Thank you for the excellent video and narration. Just did this job on my son's '99 2.4 manual 2wd, very similar. The rubber was still good, but the bearing was smoked. What a difference, it drives like a new car. To everyone saying they don't own pullers, NAPA and other stores will rent you one. I removed the bearing in their parking lot. You will need a beefy impact gun.
Dude, sweet video and much appreciated. I wouldn’t downplay your camera skills, verbiage, or anything. What you’re putting out here supersedes much of the bull crap that’s out here. Keep it up.
Thank you for concisely showing me what I was getting into. I had a hard time with the 24mm bolt and pulling the bearing off with all the torn up rubber. My impact is nowhere near strong enough for that 24mm bolt. When I tried using a socket and breaker bar(with a pipe), i barely had room to turn the bolt and it would just turn the motor no matter whether the truck was in 1st or reverse. So put my jack under my breaker bar and lifted it so that there was counter clockwise pressure on the bolt. Then I shifted the truck into reverse and 4wd low with the lock out hubs disengaged(so reverse 2wd low essentially). Then I reached into the cab, pushed the clutch interlock safety switch with my finger and bumped the key. The motor started immediately with no hesitation from the starter and I shut it right off. I looked underneath and that did the trick, the bolt was about halfway backed off. I didnt feel like hacking up that rubber and didnt have a vice to hold the driveshaft. I clamped a large hose clamp tightly around the torn up rubber then ran the jaw puller with my tiny impact and it yanked the bearing right off.
Replaced the carrier bearing on my 2000 Nissan frontier 4x4 today and went to test drive it and it’s still vibrating (Did notice the new carrier bearing wasn’t very easy to spin). Got down to look at it on the test drive and noticed it was smoking and almost looks like it chewed the rubber up. Got home and parked it. Any ideas on what I need to do? I marked everything but did notice that my yolks weren’t lined up with each other. Do they need to be lined up even if they weren’t lined up before replacement?
I the process of removing this I accidentally pulled the driveshaft out of the end that doesn't have the support bearing. I don't see that you marked it prior to removing in the video. Does that need to be inserted back in a certain way?
Which end are you referring to? The one towards the transfer case or the rear axle? If you are talking about the forward end (towards the transfer case), it is a slip joint that splines into the back of the transfer case. There's no alignment issues to worry about there. Sorry for not making that more clear in the video.
any suggestions on how to get the bear out if you do not have access to a 2-job puller??? I am also going to replace the ujoints while i am replacing the support bearing..
@@AKJeeper I ended up finishing the job. It was a pain in the ass but I was able to finish installing 3 new ujoints and replaced the support bearing! Nissan Xterra 2003 3.3L. Still can't figure out why I am getting so much vibrations at 45-65mph ... it's killing me
Do you by chance live in the Anchorage area I was wondering if I can pay you to solve a similar problem on a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, I have vibration from the front somewhere in middle and I am sure its the drive shaft, Do you have a business or a Garage? and can you help me I am in my late 70s and cannot do this work myself .
I've had it for over 20 years. I believe it was made by OTC. There are other brands available at online retailers such as Amazon, and you can also rent them at places such as AutoZone or O'Reilly's.
You ever replace one where you had to pull on one side of the bearing bracket to line up the 17mm bolt hole? I just changed my center support bearing on the exact same truck, and it seems like the first drive shaft section coming out of the transmission has a slight horizontal angle in relation to the bolted down bracket. Don’t know if it’s normal or my transmission isn’t mounted properly or what.
Good video and pretty realistic in the sense of real life mechanics and what usually happens. 1 thing comes off easy and another takes pullers and improvising. Thank you for the video. From california. I just bought a 2002 and it needs the same work done but im not a mechanic and i dont think i want to mess with it, what do you think?
It would depend on how mechanically-inclined you are, and whether you have access to pullers and the other tools needed to get the job done. To me, the big item is the puller - if you don't have access to one large enough to do the job...it might be best to have a shop do the job. Another alternative, you can remove the driveshaft assembly from your truck on your own (set the parking brake and chock the wheels, please!) - and take it to a shop to have them remove/install the center support bearing. Might save you a little bit in labor costs!
I’m not sure if you’ve done a video on it already or not but forgive me if you have. I have an 01 frontier 2.4L standard transmission. My alternator belt is very loose & is causing a horrifyingly loud & piercing screech for the first 35 mins after start- doesn’t matter if I let it idle the whole time or start driving onto the highway. I FaceTimed my only family member & he told me that the belt still looks mechanically fine & doesn’t need to be replaced, but that I do need to tighten it bad. He’s not exactly mechanically inclined & I know enough from 2y in hs of auto shop 10y ago to avoid mechanics in most cases, but this has me stumped I can’t seem to find how to tighten this belt… i feel like it’s right in front of my eyes & im going to feel stupid for it, but at the same time WTF. Any advice?
I don’t see many Nissans in the shop, the ones I do get are the 3.3 V6 model, so sorry no videos on that. I can tell you it’s pretty simple to adjust the belt tension. The adjustment is done at the alternator - one of the alternator mounting bolts serves as the pivot point, the other one is connected to the adjuster bolt. You need to loosen (not remove) both bolts at the alternator, usually 1 turn loosened does the trick. From there, you can tighten down on the adjustment bolt until the belt is tightened up to satisfaction. From there, tighten up both mounting bolts at the alternator and you should be good to go. I will note, that since your belt has been slipping for some time- I would elect to replace it, as damage is surely to have been done on it, to where it will always slip even when tensioned up correctly. I hope this helps!
@@AKJeeper thank you so much! This has only started happening a few days ago, never squealed before this the 4 years I’ve owned it. I know I did replace all the belts when the serpentine belt snapped January 2021 because they were worn bad, do you think it’s detrimental if I can’t change the belt now? I just can’t afford the $50 belt right now 😕
@@tabithaizzyblood5448 You can most definitely try tightening up the adjustment on the belt without replacing it. Hopefully the problem isn’t your alternator locking up (unable to spin) causing the belt squeal. Just keep in mind that if the squealing doesn’t go away after tightening the belt (and the alternator and any other components in the loop are fine), then it’s likely you’ll need a new belt.
@@Dyloooooooooooooooon I didn’t like the fact that it was pretty hard to spin so I under buying a new center support bearing off Amazon (SKF HB1280-40 Ball Bearings/Clutch Release Unit). It was a better fit. It was still a little hard to spin but a big difference compared to the previous bearing I bought. It has held up perfectly fine so far.
It's always best practice to mark the driveshaft before taking it apart. Fast forward to 17:40 and watch until 18:37, this is where I talk about yoke alignment. Line up the yokes as shown in the video. If the yokes aren't aligned properly, the driveshaft will vibrate. If vibrations still exist after ensuring that the driveshaft yokes are properly aligned/timed, then you will need to take the shaft to a driveline specialist, who can balance the shaft and make sure the shaft is straight and true. Hope this helps!
i looked at like a 100 of these nissan driveshaft videos and the rear driveshaft seems to be alittle different in every single video to the one i have(bearing is the same tho)...also mine had no washer under the nut and i replaced the bearing and it broke very quickly...something must be realy wrong with mine :D or i got a bad part guess i have todo it again everyone has that yolk they can take off to get to the nut but i have to take the u-joint apart to get to the nut realy annoying
Interesting that your driveshaft is a bit different. The last few Frontier pickups that have come into the shop have had the same setup as the one in the video. That really stinks that you'd have to take the u-joint apart to get to the nut. I would consider getting a good used shaft from a junkyard (like the one in the video) if you can find one that would physically fit in your truck, as having to take the u-joint apart would annoy the heck out of me.
Thank you for the excellent video and narration. Just did this job on my son's '99 2.4 manual 2wd, very similar. The rubber was still good, but the bearing was smoked. What a difference, it drives like a new car. To everyone saying they don't own pullers, NAPA and other stores will rent you one. I removed the bearing in their parking lot. You will need a beefy impact gun.
This is an absolutely perfect instructional video. Exactly what I needed. Thank you, friend!
Thank you for taking the time to document this procedure. Excellent work!
2023 still usefull video.....wow at the end you soooo fast.😂
Dude, sweet video and much appreciated. I wouldn’t downplay your camera skills, verbiage, or anything. What you’re putting out here supersedes much of the bull crap that’s out here. Keep it up.
Thank you for concisely showing me what I was getting into. I had a hard time with the 24mm bolt and pulling the bearing off with all the torn up rubber. My impact is nowhere near strong enough for that 24mm bolt. When I tried using a socket and breaker bar(with a pipe), i barely had room to turn the bolt and it would just turn the motor no matter whether the truck was in 1st or reverse. So put my jack under my breaker bar and lifted it so that there was counter clockwise pressure on the bolt. Then I shifted the truck into reverse and 4wd low with the lock out hubs disengaged(so reverse 2wd low essentially). Then I reached into the cab, pushed the clutch interlock safety switch with my finger and bumped the key. The motor started immediately with no hesitation from the starter and I shut it right off. I looked underneath and that did the trick, the bolt was about halfway backed off.
I didnt feel like hacking up that rubber and didnt have a vice to hold the driveshaft. I clamped a large hose clamp tightly around the torn up rubber then ran the jaw puller with my tiny impact and it yanked the bearing right off.
a true pioneer, thanks for sharing
@@rockyloccgarage2040 I had to get to work the next day. It was a long day and night lol
Was going to do this myself but after watching you with your 2 pulleys I probably take this one to a mechanic. Mine quoted $270, so not terrible.
Lock nut for the yoke has a torque spec per Nissan FSM of 181-216 ft-lb.
Also, FSM calls for this nut to be replaced each time.
Great Video.
Really well explained
Gracias mi brother desde mexico🖒
thank you
This what I'm gonna do but if I took the shaft off.. I better do the U joint too, yes, may be... 🌝... thanks Sir for instruction... 👍👍
Any idea if that same type of bearing would fit a 2001 Frontier SE 3.3L RWD???
Replaced the carrier bearing on my 2000 Nissan frontier 4x4 today and went to test drive it and it’s still vibrating (Did notice the new carrier bearing wasn’t very easy to spin). Got down to look at it on the test drive and noticed it was smoking and almost looks like it chewed the rubber up. Got home and parked it. Any ideas on what I need to do? I marked everything but did notice that my yolks weren’t lined up with each other. Do they need to be lined up even if they weren’t lined up before replacement?
Probably you tighten the rubber bushing too much or you put the piece backwards.
The carrier mount bolts tighten to 68 to 87 Nm or 50 to 64 foot pounds. The specs ar in the service Manuel.
I the process of removing this I accidentally pulled the driveshaft out of the end that doesn't have the support bearing. I don't see that you marked it prior to removing in the video. Does that need to be inserted back in a certain way?
Which end are you referring to? The one towards the transfer case or the rear axle? If you are talking about the forward end (towards the transfer case), it is a slip joint that splines into the back of the transfer case. There's no alignment issues to worry about there. Sorry for not making that more clear in the video.
any suggestions on how to get the bear out if you do not have access to a 2-job puller??? I am also going to replace the ujoints while i am replacing the support bearing..
Take it to a shop that has one, I can’t imagine they would charge much if you brought them the driveshaft
@@AKJeeper I ended up finishing the job. It was a pain in the ass but I was able to finish installing 3 new ujoints and replaced the support bearing! Nissan Xterra 2003 3.3L. Still can't figure out why I am getting so much vibrations at 45-65mph ... it's killing me
Do you by chance live in the Anchorage area I was wondering if I can pay you to solve a similar problem on a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, I have vibration from the front somewhere in middle and I am sure its the drive shaft, Do you have a business or a Garage? and can you help me I am in my late 70s and cannot do this work myself .
Where did you buy that extracor tool you used for he yolk
I've had it for over 20 years. I believe it was made by OTC. There are other brands available at online retailers such as Amazon, and you can also rent them at places such as AutoZone or O'Reilly's.
You ever replace one where you had to pull on one side of the bearing bracket to line up the 17mm bolt hole? I just changed my center support bearing on the exact same truck, and it seems like the first drive shaft section coming out of the transmission has a slight horizontal angle in relation to the bolted down bracket. Don’t know if it’s normal or my transmission isn’t mounted properly or what.
I can’t say I’ve come across that on these trucks. I’m wondering if maybe your truck has a bad transmission or engine mount.
@@AKJeeper wow you replied so fast! I’ll check those out. Thanks
is there suppose to be a little play or should be firmly snug tight that when you wiggle theres no play
A little play is ok
If i want to just replace the 3 U-joints, would I be able to leave the support bearing on or would i have to take it off too?
U-joint replacement can be done without removing the support bearing from the driveshaft, yes.
Thank you. I also had one more question. My 99 Frontier has the center support bearing facing towards the rear. Do you think it got installed wrong?
Good video and pretty realistic in the sense of real life mechanics and what usually happens. 1 thing comes off easy and another takes pullers and improvising. Thank you for the video. From california.
I just bought a 2002 and it needs the same work done but im not a mechanic and i dont think i want to mess with it, what do you think?
It would depend on how mechanically-inclined you are, and whether you have access to pullers and the other tools needed to get the job done. To me, the big item is the puller - if you don't have access to one large enough to do the job...it might be best to have a shop do the job. Another alternative, you can remove the driveshaft assembly from your truck on your own (set the parking brake and chock the wheels, please!) - and take it to a shop to have them remove/install the center support bearing. Might save you a little bit in labor costs!
@@AKJeeper Thank you for getting back to me. I will look into a puller and a vise possibly.
I’m not sure if you’ve done a video on it already or not but forgive me if you have. I have an 01 frontier 2.4L standard transmission. My alternator belt is very loose & is causing a horrifyingly loud & piercing screech for the first 35 mins after start- doesn’t matter if I let it idle the whole time or start driving onto the highway. I FaceTimed my only family member & he told me that the belt still looks mechanically fine & doesn’t need to be replaced, but that I do need to tighten it bad. He’s not exactly mechanically inclined & I know enough from 2y in hs of auto shop 10y ago to avoid mechanics in most cases, but this has me stumped I can’t seem to find how to tighten this belt… i feel like it’s right in front of my eyes & im going to feel stupid for it, but at the same time WTF.
Any advice?
I don’t see many Nissans in the shop, the ones I do get are the 3.3 V6 model, so sorry no videos on that. I can tell you it’s pretty simple to adjust the belt tension. The adjustment is done at the alternator - one of the alternator mounting bolts serves as the pivot point, the other one is connected to the adjuster bolt. You need to loosen (not remove) both bolts at the alternator, usually 1 turn loosened does the trick. From there, you can tighten down on the adjustment bolt until the belt is tightened up to satisfaction. From there, tighten up both mounting bolts at the alternator and you should be good to go. I will note, that since your belt has been slipping for some time- I would elect to replace it, as damage is surely to have been done on it, to where it will always slip even when tensioned up correctly. I hope this helps!
@@AKJeeper thank you so much! This has only started happening a few days ago, never squealed before this the 4 years I’ve owned it. I know I did replace all the belts when the serpentine belt snapped January 2021 because they were worn bad, do you think it’s detrimental if I can’t change the belt now? I just can’t afford the $50 belt right now 😕
@@tabithaizzyblood5448 You can most definitely try tightening up the adjustment on the belt without replacing it. Hopefully the problem isn’t your alternator locking up (unable to spin) causing the belt squeal. Just keep in mind that if the squealing doesn’t go away after tightening the belt (and the alternator and any other components in the loop are fine), then it’s likely you’ll need a new belt.
I just recently installed this bearing and it was pretty hard to spin the driveshaft. It this supposed to be a snug fit or not?
Did mine today and it was also tough to spin. It spins but requires effort. How is yours now ?
@@Dyloooooooooooooooon I didn’t like the fact that it was pretty hard to spin so I under buying a new center support bearing off Amazon (SKF HB1280-40 Ball Bearings/Clutch Release Unit). It was a better fit. It was still a little hard to spin but a big difference compared to the previous bearing I bought. It has held up perfectly fine so far.
Question what if u did all that without marking then started getting vibrations how do u fix it
It's always best practice to mark the driveshaft before taking it apart. Fast forward to 17:40 and watch until 18:37, this is where I talk about yoke alignment. Line up the yokes as shown in the video. If the yokes aren't aligned properly, the driveshaft will vibrate. If vibrations still exist after ensuring that the driveshaft yokes are properly aligned/timed, then you will need to take the shaft to a driveline specialist, who can balance the shaft and make sure the shaft is straight and true. Hope this helps!
@@AKJeeper hey thank pulled her down n dial it in smooth sailing now no vibrations thanks 👍🏾
@@MADFRASS1000 nice! Was it a matter of the yokes not being aligned properly?
@@AKJeeper indeed it was an bushing wasn’t properly seated in the bracket
i looked at like a 100 of these nissan driveshaft videos and the rear driveshaft seems to be alittle different in every single video to the one i have(bearing is the same tho)...also mine had no washer under the nut and i replaced the bearing and it broke very quickly...something must be realy wrong with mine :D or i got a bad part guess i have todo it again
everyone has that yolk they can take off to get to the nut but i have to take the u-joint apart to get to the nut realy annoying
Interesting that your driveshaft is a bit different. The last few Frontier pickups that have come into the shop have had the same setup as the one in the video. That really stinks that you'd have to take the u-joint apart to get to the nut. I would consider getting a good used shaft from a junkyard (like the one in the video) if you can find one that would physically fit in your truck, as having to take the u-joint apart would annoy the heck out of me.
@@AKJeeper i looked at videos/pictures from other trucks do dident find any that have the same one.. Maybe someone has already swapped it
I only wish the underside of my Nissan had that amount of rust.
This is what we call “rust-free” in Northern/rust belt states. I dream about someday moving down south where rust isn’t a thing.
It's much easier to do this on an 02 frontier