I do believe I can make a few of those without a lathe, and with my simple home tools! I even have 2 different sizes of T-pipe to start! Thank you for your tips and tricks!
I love this! I think using the t-fitting is genius. I’m really happy you showed how to make a thread cutting tool in more than one way. I will definitely be trying this!
Awesome! I knew I wasn't the first to think to use a t-pipe to make a hammer, came to me as I was lying in bed. I want to make one with rubber faces(preferably a soft and a hard) as that's what is common in a machine shop. I have access to lathes with threading capabilities, so I can make real threads on the wooden handle and/or the rubber parts, but I'm amazed that your homemade tool worked like that! I'll definitely mention that to my classmates. I got three sizes to experiment with. Very nice work!
Very cool I made tapered one like yours for my leather tools for stamping cocobolo with the brass tee was nice touch I’m going to put leather on ends of caps thanks for sharing
Hi Tim, another great project, I like the way you used and worked the materials. Just one thing I have a different understanding from your definition of the dead blow mallet. The point of the bbs in the head - which are what make it 'dead blow' - is that the mallet will not bounce when you strike a blow. You are correct in saying that the wood of a mallet is sacrificial and protects a vulnerable material but the dead blow aspect relates to damping the potential for bounce. It's still a coo, project though and could be scaled up with bigger plumbing fittings if you need to do some serious persuading!
Exactly what I was thinking. The "dead-blow" aspect of the mallet is from the chamber being filled from 50-80% filled with moving weights in this case bb's (in fact in the video he might have over filled the head) . With a standard mallet, the head strikes a surface with force and bounces off the striking surface, this is lost energy. In a deadblow, the BB's rise up when you bring the mallet up, and when you strike down, the head hits the surface with force, it starts to bounce back, but within milliseconds the BB's travel with inertia of the swing from the back of the mallet to the head, hitting the head from the inside, transferring force back into the head putting force back into the striking surface. The mallet basically hits and doesn't bounce, because it cancels out the recoil, and transfers more force. I might be wrong, but thats what I think happens off the top of my head.
I'm willing to bet that this would go a long way toward perfect if you chased those dremel cuts on that skew with a triangle file. As always, fantastic project!.
I just watched another woodworker from Japan make the same type of deadblow hammer using a brass T just 2 nights ago. He went about cutting threads the same as you with cutting "V" grooves into the T. I like your idea better though using a separate 3/4" fitting to cut threads with. Now you have a "die" for cutting threads if you want to make more mallets. May I ask why you didn't use the same threading method for the handle part instead of making a chasing tool? I'm curious because I love tinkering with metal as well as wood and making diy tools like this mallet for gifts to my family and friends who would have a use for them. I don't have a metal lathe, yet, so I do thing all by hand. Going through old, early books about tools and machines I picked up in a thrift shop helps a lot with that process. It has very detailed illustrations on the parts to those tools and I make as much as I can. The rest of the parts come from period materials I pickup at flea markets, auctions, especially European auctions for old parts or tools that I can take parts from. I am in the process of turning my garage into a metalshop where I have already been using for welding. I would love to have both wood & metal hobbies under one roof but the garage is not big enough for the two hobbies. I wish now that when I built my woodworking shop as a retirement gift to myself, that I had built a larger building, but my back yard just isn't large enough for that kind of footprint. I even found an old metal box full of old machine parts, brass screws washers and square nuts, that stood the test of time when I was bottle digging!! After much cleaning, some of those parts and hardware, like bronze gears I repurposed into the tools and machines i have built. Sometimes you just got to be creative and resourceful!! I wish that find was not a one off. I would go antique bottle digging more often if that kind of find was a usually thing, lol. Thanks for your great tips in this video. I will be using them in my future creations!!!
Que excelente trabajo queda muy elegante admiro su trabajo me gustaría saber con que pule la madera ya que aca en mi país Costa Rica no existen mucho sobre esto podría usted asesorarme que productos puedo utilizar
Hello Tim, started this project and finished the handle...kinda...and now am working on the heads. Can you tell me what jaws you are using as the jaws on Nova I just bought won't work with the pipe fitting. Phil
Question, you used two methods to get the male threads. When making the handle could you have used the same method you used for the mallet heads instead of making a thread chaser??
This video is so much better than your Christmas series. I actually learned something from this. Just curious why you did not use a harder wood for the striking surface, like purpleheart?
Are dremels tools for lefties? I noticed you had the same problem I have when I have to resort to the dremel. ..all the sparks and debris is directed right at my face when I'm using it in a way that feels comfortable and natural to me. Nice video. Excellent job as usual. I like the crazy glue finish..
woodturningwithtim1 lol.. yea, maybe that's where all the real profits are coming from. I eventually picked up a foredom. They have forward and reverse mode. The only thing is if using a bit with directional teeth, gotta use the arbor mounted type so it can be installed upside down. Thanks for your reply. Thanks for sharing all your projects like you do. You were part of my Sunday morning lineup on PBS..
Nolan Tyrrell how about when those micro threads of the arbor screw scrape off some abrasive from the grinding disc you're trying to mount , then it jams a breaks off in the arbor... also, I've had my chuck spin open and bits vibtare loose
ANyone got an idea on how well alumilite might work for making the heads? I imagine they would hold up a bit better than wood but still have enough give to perform its required job. I'm just unsure if it the epoxy is prone to shattering rather than indenting.
It should from what I've seen. Curtis Seebeck (he brought Alumilite to the turning community) handed me an Alumilite pen blank in his shop some years ago and told me to throw it against the concrete floor. I did and it bounced all the way to the ceiling (at least 14 feet) and back down. Not so much as a scratch on it! I quit using PR after that.
Did u polish ur brass tee fitting to make it shiny? All the fittings that I have found have a rough matte type appearance. They would function fine but don't look near as sharp as shiny polished brass.
Heya Tim, I love your videos, and have learned a lot! I tried turning a small walnut cup today, and I had a problem I have had before with hickory, I could cut the outside shape just fine, but when I move to try to cut out the middle (hallow it out) I can not seem to get wood to move to save my life! Is there a trick to getting this to work? Is cutting the inside of a cup that different form the outside? I tried several gouges but no luck! It is still sitting on my lathe half finished!
You might try boring a hole to depth with a good sized drill bit--- perhaps Forstner -- and then use square carbide cutter to get to the size you want. Then a very sharp scraper very lightly to get it smooth enough to finish sand it. Good Luck! I have found that the bowl gouges-- if you use them -- have to be exceedingly sharp!
I made mine and got the carbide bits from eddie castelin. He has a really great buy on them. If you are making a square bit tool then I suggest that you use a solid square bar to mount it on. Lot of good videos on how to make your own and save a ton! Good Luck!
Hey Tim...been a fan for years now! love your stuff. Quick question: Were you just showing us two ways for threads or was there a reason for the two methods as far as which one was more beneficial for the two? Which way do you prefer or think is stronger?
I like the home made threading tool. I figured that not everyone could make one so I showed the pipe thread cutter because it is easier to make...just much harder to cut the threads because it is a brute force thing.
The threads with the tool I made were much better threads. They were deep and well formed. the pipe cutter made slices but they made for a tight fit. I really haven't whacked anything with the hammer yet so time will tell.
That wasn't the best. It looked great, but the threads were poorly done. Especially by someone who knows what they're doing with all those tools at hand. ... Hold my beer..
I want to watch all of Tim’s videos but I always end up falling asleep I guess his voice is just very soothing haha
personally when stressed out or in need of something to take my mind off troubles, a marathon of tims woodturning videos - best medicine.
I was mesmerized by this project.......as a non-turner I'm in awe of you who are!. Thank you!
I do believe I can make a few of those without a lathe, and with my simple home tools! I even have 2 different sizes of T-pipe to start!
Thank you for your tips and tricks!
I was thinking of turning projects and you must have read my mind. Well done. Great job.
I love this! I think using the t-fitting is genius. I’m really happy you showed how to make a thread cutting tool in more than one way. I will definitely be trying this!
Nice idea and good looking. Thanks for showing how to get threads without a threading tool. Thanks
Great project. It's time for a new dead blow for me, and I really like this one. Thanks for sharing.
Really enjoyed the work you put into this project. Beautiful contrast of the Cocobolo & Brass Tee.
Awesome! I knew I wasn't the first to think to use a t-pipe to make a hammer, came to me as I was lying in bed. I want to make one with rubber faces(preferably a soft and a hard) as that's what is common in a machine shop. I have access to lathes with threading capabilities, so I can make real threads on the wooden handle and/or the rubber parts, but I'm amazed that your homemade tool worked like that! I'll definitely mention that to my classmates. I got three sizes to experiment with. Very nice work!
Fantastic!! A very interesting and educational video. Thank you Tim. Phil
Great video, Tim!
Another great project Tim! Keep em comin!
that wood lathe is silent I love it
Very cool I made tapered one like yours for my leather tools for stamping cocobolo with the brass tee was nice touch I’m going to put leather on ends of caps thanks for sharing
Always enjoy watching your videos tim keepup the good work
Hi Tim, another great project, I like the way you used and worked the materials. Just one thing I have a different understanding from your definition of the dead blow mallet. The point of the bbs in the head - which are what make it 'dead blow' - is that the mallet will not bounce when you strike a blow. You are correct in saying that the wood of a mallet is sacrificial and protects a vulnerable material but the dead blow aspect relates to damping the potential for bounce. It's still a coo, project though and could be scaled up with bigger plumbing fittings if you need to do some serious persuading!
Exactly what I was thinking. The "dead-blow" aspect of the mallet is from the chamber being filled from 50-80% filled with moving weights in this case bb's (in fact in the video he might have over filled the head) . With a standard mallet, the head strikes a surface with force and bounces off the striking surface, this is lost energy. In a deadblow, the BB's rise up when you bring the mallet up, and when you strike down, the head hits the surface with force, it starts to bounce back, but within milliseconds the BB's travel with inertia of the swing from the back of the mallet to the head, hitting the head from the inside, transferring force back into the head putting force back into the striking surface. The mallet basically hits and doesn't bounce, because it cancels out the recoil, and transfers more force. I might be wrong, but thats what I think happens off the top of my head.
Very cool Tim!
Ok, now that is cool. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Very nice! I think I will give this a shot.
Great video Tim - Knockout!
I'm willing to bet that this would go a long way toward perfect if you chased those dremel cuts on that skew with a triangle file. As always, fantastic project!.
nice job Tim, I appreciate the good tips
Love your vids. Fantastic presentation and very interesting projects.
I just watched another woodworker from Japan make the same type of deadblow hammer using a brass T just 2 nights ago. He went about cutting threads the same as you with cutting "V" grooves into the T. I like your idea better though using a separate 3/4" fitting to cut threads with. Now you have a "die" for cutting threads if you want to make more mallets. May I ask why you didn't use the same threading method for the handle part instead of making a chasing tool? I'm curious because I love tinkering with metal as well as wood and making diy tools like this mallet for gifts to my family and friends who would have a use for them. I don't have a metal lathe, yet, so I do thing all by hand. Going through old, early books about tools and machines I picked up in a thrift shop helps a lot with that process. It has very detailed illustrations on the parts to those tools and I make as much as I can. The rest of the parts come from period materials I pickup at flea markets, auctions, especially European auctions for old parts or tools that I can take parts from. I am in the process of turning my garage into a metalshop where I have already been using for welding. I would love to have both wood & metal hobbies under one roof but the garage is not big enough for the two hobbies. I wish now that when I built my woodworking shop as a retirement gift to myself, that I had built a larger building, but my back yard just isn't large enough for that kind of footprint. I even found an old metal box full of old machine parts, brass screws washers and square nuts, that stood the test of time when I was bottle digging!! After much cleaning, some of those parts and hardware, like
bronze gears I repurposed into the tools and machines i have built. Sometimes you just got to be creative and resourceful!! I wish that find was not a one off. I would go antique bottle digging more often if that kind of find was a usually thing, lol.
Thanks for your great tips in this video. I will be using them in my future creations!!!
Now that's cool right there! 👌😍💯
nice one Tim! I like this project
Cool project HOPE this works whit Rawleather too 🤞🏽
This is a really cool idea!
Great project. Thanks for sharing.
Awesomeness!!👍👌👏👏
Wow, they look good
Tim why not use a hand pipe threader? local big box store would sell it.
Great mastery.
Wish I could afford the scout. Looks like I’m going to have to go with Delta 46-460
Belo trabalho Parabéns
Que excelente trabajo queda muy elegante admiro su trabajo me gustaría saber con que pule la madera ya que aca en mi país Costa Rica no existen mucho sobre esto podría usted asesorarme que productos puedo utilizar
Thank you.
Hello Tim, started this project and finished the handle...kinda...and now am working on the heads. Can you tell me what jaws you are using as the jaws on Nova I just bought won't work with the pipe fitting. Phil
Great idea!! Love u crazy laugh u make
It's like deja vu.
Got the threads going the right way in this edit LOL.
And boy did it work a whole lot better! Thanks again Barry! 👍
Question, you used two methods to get the male threads. When making the handle could you have used the same method you used for the mallet heads instead of making a thread chaser??
I dig it!
I love the smell of cocobolo when it's turned.
This video is so much better than your Christmas series. I actually learned something from this. Just curious why you did not use a harder wood for the striking surface, like purpleheart?
I did use purpleheart...🙄
dang, I got to November last year before making a mistake.
LOL you made it longer than me! I made it till January 2nd 🤕
What is the best wood to use, especially for the heads?
How do you know it will cause a fire I would like to know
Nice - looks great. One question - are you going to have a Robust giveaway when you hit 100k subscribers?
Are dremels tools for lefties? I noticed you had the same problem I have when I have to resort to the dremel. ..all the sparks and debris is directed right at my face when I'm using it in a way that feels comfortable and natural to me. Nice video. Excellent job as usual. I like the crazy glue finish..
Interesting thought...I wonder if Dremil is listening. They probably have stock in safety glasses 😎
woodturningwithtim1 lol.. yea, maybe that's where all the real profits are coming from. I eventually picked up a foredom. They have forward and reverse mode. The only thing is if using a bit with directional teeth, gotta use the arbor mounted type so it can be installed upside down. Thanks for your reply. Thanks for sharing all your projects like you do. You were part of my Sunday morning lineup on PBS..
And the right handed thread on the blade undoes itself. :-)
Nolan Tyrrell how about when those micro threads of the arbor screw scrape off some abrasive from the grinding disc you're trying to mount , then it jams a breaks off in the arbor... also, I've had my chuck spin open and bits vibtare loose
Lucky they're cheap.
ANyone got an idea on how well alumilite might work for making the heads? I imagine they would hold up a bit better than wood but still have enough give to perform its required job. I'm just unsure if it the epoxy is prone to shattering rather than indenting.
It should from what I've seen. Curtis Seebeck (he brought Alumilite to the turning community) handed me an Alumilite pen blank in his shop some years ago and told me to throw it against the concrete floor. I did and it bounced all the way to the ceiling (at least 14 feet) and back down. Not so much as a scratch on it! I quit using PR after that.
Good to know, thanks Bill!
Did u polish ur brass tee fitting to make it shiny? All the fittings that I have found have a rough matte type appearance. They would function fine but don't look near as sharp as shiny polished brass.
I lucked out and found one at Lowes even though online they said it wasn't at the store.
Thanks for the reply, I'll look at my local store... been to HD, Menards, and the local mom and pop but skipped Lowes
Heya Tim, I love your videos, and have learned a lot! I tried turning a small walnut cup today, and I had a problem I have had before with hickory, I could cut the outside shape just fine, but when I move to try to cut out the middle (hallow it out) I can not seem to get wood to move to save my life! Is there a trick to getting this to work? Is cutting the inside of a cup that different form the outside? I tried several gouges but no luck! It is still sitting on my lathe half finished!
You might try boring a hole to depth with a good sized drill bit--- perhaps Forstner -- and then use square carbide cutter to get to the size you want. Then a very sharp scraper very lightly to get it smooth enough to finish sand it. Good Luck! I have found that the bowl gouges-- if you use them -- have to be exceedingly sharp!
Terry thanks! May need to invest is some carbide tools...
I made mine and got the carbide bits from eddie castelin. He has a really great buy on them. If you are making a square bit tool then I suggest that you use a solid square bar to mount it on. Lot of good videos on how to make your own and save a ton! Good Luck!
Terry is right on with drilling the center out. Then you are cutting side grain instead of end grain which is very tough.
awesome! Thanks! I'll give it a try,
Hey Tim...been a fan for years now! love your stuff. Quick question: Were you just showing us two ways for threads or was there a reason for the two methods as far as which one was more beneficial for the two? Which way do you prefer or think is stronger?
I like the home made threading tool. I figured that not everyone could make one so I showed the pipe thread cutter because it is easier to make...just much harder to cut the threads because it is a brute force thing.
Gotcha!! Was there a difference in strength you think? Thank you for getting back to me..I feel like Im talking to a celebrity ha ha!
The threads with the tool I made were much better threads. They were deep and well formed. the pipe cutter made slices but they made for a tight fit. I really haven't whacked anything with the hammer yet so time will tell.
woodturningwithtim1 awesome. Thank you so much for showing us both!
Feels like I got hit by a dead-blow mallet. I'm seeing double videos lol
It's not just shavings you need to watch, a couple paper towels can fill a surprisingly large area with smoke...
Super
Why you always skip rounding wood and you tell us you didn't want us to get bored?? Watching wood getting rounded is my favorite part!! :(
That wasn't the best. It looked great, but the threads were poorly done. Especially by someone who knows what they're doing with all those tools at hand. ... Hold my beer..