I would never use an impact on spark plug. Because of ceramic. Down inside the valve cover is several sensitive parts to chemicals such as brakecleaner. The camshaft pully,, belt and Orrington on shaft.
Also can upgrade the valve cover to a cast-aluminum and gasket from a gcx engine I believe. I read it on some forum post I believe, need longer mounting bolts along with the cover+gasket.
Well, it's Spring, and I removed my valve cover again and used a Dremel tool with a light sander wheel to get rid of all of the Permatex Red gasket maker residue. I covered the valves and internal parts with a rag to keep 99% of the residue from getting inside the engine. I also was able to pull down the pin with the O-ring on it and remove the O-ring and carefully avoided the pin coming completely out as it goes up through the camshaft I believe. However, there is some residue in the internal parts. What's the best thing to use to flush out the residue in the valve area, like a spray? I wasn't able to tell what was used in the video. Or, is it just best to remove everything, clean all the the parts put them all back in? Yep, have to set timing, adjust valves, and all.
Great way to f-up a aluminum engine. Don't be a hack; put away the impact for re-assembly. That includes the valve covers. How much time did you spend on editing the video but not willing to spend an extra 2 minutes to pull out the torque wrench.
I had an oil leak on my Honda GCV 190 engine (Ryobi Power washer) and assumed it was the valve cover gasket. I purchased a new valve cover and used Permatex Red (high heat) gasket maker. I thought all was good until I noticed more oil dripping, albeit less oil, but still dripping. Now, it looks like I'll need to replace the O-ring on the camshaft pin. Do you have a video on doing this? Wish I had done both at the same time.
With the valve cover off, you can grab the cam pin and pull it down a little. Roll the old o ring off and the new on with a little oil for lube. Line up the flat of the cam pin with the tab on the valve cover and glue it back on. You will not need to retime the engine if you don't remove the pin all the way.
@@LockersGarage Thank you so much as I was thinking about alignment of the cam, while the piston was raised to the top, and using a feeler gauge to set clearance. All of this can be avoided by using your approach. Unfortunately, a few weeks ago I replaced the valve cover, and reformed the gasket with Permatex Red to fix an oil leak, only to notice there is still a minor leak. Wish I’d done it all at the same time!
@@eddude2571 I just did both on mine (Ryobi Pressure washer with GCV190). If this happens again, and I'm sure it's only the o-ring that's leaking, I'd be tempted to try cutting that "tab" off with a dremel so I could change the o-ring without removing the valve cover. 🤔
@@LockersGarage But no seriously. How are you using an impact without stripping threads? I have read some posts online saying they stripped the bolts at 7ft lbs?
@@norge696 Well, for one the factory spec is 14 ft lbs and for two, don't go hog wild on it. Many folks "run" the impact way too long and cause a lot of damage. One could always run it up with the impact and hand tighten it to finish- as you see I do with wheel nuts.
Curious what you charge for a job like this? I am doing the same with a GCV-160 pressure washer engine that is leaking oil from the same spot. Would you quote customer upfront by the job or bill them labor hours after you figure it all out. Sometimes I get into an engine and realize the fix is more complicated, ie takes longer, than originally thought.
I would budget an hour. If you are careful you will not destroy the valve cover but the cleaning phase will take the most time. I would replace the o-ring on the cam pin as well without completely removing the pin. This would avoid having to retime the engine. The oring # is in the description if you don't feel like matching to one at the hardware store.
Nice Job. I have a Pressure Washer with a GCV-160. I can't believe they don't have a gasket for these things. Permatex & Hondabond look like a messy answer. Anyone make their own casket out of cork or use a gasket from a later model?? Thanks!!!
Not sure if missed it but, it should be noted that the gap should be set only when the engine is at top dead center.
Excellent Video, Thanks!
I would never use an impact on spark plug. Because of ceramic. Down inside the valve cover is several sensitive parts to chemicals such as brakecleaner. The camshaft pully,, belt and Orrington on shaft.
Also can upgrade the valve cover to a cast-aluminum and gasket from a gcx engine I believe. I read it on some forum post I believe, need longer mounting bolts along with the cover+gasket.
Well, it's Spring, and I removed my valve cover again and used a Dremel tool with a light sander wheel to get rid of all of the Permatex Red gasket maker residue. I covered the valves and internal parts with a rag to keep 99% of the residue from getting inside the engine. I also was able to pull down the pin with the O-ring on it and remove the O-ring and carefully avoided the pin coming completely out as it goes up through the camshaft I believe. However, there is some residue in the internal parts. What's the best thing to use to flush out the residue in the valve area, like a spray? I wasn't able to tell what was used in the video. Or, is it just best to remove everything, clean all the the parts put them all back in? Yep, have to set timing, adjust valves, and all.
Brake cleaner, carefully
Great way to f-up a aluminum engine. Don't be a hack; put away the impact for re-assembly. That includes the valve covers. How much time did you spend on editing the video but not willing to spend an extra 2 minutes to pull out the torque wrench.
Is there a delay time on right stuff before starting engine?
I had an oil leak on my Honda GCV 190 engine (Ryobi Power washer) and assumed it was the valve cover gasket. I purchased a new valve cover and used Permatex Red (high heat) gasket maker. I thought all was good until I noticed more oil dripping, albeit less oil, but still dripping. Now, it looks like I'll need to replace the O-ring on the camshaft pin. Do you have a video on doing this? Wish I had done both at the same time.
With the valve cover off, you can grab the cam pin and pull it down a little. Roll the old o ring off and the new on with a little oil for lube. Line up the flat of the cam pin with the tab on the valve cover and glue it back on. You will not need to retime the engine if you don't remove the pin all the way.
@@LockersGarage
Thank you so much as I was thinking about alignment of the cam, while the piston was raised to the top, and using a feeler gauge to set clearance. All of this can be avoided by using your approach. Unfortunately, a few weeks ago I replaced the valve cover, and reformed the gasket with Permatex Red to fix an oil leak, only to notice there is still a minor leak. Wish I’d done it all at the same time!
@@eddude2571 I just did both on mine (Ryobi Pressure washer with GCV190). If this happens again, and I'm sure it's only the o-ring that's leaking, I'd be tempted to try cutting that "tab" off with a dremel so I could change the o-ring without removing the valve cover. 🤔
@@matte-303
Hi Matt,
Thank you for the suggestion. I’ve not tussled with this yet, but will pick it up in the Spring.
Same here. Honda Dealer wants $85 just for diagnosis.
Whew. Using an impact on the spark plug. That's a first for me.
LOL
@@LockersGarage But no seriously. How are you using an impact without stripping threads? I have read some posts online saying they stripped the bolts at 7ft lbs?
@@norge696 Well, for one the factory spec is 14 ft lbs and for two, don't go hog wild on it. Many folks "run" the impact way too long and cause a lot of damage.
One could always run it up with the impact and hand tighten it to finish- as you see I do with wheel nuts.
@@LockersGarage how many ft Lbs is your impact set for? how do you know that its not 50 ft lbs? or 100 ft lbs?
Curious what you charge for a job like this? I am doing the same with a GCV-160 pressure washer engine that is leaking oil from the same spot. Would you quote customer upfront by the job or bill them labor hours after you figure it all out. Sometimes I get into an engine and realize the fix is more complicated, ie takes longer, than originally thought.
I would budget an hour. If you are careful you will not destroy the valve cover but the cleaning phase will take the most time. I would replace the o-ring on the cam pin as well without completely removing the pin. This would avoid having to retime the engine. The oring # is in the description if you don't feel like matching to one at the hardware store.
Nice Job. I have a Pressure Washer with a GCV-160. I can't believe they don't have a gasket for these things. Permatex & Hondabond look like a messy answer. Anyone make their own casket out of cork or use a gasket from a later model?? Thanks!!!
I think there is a gasket now - from the GSV series. I don't know if it fits the GCV cover though.
It is not 7hp
Apparently it's 5.1