Good 2 video series, quiet a nice straightforward build with a nice outcome. I've got a GT Outpost 1993 I've tried to get somewhere, but parts especially 2nd hand - sometimes you can find parts but they're hard picking! But whatever your build it's nice to give something old a new lease of life, especially a steel frame.
I would reverse stem to negative. I prefer more "sporty style" and aero position. You have to buy v-brake sti- shifter adapter to pull correct length of line while braking.
The „small black parts“ are supposed to be mounted from the inner side, not like you did. Doesn‘t make the job easier (you‘d better have three hands), but looks better and makes more sense.
I put exactly the same mudguards on my Temple Adventure Disc and like you i found it such a ridiculous faff! I was annoyed with myself for making such a meal of it so I'm glad someone else had the same experience. I didn't use the rubber gromet things either.
😆 it’s such a relief to hear you say that. It’s annoying because the mudguards that are meant to be easier to fit look rubbish and plasticky. Did you manage to get it sorted in the end?
@@TheSlowworms Yup. they're on now and are OK. Close fit to the tyre on the front but doesn't catch though. Paid about 33% more buying them from Temple. Should have shopped around.
Yeah, the mudguards are terrible to fit also, levers+vbrakes it's a no no, unless you have a tektro levers specifically designed for them, with the normal levers you can use only mini-vbrakes, in that case you need anyway a travel agent if you don't want going crazy, so the use of the cantilevers it's not only good, but necessary if you don't want spent too much, also, mini vbrakes+mudguards it means that you need to cut inside the plastic for make space to cable, you've basically dodgea a bullet, trust me. The only thing that probably I would add in your bike it's an hanger for the front canti. anyway I don't know what should i think about the price brakedown, or you where extremely lucky or me extremely...ehm..unlucky? Basically I did something similar, but the bike I found for the project was at 195£(british eagle touristique), at the time i was thinking that the price was right because all the other prices where 300£ or so and the frame alone 100..but you found something similar (531 reynolds+bosses for vbrakes/calliper) at 40 and not only that, yours seems a CX bike for the tyre clarance, meanwhile mine can fit max 33c. sad ):
I’m glad you said that about the mudguards 😆 Bikes seem to come up at that price quite often where I live so maybe it’s to do with where you live. If you kept the original parts you could always wait until another bike comes up with better tyre clearance, buy that and sell your original bike on.
These videos got me excited to build my own gravel bike instead of buying a new one. £450 is still a really good price, if you'd compare with a brand new one. The only thing I'm not sure of, is doing the whole cassette/chain/gear instalment myself, got any videos on that?
Thank you so much! It’s so much fun, you should definitely do it! No, sorry I haven’t but I’d really recommend videos from RJ the bike guy and Park Took for any instructional videos. Let me know how you get on?
You should do it! It is seriously so much fun. I think it might be as fun as riding it! I’m actually quite liking the chainring size at the moment. I may go a bit bigger if I end up doing some serious long rides on it, like going camping or something. Keep me updated with your build! I’d love to see it 👍
It’s funny you should say that because that’s the thing I’m most unsure about. It’s a really nice seat post but I think you’re right. It needs to be black to match the rest of the components.
No issues with assembly for me th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
This bike has 700c wheels so to be honest he’s probably too small for a bike with 700c wheels. If I were you I’d go to a bike shop and see what they say.
Great job well done ! I have a carrera parva (hybrid bike ) it cost like £275 new, i have Shimano Tourney 2 x 7 (14) speed, i would like to upgrade but havent a clue how or were to start, i would also like to upgrade my tyres to Schwalbe -Racing Ralph - TLE - 27.5 x 2.25 - Addix Speed..which i hope will give me more traction.i never go off road..i use the same cycle route which is pretty intense with most of it being up hill, its horrible riding this bike, no matter how hard you cycle you seem to get nowhere, the only thing thats good about it is the alloy frame and memmory foam seat, gears and v brakes are ok i suppose
Hi Barry, that sounds like a fun project. If you want more gears on the back then you need to make sure you have a cassette, a shifter and a rear derailleur that are all compatible. You need to measure the rear hub body to work out how big of a cassette you can get on the rear hub. There’s plenty of videos on TH-cam on how to do that. That’s a good place to start from. Good luck 👍
Did this conversion on a 26" Specialized rockhopper as well. For me most expensive part was the cockpit brifter etc are over 80 euro so... And for crankset I couldn't find anything around for a 1x less than 60 euro! (with a square tappered BB) Anybody have some recommendation here? At the end I'm around 420€ budget. I think that's what anybody starting a project like that should expect ending at. And considering everything it's not bad! The cheapest gravel bike you can find around would be 600€. So building your own is still a win! (And you get to customise it on the way :p) Just remember things are more expensive when they add up (obviously). But the pleasure of doing it yourself add up too!
I would love a Rockhopper! Yeah, the costs definitely creep up on you. I’m not really sure why second hand shifters are so expensive, I guess they are pretty complicated but it’s still annoying. I REALLY enjoyed building this bike up and I’m desperate to do another one so that’s why my girlfriends getting a bike 😂
@@TheSlowworms still WIP but here ya go :) www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/ld6k9l/wip_for_the_girlfriend_pretty_excited/ Just realized it’s a stumpjumper, same shit :p
Sorry mate, I’m not sure. They’re Mach 1 RJ project wheels though so you might be able to find the specs somewhere. I didn’t have any issues mounting the tires
You could have cut the metal of the mudguards just by using pincers. That's what we did in the shop when I used to work there. Again, nice video, enjoyed it! :)
@@TheSlowworms Yes, I meant V-brakes and this was a typo. I did a short video about an adapter for v-brakes in a "grave" from a trekking build I did. The brakes on this bike can be perfectly modulated, have enough brake pad clearance and plenty of brake force with the low-maintenance of a v-brake. The video I did on the ingenious adapter: th-cam.com/video/YnMrDh2giCY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MaciejZieli%C5%84ski
@@maciejzielinski4033 nice video! The brakes look great. I know v-brakes are better than cantilever brakes but I really like the look of cantilevers on this bike. If they were dangerous I would 100% change them but they’re working fine at the moment. They look cyclocrossey 😄 Thanks for the advice though 🙂
It’s funny you should say that because I’ve been eyeing some of those up, they look so good! My only concern is that they stick out quite far and I’d be worried about catching them. I guess they stick out so far to improve braking leverage though.
@@TheSlowworms I think so, usually a bike would cost more than £40, then to do all the changes you want and it still costs less than the average price of a new gravel bike, that’s good value for money
@@TheSlowworms I've been looking around and there's so many different ones and different brands and prices. Would be cool to see like what can you buy cheap and what you should invest in a bit more. Always nice to hear opinions from actual builders instead of reading anonymous reviews on amazon and such :P
Really enjoyed the series! Do you think putting a drop handlebar on a flat bar bike leads to any changes in geometry that could put the rider at risk? I'm tempted to build a gravel bike the same way you did, but I plan to use it for touring over many days and I'm worried about my back.
That’s a great question! There was a weird period where it seemed to be quite common for bike manufacturers to make a hybrid bike by taking one of their pre-existing drop bar frames, sticking some flats bars on it and putting some cantilever brakes on it. This bike is an example of that. It has the same geometry as the Dawes Galaxy touring bike frame. As hybrid bikes have developed, so has their geometry so now a modern hybrid is different to a drop bar bike. So, in answer to your question: I would recommend changing this bike into a drop bar bike. However, it wouldn’t work so well on every hybrid bike so I’d recommend doing some research on it. Hope that helps and thank you for your kind words! 🙂👍
The problem with the bar tape is a known issue. The Deda Mistral is the bar tape i use on all my bikes, but it is a pain to install because it has no stretch. :D
@@TheSlowworms There are two tricks I found working together to make this fit. First, you need to pull quite strongly while wrapping. Second, you need to plan ahead with the countours of the bars. Start with only overlapping the outer most perforation line, so when you come to the bend, you can still overlap on the outer most perforations on the outer bend while overlapping hard on the inner bend. that way, you get a minimal amount of wrinkles with none that you could actually feel or see without looking for them :D Ive got to say though, that it might be the worst bartape I've ever wrapped apart from some incredibly cheap stuff. Yet, the feel and looks of it when it is installed nicely just make up for it.
I did this several times. The crucial parts are: Finding a (cheap) hybrid frame with SHORT top tube. Most of them are very very loooomg, too long to have a good riding position after converting to drop bars. Then: The cockpit. You need a FITTING bar and stem, tape, and most expensive part: brifters resp. brake levers plus bar end shifters. Any way, this will be the most expensive part, as most probable you will have to purchase new. The rest can be sourced easy and cheap 2nd hand / parts bin. Recently a similar project with a 1990 Peugeot hybrid finished at about 400 Euros, so similar price range as here.
Thanks mate, I really appreciate it 🙂 I may be wrong, but I think you may only be able to get them on the GT Grade bike. I bought mine from eBay. Sorry 😬
Hi, I'm looking for the best tool kit on amazon for the kind of work you've done in these two videos? Do you have any suggestion? I'm in EU. Sorry for bothering you
Ah ok, so you would probably only need something with a chain whip, a cassette removal tool, a bottom bracket removal tool and a crank removal tool. Have you got access to a big spanner or maybe an adjustable spanner?
The guards are right the frame colour straight off works so well.. The 9speed thing is perfect. Get a 28/38/48 ALIVIO front hollowtech crank. 11-40t and a wolf tooth on the cheap Alivio derailleur is fine.
@@TheSlowworms I'm sure. My 1x12 Trek XCaliber8 sucks.. Besides with crosschain.. You use 3-4 gears per chainring up front.. You just have ultra low.. Cruiser and speed demon settings.
Yeah, dremel for the fender-stays, for sure... I've been dreaming of *modular* rear mudguards... where the part under the rack stays, and the bit that extends beyond that can be removed... If you're ever in N. Calif., look up the Bicycle Exchange... think you'll like it... (bikex.org).
Love the videos. The best drop bar bikes are former flat bar bikes and vice-versa. I live in Germany and it’s very popular to convert old steel frame roadies into short flat bar speed bikes for the street. So what do you think... is the 1x setup worth it, given that you need an expensive rear mech+cassette? You can save money of course by buying a half-broken set of shifters, but by the time you make up for it with the really wide range stuff, why not just have 2x?
Thanks Spencer! I really appreciate it. I’d really like to make a drop handler bike into a flat bar bike too! That’s a really good question. With this particular build the shifters are gonna be necessary no matter if it’s 1x, 2x or 3x. I could’ve made the original crank and chain ring work as well. The only additional gear I would need to make it a 1x is the derailleur and cassette which was about £50. Personally I think it’s worth it for the sake of simplifying the setup. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 2x or 3x setup though and if I kept the flat bars then I may have kept it 3x. What would you have done?
I am so relieved you said that! I had all sorts of creases in it as well. The Fizik stuff feels nicer and is much easier to install. It just costs a little bit more
If you missed part 1! 👉 th-cam.com/video/KieSFMsgrpI/w-d-xo.html
For £450 that's a pretty solid bike, now you've got me tempted to do something similar...
Thank you! The costs seem to catch up on me. You should! I can’t recommend it enough, it’s such good fun! Let me know how you get on
@@TheSlowworms bikes are like that..
@@krisp9485 😂 too true
mudguards are looking heaps slick! nice!
That’s good to hear! Thanks Talen! 👍
Good 2 video series, quiet a nice straightforward build with a nice outcome.
I've got a GT Outpost 1993 I've tried to get somewhere, but parts especially 2nd hand - sometimes you can find parts but they're hard picking!
But whatever your build it's nice to give something old a new lease of life, especially a steel frame.
Thanks Andrew! 👍 How’s your build coming along?
I would reverse stem to negative. I prefer more "sporty style" and aero position. You have to buy v-brake sti- shifter adapter to pull correct length of line while braking.
Ah, interesting. You don’t have to, there’s a few work arounds that people have suggested in the comments
The „small black parts“ are supposed to be mounted from the inner side, not like you did. Doesn‘t make the job easier (you‘d better have three hands), but looks better and makes more sense.
Ah yes, somebody else said it stops the nuts from shaking loose too. Thanks 😄
I put exactly the same mudguards on my Temple Adventure Disc and like you i found it such a ridiculous faff! I was annoyed with myself for making such a meal of it so I'm glad someone else had the same experience. I didn't use the rubber gromet things either.
😆 it’s such a relief to hear you say that. It’s annoying because the mudguards that are meant to be easier to fit look rubbish and plasticky. Did you manage to get it sorted in the end?
@@TheSlowworms Yup. they're on now and are OK. Close fit to the tyre on the front but doesn't catch though. Paid about 33% more buying them from Temple. Should have shopped around.
Very cool build. I'm thinking of doing something similar but with a road bike I have
Nice one! What bike is it?
i loved this bike
Thank you so much, I really like how it turned out as well! 😄
Oh god, i also fitted the SKS Bluemels, it really takes forever and has many unsatisfactory steps.
I’m so glad you said that! Someone else just said the same thing 😂 The mudguards that are apparently easier to fit look so rubbish though don’t they?
It was the buzzer for me 🚨🤣
Damn mathematics 😫
I love your bike no doubt…but I love your outfit even more
Thanks! 😄
How do you like those mud guards?
They’re alright, they seem to work but mud guards get on my nerves. They’re the best ones I’ve had, let’s put it that way 😆
Next time check out SKS Speedrocker, way easier to fit ;)
ah ok, thanks Sam 👍
🙌🏼
Thanks Niki! 😊
Old road bike to a single speed would be cool to watch
Yeah, that’s a good idea! Or maybe an old hybrid with drop bars, fat tyres but single speed?
can I use a claris crank for that build instead of a 1x mtb crank?
Of course! Are you thinking of having a 2x?
@@TheSlowworms yup, thanks dude!! 👍
@@simounlouisguevarra6864 let me know how you get on 🤟
Yeah, the mudguards are terrible to fit
also, levers+vbrakes it's a no no, unless you have a tektro levers specifically designed for them, with the normal levers you can use only mini-vbrakes, in that case you need anyway a travel agent if you don't want going crazy, so the use of the cantilevers it's not only good, but necessary if you don't want spent too much, also, mini vbrakes+mudguards it means that you need to cut inside the plastic for make space to cable, you've basically dodgea a bullet, trust me.
The only thing that probably I would add in your bike it's an hanger for the front canti.
anyway
I don't know what should i think about the price brakedown, or you where extremely lucky or me extremely...ehm..unlucky?
Basically I did something similar, but the bike I found for the project was at 195£(british eagle touristique), at the time i was thinking that the price was right because all the other prices where 300£ or so and the frame alone 100..but you found something similar (531 reynolds+bosses for vbrakes/calliper) at 40 and not only that, yours seems a CX bike for the tyre clarance, meanwhile mine can fit max 33c. sad ):
I’m glad you said that about the mudguards 😆
Bikes seem to come up at that price quite often where I live so maybe it’s to do with where you live. If you kept the original parts you could always wait until another bike comes up with better tyre clearance, buy that and sell your original bike on.
The v brakes with travel agents are moneyyy
@@brando1937 you've right, an alternative is use something like the Tektro Brake Lead Pipe, that can ghive you some modularity
@@TheSlowworms aaand it's exactly what i did, just swap the frame the last week ahhaha
Nice one mate, what did you get?
Your brake levers/ hoods are mounted too low, otherwise it looks nice.
Thanks! I think that’s more of a personal preference thing 😆
No way. You should see how vintage bikes have their levers set up. Back in the day they put them halfway down to the drops or more
Love the build. It's just reasonable. Nothing super chique, none of that single speed nonsense and with mud-guards!
Thanks Richie! I’m glad you don’t think it’s too much. It’s a work horse as well. I haven’t had any issues with it yet
Those black "hoods" help prevent the bolt coming loose. That's the only reason I leave them on
Oh god 🤦♂️ you’re right and that makes complete sense. It seems obvious now you’ve said it 😅 Thanks! 👍
What size was the new wheelset you got for the bike??
It’s 700c by I think 13 but I’m not 100% on the width
These videos got me excited to build my own gravel bike instead of buying a new one. £450 is still a really good price, if you'd compare with a brand new one. The only thing I'm not sure of, is doing the whole cassette/chain/gear instalment myself, got any videos on that?
Thank you so much! It’s so much fun, you should definitely do it!
No, sorry I haven’t but I’d really recommend videos from RJ the bike guy and Park Took for any instructional videos.
Let me know how you get on?
Closely fitting mudguards on a bike that may encounter mud and gravel are a no-go.
Are ya still thinking of a bigger chainring for the crank? This was a huge inspiration and I am strongly considering a similar build now...
You should do it! It is seriously so much fun. I think it might be as fun as riding it!
I’m actually quite liking the chainring size at the moment. I may go a bit bigger if I end up doing some serious long rides on it, like going camping or something.
Keep me updated with your build! I’d love to see it 👍
A dremel is your friend. Cut these things without disassembly
Have you done that before? I’m worried they’ll loose there strength if I cut into them
@@TheSlowworms yes! Shorten and then filed it down. Don't cut into the fenders though and you want have a problem
The only thing I would add is a black seatpost just so everything matches. I did something similar with my Bridgestone hybrid and love it!!
It’s funny you should say that because that’s the thing I’m most unsure about. It’s a really nice seat post but I think you’re right. It needs to be black to match the rest of the components.
No issues with assembly for me th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L but I could see where some might benefit from using an experienced bike assembler/mechanic. I'm an older rider starting back after a 10 year break. This bike exceeds my capabilities and has been easy to get comfortable riding. I'm mostly on easy trails with almost no street riding and have not been disappointed with the performance of the bike. My fitness level is far below what I previously rode with and because of that the mileage is going on the bike slowly. While I'm losing weight slowly, the bike seems to tolerate my 220 pounds just fine. The bike has been used by several family members ranging from 5'5" - 5'9".
This bike has 700c wheels so to be honest he’s probably too small for a bike with 700c wheels. If I were you I’d go to a bike shop and see what they say.
Great job well done ! I have a carrera parva (hybrid bike ) it cost like £275 new, i have Shimano Tourney 2 x 7 (14) speed, i would like to upgrade but havent a clue how or were to start, i would also like to upgrade my tyres to Schwalbe -Racing Ralph - TLE - 27.5 x 2.25 - Addix Speed..which i hope will give me more traction.i never go off road..i use the same cycle route which is pretty intense with most of it being up hill, its horrible riding this bike, no matter how hard you cycle you seem to get nowhere, the only thing thats good about it is the alloy frame and memmory foam seat, gears and v brakes are ok i suppose
Hi Barry, that sounds like a fun project. If you want more gears on the back then you need to make sure you have a cassette, a shifter and a rear derailleur that are all compatible. You need to measure the rear hub body to work out how big of a cassette you can get on the rear hub. There’s plenty of videos on TH-cam on how to do that. That’s a good place to start from. Good luck 👍
Did this conversion on a 26" Specialized rockhopper as well. For me most expensive part was the cockpit brifter etc are over 80 euro so... And for crankset I couldn't find anything around for a 1x less than 60 euro! (with a square tappered BB) Anybody have some recommendation here?
At the end I'm around 420€ budget. I think that's what anybody starting a project like that should expect ending at. And considering everything it's not bad! The cheapest gravel bike you can find around would be 600€. So building your own is still a win! (And you get to customise it on the way :p)
Just remember things are more expensive when they add up (obviously). But the pleasure of doing it yourself add up too!
I would love a Rockhopper! Yeah, the costs definitely creep up on you.
I’m not really sure why second hand shifters are so expensive, I guess they are pretty complicated but it’s still annoying.
I REALLY enjoyed building this bike up and I’m desperate to do another one so that’s why my girlfriends getting a bike 😂
Have you got any photos of your build?
@@TheSlowworms still WIP but here ya go :) www.reddit.com/r/xbiking/comments/ld6k9l/wip_for_the_girlfriend_pretty_excited/
Just realized it’s a stumpjumper, same shit :p
Nice job! It looks really smart! I like how someone complimented you on the rug 😆
Math was always a tough subject. Sweet vid! I want a sticker
Hahaha thanks Brian! I can send you some of ya like?
Very interesting video, I was really interested in the cost. Tempted to try it myself!
You should! Let me know how you get on. Please don’t be put off by my final costs. I could’ve saved money in quite a few places 🙂
If you are going to splurge on anything for a bike spend your money on tires, pedals, grips and a saddle.
Not the brakes?
Efficient
Thanks 😄
You need a Basil Portland front rack on that and you're good to go.
ohh yeah, I just googled them and they look nice. Thanks bud 👍
What is the internal width of those wheels and did you have any problem mounting such large tires on them?
Sorry mate, I’m not sure. They’re Mach 1 RJ project wheels though so you might be able to find the specs somewhere. I didn’t have any issues mounting the tires
You could have cut the metal of the mudguards just by using pincers. That's what we did in the shop when I used to work there. Again, nice video, enjoyed it! :)
That’s a good idea! Did they still seem pretty sturdy after you did that? I’m just a bit worried that they’d get a bit floppy 😄
Get those V-brakes man, they're much better than cantilevers when used with an adapter on a build like this!
I don’t think I know what C-brakes are. Did you mean V-brakes?
Vbrakes with problem solvers travel agents are soooo much better than cantilever brakes. I switched my cross bike over and Holy crap its a difference
@@TheSlowworms Yes, I meant V-brakes and this was a typo. I did a short video about an adapter for v-brakes in a "grave" from a trekking build I did. The brakes on this bike can be perfectly modulated, have enough brake pad clearance and plenty of brake force with the low-maintenance of a v-brake. The video I did on the ingenious adapter: th-cam.com/video/YnMrDh2giCY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MaciejZieli%C5%84ski
@@maciejzielinski4033 nice video! The brakes look great.
I know v-brakes are better than cantilever brakes but I really like the look of cantilevers on this bike. If they were dangerous I would 100% change them but they’re working fine at the moment. They look cyclocrossey 😄
Thanks for the advice though 🙂
Get some Tektro CR720 CX Cantis and you're golden. ~£12 x2 won't break the budget either.
It’s funny you should say that because I’ve been eyeing some of those up, they look so good!
My only concern is that they stick out quite far and I’d be worried about catching them. I guess they stick out so far to improve braking leverage though.
👏🔥
Thanks!
Nice, even the wall is painted in celeste!
Do you think it’s the world telling me I need a Bianci?
@@TheSlowworms Indeed! ;-)
I really love these builds and this is another awesome one !
Does someone know of a good frame to look for that has mounting spots for Disc Breaks ?
Thank you very much! I really appreciate it 🙂
No, I don’t know of any. Let me know if you do find one because I’d really like to give it a go
Build up a road focused singlespeed from a vintage steel frame. Bonus for bullhorn or pursuit bars.
Good idea 👍 am I allowed to put brakes on it?
@@TheSlowworms Brakes are up to you. I’m installing on mine because my bike skills suck.
That’s a good amount of stuff for that price! Inspiring for everyone 👌👌
Good value for money do you think?
@@TheSlowworms I think so, usually a bike would cost more than £40, then to do all the changes you want and it still costs less than the average price of a new gravel bike, that’s good value for money
@@TheSlowworms only if it fits. Then - yes. Old Dawes frames are fine quality.
@@martinkrautter8325 good point Martin! I would also like to add that it’s only good value if it has 2 wheels instead of 1
Does this have an aluminum alloy frame?e?
No, it’s chromoly steel
Perhaps make a video or list what tools you need for building a bike
That’s a good idea! Thanks Rodrigo
@@TheSlowworms I've been looking around and there's so many different ones and different brands and prices. Would be cool to see like what can you buy cheap and what you should invest in a bit more. Always nice to hear opinions from actual builders instead of reading anonymous reviews on amazon and such :P
4:49 "Bar tape", grip tape is something different (it's like stick on sandpaper to stop stuff slipping eg on pedals, bottle cages, etc)
😆 yeah I tried to correct myself every time I caught myself getting it wrong. I think I was getting it confused with skateboard grip tape
Really enjoyed the series! Do you think putting a drop handlebar on a flat bar bike leads to any changes in geometry that could put the rider at risk? I'm tempted to build a gravel bike the same way you did, but I plan to use it for touring over many days and I'm worried about my back.
That’s a great question! There was a weird period where it seemed to be quite common for bike manufacturers to make a hybrid bike by taking one of their pre-existing drop bar frames, sticking some flats bars on it and putting some cantilever brakes on it. This bike is an example of that. It has the same geometry as the Dawes Galaxy touring bike frame.
As hybrid bikes have developed, so has their geometry so now a modern hybrid is different to a drop bar bike.
So, in answer to your question: I would recommend changing this bike into a drop bar bike. However, it wouldn’t work so well on every hybrid bike so I’d recommend doing some research on it.
Hope that helps and thank you for your kind words! 🙂👍
@@TheSlowworms Awesome, thanks! 🙂
@@TheSlowworms ah didn't realise it was essentially a galaxy frame. That is a well respected bike
@@lolat330 it’s interesting isn’t it? If you Google 1994 Dawes Catalogue you should see it on there
The problem with the bar tape is a known issue. The Deda Mistral is the bar tape i use on all my bikes, but it is a pain to install because it has no stretch. :D
Ahhh I see, that’s really interesting. So they are purposely not stretchy? Have you got any tips for fitting it?
@@TheSlowworms There are two tricks I found working together to make this fit. First, you need to pull quite strongly while wrapping. Second, you need to plan ahead with the countours of the bars. Start with only overlapping the outer most perforation line, so when you come to the bend, you can still overlap on the outer most perforations on the outer bend while overlapping hard on the inner bend. that way, you get a minimal amount of wrinkles with none that you could actually feel or see without looking for them :D Ive got to say though, that it might be the worst bartape I've ever wrapped apart from some incredibly cheap stuff. Yet, the feel and looks of it when it is installed nicely just make up for it.
@@voxmortis5636 I’ll have to give that a go next time I have some stubborn bar tape. Do you think a heat gun could help?
@@TheSlowworms Hmm, as far as my experience goes, I think a heat gun might be to hot. Maybe a hair dryer would work.
I did this several times. The crucial parts are: Finding a (cheap) hybrid frame with SHORT top tube. Most of them are very very loooomg, too long to have a good riding position after converting to drop bars. Then: The cockpit. You need a FITTING bar and stem, tape, and most expensive part: brifters resp. brake levers plus bar end shifters. Any way, this will be the most expensive part, as most probable you will have to purchase new. The rest can be sourced easy and cheap 2nd hand / parts bin. Recently a similar project with a 1990 Peugeot hybrid finished at about 400 Euros, so similar price range as here.
Sounds like a nice build! Have you got any photos?
Walmart $159.99 hyper Urban
Is that the bike you bought?
@@TheSlowworms yep done over 300 miles on it in 2 states nice bike bad brakes buy the good brake pad too ones come with it are cheep wear out fast
Hi, how fast is it? Could I go on a long ride without thinking about capability and durability of the bike? Could I try a pr on Strava?
It’s pretty fast. I don’t think it’s going to fall apart all of a sudden 🤞You can do anything if you put your mind to it
Well done!! Where can I buy the GT DropTune RS handlebar?? Coudn't find it on the internet. Thanks!
Thanks mate, I really appreciate it 🙂
I may be wrong, but I think you may only be able to get them on the GT Grade bike. I bought mine from eBay. Sorry 😬
Hi, I'm looking for the best tool kit on amazon for the kind of work you've done in these two videos? Do you have any suggestion? I'm in EU.
Sorry for bothering you
I could try but I wouldn’t be able to speak from experience because I haven’t bought tools from Amazon. Do you already have any tools?
No need to apologise by the way! 😆 I like talking bikes 🙂
@@TheSlowworms Thanks a lot. I already have a large set of allen keys and wrenches, lot of screwdrivers and other "basic" tool.
Ah ok, so you would probably only need something with a chain whip, a cassette removal tool, a bottom bracket removal tool and a crank removal tool. Have you got access to a big spanner or maybe an adjustable spanner?
@@TheSlowworms I think the largest spanner that I have is a 18. I should have an adjustable spanne though
a set of bolt cutters would be usefull
What’s that for?
@@TheSlowworms instead of using a hack saw to cut those edges off
It will be cool to ride to the trail head and look at the trail. Then ride back home.....
Yeah, that sounds cool. Hope you have fun 👍
The guards are right the frame colour straight off works so well.. The 9speed thing is perfect. Get a 28/38/48 ALIVIO front hollowtech crank.
11-40t and a wolf tooth on the cheap Alivio derailleur is fine.
Thanks David! I’m not sure I need that many gears for small bike rides but it would be an interesting experiment
@@TheSlowworms I'm sure. My 1x12 Trek XCaliber8 sucks.. Besides with crosschain.. You use 3-4 gears per chainring up front.. You just have ultra low.. Cruiser and speed demon settings.
I like it! It sounds like a challenge. Building a bike with the biggest range gears possible?
@@TheSlowworms just making a bike that will do what my 2009 GF Paragon would do... New bikes suck
Yeah, dremel for the fender-stays, for sure... I've been dreaming of *modular* rear mudguards... where the part under the rack stays, and the bit that extends beyond that can be removed... If you're ever in N. Calif., look up the Bicycle Exchange... think you'll like it... (bikex.org).
Love the videos. The best drop bar bikes are former flat bar bikes and vice-versa. I live in Germany and it’s very popular to convert old steel frame roadies into short flat bar speed bikes for the street.
So what do you think... is the 1x setup worth it, given that you need an expensive rear mech+cassette? You can save money of course by buying a half-broken set of shifters, but by the time you make up for it with the really wide range stuff, why not just have 2x?
Thanks Spencer! I really appreciate it. I’d really like to make a drop handler bike into a flat bar bike too!
That’s a really good question. With this particular build the shifters are gonna be necessary no matter if it’s 1x, 2x or 3x. I could’ve made the original crank and chain ring work as well. The only additional gear I would need to make it a 1x is the derailleur and cassette which was about £50. Personally I think it’s worth it for the sake of simplifying the setup.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 2x or 3x setup though and if I kept the flat bars then I may have kept it 3x.
What would you have done?
What size are the tyres please
Hi Ashley, 700x43mm
Would that fit on a rim with 700x35
@@ashleyclough5240 yeah, as long as the wheel is 700c the tyre will fit
Excellent cheers for the help
Could you have gone 700x48 matey
I have used that deda bar tape and had the exact same problem, I actually tore one I was pulling on it so much. Zero stretch in it
I am so relieved you said that! I had all sorts of creases in it as well. The Fizik stuff feels nicer and is much easier to install. It just costs a little bit more
@@TheSlowworms if I ever have to use it again I'll probably try a hairdryer or blowtorch to see if it stretches a bit when it warm
That’s a flippin good idea! Let me know how it goes if it ever happens