For my paper backed veneer, applying glue only to the substrate worked great! There are other vids that show PVA applied to both the veneer and the substrate. It results were not very good. For me this method worked perfectly.
Okay so if we opt for the household iron technique what glue can you recommend that will be set by the heat or any PVA glue will work? You kind of jumped to using an iron not specifying if PVA is appropriate or if we need a specific glue?
I recently came across an old Lane cedar chest that I am trying to veneer. Unfortunately the old finish is not salvageable. I have sanded and patched all the holes from the old drawer knobs. I purchased Teak veneer that is about 10 mil thick. What is the best to way to apply it, contact cement or veneer glue? Any suggestions on a brand of contact cement or glue to use?
We would need to know more information on the project to give you the best recommendation on application. Feel free to call us at 248-720-0288 or email us at info@oakwoodveneer.com.
Hello! With PVA the necessary glue line on MDF is approximately 6 mils so basically one thin coat. With porous board like particle board and plywood the board itself will absorb some of the glue in the face of the substrate so an additional coat will ride the surface better and allow for a sufficient glue line. With too much glue it does a few things. It will extend the time it needs to be in the press to assure the glue is indeed dry and set. It will create an excessive amount of squeeze out and make a mess. It is wasteful, remember you only need 6 mils of glue to create a good bond. And lastly too much PVA can have a similar effect as contact cement as it will too be overly flexible depending on the type of PVA your using.
If I were to use PVA glue to apply veneer to an MDF box where some sides of the box will have the exposed edge of the MDF, do those exposed edges need to be treated? I have heard mentioned that the edges can be "thirsty" for glue. If I do need to treat them, would a few coats of a thinned lacquer work or is that asking for trouble? Thanks for putting these videos together, very helpful!!
Midnight Conversations I'm not sure what you mean by "old veneer". Is it unfinished veneer that's just been laying around, or is it something on an existing piece that's de-laminating and already has a finish on it? If the latter, then I don't think the veneer softener will work over an existing finish.
@@edgartorres7283 What exactly are you trying to do to the guitar? Application can be very specific to each project so providing some detail would be the best way to advise you how to approach this.
@@edgartorres7283 This is an instance where we would not recommend using wood veneer. There are too many variables that could happen to cause bubbling and rippling along with trying to get a perfect fit around the space on the guitar and factoring in the neck you would have to maneuver around.
For my paper backed veneer, applying glue only to the substrate worked great!
There are other vids that show PVA applied to both the veneer and the substrate.
It results were not very good.
For me this method worked perfectly.
This was so helpful. Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
Does this method work in curved subtrates?
Okay so if we opt for the household iron technique what glue can you recommend that will be set by the heat or any PVA glue will work? You kind of jumped to using an iron not specifying if PVA is appropriate or if we need a specific glue?
I recently came across an old Lane cedar chest that I am trying to veneer. Unfortunately the old finish is not salvageable. I have sanded and patched all the holes from the old drawer knobs. I purchased Teak veneer that is about 10 mil thick. What is the best to way to apply it, contact cement or veneer glue? Any suggestions on a brand of contact cement or glue to use?
We would need to know more information on the project to give you the best recommendation on application. Feel free to call us at 248-720-0288 or email us at info@oakwoodveneer.com.
Excuse my english. How long do u wait after you applied the glue? An hour, 4 or 8? Thank you very much!
Ale Moré It depends on the glue and the open time.
I mean, when u say to wait the glue to dry is fully cured or to the touch? Thanks!
Each glue and manufacturer has on specific dry and open times that should be mentioned on the bottle. It can vary.
Thanks!
You mentioned mdf only needs 1 coat of glue, why is that?
Hello! With PVA the necessary glue line on MDF is approximately 6 mils so basically one thin coat. With porous board like particle board and plywood the board itself will absorb some of the glue in the face of the substrate so an additional coat will ride the surface better and allow for a sufficient glue line. With too much glue it does a few things. It will extend the time it needs to be in the press to assure the glue is indeed dry and set. It will create an excessive amount of squeeze out and make a mess. It is wasteful, remember you only need 6 mils of glue to create a good bond. And lastly too much PVA can have a similar effect as contact cement as it will too be overly flexible depending on the type of PVA your using.
If I were to use PVA glue to apply veneer to an MDF box where some sides of the box will have the exposed edge of the MDF, do those exposed edges need to be treated? I have heard mentioned that the edges can be "thirsty" for glue. If I do need to treat them, would a few coats of a thinned lacquer work or is that asking for trouble? Thanks for putting these videos together, very helpful!!
+Box Jockey There is no need to worry about exposed edge. We will be putting more videos together and am glad they are helpful.
Awesome, thanks a million!!
hello, is it better using wood glue with an iron better then using contact cement?
In general, wood glue and iron is the better method.
thanks
Hello can I use ironing method on old veneer ? is a chance it will crack?
I don't know. But they make something called "veneer softener" that can help avoid cracking. You might want to google that.
Enigma758 Thanks :)
Midnight Conversations I'm not sure what you mean by "old veneer". Is it unfinished veneer that's just been laying around, or is it something on an existing piece that's de-laminating and already has a finish on it? If the latter, then I don't think the veneer softener will work over an existing finish.
Enigma758 I mean very old and dry... that was lying around several years
Midnight Conversations If it is old and cracking it should not be veneered over. The new veneer needs a smooth substrate. What is the project?
Wouldnt applying pva glue cause the veneer to wrinkle? Or to roll?
You should be utilizing a press in these instances. When a press is used the veneer should not wrinkle or roll.
@@OakwoodVeneer its for a guitar...
@@edgartorres7283 What exactly are you trying to do to the guitar? Application can be very specific to each project so providing some detail would be the best way to advise you how to approach this.
I would like to glue a veneer to the face of an electric guitar. I cant take the neck off
@@edgartorres7283 This is an instance where we would not recommend using wood veneer. There are too many variables that could happen to cause bubbling and rippling along with trying to get a perfect fit around the space on the guitar and factoring in the neck you would have to maneuver around.