First intro to Jim Kibler, about year ago or so. After quite but of considering, yesterday ordered Kibler .58 cal rifle Colonial kit. Have learned quite bit from Kibler, and I’m full time professional gunsmith (modern 1860 - on). There’s lots of great ML gunsmiths and Kibler is one of them. Starting his business involved many challenges, personal sacrifices & not compromising his personal standards. Respect that. Thanks Jim for sharing so much of your hard learned knowledge. Looking forward to the kit and first flintlock
Wow, it's been so long since I've seen a real "guy" do work. No silly gloves taking away his sense of feel, no goggles blurring his vision, no earplugs deadening his ability to hear what's happening, and he even uses his fingers and t-shirt for the final touches. So refreshing. Beautiful job, done exactly right.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. The effort editing and also being filmed while working is not always easy even though you two made it look easy. Very informative and relaxing.
Absolutely amazing, the colours revealed in the stock are superb. A total work of labour and very clever hands, and a touch of Genius! Spectacular concentration..
Absolutely love the rifle, fantastic job! Antiquing the metal is the only way to go. Not sure you’ll remember me but few years back I was the guy calling every other day on the antiquing process... I will forever be indebted to you for the process, the advice, and the bottle you sold me. My rifle turned out better than I expected, everyone who sees it is completely blown away esp on the metal work.
That is my ideal of the American Long Rifle! Too be honest, unless it's the way they are photographed, some patterns look like they could double as a canoe paddle! This has real elegance! 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Would be nice for us first timers if you said what you were using or even thinking when building this gun. You are an excellent gun builder. I hope my SMR turns out this good!
I'm probably going for a hawken myself. One with a shorter barrel like 28". That way I'm not carrying a 6.5' tall staff. They really went nuts back then with the length. The carbine/navy rifles were a massive step forward. Well, I should remember that the older muskets had to double as bayonet spears to defend against heavy cavalry charges. So, in that sense the length _does_ make sense for a war weapon. For a hunting and self defense weapon in the 21st C. though? idk it's got some advantages. .40 cal means you need less lead to fire and and the bullet will likely travel faster. So, that is a definite advantage over all the other offerings out there in the flintlock world.
We recommend Jax Black for a nice patina on the barrel. kiblerslongrifles.com/products/jax-black-darkener-recommended-for-iron-steel-parts?_pos=1&_psq=jax&_ss=e&_v=1.0
You sir are a true craftsman thanks 😊 I saw a video we're you cut wood blanks this summer I'm cutting down a black walnut tree it's about 55 ft. About four ft in diameter could you use it .
Though much of the video was self-explanatory. For a novice Builder it would be helpful to know what you were doing and why. And what materials you used and why. The finished product was beautiful!
I see all your videos and you're pretty good putting all these things together and staining them and making them look really pretty but one question do you shoot them do you go to the range and enjoy these beautiful guns muzzleloaders
I realy like that rifle. I hope sometime I'll can buy mine one. Just want to know how to clean it because the touch hole is not removable. The barrel is not removable too.
Plug the touch hole and fill the barrel with hot soapy water and swab the bore. Once done run a couple dry patch's down the barrel to get the water out. Then run a patch with bore butter down it. Done!
Depends on the stain you are using . Auqua fortis which Jim is using over time could be corrosive to the metal parts . You can use a thin coating of Permalyn sealer for the unstained areas to protect them .
Also, there is no real need to stain the inlets. Wasn't done on originals, it's extra work and as Dan said, it is corrosive over time butted up to the metal.
Extra fancy maple. We don't blue in our shop, but I'm sure you could find some videos online. We recommend Jax Black for a nice patina on the barrel. kiblerslongrifles.com/products/jax-black-darkener-recommended-for-iron-steel-parts?_pos=1&_psq=jax&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Really enjoyed the build... that’s a great product you have right there. As a tool guy, my eye kept coming back to your vise- do you know the type/make/model of it? I also love the simplicity of the adjustable support block you use. Again, great video. You have a new subscriber, and possibly a new customer......
Gorgeous work. Is that Aquafortis that you put on prior to stain? I'm finishing a build of a Hopkin and Allen Underhammer percussion rifle in .32 currently and have wondered if it was worth doing that extra step.
Beautiful work! Did I miss drilling the touch hole? I saw you screw something in the hole and saw it flush. You don’t use a white lighting type? Thanks!
Yes, "Ach du lieber, mein schatz"!! "Wundebar"! Absolutely nothing beats the beauty of a fine "Kentucky style", long rifle, especially a flintlock in Curly Maple!!! The wood on this one is "OUTSTANDINGLY GORGEOUS"! This rifle is so beautifully CLEAN & SIMPLE! NO BRASS anywhere to "corrode" from black powder! My tongue is hangin' on the floor with "LUST"!!! "Flintlock LOVE" (not "Muscrat Love")! This rifle should have had a "toe plate" though, for a little protection for the "vulnerable" bottom tip of the butt end. I'd want one for "my butt"!! Also, a "touch hole liner" is always a very good idea, in case you have to load a touch of powder behind a patched ball without powder behind it, to shoot it out (I've done this more than once from not payin' attention!!!)! This is why GOD gave us hands, to HOLD such beautiful objects as these!!! Amen?! Wish we could have seen more CLOSE UP shots of this rifle. "Gesundheit" und pass da "LUTEFISK" poleaze!!!!!
It's not period accurate. I presume this was built for the museum. You generally don't blue old weapons. If it's your reproduction and you don't care, of course, knock yourself out. But it would be like making a clavichord and then painting it "burned orange". Or tricking out your antique knife by pulling off the ivory grips and installing Dr Scholls soft handles on it and then polishing it to a fine finish to get rid of that pesky patina. Bluing was invented much later and it basically ruins the historic value/dollar value of a weapon unless it is a modern weapon. Again though, I assume this is made for the museum and thus meant to be accurate to the time it was made. Such a weapon should not be blued.
NOT BLUED. It's just a solution that makes it a little grey to take the new look away. Fully aware that bluing isn't period accurate and I didn't do it.
First intro to Jim Kibler, about year ago or so. After quite but of considering, yesterday ordered Kibler .58 cal rifle Colonial kit. Have learned quite bit from Kibler, and I’m full time professional gunsmith (modern 1860 - on). There’s lots of great ML gunsmiths and Kibler is one of them. Starting his business involved many challenges, personal sacrifices & not compromising his personal standards. Respect that. Thanks Jim for sharing so much of your hard learned knowledge. Looking forward to the kit and first flintlock
Thank you, your kind words are greatly appreciated!
That’s some factory building & history. I like to think there were the ghosts of many excellent craftsmen watching you and smiling as you worked.
I appreciate that!
This gentleman is a true craftsman he takes pride in his his work that kit turned out fantastic
Thanks for the kind comment
That sir is not only a rifle to use and enjoy it is also a work of art to be admired .
Wow, it's been so long since I've seen a real "guy" do work. No silly gloves taking away his sense of feel, no goggles blurring his vision, no earplugs deadening his ability to hear what's happening, and he even uses his fingers and t-shirt for the final touches. So refreshing. Beautiful job, done exactly right.
thanks!
Awesome build thank you for putting this together
Jim, that’s excellent! Your workmanship is second to none and thank the good lord for you!🙏👍👍😃
Superb! Thanks for the tranquility as well as the craftsmanship.
Thanks! That's what we were going for!
Awesome...can't wait till I meet my son to start his rifle
Now that is a work of art - a pleasure to watch a craftsman work .Beautiful job ! Best wishes from the United Kingdom .
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. The effort editing and also being filmed while working is not always easy even though you two made it look easy. Very informative and relaxing.
Glad you like it!
Absolutely amazing, the colours revealed in the stock are superb. A total work of labour and very clever hands, and a touch of Genius! Spectacular concentration..
thank you very much.
What a fantastic rifle. Simply beautiful. I hope whoever inherits it will have the brains to take care of it.
We have great customers and I am sure they will pass it on right
@@kiblerjim How much are your rifles?
Really enjoyed watching this, and your other, videos. Your years of experience clearly come through in how you approach each operation.
Absolutely love the rifle, fantastic job! Antiquing the metal is the only way to go. Not sure you’ll remember me but few years back I was the guy calling every other day on the antiquing process... I will forever be indebted to you for the process, the advice, and the bottle you sold me. My rifle turned out better than I expected, everyone who sees it is completely blown away esp on the metal work.
Very nice rifle , really really like the wood ..deep rich finish. Definitely on my windscreen to do now ...
Thanks. I think the stock turned out beautiful. Let us know if we can help you out
Great video!
Art-Work finished with precision ... Congrats
Beautiful workmanship.
Beautiful work and a really fine piece of maple!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Greetings from Croatia !!!
Nice rifle Man.
thanks.
Salut,
It's every time nice to show your technique, realy!...
Message from France
Thanks!
fabulous stock looks great finishes
Very nice, thank you. Waiting for my SMR kit in Cherry to arrive!
Jim is working on it! Thanks for the comment
Amazing craftsmanship
Very nice work that came out beautiful.
Beautiful work
Beautiful piece
You make amazing guns.
thanks.
The furniture is gorgeous!
thanks!
this is crazzy wonderful nice work is a diamond very very beautiful
That is my ideal of the American Long Rifle! Too be honest, unless it's the way they are photographed, some patterns look like they could double as a canoe paddle! This has real elegance!
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks for the nice comment
Great Shot my Friend and Nice Work too ! Stay Blessed .
Would be nice for us first timers if you said what you were using or even thinking when building this gun. You are an excellent gun builder. I hope my SMR turns out this good!
We have other assembly videos. Thanks!
I'm seriously considering getting one of these.
I'm probably going for a hawken myself. One with a shorter barrel like 28". That way I'm not carrying a 6.5' tall staff. They really went nuts back then with the length. The carbine/navy rifles were a massive step forward. Well, I should remember that the older muskets had to double as bayonet spears to defend against heavy cavalry charges. So, in that sense the length _does_ make sense for a war weapon. For a hunting and self defense weapon in the 21st C. though? idk it's got some advantages. .40 cal means you need less lead to fire and and the bullet will likely travel faster. So, that is a definite advantage over all the other offerings out there in the flintlock world.
We would be happy to help you out
I am so saving up to buy one of your kits. Please in the future consider a full stock Hawkins rifle too. Id buy both.
1:13:20 "Good enough I guess" Me: that is the most beautiful thing i've ever seen......
Thanks!
So perfect
Love the flying bug sound.
Have to add one to my birthday list lol. Damn that is one nice rifle
Absolutely beautiful! Could you possibly list the wood and metal materials used in this build?
Beautiful!
Thank you!
that is a thing of beauty
thanks!
Looking forward to building one of these! I need to get a proper workspace setup though. It can be tough when you're in an apartment hahaha!
We have had a number of kitchen table builders. It's possible to do!
i live in mansfield.. cool video.. looks good!
Hello Ohio! Thanks
you're a true craftsman
thanks so much!
Piece of beauty
LOL, loved the use of the two dollar store screwdrivers.
I will buy one of these kits, in .36 caliber, before August or sooner.
Great--we will be happy to get you fixed up
Thats going to be my next kit I build in 36 cal for small game!
Give us a call we will get you fixed up!
@@kiblerjim That I will!! Just have to build the saving up a little.
My mother worked in the office at the Castle for a while.
Do you put anything in just a Browning 4 barrel
We recommend Jax Black for a nice patina on the barrel. kiblerslongrifles.com/products/jax-black-darkener-recommended-for-iron-steel-parts?_pos=1&_psq=jax&_ss=e&_v=1.0
DEAR SIR, YOU ARE THE RARE PERFECTIONIST L NEVER
SEEN KEEP IT UP'
You sir are a true craftsman thanks 😊 I saw a video we're you cut wood blanks this summer I'm cutting down a black walnut tree it's about 55 ft. About four ft in diameter could you use it .
We typically buy the boards in dried lumber form but you never know
Are the stock-finishing chemicals applied with a Scotchbrite pad? I looked through the comments but couldn't find it.
yes, I use scotchbrite quite often but also will use whatever is handy
interesting , I`ve never used a stain after using aqua fortis , just boiled linseed oil ! darkens the wood and really makes the grain pop !
We didn't use an additional stain--that was just the aqua fortis with oil
Which oil was that?
Beautiful! How do you preserve that finish on the wood, especially in something you plan to take to the woods every flintlock season in PA?
Jim uses Permalyn Sealer to protect the wood from the elements. You could also apply a coat of wax for further protection.
What was that stain. It turned out beautiful
Though much of the video was self-explanatory. For a novice Builder it would be helpful to know what you were doing and why. And what materials you used and why. The finished product was beautiful!
Very true--we will work on including that information in the future.
one channel you can find some of this info is "Duelist 1954" on youtube.
Is that tried and true oil varnish
I see all your videos and you're pretty good putting all these things together and staining them and making them look really pretty but one question do you shoot them do you go to the range and enjoy these beautiful guns muzzleloaders
I realy like that rifle. I hope sometime I'll can buy mine one. Just want to know how to clean it because the touch hole is not removable. The barrel is not removable too.
Plug the touch hole and fill the barrel with hot soapy water and swab the bore. Once done run a couple dry patch's down the barrel to get the water out. Then run a patch with bore butter down it. Done!
@@GO_OutDoors Thanks!
Exactly! Thanks for the great answer
Can we get a SMR kit with a little shorter barrel so it will fit in a safe, say 55" OAL ? Thanks.
Maybe down the road
Definitely need a junior version.
I have a question? I have seen people finish rifles on video, some stain the barrel channel and lock mortise and some don't. Witch is best ??????
Depends on the stain you are using . Auqua fortis which Jim is using over time could be corrosive to the metal parts . You can use a thin coating of Permalyn sealer for the unstained areas to protect them .
Also, there is no real need to stain the inlets. Wasn't done on originals, it's extra work and as Dan said, it is corrosive over time butted up to the metal.
What type of maple is used here: maple, fancy maple or extra fancy maple? What do you use to blueing the metal parts?
Extra fancy maple. We don't blue in our shop, but I'm sure you could find some videos online.
We recommend Jax Black for a nice patina on the barrel.
kiblerslongrifles.com/products/jax-black-darkener-recommended-for-iron-steel-parts?_pos=1&_psq=jax&_ss=e&_v=1.0
Is there something wrong with your website because it's impossible to get on it says it's blocked
I checked with the host and they said they fixed it. Not sure if it's working now for you. They said to "clear the cache" if it isn't.
How much for this
Really enjoyed the build... that’s a great product you have right there. As a tool guy, my eye kept coming back to your vise- do you know the type/make/model of it? I also love the simplicity of the adjustable support block you use. Again, great video. You have a new subscriber, and possibly a new customer......
Of France : Very, very nice gun ! What is this wood ? John-Louis
Curly maple, I guess.
Хорошая работа ! Красиво
I was leaning towards the Colonial but this video has me torn again.
One of each!
what was the oil you used on the stock?
Laurel Mountain Forge Permalyn Sealer
Gorgeous work. Is that Aquafortis that you put on prior to stain? I'm finishing a build of a Hopkin and Allen Underhammer percussion rifle in .32 currently and have wondered if it was worth doing that extra step.
Beautiful work Jim, tell me what kind of vice are you using here. Haven't seen any like that before. Thanks.
Nuff Said!...🔥🤘🏻🇺🇸
Thanks!
What caliber is it
I thinkit was a 45
Beautiful work! Did I miss drilling the touch hole? I saw you screw something in the hole and saw it flush. You don’t use a white lighting type? Thanks!
The touch hole came drilled and tapped by the barrel manufacturer. It is white lightning type.
Surprised u didn’t brown the furniture
Is that stain you put on the stock the same iron nitrate you’re selling on your site? Thanks.
Yes! That is our iron nitrate stain
is this rifled or smooth bore?
It's a 45 caliber rifled
Saving my pennies for one of your kits. Have you ever looked into doing an 1819 pattern Hall Rifle?
Great video. What are you using to finish the metal?
www.historichouseparts.com/brass-darkening-solution-8-oz-.html
precioso
What was the "real" time it took to complete this project?
We were in that shop for 2 days, about 7 hours a day
Jim, what were the sizes of wood chisel and drill bits you used? I need to buy some. to do my southern rifle
Very nice, though the originals were browned metal
Wow.
Thanks!
Yes, "Ach du lieber, mein schatz"!! "Wundebar"! Absolutely nothing beats the beauty of a fine "Kentucky style", long rifle, especially a flintlock in Curly Maple!!! The wood on this one is "OUTSTANDINGLY GORGEOUS"! This rifle is so beautifully CLEAN & SIMPLE! NO BRASS anywhere to "corrode" from black powder! My tongue is hangin' on the floor with "LUST"!!! "Flintlock LOVE" (not "Muscrat Love")! This rifle should have had a "toe plate" though, for a little protection for the "vulnerable" bottom tip of the butt end. I'd want one for "my butt"!! Also, a "touch hole liner" is always a very good idea, in case you have to load a touch of powder behind a patched ball without powder behind it, to shoot it out (I've done this more than once from not payin' attention!!!)! This is why GOD gave us hands, to HOLD such beautiful objects as these!!! Amen?! Wish we could have seen more CLOSE UP shots of this rifle. "Gesundheit" und pass da "LUTEFISK" poleaze!!!!!
Thanks, we will work on getting more close ups in future videos
браво.супер.
I will buy the kit here in Germany
We have shipped to Germany a number of times!
SWEET BUILD, LOVE THAT MAPLE! WHAT CALIBER?
problem i see is needs to tell us what 's going on
Sometimes I get tired of hearing myself talk but yeah, I will do that for the next one.
@@kiblerjim thanks
Jim what chemicals did you use on that barrel to get that color? Love the color so I'm super curious.
www.historichouseparts.com/brass-darkening-solution-8-oz-.html
This is the stuff--it says brass but as you can see it does a nice grey on the barrel.
Casino coin (CSC) will be the a global regulated gambling digital coin, and was confirmed to run on the XRP ledger!
A pistol for deer hunting would sell 50cal 15"barral
You cold blued the barrel? After doing such a good job with everything else, I can't believe you cold blued the barrel.
It's not period accurate. I presume this was built for the museum. You generally don't blue old weapons. If it's your reproduction and you don't care, of course, knock yourself out. But it would be like making a clavichord and then painting it "burned orange". Or tricking out your antique knife by pulling off the ivory grips and installing Dr Scholls soft handles on it and then polishing it to a fine finish to get rid of that pesky patina. Bluing was invented much later and it basically ruins the historic value/dollar value of a weapon unless it is a modern weapon. Again though, I assume this is made for the museum and thus meant to be accurate to the time it was made. Such a weapon should not be blued.
NOT BLUED. It's just a solution that makes it a little grey to take the new look away. Fully aware that bluing isn't period accurate and I didn't do it.
@@kiblerjim you know what your doing 👍
Your videos are pure torture as I watch them waiting for my SMR kit to arrive...
Sorry, don't mean to torture!
Could a person with no more skill that a poorly made Pinewood Derby car make one of these kits?
Absolutely, Jim's kits are almost like legos.
You gotta hold your tongue right