Great idea to log the history of your designs, and how you found the perfect angle and handle size/ shape. Not to forget the sheath, it can be as important a consideration as the blade material and size. Interested to see the ‘hidden feature’ of the latest development. Keep the posts coming. Cheers.
Really great informative video Rob, and good to hear your thinking on the evolution of your original bush tool. A good resource to have this information, alongside Mors Kochanski's thoughts on knives in general, and the Skookum Bush Tool. Small evolutions can make a significant differance in how a tool can make tasks more enjoyable, and comfortable to use over many hours in the hand. Like Russ's attention to detail, Im quite partial to nickel loveless bolts, a little nicer tone of colour, with good corrosion resistance. Thanks for the superb knives you have produced for myself Rob, they are absolute masterpieces both aesthetically, and as working tools. Look forward to part 2.
Outstanding Evolution there. Good to see some of your inspiring knife designs from other makers and how you evolved through usage to modify to your current design. 😂
👍 Great stuff Rob , nice to see the evolution. I await part 2 😊. Your grinds appear to be getting closer to a scandi with a convex edge, which definitely works for me here 🇿🇦 👍👌😊.
I'm loving this series of your knife designs and how you have made variations of the skookum. I tried to get a Rob Garcia Skookum but there was a 6 year wait list. I love the Bushtool S that you made for me. I also have a custom made mini skookum by an American Bladesmith. I would love to see you make your variation of a Woodlore. Keep up the good work. Your knives are the best!
Interesting to see all those knives lined up together like that. You can really see the differences. Also how the ricassos have changed a bit over the years. Woodlores have a socking great lump (for gloves in the winter I've heard). But that leaves a big portion you can't use close to the blade. Interesting to see how the grinds have changed as well., I can only think for the better. I prefer a shallower grind myself, and no, no, no, microbevel thanks. Are you set on your design now do you think, or are you likely to keep tweaking? Is a design ever "just right"? Glad to see you're off the pies mate. All the best.
Really enjoyed that buddy looking forward to part 2 . And ow ye lol reading the coments what simon has put twiggy you have lost a bit of timber haven't you i could do with shedding a few pounds as well , well done buddy 👍
Hay, that's right, good that buddy well done, you impressed ay before we no it you will be getting on the new series of that program what used to be on tv with Pamela Anderson BAYWATCH 😀. Or nice one glad you'll be at the bushcraft show this year looking forward to having a catch up need to look at getting my ticket
How do you get your knives to "snap" into the leather sheaths. Also, it would have been interesting to hear the different dimensions of your knife evolution, to better understand how they have changed over time. Thanks.
Regarding what you said about Ben's blade thickness... I did often wonder what made you choose blade thickness especially in correlation to metal type. I have a 3.5" handmade knife of unknown metal. It's high carbon (rusts easily) and I know it cost a small fortune (got it as a gift and it was bought in Arizona from a maker who didn't care to put his name on it) and it really is an amazing knife but the thickness (never measure it but it looks like at least 4mm (is simply too much.
I've tried all sorts of knives and grinds and 3-3.5mm works for me on a Sub 10cm (4") blade, if a blade is longer than that I think it looses it's ease of control for carving and fine tasks, it's time to step up to 4-5mm thick and a flat, sabre or convex grind.
@@RobEvansWoodsman Yeah I meant in the present. Certainly questionable if it's good because they do snap but it's hard not to like it for... primordial reasons.
Imo theyre pretty limited yeah cut and carve wood good but for general work ive not been too impressed with the socalled scandi grinds so i most always carry several diffrent blade styles when affield and depending why i might be out often dedicated specialised blades such as eg. Fillet knives for fish as well presision cutting on biggame animals ,dedicated hunting knives for skinning ,boneing etc small clip blades for small game and fowl and i dont particularly like that a so called dedicated bush knife is nearly guardless if i was only using one blade not likely lol it sure wouldnt be guardless too many potentially dangerous senarios we might face in the west to mess with that type imo now sitting around in a camp or some thing whittleing or what not perfectly fine other wise just leary of them try to cut a panicked cinch strap on a panicked horse standing on a mountain side and tell me a guardless blade is where its at lolol .just my two pennies from a life of hunting trapping and fishing
Outstanding video series
Bushcraft Darwin evolution
Look forward to the cream of the crop
Cheers 🍻
Great idea to log the history of your designs, and how you found the perfect angle and handle size/ shape. Not to forget the sheath, it can be as important a consideration as the blade material and size. Interested to see the ‘hidden feature’ of the latest development. Keep the posts coming. Cheers.
Really great informative video Rob, and good to hear your thinking on the evolution of your original bush tool. A good resource to have this information, alongside Mors Kochanski's thoughts on knives in general, and the Skookum Bush Tool. Small evolutions can make a significant differance in how a tool can make tasks more enjoyable, and comfortable to use over many hours in the hand. Like Russ's attention to detail, Im quite partial to nickel loveless bolts, a little nicer tone of colour, with good corrosion resistance. Thanks for the superb knives you have produced for myself Rob, they are absolute masterpieces both aesthetically, and as working tools. Look forward to part 2.
Outstanding Evolution there. Good to see some of your inspiring knife designs from other makers and how you evolved through usage to modify to your current design. 😂
Hi Rob, this video series is a really great idea. I'm looking forward to the videos.
Greetings
Felix
Cool to see your journey through knifemaking and where it leads to ,stunning knives for sure,love the custom style very much
Good stuff, brother! 👍💪👊
👍 Great stuff Rob , nice to see the evolution. I await part 2 😊.
Your grinds appear to be getting closer to a scandi with a convex edge, which definitely works for me here 🇿🇦 👍👌😊.
Easy enough to do that grind,
Really informative . Thank you and happy new year Rob .
Quite the evolution in designs. Your latest variation looks very interesting. Looking forward to seeing it in action. Thanks for sharing Rob
Amazing
I'm loving this series of your knife designs and how you have made variations of the skookum. I tried to get a Rob Garcia Skookum but there was a 6 year wait list. I love the Bushtool S that you made for me. I also have a custom made mini skookum by an American Bladesmith. I would love to see you make your variation of a Woodlore. Keep up the good work. Your knives are the best!
Thanks Larry
I have one of your Bushtool S 's It's strong well designed and performs every task I ask of it and it's in my favorite color orange with tan liners
Interesting to see all those knives lined up together like that. You can really see the differences. Also how the ricassos have changed a bit over the years. Woodlores have a socking great lump (for gloves in the winter I've heard). But that leaves a big portion you can't use close to the blade.
Interesting to see how the grinds have changed as well., I can only think for the better. I prefer a shallower grind myself, and no, no, no, microbevel thanks.
Are you set on your design now do you think, or are you likely to keep tweaking? Is a design ever "just right"?
Glad to see you're off the pies mate. All the best.
I'm pretty set on these designs now, I might come up with something else and the pies are well and truly gone now.
Really enjoyed that buddy looking forward to part 2 . And ow ye lol reading the coments what simon has put twiggy you have lost a bit of timber haven't you i could do with shedding a few pounds as well , well done buddy 👍
16kg mate, 10kg to go!
You'll see a far different Rob at the bushcraft show this year.
Hay, that's right, good that buddy well done, you impressed ay before we no it you will be getting on the new series of that program what used to be on tv with Pamela Anderson BAYWATCH 😀. Or nice one glad you'll be at the bushcraft show this year looking forward to having a catch up need to look at getting my ticket
@darrengreaves3068 I don't know if Marcus has sorted our stall yet.
Hasn't he is there a dead line or anything that you have to get your names down for it
@@darrengreaves3068 name is down, it's the organiser that's slow
How do you get your knives to "snap" into the leather sheaths.
Also, it would have been interesting to hear the different dimensions of your knife evolution, to better understand how they have changed over time. Thanks.
I form the sheath around the actual knife with either dip dye or wet forming
Regarding what you said about Ben's blade thickness... I did often wonder what made you choose blade thickness especially in correlation to metal type.
I have a 3.5" handmade knife of unknown metal. It's high carbon (rusts easily) and I know it cost a small fortune (got it as a gift and it was bought in Arizona from a maker who didn't care to put his name on it) and it really is an amazing knife but the thickness (never measure it but it looks like at least 4mm (is simply too much.
I've tried all sorts of knives and grinds and 3-3.5mm works for me on a Sub 10cm (4") blade, if a blade is longer than that I think it looses it's ease of control for carving and fine tasks, it's time to step up to 4-5mm thick and a flat, sabre or convex grind.
Are you going to start making the woodlore clones again Rob ?
Probably not Chris
Have you ever made a stag handle?
There's one in this video, sambar stag scales, we can't get really nice dense stag scales these days but I have some for private use!
@@RobEvansWoodsman Yeah I meant in the present. Certainly questionable if it's good because they do snap but it's hard not to like it for... primordial reasons.
@BravingTheOutDoors if it's good antler with hardly any pith it won't snap but that stuff is now as rare as rocking horse S**t
How is the metal butt attached so that it is securely held?
pretty sure theyre welded on
Welded
@ Thanks
Imo theyre pretty limited yeah cut and carve wood good but for general work ive not been too impressed with the socalled scandi grinds so i most always carry several diffrent blade styles when affield and depending why i might be out often dedicated specialised blades such as eg. Fillet knives for fish as well presision cutting on biggame animals ,dedicated hunting knives for skinning ,boneing etc small clip blades for small game and fowl and i dont particularly like that a so called dedicated bush knife is nearly guardless if i was only using one blade not likely lol it sure wouldnt be guardless too many potentially dangerous senarios we might face in the west to mess with that type imo now sitting around in a camp or some thing whittleing or what not perfectly fine other wise just leary of them try to cut a panicked cinch strap on a panicked horse standing on a mountain side and tell me a guardless blade is where its at lolol .just my two pennies from a life of hunting trapping and fishing
@@richardnichols1392 Scandis are limited in their applications that's why I always have a flat grind folder on me.
hello Twiggy
Refering to my weight loss?