top and bottom surfaces.
You’re correct but it also leaves the veneer very vulnerable to chipping at the corner. I’d rather see a bit of the hardwood and have a more robust edge.
That is the point of raising the bit for the vertical pass. It gives you a little bit of solid wood on the corner to prevent chipping and give it a more robust edge. But it disappears under the round over. @@raymondbunkofske4702
Nice post. I think I will give it a try. I felt your pain when you sanded through the plywood vernier. I've found a way to avoid that. I was doing a bunch of simple edge banding with 1/4" hardwood on the edge of plywood and burning through the outside more often than I care to admit. What I did to fix it was to make sure that the installed hardwood is about 1/32" proud of the plywood. I was using a flush trim bit and all I did was put down 2 layers of tape before I run the trim bit along the edge and when the tape is removed the hardwood is just above the plywood. I believe you did the same thing in your process by designing your hardwood to be slightly proud of the plywood. At this point what I do is to run a pencil mark around the plywood surface where the plywood meets the hardwood. It's very easy because the hardwood sticks up slightly by design and your pencil just runs along the corner. Now, when you sand the plywood, you just sand the hardwood down until the pencil is gone. Then you stop sanding there and move on. Since I've been using this method I've NEVER blown through a vernier since. Give it a try.
Loved it, thanks. One question: You have CA glue and accelerator, why didn’t you use that in the edge miter instead of taping and waiting a couple of hours? One of the tricks I learned a long time ago was to CA my miters and move on. It saves a lot of time.
That is definitely an option, but I just don’t trust CA as a long term glue as much as I trust titebond. But that is really just personal preference. Thank you!
Lock miter works great too. Better with solid wood both top and bottom and face. Ive found plywood cant get as good of a seam especially if the bit has been used a few times. But yea look into a lock miter bit.
Only suggestion I have without trying out is this yet…We all know walls are not straight and for my application it’s a long run. My thoughts are if that applies and you give the plywood a relief cut on the backside would allow for finer adjustments without effecting the structure. Once you know the location you could use a small washer and pencil to scribe the curvature of the wall and it would end in a better fit. With a bit of sanding of course. At least that’s what makes sense and my head and hope I explained the thought process clearly. Now to Amazon to buy the bit. 🍻
I like this video, I also build floating shelves but my method is very elementary. I like this joint and it seems pretty easy to do. Can you show a short video on how to miter both ends of the shelf? I also subscribed to your channel. Thank you! Mike
I take it that went in a corner. You only finished one end. What about the mounting bracket 🤷🏼♂️. I’m definitely curious. I occasionally get requests for floating shelves and have been doing solid shelves with a steel mounting frame with steel dowels and I drill the shelf to slip on the dowels.
Correct, this is a corner shelf. As far as a mounting bracket, you can either buy prefabricated metal brackets or I showed how I make my own in my other floating shelf video. I didn't want to be redundant, so I didn't show it in this video. I just wanted to focus on this new technique.
Yep. I would have just cut a piece for the other side instead of worrying about supports(2) inside supports inside were no different than the mounting so they are a waste of time.
This comment ended up being longer than I planned, so it is going to be “backwards”. The most important part is my question. The rest of the comment not critical. I am extremely impressed with what you have done. I’m fairly certain that you said that the supports on the inside of the shelf could be /should be smaller or not as thick as one would expect. Like they didn’t need to touch both the bottom plywood and the top plywood. If I understood that correctly, would you mind explaining why that is? Because I would have expected that we would want them to touch both pieces of plywood. But you clearly know what you are talking about and what you’re doing, so there must be a reason for this. The only thing I can think of is that solid wood, expands, and contracts and maybe that’s why. But I am very curious. Thank you very much. And now for what would normally be the first part of the comment/question. Awesome video, and awesome technique. It reinforces my belief that we do not need to use top-of-the-line, whatever in every part of something to make something that both looks high end and high quality, and is high end and high quality. This is a philosophy that I have primarily applied to interior design, but this is a great example of how I believe it can apply to almost anything. I am new to Woodworking. It is something I have had an interest in for most of my life, but since being an adult, I have mostly lived in cities where space simply does not allow for having a woodworking shop. I wish I would have heard of a makerspace sooner than I did, but I am grateful that I discovered them a couple of months ago, and even more grateful that Salt Lake City has at least two or three. For anyone who is not familiar with what I makerspace is, I would highly recommend googling the term, especially if you are someone like myself, who, for whatever reason it is not practical to have your own set up. In fact, I’m sure one could make the argument that a makerspace would be a better option than setting up your own shop, for most people. At least the one that I joined is basically like a co-op. The members have 24 hour seven days a week access to a ton of tools and machines in almost every area you can think of. Sorry about the long comment. I am still in the phase of excitement, and really hoping as many people as possible can learn about these places because they are a win win, win for everybody. To be clear, you can still buy your own tools, which I have been doing more than I thought I would. I guess I am a typical guy who gets excited about tools.
Firstly, I want to say thank you for sharing this amazing video! I enjoyed watching it! Secondly, PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR FINGERS ON THE ROUTER TABLE! All it takes is 1 tiny accident, whether your fence wasn't secured or a kickback happens, anything could lead to a disaster. Sorry to be this random negative guy online but i actually enjoyed your video and would like to watch more! so be careful lol.
Thank you and I completely understand. You are not the first to mention that and you are correct. I will definitely be using feather boards in the future 👍
Man I've built floating shelves, i actually wanted to build a new design. I think i will attempt this soon. I'll let you know how it holds up, but i think i will be applying glue on both grooves.
This is actually pretty common, at least for me. That Bosch but I’ve used a ton! Great for if you have some thinner long boards are move a bit and just want to nice straight glue up with trying to do dowels or luxury dominoes. I’ve tried it on 8/4 and 12/4 much harder to deal with that! Basically, the day of milling you have to put them together - or they move on you and I’m not a fan as I like 1-2 days acclimation. I’ve done shelves like this, cabinets, I did a hollow mantle (it was painted so didn’t want to waste so much wood). I’ve done floors with it, just not large areas though as a tongue and groove is more than enough.
Awesome! Sounds like you have a ton of experience with this technique. And it sounds like I can use this bit for applications, which is great. Thanks for sharing 😁
@@EverydayBuilds It is great - but as you said you have to play with it and every time the piece thickness changes you have to commit to it. I think the learning curve on it is a little high because as you flip and run it you run into 'oops that wasn't right direction, crap gotta run the table saw to get a straight edge to do it again...crap I am out of walnut. Crap, 20$ a board foot? Really, I just need like 6 more. Ugh, ok fine!!' lol, the struggle is real.
How did you or would you attach this build to the wall. I'm curious about the preferred mounting for the build. I've seen pipes, 2x4 frames. I like the method. I'm looking to understand the second half of the build, the mount. And what you like doing there
I think the only thing i would have maybe done differently is apply a hardwood veneer to the plywood just to make it look completely like hardwood. It also helps a little come sanding time.
Nice job👍 whats the typical build time using this method per shelf? Also the hose you used for the festool sander, is that festool or 3rd party? If so can you share a link to it? Thanks
Thank you! I either mount them with prefabricated metal brackets or I make my own, which you can see me do in this video here th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
I am fairly new at carpentry, so pardon my ignorance. Why didn’t you apply another strip of walnut to the other side of the shelf? I understand the open part it’s going against the wall with the mounting bracket.
This is almost exactly how production hollow floating shelves are made, though the profile of the bit varies depending on style, one of which uses what looks like crown molding on the sides for a slanted edge and visually slimmer look, slants on the sides means the tooth profile of the lock needs to adjust to the slant; though I'm sure these production units use a molding head on a table saw rather than a router bit. There's a variation of this bit for locking miters that works in the same way, but instead of a cylindrical center it uses a slanted center with a slant to the locking teeth. There's also a similar miter-rabbet profile on a circular saw blade that someone made a number of years ago that Rockler bought out, it's called the miter fold I think, the blade cuts just shy of poking through the veneer layer with the V portion of the cutter and the flat rabbet portion cuts that mating thickness into the same cut, you're supposed to be able to make a five-sided box in four cuts.
Wish I had a router table to try this. One question. Is there a good reason not to use matching solid 1x material on the top and bottom? Or is it just cost? I don't have a table saw and working with large sheets of veneered plywood is a pain.
It's really just a cost thing mostly. If i was going to use 1x for the top and bottom, I might as well just make solid wood shelves at that point. But making them this way with 1x would be a great shelf, just pricey.
When using this type of router bit but keep the same setup, you can tape a split spacer board to each side of your fence and back the part away from the finnish size so your not making such a deep cut in one pass, you will get better results taking a shallow pass the last cut. This can be done like the turret depth stop on a plung router only making the fence the plung surface. I've never done this its just something I think could be handy if your making a lot of part and dont want to keep making setup changes you change the cutting depth with shims on the fence. This would work with most router bits it might even work for a lock miter bit. I want to make shelfs that have constant wood grain on all sides a 6 sided shelf no end grain 5 sides match the grain pattren and I do not mean stright grain. And no end grain showing
Curious as to what mounting hardware you use? Just built my first set of floating shelves, and built a wood internal frame to mount to the wall but not sure if this will be strong enough. My internal dimension is 3/4"
I would highly recommend using at least one feather board on your router table, when running your material through. You really don't want any drifting or flexing for the particular operation you're doing.
Beautiful work but overbuilt. The joinery is great and it's an interesting bit (why not just use a rabbiting?), however, this would massively complicate a shelving job. I can't even imagine doing a bunch of floating shelves like this. In the beginning of the video, your miters being slightly off really isn't a big deal since you'd typically be rounding the edges off a bit anyway and or routing some kind of decorative bevel. I'm far from an expert, but I never leave any totally hard edges on the things I make because it's too easy to damage them.
How well does the edge/sharpness of the bit hold up to running along all the plywood? Some are better than others, but I imagine you'll need carbide edged bits to last a while.
Your video presentation is good but... That's a HUGE amount of work and effort, using a LOT of material! I was a little concerned about your fingers so close to the router bit 😱 The choice of miter saw to ruin the ends was not the best approach (as shown) because of the tearout on the front of the material. You should have used a scrap piece of wood to project the front face. At the end of the video, 16:05, it looks like there is another layer of hardwood. There is a visible join line near the top of the shelf. About 30 years ago my wife wanted floating shelves. My method used 1.25" thick solid wood 6"wide and 8 foot long Drill several holes through the depth of the wood (front to back) These holes are positioned approx .5" from the top surface of the shelf. I drilled "matching" holes in solid brick walls to house masonry anchors. I used .25" threaded rod through the shelf into the masonry anchors, then used two nuts at the outer end of the threaded rod to pull the shelf tight against the wall. These nuts were in a recess created in the front edge of the shelf. The recess was plugged with matching timber plugs. The plugs were virtually invisible and victors could not figure out how the shelves were attached to the wall. Ultimately VERY simple, very effective. With the mounting holes close to the top surface of the wood/shelf, the shelf and anything placed on the shelf created a leverage force between the anchorage point and the lower edge of the shelf keeping it tight against the wall. This is easier to show in pictures than the description above, but I hope you get the idea. Best wishes
Looks good and it's strong. Nicely done.
For commenters. Miter fold and lock router joints are better for none solid wood. This joint requires solid wood face. However it gives options on different corner profiles plus stronger. I leave center supports free until install for left to right adjustments which is especially important on full floating shelving. Also relief at least a 45 or 1/2" x 1/2" out of wall side to scribe tight to wall covering.
My take is it looks great and will last a long time. Hopefully it inspires people to try and make them.
Well said! Thank you!!!
After 45+ yrs as a cabinetmaker miter folding is standard in the industry. In veneer, melamine, laminate, you name it it’s miter folded. Your system with 1/2 ply and solid nose is the method I use for myself at home.
You just gained a big fan. Love the way you break it up and explain this. All of it.
As a teacher (Montréal, Canada), I can tell you you have a very good way of explaining things to make them easy to understand. Keep it up. 👍🏽
Thank you! 😁
Awesome method! If I had a router table I would definitely invest in one of these bits. I hope your business takes off by surprise, cause we need more people like you in this world. As a woodworker myself, I congradulate you on everything you work so hard for. :)
Thanks Matt! Much appreciated!
I have a very similar bit amd have yet to get it to work on a 90 between 2 pieces couldnt figure out the depths.. this video gave me a direction to go to figure it out,,,, thanks. great video
I used to make shelves/mantles this way when I started out. But mitering is the way to go for a happy customer, especially high end homes.
Agreed. No one wants to see the joint where the wood meets and miter folds you can grain match and ... honestly it's a floating shelf...you are putting 1000 pounds of knick knacks on it. I like this guy's video but the design is over engineered for the use case IMO
You aren't putting 1000 pounds
Very curios as I have been talking about and actually starting a floating shelf in my wife's laundry room. Love the way you've done the face with black walnut! Great job!
Thank you!
Thank you for your clear explanation of this floating shelf construction. You have a gift for teaching.
Thank you Deb! 😁 And you’re welcome!
I used a solid piece of wood, drilled two long holes for the supports and 2 tiny holes in the bottom to secure them. This solution has way more options as far as dimensions go so good idea 💡
Awesome, thanks Marco!
Been in a funk with my woodworking last few months. Not sure why but this video fired me up a bit to get back in the game. thanks ! subscribed and liked
I totally get it. Glad I could reignite your passion 🤙
Greetings! As an old, carpenter(builder) for many years, I’m the last of two generations. I’ve worked with a lot of wood (not a wood carpenter).
I must say, you have a beautiful top notch presentation.
I’m grumpy built.😂
Today, I only cut wood for campfire songs 😵💫
All the best to you and may you have many tree rings of Blessings!
I’ll sub. ✌️
Thank you!!! 🙏
You make me feel like I could make these! 😁 This video is so easy to understand, and I love how the real wood edge looks. It’s beautiful!
Thank you!
I w had a brand new glue
Line bite in my cabinet for about 3 months now. I am going to play around with it. I do floating shelves all the time and this is an awesome alternative
To mitered corners. Thanks man
You’re welcome 👍
Jordan, excellent video, great production values, thanks for sharing your mistakes (that’s how we all learn), very effective “tell-then-show” instructional design. Really well done. Thank you so much for taking the time to create this valuable content and share it with us.
You asked how others had done floating shelves. I recently made two 8-foot-long shelves using a similar technique - mahogany plywood top & bottom wrapped with 3/8” solid mahogany on the face and sides, with the grain flowing around mitered corners - but I attached the face and sides to the plywood by using (a lot of) biscuits and glue. My technique was stronger than the folded miters everyone else does, but not nearly as strong as the interlocking glue line profile that you used. If I’m going to make more floating shelves, I will definitely buy that router bit.
Since the shelves were so long, the glue up was challenging. I used a lot of F-style and parallel clamps to hold the long front face on, and I used ratcheting tie downs (like what you’d find in the bed of a pickup truck) linked together and wrapped around the long way to hold the sides on.
After the glue dried and I needed to get the slightly proud hardwood faces flush down with the plywood, I was going to use a flush trim bit in a hand-held router, but I was scared to death I’d tear out the edge of the mahogany and screw everything up. So instead I sanded - and accidentally sanded off some of that thin plywood veneer, just like you did. :)
P.S. I made a jig and routed a channel on the bottom of each shelf to install LED lighting, which came out fantastic, thanks to a video I watched by Spencer Lewis at Insider Carpentry (th-cam.com/video/AAoo_VwqQZc/w-d-xo.html) -- Thank you @Spencer!
8 footers sounds like a tough challenge for sure! But it sounds like you did an awesome job. Spencer is great, I’ve learned a lot from him. Thank you for the great comment 😁
Well done. I typically find myself using a solid single piece of hardwood, but if I could find decent plywood as you had here, I'd certainly use this method.
Solid wood shelves are beautiful though 🙌
Omg, the moment I saw the router bit it made so much sense
😁😁😁
what a beautiful and clean looking shelf! i love that you have the option of using a router to shape the corners, which is tricky/impossible if you used plywood only
Thanks man! 👊
Well done that's how the professionals do it. I know because that's exactly how I do it every single time and I am a cabinet builder. Also a woodworker
Awesome! Good to hear!
Good to see that I'm not the only guy out there that over-engineers the heck out of my projects. About 11 years ago, I made 4 floating shelves out of 12mm mdf, miterfolded the joints, and installed small, built-in halogen spotlights (for cabinet applications). I used thick maple strips for the wall brackets, very similar to your design. Never ever had a problem with anything sagging or splitting. I think what's most important is to think things through in terms of weight on the bracket and minimum/maximum thickness of material topside/underside shelf.
One thing I will say in your defence of a more 'sophisticated' construction is that you're challenging yourself with learning techniques that will help you in other projects where this extra attention to structural integrity is a must. So there's that.
Great work brother, not a thing wrong with this, even though it IS a wee bit overkill 😂 You've got an end result there that no one can argue with.
Thank you!!! 🙌
Young man. You know , what you are doing. Lovely equiipment in your workplace. Big envy. .
Thank you 🙏
I'm surprised hollow floating shelves aren't normally made like this. I feel like this is just how I saw things in my head if I were to build one. It looks so great and is quite simple
Great minds think alike, lol 👊
Thank you 🙏 for sharing…. I love your method…. Must try….
You’re welcome 👍👍👍
Since a set of floating shelves has just been commission by my better half for her bedroom (which she lets me share with her), I found your video just in the nick of time. While I like the idea of using plywood for the top and bottom, I think that the plywood with hardwood facesheets redefine the meaning of thin veneers as they try to use the absolute minimum amount of the expensive wood. As a result, I, like you did, have sanded right through the facesheet and ruined an entire piece that I had put many hours into.
But this year Santa was *_very_* nice to me and brought me a bandsaw (a 14" Rikon 10-326) which can resaw lumber up to about 12" wide and Resaw King blade that is supposed to be the very best for resawing lumber. Besides being able to save money on wood by buy rough lumber and resawing to the specific thickness I want, the reason that I told Santa that I really wanted a big bandsaw like this is that I want to see if I can make "thick" (~1/4") veneer sheets that I can then glue to a high quality, but plain wood, plywood like baltic birch. Besides not worrying so much about sanding through the face sheets, I can make the veneers from not only the same species of wood as the solid wood pieces like the the front and sides on these shelves, but potentially even from the same piece of wood which should go a long way to matching the color and in a few places achieving grain matching to make the illusion of it all being from one solid piece of wood even stronger. Plus with more than half of the wood in the shelves being plywood, I should be able to save even more money on future woodworking projects. Santa says I better be right. This particular toy was waaay more expensive than she had budgeted for gifts for me this year! There was even some muttering about it being more than the budget for the next three Christmases!
Thanks for making this video and wish me luck.
What a great post and concept!! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you! And you’re welcome 🤙
Dude, this has been the most beneficial video I have watched so far in regards to woodworking and building stuff. There is no doubt in my mind that this is a much better technique. Thank you!
Awesome! Thank you! I’m a little confused by your question, because the internal support pieces are glued to the top and bottom pieces of plywood 👍
@@EverydayBuilds I must have misunderstood. I may go in and edit my comment so I don’t look like a complete idiot. Lol. You really did do an awesome job. I was just getting ready to go to bed. I work nights as a nurse. And I was actually reading some of the comments here. It is extremely beneficial to show your “mistakes” (learning opportunities) as well as your successes.
Thank you 🙏 and you don’t look like an idiot, lol. I don’t mind answering questions at all 🤙
I have an idea for shelving, plant shelves, cat trees, etc. I was hesitant to share it with anybody for fear that somebody would steal my idea. But after watching this, I realized that sharing is how we give back to each other, learn from each other, etc. Actually, I’m kind of ashamed of myself. It is an example of a poverty mentality. If you are interested in hearing more about this, please let me know. I think you would have some great ideas on how to do this. I have tried to find out what the poles are called that hold up the shelves. For now we will call in poles. Traditional shelving units have four poles. For the past couple years shelving units with 2 poles that make a 90 degree turn at the top and screw into the wall have been popular. I was thinking that a shelving unit or cattery or whatever with two poles floor to ceiling would be awesome. For the past two or three months, I have taken some steps towards minimalism. One of the concepts or benefits is the less stuff we have, the less we have to take care of. I definitely agree with this, but I don’t plan on taking it to an extreme. However, I remember one video. I watched where the lady has chosen not to have side tables and no rug on the hardwood floor. Her reasoning is that it makes it easier to clean. Obviously one thing is not going to make a huge difference. However, when I clean my place, it’s so small that I have to move stuff from one side of the room to the other side of the room, etc. etc. So here is my idea: having shelves or cat trees or whatever that appear to hang from the ceiling by one pole. This would look great, AND it would make things easier to clean. But to be clear mostly it would look great. I have not thought of a way that the shelves to only have one connection points, so I am thinking that there would be a way to attach one or two of the shelves or parts of the cat tree or whatever shoe a wall obviously in a very strategic fashion, so that it still appears that everything is just hanging by one pole. And then, if whatever it is someone is building happens to be in the middle of a room or too far away from the wall to be able to use the wall than one floor to ceiling pole would still look great. Anyway, if you have any ideas or want to come up with something together, please let me know. I just think this would be such a unique look, and have the benefit of one less thing to have to move to clean under. It would definitely necessitate using high quality materials, maybe even inner metal poles or something
I wanted to let you know I found an example of what I am talking about. I have tried to find examples previously, but no luck (except utility-like shelves in the garage, and they are still traditional in that they have 4 poles). If you google Unica Shelving Ceiling Nomon you will see a great example. It appears that all of their shelves and desks and other furniture in this line, primarily have only one pole or whatever they’re called, but in the case of a desk for instance there are two supports/poles. And they do what I suspected you would have to do, which is attach at least one usually two of the shelves to the wall in a very discreet manner.
it is an amazing method to build floating shelves. keep up the great work! Is there another video which shows how you hang this to the wall? I am trying to see how did you end up hanging to the wall.
Thank you! This video will show you how I hang them 👍
How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
i like that trick just ordered the bit
Awesome! Enjoy!
I like using the plywood because it all matches exactly the grain and color. I’ve never experienced a shelf chipping.
Totally understand and I’m glad you haven’t had any issues 👍
5:25 feather boards can be your friend. Use 2 of them, one on either side of your router bit. 6:38 to make your cuts less stressful on your router, and safer for you, don't go full depth on your first cut, especially with hardwoods. With this bit, make your first cut at about 50%, and then make a second pass at 100% depth, or you can make it even safer by breaking it up into thirds.
Thank you 🙏 I will definitely be using feather boards in the future
This "what not to do" looked very close to "I had an accident..." Safety first is the answer here.
i use green painter's tape on the miters, it has a small amount of "stretch," keeping it from tearing but staying tight
Awesome! Thanks for the tip! 👍
Just subscribed. Even as someone who spends way too much money being a Festool fan boy. I have to say I always chuckle when someone says "I grabbed a piece of walnut out of the scrap pile..." 🤣
Scraps come in all shapes and species, lol 😂
@@EverydayBuilds There I admit to being very envious - here in Germany Walnut is a real luxury, I haven't even seen Walnut veneer plywood at the normal merchants. All types of Birch ply and veneers, some Beech, even some Maple/Poplar, but only Walnut solid, at a price that takes all joy out of woodworking. This post of yours is a real gem, thanks. I'm a mere hobby woodworker, making stuff that can find a place in our house, or my wife explicitly wants, but the knowledge you pass on here is great. Thanks for the post, and also to the many tips posted in the comments!
You’re welcome 😁
Great video, and wonderful instruction. Just wanted to mention, based on the glue joint you showed on the bit, it is possible that your under-table router is a little bit non-square. Could be something else (unsteady feed, etc), but the extra slop is sometimes caused by alignment issues.
Awesome! Thank you for the advice 😁
Box miter bit would be awesome, great joint... depending on how you're going to hang these, cutting the inside supports shorter could allow you to use a wall cleat... there are different ways in mounting these shelves... with more experience you'll figure the best possible way...
Thanks Pete!
This is a good idea.You've taught an old dog a new trick.
Love to hear it! Thank you!
definite improvement. Vast improvement. Nice work.
Thank you Ryan!
Hi, like your design! I noticed you're a fellow Dust-Dog owner. Hope this helps...don't use the hand-crank dilleo. It shortens the life of your filter, use an air nozzle instead. I happened across this info when doing DC modification research.
Thank you! That is a great tip.
Nice. Like the tip about only putting line of glue on the inside part of the joint. It’s the cleanup of the glue on the outside that is usually the cause of sanding through the veneer…even when I think I have done a good job wiping it before it dries.
I hate squeeze out, lol
I like watching your videos and getting the great build tips. You do fantastic work..If I was making these videos (which I'm not) I'd conciser adding in a safety disclaimer and recommend using some type of push blocks..Pushing that face over the router, your fingers are really close to that bit. Someone with little experience using a router table might not be so mindful of the dangers. If that piece of wood grabs or jumps, serious injury is very possible. I didn't read through all the 350 comments to see if already addressed, but hopefully this will help someone. Again, great videos and I get a lot out of them.
You are 100% correct, I should have absolutely been using push blocks. And you are not the first to point that out. Thank you for taking the time to make sure everyone is being safe 🙏
This is an awesome build. I have been doing floating shelves for years and this seems to avoid all the regular problems I have encountered.
My guess is that this shelf will go into a corner. 2 questions...
1. What are you using to mount the shelves?
2. How would you mount an open wall shelf with both sides finished?
I either use prefabricated metal brackets (sheppards brackets) or sometimes I like to make my own 👍
To see how I mount mine, you can check out this video
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
@@EverydayBuilds I saw this one. Do you find that the wood holds up even with no side support from a wall or cabinet?
@@OVHabitatsI have only done the wood supports if I had side wall support. Not sure I would do this method if it had no side support. I might have to test it out.
Great technique but a miter lock bit is even better. Make the top, front and bottom the same thickness and the run top and bottom flat. Before you run the front vertically raise the bit about 1 or 2mm. that will make it sit that amount proud. After glue up and putting a little round over on it the joint will be almost invisible but you will have a little bit of solid wood on the front edge. That way you won't see the bit of of solid wood that you have on the top and bottom surfaces.
You’re correct but it also leaves the veneer very vulnerable to chipping at the corner. I’d rather see a bit of the hardwood and have a more robust edge.
That is the point of raising the bit for the vertical pass. It gives you a little bit of solid wood on the corner to prevent chipping and give it a more robust edge. But it disappears under the round over. @@raymondbunkofske4702
Awesome video.
Thanks
Thanks!
Nice post. I think I will give it a try. I felt your pain when you sanded through the plywood vernier. I've found a way to avoid that. I was doing a bunch of simple edge banding with 1/4" hardwood on the edge of plywood and burning through the outside more often than I care to admit. What I did to fix it was to make sure that the installed hardwood is about 1/32" proud of the plywood. I was using a flush trim bit and all I did was put down 2 layers of tape before I run the trim bit along the edge and when the tape is removed the hardwood is just above the plywood. I believe you did the same thing in your process by designing your hardwood to be slightly proud of the plywood. At this point what I do is to run a pencil mark around the plywood surface where the plywood meets the hardwood. It's very easy because the hardwood sticks up slightly by design and your pencil just runs along the corner. Now, when you sand the plywood, you just sand the hardwood down until the pencil is gone. Then you stop sanding there and move on. Since I've been using this method I've NEVER blown through a vernier since. Give it a try.
Thanks for the great tip! I will definitely be using that 👍
An adjustable clamping jig would be a good idea to create for those shelves.
That’s a great idea, if I was doing any sort of mass production 👍
Loved it, thanks. One question: You have CA glue and accelerator, why didn’t you use that in the edge miter instead of taping and waiting a couple of hours? One of the tricks I learned a long time ago was to CA my miters and move on. It saves a lot of time.
That is definitely an option, but I just don’t trust CA as a long term glue as much as I trust titebond. But that is really just personal preference. Thank you!
@@EverydayBuilds You could use both in the joint two small spots of ca glue, the rest of the joint use titebond. Best of both worlds.
Lock miter works great too. Better with solid wood both top and bottom and face. Ive found plywood cant get as good of a seam especially if the bit has been used a few times. But yea look into a lock miter bit.
Great, thanks!
Only suggestion I have without trying out is this yet…We all know walls are not straight and for my application it’s a long run. My thoughts are if that applies and you give the plywood a relief cut on the backside would allow for finer adjustments without effecting the structure. Once you know the location you could use a small washer and pencil to scribe the curvature of the wall and it would end in a better fit. With a bit of sanding of course.
At least that’s what makes sense and my head and hope I explained the thought process clearly. Now to Amazon to buy the bit. 🍻
You are exactly right and I do that exact thing. I explain it in detail in this video 👇
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=8gSMm9QulW1_U7GH
Very cool idea great job
Thanks Jim!
If you don't like miter fold, also lots of ways to joint the 3/4 plys to the solid nose, I used to use biscuits.
BRILLIANT!!! I have subscribed to what I can learn next. Great channel! 😄
Thank you 🙏
Great video. I saw you are using the Woodpecker Paolini pocket rule. I work for Greg Paolini in NC, the guy who designed that product. 🤘🤘
That’s awesome! Yeah, I love that thing! I actually lost the first one I bought and had to buy a second, lol
Thank you
You’re welcome!
Nice video, thanks. At around minute 9 I do not like how you waste blue painters tape. It is way to expensive.
Lol 🤷🏻♂️
Nicely done !
Thank you!
I like this video, I also build floating shelves but my method is very elementary. I like this joint and it seems pretty easy to do. Can you show a short video on how to miter both ends of the shelf? I also subscribed to your channel. Thank you! Mike
Thank you! If I make a shelf that is mitered on both ends, I will be sure to show you.
Would love to see what fasteners you use to attach the shelf to the wall
This video will help with that 👇
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
Very good stuff…how do you mount it??
Check this video out if you won’t to see how I mount it 👍
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for not saying it's a 'game-changer' lol😉
You’re welcome, lol 😂
I take it that went in a corner. You only finished one end. What about the mounting bracket 🤷🏼♂️. I’m definitely curious. I occasionally get requests for floating shelves and have been doing solid shelves with a steel mounting frame with steel dowels and I drill the shelf to slip on the dowels.
Correct, this is a corner shelf. As far as a mounting bracket, you can either buy prefabricated metal brackets or I showed how I make my own in my other floating shelf video. I didn't want to be redundant, so I didn't show it in this video. I just wanted to focus on this new technique.
How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
Yep. I would have just cut a piece for the other side instead of worrying about supports(2) inside supports inside were no different than the mounting so they are a waste of time.
@@EverydayBuilds thanks 🙏🏻
No concern about width expansion from those interior solid wood supports? I’d be more inclined to use a plywood cut to width.
Happily subscribed! Great video and execution on that shelf! Thanks for the great idea!
Thanks for the sub! 🤙
Great video, love the new idea.
Question: what plywood did you use for the top and bottom? Where did you get it?
Thanks! That is walnut veneer plywood. I sourced it from my local plywood supplier 👍
mitre joint is a mitred joint . mitre fold is a technique used to secure a mitre joint . quality work fella
Thank you 🙏
Looks good. Definitely gives a cleaner look in my opinion. Keep it up and thanks for the video. Subscribed!
Thank you! 🙏
Nice.
Thanks!
This comment ended up being longer than I planned, so it is going to be “backwards”. The most important part is my question. The rest of the comment not critical. I am extremely impressed with what you have done. I’m fairly certain that you said that the supports on the inside of the shelf could be /should be smaller or not as thick as one would expect. Like they didn’t need to touch both the bottom plywood and the top plywood. If I understood that correctly, would you mind explaining why that is? Because I would have expected that we would want them to touch both pieces of plywood. But you clearly know what you are talking about and what you’re doing, so there must be a reason for this. The only thing I can think of is that solid wood, expands, and contracts and maybe that’s why. But I am very curious. Thank you very much. And now for what would normally be the first part of the comment/question. Awesome video, and awesome technique. It reinforces my belief that we do not need to use top-of-the-line, whatever in every part of something to make something that both looks high end and high quality, and is high end and high quality. This is a philosophy that I have primarily applied to interior design, but this is a great example of how I believe it can apply to almost anything. I am new to Woodworking. It is something I have had an interest in for most of my life, but since being an adult, I have mostly lived in cities where space simply does not allow for having a woodworking shop. I wish I would have heard of a makerspace sooner than I did, but I am grateful that I discovered them a couple of months ago, and even more grateful that Salt Lake City has at least two or three. For anyone who is not familiar with what I makerspace is, I would highly recommend googling the term, especially if you are someone like myself, who, for whatever reason it is not practical to have your own set up. In fact, I’m sure one could make the argument that a makerspace would be a better option than setting up your own shop, for most people. At least the one that I joined is basically like a co-op. The members have 24 hour seven days a week access to a ton of tools and machines in almost every area you can think of. Sorry about the long comment. I am still in the phase of excitement, and really hoping as many people as possible can learn about these places because they are a win win, win for everybody. To be clear, you can still buy your own tools, which I have been doing more than I thought I would. I guess I am a typical guy who gets excited about tools.
So, how did you mount the shelf to the wall? Good video.
Check this video out 👇
How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
I love watching you not use the push pads right in the shot while routing....
🤙
*So how are you mounting it to the Wall?*
Check out this video to see how I mount them 👍
How I build floating shelves | NO PLYWOOD MITER FOLDS
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
@@EverydayBuilds
Thanks!!!
Firstly, I want to say thank you for sharing this amazing video! I enjoyed watching it!
Secondly, PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH YOUR FINGERS ON THE ROUTER TABLE! All it takes is 1 tiny accident, whether your fence wasn't secured or a kickback happens, anything could lead to a disaster. Sorry to be this random negative guy online but i actually enjoyed your video and would like to watch more! so be careful lol.
Thank you and I completely understand. You are not the first to mention that and you are correct. I will definitely be using feather boards in the future 👍
Man I've built floating shelves, i actually wanted to build a new design. I think i will attempt this soon. I'll let you know how it holds up, but i think i will be applying glue on both grooves.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes 👍
Wow this is amazing bro thank you 🙏
Thanks Alex!
This is actually pretty common, at least for me. That Bosch but I’ve used a ton! Great for if you have some thinner long boards are move a bit and just want to nice straight glue up with trying to do dowels or luxury dominoes. I’ve tried it on 8/4 and 12/4 much harder to deal with that! Basically, the day of milling you have to put them together - or they move on you and I’m not a fan as I like 1-2 days acclimation.
I’ve done shelves like this, cabinets, I did a hollow mantle (it was painted so didn’t want to waste so much wood). I’ve done floors with it, just not large areas though as a tongue and groove is more than enough.
Awesome! Sounds like you have a ton of experience with this technique. And it sounds like I can use this bit for applications, which is great. Thanks for sharing 😁
@@EverydayBuilds It is great - but as you said you have to play with it and every time the piece thickness changes you have to commit to it. I think the learning curve on it is a little high because as you flip and run it you run into 'oops that wasn't right direction, crap gotta run the table saw to get a straight edge to do it again...crap I am out of walnut. Crap, 20$ a board foot? Really, I just need like 6 more. Ugh, ok fine!!'
lol, the struggle is real.
Haha 😂 I’m familiar with that nightmare
Nice
Thanks!
How did you or would you attach this build to the wall. I'm curious about the preferred mounting for the build. I've seen pipes, 2x4 frames. I like the method. I'm looking to understand the second half of the build, the mount. And what you like doing there
If you want to see how I mount my shelves, check out this video 👇
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
I think the only thing i would have maybe done differently is apply a hardwood veneer to the plywood just to make it look completely like hardwood. It also helps a little come sanding time.
8:46 Instead of counting on tape to keep your joint at 90* place a speed square in the corner to brace it.
Thanks for the video, just a little long I believe
Thanks!
Excellent!
Glad you liked it 👍
Nice job👍 whats the typical build time using this method per shelf? Also the hose you used for the festool sander, is that festool or 3rd party? If so can you share a link to it? Thanks
Once everything is setup, I can build one start to finish in an hour or so. That hose is the stock festool hose that came with my CT15 👍
Oh wow such a good idea. It makes the shelf look so much better than a plywood front. What do you use to attach them to the wall?
Thank you! I either mount them with prefabricated metal brackets or I make my own, which you can see me do in this video here
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
@@EverydayBuilds thanks for the link! That’s a nice fit and excellent on installing on tile too
Thank you 🙏
Great build but you left the part out that all us woodworkers want to see the finish. Hopefully on your next build
Check this video out for that 👇
th-cam.com/video/ToFwny7tDBY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SCKbEMpEG7cTVdAN
I am fairly new at carpentry, so pardon my ignorance. Why didn’t you apply another strip of walnut to the other side of the shelf? I understand the open part it’s going against the wall with the mounting bracket.
This shelf is intended to mounted in a corner. So the back and the one open side, would not be seen 👍
nice
😁
There are router bits that do that same thing but as a mitre. FYI. I have one somewhere....
Yeah, it’s called a miter lock, but my goal is to avoid the mitered corner. And lol, I’m sure it’s somewhere… 😂
A featherboard is your friend on those hardwood pieces.
Completely agree! 👍
This is almost exactly how production hollow floating shelves are made, though the profile of the bit varies depending on style, one of which uses what looks like crown molding on the sides for a slanted edge and visually slimmer look, slants on the sides means the tooth profile of the lock needs to adjust to the slant; though I'm sure these production units use a molding head on a table saw rather than a router bit. There's a variation of this bit for locking miters that works in the same way, but instead of a cylindrical center it uses a slanted center with a slant to the locking teeth. There's also a similar miter-rabbet profile on a circular saw blade that someone made a number of years ago that Rockler bought out, it's called the miter fold I think, the blade cuts just shy of poking through the veneer layer with the V portion of the cutter and the flat rabbet portion cuts that mating thickness into the same cut, you're supposed to be able to make a five-sided box in four cuts.
Good to know! Thank you 🙏
Wish I had a router table to try this. One question. Is there a good reason not to use matching solid 1x material on the top and bottom? Or is it just cost? I don't have a table saw and working with large sheets of veneered plywood is a pain.
It's really just a cost thing mostly. If i was going to use 1x for the top and bottom, I might as well just make solid wood shelves at that point. But making them this way with 1x would be a great shelf, just pricey.
When using this type of router bit but keep the same setup, you can tape a split spacer board to each side of your fence and back the part away from the finnish size so your not making such a deep cut in one pass, you will get better results taking a shallow pass the last cut.
This can be done like the turret depth stop on a plung router only making the fence the plung surface.
I've never done this its just something I think could be handy if your making a lot of part and dont want to keep making setup changes you change the cutting depth with shims on the fence.
This would work with most router bits it might even work for a lock miter bit.
I want to make shelfs that have constant wood grain on all sides a 6 sided shelf no end grain 5 sides match the grain pattren and I do not mean stright grain. And no end grain showing
Great tip! Thank you!
If stability is an issue have you thought of taping another block to the front of it to give more width to rest on?
Definitely an option, thank you 👍
Curious as to what mounting hardware you use? Just built my first set of floating shelves, and built a wood internal frame to mount to the wall but not sure if this will be strong enough. My internal dimension is 3/4"
I would highly recommend using at least one feather board on your router table, when running your material through. You really don't want any drifting or flexing for the particular operation you're doing.
I agree, I definitely should have set one up. I will in the future. Thank you 👍
When building these entrapped by 3 walls (niche) would you assemble in place? As walls are rarely/never square? Thanks
I would build it oversized and then scribe it or create a template to cut it to its final size.
Let me know if you like this technique.
P.S. I’m not sure why I say “hardwood” so weird.
Beautiful work but overbuilt. The joinery is great and it's an interesting bit (why not just use a rabbiting?), however, this would massively complicate a shelving job. I can't even imagine doing a bunch of floating shelves like this. In the beginning of the video, your miters being slightly off really isn't a big deal since you'd typically be rounding the edges off a bit anyway and or routing some kind of decorative bevel. I'm far from an expert, but I never leave any totally hard edges on the things I make because it's too easy to damage them.
Would like to see how this is fitted to the wall.
Check out this video th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
@@EverydayBuilds Thank you.
How well does the edge/sharpness of the bit hold up to running along all the plywood? Some are better than others, but I imagine you'll need carbide edged bits to last a while.
I haven't run too much material through it yet, so I really can't say. I'll let you know once it gets more use.
What did you use to mount your shelf?
Check out this video, I explain it all here 👇
th-cam.com/video/RXYQau202y0/w-d-xo.html
I really hope i can get my boss to let me try this out!!!! White oak miter folds are making me sick lately all the clamps and time taken.
Is it possible to do this with a hand router, or you really need the stability of a router table?
I don’t think I would try it without a router table
Any suggestions on how to do a big mitre on the end to connect a vertical portion? My shelf design is a C shape.
I would think a track saw would be the best way to go 👍
If you're going to go through all the trouble of using a router bit, you might as well use a "lock miter" instead of the bit you're using.
I may be mistaken, but I don’t think a lock miter would give me the same face thickness that I get with my method. Does it create a 45 on both pieces?
Your video presentation is good but... That's a HUGE amount of work and effort, using a LOT of material!
I was a little concerned about your fingers so close to the router bit 😱
The choice of miter saw to ruin the ends was not the best approach (as shown) because of the tearout on the front of the material. You should have used a scrap piece of wood to project the front face.
At the end of the video, 16:05, it looks like there is another layer of hardwood. There is a visible join line near the top of the shelf.
About 30 years ago my wife wanted floating shelves. My method used 1.25" thick solid wood 6"wide and 8 foot long
Drill several holes through the depth of the wood (front to back)
These holes are positioned approx .5" from the top surface of the shelf.
I drilled "matching" holes in solid brick walls to house masonry anchors. I used .25" threaded rod through the shelf into the masonry anchors, then used two nuts at the outer end of the threaded rod to pull the shelf tight against the wall. These nuts were in a recess created in the front edge of the shelf. The recess was plugged with matching timber plugs. The plugs were virtually invisible and victors could not figure out how the shelves were attached to the wall.
Ultimately VERY simple, very effective.
With the mounting holes close to the top surface of the wood/shelf, the shelf and anything placed on the shelf created a leverage force between the anchorage point and the lower edge of the shelf keeping it tight against the wall.
This is easier to show in pictures than the description above, but I hope you get the idea.
Best wishes